Sanding Between Topcoats - Getting a SMOOTH Finish
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- Опубликовано: 7 мар 2020
- Bethany from Madeline Jean Antiques & Restoration shows you how to sand between topcoats to achieve a flawless and smooth finish.
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Other tutorials to check out:
TOPCOATS! HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT ONE-
• Topcoats! How to Choos... - Хобби
Thank you for this tutorial, it is super helpful in smoothing out some layers of poly that dried uneven on a mirror frame I refurbed.
Fantastic! So glad it helped you.
Thanks for the detail on this video. I’m confident I’ll finish my table well now.
That's great! I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for commenting.
Great video, this part is always skipped in the tutorials I've read/watched online so it's nice to see someone finally demonstrate and explain, thank you!
Glad it was helpful! I love hearing feedback from people so thank you.
You really have a way of explaining that's detailed, focused and ,at least to me, exude as genuine. I feel you are a fantastic instructor. Thank you for the much needed tip!
So nice of you to say! Thank you so much!
Thank you for this. I wish I'd seen this before taking my orbital sander to sand between topcoats. Now I'm going to apply two more coats following your method to restore some of the excess poly I took off. Thankfully I'm using water based, so it dries very quickly.
Glad it was helpful! Oh no you took an orbital sander between topcoats *gulp!
Thank you so much for this tutorial. As this is my very first staining/poly'ing so this was an awesome and informative video. You answered many of my burning questions like sandpaper grit between coats, drying time for oil-based poly and number of coats that should be applied to my trash picked dining room table. Great video.
You are so welcome! I love when viewers get a ton out of watching my video. Thanks for commenting and sharing what helped you.
Great video! I already have a good system for refinishing down but still learned some things from your video and your answers in the comments section. Thanks!
Thank you! It’s nice to hear even an experienced refinisher like yourself got some good nuggets of info from the video. 😁
Excellent tutorial. Thank you so much Bethany.
You are so welcome! Glad it was helpful!
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 Yes...I am at the moment varnishing the top of an ivory sideboard with *Black* (chalk based) paint. The first coat of (oil based) Polly went on just ok (quite a few blemishes) etc. So, I hope that tomorrow I can sand the top down with a fine grade sandpaper....and then 'roll' on another coat of polly. Here we go....fingers crossed!
Thank you! This is so helpful. I was always afraid to sand between coats because I didn’t want to scratch my finish with sand paper, and steel wool seemed too aggressive. I’ll look for 400/500 grit and start expecting better results!
Wonderful! I'm glad you found this video helpful. I wouldn't use steel wool, it is to aggressive and it leaves those little fibers behind. Definitely go the 400/500 girt route. Best of luck!
Thanks!!! Getting ready to refinish a musical instrument and this will help tremendously!!
Rock on!
After a zillion videos that weren't super helpful I came across this. Very straightforward, simple, and to the point. Best video I've seen by far, not even close. Now to finish staining my stairs!
Glad it helped! Thank you for watching and leaving such a nice comment!
Thanks, you addressed some of the little details I needed answers to
Glad it was helpful!
Very good info.. Back in the 1990s I was doing some wood working projects, and my sanding was back and forth.. I can see this is much better in keeping the surface all the same "as in flat". As soon as it warms up, I'll have to do a little wood working again, so I'll use this technique from now on..
Thank you for watching and commenting! Best of luck with your projects in the near future.
This is a great video. The sanding technique between coats is what I was looking for.
I'm glad you found this video helpful! Thanks for watching!
Good video. Have come back to it a few times for a bench top I'm making. Thanks!
Awesome! I hope your bench is coming along nicely.
People may do it differently but what you've explained makes perfect sense and will probably solve a lot of the issues I've been having. Thank you !
I hope you found success with using my method. Thanks for commenting!
Your tutorials are so informative ~ thank you so much!!! I actually feel confident trying Polycrylic thanks to all the great info you present / demonstrate so clearly!
You are so welcome! Thank you for leaving such a nice comment!
Thank you! This is the video I was looking for to show me the in between coats
Glad it was helpful!
Exactly what i was looking for -- thanks for the brief yet real-time demo. Over-sanded my 1st coat of Poly and am receivong contradictory advice from expert friends 😉 So I am using your feather technique with 600 wrapped around a palm-sized block. I know how much work it is to clear the set for filiming, and to light, narrate, and edit these pieces -- so very many thanks from all os us 👍👍
Glad it was helpful! I get equally frusturated on most topcoat cans the instructions are to sand inbetween coats with 220 grit. It's still too rough. I recommend anywhere between 400-600 grit.
I love your video your saving my current project very detailed!
Yeaaaaaa! I love hearing this!
Thank you for this video. Very well done.
Glad it was helpful!
I sooo needed this tutorial. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great info, you rock !!!!
I appreciate that!
Very good video, thank-you! 🌸
I’m glad you found it helpful! 😊
Glad I watched really clarifies the between coats sanding high grit paper 1 swoop across with a block for even coverage got it 👍
You weren't lying! That is a gorgeous dresser!! Thank you for the tips on this. I am finishing up my chess set and didn't want to screw up on the last steps lol. I am using 1000 grit as it's what I have and seems to use well for that!
Yes this dresser was insanely gorgeous! I'm glad it went to a good home. It sold before I finished it. A chess set sounds like a fun project! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice job Madelyn. TY
No problem. My name is Bethany.
Excellent tips!
Glad you think so!
Great vid!! I love your technique for guiding the foam pad/sand paper across the entire length. I have 3 shelves for a stereo rack to do tomorrow, so your video came in real handy👍👍 I too use General Finishes Top Coat Datin.
Thanks for checking my video out. I hope it helps with your stereo rack project.
Thanks, this is very helpful!
I’m so glad you found the video helpful 😊
Great video, but what I’m really impressed by is that you have responded to every comment! That’s amazing!
I try my best to respond to each and every comment. Thank you for noticing!
Excellent video!!
Thank you very much!
Thank you for a great video! I am painting my very first piece of furniture this weekend. Eeekkk! I’ve sanded, used the red bullseye primer, will now get the block and sand paper before I paint. I’m so nervous!
You got this! Question…the primer…does it have shellac in it? Also what color are you painting the piece of furniture? I ask these questions because the lighter color you use you want to make sure you use a primer with Shellac in it or you can just use Shellac alone. Shellac is used to block stains in the wood and to block wood tannins that may come to the surface.
Great video really helpful, thank you!!
Thanks for watching! Glad it was helpful.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 I watched this video only after I made a mistake. I used 220 grit after my first coat and now my second coat has dried and you can see the sanding marks 😅
Bethany-sister of wise whisper: thank you extremely much for this helpful video! 🙏🏽💛
You are so welcome!
I liked your vid. Keep up the good work 👍
Appreciate it! Thank you!
Great video. Thank you for a great explanation
Awesome
My pleasure!
Bethany,
1rst rule - DONT let anyone tell you, you are doing anything wrong if you are getting the results you like.
You sand between top coats very different than me, but it surely doesn’t make you wrong.
If you worked for us, we would say, “Do what gives you, your best results”
We had 2 gentleman working for us, one used a Dremel to replicate applied carvings & one used his own very expensive Swiss made, carving knives.
You can imagine the conflict between those 2.
At the end of the day, you couldn’t tell a difference between their finished carvings & they took relatively the same time to make.
It’s the tools & techniques that work for you !
Absolutely agree with you on the tack cloth. We don’t use them at all & have very professional results & we do nothing more than blow the dust off & then wipe the piece with our bare hands.
3 coats is a relative target.
You are actually, visually gauging mil thickness of your finish.
On rare days, you can hit the sheen you like in 2 coats, but rarely in our case.
The older & more dry the piece or softer more absorbent grained wood, we have sprayed as many as 10 coats.
Most often 4 or 5 coats.
Our staunch rule is this -
If you step back after your last coat & ask yourself,
“Does it need another coat ??”
Give it another coat.
We spray everything.
Our 1rst coat is always light, 2nd coat is wet & heavy as it will have good cling to the 1rst light coat & 3 coat is just a good solid final wet coat.
Coats beyond 3rd will most often be lighter as we go.
& yep, we sand between each of the coats.
You do beautiful professional work. You stick with what gives you results you are happy with.
Don’t let any of the “arm chair warriors” or “seasoned professionals” tell you that you are doing anything wrong.
Pick & choose your techniques based on what makes sense to you !
Keep up the gorgeous work, your skills are worth every penny you charge & much more.
Hey Tommy, What an insightful comment! Thank you for the encouragement! This line of work is so hard and time consuming at times. I'm completely self taught and I'm no where near the level I want to be. I'm constantly learning (and making mistakes) but I do love this work.
I agree 100%! So many people come looking on RUclips for the magic potion/method when it comes to restoration work and honestly it's all about find what works best for you. I may love a method and the next person may hate it and not have the best results. You really need to try some different methods, different products and find which ones you personally love.
I wish I had the ventilation system set up to spray topcoats but I work mainly in my basement and that's why I go the brush on route. Someday I'll have a better set up. For now I'm thankful I at least have a nice basement.
Very pretty!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for the tip. You thoroughly explained the steps and definitely answered a question I had. By the way my client dog is name Biscuit I love it.
Thanks for watching! Glad this video was helpful.
You could have made the algorithm slam this video in my face 2 weeks ago! Thanks a bunch
I wish I had that power!
Love Biscuit..cute
I'm new to furniture redo's, I did one bathroom cabinet with some transfers on it
but I think I used polyurethane instead of polychrelic.and now it turned yellow😢.plus, I never did 3 coats and never sanded in between coats.
I am so glad I watched your tutorial. I learned so much I may attempt to do a small table.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge 😊
You are so welcome! Bummer about the polyurethane. It will amber/yellow over time or almost immediately. Frustrating lesson to learn I'm sure.
Wish I followed your instructions before tackling my project lol
Sanded, stained, first coat of poly, looked flawless.
Then I lightly sanded with 320 by hand and applied second coat of poly. I now have microscratches all of my live edge piece. Infuriating.
Good thing I started with the bottom. I will be doing YOUR METHOD to the top.
Oh nooooooo! Unfortunately I think a lot of us have had similar experiences. I know on most cans of poly or topcoat it says to sand with 220 grit sandpaper in between coats and it’s just too rough of sandpaper. You will get those microscratches. I always use anywhere between 400-600 grit. Usually 400
I cringe at the 220 instructions because ultimately, it's not one size fits all. You need to know what you're after.
For a stained piece like this, 400 to 600 grit is just perfect at the end. There's a lot of wood grain to pop out, and that sort of buries any scratches at that level, but if a person wants to get into a mirror finish (I build electric guitars and often seek a mirrored finish like what is seen on lacquered furniture), *then* you begin to realize just how aggressive 1000 grit sandpaper is at removing and scratching the finish even with wet-sanding. So it's really a bit of trial and error along with understanding how the finished look should appear.
The key to remember is, you can always re-sand and apply more clear coat. Eventually it will look fantastic!
So I've definitely learned to try a less is more approach when sanding between coats. It usually winds up with me getting materials together and getting situated and thinking well I might as well put some elbow grease into if I want it to look good. But your advice has me thinking twice about that.
Say have you ever used wet sanding when spray painting? Messy yes but it keeps the sandpaper moving and cutting if a paint surface isn't 100% cured.
Less is definitely more when it comes to sanding inbetween topcoats. I haven't personally tried the wet sanding. I know some people do that when they are applying a very heavy duty coat of poly and what it super shiny.
Will be trying this method on a mahogany study desk I just built for my daughter, hoping to have the same great results you have had with it
You built a desk??? That's awesome! I hope this method works well for you too!
This is the EXACT tutorial I was looking for. I was getting so frustrated after having to redo my whole bench again! This sanding technique leaves such a perfect finish. It really makes a difference. Thank you for saving my project!
You're very welcome! Glad I could help!
Hi Bethany, I assembled a wide wood framing for a sculpture relief I made. The top surface is 1/16" rosewood veneer. (A test of MinWax Polycrylic Clear Matte finish made it look too shiny, so for this project the veneer will be unfinished.) An ultra thin crack no one can see allowed one tiny bit of Gorilla glue to seep through. QUESTION: how to remove it without wrecking the veneer's appearance? There are many internet recommendations, but you are the best--so hence the question. Thank you, Rob
about to put poly on a dining set, thank you!!
Best of luck!
Im a learning how to do this on my pellet gun wood stock. It has really nice wood but the old finish was almost non existant. Scraped it off then sanded it really smooth. Stained ebony miniwax. I just put my first layer of poly 5 minutes ago. Ill sand it lighty tomorrow after its nice and dry. I want to keep the coats even so sanding like you will be good. Its satin finish also from minwax. I like it.
That sounds like quite the project! Patience is key with any topcoat and sanding lightly between coats. It's well worth the extra effort.
Thank You very much!!
You're welcome!
Hi Biscuit ♥️ I’m doing an 84”x42” dining table 😩 tried foam roller, then Purdy brush, both result in uneven texture due to this HUGE surface, I can’t make it across w/o going over some areas that have partially dried, which drags/results in texture in those areas. Have been using 320 grit between coats to try to sand down those raised areas a lil more than the rest (but not obsessing), thinking I’ll finish all 8 coats, THEN buff down to smooth surface using 400, 600, 800, then 1000 grit. Today I decided to try the SPRAY Can of polycrylic for my 7th & 8th coats... should I sand down those textured areas that’ve been piling up (they are stripes, due to my overlapping brush passes) BEFORE I spray? Or after? I’m ok with a more Matte finish (from buffing) if it looks even. Thx so much, I love ur personality and videos!
BeerTastingChampion - Danni Munro Wow that’s a big table indeed!!! If you are going to spray on your last two coats yes I would definitely knock down those raised areas with sandpaper first before you spray. I hope this helps 😊 Thanks for watching my videos!
Thank you for the info! Sanding down the initial top coat scared me as I didn’t want to go through to the stain. On the instructions GF provides I think it says 220grit between coats but the 500 grit definitely does the job. Thanks again.
You are so welcome! I don't know why most topcoats say 220 grit on the can because I find that's still too rough. 400-500 grit is the sweet spot. Thank you for watching and commenting.
220 makes sense if you are doing something like a stair treads. You don't want a piano gloss smooth perfect finish on the stairs. You'll slip all over. LOL. But for any non traffic surface 220 is too rough in my experience.
I love your videos, there very helpful in my furniture restoration project. Question: I just stained my surface, once it dries do I sand prior to applying my 1st poly coat? Thanks!
Thanks for watching my videos Matt! After staining your last coat of stain you DO NOT sand. Wait until your stain is completely dry then just apply your first coat of topcoat.
Thanks for the tips! Would you use a more gritty level sand paper after your first layer? A tip I found helpful last time was from a video of youtube where they used a 3m rubbing pad on an orbital sander after the final coat. Made the poly ulta smooth and more glossy
Glad you liked the video! I always use 400 grit sandpaper and have had much success with it. I haven't tried the 3m rubbing pad. Most of my finished tops I'm going for a satin sheen. I know with glossier finishes some people wet sand their last coat and even use an orbital sander to really get it to shine.
Thank you for such an informative video. Definitely going in with a gentler hand as I sand my primer and begin painting. What do you recommend for people who do not have a vacuum in terms of cleaning up dust particles after a sanding?
I'm so glad you found the video informative! I know some people use a tack cloth to remove dust. I've heard mixed reviews on this. Some say it leaves a waxy residue behind. You could buy a really small shop vac. They have mini ones for around $30-$40. Just a thought.
Your way is the best! It's funny for being a man, the woman explains it the way I can comprehend. Thank you Madeline
Glad you think so! Haha! Love the "a woman explains it the way I can comprehend" part.
Thank you!!
Thanks for watching!
Glad I’ve seen this, even if it’s too late for most of my current project. I’ve been getting so frustrated being able to see micro scratches between coats and my solution was to just sand more in the hope it would buff the scratches out. It mostly works, probably because I’m just removing more poly 🙈 turns out 220 grit between coats is really just too low.
Oh NOOOOOO! That really stinks! I hope you increased your sanding grit to at least 400. It won't create those mirco scratches that you have been experiencing.
Very nice.
Thank you! Cheers!
Hello, retired corpsman here/newbie woodworker learning alot watching your videos. Subscribed and rang the bell. Thank you for sharing your knowledge... God Bless...
Awesome, thank you!
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 give Biscuit a scratch for me
Thank you, straight to the point. Especially cleaning after sanding. 😁🙏🏽
BoulevardTR4L Thank you for stopping by and leaving a nice complimentary comment. 😁
Great tutorial! I guarantee I would have done every single thing you said not to do!
Oh no! Well then I'm truly glad you watched my video before you embarked on your project!
Thanks! I’m using the recommended synthetic bristle brush to apply my polycrylic on stained wood baseboards, but it left so many tiny bubbles, especially on the curved parts. Unfortunately didn’t see your video and I used the 220 grit recommended on the can. After my second coat if i get the same bubbles, will the 400 grit be enough to get rid of them?
400 grit might work with knocking down the bubbles. I’ve been surprised how well 400 grit smoothes surfaces down.
Excelente, thank you very much, i used your technique and it was wonderful
Glad it was helpful!
No...m
Thanks for this super video. You are an outstanding teacher!
Wow, thank you!
Very nice video. Should I sand between staining?
Thank you for watching! I do not sand in-between stain coats.
Hi! Will this techniques work with cabinets? I used the rustoleum cabinet transformations kit and the protective top coat leaves streaks and I hate it! Before I put it on the doors I wanted to know how to make those smooth and I came across your video.
Nice haa! 👍 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Very good. I wish I saw this video before I ruined my finish on my table top. I followed the instructions on the can and used a 220 grit sandpaper that took off some of my stain. Don’t know how to fix this without starting over. Can you help me⁉️❓
xrayme2x Oh nooooo! So sorry to hear about your table top. You most likely need to resand and restain. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 Hello. I also used 220 on my chair seats. I stopped on the second chair seat and came to youtube and found your video. I'll do as you suggest on the other two seats and table top. I think I'll now have to really sand down the first two seats and start over again on them.
how do you get the dust particles off the final coat. I am on my 5th coat every time it looks great but just does not feel smooth.
Good day,
Thank you for this detailed video, which is really a very major issue for final results.
I have a problem when using varnish, when I used furniture wax or water based, both dry so quickly making lumps!!!
Note: I varnish painted wood.
Thank you in advance for your reply and time.
Regards
Interesting.... the other day I used a tac cloth and my next laquer application had lots of small dry craters. Now wondering if it was wax residue blocking adhesion.
Interesting! Very much could have. That's the reason why I don't use tack cloths.
Will 220 grit be okay? That what I bought since that’s what it suggested on the can! I’m doing it on my kitchen cabinets
No. 220 grit is too rough. I don't know why they put that on the can. So many people have left comments that 220 grit has left scratches on their beautiful finishes. I would recommend 400-500 grit in between coats.
Do you use this same method of sanding and paper grit on the wood/stain prior to the first coat of poly? Or do you use a heavier hand and grit? Thanks!!
After staining I do not sand my last stained coat. After my stain has dried for more than 24 hours I then apply my first coat of poly.
Maybe to add a little , I vacuum and then use a microfiber cloth. That works well for me. Thanks for your tips. Going to go buy a brush to use on my shop vac. Thanks again.
Great idea!! I appreciate you adding those tips.
Any clue why it looks whitish when I began sanding the first coat of polycrylic? Will this go away after second coat? The dresser is painted a bluish grey color
Are you asking after your first coat has dried, then you do your hand sanding why does it look whitish? You might be seeing the dust. Make sure you clean that off before your next coat of Polycrylic. After you hand sand the surface does appear whitish.
Hi, I just found your channel today. Since I don’t have a shop vac, I was wondering if I could use an old cotton t-shirt to wipe in between?
I would be hesitant to advise using a t-shirt. It would probably leave little fibers behind. How about using a regular vacuum with the long attachment? Shop Vacs the smallest ones (3-5 gallon options) are super cheap. Worth the money to have one around. Less than $50.
I was always wondering about how to sand in between, glad to find finally someone explains it and shows it in real time! What brush would you recommend for apply a top coat? And what would you do when working on a really long or large surface? I always have trouble to blend as it dries up when I work in large surface... also my brush always gets dry and sticky after working for a while... Shall I wash my brush and restart to paint? I always ended up getting a lot of bubbles when I wet my brushes. Sorry for so many questions, I’m really excited to see your tutorials!, I saw your tutorial of applying the topcoat using a brush. What brush did you use? And what would you do when working on a really long or large surface, as it is hard to go from one end to the other in one go... also my brush always gets dry and sticky after working for a while... Shall I wash my brush and restart or spray? I always ended up getting a lot of bubbles after I get my brushes. Sorry for so many questions, I’m really excited to see your tutorials!
Store your brush in ziplock until the next coat. It really works and saves time
Thanks. My problem is that even when I’m doing one coat my brush dries... maybe because I’m too slow and I live in a very hot area😂
Would this same method work on existing hardwood floor? I want to add another layer of polyurethane to it
Hi,
I have just spray painted my kitchen. Currently it has a fantastic finish, except when I touch it, there is a rough texture. I want to make that smooth. I plan on spraying over the final color coat with a clear coat, to give it gloss and protect the paint. Watching your video, I believe sanding the way you did for the first and second coat and then applying a final clear coat, will that give me the smooth finish I want? the current top coat is a water based dark blue/navy color and is matt. I have not sanded this final top coat. Any advice please? Thank you
How many coats of paint did you paint the cabinets? I usually lightly sand in-between each coat of paint. I use 400-500 grit sandpaper wrapped around a felt block and feather sand the painted coats smooth. I also sand the last coat of paint BEFORE I apply my topcoat.
Hi Madeline,
I am using India ink for guitar build project.
I am grain filling the body, then coating the body in India ink.
I am hoping to achieve a really nice satin finish.
Any recommendations to achieve this?
Great tutorial!
While I haven't ever refinished a guitar before I do love the line of General Finishes for topcoats. You should research them. I especially love their oil based poly Arm-R-Seal. They do carry a satin finish in it.
Hi! I’ve been watching your videos about polycrylic to make sure I do my dining set correctly! I’m so glad you’re also showing how lightly to sand! Question, after I apply the paint which I have done to the top of the table and legs, do I sand THEN do poly, sand, poly, etc? I’m worried about the sander taking the paint off! Or one coat of poly then sand?
Brooke Loffredo Hi Brooke! Definitely don’t take a sander to do the inbetween sanding. You mentioned sander and I got nervous. Maybe it was just a typo on your part. Usually after my last coat of paint I DO NOT sand. Mainly because my last coat should be very smooth because I’ve sanded inbetween coats. So after your last coat of paint has dried completely then you apply the Polycrylic. I hope that helps.
Madeline Jean Antiques & Restoration, LLC Thank you! I meant the block with the sand paper :)
Madeline Jean Antiques & Restoration, LLC Do you put poly over latex paint, or are you guys only talking about chalk paint? I used latex paint on a paint storage shelf I built, but didn’t put any sealer on it.
Jennifer Ralston Yes poly over latex paint. Never used chalk paint before but chalk paint works when you don’t even sand !
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Tac cloth, from my own experience with using it, once you go over a piece to get all the dust from sanding, wait 1 hr before applying any finish. I made a mistake doing a trivet for my brother and on the 4th coat I only waited 30 minutes after using a tac cloth. The result was about the size of a 50 cent piece that was hazy and not as smooth. After that, I wait 1 hr minimum before I apply any top coat or final coat.
Hi Bethany,
Thank you for this video. I wish I had found it sooner :) Could you please tell me what grit should I use to sand between coats if the finish turned out streaky? There are visible strokes on the table top even though I wiped it with a grain. I used the GF top coat satin and I used a rag when applying this gel ( I think I might have wiped off too much of the topcoat and now the finish looks uneven. Would sanding and applying another coat or 2 help to solve this issue?
Thank you.
Joanna
I always apply my General Finishes topcoat with a 2 inch foam brush. It works great. Goes on easily and smoothly. I'm not familiar with applying it with a rag. That may be why you have an uneven finish. I would try using 400 grit first and see if that smooths the finish out. I'm not sure how uneven your finish is looking. If it's really uneven you may have to go with a lower grit.
Also try watching this tutorial I did on how to apply the poly. It might help: ruclips.net/video/IfFgZ-KKrLI/видео.html
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 Thank you so much for your prompt response.
I will try to sand it down gently and apply the top coat with a foam brush this time. I did watch your other video on how to apply poly. Very informative. Thanks again.
When I use polycrylic I get bubbles, not sure how to avoid this. I have used brush and foam brush... is it easier to use the spray version? And after I applied my first coat it was streaky. I just applied the second so I will see. I am also sanding after each coat.
I use a two inch foam brush with a nylon booty wrapped around the brush to prevent bubbles. Works like a charm! I have other videos showing this nylon booty method. You should check them out.
Thank you. That is awesome 👌 😊big help.
You’re welcome 😊
Hey madeline have u ever came across a milky finish I am doing some treads and I am using a satin polyurethane I thinned it with some mineral spirits my third coat came out milky I read online that petroleum jelly could fix prob so I did that and let it sit for 2 days I wiped them off today on some it actually worked and removed it and some are still milky looking I don’t know what to do now ?
Ma'an I wish I could give you some solid advice. What brand Poly did you use? Just curious.
Hi! I am doing poly on fan blades I gently sanded & white-washed twice (bc they ended up not being real wood, composite w/a woodsticker). I have to be really careful not to accidentally scratch the white washing off. Do you think it would be safe to do two coats of polycrylic before sanding the first time?
Let me add, I did watch both of your polycrylic videos this morning before I started ❤️
Hi Jessi! I'm hoping I"m understanding your question correctly....the fan blades are made of a composite wood correct? They had a woodsticker on them, that was removed correct? I'll be honest I have never applied Polycrylic to compostite wood before, I work only with real wood. I would think you would okay to apply two coats of the Polyctylic without sanding inbetween bc I get your fear of accidentally scratching it. Let me know how it works out. I'm curious....
Your videos are fantastic. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I need help 😩 I thought I was doing everything right but screwed up. I’m painting 2 end tables. Using satin latex paint. What I’ve done so far; I lightly sanded with 220 grit, applied 2 layers of bullseye 123 primer, applied 2 layers of paint. Applied 1 layer of polycrylic all wrong. First time using it. One table with a roller, can see roller marks. Tried a brush on other table and that looks worse. No bubbles but overlaps with texture. I was hoping that would all flatted out I guess 🤦🏻♀️. I tried lightly sanding again with 220, to try and flatten the raised areas, now I realize after watching this I did that all wrong too. I now have tiny spots where paint was sanded away down to the primer. Idk where to go from here. Do I sand and apply primer again and basically start over? Is that even how I’d do that to correct it? Do I go with a distressed look and keep going forward. I appreciate any and all feedback.
Oh boy! Sounds like you are in quite the pickle! Don't fret your project can be saved. I've been there trust me. It's how I learned. I would start over. When I say start over hand sand everything so it's nice and smooth all over. Apply primer, paint and forget the rollers. Try applying your polycrylic with a 2" foam brush with a nylon booty over it. I did another tutorial on that. I think you will have greater success with that method. Best of luck!
I'm working on a dining room table. I used Benjamin Moore Advance Akryd black paint (never again!). I'm trying to use a Polycrylic (Minwax) matte finish. I sanded that top coat of paint as you demonstrated (awesome video!), but I have terrible streaks now. Will the Polycrylic cover the streaks, or just enhance them? I don't know if I now need another coat of paint before the Polycrylic. I'd be ever so grateful for your response, after an afternoon of tears!
I have a few questions: did you sand your last coat of paint? You should NOT sand your last coat. Only in-between paint coats. Why don’t you like the Benjamin Moore Advance paint? I’m just curious. I’ve only painted with it one time.
@@madelinejeanantiquesrestor9074 You are so sweet for responding! I now understand that I shouldn't have sanded the top coat! :( A couple of bloggers recommended it before the polycrilic. You have to be so careful about who you listen to! So now I will complete the sanding and put on one more top coat, wait another 30 days, and then use 3 coats of polycrylic.
I'm just not happy with the paint. After it cured for over 30 days, I lightly dusted it with a clean white sock and accidently LIGHTLY ran my short fingernail across the table. It left a mark! Two coats of primer and three coats of Advance cured for 40+ days, and it was scratched! I just don't find it as durable as it claims. That's why I want to add the polycrylic. Hopefully it will be more durable, as it's a dining room table. Benjamin Moore told me I can't use polyurethane on it, so I'm going to try the Minwax Polycrylic.
Thank you, Bethany! You show things that no one else does....appreciate it!
You are so welcome!
If you had a piece of wood that you needed to stain the top and bottom of - would you stain them separately? Or together, then set it somewhere?
What do you set it on to let it dry?
Yes I stain separately. I stain one side, let it dry. Flip and do the other side. I have a laundry drying rack that I use with projects like these. It works amazing! It can handle multiple pieces of wood at one time.
Here's the link:
amzn.to/3nwxLtj
I am poly-ing a brand new wood exterior door. I think it will be tricky to get from the top of the door to the bottom in one nice swoop. Also the door is a 9 lite door-- and I can't really sand the beveled bits that go down to the windows. So for the 2nd coat, I will focus on all the flat surfaces.
Thanks for the tutorial. Do you only apply to the top or do you also do the sides and drawers as well?
I apply the poly topcoat only over areas I have sanded and stained.
Help please! So I watched your video after I applied my first coat of polycrylic and I did the opposite of all of your suggestions smh I waited a day and a half to finally come back to my dresser and face the dreaded sanding. It was going fine at first but it took a hard left and some of the paint came off while sanding. My dresser now looks like a farm style distressed wood instead of sleek white, what can I do at this point? Should I just change the look and leave it as is and just finish adding the other two coats of poly or can I still use my white chalk paint over it? The paint I used for this project was chalk paint and I did three coats on the bottom and four on the table top. I didn’t have 200 sand paper and used a 120 but with a very light touch. If I really don’t have a solution please let me know so I know how to mess up on the rest of the pieces so they can match the dresser. Thank you I’m advance to anyone who can help me
So the 120 grit sand paper is way too rough. You really need to get 400-500 grit sand paper. Regarding your current project and it's look right now farm style distressed vs. sleek white I guess it all depends what you ultimately want in the final finish. Can you fix your over-sanding? You can, but it will take some extra work and it all depends how many spots you over sanded.
Thank you Madeline. Amazon sends the order to Rockler who adds 7 for freight bringing the total to 21. I guess they last a long time though so it must be worth it.
You can also cut 3x6 blocks out of 1/2 mdf and glue your sand paper on there. A round over on the edges saves your hands.
After the last coat, do you buff with extra fine grit like 1000? Great video, thanks
I personally do not.
I use 3M sanding sponges (400-600 grit) or super fine 0000 steel wool between topcoats. The sanding sponges are great because they are washable and reusable and you don't have the problem of having to replace sandpaper on a sanding block.
Thank you so much for the reply... I use the sponges too.. Is there a way to apply the topcoat without going the way of the grain..? That is my main problem right now in that it is like 2 fans together and meeting in the middle in a v? I think I'm going to have to sand down two of the topcoat layers then try again.. thoughts?
@@shannonv8364 - I'm not exactly sure what you mean but if you need to apply the topcoat across the grain rather that with it I see no problem as long as you sand between coats in the same direction as you applied the poly.
@@simul8guy75 thank you I'll give it a try