One thing i keep in mind is that when you airdry and use mftowels togheter there are chances that you blow out hidden contamination from gaps etc that you later wipe your towel over and in worst case maring the paint. But if you cleaned the car very thoroughly in gaps with brushes you dont have to worry.
Easy additional bonus when using a blower: blow BEFORE wash and get debris out of nooks and crannies as long as it is not sticky and needs touching to remove. Wash process is easier!
@4:02 the bottom of the door was clearly still dirty when he wiped of it with a drying towel.... that's why air drying is far better than with towels. those missed bits that we find from time to time can ruin the finish so easily.
Not sure how that was missed, but nonetheless, the schedule is listed out on our website here: www.esotericcarcare.com/elite-detailer-academy-2-day-training-course/
I can't speak for either of those brands since we don't use them, but if you don't have a coated car, you could use similar product like quick detailers and such during the drying process. I think too many people however use this as a crutch, and then technique can drop off as a result, but it doesn't hurt. The other thing there to be careful of is not using too much because it can cause streaking, haziness, etc.
Hi. Alot of useful info in these videos to take in! I'm wondering does the silk dryer work just as good on new headlights as it does with drying the paint using the same method, or should i use a separate material for the headlights? I want to keep them as clear and mark free as possible from the start. Also, for washing the paint, do you recommend using the Gyeon glove, or the Elite sponge? Does dirtiness factor into which to use and when? Thank you from a new customer!
Thanks, Clint. We use the Silk Dryer on everything but wheels, really. The headlights are more scratch resistant than the paint itself, so no real worries on that. As for washing, I might use the Gyeon mitt on really dirty cars, and the sponge on everything else. I hope this helps!
Great video Todd, just an idea, would you be interested in making a video on the process required to apply a new ceramic/glass coating to a car after its original recommended life span has been reached? Cheers
Thanks for the video. I've been trying to come up with a combination of convenience, cost and sustainability for washing my car which is proving to be kind of complex. I was going to buy a deionization system, but my water is 485 ppm so I would be replacing the resin so often that it would get extremely expensive. My question is about what you said in the video about a "big" air compressor. Would a consumer-grade compressor work for the task of drying a car, or do you need a really big one?
@@swanamaker I wouldn't recommend that. The dirt and debris being sucked into the hose during the vacuum stage can stick on the inside of the hose, then be blown right back onto the surface when in blow-dry mode.
@@Esotericdetail Thanks, that's a good point. I would think having a second hose for blowing only could solve that issue. I just prefer multitaskers when possible. I'm mostly glad that I did my research on DI filters because my water is just too hard to make those worth the price.
If you just have access to drying towels, would you use one towel and keep wringing it out or do you use two? (one get 90% of the water, and a second to dry up any lingering spots/streaks)
ESOTERIC - Fine Auto Finishing My order is in. I had to get this towel too. 😊 I was hoping to also get the PA Cosmic Spritz but its out of stock. Will that be in stock soon? The PA High Gloss seems interesting also. I'm looking for the best in looks with a lot of hydrophobicity. I know the Cosmo Spritz is a little more durable but if I apply the High Gloss once a month I should be fine right? You say your personal preference is the Cosmo Spritz on top of the Miyabi/ISM combo. Is there a reason you prefer that instead of the High Gloss other than added durability? Thanks for all your help.
Filtered leaf blower really isn’t necessary. You’re always leaving 8-12 inches between the blower and the paint anyways so whatever dust is in the air that you pulled into the machine is also floating around between the nozzle and your paint anyways which you will end up blasting onto it.
One thing i keep in mind is that when you airdry and use mftowels togheter there are chances that you blow out hidden contamination from gaps etc that you later wipe your towel over and in worst case maring the paint. But if you cleaned the car very thoroughly in gaps with brushes you dont have to worry.
Happens to my son and I. We have had to learn each of the cars nooks and areas where dust and dirt collects and it doesn't flow away during wash.
Easy additional bonus when using a blower: blow BEFORE wash and get debris out of nooks and crannies as long as it is not sticky and needs touching to remove. Wash process is easier!
amazes me how many different parts there are to an explanation of simply drying the car. This was very informative Todd.
Thank you!
@4:02 the bottom of the door was clearly still dirty when he wiped of it with a drying towel.... that's why air drying is far better than with towels. those missed bits that we find from time to time can ruin the finish so easily.
Great video Todd. The Gyeon Silk Dryer is a great towel.
Thank you Mike!
One of my faves. Too bad I keep forgetting to buy more
great video as always. very informative. Thanks Todd
Thank you!
a few weeks back I inquired about the upcoming classes schedule for 2018 and have not heard anything back ( from the website)
Not sure how that was missed, but nonetheless, the schedule is listed out on our website here: www.esotericcarcare.com/elite-detailer-academy-2-day-training-course/
What are your thoughts on using drying aids like optimum or ammo hydrate as a lubricant for extra protection from scratching?
I can't speak for either of those brands since we don't use them, but if you don't have a coated car, you could use similar product like quick detailers and such during the drying process. I think too many people however use this as a crutch, and then technique can drop off as a result, but it doesn't hurt. The other thing there to be careful of is not using too much because it can cause streaking, haziness, etc.
Hi. Alot of useful info in these videos to take in! I'm wondering does the silk dryer work just as good on new headlights as it does with drying the paint using the same method, or should i use a separate material for the headlights? I want to keep them as clear and mark free as possible from the start.
Also, for washing the paint, do you recommend using the Gyeon glove, or the Elite sponge? Does dirtiness factor into which to use and when?
Thank you from a new customer!
Thanks, Clint. We use the Silk Dryer on everything but wheels, really. The headlights are more scratch resistant than the paint itself, so no real worries on that. As for washing, I might use the Gyeon mitt on really dirty cars, and the sponge on everything else. I hope this helps!
Great video Todd, just an idea, would you be interested in making a video on the process required to apply a new ceramic/glass coating to a car after its original recommended life span has been reached?
Cheers
Thanks Kevin. There wouldn't be much to that video however...re-polish, then apply coating! It's definitely something we'll keep on the radar, though.
I do both. Blow a majority of the water off. Then dry with a couple MF towels. I like using a drying agent for a little extra protection.
What’s a Good system for cleaning the water, inside a shop?
Thanks for the video. I've been trying to come up with a combination of convenience, cost and sustainability for washing my car which is proving to be kind of complex. I was going to buy a deionization system, but my water is 485 ppm so I would be replacing the resin so often that it would get extremely expensive. My question is about what you said in the video about a "big" air compressor. Would a consumer-grade compressor work for the task of drying a car, or do you need a really big one?
You'd be better off getting a Bigboi blower as it would be far more effective than an air compressor.
@@Esotericdetail Thank you. I have my eye on a combo blower/vac that I can use to clean the inside and dry the outside.
@@swanamaker I wouldn't recommend that. The dirt and debris being sucked into the hose during the vacuum stage can stick on the inside of the hose, then be blown right back onto the surface when in blow-dry mode.
@@Esotericdetail Thanks, that's a good point. I would think having a second hose for blowing only could solve that issue. I just prefer multitaskers when possible. I'm mostly glad that I did my research on DI filters because my water is just too hard to make those worth the price.
If you just have access to drying towels, would you use one towel and keep wringing it out or do you use two? (one get 90% of the water, and a second to dry up any lingering spots/streaks)
Most of the time we'll just use one towel and wring it out as necessary. Two is better, but one will suffice.
Great video Todd I like how your time. You go step by step on the brake down
Thank you Rob.
about air compressor how many gallons for the car wash business approximate 10 to 15 cars a day. maybe you you can help me?
If you're just talking about air drying needs, you'd be better off getting something dedicated for that like a Big Boi or a Metro Vac.
When will you guys be back in stock for the Kamikaze ISM? I want to do the Miyabi/ISM combo.
Should be soon...we're never out of it for very long! Thanks for your patience.
ESOTERIC - Fine Auto Finishing Thanks - waiting patiently...😁
Joe...it's actually back in stock as we received a shipment today!
Thanks for the update. I'm heading over now to order. Thanks. 👍
ESOTERIC - Fine Auto Finishing My order is in. I had to get this towel too. 😊 I was hoping to also get the PA Cosmic Spritz but its out of stock. Will that be in stock soon? The PA High Gloss seems interesting also. I'm looking for the best in looks with a lot of hydrophobicity. I know the Cosmo Spritz is a little more durable but if I apply the High Gloss once a month I should be fine right? You say your personal preference is the Cosmo Spritz on top of the Miyabi/ISM combo. Is there a reason you prefer that instead of the High Gloss other than added durability? Thanks for all your help.
Does this attachment go on pressure washer?
Filtered leaf blower really isn’t necessary. You’re always leaving 8-12 inches between the blower and the paint anyways so whatever dust is in the air that you pulled into the machine is also floating around between the nozzle and your paint anyways which you will end up blasting onto it.