What a great series and excellent information. I have a 50hp Yamaha nearly identical to this and these videos will be a huge help when I'm ready to clean my carbs. Thank you!
Uge help thank you 🙏. Very articulate with great illustration. I used the series of vids to clean my 2003 Yamaha F60TLRB carbs, test the cold start system, set the floats to 10mm, reassemble, reinstall, then sync with vacuum gauges. Now my outboard runs perfect! The symptoms that it had was a stumble due to fuel delivery between 3800-4500 RPM, and WOT was compromised at only 31-mph. Now the stumble is completely gone and the top speed is 34-mph. Findings: Someone had rebuilt the carbs in the past and the float bowls were all at different settings. Also there was a very slight fuel leak at the t-fitting under carb #4 resulting in an air leak only, no fuel was dripping. Set the floats to 10-mm and fixed the air leak. 🥇
This has been a great step by step series. I am waiting for the temps to drop just a little here in Arizona and I will be doing the same thing on my F50.
Awesome video and exactly what I am working on except mine is the F60TLRC. I disassembled the accelerator pump and the plunger was severely damaged. Can I replace just the rubber or do I need to order the whole assembly (69W-14369-00-00)? Also, can you explain if this is the cause of incredibly long cold starts. Is the motor usable with this damage? It runs at idle but haven't put in the water to rev up yet.
On my F60 Yamaha the T fuel fitting at the bottom of the carb assembly is cracked, so I'm just curious if I need to remove the entire carb assembly to get at it like in the 1st video or is there an easier way? Thanks for the video!
Hello friend. Congratulations for your videos and the quality of your work. I hope you can help me. I have a friend's F50A that I can't fix. It has some misfire issues at idle and it revs up on its own and then drops back down in RPM. Can you guide me?
@@jdorney70 hi, friend. Unfortunately the bug persists. We are using another engine waiting to resume the repair now when the summer is over. If I can fix it I will post the solution here
@@chewaky Good morning. When I took the carbs off yesterday, I noticed the #4 O ring didn't have a good seal. Possible that could be causing the high idle. If I find anything wrong in the carbs I'll let you know. Thank you!
I just did this to my F100’s. Can I ask why the bottom carb had the idle pilot screw set differently, than the top 3? My manual called for 1.5 to 2.5 out. I set all of mine to 2.5 out, to run on the richer side, but noticed I had very subtle backfire at 2600-2800 rpm upon acceleration on initial trial run. I let it idle and trolled at lower speeds most of the day and then finally ran it to 5000 rpm towards the end of the day and could not hear the subtle backfire anymore.
Definitely one of the better videos on RUclips on how to maintain earlier model Yamaha carbureted 4 strokes. Great motors, just a bit temperamental if not properly maintained. Subscribed to the channel and two thumbs up from San Diego!
![Yamaha 4 Stroke Outboard Engine Carb Rebuild Series [3] Component Testing and Repair](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cXmVuTWqKdA/mqdefault.jpg)
Best video for F50 maintenance ever!
Thank you.
What a great series and excellent information. I have a 50hp Yamaha nearly identical to this and these videos will be a huge help when I'm ready to clean my carbs. Thank you!
Uge help thank you 🙏. Very articulate with great illustration. I used the series of vids to clean my 2003 Yamaha F60TLRB carbs, test the cold start system, set the floats to 10mm, reassemble, reinstall, then sync with vacuum gauges. Now my outboard runs perfect! The symptoms that it had was a stumble due to fuel delivery between 3800-4500 RPM, and WOT was compromised at only 31-mph. Now the stumble is completely gone and the top speed is 34-mph. Findings: Someone had rebuilt the carbs in the past and the float bowls were all at different settings. Also there was a very slight fuel leak at the t-fitting under carb #4 resulting in an air leak only, no fuel was dripping. Set the floats to 10-mm and fixed the air leak. 🥇
Very good video , you cover all details excellent million likes for you
Thank you.
This has been a great step by step series. I am waiting for the temps to drop just a little here in Arizona and I will be doing the same thing on my F50.
Good luck!
Great job, J. Stellar attention to details, as usual.
Thanks much, Mr blades.
I really appreciate this series!! Thanks buddy...
You're welcome.
I watch all 5 videos great job Thank you.
Glad you like them!
These are some really well done videos!
Thank you very much!
Thank you for this, my accelerator pump was way out of adjustment.
You're welcome.
Great vid, man! Greetings from Sweden
Hey, thanks!
Thank you for sharing your videos!!
Glad they we’re helpful
working with carbs were such a pain in the ass. great video though!
Thanks!
Nice job. Thank you for posting
No problem!
Great videos and very well done
Thank you.
Very well put together thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Great job
Thanks
I enjoyed this video
Glad to hear it.
Awesome video and exactly what I am working on except mine is the F60TLRC. I disassembled the accelerator pump and the plunger was severely damaged. Can I replace just the rubber or do I need to order the whole assembly (69W-14369-00-00)? Also, can you explain if this is the cause of incredibly long cold starts. Is the motor usable with this damage? It runs at idle but haven't put in the water to rev up yet.
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤
What would be the average price to have a shop rebuild the carburetors and sync them? I have a 03 f60
Not sure, id imagine 800+ or so at this point.
On my F60 Yamaha the T fuel fitting at the bottom of the carb assembly is cracked, so I'm just curious if I need to remove the entire carb assembly to get at it like in the 1st video or is there an easier way?
Thanks for the video!
Its always a good idea unless you are confident of a clean repair with it mounted.
Hello friend. Congratulations for your videos and the quality of your work. I hope you can help me. I have a friend's F50A that I can't fix. It has some misfire issues at idle and it revs up on its own and then drops back down in RPM. Can you guide me?
I'm having the same issue with my F50. Just took the carbs off and starting the rebuild today. Did you figure out the problem by chance?
@@jdorney70 hi, friend. Unfortunately the bug persists. We are using another engine waiting to resume the repair now when the summer is over. If I can fix it I will post the solution here
@@chewaky Good morning. When I took the carbs off yesterday, I noticed the #4 O ring didn't have a good seal. Possible that could be causing the high idle. If I find anything wrong in the carbs I'll let you know. Thank you!
I just did this to my F100’s. Can I ask why the bottom carb had the idle pilot screw set differently, than the top 3? My manual called for 1.5 to 2.5 out. I set all of mine to 2.5 out, to run on the richer side, but noticed I had very subtle backfire at 2600-2800 rpm upon acceleration on initial trial run. I let it idle and trolled at lower speeds most of the day and then finally ran it to 5000 rpm towards the end of the day and could not hear the subtle backfire anymore.
Definitely one of the better videos on RUclips on how to maintain earlier model Yamaha carbureted 4 strokes. Great motors, just a bit temperamental if not properly maintained. Subscribed to the channel and two thumbs up from San Diego!
You can show balance carb clear
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
Am impress for ur teaching now show us how to dismantle the engine and rebuild