MotorCity Mechanic - I am amazed that you do this level of instruction for common folk like me. I have a 132k 2012 Chrysler T&C and used your videos to replace all of the lifters, rockers, a camshaft, plugs, and oil cooler (metal replacement). The coil boots were ok. It worked perfectly! The engine is now quiet and powerful and feels like new. My mechanic wouldn't even touch it, said he would be willing to swap engines with a recycled engine, but not replace the above. I greatly appreciate the assistance, please keep making great videos. Lunch is on me.👏
I never understand why techs won’t work I them. There are over 12,000,000 on the road and in a lot of Chrysler videos. As you saw….it can be done, just need to take your time. Personally I rather do this then an engine
@stevenstewart2898 You can do it. My van is still running great. Like he said, take your time, do a step at a time. I tag my connections, write every step down as I did it. Came back together perfectly. Good luck, post your results. Thank again @MotorCityMechanic
This is like 3.6 Pentastar for dummies and that’s a great compliment as you made it so easy to fully understand how to do a very intricate job for most. I have mechanical skills, but for anyone just learning you’re the perfect teacher. Thanks again 🎉🎉🎉
I agree with you but I believe it should be: Simple Pentastar Repair for the Poor Dummy Owner. Brought to by the Dummies who Engineered and Designed a literal ticking time 💣 of an engine
Just knocked this job out on my 2013 Durango. Thank you so much for the step by step. These are the most thorough videos (part 1 & 2) for this repair that I found. 👍
Caution, I found loose oil galley plugs, check these upon disassembly. Between the cylinder head and the timing chain and gear, there are two oil galley plugs (bolts). These oil galley plugs are threaded and have a 13 mm head. On bank two at 140K miles, I found both bolts loose and working their way out. As a long retired engine builder, I found this to be an outstanding video and very helpful. Attention to detail is paramount and this guy has it.
I'm going through extended warranty for a failed rocker that ate into my came on driver side inner cam. Checking those oil galleys bolts tomorrow. If they are loose, can you just blue lock tite and torque them down? What torque?
Excellent video. Two CRITICAL steps that weren’t mentioned but made all the difference: 1.) To remove tension on the right side timing chain, you MUST rotate the crank slightly clockwise in order to put the tensioner under slight tension or the special tool will not be able to release the tensioner (there are other videos that do cover this - do yourself a favor and look them up before you break your special tool like I did), 2.) On the left side, the trick of putting the cam into the neutral position by rotating it 30-degrees ALSO needs to be done to the exhaust cam (not just the intake cam). I did find that zip-tying the phasers and phaser locking block saved a lot of heartache. I also did notice that if you’re struggling to get the phaser back onto the camshaft, it’s an alignment issue as there’s a key guide on the cams that you need to line up just right, so work on slight rotation of the cam rather than wiggling and praying. Overall, amazing video!
Literally the most thorough video I've seen on this topic by a landslide! Massive thanks to this guy and all the effort he put in! I'll now comfortably be attempting this repair 🤞
@@christopherbrown3614 It went well, just go slow and take your time. It's been running quiet for a while now. However I only did one side and I wish I would have done but since I was so far in the engine anyway. Might as well
best video ever to sell my Chrysler asap as Im going back to Honda where you never need to do this as its as if Chrysler planned this by selling the tools required while Honda doesnt.
All done and the ticking is gone. One tip. When doing the right (back head) there is very little clearance to put the 36mm socket on the oil nut that attaches the phaser to the cam. I cut the special tool that is wedged between the sprockets to allow access to the rear one to torque it to the 118 ft/lbs. Also when using the tool to release the chain tension, I used a little never seize on the outside part of the tool. This allows it to slide it easier. Great video!
I was torn between living with the tick and causing further damage or paying large sums of money to a franchise mechanic shop. I just successfully completed replacing 2 cams and all of the rockers and lifters in my 2014 Town and Country and I wouldn't have attempted it if it had not been for your video. With many of the automotive shops now charging labor @ $125 per hour - and higher- and with their monster markup on the price of parts too, owning and maintaining an out-of-warranty vehicle is becoming almost economically impossible for a lot of folks that may live on the lower end of the money ladder. Of course, buying a new or used car is out of the question for many people these days as well. High quality (best I've seen!) videos such as yours gives us a fighting chance! Well done Sir and THANK YOU!
This 2 part series was absolutely perfect! Everything you need to know and nothing you don’t, plus clear and concise. I’m a professional tech, but I’m about to do this job for the first time, and I have the tool kit, but the video visual of the special tools vs the service manual has given me complete confidence in tackling this job. Thanks!
Thank you so much for putting this series together. I'm a shadetree Jeep guy up in Canada, and I just did rockers and lifters, both sides, plus oil cooler, plugs, and PCV valve, on my 2012 Wrangler. Most complex job I've ever done. I probbably watched these two videos five or ten times each to prepare and was fast forwarding and replaying them in the garage as I worked. Plus a bunch of your other Pentastar vids. Successful project that never in a million years would I have thought I could pull off a few years ago. Mind blown. Many, many thanks to your excellent and clear explanation.
Excellent work Mr. Pike! I am so appreciative of the meticulous detail in this video. I have 50 years experience as a mechanic, Certified Master Tech in 1986 and I must say that I am extremely impressed with your effort!! Thank you Sir!!
I know you may not read this but thank you so much for making this video. I'll was a little skeptical about tackling this. You made it possible, now my kids and wife will have a reliable vehicle. Thank you so much!
Great video as always David. Keep up the great work. Am 68 with a back that hurts so probably try and have someone else do it or take me a few weeks. Try and find a kid that wants to learn and teach them something. I know easier said then done these days. When I was 12 I would jump at helping people at the gas station just as long as they taught me at the same time as I was helping them. I did not want any money just knowledge. I cleaned a lot of parts but they showed me how things came apart and went back together. That was priceless.
I’m starting this tomorrow on my wife’s van. Due to inflation I can’t afford to take it somewhere we are already in the edge with groceries, gas, and rent.
I have to say this is one of the best automotive video I have ever seen. I don't think any information was left out of this video. Anyone watching this video with any mechanical ability would have no problem performing this job. Great video !
David, you give real accurate specs and all important details and sequence on the correct procedure to successfully perform this technical job. Well done. Keep up the good work. Thank you.
This is great! I am in this section of my engine now, learned a lot by watching your tutorial; in my case I am taking the whole engine apart, it was hydro locked, could not move the crankshaft but once out of the bay, once I could separate tranny, used a breaker bar with a cheater bar and with immense effort got to rotate the crank and remove the torque converter, so finally engine is in the engine stand and I am starting to take it all apart; learning as I go; your tutorial has lot of details and explanations as to how everything works and things to look for; my engine has about 68k miles as it was a replacement under warranty after a spun bearing in the factory engine at 59k miles, the hydro locked was warranty denied by both Mopar and my insurance, hence I have to do it myself, can not afford you guys but with tutorials like this it is possible; I overhauled another engine for a Toyota Corolla once already, so no my first rodeo and I installed a half lift in my garage which helps a lot and makes the process less painful. What have me scratching my head is when putting it back together how do I align it for the timing? as I am opening everything the heads so far looks fantastic and I will check everything as recommended for tolerances and excessive wear but I think this engine could give another 100k after back together again, once back together still I have the mopar lifetime warranty and hope their would honor if anything fails. The maintenance have been spot on, and I can confirm by the look of the components inside; always follow the oils changes makes a hell of a difference!
Just completed my first rocker arm replacement in my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and your videos were instrumental in getting the job done. Keep up the good work!
Hopefully I don't have these engine issues with my 2018 GC when it ages in miles my understanding the 2016 and up models engines been redesign by chrysler so time will tell🤷🏿🤦🏿😂😂🤣🤣😂
@@MotorCityMechanic Great video , Can I ask a question? My 2016 Jeep Wrangler/Rubicon has 29.400 miles and just stopped running one day on the way home from the store, It will not start, does turn over but just can't start, TRIES TO , My mechanic says after a bit of checking that its probably a broken cam or parts associated to it, Off the top of your head, what would you guess is wrong? the noise is on the right side, Nothing real loud or grinding, thanks,
HI , Up date,!! My mechanic said he did not remove valve cover on the right side but did hear noises like a lifter problem AND he pulled all 3 plugs on the right side and found gas all over the plugs and some in all e cylinders,
I don’t ever comment on videos, but these videos were a key reference point as I got brave and took on this job. Only one failed and noisy rocker that I caught early so the cam was fine. Thank you for discussing that some minor wear is fine. I replaced all rockers, lifters, plugs, gaskets, and more and it runs great again and no more ticking! Thank you!
@David... I've said it before, you are a blessing and we appreciate what you do for this community. I'll be doing this job maybe this weekend. Heck, this seems easier then when I followed your vide for the Oil Filter Housing replacement.. Thanks again, and you got blessings coming your way soon.
Heh, something very important! I just stumbled across a RUclips short about catastrophic engine failures on these due to the 13mm oil galley bolts (right below the cam phasers) coming loose and/or falling out. They either chew up the phaser sending metal parts into the engine, also causing a loss of oil pressure. Some mechanically lock up the engine too. Ugh. While your video was otherwise perfect for this job, I decided to check my bolts, and although mine weren't walking out yet, they had no torque left on them....they were just barely seated, so I'd call them loose, and I'm only at 60,000 miles. I was too nervous to remove the phaser from the chain to get to these with a socket. (torque spec is 9ft/lbs - some have run them up to 20 with no trouble), so here is what I did. One by one, I loosened each one off about 4 threads with an open ended wrench and my fingers, then tucked a microfibre towel underneath the loose bolt. I then sprayed a little brake cleaner on the threads to get as much oil as possible off of the threads, then dried it with a shot of compressed air. I then put a small tube on my Loctite 262 bottle to extend it's reach and applied a liberal amount of red Loctite to the threads. I ran them up and got them nice and snug with the open end of a 13mm wrench. It a really tight spot, but I was able to get all 4 of them. I didn't dare remove the bolts all the way for fear of dropping them down in there, or even being able to re-start the threads, and apparently you don't want to get magnets anywhere near the cam phasers. So I did the best I could without pulling the timing cover off which would add hours and complexity to the lifter/roller-rocker replacement I'm doing. Very pathetic that Stellantis would use steel bolts like this in aluminum heads to plug oil galleys and not have any sort of thread sealer / locking agent or other more durable method to ensure they won't come out. An allen head pipe plug with thread seal would be a much better choice! For those reading this, CHECK YOUR GALLEY BOLTS! Not much point in dropping in $500 worth of lifters & rockers if it's just gonna go bang from a bolt that falls out soon! I decided to tackle this first before proceeding with the work shown in this video. Now that I've tacked this (it was tricky) moving on with the rest! Cheers!
You know your engines, but I am most impressed by your ability to lay the whole process out and articulate it so clearly. I'm getting ready to do the oil filter assembly and rockers this weekend. Thank you sir.
Just did this project on my 2014 Town and Country. Thank you so much for this great video (1&2). It gave me the confidence to do it and your helpful hints and specs along the way were awesome. When I was done she purred like new. Game changer for me…you ROCK!
This video got me encouraged to work on the 2015 chrysler 300 for that annoying ticking noise. David, thank you so much, I really appreciate you spending so much time with explaining everything very well in the videos as well as the editing quality on those videos. This guy is a real rockstar!
This has to be the best RUclips tutorial video I have ever watched. Thank you for doing it and explaining everything so well. You saved me a ton of money. I was going to try it but I wouldn’t have known about releasing the tension. After I got it going, I changed oil and the spring in the oil filter went flying, you showed me what that problem was as well. I owe you lunch or a beer, can I PayPal you a tip?
A Tech Tip fellas : if u Rotate engine after u are COMPLETELY DONE .. u may see slack at 1 spot While rotating then it gets bac tight ..It's because tensioner are oil Primary driven .. So I disable spark ..Lightly Spinned Engine wit Starter 3 diff times spacing out cranks ..Then I went bac rotated engine checking For slack in chan ,& Timing marks ..:;:;'tensioner was primed chain was tight ..& My Marks was still on point👍🏾 .This guy is excellent instructor I must add
David - this is by far, THE BEST video I’ve ever seen and, because of it, I was able to replace the rocker arms and lifters on the left side cylinder head in my 2016 JKU Wrangler ALL BY MYSELF!!! This video just saved me about $2,700 from the dealership! Thank you so much for such great content!
As a lifetime mechanic that’s fixing to do rockers on one of these. Your video is awesome. I have no questions now on using the cam wedge kit to do this job
Thank you for this video. I just finished this job on my ‘15 200 and your step by step instructions and descriptions were exactly what I needed to get ‘er done. Not necessarily an easy job but certainly not outside the capabilities of a competent DIYer.
Excellent video! Thanks. I told my wife to let me know if she ever hears the slightest of ticks on her Jeep. It's just started now only when idling for 15 minutes or so, so we caught it in time. Going to order 24 rockers and lifters and get to work.
Thank you David, I just finished replacing 12 rocker arms on the left side of my 3.6 Dodge Avenger. Followed your video step by step, and everything turned out perfect. Your videos are a great support. Thank again.
Thank you, thank you. I only ran in to 1 problem. That was when I assembled my 1st cam I put cam back in at 30° out in the rest position. I did not realize that the cam phaser and the cam were slotted. That held me up for about an hour and I thought for sure that I had done some major damage. But once I relaxed, I realized and rotated the cam back and lined up the holes and everything assembled very easily. Once again, thank you you gave me the confidence to try this on my own and save money. Please continue.
Wow. I'm getting ready to do this on my 15 GC. I tend to get pretty serious job anxiety before if jobs and this will be the most critical work I've done yet, this video is quite the confidence builder. Thanks David! I'll let you all know how it went in a few weeks 👍
@@adrianallen3406 I pulled the bank 1 (rear) valve cover and had two cam lobes so badly worn it needed to be replaced. I figured at that point I should see what was up with the other and the cams were ok but there were a few bad rockers. Based on the cost it turned out to be less expensive to replace the motor so it's at a shop having that done now.
Fantastic video. Getting a view with the timing chain cover off makes it very clear how the tools need to be used. This is glossed over in many of the other videos I've seen on this process. I'm getting ready to do this job, and seeing the video makes me much more comfortable with the process as I approach it. The discussion on camshaft conditions was very helpful. I haven't seen clear guidance on what is acceptable vs unacceptable wear in other videos.
Dear David, another awesome video. You show all the little details and tricks to keep the parts in line and in proper order. I wish more mechanics were as detail oriented as you. Keep up the great work. It's really nice to see how clean stuff is too, even if our shops have messy areas, lets keep this area clean and neat for the video. Great job, I know it took hours to get this edited just right. You did an awesome job man. The sound quality is great, camera angles great, torque sequence proper. Very cool on putting numbers on the bolt heads/Torx. Keep it clean, Jim
Perhaps the best instructional video I have ever seen. All important details discussed, difficult parts well explained, with no fluff. And thank you so much for the torque specifications. Great video!
I just did this repair on my 2015 Dodge Charger. The tools saved my butt, and we found not one, but TWO lifters going out. CAM shaft was able to be saved in time. Thank you for this video, it was so helpful when we got stuck.
Thank you so much for making this video and covering so much information and specs. . It helped immensely while replacing my lifters and rockers on my 2014 3.6l v6 Durango. Can’t thank you enough!
I closely followed all steps in this two-part series to replace the valvetrain components in the left head of my 2015 Wrangler's ticking 3.6 Pentastar at 60K miles. There was, indeed, a bad lifter and exhaust rocker arm. After a couple of weeks of road and freeway use, the motor is still purring and I'm confident my repair is successful and going to hold up. I could not have done it without your incredible guidance, David! I've been intimidated to get any lower than the top of the valve covers for 30 years since a younger, tool-challenged me screwed up a couple of engines. Yet here I am a short time ago, confidently holding my Jeep's camshaft for reference photos! Furthermore, since I live in Western Washington where parts and repair costs are HEAVILY inflated, between this and my horribly-located PCV valve change, I saved myself nearly $5K! A well-earned gift is coming your way, my friend! Thank you on behalf of my whole family.
Your welcome.....no need in keeping you waiting for part 2. In the past I use to space them out just. It’s funny looking at the numbers....part 2 has more views then part 1. Guess some are jumping straight to the punch line lol
Great series on Chrysler/VW 3.2 and 3.6 Rocker Arm Replacement. Just finished and your teaching is well advanced above others I have found on the internet! Thank you for your detailed processes!
Sometimes its just about seeing it laid out step by step to make it feel easy. I try my best to get as many camera angles to point out those details that others leave out
Second time through these videos and I have a page of notes. I'll be replacing one cam on each side and all of the rockers. Thank you for guiding us through this.
I don't even have this engine but your Part 1 vid was so good I had to see Part 2. It did not disappoint. Thank you for a perfectly clear, fluff-free, informative video.
Great detailed video. Just had my 2014 JK rocker arm go bad. Dealer wanted 1800 to fix, I was considering shortcut, until I saw this video. Glad I found it, because the shortcut version made me nervous. The hardest part was the cam sensor and removing the battery tray. Took my time and changed all my rockers on the passenger side, even though it was just one bad one. Now my Jeep purrs like new!
Thank you. Im about to start on my grand daughter charger. Just wanted to follow up. Following your instructions, I completed replacing all 4 cams. With Rocker arms and lifters. I discovered 4 busted lifters. Plus the broken rockers arms. I had already removed the intake manifold and valve covers as a preliminary inspection. I put them back in place temporarily until my parts arrived. This fine morning, I completed the work. I did run into a minor snag. On the left side, the tool to keep the chains loose, popped out, but no problem. I just got the left side cams replaced, took me about 10 minutes of getting the tool back on the head. Then got the work done. Took me about 4.5 hours total. Then the final assembly. Then the much anticipated start. Rattle for 3 seconds and quieted down. Cleared my codes, did some phazer cleaning with my scan tool. Did the cam learning part. Runs very smooth and quiet. Thank you sir.
This guy is by far the Best Mechanic I have ever seen. I don't trust mechanics due to a bad experience with a couple of them, but I definitely would trust this guy with any of my cars. Great Job.
In the middle of doing my rocker arm replacement in a 2014 jeep grand cherokee and was only going to do the one rocker that was bad but this video series has shown me a lot i didnt know about cam shafts and motor timing in the 3.6 these videos have helped me with giving confidence on getting the job done and replacing all 24 rocker arms and lifters in my jeep. This is the first in motor work that I have done to any vehicle being a dyi'er so thank you for putting videos out like this!! For sure has helped me believe I can do more than just bolt on and off parts!
Just wanted to say THANK YOU ❤ I did all my rockers and lifters this eve and being able to just remove the camshaft completely make things so easy. I couldn't have done it without such clear explanations. Thanks again!
Like I tell everyone else that has completed this repair…..may hats off to you on taking on a big job like this. I appreciate you using my videos and for leaving feedback as well. Job well done!
I used this video to repair the right side intake rocker arm problem on 2015 Dodge Grand Caravan. It turned out my camshaft was too damaged to reuse based on observation and advice from video. Without this video I would have been lost. Many thanks!
David is the absolutely GOAT. A master mechanic...definitely...but also has the heart of a teacher and some mad videography skills. It's one thing to know how to do the repair but it's a whole other talent to be able to tell and show others how to do it and yet another level to be able to video it in a way that makes it crystal clear. I've used several of his videos with great success, including this one. This was the first time I ever pulled a camshaft and it went so smooth it was scary. Found the #4 exhaust rocker arm on the left bank was bad (although, per David's advice, replaced them all) and now no more noise. Take your time, follow his every word, and you'll have zero problems in the tear down/replacement/assembly. Great job!!
I spent a whole day doing this project. Thanks to these videos I have been able to keep my 2015 grand caravan running smooth. Great tips to make working on your vehicle easier.
@@vijaysri2325 I cant remember, but it was just the rockers(bought from dealer), gaskets and cam tensioner tool kit from amazon. Rockers were the biggest expense.
Just want to say, dealer took off $5k on my 2015 GC Summit trade value because of tick. I spent less than $1,400 for all 4 cams, lifters, rockers, gaskets,seals, phaser tools, assembly lube and oil/filter change. Support this channel. I could and would not have done this without this tutorial.
Thank you for this. Some other videos on how to perrform this repair are real hack jobs, but you recommend using the correct tools and methods to do the job right. My 300C with 105,000 miles started ticking and these two videos made the job easy.
Thanks for the step by step and the tool info. After seeing people replace ONE rocker arm it always bugged me as to... "What if the others go bad..." I've worked Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Chevy and Ford as a tech. You are definitely top notch. Again thanks👍🏿
Just wanted to say thanks for your videos!! My town and country developed the tick and had a bad rocker arm. Thanks to your video i was able to replace them all myself! And you saved me money from buying a new RI camshaft with your other video on when to reuse. Your awesome dude!
Love your videos! This is not your first video I have used. My dad and I are planning on tackling this job on his 2014 Town and Country with over 235k miles. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Getting ready to do this job tomorrow on a 2012 200. Got the 24 rockers and lifters in a oil bath. Fantastic 2 part video series. I've done a few of these and your dead on as far as information goes. This is the best on you tube.
These two videos you made were perfect. ALMOST I say almost because one small thing that could have been pointed out could have saved me from having to buy an engine. You covered every little detail and every little problem that could come up making the whole job run very smoothly except for I. Small but very important tip. When torquing down the oil control valves, DO NOT RELY SOLELY ON THE LOCKING BLOCK. Use a crescent wrench on the hex on the camshaft as an additional safety to maintain cam shaft position. Unfortunately, my locking block failed and I rotated the camshaft independent from the engine pushing the valves I to the piston. I didn’t realize how badly I messed it up till I fully reassembled the job and went to crank it with zero compression. I had to buy a new engine as I was already in past my comfort level with this job and had nowhere near the experience to go further Into it. This little tip could have saved me $6300. Aside from my mishap, everything else was perfect in this video and went as smooth as can be. I’m confident I could successfully do the job now but I wish I had this bit of information before and only saw it after the fact.
That's a tough pill to swallow. There's definitely a fair amount of risk for someone taking on a job like this without being a trained/experienced mechanic. If you would have verified that the timing was correct before attempting to start the engine, you would have caught your error and prevented the damage.
Thank you very much for the excellent videos on this Pentastar engine. My 3.6 L was ticking so I took the top off the engine with your help. I was just going to replace the one sloppy but working rocker on #5 which was the only cylinder throwing a code. I wasn’t going to pull the valve cover on the left side. But I then decided to replace all the rockers and lifters. I discovered about 6 spongy lifters on both sides and about 3 rockers that had rollers that were a little sloppy. BUT I had a rocker arm roller seized on the driver side intake that didn’t even throw a code! That cam lobe was almost perfectly round! So, 24 lifters, 24 rockers, and one new cam, all Melling brand. I immediately changed the oil and filter and have put a couple thousand miles on it…..no clicking and no engine lights! Parts were close to 1,000 bucks but much better than the $5,000 the dealership wanted. THANKYOU for helping give this electrician the confidence to tackle this project!
David - this two part series, along with your video where you recommended to upgrade the 2013 Jeep Wrangler JK oil filter housing to the 2014 model, gave my son Austin and me the confidence to tackle the replacement of the left side rocker arms, followers, and cam shafts, the oil cooler housing, and all six spark plugs all at the same time. We spent last Saturday and Sunday taking it slow and easy and constantly referring back to your videos. It was such a good feeling when we started the engine and the ticking and CEL for the oil pressure sensor were both gone! Thanks so much for producing these videos and taking the time to explain the process so that non-mechanics can understand it to the point of actually giving it a try. We have never been this deep into an engine before. It was a little scary, but it worked out just as you said it would. We have subscribed to your channel and look forward to learning something new each time.
David, you pay attention to detail, and your instructions are right on target! There's only one way to do to do the job right, and that's with the right tools and torque! I wish more videos were explained in detail like you do! Thank You!
HUGE Thank you! I can barely change my oil and I followed every step of this 2 part series and was able to replace my cam shaft, rocker arms, and lifters. I was able to get back on the road in no time and drove back to Louisiana from Michigan with no issues!
David thank you, Not that is an easy job. You make this a step by step process. Your proficiency is evident, the visual information is amazing. You have the best information on this topic! If your ever in the Pensacola FL area, hit me up I owe you a beer!
Thank you, David! Excellent video! While I'm not sure I can handle the job myself on my 2012 Town and Country, I feel I can now speak intelligently with the dealer about the repair. Thanks again!
Main reason I did this series out of the car was main so that I could show everything is more detail, too much can be seen well enough in the car on some vehicle. Thanks for watching Mike!
Awesome and clear instructions, I just finished this repair on my 2013 Wrangler. When I started her up she runs smooth but during my test drive the check engine light came on with a P0365 error code for the camshaft position sensor bank one sensor two. The cam I replaced was the intake cam. Maybe I damaged the sensor during removal? All the cables look to be in good condition and are firmly seated running to the sensor. The engine runs fine and isn't misfiring but I have only taken it on local roads and not up to highway speeds yet as I don't want to damage any components. I should also mention that the dash indicator for the stability control indicator is also permanently illuminated.
Thank you so much for this video. I was easily able to replace the bad rocker and the chewed up cam shaft on my wife’s van because you took the time to do this…..Very much appreciated
Awesome video. Simple, precise and to the point. This has literally become a Father’s Day tradition for my son and I. We’ve had the pleasure of doing this job 3 times in the last 4 years! Lesson learned… My advice is do all the rockers/lifters on (at least) each full bank. If you gotta go in, do them all. They will continue to fail. We originally did intake, next year had to do exhaust on same bank . 2 years later it’s happening on the other bank, so we’re doing all 12, intake and exhaust ! 120,000 miles and my son’s Jeep Wrangler Unlimited is still going strong. So it’s worth it.
This man has saved me so much money. Just replaced one camshaft all 12 rocker's and lifters on the right side.
MotorCity Mechanic - I am amazed that you do this level of instruction for common folk like me. I have a 132k 2012 Chrysler T&C and used your videos to replace all of the lifters, rockers, a camshaft, plugs, and oil cooler (metal replacement). The coil boots were ok. It worked perfectly! The engine is now quiet and powerful and feels like new. My mechanic wouldn't even touch it, said he would be willing to swap engines with a recycled engine, but not replace the above. I greatly appreciate the assistance, please keep making great videos. Lunch is on me.👏
Many thanks!
I never understand why techs won’t work I them. There are over 12,000,000 on the road and in a lot of Chrysler videos. As you saw….it can be done, just need to take your time. Personally I rather do this then an engine
My mechanic said the same thing I'll replace the engine but I can fix that.
@stevenstewart2898 You can do it. My van is still running great. Like he said, take your time, do a step at a time. I tag my connections, write every step down as I did it. Came back together perfectly. Good luck, post your results. Thank again @MotorCityMechanic
This is like 3.6 Pentastar for dummies and that’s a great compliment as you made it so easy to fully understand how to do a very intricate job for most. I have mechanical skills, but for anyone just learning you’re the perfect teacher. Thanks again 🎉🎉🎉
Never thought about calling it that before 😂. I will take it as a compliment and many thanks! Make sure to subscribe
I agree with you but I believe it should be: Simple Pentastar Repair for the Poor Dummy Owner. Brought to by the Dummies who Engineered and Designed a literal ticking time 💣 of an engine
Just knocked this job out on my 2013 Durango. Thank you so much for the step by step. These are the most thorough videos (part 1 & 2) for this repair that I found. 👍
Did you do both sides? How long did it take you?
Caution, I found loose oil galley plugs, check these upon disassembly.
Between the cylinder head and the timing chain and gear, there are two oil galley plugs (bolts). These oil galley plugs are threaded and have a 13 mm head. On bank two at 140K miles, I found both bolts loose and working their way out. As a long retired engine builder, I found this to be an outstanding video and very helpful. Attention to detail is paramount and this guy has it.
I second that. Found the same thing.
I'm going through extended warranty for a failed rocker that ate into my came on driver side inner cam. Checking those oil galleys bolts tomorrow. If they are loose, can you just blue lock tite and torque them down? What torque?
Never in my life watched a engine repair a video that is very well detailed and as informative..... thankyou sir
Excellent video. Two CRITICAL steps that weren’t mentioned but made all the difference: 1.) To remove tension on the right side timing chain, you MUST rotate the crank slightly clockwise in order to put the tensioner under slight tension or the special tool will not be able to release the tensioner (there are other videos that do cover this - do yourself a favor and look them up before you break your special tool like I did), 2.) On the left side, the trick of putting the cam into the neutral position by rotating it 30-degrees ALSO needs to be done to the exhaust cam (not just the intake cam). I did find that zip-tying the phasers and phaser locking block saved a lot of heartache. I also did notice that if you’re struggling to get the phaser back onto the camshaft, it’s an alignment issue as there’s a key guide on the cams that you need to line up just right, so work on slight rotation of the cam rather than wiggling and praying. Overall, amazing video!
Do you mean rotate the crankshaft down below or one of the camshafts when working on right side?
No one will explain it to you better than him.👍
Hi Ryan: Is this the video you referred to
ruclips.net/video/1tSZOWqtMe4/видео.html
Link?
@@Carlos-qz3uq ruclips.net/video/1tSZOWqtMe4/видео.htmlsi=NL7lrrXGi0HMY4d8
Literally the most thorough video I've seen on this topic by a landslide! Massive thanks to this guy and all the effort he put in!
I'll now comfortably be attempting this repair 🤞
How did it go?
@@christopherbrown3614 It went well, just go slow and take your time. It's been running quiet for a while now.
However I only did one side and I wish I would have done but since I was so far in the engine anyway. Might as well
best video ever to sell my Chrysler asap as Im going back to Honda where you never need to do this as its as if Chrysler planned this by selling the tools required while Honda doesnt.
Bro honestly I watched probably 10 videos on how to do this job and your video made me 100% comfortable doing it myself!!✅✅✅✅
This guy gives me confidence that he KNOWS HIS SHIT! Rare on this format. Thanks Dude!!!
All done and the ticking is gone. One tip. When doing the right (back head) there is very little clearance to put the 36mm socket on the oil nut that attaches the phaser to the cam. I cut the special tool that is wedged between the sprockets to allow access to the rear one to torque it to the 118 ft/lbs. Also when using the tool to release the chain tension, I used a little never seize on the outside part of the tool. This allows it to slide it easier. Great video!
I did the exact same thing lol. I have always wished I mentioned that in the video.
I was torn between living with the tick and causing further damage or paying large sums of money to a franchise mechanic shop. I just successfully completed replacing 2 cams and all of the rockers and lifters in my 2014 Town and Country and I wouldn't have attempted it if it had not been for your video. With many of the automotive shops now charging labor @ $125 per hour - and higher- and with their monster markup on the price of parts too, owning and maintaining an out-of-warranty vehicle is becoming almost economically impossible for a lot of folks that may live on the lower end of the money ladder. Of course, buying a new or used car is out of the question for many people these days as well. High quality (best I've seen!) videos such as yours gives us a fighting chance! Well done Sir and THANK YOU!
This 2 part series was absolutely perfect! Everything you need to know and nothing you don’t, plus clear and concise. I’m a professional tech, but I’m about to do this job for the first time, and I have the tool kit, but the video visual of the special tools vs the service manual has given me complete confidence in tackling this job. Thanks!
Thank you so much for putting this series together. I'm a shadetree Jeep guy up in Canada, and I just did rockers and lifters, both sides, plus oil cooler, plugs, and PCV valve, on my 2012 Wrangler. Most complex job I've ever done. I probbably watched these two videos five or ten times each to prepare and was fast forwarding and replaying them in the garage as I worked. Plus a bunch of your other Pentastar vids. Successful project that never in a million years would I have thought I could pull off a few years ago. Mind blown. Many, many thanks to your excellent and clear explanation.
Excellent work Mr. Pike! I am so appreciative of the meticulous detail in this video. I have 50 years experience as a mechanic, Certified Master Tech in 1986 and I must say that I am extremely impressed with your effort!! Thank you Sir!!
I know you may not read this but thank you so much for making this video. I'll was a little skeptical about tackling this. You made it possible, now my kids and wife will have a reliable vehicle. Thank you so much!
@@disparage1 thanks for reaching out and for the comment. It’s much appreciated to hear how the videos are still helping people.
Great video as always David. Keep up the great work. Am 68 with a back that hurts so probably try and have someone else do it or take me a few weeks. Try and find a kid that wants to learn and teach them something. I know easier said then done these days. When I was 12 I would jump at helping people at the gas station just as long as they taught me at the same time as I was helping them. I did not want any money just knowledge. I cleaned a lot of parts but they showed me how things came apart and went back together. That was priceless.
I’m starting this tomorrow on my wife’s van. Due to inflation I can’t afford to take it somewhere we are already in the edge with groceries, gas, and rent.
Last of the true mechanics.
Finally a video that doesn’t skip any critical steps. I’m definately doing the job myself and see why my mechanic was scared to do it
I have to say this is one of the best automotive video I have ever seen. I don't think any information was left out of this video. Anyone watching this video with any mechanical ability would have no problem performing this job. Great video !
Thanks Joe! Those were very kind words and I feel honored
Perfect tutorial, felt like I was watching an online class. Feeling pretty confident attempting this repair now.
The most comprehensive video I’ve seen on this- well presented and organized. Thank you
David, you give real accurate specs and all important details and sequence on the correct procedure to successfully perform this technical job.
Well done. Keep up the good work.
Thank you.
You just saved me $1,700 in labour. My man!!
This is great! I am in this section of my engine now, learned a lot by watching your tutorial; in my case I am taking the whole engine apart, it was hydro locked, could not move the crankshaft but once out of the bay, once I could separate tranny, used a breaker bar with a cheater bar and with immense effort got to rotate the crank and remove the torque converter, so finally engine is in the engine stand and I am starting to take it all apart; learning as I go; your tutorial has lot of details and explanations as to how everything works and things to look for; my engine has about 68k miles as it was a replacement under warranty after a spun bearing in the factory engine at 59k miles, the hydro locked was warranty denied by both Mopar and my insurance, hence I have to do it myself, can not afford you guys but with tutorials like this it is possible; I overhauled another engine for a Toyota Corolla once already, so no my first rodeo and I installed a half lift in my garage which helps a lot and makes the process less painful. What have me scratching my head is when putting it back together how do I align it for the timing? as I am opening everything the heads so far looks fantastic and I will check everything as recommended for tolerances and excessive wear but I think this engine could give another 100k after back together again, once back together still I have the mopar lifetime warranty and hope their would honor if anything fails. The maintenance have been spot on, and I can confirm by the look of the components inside; always follow the oils changes makes a hell of a difference!
Just completed my first rocker arm replacement in my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and your videos were instrumental in getting the job done. Keep up the good work!
It’s a big job so my hats off to you for taking it on. Thanks for watching/using my videos.
Hopefully I don't have these engine issues with my 2018 GC when it ages in miles my understanding the 2016 and up models engines been redesign by chrysler so time will tell🤷🏿🤦🏿😂😂🤣🤣😂
@@MotorCityMechanic Great video , Can I ask a question? My 2016 Jeep Wrangler/Rubicon has 29.400 miles and just stopped running one day on the way home from the store, It will not start, does turn over but just can't start, TRIES TO , My mechanic says after a bit of checking that its probably a broken cam or parts associated to it, Off the top of your head, what would you guess is wrong? the noise is on the right side, Nothing real loud or grinding, thanks,
HI , Up date,!! My mechanic said he did not remove valve cover on the right side but did hear noises like a lifter problem AND he pulled all 3 plugs on the right side and found gas all over the plugs and some in all e cylinders,
I don’t ever comment on videos, but these videos were a key reference point as I got brave and took on this job. Only one failed and noisy rocker that I caught early so the cam was fine. Thank you for discussing that some minor wear is fine. I replaced all rockers, lifters, plugs, gaskets, and more and it runs great again and no more ticking! Thank you!
@@jlambo9757 awesome! Great job and my hats off to you for taking this repair on. Glad it turned out great. Again…..thank you
@David... I've said it before, you are a blessing and we appreciate what you do for this community. I'll be doing this job maybe this weekend. Heck, this seems easier then when I followed your vide for the Oil Filter Housing replacement.. Thanks again, and you got blessings coming your way soon.
Heh, something very important! I just stumbled across a RUclips short about catastrophic engine failures on these due to the 13mm oil galley bolts (right below the cam phasers) coming loose and/or falling out. They either chew up the phaser sending metal parts into the engine, also causing a loss of oil pressure. Some mechanically lock up the engine too. Ugh. While your video was otherwise perfect for this job, I decided to check my bolts, and although mine weren't walking out yet, they had no torque left on them....they were just barely seated, so I'd call them loose, and I'm only at 60,000 miles. I was too nervous to remove the phaser from the chain to get to these with a socket. (torque spec is 9ft/lbs - some have run them up to 20 with no trouble), so here is what I did.
One by one, I loosened each one off about 4 threads with an open ended wrench and my fingers, then tucked a microfibre towel underneath the loose bolt. I then sprayed a little brake cleaner on the threads to get as much oil as possible off of the threads, then dried it with a shot of compressed air. I then put a small tube on my Loctite 262 bottle to extend it's reach and applied a liberal amount of red Loctite to the threads. I ran them up and got them nice and snug with the open end of a 13mm wrench. It a really tight spot, but I was able to get all 4 of them. I didn't dare remove the bolts all the way for fear of dropping them down in there, or even being able to re-start the threads, and apparently you don't want to get magnets anywhere near the cam phasers. So I did the best I could without pulling the timing cover off which would add hours and complexity to the lifter/roller-rocker replacement I'm doing.
Very pathetic that Stellantis would use steel bolts like this in aluminum heads to plug oil galleys and not have any sort of thread sealer / locking agent or other more durable method to ensure they won't come out. An allen head pipe plug with thread seal would be a much better choice! For those reading this, CHECK YOUR GALLEY BOLTS! Not much point in dropping in $500 worth of lifters & rockers if it's just gonna go bang from a bolt that falls out soon!
I decided to tackle this first before proceeding with the work shown in this video. Now that I've tacked this (it was tricky) moving on with the rest! Cheers!
You know your engines, but I am most impressed by your ability to lay the whole process out and articulate it so clearly. I'm getting ready to do the oil filter assembly and rockers this weekend. Thank you sir.
Brilliant video, felt like I was sitting in a classroom getting thorough instructions.
Thanks. I try to include as much needed info as possible without overdoing it. Glad people enjoy
Just did this project on my 2014 Town and Country. Thank you so much for this great video (1&2). It gave me the confidence to do it and your helpful hints and specs along the way were awesome. When I was done she purred like new. Game changer for me…you ROCK!
Killer tutorial. Top notch explanation, detail, and camera angles. Man is a poet.
This video got me encouraged to work on the 2015 chrysler 300 for that annoying ticking noise. David, thank you
so much, I really appreciate you spending so much time with explaining everything very well in the videos as well as the editing quality on those videos.
This guy is a real rockstar!
I'm doing my 2014 promaster for the same ticking sound. Have a hell of a time getting the bolts out for the cam phasers!
This is the best step by step tutorial on youtube. Now I can do it on my own when my 300s start ticking. Thank you for sharing!
This has to be the best RUclips tutorial video I have ever watched. Thank you for doing it and explaining everything so well. You saved me a ton of money. I was going to try it but I wouldn’t have known about releasing the tension. After I got it going, I changed oil and the spring in the oil filter went flying, you showed me what that problem was as well. I owe you lunch or a beer, can I PayPal you a tip?
A Tech Tip fellas : if u Rotate engine after u are COMPLETELY DONE .. u may see slack at 1 spot While rotating then it gets bac tight ..It's because tensioner are oil Primary driven .. So I disable spark ..Lightly Spinned Engine wit Starter 3 diff times spacing out cranks ..Then I went bac rotated engine checking For slack in chan ,& Timing marks ..:;:;'tensioner was primed chain was tight ..& My Marks was still on point👍🏾 .This guy is excellent instructor I must add
David - this is by far, THE BEST video I’ve ever seen and, because of it, I was able to replace the rocker arms and lifters on the left side cylinder head in my 2016 JKU Wrangler ALL BY MYSELF!!! This video just saved me about $2,700 from the dealership! Thank you so much for such great content!
Awesome! It’s always great to hear how the videos help
In regards to the lifters, did you see any damage, if not how soon did you catch on to the ticking?
As a lifetime mechanic that’s fixing to do rockers on one of these. Your video is awesome. I have no questions now on using the cam wedge kit to do this job
Thank you for this video. I just finished this job on my ‘15 200 and your step by step instructions and descriptions were exactly what I needed to get ‘er done. Not necessarily an easy job but certainly not outside the capabilities of a competent DIYer.
Excellent video! Thanks. I told my wife to let me know if she ever hears the slightest of ticks on her Jeep. It's just started now only when idling for 15 minutes or so, so we caught it in time. Going to order 24 rockers and lifters and get to work.
Thank you David, I just finished replacing 12 rocker arms on the left side of my 3.6 Dodge Avenger. Followed your video step by step, and everything turned out perfect. Your videos are a great support. Thank again.
Thank you, thank you. I only ran in to 1 problem. That was when I assembled my 1st cam I put cam back in at 30° out in the rest position. I did not realize that the cam phaser and the cam were slotted. That held me up for about an hour and I thought for sure that I had done some major damage. But once I relaxed, I realized and rotated the cam back and lined up the holes and everything assembled very easily. Once again, thank you you gave me the confidence to try this on my own and save money. Please continue.
These videos allowed me to save a ton of money on repairs! Thank you for such a thorough explanation and walkthrough!
This is literally like a mechanic class... by far the best 1 on youtube and I've seen alot
Wow. I'm getting ready to do this on my 15 GC. I tend to get pretty serious job anxiety before if jobs and this will be the most critical work I've done yet, this video is quite the confidence builder.
Thanks David! I'll let you all know how it went in a few weeks 👍
How did it go?
@@adrianallen3406 I still haven't done it. Money got tight and winter happened. Hopefully I'll get to it by the end of this month.
@@adrianallen3406 I pulled the bank 1 (rear) valve cover and had two cam lobes so badly worn it needed to be replaced. I figured at that point I should see what was up with the other and the cams were ok but there were a few bad rockers. Based on the cost it turned out to be less expensive to replace the motor so it's at a shop having that done now.
Soy salvadoreño......... thanks show me how the tools work and I appreciate your time.saludos desde la Florida USA 🇺🇸 bendiciones
You deserve an award for this video! Probably Chrysler dealer mechanics playing this on their phone as they work. Or we should hope so.
By now I would hope they know this repairs frontwards and backwards lol. Thanks for the kind words
Fantastic video. Getting a view with the timing chain cover off makes it very clear how the tools need to be used. This is glossed over in many of the other videos I've seen on this process. I'm getting ready to do this job, and seeing the video makes me much more comfortable with the process as I approach it. The discussion on camshaft conditions was very helpful. I haven't seen clear guidance on what is acceptable vs unacceptable wear in other videos.
Dear David, another awesome video. You show all the little details and tricks to keep the parts in line and in proper order. I wish more mechanics were as detail oriented as you. Keep up the great work. It's really nice to see how clean stuff is too, even if our shops have messy areas, lets keep this area clean and neat for the video. Great job, I know it took hours to get this edited just right. You did an awesome job man. The sound quality is great, camera angles great, torque sequence proper. Very cool on putting numbers on the bolt heads/Torx. Keep it clean, Jim
Perhaps the best instructional video I have ever seen. All important details discussed, difficult parts well explained, with no fluff. And thank you so much for the torque specifications. Great video!
David. ...u are a master. Thanks so much for these 2 videos. You are #1 in MOPAR info
Always glad to help
I just did this repair on my 2015 Dodge Charger. The tools saved my butt, and we found not one, but TWO lifters going out. CAM shaft was able to be saved in time. Thank you for this video, it was so helpful when we got stuck.
Thank you so much for making this video and covering so much information and specs. . It helped immensely while replacing my lifters and rockers on my 2014 3.6l v6 Durango. Can’t thank you enough!
What was your issue
I closely followed all steps in this two-part series to replace the valvetrain components in the left head of my 2015 Wrangler's ticking 3.6 Pentastar at 60K miles. There was, indeed, a bad lifter and exhaust rocker arm. After a couple of weeks of road and freeway use, the motor is still purring and I'm confident my repair is successful and going to hold up. I could not have done it without your incredible guidance, David! I've been intimidated to get any lower than the top of the valve covers for 30 years since a younger, tool-challenged me screwed up a couple of engines. Yet here I am a short time ago, confidently holding my Jeep's camshaft for reference photos! Furthermore, since I live in Western Washington where parts and repair costs are HEAVILY inflated, between this and my horribly-located PCV valve change, I saved myself nearly $5K! A well-earned gift is coming your way, my friend! Thank you on behalf of my whole family.
Thanks, David. Great series, and thank you for posting both episodes on the same day!
Your welcome.....no need in keeping you waiting for part 2. In the past I use to space them out just. It’s funny looking at the numbers....part 2 has more views then part 1. Guess some are jumping straight to the punch line lol
Great series on Chrysler/VW 3.2 and 3.6 Rocker Arm Replacement. Just finished and your teaching is well advanced above others I have found on the internet! Thank you for your detailed processes!
You make an intimating job look easy! As always, great informative video!
Sometimes its just about seeing it laid out step by step to make it feel easy. I try my best to get as many camera angles to point out those details that others leave out
Second time through these videos and I have a page of notes. I'll be replacing one cam on each side and all of the rockers.
Thank you for guiding us through this.
Love the torque specs, thanks brother
Glad you enjoyed. I try to include them as much as possible when ever I can
probably the most informative repair video i have ever seen, extremely good work
Thank you dav it’s really a great video with a lot of information 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks for taking the time to watch this series
I don't even have this engine but your Part 1 vid was so good I had to see Part 2. It did not disappoint. Thank you for a perfectly clear, fluff-free, informative video.
I appreciate kind words such as this. I’m glad to always hear how much people enjoy the videos.
Thanks For That Video, Just What I Asked For Before...
Your welcome. Been wanting to make it for a long time.
Great detailed video. Just had my 2014 JK rocker arm go bad. Dealer wanted 1800 to fix, I was considering shortcut, until I saw this video. Glad I found it, because the shortcut version made me nervous. The hardest part was the cam sensor and removing the battery tray. Took my time and changed all my rockers on the passenger side, even though it was just one bad one. Now my Jeep purrs like new!
Great job….not an easy repair even for a pro. Appreciate the comment
This is hands down the best video walkthrough of this procedure on RUclips. Thanks for producing and posting it !!!
Thank you. Im about to start on my grand daughter charger.
Just wanted to follow up. Following your instructions, I completed replacing all 4 cams. With Rocker arms and lifters. I discovered 4 busted lifters. Plus the broken rockers arms. I had already removed the intake manifold and valve covers as a preliminary inspection. I put them back in place temporarily until my parts arrived.
This fine morning, I completed the work. I did run into a minor snag. On the left side, the tool to keep the chains loose, popped out, but no problem. I just got the left side cams replaced, took me about 10 minutes of getting the tool back on the head. Then got the work done.
Took me about 4.5 hours total. Then the final assembly. Then the much anticipated start. Rattle for 3 seconds and quieted down. Cleared my codes, did some phazer cleaning with my scan tool. Did the cam learning part. Runs very smooth and quiet.
Thank you sir.
These 2 episodes helped me out a lot brother. Thank you for the awesome help and lesson. Keep it up
This guy is by far the Best Mechanic I have ever seen. I don't trust mechanics due to a bad experience with a couple of them, but I definitely would trust this guy with any of my cars. Great Job.
Brilliantly done. Clear, concise, covered everything I needed to know. Thank you for such a great video on this particular job.
In the middle of doing my rocker arm replacement in a 2014 jeep grand cherokee and was only going to do the one rocker that was bad but this video series has shown me a lot i didnt know about cam shafts and motor timing in the 3.6 these videos have helped me with giving confidence on getting the job done and replacing all 24 rocker arms and lifters in my jeep. This is the first in motor work that I have done to any vehicle being a dyi'er so thank you for putting videos out like this!! For sure has helped me believe I can do more than just bolt on and off parts!
Just wanted to say THANK YOU ❤ I did all my rockers and lifters this eve and being able to just remove the camshaft completely make things so easy. I couldn't have done it without such clear explanations. Thanks again!
Like I tell everyone else that has completed this repair…..may hats off to you on taking on a big job like this. I appreciate you using my videos and for leaving feedback as well. Job well done!
Thank you! Followed your video exactly. Tick gone and saved a ton of money!!
I used this video to repair the right side intake rocker arm problem on 2015 Dodge Grand Caravan. It turned out my camshaft was too damaged to reuse based on observation and advice from video. Without this video I would have been lost. Many thanks!
David is the absolutely GOAT. A master mechanic...definitely...but also has the heart of a teacher and some mad videography skills. It's one thing to know how to do the repair but it's a whole other talent to be able to tell and show others how to do it and yet another level to be able to video it in a way that makes it crystal clear. I've used several of his videos with great success, including this one.
This was the first time I ever pulled a camshaft and it went so smooth it was scary. Found the #4 exhaust rocker arm on the left bank was bad (although, per David's advice, replaced them all) and now no more noise. Take your time, follow his every word, and you'll have zero problems in the tear down/replacement/assembly. Great job!!
I spent a whole day doing this project. Thanks to these videos I have been able to keep my 2015 grand caravan running smooth. Great tips to make working on your vehicle easier.
How much total cost do this job
@@vijaysri2325 I cant remember, but it was just the rockers(bought from dealer), gaskets and cam tensioner tool kit from amazon. Rockers were the biggest expense.
Just want to say, dealer took off $5k on my 2015 GC Summit trade value because of tick. I spent less than $1,400 for all 4 cams, lifters, rockers, gaskets,seals, phaser tools, assembly lube and oil/filter change.
Support this channel. I could and would not have done this without this tutorial.
By far the most thorough and informative video for the rocker arms out there.
Thank you for this. Some other videos on how to perrform this repair are real hack jobs, but you recommend using the correct tools and methods to do the job right. My 300C with 105,000 miles started ticking and these two videos made the job easy.
Thanks for the step by step and the tool info. After seeing people replace ONE rocker arm it always bugged me as to...
"What if the others go bad..."
I've worked Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Chevy and Ford as a tech. You are definitely top notch. Again thanks👍🏿
Under warranty, chrysler only pays to replace the ones which failed. Kinda ridiculous. But that's how cheapskate warranties work
Just wanted to say thanks for your videos!! My town and country developed the tick and had a bad rocker arm. Thanks to your video i was able to replace them all myself! And you saved me money from buying a new RI camshaft with your other video on when to reuse. Your awesome dude!
Love your videos! This is not your first video I have used. My dad and I are planning on tackling this job on his 2014 Town and Country with over 235k miles. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Getting ready to do this job tomorrow on a 2012 200. Got the 24 rockers and lifters in a oil bath. Fantastic 2 part video series. I've done a few of these and your dead on as far as information goes. This is the best on you tube.
I’m
A pretty qualified mechanic and these videos save me a ton thanks man!
Followed, repair successful. 53k mile JKU trail toy back up and purring after following this. Thank you for the info. Awesome video
Great job on taking on this big repair.
These two videos you made were perfect. ALMOST I say almost because one small thing that could have been pointed out could have saved me from having to buy an engine. You covered every little detail and every little problem that could come up making the whole job run very smoothly except for I. Small but very important tip. When torquing down the oil control valves, DO NOT RELY SOLELY ON THE LOCKING BLOCK. Use a crescent wrench on the hex on the camshaft as an additional safety to maintain cam shaft position. Unfortunately, my locking block failed and I rotated the camshaft independent from the engine pushing the valves I to the piston. I didn’t realize how badly I messed it up till I fully reassembled the job and went to crank it with zero compression. I had to buy a new engine as I was already in past my comfort level with this job and had nowhere near the experience to go further Into it. This little tip could have saved me $6300. Aside from my mishap, everything else was perfect in this video and went as smooth as can be. I’m confident I could successfully do the job now but I wish I had this bit of information before and only saw it after the fact.
That's a tough pill to swallow. There's definitely a fair amount of risk for someone taking on a job like this without being a trained/experienced mechanic. If you would have verified that the timing was correct before attempting to start the engine, you would have caught your error and prevented the damage.
Thank you very much for the excellent videos on this Pentastar engine. My 3.6 L was ticking so I took the top off the engine with your help. I was just going to replace the one sloppy but working rocker on #5 which was the only cylinder throwing a code. I wasn’t going to pull the valve cover on the left side. But I then decided to replace all the rockers and lifters. I discovered about 6 spongy lifters on both sides and about 3 rockers that had rollers that were a little sloppy. BUT I had a rocker arm roller seized on the driver side intake that didn’t even throw a code! That cam lobe was almost perfectly round! So, 24 lifters, 24 rockers, and one new cam, all Melling brand. I immediately changed the oil and filter and have put a couple thousand miles on it…..no clicking and no engine lights!
Parts were close to 1,000 bucks but much better than the $5,000 the dealership wanted.
THANKYOU for helping give this electrician the confidence to tackle this project!
David - this two part series, along with your video where you recommended to upgrade the 2013 Jeep Wrangler JK oil filter housing to the 2014 model, gave my son Austin and me the confidence to tackle the replacement of the left side rocker arms, followers, and cam shafts, the oil cooler housing, and all six spark plugs all at the same time. We spent last Saturday and Sunday taking it slow and easy and constantly referring back to your videos. It was such a good feeling when we started the engine and the ticking and CEL for the oil pressure sensor were both gone! Thanks so much for producing these videos and taking the time to explain the process so that non-mechanics can understand it to the point of actually giving it a try. We have never been this deep into an engine before. It was a little scary, but it worked out just as you said it would. We have subscribed to your channel and look forward to learning something new each time.
David, you pay attention to detail, and your instructions are right on target! There's only one way to do to do the job right, and that's with the right tools and torque! I wish more videos were explained in detail like you do! Thank You!
Thank you once again. You saved me from buying a service manual to use once. :)
Glad I could help and thanks for find the channel and the videos. Make sure to subscribe
Your two videos on this were outstanding; helped this DYI complete this repair in his garage. Thorough and understandable. Thank you.
Awesome. Glad it worked our well for you and thanks for watching and using the video.
HUGE Thank you! I can barely change my oil and I followed every step of this 2 part series and was able to replace my cam shaft, rocker arms, and lifters. I was able to get back on the road in no time and drove back to Louisiana from Michigan with no issues!
By far the best and most detailed mopar channel out there!! Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge!!
This video and the part 1 gave me the confidence to tackle this repair on my own...saved me hundreds of dollars if not more.
David thank you, Not that is an easy job. You make this a step by step process. Your proficiency is evident, the visual information is amazing. You have the best information on this topic! If your ever in the Pensacola FL area, hit me up I owe you a beer!
Thank you, David! Excellent video! While I'm not sure I can handle the job myself on my 2012 Town and Country, I feel I can now speak intelligently with the dealer about the repair. Thanks again!
While most will do this with the engine still in the car, these videos give a great visualization of what you're doing
Main reason I did this series out of the car was main so that I could show everything is more detail, too much can be seen well enough in the car on some vehicle. Thanks for watching Mike!
Awesome and clear instructions, I just finished this repair on my 2013 Wrangler. When I started her up she runs smooth but during my test drive the check engine light came on with a P0365 error code for the camshaft position sensor bank one sensor two. The cam I replaced was the intake cam. Maybe I damaged the sensor during removal? All the cables look to be in good condition and are firmly seated running to the sensor.
The engine runs fine and isn't misfiring but I have only taken it on local roads and not up to highway speeds yet as I don't want to damage any components.
I should also mention that the dash indicator for the stability control indicator is also permanently illuminated.
Thank you so much for this video. I was easily able to replace the bad rocker and the chewed up cam shaft on my wife’s van because you took the time to do this…..Very much appreciated
Wow. This guy is a real mechanic and great instructor. I am almost feeing comfortable-doing the job
Awesome video. Simple, precise and to the point. This has literally become a Father’s Day tradition for my son and I.
We’ve had the pleasure of doing this job 3 times in the last 4 years! Lesson learned… My advice is do all the rockers/lifters on (at least) each full bank. If you gotta go in, do them all. They will continue to fail. We originally did intake, next year had to do exhaust on same bank . 2 years later it’s happening on the other bank, so we’re doing all 12, intake and exhaust !
120,000 miles and my son’s Jeep Wrangler Unlimited is still going strong. So it’s worth it.