Thank you for the good video. Did both on a 08. 2 hours for the first. Needed a 1/2 21mm deep socket, so that was an hour to home Depot. Other side 1 hour. Turn the wheel to the side opposite of what you're working on and you don't need to take out the rack and pinion the single bolt will clear. Thank you very much for the torque specs.
Thanks for mentioning the rack and pinion nuts are welded in place, which require the strength of Hulk to remove, also the PS one is basically impossible to remove from the top (because the lower nut is welded).
To avoid those nuts you can turn your steering wheel all the way to the right (outside). That way you should be able to get the nut that is hiding behind the steering rack.
1:27 / 10:18 Point in the video where the 18mm fasteners that bolt the steering rack to the frame. On my 2012 Mustang the nuts are welded to the frame. I replaced my lower control arms using jack stands in my driveway. I tried to break the bolts loose with my impact without luck. I used my breaker bar and my floor jack handle for leverage and was able to break the nut free only to discover the nut was tack welded on at the factory. There is room to get a rachet in from the top side and remove the 18mm bolt. FYI
Completely enough room even if a quarter turn at a time 😭😭😭 the bigger bolt on the passenger side had thread locker up all the threads and even the shank for me. A whole hour of cranking the ratchet. Rides nice tho !
On my 2008, the steering rack nuts are welded to frame. On reassembly Chilton's says the back 2 flag bolts can be put down from the top, (reverse of original). Chilton's also has much higher torque specs.
To avoid those nuts you can turn your steering wheel all the way to the right (outside). That way you should be able to get the nut that is hiding behind the steering rack.
On my 2005 Mustang, the two nuts on the rear mount were on the top, not the bottom. What a bitch to get them off. I guess it was easier for the factory to poke the bolt with the tab up from below and drop the nuts on from the top, especially when it is just a chassis. Once the body is on there is not much clearance to get a socket and ratchet on the nut. They went back in the way you showed them. So easy.
It is a help,but when we go to the 2o14 it is very different because of the rack and pinnion that it's completely electric and have others components diferent than the one you work out.
Anyone with 2010+ Electronic Steering rack has a third bolt on passenger side. Feel around you’ll find it. Nuts are welded to frame so go from the top 18mm. ALSO you’re gonna have to separate the steering shaft from the coupler right under the driver side motor mount. It’s a 13mm bolt turn the steering wheel to get a good shot at it make sure to keep track maybe even mark both sides so you dont lose position. Once you get it all unbolted wiggle rack forward until you get the space you need to pull out Control arm bolt. You cant just push up because the mounting holes locate into pockets on the frame that have tops and bottoms.
Im trying,I should have read the comments first,I have a Mustang 2012 and I had a hard time removing that first nut and it was welded😢,cheers to my hIgh impact wrench for not giving up,and for nothing because still I can't move that steering rack out of the way,...
everything else came undone for me just fine, but no matter what i did i could not get the front pivot bolt loose. cheater bar, impact wrench, nothing did it. anyone else run into that?
PSA To Anyone Doing this if you intend to do the steering rack adjustment method Pls pls, INSPECT THE BOLTS odly enough my 05 GT had the lower bolts that he impacts welded I have to remove them from the top. 😂 TOOK ME ABOUT AN HOUR TO FIGURE IT OUT FLASHLIGHTS ARE VALUABLE 😅
‘@ (5:25 in the video)- “ Capture bolt” When re-installing the new control arm I think I seen him accidentally snug the second one with the gun without the capture bolt flange seating correctly in that u shaped grove on the frame….There is an example of what I’m trying to describe @ 2:13 into the video. Either way I’m not leaving a negative review I’d like the video straight to the point. Awesome job BUT damnit man, NOW I gotta buy a lift….
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
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Pultu
Thank you for the good video. Did both on a 08. 2 hours for the first. Needed a 1/2 21mm deep socket, so that was an hour to home Depot. Other side 1 hour. Turn the wheel to the side opposite of what you're working on and you don't need to take out the rack and pinion the single bolt will clear. Thank you very much for the torque specs.
Took me 4 hours in a shop with a lift on my 2012 mustang dude makes it look like a cake job in this video
This couldn't be more timely!! 2008 Ford Mustang in need of the exact same repair/replacement!!! Thanks for the video!!!
+Daniel Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
@@TRQ minimizing jjjj
Thanks for giving all the proper torque specs other than just "it's tight enough" very informative 👍
No nonsense and right to the point, I like it. Good video bro!
Great video! Would strongly suggest renting a tool from an auto store to pop the ball joint.
6:50 is my favorite part of this video
Thanks for mentioning the rack and pinion nuts are welded in place, which require the strength of Hulk to remove, also the PS one is basically impossible to remove from the top (because the lower nut is welded).
Try to just replace the ball joint
Tim I wish I had read your comment yesterday. Geez!
To avoid those nuts you can turn your steering wheel all the way to the right (outside). That way you should be able to get the nut that is hiding behind the steering rack.
I was just looking through the comments about this I have a 2014 and of course the nuts that are easiest to get to are welded on
1:27 / 10:18 Point in the video where the 18mm fasteners that bolt the steering rack to the frame. On my 2012 Mustang the nuts are welded to the frame. I replaced my lower control arms using jack stands in my driveway. I tried to break the bolts loose with my impact without luck. I used my breaker bar and my floor jack handle for leverage and was able to break the nut free only to discover the nut was tack welded on at the factory. There is room to get a rachet in from the top side and remove the 18mm bolt. FYI
This video needs to be updated for 11-14 S197s.
Completely enough room even if a quarter turn at a time 😭😭😭 the bigger bolt on the passenger side had thread locker up all the threads and even the shank for me. A whole hour of cranking the ratchet. Rides nice tho !
An alignment is required after this correct?
Bro you made this look so easy lmao
Be nice if the ball joint had 3 rivets i could grind off & just replace that...congrats engineering youve made millions selling parts!
On the 2008 mustang the control bolts toward back are on backwards can you switch it upside down to be able to properly torque them??
This video saved my life
On my 2008, the steering rack nuts are welded to frame. On reassembly Chilton's says the back 2 flag bolts can be put down from the top, (reverse of original). Chilton's also has much higher torque specs.
To avoid those nuts you can turn your steering wheel all the way to the right (outside). That way you should be able to get the nut that is hiding behind the steering rack.
Hey i just did this a couple days ago and im noticing some creaking noise, im not sure what could be the issue any advice?
On my 2005 Mustang, the two nuts on the rear mount were on the top, not the bottom. What a bitch to get them off. I guess it was easier for the factory to poke the bolt with the tab up from below and drop the nuts on from the top, especially when it is just a chassis. Once the body is on there is not much clearance to get a socket and ratchet on the nut. They went back in the way you showed them. So easy.
+loco4x4 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
the hanes manual mentions that, too. way easier!
I had the same issue with my 2012 V6 Mustang. I also put them back with the nuts on the bottom.
It is a help,but when we go to the 2o14 it is very different because of the rack and pinnion that it's completely electric and have others components diferent than the one you work out.
Anyone with 2010+ Electronic Steering rack has a third bolt on passenger side. Feel around you’ll find it. Nuts are welded to frame so go from the top 18mm. ALSO you’re gonna have to separate the steering shaft from the coupler right under the driver side motor mount. It’s a 13mm bolt turn the steering wheel to get a good shot at it make sure to keep track maybe even mark both sides so you dont lose position. Once you get it all unbolted wiggle rack forward until you get the space you need to pull out Control arm bolt. You cant just push up because the mounting holes locate into pockets on the frame that have tops and bottoms.
There should be enough room to move it forward without having to pull out the kmember. I sorta just let it rest on it actually.
Im trying,I should have read the comments first,I have a Mustang 2012 and I had a hard time removing that first nut and it was welded😢,cheers to my hIgh impact wrench for not giving up,and for nothing because still I can't move that steering rack out of the way,...
I did this today. Except my 2008 had the center bolts in the reverse position. Was very difficult to torque
everything else came undone for me just fine, but no matter what i did i could not get the front pivot bolt loose. cheater bar, impact wrench, nothing did it. anyone else run into that?
I guess some of the bolts should be tightened with the tire on the ground
One major issue, the subframe bolts are upside down.
For some reason the power steering rack bolts are welded to the subframe in my car.
What year mustang are you working on in this video?
It’s an 05 to 09 but if I had to guess an 05 or 06
You could also turn your wheel all the way to the right to get the bolt out instead of removing the whole thing
+Mike Escobar Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Mike, you mean it is not required to remove or loose the steering gear, right?
@@soygoyano Correct! Turn it all the whole to the right.
Can u put a time on which bolt
Super clutch call im about to do this thank you
PSA To Anyone Doing this if you intend to do the steering rack adjustment method Pls pls, INSPECT THE BOLTS odly enough my 05 GT had the lower bolts that he impacts welded I have to remove them from the top. 😂 TOOK ME ABOUT AN HOUR TO FIGURE IT OUT FLASHLIGHTS ARE VALUABLE 😅
Save this for later
Thanks for the heads up on the welded on nuts from the steering rack to the frame assholes
‘@ (5:25 in the video)- “ Capture bolt” When re-installing the new control arm I think I seen him accidentally snug the second one with the gun without the capture bolt flange seating correctly in that u shaped grove on the frame….There is an example of what I’m trying to describe @ 2:13 into the video. Either way I’m not leaving a negative review I’d like the video straight to the point. Awesome job BUT damnit man, NOW I gotta buy a lift….
its not that fucking easy.
Torqued 😉😉
All Ford had to do is reverse that control arm bolt and avoid messing with steering rack all together!
Thank you for the video it helped me replace my 2010 control arm 🙂👍
Copper never seize? Cool.
it,s not a race, slow down and do it right.