Yamaha 4 Stroke Outboard Engine Carb Rebuild Series [5] Installation, Setup and Testing

Now in the final chapter of the series with the carbs fully assembled onto the silencer, a few hoses have arrived which will go to the fuel pump that will be replaced before we continue. The old ones are original and brittle. After this the pilot screws will be set to their factory specified position as they are currently fully closed.
Over at the engine I want to ensure that the throttle linkage is set correctly so I set my calipers to measure the linkage size and it turns out to be correct so its cleaned and reinstalled into position. With that the fuel filter is removed and brought over to the bench for cleaning and inspection. The filter itself was found to be in good condition so it was cleaned and reassembled and brought back over to the boat after drying.
The paper towels were removed from the intake from part 1, it was really dirty on the mating surface and took a significant amount of time to get everything clean. Everything was then checked and cleaned to ensure the carb would be installed without issue. The carb mounting screws were also cleaned up. The dip stick and breather hose removed allowed for clearance.
The whole assembly slides back on without issue guiding the top fuel hose as necessary, using the alignment pins as a guide, one bolt is used to hold everything together. All other bolts are then hand turned in slack only. Finally tightening from the middle outward. Followed by the two bolts securing the air silencer. The oil dipstick is immediately reinstalled and the throttle linkage snapped back onto the carb.
The fuel filter assembly is re-mounted onto the engine. All fuel hoses are reconnected as they were removed. Then the breather hose is reinstalled to the silencer box. All of the connections to the cold start valved are reconnected and dressed in properly.
After reviewing all of the work I test my carb balancers and I see there will be an issue working with more than two carbs at a time but ill still try in the video. first we test the full throttle stop with a feeler gauge and its good so we can get started. A tachometer is already on the boat so we do need to add one. Letting the unset engine warm up and trying to keep the idle at 1000rpm why checking for leaks is the first task. Its apparent that balancing all fours carbs at once will not work on my setup so I do two at a time.
Once balance is completed. The setting for accelerator pump engagement is setup. Finally I need to setup the idle screws in the final setup to remove a slight stumble on cylinder one and test everything out. Completing the task and the project.
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