Simple...IF you were to cause marring on the finish, it's less noticeable if you do it vertically than if it were horizontally. As you walk past a car and the sunshine catches a horizontal scratch, you will notice it the entire way across the panel. If it were vertical, then you'd only see it for a brief moment.
Another great tutorial. Todd, the detailing products and detailing paraphernalia that you used in this video. Is there a link on what you used and where to buy them. I want to make sure I'm using the right stuff for my car.
Thank you Todd for all the amazing videos I have picked up so many great tips! I have followed you for a very long time actually if I remember correctly the first video I watched of you was you in your home garage detail shop maybe 7, 8 even 9 years ago time sure passes quickly. I appreciate your attention to detail and hope to come to your class soon! I just ordered the MTM Hydro spray gun & foam cannon pro kit and a roll of the KAMIKAZE tape to try really look forward to gettign them both and will be buying more shop needs from you this year! Thank you again for all you do for the detailing community have a wondeful night. -Paul
Thanks Paul for the trip back in time! When I started this out in the garage of my house, I always planned to provide a high level of education to the detailing and car care communities, and have stuck with that the entire time. It's always a pleasure to help people along. I'm glad to hear that you've been enjoying the videos, and we certainly appreciate the businesses.
As a environmental engineer, specializing in aquatic environments, I still don’t comprehend the 2 bucket method with agitation on the grit guards. Btw, I drive a 2015 991.1 911. For instance in lakes or rivers where the velocity of water, due to rock formations etc... or think of it this way - a child repeatedly jumping into a pond - agitating the water, causes the sediment to reanimate itself into the water. Therefore becoming resuspended. The force of the agitation causes subsurface water currents that will force the free dirt/grit off of the bottom of the bucket. Hence, essentially redepositing on the wash mitt in the rinsing. Even repeating the same in the soapy bucket would do the same, with a reduced rate of sediment but nonetheless, sediment is sediment - hence why at the end of a two bucket wash (which I’ve experimented with) the wash bucket water is dirty by the end and there is sediment present at the bottom. You are definitely not the only place that advocates for a two bucket method but, as a scientist, I don’t think this method is as robust of a safe guard as the conventional wisdom contends. I definitely think a multiple wash mitt for heavier soiled washes are best, and touch-less pressure washer, foam cannon, air dryer (metro vac or McKee 37 air dryers) are best for in between washes (touching only required for the quick detailing spray or spray wax) - essentially a reduction in “touching” by 66% - two bucket method touching in washing, touching drying with waffle weave towel and microfibre towel touching in spray wax VS no touch foam cannon, no touch air drying and touching in spray wax. Isn’t less “touching” best?
When done properly, you should have little to no debris whatsoever in your wash bucket when using the Grit Guards. The baffles on the bottom side help to prevent the movement on the water, and subsequent lifting of debris. This isn't theory, but practical testing on thousands of cars in our shop over the years.
I understand about front to back on washing and drying but why up and down on the sides(doors) and not front to back as you would the hood,roof,and trunk? Please explain
IF you were to create any marring or scratching during your process, it's harder to see vertical scratches than it is horizontal ones. So if you created a long horizontal scratch (from front-to-back motion), the sun would catch it and you could see the entire scratch as you walk past it. If you did a scratch in a vertical pattern and walked past, the sun would only catch it very briefly, thus making it more difficult to see. That is my logic.
I'm a boat owner new car detailing. I'm pretty finicky about washing my boat. I have an '86 Chris Craft Constellation that was repainted about 10 years ago with aircraft quality Imron paint. Boat owners are pretty clear about avoiding pressure washers on their paint. Why is this a difference versus car owners?
Hello Mark, and thanks for getting in touch. Imron as you know is a very strong and durable paint, so I'm not sure why boat owners would be against using a pressure washer. You always want to maintain a safe distance away from the surface when pressure washing, so given this, I can't see why it would have a negative impact on marine finishes. Now, if you were to put the nozzle a few inches away from the surface, then you could easily get yourself into trouble. I hope this helps.
I think you see a combination of finishes in marinas, most are actually gelcoats, not the Imron I wrote you about. Owners with gelcoat are particularly concerned about pressure washing. The few of us who have Imron just pick up on the concerns and apply them to our boats. Its a huge expense to repaint a boat, probably $75-$80k for mine, so protect and extending the painted finish is a big deal. Looks like you are using a relatively low pressure anyway. Right?
That makes sense. You are correct in the pressure washers for autos. In the grand scheme of things, they are relatively low. Granted, when used improperly, they can peel your skin right off, but there are some out there that are far more powerful and dangerous. It also has a lot to do with the type of nozzle one is using. A fanned spray is good, whereas a sharp stream is not.
normally I would use a spray wax but in this case since I am stripping my paint to prep for Jescar Power I felt like using a spray wax would interfere with that process. I did just placed an order for the Bigboy BUDDI, hoping this this will do me good until you guys re-stock on the mini and Pro =) Thanks for all your Help Todd !
Awesome video! Quick Q - you demonstrated drying the door jambs towards the end, but at what point do you actually wash and clean them? Do you do that while washing the body panels of the vehicle, or afterwards completely separately?
Yes you could in that order...Miyabi base, ISM middle, Infinity top. You really don't need that much, and it won't give you 3x the protection. But yes, you could do that.
Sir ,I'm a big fan of you,I learned a lot from your videos. My question on washing is:- How often one should wash the car ,I mean a week ,a month ??does frequently washing a car makes some areas rusty in long run in a vehicle? plz reply I have many mixed answers on that.
Sure it will, unless the car has gone a tremendous amount of time between cleanings. You also want to use a pH neutral shampoo to preserve any protection you have on the car.
Hi todd sorry to reply to a video done some years ago now lol. I reside in the uk and over here 99% of detailers and enthusiasts use snowfoam or a citrus pre wash, the concept being to get as much dirt off prior to a contact wash. What i want to ask is, why don't yourselves and most of the u.s detailers use snowfoam or some sort of pre wash ? Now iam open minded and want your opinion on it, because if you don't use snowfoam here in the uk, you are pretty much ridiculed and classed as the devil almost. Thank you
We do use a foam gun here at the shop, and sell them as well to enthusiasts and professional detailers. This video was made for the masses as most people don't have pressure washers and foam cannon setups.
@@Esotericdetail thank you for the response, appreciate it. Right so you would suggest pre washing then ? As in using an actual pre wash product that you foam on, leave to dwell and rinse off, then go onto the contact wash. I have always pre washed, as its a very much done thing here in the uk, just from what i have seen alot in the u.s don't pre wash and see it as either pointless or damaging, matt moreman of obsessed garage being one of them. Anyway i appreciate your response and expert knowledge. Thank you Jason
@@jasonmennie9629 Unless it's exceptionally dirty, just foam it with the same soap you're using for your wash. And foaming / rinsing / then foaming again also isn't necessary in most cases. So for us most of the time, we rinse, foam, then go immediately into our wash, and rinse. Anything beyond that is a waste of time in most cases.
WHY not just use a new mitt for each panel instead of using the same mitt that no matter how much you agitate it in the rinse bucket will still have dirt on it?
Sure, you could do that, but at what gain / cost? Let's assume a good wash mitt is about $20. Multiply that by about 10 mitts and you have $200 worth of wash mitts in use every time you wash the car. Then let's look at the time involved in the maintenance of those mitts after each wash. There aren't many people who would go to that level for regular maintenance of their vehicle. When the technique is correct, you can easily and safely wash even a soft black car with the 2-bucket method and Grit Guards with very little, if any, marring. Even with a fully clean (new) wash mitt at every panel, you are still slightly rubbing dirt against the surface which can cause marring. This initial process is where your chances of marring the paint go up significantly. If you personally feel better about washing the car with a different mitt each panel, then that's absolutely fine. But for teaching the masses, it's neither necessary or practical. Solid washing and drying techniques and practices using this system are safe, effective, and proven.
You could if you are so inclined. However, 99.9% of people will have no desire to own/use a separate wash mitt for every single panel, and when done properly, this method works just fine. We use it to maintain black cars, without any induced marring.
I use around 6 -8 microfiber mits and believe it or not i purchased them at a cheap discount shop and paid $5.00 each. They are every bit as good as my $20 mits (no marring at all). I am OCD with my car and generally spend top dollar on everything car related.I rinse them out and machine wash with detergent and 1.5 teaspoons of quality white vinegar they come out SUPER SOFT. Agree not everyone will do this but just one swirl mark and i am SUPER UNHAPPY . Thanks Todd
You did it all wrong.. (didnt use a foam gun or cannon, went UP AND DOWN on the side panels you always move straight horizontal movements on the panels.) plus how many times did you say “high quality” 😂
We will have to agree to disagree on that one. Not every wants, needs, or uses a foam cannon, so that's a topic for another video. We have also been advocating, using, and teaching the method of up and down on the sides for many years now. IF you were to mar / scratch the finish during washing, a vertical scratch would be more difficult to detect than a horizontal one.
I really enjoy your videos, I have so much to learn.
What is the benefit of washing the vertical surfaces in a up and down motion?
Simple...IF you were to cause marring on the finish, it's less noticeable if you do it vertically than if it were horizontally. As you walk past a car and the sunshine catches a horizontal scratch, you will notice it the entire way across the panel. If it were vertical, then you'd only see it for a brief moment.
Another great tutorial. Todd, the detailing products and detailing paraphernalia that you used in this video. Is there a link on what you used and where to buy them. I want to make sure I'm using the right stuff for my car.
Thank you. All of the items are on our store at www.esotericcarcare.com
Thank you Todd for all the amazing videos I have picked up so many great tips! I have followed you for a very long time actually if I remember correctly the first video I watched of you was you in your home garage detail shop maybe 7, 8 even 9 years ago time sure passes quickly. I appreciate your attention to detail and hope to come to your class soon! I just ordered the MTM Hydro spray gun & foam cannon pro kit and a roll of the KAMIKAZE tape to try really look forward to gettign them both and will be buying more shop needs from you this year! Thank you again for all you do for the detailing community have a wondeful night. -Paul
Thanks Paul for the trip back in time! When I started this out in the garage of my house, I always planned to provide a high level of education to the detailing and car care communities, and have stuck with that the entire time. It's always a pleasure to help people along. I'm glad to hear that you've been enjoying the videos, and we certainly appreciate the businesses.
As a environmental engineer, specializing in aquatic environments, I still don’t comprehend the 2 bucket method with agitation on the grit guards. Btw, I drive a 2015 991.1 911.
For instance in lakes or rivers where the velocity of water, due to rock formations etc... or think of it this way - a child repeatedly jumping into a pond - agitating the water, causes the sediment to reanimate itself into the water. Therefore becoming resuspended. The force of the agitation causes subsurface water currents that will force the free dirt/grit off of the bottom of the bucket. Hence, essentially redepositing on the wash mitt in the rinsing.
Even repeating the same in the soapy bucket would do the same, with a reduced rate of sediment but nonetheless, sediment is sediment - hence why at the end of a two bucket wash (which I’ve experimented with) the wash bucket water is dirty by the end and there is sediment present at the bottom.
You are definitely not the only place that advocates for a two bucket method but, as a scientist, I don’t think this method is as robust of a safe guard as the conventional wisdom contends.
I definitely think a multiple wash mitt for heavier soiled washes are best, and touch-less pressure washer, foam cannon, air dryer (metro vac or McKee 37 air dryers) are best for in between washes (touching only required for the quick detailing spray or spray wax) - essentially a reduction in “touching” by 66% - two bucket method touching in washing, touching drying with waffle weave towel and microfibre towel touching in spray wax VS no touch foam cannon, no touch air drying and touching in spray wax.
Isn’t less “touching” best?
When done properly, you should have little to no debris whatsoever in your wash bucket when using the Grit Guards. The baffles on the bottom side help to prevent the movement on the water, and subsequent lifting of debris. This isn't theory, but practical testing on thousands of cars in our shop over the years.
I understand about front to back on washing and drying but why up and down on the sides(doors) and not front to back as you would the hood,roof,and trunk? Please explain
IF you were to create any marring or scratching during your process, it's harder to see vertical scratches than it is horizontal ones. So if you created a long horizontal scratch (from front-to-back motion), the sun would catch it and you could see the entire scratch as you walk past it. If you did a scratch in a vertical pattern and walked past, the sun would only catch it very briefly, thus making it more difficult to see. That is my logic.
@@Esotericdetail Thank you for the reply much appreciation for all that you do!
I'm a boat owner new car detailing. I'm pretty finicky about washing my boat. I have an '86 Chris Craft Constellation that was repainted about 10 years ago with aircraft quality Imron paint. Boat owners are pretty clear about avoiding pressure washers on their paint. Why is this a difference versus car owners?
Hello Mark, and thanks for getting in touch. Imron as you know is a very strong and durable paint, so I'm not sure why boat owners would be against using a pressure washer. You always want to maintain a safe distance away from the surface when pressure washing, so given this, I can't see why it would have a negative impact on marine finishes. Now, if you were to put the nozzle a few inches away from the surface, then you could easily get yourself into trouble. I hope this helps.
I think you see a combination of finishes in marinas, most are actually gelcoats, not the Imron I wrote you about. Owners with gelcoat are particularly concerned about pressure washing. The few of us who have Imron just pick up on the concerns and apply them to our boats. Its a huge expense to repaint a boat, probably $75-$80k for mine, so protect and extending the painted finish is a big deal. Looks like you are using a relatively low pressure anyway. Right?
That makes sense. You are correct in the pressure washers for autos. In the grand scheme of things, they are relatively low. Granted, when used improperly, they can peel your skin right off, but there are some out there that are far more powerful and dangerous. It also has a lot to do with the type of nozzle one is using. A fanned spray is good, whereas a sharp stream is not.
Great video Todd!
+Chicago Auto Pros Detail and Tint Thank you.
Hi Todd, what is your opinion on a pre-wash with snow foam before actually touching the paint with a wash mitt?
How often should I be spraying the quick detailer on my drying cloth? Every panel? Every 2 panels? Every time I squeeze the water out?
Usually just once every panel should suffice.
if you are going to lay a sealant or a wax on the paint what would you use as a drying aid instead of a detail spray ?
Blow drying is your best option! If you feel the need to use a "drying aid", then it could be a spray wax like something from the Polishangel lineup.
normally I would use a spray wax but in this case since I am stripping my paint to prep for Jescar Power I felt like using a spray wax would interfere with that process. I did just placed an order for the Bigboy BUDDI, hoping this this will do me good until you guys re-stock on the mini and Pro =) Thanks for all your Help Todd !
Awesome video! Quick Q - you demonstrated drying the door jambs towards the end, but at what point do you actually wash and clean them? Do you do that while washing the body panels of the vehicle, or afterwards completely separately?
Now I’m ready to wash my Ferrari
before applying Kamikaze Glass Coating ( Miyabi / ISM coat ) , can you used Gyeon Bathe+ ( Plus ) instead of Gyeon Bathe ??! ...
No you cannot. You don't want any kind of protectant or otherwise on the surface prior to coating.
+ESOTERIC - Fine Auto Finishing i see ... can you applied Kamikaze Infinity Wax as top / 3rd coat after Miyabi as 1st coat & ISM as 2nd coat ??! ...
Yes you could in that order...Miyabi base, ISM middle, Infinity top. You really don't need that much, and it won't give you 3x the protection. But yes, you could do that.
+ESOTERIC - Fine Auto Finishing for Iron & Tar remover , in what order to use it & how to apply it ??! ...
We would use Iron first, then Tar as necessary. You can find more information on our website at www.esotericcarcare.com
What do I use as drying aid on a coated car? I dont wanna use any spraywax / detailer. Or should i simply just soak the MF towel in water and dry it?
Excelent channel, I always want to know how to wash my car by myself.
Thank you, and be sure to subscribe as we are constantly adding new videos on detailing tools, products, and techniques.
By any chance do you know if ONR is safe to use as a quick detailer on ceramic Coated vehicles?
Your answers can be found in this video: ruclips.net/video/gTZF1nHoAIg/видео.html
@ESOTERIC - Fine Auto Finishing: Great video! For the quick detailer you use as lubricant, does Gyeon have a product for this?
They don't currently have anything, but you could always put just a drop or two of Gyeon Bathe in a bottle of distilled water and use that.
They have Gyeon Cure and have had for years. Diluted 1:1 it's perfect as a drying aid.
Is using a brush recommended?
Not on paint!
Amazing Channel! You deserve 10x more subs for the high quality amazing content. Best of luck to you.
Sir ,I'm a big fan of you,I learned a lot from your videos.
My question on washing is:-
How often one should wash the car ,I mean a week ,a month ??does frequently washing a car makes some areas rusty in long run in a vehicle?
plz reply I have many mixed answers on that.
Thank you. It's all personal preference. If you're doing it right, you won't hurt the car by washing it weekly.
Very very very good job..
Tyger from Italy
Thank you!
Getting a lot of hazing with the quick detailer? Excessive amounts
It's either excessive amounts, or the quick detailer you're using isn't up to par.
Cheap or old towel maybe?
why use a ph neutral soap that will not remove the traffic film on the paint?
Sure it will, unless the car has gone a tremendous amount of time between cleanings. You also want to use a pH neutral shampoo to preserve any protection you have on the car.
Wow. Great stuff Todd!
Thank you!
Is it safe to use one of those filtered auto blowers for drying?
Todd, do you recommend a foam gun to apply the soap instead of taking it out of the bucket?
+vacolorito A foam gun is always good, but we would still use the normal 2-bucket system at the same time.
Thanks for another informative and helpful video 👌
Hi todd sorry to reply to a video done some years ago now lol.
I reside in the uk and over here 99% of detailers and enthusiasts use snowfoam or a citrus pre wash, the concept being to get as much dirt off prior to a contact wash.
What i want to ask is, why don't yourselves and most of the u.s detailers use snowfoam or some sort of pre wash ?
Now iam open minded and want your opinion on it, because if you don't use snowfoam here in the uk, you are pretty much ridiculed and classed as the devil almost.
Thank you
We do use a foam gun here at the shop, and sell them as well to enthusiasts and professional detailers. This video was made for the masses as most people don't have pressure washers and foam cannon setups.
@@Esotericdetail thank you for the response, appreciate it.
Right so you would suggest pre washing then ? As in using an actual pre wash product that you foam on, leave to dwell and rinse off, then go onto the contact wash.
I have always pre washed, as its a very much done thing here in the uk, just from what i have seen alot in the u.s don't pre wash and see it as either pointless or damaging, matt moreman of obsessed garage being one of them.
Anyway i appreciate your response and expert knowledge.
Thank you
Jason
@@jasonmennie9629 Unless it's exceptionally dirty, just foam it with the same soap you're using for your wash. And foaming / rinsing / then foaming again also isn't necessary in most cases. So for us most of the time, we rinse, foam, then go immediately into our wash, and rinse. Anything beyond that is a waste of time in most cases.
@@Esotericdetail thank you for the response, love the channel and the information you provide on it.
WHY not just use a new mitt for each panel instead of using the same mitt that no matter how much you agitate it in the rinse bucket will still have dirt on it?
Sure, you could do that, but at what gain / cost? Let's assume a good wash mitt is about $20. Multiply that by about 10 mitts and you have $200 worth of wash mitts in use every time you wash the car. Then let's look at the time involved in the maintenance of those mitts after each wash. There aren't many people who would go to that level for regular maintenance of their vehicle. When the technique is correct, you can easily and safely wash even a soft black car with the 2-bucket method and Grit Guards with very little, if any, marring. Even with a fully clean (new) wash mitt at every panel, you are still slightly rubbing dirt against the surface which can cause marring. This initial process is where your chances of marring the paint go up significantly. If you personally feel better about washing the car with a different mitt each panel, then that's absolutely fine. But for teaching the masses, it's neither necessary or practical. Solid washing and drying techniques and practices using this system are safe, effective, and proven.
But how much is correcting the swirls that will eventually get in the paint? I think you could use 5 mitts and get a super safe wash.
You could if you are so inclined. However, 99.9% of people will have no desire to own/use a separate wash mitt for every single panel, and when done properly, this method works just fine. We use it to maintain black cars, without any induced marring.
I use around 6 -8 microfiber mits and believe it or not i purchased them at a cheap discount shop and paid $5.00 each. They are every bit as good as my $20 mits (no marring at all). I am OCD with my car and generally spend top dollar on everything car related.I rinse them out and machine wash with detergent and 1.5 teaspoons of quality white vinegar they come out SUPER SOFT. Agree not everyone will do this but just one swirl mark and i am SUPER UNHAPPY . Thanks Todd
@@Esotericdetail absolutely correct...
Good video.
Thank you.
Great stuff!
Thank you Steve!
SUPER LIKE !!!
Glad you liked it!
good very
Thank you.
You did it all wrong.. (didnt use a foam gun or cannon, went UP AND DOWN on the side panels you always move straight horizontal movements on the panels.) plus how many times did you say “high quality” 😂
We will have to agree to disagree on that one. Not every wants, needs, or uses a foam cannon, so that's a topic for another video. We have also been advocating, using, and teaching the method of up and down on the sides for many years now. IF you were to mar / scratch the finish during washing, a vertical scratch would be more difficult to detect than a horizontal one.