What happened to our Rav4 Engine | TEARDOWN
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Everything was going well on our trip to the dyno, until something let go...
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Gotta put the video on pause while I go change my oil ....
😂
Gotta put my oil change on pause to watch a video! 😅
oil change never herd of it
Buy a Renault it'll leak so much there's no point changing it just top it up and slap a filter on every now and again
Me too
Like kids with a new set of lego, hands everywhere 😂
Shit its bad
hands coming in from every direction to disassemble a small motor. how many redbulls did you all have. even the talk was at 2x speed :P
Their enthusiasm for this engine was legendary lol
Red bull, nose beers, who's counting..
Gotta to be from the Sepang Kei Car 24 hours race experience when every guy from neighbouring pit jumped in the gearbox swap😅
All the mates ahoy! 😂🤝
Isaac is a weapon, he runs at 150% speed all the time, no performance enhancers required :)
This strangely looked like med students disecting their first cadaver
Thinking exactly that
Yeah how long ago was this Rav4 project because the Brumby is in the background?
Thinking the same👀
Yeah didn't the Brumby go to a new home ?
Yeah the OIL advert is coming out soon, I think, and it was shot when the RAV went to Qld - Oil Advert takes time to edit ; so it is all many months ago.
Probably after the TopGear shoots while TG was in post, but before the TG promo appearances and interviews started.
Dyno tune was in March
How appropriate that this was for the oils campaign
You know what this means? Time for a no budget big power build. Get two hybrid 2AZ-FXE intake cams re-timed to performance lobe centerlines to make a cheapo race cam motor, some cheap forged rods and pistons, maybe epoxy the deck if you're feeling spicy, then Rav4 to the moon.
1000% this!
I would love to see a Frankenstein motor works crossover with MCM
Love this idea! haha at first i read that as unlimited budget, not literally no budget. that would be fun! sloppy mechanics style budget "built" motor!
That's 2AR-FXE, the successor to the 2AZ which they have.
I've seen no documentation if it is possible to do the cam swap with 2AZ -FXE as which can be done with the 2AR-FXE.
If any body has any info on the 2AZ-FXE i would love to see it.
There is one at my local pick a part so guess ill have to find out me self.
Oh and love Frankenstein motor works differently check out marc's works great stuff.
@@CRsGarage-nz You're right I'm just speculating, but I believe the 1NZ also can do the same thing, so I think it'd likely work the same as the others
4:03 not a cam sensor, it’s a vvti solenoid, if it’s full of sludge then there is no oil to the vvti controller then the cam leaves the chat 😂😂
Indeed, and the amount of sludge in the ocv was a clear sign that it was blocked there.
Yeah it was hard to watch that and many of the other conclusions without yelling at the tv 😂
Yep got to clean the vvti screen once in a while
i reckon most of that engine is salvageable. the crank is probably fine, you can check the rods for roundness and size. the head would be ok, just need a new intake camshaft. it might be a good block to keep around if you plan on keeping the rav just in case the new wrecker engine grenades itself too.
Stage 2 performance cams?
Absolutely not a waste, love seeing things like this! I watch I Do Cars engine teardowns, and just seeing them is always a cool thing.
The fact you've got your buddies with you and you're all putting in your input and stuff was super cool to see!
I'd love to get somewhere to disassemble and rebuild an engine some day. Cheers for sharing with us Marty (and bois). :D
That sludge...yikes. wouldn't be surprised the oil change made it worse, unlocking the sludge and blocking the oil passages.
Some mechanics recommend not using oil flush for that reason, especially if the car hasn't been looked after. All the crud that's been holding to the engine walls gets lose and blocks everything up.
You're better doing 3000km oil changes for a while instead.
I put synthetic in a old engine and discovered the valve covers had a 1/4" gap in the gasket filled w cooked oil.
@@poochey1 Exactly. That's why I'm not a big fan of flushing products. I would prefer a soft flushing process, doing multiple oil changes in a short time span, and then use a good synthetic oil.
All the lads working like a well oiled machine.
Mmm wroom dadyy 😂😂
I've purchased a few used cars over the years, and I always baby the vehicle until after I do an oil change with a shot of Seafoam in the crank case, and then a second oil change to get the previous owner's sludge out. After that, the oil stays pretty clean and the vehicle runs well. I don't understand why you would try to get more power out of this motor when you haven't done anything to check the state of the motor, or even do a flush of the oiling system. At the very least, you should have done an oil change.
5:05 you would expect some1 with so much bin throwing experience to make that..
That piston movement within the bore isnt an issue, its just the piston moving within the piston ring clearances.
Marty should know about piston slap 😂
@@SHANDEE2 that's loose as a goose my man 👍
@@scoobysean555 you would've thought so, right? I listen to it every cold start for about a minute or two on my half a million km Volvo B230F. Very short stroke, lots of engine time but built to survive the apocalypse. I'm glad mine is still tight enough to stop piston slapping once it's warming up but I've heard of engines running for another 200.000 k's and up while piston slapping like mad all day long.
Nah, that's too loose. It's not horrible but it's getting there.
@bigmuz_pilot it's not good but I doubt it would cause a noise or oil consumption
My Mini has been in storage for 7 months... BRB, going to do an oil change real quick.
Marty cant you guys do a video with the dirty sludge wreckers engine? Like what stuff you can do (if any) to get it clean without opening it up? Change oil every 500km, add petroleum/kerosine, use additives etc.
Service your cars people, even if it’s a Camry.
This is a good excuse to build it and then Send It Marty lol
Brumby in the background, thought it was auctioned off ages ago
Cheers fellas, keeping me entertained whilst my flight out of Paris is delayed.
After the "Dyno Disaster" i was patiently waiting for this lol. Not the bearing I thought shat the bed but jeez that's sludgy
Check out another channel on youtube called "I Do Cars"... it's a guy in Missouri USA who owns a salvage yard (wreckers to you guys) and his whole thing is tearing down blown up engines to see why they failed. Some of the failures are catastrophic others are like the RAV's engine... it's a pretty interesting look into why and how engines blow up. He also does videos on how the salvage business works. In most cases, the engine failures are caused by neglect... lack of oil changes.
The best teardown vid I've seen for ages.
Cheers 🙂 🍺
Love the Brumby in the background!! :D
Nice teardown video. Now I just need the rebuild video, so I can get my Rav4 back on the road xD
Nah, just kidding. Hope you guys will fix this engine though. Love watching videos when people tear down these everyday car engines to find the problem, and then rebuild them :D
2:00 had to check my video playback speed wasn't on 1.25x. old mate talks FAST haha
Isaac is a great guy 👍
2:21 "that engine is Mitsubishi's K24", so is that a 4G69? More 2Sexy?! 👀
Wondered same...
You guys could video rebuilding this motor and then sell it to someone needing to replace theirs after not changing oil for 300k!
Very odd that 2 of the 3 engines in this build have been heavily neglected. Makes you wonder if Toyota/Honda owners think they can go a little longer on maintenance because of the reliability of them. An engine is an engine people, do basic maintenance!
Neglect always destroy engines, I had a 95 Nissan Pickup for only over 2 months and sludge, not changing the oil and not changing the coolant destroyed my VG30E, head gasket problems and poor running is due to previous owners fault for not keeping up with maintenance, and so check the coolant for rust looking or plain water and open the oil cap and look inside the engine for sludge when buying a used car. Don't get scammed like I did.
Rattlin' like a diesel
If you had take the rocker cover off before you turboed it you would have seen that this engine was not up to it before you started
They did, to change the gasket and paint it red....
When I saw the oil pan taken off when you first started i saw the engine sludge
5:04 IN THE BIN
11:32 Bin Job for the win.
That things not been looked after, lack of proper oil changes
I think the 2AR-FE is a step up from the 2AZ-FE and more akin to Toyota's K engine. It's a shame that they didn't implement 2ZZ-GE's valve lift in those engines, that'd be sick.
Basically if you want to make N/A power, the 2AR is a better motor due to a much better flowing head. But if you're running boost, the 2AZ is IMO the better pick, because they're cheaper, they have more aftermarket support, and both the 2AZ and 2AR max at the same ~400whp if you want any longevity out of them.
@@K31TH3R sounds legit.
Sell the bottom end… somebody wants a block & crank cheap 😂
That's an incredible amount of sludge yikes. I'll never understand why people neglect their engines, oil is so much cheaper than an engine
It amazes me that we still are making engines more and more complicated. Maybe UX/UI designers should take over the business.
Let me just ask what credentials you have in internal combustion engine design and engineering that gives you the confidence to criticise their work?
That doesn’t need to go in the bin. It’s rebuildable.
The brumby is still there
I noticed that too.. and im only 1:20 in.. lol
Also very curious about this lol
Remember when they said they had a dozen projects on the go earlier this yr....this is when it was filmed I assume.
The Supercheap ad drops in a couple of days. It would have been filmed months ago.
Trainspotting legend
Its really a joy to watch smart people doing something that interests them. Spinning spanners with mates is one thing, but great brains there too.
Oil and engine flush with BG kit. Every year. Got almost 400k 3.0 TDI and still strong
This calls for a 2zz-ge surely!!
When I get a "new to me" used car, I like to change the oil over and over until it comes out clean. Some cars only takes 2 or 3 changes. Some cars take 7 or 8 or more. You don't have to drive that far either. 50 to 100 miles is plenty of time for the new oil to soak up as much sludge and crap as it can hold before you drain it out and replace it. When I did this on my old matrix I finally got the engine so clean after 7 or 8 changes and 100 miles on each, that when I checked the final oil I put in it I could hardly tell it was on the stick it was so clean, I seriously thought I had no oil for a minute haha. I highly recommend this though. I don't think many people know that you can totally clean a sludged engine just by changing the oil back to back until it comes out clean.
I was wondering about this myself if an engine in this state could be saved by flyshing it.
Do you ever use special engine flush products?
Before the first flush, I warm it up, then throw a bottle of liqui-moly engine flush plus in it (supercheap has it) and idle it for fifteen minutes, then drop the old oil. I'll use cheap 10w40 to flush it a few times then use the grade of oil I'm going to use goes in with a bottle of liqui-moly cera-tec (again from supercheap.) For old engines (200,000km +) I'll spend the extra $20 and splash out for the liqui-moly high mileage Engine Detox instead of the engine flush plus.
You can use synthetic oil as well to help break up and remove the sludge. After 500 miles the majority of the sludge is gone. Use conventional oil to get ride of the rest.
@@FrankSmit-rf4bg No I don't, because normal oil already has detergents and cleaners in it. And they work great, but it can only hold so much dirt, so you just got to keep changing til its clean. I do know that water injection in the intake will clean the carbon out of your valves and piston faces. (improves mileage and power too..)
Anyone who’s reading this comment section check out the Motor Oil Geek video on oil additives.
Also use fuel additives(injector cleaner, redex etc)if you want to keep your injectors and fuel system clean
I love forensics, this was great, thanks Marty and team
I have torn apart a couple of Lada 2101-2107 engines, most of them look even worse than this one, because back in the day they had no good oil, so ran M10 oil. But the engine is so simple and designed with large gaps for bad oil to flow, so it works like this for pretty much the whole life of the car. Oh and nowadays we don't have thick oils, so pour 15-w40 and the engine is not happy. It likes 15w-50 and still has low oil pressure. They fixed the issue on their newer engines like the 2108,2109 and the Niva.
Seriously: change your oil. I just had to replace BOTH cylinder heads on a Honda ffs because the last owner didn't bother doing frequent oil changes and the camshafts don't have bearings...if it eats something it's eating the cylinder head itself. Not to mention the thing was leaking power steering fluid really bad where they were probably adding a quart every few months ($1 o-ring), and also leaking oil from the filter housing ($10 gasket) which would have been prevented by regular oil changes.
A K can make about 230 with just bolt on NA, dont even need a turbo.
Interesting tear down, a classic example of neglect! Most of this bearing damage would have occurred before you guys got your hands on it - the extra bearing load would've been the last nail in the coffin.
Though, the piston rock is normal. It's a cold engine and everything that moves needs clearance. Even a piston with as little as .001 clearance will rock a surprising amount. This 'rock' is exaggerated from the piston skirts being barrel shaped. This very normal and necessary movement is often misconstrued with a worn piston or cylinder.
That hole in the rod isn't oil supply to the bearing - that's the cylinder wall squirter, which will be aimed at the thrust side of the piston skirt & cylinder wall (normally to the left looking from the front). The feed to the rod rather comes from the main journals, into the crank pin and out into the rod bearing. The oil hole that's blocked with bearing material didn't cause the bearing failure, but rather the bearing failure has simply blocked the cylinder wall squirter.
Nope Ive seen motors in my shop with less than 50k looking that bad! Why because at 50 it had maybe 2 or 3 oil changes! Customers would say I changed it when the oil change light came on! But in reality they waited another 3k before they changed it!
Um. Stupid question..
Did you change the oil. Give it a oil flush.
New Oil..
Before Dyno testing?
I do that to every car I buy.. no matter what the paper work says..
Just doing that, you might find. Crunchy Bits..
These are NOT good engines, like most Toyota engines without Yamaha.
Faulty piston design causes them to burn a oil and that is why both them engines are full of sludge and toyota didn’t fix this issue until 2011.
Honda and Yamaha make the best engines, Toyota now have so many engines with so many issues and like you said even a SOHC mitsubishi engine is better.
Toyota makes great transmissions but not engines
Oil change, never heard of her, back in my day we just topped them off and kept sending it.
Totally unrelated but does anyone have a good running 1927 reo engine?
My theory is that the VVT solenoid clogged completely and shredded the first bearing... My 2AZ had gone through a couple VVT solenoids, so I'm very familiar with the symptoms...
Thats definitely the result of cheap oil ran well beyond what its engineered. Premium oils (not stuff you can buy off the shelf) can be run for considerably long intervals...only verified with lab testing.
God the language! Marty covering his pain with Sarcasm, the rest using powerful vocabulary, authentic, straight, no Bullcrap.
Straight from real life, buying a car and not even changing Oil...
BAD IDEA. I´ll note and avoid this.
Do Australians not change their oil enough? Is oil expensive, is the environmental lobby making it harder? Here in the U.S. we can get full synthetic mobil 1 (10k/20k) for 25$ and supertech for under 20$
That engine is rough. Definitely a prime example of poor maintenance....and some questionable engine tear down skills 👀🥸
yeah wow, that is up there. i pulled a motor that sat for 10 years and prior had no love and it looked like this.
I'm not a mechanic and my understanding of auto mechanics is pretty limited, so my question might be dumb, but:
Did you take your time to tear down the engine simply out of curiosity? Or is the diagnosis necessary to figure out in case something *else* is wrong with the car?
in the bin? wow.. that's definately a candidate for a budget rebuild and another 300k life
95% of people out there when you think you're supposed to change your oil..... start changing it 20 to 30% sooner. For example I own a suburban every time it gets to 20%. I change it.... sometime sooner. Oil is cheap engines are not
Neglect notwithstanding, this is also a typical result of following Toyota's "recommended" oil change intervals. They are laughably long. It's a great motor if you change the oil every 5000 miles.
What a perfect ending for the worlds most boring, soulless, gutless, sh!t sounding automotive product on the market. If only all Toyota's came to this demise.
Also... perfect timing for an oil commercial haha.
Good job boys.
Ain't nobody got time for oil changes!
For what its worth - The hole in the upper shell of the bearing typically leads to a very small hole in the upper half of the rod, which squirts a small jet of oil towards the piston/cylinder wall.
I'm happy that I change my oil regulary, far within spec 😆 the spec says 30k km for my VW Passat TDi, but I change it at around 20k km, which means I change oil twice a year 😬
Oil changes, oil changes, oil changes. 5000ks. Just buy an LS next time....LS the world!
Sludge killls alright! I have a 2nd gen RAV4 2.0 and had to do a desludge at 320,000kms after plenty of out of town running it only took a couple of years of town driving to sludge up even with regular oil changes
So the turbo had nothing to do with it, surprising. Cams aren't loaded by boost, it probably just never got revved high before the dyno.
Great motors/manufacturers,era of manufacturing. BMW 328 under powered from factory becomes boosted weapon also from this era.
Regular maintenance is key. Also caring about the vehicle you drive, it’s amazing how many people buy a car and do nothing to it but out fuel in it, drive 100k to major failure. No oil changes, pretty much nothing, then mad that it didn’t go 1 million miles
Here's a suggestion, as many of us can't afford to buy late model cars with full service histories and healthy engines, but rather buy 15-25 year old things, that have been neglected, why not do a series on a sludgy motor and things we can do to help revive/extend the engines life before doing a tear down and rebuild?
Get a 300 000k plus car, try things like frequent oil and filter changes, running diesel as a cleaner (I've heads this helps) and see if there is a way to extend an engines life for the man in the street who doesn't have the means or budget to just swap the motor out or rebuild it
I've got a 2.0 with several windows in the block sludge blocked the pickup strangely enough it run on 3 not even tappy it completely ejected a rod along with half the piston 😢
exact thing that happened to my engine. Toyota 1zz. Openly admit to poor maintenance. Mine happened at 185k miles. Car leaked and burned more then I could ever change. So it was just a matter of time before low oil level and heat caught up with it.
That engine is so sludgy, Donald Trump might sign an executive order to invade Australia as soon as he becomes President.
I wanna see you guys spice these engines up a little more man. Cams, stroker cranks, rods, big bore, cams etc... I wanna live vicariously thru you guys. Yeah nuggets are fun.. but let's see some absolute beast nuggets every now and then.
I rebuilt my pk rangers 3 litre diesel about 30k km ago and i could get away with 10k km oil changeas being basically a brand new motor but I'll stick to 5k km intervals just because i want it to last. I work the motor pretty hard day in day out and oils pretty cheap in the scheme of things. Penrite all the way for me.
Rebuild it with better rods and new bearings and make more power than a Honda k can.. then fit it too the rav 4 after sending the engine in it..
The rwd toyota corolla that was doing the American drift series was making 1000hp from 2ar/2az
Look up BG dynamic engine restoration. It will clean out all sludge and galleries. Worth doing on any second hand engine you fit to ensure that oil flow can be as good as the pump can drive it. Of course excessive wear caused by previous blockages will still exist but pressure and flow can be as good as the existing components can allow.
This is why I run diesel oil in everything. Gas oils have eliminated zink additives because of possible shorting of the catalytic converter life. Engines did not sludge like this 30 years ago. Look inside large diesel engines that run 25000 miles between oil changes as a normal course of maintenance and you will not see this.
By changing the oil to a good Castrol might have accelerated this, the cleaning agents in the Castrol may have dislodged the sludge.
You say, that’s what you get with a wrecker motor.
Was this the original rav4 motor that let go or the engine that was supplied by a wrecker that you didn’t use.
I hope that wrecker played fair.
These 2.4 engines are known for sludge. When buying second hand .ensure to clean out strainers/pickup
Change oil pump.
Aah $50 won't cover. It's more likely $100 and a $30 filter. Still sound advice. I love you guys.
If someone needs to skip on maintenance for financial reasons, it's better if they sell the car because the bill at the end of the day could be huge, just to save a few bucks every year changing the oil... And if they skip it for other reasons, then they are... not very intelligent 🤦🏻♂
Whatever you guys end up doing do not get wiseco pistons. So many 2az owner blown the ringland off of those.
These engines are notorious for having bad piston rings from the factory. They can run for many years fine burning the oil between service intervals and no one will ever notice. Until someone does what you guys did. You're really aiming at looking at an engine after about 2010 when most of the problems that creeped into the platform were finally corrected.
Sad to see an engine die.
My question is do Engine Oil Cleaners work? If you had used those say once or twice before Dyno'ing it, would they have been able to clear the blockages and saved the heart? Or is it a case of it was too far gone and once an engine has blockages it's just a matter of time? Changing the oil or engine cleaners can't save it.
The Brumby is back for warranty issues...!! Ha ha.. Love your work guys... Now i know why you guys are in shorts...!
You know what... i believe those miles on the engine. They blew the first one up at 150k and put a brand new one in, then proceeded to do fuck all servicing and blew the next one up too 🤣🤣
Tear it down completely get it cleaned and rebuild it with forged pistons and all other necessary mods big turbo and try get 1000kw haha
“They aren’t meant to fail even with boost”
Mate, let me introduce you, to the wanna be turbo 1HZ, merely seconds away from a bit too much boost and a missing conrod
Before u turbo an engine do a compresion test, it's not wise to turbo a car without a complete check and with hi mileage, did any 1 check the service book?, why didn't u just throw the engine in the bin know u wasting time to make video, don't u have other jobs?
The UK is done for engine tuning now. New cars to be fitted with speed limit governing software, So handling is all we have left. Wont be long before all cars have a box telling your story on board.
Its not that they didnt change the oil enough those motors sludge up because of the piston oil drain holes getting clogged.. andvi guarantee the balance shaft is the issue. The shaft with the 2 gears on it is not supposed to have any play within the gears and isaw them move.. those balance shafts spin at like 3x what the motor crank rpm is.. they are supposed to be solid. If the two gears on that shaft move at all independently of one another than it will knock and tear up all the bearings in the motor quick, is why they get deleted in peoples motors who built them. You block off the oil passage to them and toss em.. less rotating mass in the motor and less oil wear.. but those pistons and oil rings were recalled on those motors for burning excessive oil.. which creates sludge.. everywherr.. dont believe everything you hear “experts” say about something until youve tore into that something yourself and did your own research.. just sayin.
I have seen that kind of buildup from a clogged PCV system more than simple neglect.
Ok MCM what do you do if your engine already looks like that? Also you need a Toyota BB (Scion xB to us Yanks) build.