How To Apply Water Based Polyurethane | (3 EASY STEPS)
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2024
- Water based polyurethane is a great finish as it dries quickly and creates a very clear surface. Three to seven layers is more then enough to suffice for a durable surface on an end table, dining room table or high top table. Covered in this video is basic steps on how to apply water based polyurethane. I hope you enjoy the video! Thanks for watching!
STEPS:
1) Prepare the surface
- Lightly sand surface
-Vacuum/air blow off dust
- Wipe surface with mineral spirits
2) Apply Polyurethane
- Stir poly
- Use a clean brush
- Apply generously but create smooth lines
3) Sit back and allow to dry
- Dry time is dependent on cloudiness of surface
- Cloudy = More dry time
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- GGWW
Thank you for detailed tutorial!
Nice! I'm refinishing a burch door, and I like the plastic look. Thx!
Thank You!!! Great video
Super helpful!
Just a tip for extending the life of your sandpaper. If you fold it the way you do, you have a sandpaper surface grinding on another sandpaper surface. You can hear it every time you change directions. I’ve found that by the time I’ve worn out both sides and re-fold it to use the inner surfaces, those surfaces are even duller than the used surfaces. Try cutting smaller pieces and use a single fold, or put a piece of cardboard in between the inner fold.
also the scrubber sponges work well, won't dig and leaves no sand.
Thank you !! This was very helpful I watched like over 20 videos on this topic and your method gave me the results I was looking for
Thanks for the comment Roni! Glad it was of use!
Great video! Do you sand after the first coat?
great advice thanks
Thank you so much for your video! I am refinishing a 1960s coffee table that has many different pieces of wood going in different directions. The middle of the table actually has a bowl (brassiere) in it so the wood on top is pretty complex. Your video got straight to the point and helped me decide on water-based poly! Thanks for the tips!
Verify with the brand you're applying. before applying the 1st coat, most water based poly require a grit of at most 150 (not 300+) , then 180 grit in between other coats, and you can finish the last coat with 400+ grit or more depending on the smoothness you'd like (if not a brown paper bag, or 1500-2000 grit dry or wet sanding paper if you want some luster on a satin finish, then - optionally - wax buffing with a cloth to end the job).
Something else: DO NOT USE Mineral Spirits as is suggested in the clip with a WATER based finish, never (use plain tap water if not distilled water)!
I’ve been having Polly trouble for years!! I up cycle many things but thanks to your Vlog today it proves the myth?? Yes u can teach and old dog new tricks…. Again TY u have a great presentation ability… I hope to see more…..
Thanks for the kind words! Unfortunately with the price of lumber we have held off a bit.. happy building!
Looks great , after the last coat can u buff it smooth with a scotch brite pad or 2000 grit sandpaper to make smooth and or shiner . Good job
Beautiful work....however, I am a fan of the matte poly finish...so far the best brand I have found is Rustoleum and varathane ( I think varathane is manufactured by rustoleum🤔
A Mr.clean eraser pad will gently knock back the sheen on any clear coat
im doing a project and i am going to try and see how it looks by using a very good roller...i tryed the brush but dont like it....
Thanks for the video. I have used oil based polys in the past, and will be using water based for the first time on a Murphy bed project I am finishing up. Question...as far as a brush goes, I have gotten brushes for oil based products for poly, because I have been using oil based poly. Now that I am switching to water based, will any style brush do...like ones for latex paints?
Hey Creator439, I just use a Valspar Wall and Trim brush. It was one I happened to have at the time and it worked well. I’ve used it on about 10 projects now. I put the for coat on a little thin and a real thick second coat. If you see brush lines at first it’s okay because when you put it on thick the poly will blend together (level itself out). Thanks for the comment!
Thank you! I really enjoyed your video! Question… I’m staining my staircase railing, so I sanded and stained it. Do I put the poly on first or do I sand before? Won’t I take off the stain if I sand it?
Same very light sanding
Okay would he interested in seeing you use this same minwax on Painted wood. Things like how long to wait before painting the top coat.
Also what if... say you used gripper on an already finished table then painted on that. Scenarios that someone at home may run into.
I did see somewhere that this minwax one coat you may need 2 coats of due to the way it dries. It may not be so smooth.
Good day,
Thank you for this detailed video.
I have a problem when using varnish (with both I wax or water based), both dry so quickly making lumps, any advice please?
Note: I varnish painted wood.
Thank you in advance for your reply and time.
Regards
Hello! I would ensure your paint is fully cured prior to applying the varnish. You should soak the brush (bristles) in water prior to inserting it into the can of polyurethane (soak in water for water based and mineral spirits for oil based.) Also make sure you don’t shake the can of polyurethane which will introduce air causing bubbles. Try slowly mixing the varnish with a paint stirrer. Hope this helps!
Is it worth thinning the water based poly with water?
Hey! Do you find you have less bubbles using a regular paint brush brush vs a sponge brush? Everything I read said to use the sponge brush but it’s bell with the bubbles! Any tips would be great
Hey Stef, I usually use sponge brushes for stain, I find there aren’t many bubbles with a regular paint brush, but when you stir the poly, make sure to stir slow. If you stir too fast you’ll have a ton of bubbles regardless of the brush.
Good job any advice for using this on a hardwood floor which I'm about to do
Hardwood won’t absorb the poly as much and more will sit on the surface creating a stronger layer. It can be applied the same. I would recommend trying a clear, satin, etc poly on a few scrap pieces to see what finish or sheen you are looking for. Good luck!
@@homerenomadeez6616 oh thanks I'm already done it looks great 👍
Beautiful !! Just curious, did you do all of this to the underside of the tabletop?
Hello Ed,
I didn’t do this to the underside as you wouldn’t see it, save that material where you can!
What do you clean these surfaces with afterwards? Like an all purpose cleaner or a wood cleaner?
If you are talking about wiping dust or maybe some spilt soda off of it, I use windex or soap and water. Some simple cleaner but nothing that may make it cloudy, such as starting fluid or carb cleaner. Stick with higher pH products. Thanks for the comment!
will 90% alcohol work instead of Mineral spirits
How many coats did you end up applying? Also, I'd suggest a coat hanger/rack project. I was gonna try to build something to put on the wall above an entry way bench.
Hello Wang Chung! Sorry for the late response. I only used two coats.
Only two coats of poly... but each coat was 5 coats worth lol. That was an insanely heavy coat man, that looked like fun.
Hey great video. I have painted something on my bare wood. I then stained it and added one coat of poly. I want to sand it and add a second coat of poly, but I'm worried I'll remove some of the underlying paint. Will it be safe?
Hey Joe thanks for the comment! And personally, you could give it a light scuff with high grit sandpaper. I wouldn’t use anything under 220 grit and just do it by hand with light force. Good luck!
I'm having an issue with the poly beading up on the sides and underneath. I'm brushing it on small amounts.
Hey Josh,
I would try wiping back over the top and bottom edges after you apply a coat. On the sides for instance, put on the poly and then after you apply it, don’t put anymore on your brush, just wipe back over the edges. It also depends on your poly, it may be a lot more runny then the one I had used. Another option is to sand the bottom drips off
Hi,
Please let me know if you have to wet the brush in water before starting to apply the water based urethane?
Hello Ashley, I did not wet the brush prior to applying.
Yes you do to save the brush. However make sure you give the brush a good spin to get all the excess water out👌
Can you apply this on top of paint to protect the finish from scratches? If so are the steps the same?
Yes! But I would use an epoxy countertop protector instead of poly. The epoxy is much stronger and you can find it right on Amazon.
Since it says water base wouldn’t the polyurethane get washed off little by little every time you clean the table with water and a rag ???
Hey Tony, it has properties that harden it. So cleaning is no issue, but dropping things such as plates will dent it and I wouldn’t place got items on it. Check out my video on the epoxy counter I made. That is a lot stronger of a finish.
How long should stain dry before you poly?
Hey Tim, I let it sit overnight personally. Recommended is 24-48 hours.
Water based seems much more forgiving than oil. I tried to finish a butcher block wall table with oil poly and it was a wreck after 1 coat. I'm in the process of stripping it off and starting over. I think I'll use a wasted based poly after i let the stain fully cure.
How did the butcher block come off looking? I am building a butcher block desktop, and I used water-based polyurethane for three coats. I just applied the last coat, and now waiting for it to cure.
1st coat always looks bad. You must apply 2 or more coats for a high quality finish. Keep in mind 1st coat fills in the wood. It isn't the finishing coat. All my projects look like crap on the 1st coat of oil polyurethane however 2nd or 3rd coat it looks fantastic 👌
Sir does it work on plywood?
It would seal it, but when talking about something like OSB you’d need multiple coats to level it without ribs and bumps.
Is the poly semi-gloss, pls.?
The one I used is called (Clear Gloss)
Sir, does this method apply on wall?
Hello, if you are doing something like pine wall boards you can use a spray gun with poly, you’d have to do more coats but it would save a lot of time. Just make sure it is a well ventilated area!
@@homerenomadeez6616 thanks
Did you sand after the first coat and also wipe with the Naptha product?
Hi Tony, I ended up sanding after each coat and applied the Naptha to take off the dust. Just a light sanding though, imagine you’re “roughing” the surface for the next coat to adhere.
@@homerenomadeez6616 Thank you for your help. First coat is on and it looks pretty good. Not as perfect as yours but I was close to getting a chain saw or a blow torch and ending the battle. Another coat tomorrow. Thanks for all the tips!
If i use this over lightly textured acrylic paint. Will it be smooth? Or will instill feel the texture? I want something smooth like epoxy but without the epoxy price tag. I found a water-based polyurethane that says triple thick by varathane. And im considering it. What do u think?
Two light coats is better than 1 thick coat
Hi, do you have a video to show? I’m just having a hard time just doing light coats. It comes out looking horrible and blotched . Thanks
Very nice job but his method is long and tedious. I usually apply water based polyurethane with a spray gun at 40lbs pressure. I apply one coat then let it dry and sand it with a orbital sander with 220 grit then clean the dust with a tack cloth. I apply it again with a spray gun at 40 psi and voila! I have glass smooth surface. I finish all my cabinets and drawers using this method.
*DO NOT USE Mineral Spirits* as is suggested in the clip *with a WATER based finish!* NEVER! Use plain tap water if not distilled water instead. Mineral Spirits is only good for *_oil_* based poly/varnishes.
Also of importance... Before settling on a sanding grit, verify with the poly brand you're using. Some won't be as efficient if the grit between coats is too fine, same thing for the 1st coat. For instance, the water based poly that I use, specifically mentions that before applying the 1st coat, it requires a grit of at most 150 (not 300+) , then 180 grit in between other coats, and you can finish the last coat with 400+ grit or more depending on the smoothness you'd like (if not a brown paper bag, or 1500-2000 grit dry or wet sanding paper if you want some luster on a satin finish, then - optionally - wax buffing with a cloth to end the job).
Non professional work!
As soon as i saw you wearing Crocs you lost all credibility as a Man that knows anything.
Don't buy this crap. It sucks big time. Minwax is sucking people into this crappy product. If you value your wood project...if you build for the love of the art...stay far far and away from water based poly!
bro theres no need to discourage people from buying the product if it doesn't work for you then it doesn't work you , other people may have a different experience using this product then you just like the the guy in the video. in my opinion the end result came out great.
Thanks for the comment DIY Sneaker! I believe both polyurethanes can come out great and as you said, some are for certain people and some are for others! Building is always a great time regardless.
Professional sign maker here....I make around 4000 signs per year all sealed with water based poly. No issue with the process and no complains from any customers. Danny what ever his name is, is clueless
@@anthonysorensen3666 you are so welcome 👇😂