I appreciate that you are informing the general public what effect clay actually has on a finish. I have the same philosophy, if you aren't going to machine polish then you MUST stick to chemical decontamination only!
Thank you! That's definitely one of our differentiators...we educate based on what is right, and not just based off of sales. We actually do this on a daily basis so our information is based off of experience, and not on theory.
I can’t rave enough about the use of Gyeon Iron/ Gyeon Tar combo for the decontamination process and sometimes there’s not a need to clay afterwords. But both methods when used creates the penultimate canvas for polishing.
This is the first video I’ve seen from you and I’m impressed!! I like the honesty about clay barring. I look forward to watching more of your vidoes in the future. Thanks for the good info!!
As a professional detailer, unless I misinterpreted your message, I have to say I disagree with some of your points. It is true that clay is pretty much a micro-abrasive and will leave fine scratches on paint, however, unless you're detailing a show car, you will be handed cars that are already covered in scratches with a customer wanting it to be cleaned up and sealed. You can purchase more or less abrasive clay bars and you aren't supposed to clay a vehicles paint often either. Clay is currently the best tool that I know of for paint decontamination-better than iron-x and what not. They just aren't good enough yet to replace clay all together. If you're a day to day driver and just want to keep the car tidy, just clay it once in a while and wash the car regularly, getting those easily missed spots like wheelwells and in between panels and what not. Throw a good sealent, like C2V3 from gtechniq on it so you only have to put a coating on the paint once every 8 months, and avoid leaving it in direct sunlight. If it's a show car, garage it and this guys advice makes a lot more sense for, but don't constantly polish it or there wont be paint to polish sooner or later lol.
If a car is that beat up that clay marring won't matter, is that really a candidate for somebody looking for long term sealing? If a car is in that rough of condition, and they just happen to want a higher level of service that doesn't include paint correction, then by all means...clay away. But unless it is in rough condition, it would be irresponsible for us as professional detailers to scratch up the finish in the interest of making the paint "smooth".
ESOTERIC claying is done With the intention of Decontaminating the paint, With smoothing being a side effect. Very rarely am I handed a vehicle with little to no scratches, and C2V3 is a great sealent for its price and performance. I think you make excellent points and we both go for a different customer demographic. I’m handed a wide range of cars, some being destroyed with the need of a new clear coat, and some directly off the lot. I am on your side with clay when it comes to avoiding it when you can, but here in Central Oregon, the cars get pretty filthy pretty quickly and my job is to get a car clean and protected. To make it clear as well, I do know when to suggest paint correction and always cut and polish paint before applying any sort of ceramic.
@@lukefernandez3492 Big game changer for me was to use Auto Fanatic's Secret Weapon with a Lake Country orange pad last weekend on my car's decent paintwork. First polish in 18k miles (19 months) . I use a fall-out remover twice a year. Fusso Coat as base sealant and BSD as drying aid. Moral of the story, Secret Weapon cleaned and really enhanced the paint and no claying was needed! The paint felt amazing! So I'd save claying to heavily contaminated paint if you have something like Secret Weapon in your arsenal.
Everytime you wax your car should you do the Iron remover and clay bar to get the paint perfect to wax or should you just do it once in a while every time you wax your car?
NEVER use clay unless you are machine polishing your car afterwards. Using an Iron remover should only be needed a time or two per year. Then simply wax as needed.
@@Esotericdetail so if your car is outside all the time, how do you get all the containment’s out of your paint work if you’re only doing the iron remove once every year?
@@kykypenn You don't. But I'd much rather have paint with some light contamination, than a smooth finish that is filled with marring and scratches from using clay.
What does a car cover do to a finish? I have a new ZO6, and try to keep it clean. But I may drive it, and notice when I come back, a layer of dust. Any issue with putting on my GM car cover if dust on the exterior? (I'm talking a small amount of dust, not a car that hasn't been washed in 6 months. I try to wash mine twice a month when I'm actively driving it.) You guys ever think about getting into the car cover business? All those measuring devices you use for PPF, you would think you could team with Gyeon and come up with a material that would work really well and custom make them...just a thought!!
Thanks Sean. Well, my opinion is do not put a cover on it if it has been driven. Road dust / debris can be abrasive (which is why you don't "wipe down" a car when you get it to a show), and when you slide on the cover, you're grinding any of that onto the surface. Then, it sticks in the cover and continues to get even more abrasive every time you use it. The best way would be to use a flat piece of material, and not the pre-fitted ones. This way you could at least roll it on and off the surface without ever having to stretch it into place. This might not be the answer that you were looking for, but hopefully it helps.
New to your channel and I'm really learning a lot of useful information! I'm still pretty new to all of this and rather enjoy it as an enthusiast. So, I did a full paint prep (strip wash, clay, polish) before putting on Chemical Guys Hydrocharge Ceramic Coating back in April. I'm just looking for clarity on my choice of protection and how to maintain. Is the product I used from CG's a true ceramic coating? I'm guessing that it's probably not since their effective durability isn't going to hold up for 2-3 years like a true coating. Also, if I feel the need to do a maintenance chemical decontamination, must I reapply anything such as a topper/booster or should I only chemically decon when I'm ready to apply paint protection (sealant, wax or coating)? My vehicle is garage-kept at home and used to drive back and forth to work, but I like to keep it spotless at all times.
Thank you for this video. It was very enlightening. I do not own a electric polisher and I have a quad cab pick up so what chemicals should I use to prep before I do the sink grow kit and will I be able to use three coats of the mobs With what comes in the kit. The truck has new paint just over a year old with no wax on it. I’d like to know what steps to take before applying the coding. Thank you
No it will not. You need to either use a water spot remover if they are still on the surface, or if they've sat long enough to etch into the finish, then you'll need to machine polish them out.
Hi I know this is an old video, but my step dad keeps insisting to use only a compound for the decontamination process before waxing my car. I’ve researched that compounding is similar to polishing as they are both abrasive, so I’m scared it will leave marks. I’m thinking I should just use Iron as recommended because we don’t have a machine, but he insists on the latter process. How safe is this for my car?
If you have to polish after using a synthetic clay pad/towel , would it be better to purchase a medium grade to make the job quicker and possibly better ? Thanks ! Love Your Channel 😎
If you're doing it on your own car, you might as well get a medium one. Any marring you cause in the finish isn't going to be as bad as what you're trying to correct anyways. Thanks!
Does the iron remover have any negative effects on coatings? I understand this process of paint contamination removal should be done before a coating is installed but I was just curious in the case this product may be needed in the future
It shouldn't, as it's pH neutral, however since there's no way a manufacturer could test it with every single coating on the market, it's always best to play it safe. For me, I'd limit it to just once per year and you should be fine.
Hey, I'm a DIY'er and have detailed my vehicles in the past but probably never did it correctly. I am interested in using the chemical iron decontamination process. So does the chem product actually dissolve the iron particles? Or does it neutralize it only ( video @ 4:34) and after neutralization I need to mechanically remove the particles? Thanks for the video information, and especially the tip on clay bar use.
If you have the ability to machine polish, then you should do chemical decontamination, followed by mechanical decontamination. If you do not have the ability to machine polish, then simply do your chemical decon.
Hi! Very usefull videos and enlighting information. I have a new car and waxed it right second day after delivery (end of September). Now I'm wondering what should be the preparation for next wax that I thinking to do it during Spring (March/April). There will still be spots/traces from first wax that I need to remove before waxing? Any specific steps to be done before? Thanks!
Hi, there, Thanks to your channel. I've learned a lot of knowledge from you. One quick question: what if chemical decontamination still doesn't work well with tough iron rust or something else? In this case, is claying the only one way to solve it or any suggestions?
Hi Todd. I’m trying to choose detailing products that are as environmentally sensitive as possible. I know Iron X stinks, but do you have any thoughts/info re: its toxicity? Thx
Is it safe to clay a ceramic coated car as part of a yearly decontamination wash (after using a fallout remover)? Or should you not clay a ceramic coated car at all as it may cause marring?
I have some crunchy feeling on the surface of my 15’ Cayman GTS. I’ve been maintaining it with wax and wash very consistently but in 18mths I have never clayed it. It still looks great it just has that crunchy feel. I don’t feel comfortable polishing yet so should I just hit it with some gyeon iron and re-wax it?
That's what I would do! As I stated in the video, I'd much rather have good looking paint that is crunchy, than scratched / marred paint (from mechanical decontamination) that is smooth.
Tod, If I used a surface prep, wax and degreaser, like Duplicolor or some other brand, do I still need to use an iron remover ? If so which should Iof these 2 should I use first ? Thank you
Is there anything special that I need for washing a car that hasn't been washed in about six months? Is there anything special that I need to use to deep clean the paint for example iron remover? Is tar remover necessary? I don't want to clay or polish the car
It depends on what conditions you may have with the paint. At the very least, I'd do a thorough Gyeon Iron decontamination as part of the process. Then once everything is clean, you can inspect for tar and treat that accordingly with Gyeon Tar. I hope this helps!
@@Esotericdetail thanks Does 'gyeon waterspot' tackle tar even if it's weak at doing it? Or does a 'tar remover' remove water spots? I'm thinking of using only one of these
@@Esotericdetail Thank you so much for your help you are amazing you helped me so much in my journey. I didn't know a simple washing and maintaining my personal car properly is so complicated been at this for months trying to learn the basics. If i apply a Sio2 sealant, how many microfibres do i need to do one layer of coating around the car including buffing microfibres? Also do Sio2 sealants harden on microfibre even after properly washing them? i dont want to micro scratch the car
Where does chemical decontamination fall into the maintenance of a coated car? Just passed one year mark with Miyabi/ISM coated vehicle, pretty much still performing and looking as good as when applied; any decon needed, perhaps next Spring after it's gone through it's 2nd winter? Does one ever need to chemically decon a coated vehicle and if so, does it diminish the coating in any way? Thanks
I know that you maintain your cars the way they're supposed to, so there's a good chance you won't have to do much, if any. After a regular spring cleanup, I'd inspect it to see if it feels "crunchy". If so, then I'd hit it with Gyeon Iron. Since it's pH neutral, it shouldn't have an adverse affect on the coating, but I always prefer to go the safe route.
Yes, you can easily use an iron remover on a coating with no impact to the longevity of the coating. I would suggest then using a good wash like CarPro Reset and even a coating booster along the way to help clean the surface and ensure you maximize the hydrophobic properties afterwards. There are plenty of products that match the brands of coatings out there if you are inclined to match brands.
I'm a bit confused by the suggestion to not chemically decontaminate unless doing paint correction/polishing. My thinking is that when you scrub your wax or sealant and buff it up afterwards you are possibly lifting up the contaminants that are left after the chemical decontamination and possibly causing marring or scratching with that. Does claying cause much more surface scratching/marring compared to possibly slightly contaminated (due to not mechanically decontaminating) surface waxing.
We say to not mechanically decontaminate without polishing. You're not scrubbing with wax or sealant...you're simply laying on a thin coat. So really, your chances of marring are extremely remote. The chances of marring and scratching by claying (without polishing) are 100%!
I appreciate that you are informing the general public what effect clay actually has on a finish. I have the same philosophy, if you aren't going to machine polish then you MUST stick to chemical decontamination only!
Thank you! That's definitely one of our differentiators...we educate based on what is right, and not just based off of sales. We actually do this on a daily basis so our information is based off of experience, and not on theory.
@@Esotericdetail Correct approach...
Great explanation from a great teacher. I hope to join your Esoteric Elite Detailers Academy one day.
Thank you Joe...glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks! The explanation for why wash and wax shouldn’t include clay I needed, all while I ate my breakfast
Everything you say makes perfect sense. Thanks for sharing such valuable information with us. Great video.
I can’t rave enough about the use of Gyeon Iron/ Gyeon Tar combo for the decontamination process and sometimes there’s not a need to clay afterwords. But both methods when used creates the penultimate canvas for polishing.
This is the first video I’ve seen from you and I’m impressed!! I like the honesty about clay barring. I look forward to watching more of your vidoes in the future.
Thanks for the good info!!
Thank you, and glad you liked it!
Well done Todd, I did learn something on this vid and it did not take you 20 min to tell us. New Subscriber for about 2 weeks and I like your vids.
Thank you, and welcome to our channel! We try to cut through the fluff and the hype, and cut to what's really important.
Thanks Todd.
Great video Todd. I learned a lot.
Thanks as always!!
Nice job Todd!
Thank you John!
Nice to see Matt at 3.00
great video Todd !!! I learned a lot.
As a professional detailer, unless I misinterpreted your message, I have to say I disagree with some of your points. It is true that clay is pretty much a micro-abrasive and will leave fine scratches on paint, however, unless you're detailing a show car, you will be handed cars that are already covered in scratches with a customer wanting it to be cleaned up and sealed. You can purchase more or less abrasive clay bars and you aren't supposed to clay a vehicles paint often either. Clay is currently the best tool that I know of for paint decontamination-better than iron-x and what not. They just aren't good enough yet to replace clay all together. If you're a day to day driver and just want to keep the car tidy, just clay it once in a while and wash the car regularly, getting those easily missed spots like wheelwells and in between panels and what not. Throw a good sealent, like C2V3 from gtechniq on it so you only have to put a coating on the paint once every 8 months, and avoid leaving it in direct sunlight. If it's a show car, garage it and this guys advice makes a lot more sense for, but don't constantly polish it or there wont be paint to polish sooner or later lol.
If a car is that beat up that clay marring won't matter, is that really a candidate for somebody looking for long term sealing? If a car is in that rough of condition, and they just happen to want a higher level of service that doesn't include paint correction, then by all means...clay away. But unless it is in rough condition, it would be irresponsible for us as professional detailers to scratch up the finish in the interest of making the paint "smooth".
ESOTERIC claying is done With the intention of Decontaminating the paint, With smoothing being a side effect. Very rarely am I handed a vehicle with little to no scratches, and C2V3 is a great sealent for its price and performance. I think you make excellent points and we both go for a different customer demographic. I’m handed a wide range of cars, some being destroyed with the need of a new clear coat, and some directly off the lot. I am on your side with clay when it comes to avoiding it when you can, but here in Central Oregon, the cars get pretty filthy pretty quickly and my job is to get a car clean and protected. To make it clear as well, I do know when to suggest paint correction and always cut and polish paint before applying any sort of ceramic.
@@lukefernandez3492 Big game changer for me was to use Auto Fanatic's Secret Weapon with a Lake Country orange pad last weekend on my car's decent paintwork. First polish in 18k miles (19 months) . I use a fall-out remover twice a year. Fusso Coat as base sealant and BSD as drying aid. Moral of the story, Secret Weapon cleaned and really enhanced the paint and no claying was needed! The paint felt amazing! So I'd save claying to heavily contaminated paint if you have something like Secret Weapon in your arsenal.
Thank you.
Everytime you wax your car should you do the Iron remover and clay bar to get the paint perfect to wax or should you just do it once in a while every time you wax your car?
NEVER use clay unless you are machine polishing your car afterwards. Using an Iron remover should only be needed a time or two per year. Then simply wax as needed.
@@Esotericdetail so if your car is outside all the time, how do you get all the containment’s out of your paint work if you’re only doing the iron remove once every year?
@@kykypenn You don't. But I'd much rather have paint with some light contamination, than a smooth finish that is filled with marring and scratches from using clay.
How would you go about decontaminating a ceramic coating then? Would you ever clay or polish a ceramic coating?
What does a car cover do to a finish? I have a new ZO6, and try to keep it clean. But I may drive it, and notice when I come back, a layer of dust. Any issue with putting on my GM car cover if dust on the exterior? (I'm talking a small amount of dust, not a car that hasn't been washed in 6 months. I try to wash mine twice a month when I'm actively driving it.) You guys ever think about getting into the car cover business? All those measuring devices you use for PPF, you would think you could team with Gyeon and come up with a material that would work really well and custom make them...just a thought!!
Thanks Sean. Well, my opinion is do not put a cover on it if it has been driven. Road dust / debris can be abrasive (which is why you don't "wipe down" a car when you get it to a show), and when you slide on the cover, you're grinding any of that onto the surface. Then, it sticks in the cover and continues to get even more abrasive every time you use it. The best way would be to use a flat piece of material, and not the pre-fitted ones. This way you could at least roll it on and off the surface without ever having to stretch it into place. This might not be the answer that you were looking for, but hopefully it helps.
New to your channel and I'm really learning a lot of useful information! I'm still pretty new to all of this and rather enjoy it as an enthusiast. So, I did a full paint prep (strip wash, clay, polish) before putting on Chemical Guys Hydrocharge Ceramic Coating back in April. I'm just looking for clarity on my choice of protection and how to maintain. Is the product I used from CG's a true ceramic coating? I'm guessing that it's probably not since their effective durability isn't going to hold up for 2-3 years like a true coating. Also, if I feel the need to do a maintenance chemical decontamination, must I reapply anything such as a topper/booster or should I only chemically decon when I'm ready to apply paint protection (sealant, wax or coating)? My vehicle is garage-kept at home and used to drive back and forth to work, but I like to keep it spotless at all times.
Thank you for this video. It was very enlightening. I do not own a electric polisher and I have a quad cab pick up so what chemicals should I use to prep before I do the sink grow kit and will I be able to use three coats of the mobs With what comes in the kit. The truck has new paint just over a year old with no wax on it. I’d like to know what steps to take before applying the coding. Thank you
Thanks. Wash. Use Gyeon Iron. Rinse. Dry. Use Gyeon Prep. Apply coating. You will not get 3 coats of MOHS...probably just 2.
ESOTERIC - Fine Auto Finishing Will the prep or the iron remove water spots. Again thank you
No it will not. You need to either use a water spot remover if they are still on the surface, or if they've sat long enough to etch into the finish, then you'll need to machine polish them out.
Hi I know this is an old video, but my step dad keeps insisting to use only a compound for the decontamination process before waxing my car. I’ve researched that compounding is similar to polishing as they are both abrasive, so I’m scared it will leave marks. I’m thinking I should just use Iron as recommended because we don’t have a machine, but he insists on the latter process. How safe is this for my car?
You will mar the finish with a compound by hand...don't do it.
@@Esotericdetail Thank you for the fast reply! I figured that’d be the case
If you have to polish after using a synthetic clay pad/towel , would it be better to purchase a medium grade to make the job quicker and possibly better ? Thanks ! Love Your Channel 😎
If you're doing it on your own car, you might as well get a medium one. Any marring you cause in the finish isn't going to be as bad as what you're trying to correct anyways. Thanks!
Does the iron remover have any negative effects on coatings? I understand this process of paint contamination removal should be done before a coating is installed but I was just curious in the case this product may be needed in the future
It shouldn't, as it's pH neutral, however since there's no way a manufacturer could test it with every single coating on the market, it's always best to play it safe. For me, I'd limit it to just once per year and you should be fine.
Hey, I'm a DIY'er and have detailed my vehicles in the past but probably never did it correctly. I am interested in using the chemical iron decontamination process. So does the chem product actually dissolve the iron particles? Or does it neutralize it only ( video @ 4:34) and after neutralization I need to mechanically remove the particles? Thanks for the video information, and especially the tip on clay bar use.
If you have the ability to machine polish, then you should do chemical decontamination, followed by mechanical decontamination. If you do not have the ability to machine polish, then simply do your chemical decon.
Hi!
Very usefull videos and enlighting information.
I have a new car and waxed it right second day after delivery (end of September).
Now I'm wondering what should be the preparation for next wax that I thinking to do it during Spring (March/April).
There will still be spots/traces from first wax that I need to remove before waxing? Any specific steps to be done before?
Thanks!
Your wax will be long gone by that time. I'd just do a thorough wash, chemical decontamination, and then apply your fresh wax as needed.
@@Esotericdetail Thanks!
Hi, there, Thanks to your channel. I've learned a lot of knowledge from you.
One quick question: what if chemical decontamination still doesn't work well with tough iron rust or something else?
In this case, is claying the only one way to solve it or any suggestions?
It's OK to leave "stuff" on the surface if the alternative means scratching and / or marring.
Hi Todd. I’m trying to choose detailing products that are as environmentally sensitive as possible. I know Iron X stinks, but do you have any thoughts/info re: its toxicity? Thx
Is it acceptable to wax the vehicle after the chemical decontamination?
Absolutely...as long as it isn't a coated vehicle.
Is it safe to clay a ceramic coated car as part of a yearly decontamination wash (after using a fallout remover)? Or should you not clay a ceramic coated car at all as it may cause marring?
NEVER clay a car without polishing afterwards, as you WILL scratch the surface...coated or otherwise.
I have some crunchy feeling on the surface of my 15’ Cayman GTS. I’ve been maintaining it with wax and wash very consistently but in 18mths I have never clayed it. It still looks great it just has that crunchy feel. I don’t feel comfortable polishing yet so should I just hit it with some gyeon iron and re-wax it?
That's what I would do! As I stated in the video, I'd much rather have good looking paint that is crunchy, than scratched / marred paint (from mechanical decontamination) that is smooth.
Tod, If I used a surface prep, wax and degreaser, like Duplicolor or some other brand, do I still need to use an iron remover ? If so which
should Iof these 2 should I use first ? Thank you
Yes, I would use the iron remover first!
chemical decontamination will not hurt the paint and the matte black finish of the wheels?
When used as directed, it will not.
@@Esotericdetail
is there any special instructions? coz til now im afraid to use chem decon.. but I think its safer from scratching your car
Watch this video: ruclips.net/video/wvbfPyASTH0/видео.html
Is there anything special that I need for washing a car that hasn't been washed in about six months?
Is there anything special that I need to use to deep clean the paint for example iron remover? Is tar remover necessary?
I don't want to clay or polish the car
It depends on what conditions you may have with the paint. At the very least, I'd do a thorough Gyeon Iron decontamination as part of the process. Then once everything is clean, you can inspect for tar and treat that accordingly with Gyeon Tar. I hope this helps!
@@Esotericdetail thanks
Does 'gyeon waterspot' tackle tar even if it's weak at doing it?
Or does a 'tar remover' remove water spots?
I'm thinking of using only one of these
@@r.k862 They are not interchangeable.
@@Esotericdetail Thank you so much for your help you are amazing you helped me so much in my journey. I didn't know a simple washing and maintaining my personal car properly is so complicated been at this for months trying to learn the basics.
If i apply a Sio2 sealant, how many microfibres do i need to do one layer of coating around the car including buffing microfibres?
Also do Sio2 sealants harden on microfibre even after properly washing them? i dont want to micro scratch the car
If I buy the big 4000 ml container can we also purchase empty Iron spray bottles?
They are not made available that way. You'd just want to get a chemical resistant spray bottle to put it in.
Can you apply the Iron remover to the pain like a fallout?
Yes, Gyeon Iron is used for paint as well.
Where does chemical decontamination fall into the maintenance of a coated car? Just passed one year mark with Miyabi/ISM coated vehicle, pretty much still performing and looking as good as when applied; any decon needed, perhaps next Spring after it's gone through it's 2nd winter? Does one ever need to chemically decon a coated vehicle and if so, does it diminish the coating in any way? Thanks
I know that you maintain your cars the way they're supposed to, so there's a good chance you won't have to do much, if any. After a regular spring cleanup, I'd inspect it to see if it feels "crunchy". If so, then I'd hit it with Gyeon Iron. Since it's pH neutral, it shouldn't have an adverse affect on the coating, but I always prefer to go the safe route.
Yes, you can easily use an iron remover on a coating with no impact to the longevity of the coating. I would suggest then using a good wash like CarPro Reset and even a coating booster along the way to help clean the surface and ensure you maximize the hydrophobic properties afterwards. There are plenty of products that match the brands of coatings out there if you are inclined to match brands.
Is it safe to use chemical decon on a ceramic coated vehicle?
For the most part, yes. With a coated car, I'd still hit it with Gyeon Iron probably twice per year.
hi there can i use any chemical decon on my paint?
Yes, that's what this video addresses. Use something that is designed for this purpose like Gyeon Iron.
thanks a lot! often see marring when i clay black paint. I used mothers clay2.0
You should watch this video: ruclips.net/video/lgLGmBr85t4/видео.html
I'm a bit confused by the suggestion to not chemically decontaminate unless doing paint correction/polishing. My thinking is that when you scrub your wax or sealant and buff it up afterwards you are possibly lifting up the contaminants that are left after the chemical decontamination and possibly causing marring or scratching with that. Does claying cause much more surface scratching/marring compared to possibly slightly contaminated (due to not mechanically decontaminating) surface waxing.
We say to not mechanically decontaminate without polishing. You're not scrubbing with wax or sealant...you're simply laying on a thin coat. So really, your chances of marring are extremely remote. The chances of marring and scratching by claying (without polishing) are 100%!
Thank you for the reply!
Do you recommend using the disc by hand or machine? By the way excellent video as usual!
Thank you. We prefer using them by hand...quicker, easier, and no worries of dragging an electric cord around on a wet area.
Can you use Ironx on a Kamikaze coated car?
Yes you can.
Should this iron remover spray be used before or after wash and when the vehicle is damp or dry?
It doesn't really matter. We typically use it before washing, and after it has been rinsed.