I'm doing a 3.6 right now that a big franchise shop installed the wrong filter and she even questioned the oil light and they said it would go out! needless to say it didn't make it 6 miles and it started knocking. She told me what happened and I unscrewed the cap to find a crushed and upside down oil filter. they literally smashed it in to the point it starved the engine of oil. Any mechanic with half a brain should have known something was wrong. Sad part is they told her it was ok to drive. Well customers getting a new crate 3.6 and the place is paying! Nice video hope more people watch and learn the difference!
I did this exact same swap on a family member's 3.6 equipped vehicle. I made a nice, bright orange, laminated sign and fastened it under the hood alerting the next tech of the superseded part. A professional courtesy, if you will. As always, great video. Thanks for taking the time to post it.
@@DanMcD80 I'm thinking some bright color paint pin......they have to really look close when engraved to see if its something thats not suppose to be....almost like a casting mark they put on them.
Your an excellent instructor. Thank you for your very informative advice and visual tutorials. Your a very smart guy and thousands of people appreciate your help.
Many thanks for the kind words. Its much appreciated. Its cool to see the videos helping people and hearing from people that enjoy it. Dont forget to subscribe.
The best description of my 2013 filter assembly problem I've seen. Spring had to be found 2 oil changes ago and now my bypass poppet is broken. Small piece of plastic broke off it and fell down the oil drain stem to somewhere in the engine. Hoping pressure will push it back up into the filter housing and I will find it on the outside of the filter. Gonna have to pop that filter off to find it! Gonna fill it up and run it( w/ a couple of checks for that piece)! Other option is to tear the intake plastic off and replace the filter assembly( no guarantee I can find the plastic piece). Grabbing a new relief poppet and spring. Thanks for being thorough!
The best part of this video is that people with 2014 and newer wranglers that have these oil filter housings failing to the point the mopar and all of the aftermarket manufacturers are back ordered 6+ months 40k units. Can see that instead of making 6 months worth of car payments for a vehicle you cant drive. you can simply install one of the older housings for $100 and be on the road. Thanks for the video and comparisons.
Exactly.....you can upgrade or downgrade if needed if worse comes to worse. What ever it takes to get it back on the road for sure. Thanks for watching and for the comment. Make sure to subscribe
Definitely the clearest, most concise and well spoken host on any of the Automotive related channels not only RUclips but also that includes the high end speakers from commercial equipment and technical training course instructors I have viewed and sat in on over the past 45 some odd years. A++ "Right Tech!" PS some folks may recognise the last phrase.🔧🔧
I feel like it should be mentioned that the late-model is prone to failure due to its plastic construction just like the older one. The cast aluminum, Dorman-made after market is the only choice for not having to do this replacement ever again. Since it is shaped like the late-model plastic it should slide right into the older engine as well.
@@Japplesnapthe gaskets fail because of the plastic housing design, it flexes whenever an oil change is performed and the filter is replaced. The aluminum upgrade eliminates the flexing and the gaskets should not have any issues
@@mechanix1945 There are already many people who had to remove their aluminum housing after the gaskets failed. Like everywhere else on an engine, gaskets eventually fail no matter what.
Great advice on the oil change service reminder. I removed and replaced my oil filter housing on my 2013 JK about two months and elected to keep it the same year model part for the reason you mentioned at the end of the video. Even though I change the oil myself, I felt it was the best route to take in the long run. Also, I have a money-saving tip, when I went to my local Jeep dealer to purchase the part, I asked them to match an Internet price I showed them on my mobile device and they came down in price enough that I purchased the part from the dealer at $220. Thanks, MotorCity for another great video!
Great tip. I always recommend people check with the wholesale dealers online for the best price. Cool to see that some dealers match the internet prices.
@@MotorCityMechanic A question why replace a plastic oil cooler that has failed with the exact same plastic cooler which is prone to fail like the one you just replaced ? If it was me I would try the metal one next at least it stands a chance of not cracking like that plastic piece of junk
I absolutely put my o-ring in the wrong location on my 2016. Took about 3 months for the leak to develop, but lo and behold it did. Your video is absolutely fantastic for showing me exactly what I did wrong! Thank you!
Good video. The one thing everyone making this video never talks about is the valve that's part of the filter. The bypass valve pushes on the filter valve keeping the bypass closed. When you buy a new filter for the 2011 through 2013 this shutoff valve should come with the new filter. If you install a new filter without the shutoff valve in the new filter the bypass can't function properly. Some retailers sell mopar and off brand filters without the shutoff valve in the filter. If you get a new filter without the shutoff valve just take the one from your old filter and put it in the new one. That is if you don't break it or if it even has one from the last oil change. I normally get a wix filter, the shutoff valve is included. There are retailers that sell mopar filters without the shutoff valve. That's how they get them at a discount. If you pay to get you oil changed you never know if that valve came with your new filter. Byer be ware. Nothing will happen, you just won't be filtering any oil. The bypass can't function properly.
Ya, that's what they were telling me too. I looked up the part, $75. I'm like, okay, it can't be that difficult. Several RUclips videos later, I bought $100 worth of tools including picks, prys, removal tools, a new ¼" torque wrench, 4 hours later and boom. Back on the road.
David, such a great video and the points you make were great. Mine is a 2014 3.6. I went with the Dorman aluminum housing. I hope that will eliminate the future issues. thank you.
I had the tower bypass valve fail on my 2011 canavan- went to the new one and it's been great the last 2 years. Made a big tag for the filter cap just in case. Thanks for the videos!!
just the video I needed. I'm replacing mine in our VW Routan and ordered the newer aluminum housing. Didn't know there was a difference and worried I had to send it back. Now I can continue. Not worried about oil changes since I do them myself.
Me and my brother just did this to my 13 challenger and when we got to the oil filter part we were thinking we had to take it all apart again and order the correct year part.. you saved us so much agony thanks for clarifying in great detail. You’re awesome !
Thanks for all your great videos..My bypass valve finally broke off after 145,000 mi and I remembered from one of your previous videos you were working with Dorman to make a replacement. Bought one for about $25 and you saved me several hundred dollars and no down time.
Hard to see anyone changing their own oil filter housing and than having another person change oil for them. I think that is not a factor. Definitely want to communicate this to any potential new owners. Great video.. Im pondering upgrading unit now. Thank you.
I had to change my 2014 because of the oil leak problem I used your video on how to do that I ordered mine from either eBay or Amazon I had a problem getting it to seat I had to push extremely hard but it has worked so far no issue
MYSTERY SOLVED!! The problem was definitely the OSIAS part being mis -designed/engineered/manufactured. We purchased a 2014 Mopar Oil Filter Housing (for our 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan) yesterday and just installed it. Runs like a gem! DEFINITELY recommend the upgrade; it sav ed us $100, and I'd recommend the Mopar as the manufacturer. THANK YOU, MOTORCITY MECHANIC FOR THE RECOMMENDATION!!
I've got a 2013 and I did a oil change and filter didn't fit right but I got it on then a code p06dd came on.Your video shows the difference in oil filter covers.thank you, I'm going to change filters and hope it's not broken.Your video was very helpful. You guys ROCK!!! Keep up the good work!!!!!
I have 2011 charger 3.6 and i did the upgrade , but the oil pressure go over 650 psi and stay there even if the car in idle or befor starting engine , i don't know whay *,* !!! , thanks for amazing work u doing you're the best .
Glad I saw this in time, I'm doing the same job on my 2013 wrangler. Dealership wants $430 for mine. The oil leak was deceiving though, it looked like a rear main seal leaking, after getting to the last 2 bolts on the transmission I realized the oil was dumping into the wire harness, in through the starter then out the rubber plugs at the bottom of the bell housing.
Been waiting on the dealership. Those coolers are on back order and it's been a week now. I have the whole manifold apart just waiting. The wife is not to happy.
We have a late 2013 Durango and it has the 2014 style housing. We purchased the vehicle at 20K. miles and nobody had done maintenance to it. The very first time we had the oil changed, the "tech" managed to get that 2013 style filter in there and wouldn't you know it...Wife drives off and instantly it goes into limp mode...so yes, where there is a will, there is a way.
My best update was get rid of my 13 year wrangler and got my self an Acura MDX 2022 after been tiered of fixing oil and coolant leaks and replaced transmission at 36,000 miles Good luck with jeeps.
My 2013 RAM had the plastic one and I had change it because it was warped. The aluminum upgrade worked out great. The only difference now is the oil filter looks like the one for the 2014.
This is VERY helpful information. I own a 2013 Charger with the 3.6L. I have 171,500 km+ (106,500 miles) on my vehicle and have changed the oil AND filter every 7,000 km. (4,350 miles) You have alerted me to a potential problem - Thank You.
The biggest problem is oil change places over tightening. From day 1 I put a white marker line on the housing and that's where I stop. I'm the only one that's touched my 2015 3.6 Durango ..
Dave I'm glad you brought that point up about the newer oil filter I had one on Saturday & when I pulled the old filter out it looked like the new style filter. Now it makes sence,,, I kind of thought that's what had happened ! Thank's Dave !
Thank you for letting us know that the parts are compatible this was in the back of my head for a long time, every time I change my oil filter I was afraid the part would break, and now I know I can replace it for a non defective option. Thanks
I have been waiting on someone to lose an eye lol. I take one of the older caps off and back up and wait to see if it will break and come flying out. Thanks for watching
Exellent video! One thing I would do if I changed a filter assembly out is that I would make a large sticker and place it by the filter. I would give the new filter number to use on the sticker stating that the filter housing has been updated.
Just a note. They didn't eliminate the bypass valve. It is in the filter cap in the new version. They can also break but it's not as common. I think it's a cold weather problem!
Great video. You literally solved a problem I thought I had. I installed an aluminum housing by Dorman onto my ‘13 300. I found out that the filter was different fortunately the new housing came with a filter. I will make sure I mark the cap to show it takes a ‘14 filter. Another difference I found is that the Dorman looks like your new housing but mine did not drop straight down into place like yours did. I had to start about 4” to the rear and drop the front of the housing in first before moving the housing forward into place. The new angle we’re hitting the intake opening stopping it from dropping straight down. Got it installed and seems to be working fine. Btw I found it on Amazon for $104.
I have a 2016 T&C assembled in Dec 2015 that has the older version oil filter housing. All the catalogs and references do point to the wrong filter for the year and model of the car. I bought it used, so I don't know if all the previous owners used the proper filters...although the proper filter was on it when I made my first oil change.
Well, I think we diagnosed the issue. We ordered the (2011) OSIAS Oil Filter Housing and had a rough time with the oil-in receptacle...again. Since we had the right year we HOPED it would install better than the 2014 but it did not. Once installed we started the car and looked at the oil-in receptacle...which was seeping!!!! I am going to assume it is the brand (OSIAS) and that the oil-in has been incorrectly engineered. We are going to try a Mopar. Thank you, again!!
I just replaced the oil filter relief valve today. I noticed that the last time I changed the oil, the valve was damaged. I happened upon this video when I was researching what the broken piece I found was and how to repair it. I drove to Florida and back (3600 mile trip) with the broken piece in there. (I had already deduced it was going to be okay until the next oil change, so I decided to wait until next oil change, which happened to be 1 month away). I snapped in the new valve into the stem. Well, part of the stem cracked. I went ahead and installed the new valve anyways. 3 of the 4 snaps engaged the stem and the valve is securely in place. It is something I need to keep an eye on when I do my future oil changes. I really don't like the thought of replacing the oil filter housing. I have a 2013 T/C and now when I send my wife to the store, I'm assured I'll get the correct oil filter. If (when) the time occurs when I need to replace the oil filter housing, I will weigh the options and use the best housing I can. Having a numbers correct filter is excellent, but having a financially viable option is also tempting. I'll face that problem when I get there. My 13 Town and Country has 168k miles on it.
@@MotorCityMechanic Tru. The pushrod factor was more of a concern for me but it hasn't been on the3.8 Chrysler engine for over ten years now. I guess depending on the treatment or maintenance the worst pushrod engine to me is the 3100 series on the ratling GM V6, where some of the rocker-arms/retaining bolts pop off/out of the head threads. Hence, the procedure of re-threading which is an iffy situation could be a pain.
Thanks Kevin for watching. Its hard to tell if the o-rings or the housing in most cases when it becomes submerged in oil lol. I just replace the unit....I rather not have to do the same job twice lol. Appreciate the comment and make sure to subscribe.
Thanks for the video.... I did this exact change about two years ago on my 2012 JKU. The tower assembly fired out like a cannon while I was changing out oil filters....
Excellent video. Thank you. I like finding out why something works or doesn’t work. I also like finding out why an upgrade/change should or shouldn’t be done.
Just my two cents worth of information on the oil filter/cooler. Mine started leaking like most do !, the problem i see on them is the bad type of rubber on the O rings, I see the new one you have has different O rings, this could be a better oil resistant nitrial or butal rubber than what was used on older models. The oil filter unit wasn't bad it self, just bad O rings, They get hard from the constant heating and cooling effect, Dodge did not use good O rings . You can get new O rings for the bottom part that mates up the the engine , but you can't get the O rings between the cooler and plastic case. I did find oil filter/cooler for around 160$. You just need to look around a little. Nice explanation on the different fit though. If mine goes out again i will switch to the newer style. My car is a 2012 charger 3.6L, 220000 thousand miles on it now. Keep up the good work David !!! 👍👍👍
Its one of those things....is it the o-rings that you cant see or the housing, I am sure the o-rings can be the cause but when it comes to the repair.....in my mind I rather do it only once incase I replaced the o-rings and thats not the cause. So I replace the assembly when possible to be 100% sure. Thanks for the comment and two cents.
4:23 I have a 2013 Dodge Avenger SE 3.6L V6 and surprisingly enough... I have the oil filter housing cap that has the cut outs and I have no tower in my filter housing, unless a mechanic broke it at some point during an oil change. Should I be using the newer filter style, regardless of the year. I don't have a good experience changing the oil on cars without metal filters down below, so this is new knowledge to me, albeit easier to work with.
I wish I had know that these could be updated. I finally got around to replacing mine last summer after getting called out for leaving an oil spot on my sister-in-law's driveway.
Its one of those things we learned over time. Glad you got it fixed in the mean time. If it happens again.....which I hope it doesnt.....you will know what to do. Thanks for commenting and make sure to subscribe.
The 2014 and newer design has been revised numerous times to correct this and the seals updated as well. When you go to buy the housing at the dealer you will get the latest and greatest that is "suppose" to not leak again. If we were dealing with a 2014 assembly that never revised then I would say no dont use.....thats not the case. They know about the leaks on 2014 and made changes. Thanks for watching Luke.
@@CedroCron Very true......that Squeak is when you stop. There were some design issues with the 2014 where they had access holes for internal ports/passages that were capped off that would have a leak at these areas plus the seals would flatten out due to the heat and not seal correctly. Thats another reason why the seals on the newer version are a different color.
@@MotorCityMechanic I bought a 2011 and didn't know about this issue. Ordered 2x 2011 filters and when to change it. Since it looked different I took precaution nd when started engine it was only 50psi. Stopped it and put the old one back in and went to buy the right filter and switched it. Problem is the 2011 o ring was fat. I didn't realize either and it took a lot to torque so I guess I cracked the housing so it's leaking now. When I get a new 2014+ housing what color should the upgraded version o-rings be so I know I am getting the newest version?
@@MotorCityMechanic the 2015 housings certainly do crack. My wrangler has 46000 miles. I've always done my own oil changes and always tighten the oil filter to factory torque setting at 18 lbs ft. Just a week ago oil was leaking everywhere from the filter housing. Cheap plastic junk. Jeep needs to make this a recall.
I just bought a 2014 Ram Tradesman c/v and my first oil change the mechanic had a hard time matching the oil filter because he had to use a 2013 filter to match the one in it . So the assembly has been replaced before I bought it. I may just have to change it back to original because they will have to take the intake off to change the plugs.
Great video. Just purchased a 2012 T&C. Will have to poke my head under the hood a bit. This and the plastic bypass hose video you posted are two things I will have to check out. Thanks again.
Love your videos!! We have a 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan and ordered the 2014 (Osias) replacement. Got it installed and found oil all over the ground. Took everything back out and found the O ring on the housing oil-in receptacle broke. It was VERY difficult/tight to install so it wasn't surprising it broke. I had liberally greased the O-ring grooves prior to installation. It was equally difficult/tight to uninstall. I had measured the OD of the pipe prior to installing which was the same. HOWEVER, the O-ring groove on the 2014 is not as deep by .030". I had to uninstall it and am waiting for the 2011 part. Just a heads up to those considering the change over.
You can write on the cap "2014 filter" with a white ink marker for that 2011, then any new owner to that vehicle will know. Most mechanics will figure it out and prevent forcing a filter not designed for that housing. Mostly diy's will make this mistake as a lot of car owners like to change their own oil. I think. lol
I was thinking about trying this on my 2011 Grand Cherokee, but it was covered under warranty. I suspected that it was over tightened the last time the oil was changed. I'm doing all oil changes from now on. And I can do full synthetic for half the price and take my time and be careful. No need to tighten something with an o-ring that tight.
Thank you so much very informative video. I better upgrade to the 2014 oil filter cause here in Kenya 🇰🇪 it’s not easy getting parts and they cost way more .
Ive got a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. Replaced two of the oil cooler adapters and looks like I'm gonna have to replace for a third time. Thinking of going with the 2014 adapter.
Is a common point of failure in Jeep wranglers. The housing cracks sending oil in the cylinder valley which streams down the transmission. Wonder if the w ill ever do a recall or fix the design??? Best video I've seen on this issue.thanks
Very informative video! I ran into the problem with the oil filter tower becoming unseated in my 2013 T&C. However, I was told by my dad (previous owner) to just install the filter over top of the tower nice and square to reseat it. So far no oil pressure problems and the dirty ness of the filter indicates the oil is likely flowing through normally I was curious from a mechanics perspective what you might know that makes this a bad idea, and if I should just suck up the costs and replace the oil filter housing
David, this video fits in nicely with something I've found to worry about. My 2012 JK's startup valve noise might be getting louder, in spite of using Amsoil, so, because I recently discovered how to do it, I no longer use my beloved remote start but instead use the trick of holding the brake and flooring the gas so it turns over, and pumps oil, without starting. .... And I just discovered the Baxter Performance Cartridge to Spin-on Adapter and I'd appreciate knowing what you know about that.
I’m wondering if what your hearing is a cam phaser rattling until it locks up. Otherwise valve train noise in start up isn’t a normal issue. I’m thinking you have a phaser issue. Here is a link to a video I did that shows the issue ruclips.net/video/hLexS1UhkmE/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Thank you for the great content. Just replaced mine on 2015 200c w 48000 miles on odometer. Makes a oily mess of the drivetrain and fun to clean out all the excess oil from the galley. Hope the replacement lasts a bit longer than the last one!😁🙃
I had the bypass valve inside the cap fail on my 2014 Ram CV, I have no idea how long this was broken or where the broken valve went. The only reason I noticed was the spring would just rattle around. I recommend changing the cap if the spring is loose and rattling around in the cap. Hank
Just changed my filter and did notice that the spring is still there but there is no cap holding the spring it just rattles in the tube. Honestly don't know how long its been missing. Is there a cap that you can replace back on to the spring or do you just have to replace the hole housing? Also if i don't replace the cap or housing what kind of damage is it doing???
This guy's channel is complete with regard to details , the best i have viewed. Thank you
I'm doing a 3.6 right now that a big franchise shop installed the wrong filter and she even questioned the oil light and they said it would go out! needless to say it didn't make it 6 miles and it started knocking. She told me what happened and I unscrewed the cap to find a crushed and upside down oil filter. they literally smashed it in to the point it starved the engine of oil. Any mechanic with half a brain should have known something was wrong. Sad part is they told her it was ok to drive. Well customers getting a new crate 3.6 and the place is paying! Nice video hope more people watch and learn the difference!
Just the information I needed. Since I have to change the part because of a coolant leak, now I know it's time to upgrade!
I did this exact same swap on a family member's 3.6 equipped vehicle. I made a nice, bright orange, laminated sign and fastened it under the hood alerting the next tech of the superseded part. A professional courtesy, if you will.
As always, great video. Thanks for taking the time to post it.
Awesome....great idea. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment Brandon.
Before reading this post was thinking could use an engraver and mark the cap with 2014+ conversion
Paint pen on the filter cap.
@@drucifer_too Thats my thoughts as well. Thanks Andrew.
@@DanMcD80 I'm thinking some bright color paint pin......they have to really look close when engraved to see if its something thats not suppose to be....almost like a casting mark they put on them.
Clear and concise... Thanks also to Eric O for referring me to your channel. Great subject matter, cheers....
Many thanks for making it over to my channel. Appreciate the kind words as well
Your an excellent instructor. Thank you for your very informative advice and visual tutorials. Your a very smart guy and thousands of people appreciate your help.
Many thanks for the kind words. Its much appreciated. Its cool to see the videos helping people and hearing from people that enjoy it. Dont forget to subscribe.
My god! You are a passionate guy who care about all details . AAA video. I’m 30 Y.O. Experience mecanic guy here!
The best description of my 2013 filter assembly problem I've seen. Spring had to be found 2 oil changes ago and now my bypass poppet is broken. Small piece of plastic broke off it and fell down the oil drain stem to somewhere in the engine. Hoping pressure will push it back up into the filter housing and I will find it on the outside of the filter. Gonna have to pop that filter off to find it! Gonna fill it up and run it( w/ a couple of checks for that piece)! Other option is to tear the intake plastic off and replace the filter assembly( no guarantee I can find the plastic piece). Grabbing a new relief poppet and spring. Thanks for being thorough!
The best part of this video is that people with 2014 and newer wranglers that have these oil filter housings failing to the point the mopar and all of the aftermarket manufacturers are back ordered 6+ months 40k units. Can see that instead of making 6 months worth of car payments for a vehicle you cant drive. you can simply install one of the older housings for $100 and be on the road. Thanks for the video and comparisons.
Exactly.....you can upgrade or downgrade if needed if worse comes to worse. What ever it takes to get it back on the road for sure. Thanks for watching and for the comment. Make sure to subscribe
Definitely the clearest, most concise and well spoken host on any of the Automotive related channels not only RUclips but also that includes the high end speakers from commercial equipment and technical training course instructors I have viewed and sat in on over the past 45 some odd years. A++ "Right Tech!" PS some folks may recognise the last phrase.🔧🔧
I feel like it should be mentioned that the late-model is prone to failure due to its plastic construction just like the older one. The cast aluminum, Dorman-made after market is the only choice for not having to do this replacement ever again. Since it is shaped like the late-model plastic it should slide right into the older engine as well.
Well you will be replacing the gaskets when they give out at 30-50,00 miles
Im in the same situation. Why do these gaskets keep failing
@@juanmcsweeney4503
@@juanmcsweeney4503 Exactly. The housing isn't the only issue....the gaskets fail too and that means it still needs to be fixed.
@@Japplesnapthe gaskets fail because of the plastic housing design, it flexes whenever an oil change is performed and the filter is replaced. The aluminum upgrade eliminates the flexing and the gaskets should not have any issues
@@mechanix1945 There are already many people who had to remove their aluminum housing after the gaskets failed. Like everywhere else on an engine, gaskets eventually fail no matter what.
Great advice on the oil change service reminder. I removed and replaced my oil filter housing on my 2013 JK about two months and elected to keep it the same year model part for the reason you mentioned at the end of the video. Even though I change the oil myself, I felt it was the best route to take in the long run. Also, I have a money-saving tip, when I went to my local Jeep dealer to purchase the part, I asked them to match an Internet price I showed them on my mobile device and they came down in price enough that I purchased the part from the dealer at $220. Thanks, MotorCity for another great video!
Great tip. I always recommend people check with the wholesale dealers online for the best price. Cool to see that some dealers match the internet prices.
@@MotorCityMechanic A question why replace a plastic oil cooler that has failed with the exact same plastic cooler which is prone to fail like the one you just replaced ? If it was me I would try the metal one next at least it stands a chance of not cracking like that plastic piece of junk
I absolutely put my o-ring in the wrong location on my 2016. Took about 3 months for the leak to develop, but lo and behold it did. Your video is absolutely fantastic for showing me exactly what I did wrong! Thank you!
Good video. The one thing everyone making this video never talks about is the valve that's part of the filter. The bypass valve pushes on the filter valve keeping the bypass closed. When you buy a new filter for the 2011 through 2013 this shutoff valve should come with the new filter. If you install a new filter without the shutoff valve in the new filter the bypass can't function properly. Some retailers sell mopar and off brand filters without the shutoff valve in the filter. If you get a new filter without the shutoff valve just take the one from your old filter and put it in the new one. That is if you don't break it or if it even has one from the last oil change. I normally get a wix filter, the shutoff valve is included. There are retailers that sell mopar filters without the shutoff valve. That's how they get them at a discount. If you pay to get you oil changed you never know if that valve came with your new filter. Byer be ware. Nothing will happen, you just won't be filtering any oil. The bypass can't function properly.
Finally someone who's not blowing smoke. Thank you I'm now subscribed.
Got quoted close 1000 to get this work done. Found the part on Amazon for 96 dollars. Only had to buy an E8 torx and I’m good to go.
Ya, that's what they were telling me too. I looked up the part, $75. I'm like, okay, it can't be that difficult. Several RUclips videos later, I bought $100 worth of tools including picks, prys, removal tools, a new ¼" torque wrench, 4 hours later and boom. Back on the road.
David, such a great video and the points you make were great. Mine is a 2014 3.6. I went with the Dorman aluminum housing. I hope that will eliminate the future issues. thank you.
great information here. Aluminum housing is that way to go.
I had the tower bypass valve fail on my 2011 canavan- went to the new one and it's been great the last 2 years. Made a big tag for the filter cap just in case. Thanks for the videos!!
Great idea and thanks for commenting Mathieu!
just the video I needed. I'm replacing mine in our VW Routan and ordered the newer aluminum housing. Didn't know there was a difference and worried I had to send it back. Now I can continue. Not worried about oil changes since I do them myself.
Me and my brother just did this to my 13 challenger and when we got to the oil filter part we were thinking we had to take it all apart again and order the correct year part.. you saved us so much agony thanks for clarifying in great detail. You’re awesome !
Thanks for all your great videos..My bypass valve finally broke off after 145,000 mi and I remembered from one of your previous videos you were working with Dorman to make a replacement. Bought one for about $25 and you saved me several hundred dollars and no down time.
Thanks for following the channel. Like I tell people....you might not need to know this stuff now but one day you will lol.
Where did you get it from for $25?
Hard to see anyone changing their own oil filter housing and than having another person change oil for them. I think that is not a factor. Definitely want to communicate this to any potential new owners. Great video.. Im pondering upgrading unit now. Thank you.
I had to change my 2014 because of the oil leak problem I used your video on how to do that I ordered mine from either eBay or Amazon I had a problem getting it to seat I had to push extremely hard but it has worked so far no issue
Thanks Randy for using my videos to take on those types of repairs. I greatly appreciate it.
MYSTERY SOLVED!! The problem was definitely the OSIAS part being mis -designed/engineered/manufactured. We purchased a 2014 Mopar Oil Filter Housing (for our 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan) yesterday and just installed it. Runs like a gem! DEFINITELY recommend the upgrade; it sav ed us $100, and I'd recommend the Mopar as the manufacturer. THANK YOU, MOTORCITY MECHANIC FOR THE RECOMMENDATION!!
Hey David, just wanted to say you are extremely talented on all levels. 👍🏼
Thanks Stevie, appreciate that vote of confidence
Great video. Good news, the new coolers are all aluminum and come with the gasket set. And sensors already installed for 80 bucks.
I've got a 2013 and I did a oil change and filter didn't fit right but I got it on then a code p06dd came on.Your video shows the difference in oil filter covers.thank you, I'm going to change filters and hope it's not broken.Your video was very helpful. You guys ROCK!!! Keep up the good work!!!!!
Yeah sounds like they may have done the swap….I did one today as well.
Appreciate the kind words as well!
I have 2011 charger 3.6 and i did the upgrade , but the oil pressure go over 650 psi and stay there even if the car in idle or befor starting engine , i don't know whay *,* !!! ,
thanks for amazing work u doing you're the best .
Glad I saw this in time, I'm doing the same job on my 2013 wrangler. Dealership wants $430 for mine. The oil leak was deceiving though, it looked like a rear main seal leaking, after getting to the last 2 bolts on the transmission I realized the oil was dumping into the wire harness, in through the starter then out the rubber plugs at the bottom of the bell housing.
Been waiting on the dealership. Those coolers are on back order and it's been a week now. I have the whole manifold apart just waiting. The wife is not to happy.
OMG....i so wish I had seem this video before Wednesday....i just installed a new oil cooler on my 2012 Chrysler town and country.
I just picked up an aluminum oil filter, adapter for my 2020 ram 1500. Going to be installing this in a couple of weeks.
I don't plan to update my Jeep. But I do appreciate the education.
We have a late 2013 Durango and it has the 2014 style housing. We purchased the vehicle at 20K. miles and nobody had done maintenance to it. The very first time we had the oil changed, the "tech" managed to get that 2013 style filter in there and wouldn't you know it...Wife drives off and instantly it goes into limp mode...so yes, where there is a will, there is a way.
I have a 2012 Durango. I’m in need of a replacement now. Would you recommend the upgrade?
thanks alot I plan to update the oil filter housing in my 2013 tc,. I also plan to change Sparks plug and Pcv valve together
Baxter Performance makes a check valve to prevent dry starts which are killing these engines. It accepts a spin on filter. It’s a must.
My best update was get rid of my 13 year wrangler and got my self an Acura MDX 2022 after been tiered of fixing oil and coolant leaks and replaced transmission at 36,000 miles
Good luck with jeeps.
Hey little brother thank you for your kindness I really appreciate all the information you gave me Jorge Garcia Dallas Texas
Thank you mine just broke 85000 you saved me money my wife and I both have 13 wranglers thank you
My 2013 RAM had the plastic one and I had change it because it was warped. The aluminum upgrade worked out great. The only difference now is the oil filter looks like the one for the 2014.
Id really like to see a complete rebuild tutorial on the 3.6 pentastar. that would be super cool.
I do eventually want to do a chain video but they never fail but would be good to know how to time up if fully disassembled
This is VERY helpful information. I own a 2013 Charger with the 3.6L. I have 171,500 km+ (106,500 miles) on my vehicle and have changed the oil AND filter every 7,000 km. (4,350 miles) You have alerted me to a potential problem - Thank You.
The biggest problem is oil change places over tightening. From day 1 I put a white marker line on the housing and that's where I stop. I'm the only one that's touched my 2015 3.6 Durango ..
Dave I'm glad you brought that point up about the newer oil filter I had one on Saturday & when I pulled the old filter out it looked like the new style filter. Now it makes sence,,, I kind of thought that's what had happened ! Thank's Dave !
Doing this repair now on my 2012 Jeep Wrangler. Glad I came across this video. You also earned another subscriber! Thanks!
Many many thanks!
at 2:44 - The bypass valve is also pricey when it shoots off and become several pieces.
Thank you for letting us know that the parts are compatible this was in the back of my head for a long time, every time I change my oil filter I was afraid the part would break, and now I know I can replace it for a non defective option. Thanks
I have been waiting on someone to lose an eye lol. I take one of the older caps off and back up and wait to see if it will break and come flying out. Thanks for watching
Exellent video! One thing I would do if I changed a filter assembly out is that I would make a large sticker and place it by the filter. I would give the new filter number to use on the sticker stating that the filter housing has been updated.
Just a note. They didn't eliminate the bypass valve. It is in the filter cap in the new version. They can also break but it's not as common. I think it's a cold weather problem!
Was going to same the same thing here, but I figured someone else would have mentioned it by now.
just did my oil filter assembly a few days ago, wish i woulda seen this vid! great vid by the way! very detailed and helpful tips!
Thanks for watching and sorry you didnt catch it in time. Make sure to watch my other videos so that it doesnt happen again. Dont forget to subscribe.
Great video. You literally solved a problem I thought I had. I installed an aluminum housing by Dorman onto my ‘13 300. I found out that the filter was different fortunately the new housing came with a filter. I will make sure I mark the cap to show it takes a ‘14 filter. Another difference I found is that the Dorman looks like your new housing but mine did not drop straight down into place like yours did. I had to start about 4” to the rear and drop the front of the housing in first before moving the housing forward into place. The new angle we’re hitting the intake opening stopping it from dropping straight down. Got it installed and seems to be working fine. Btw I found it on Amazon for $104.
I have a 2016 T&C assembled in Dec 2015 that has the older version oil filter housing. All the catalogs and references do point to the wrong filter for the year and model of the car. I bought it used, so I don't know if all the previous owners used the proper filters...although the proper filter was on it when I made my first oil change.
Well, I think we diagnosed the issue. We ordered the (2011) OSIAS Oil Filter Housing and had a rough time with the oil-in receptacle...again. Since we had the right year we HOPED it would install better than the 2014 but it did not. Once installed we started the car and looked at the oil-in receptacle...which was seeping!!!! I am going to assume it is the brand (OSIAS) and that the oil-in has been incorrectly engineered. We are going to try a Mopar. Thank you, again!!
This was one of the best diy videos I've seen lately! 🙏👍🏻
I just replaced the oil filter relief valve today. I noticed that the last time I changed the oil, the valve was damaged. I happened upon this video when I was researching what the broken piece I found was and how to repair it. I drove to Florida and back (3600 mile trip) with the broken piece in there. (I had already deduced it was going to be okay until the next oil change, so I decided to wait until next oil change, which happened to be 1 month away). I snapped in the new valve into the stem. Well, part of the stem cracked. I went ahead and installed the new valve anyways. 3 of the 4 snaps engaged the stem and the valve is securely in place. It is something I need to keep an eye on when I do my future oil changes. I really don't like the thought of replacing the oil filter housing. I have a 2013 T/C and now when I send my wife to the store, I'm assured I'll get the correct oil filter. If (when) the time occurs when I need to replace the oil filter housing, I will weigh the options and use the best housing I can. Having a numbers correct filter is excellent, but having a financially viable option is also tempting. I'll face that problem when I get there. My 13 Town and Country has 168k miles on it.
Yes the different filter that’s hat I’m looking for
How I love the old 3.8 Chrysler engines. Quite torqey as well.
They had there pros and cons as well. Just an ol push rod engine. More oil leaks and some timing chain rattle with age
@@MotorCityMechanic Tru. The pushrod factor was more of a concern for me but it hasn't been on the3.8 Chrysler engine for over ten years now. I guess depending on the treatment or maintenance the worst pushrod engine to me is the 3100 series on the ratling GM V6, where some of the rocker-arms/retaining bolts pop off/out of the head threads. Hence, the procedure of re-threading which is an iffy situation could be a pain.
Great vid, had mine leak and fill up the valley! Bought the upgraded one and haven’t had a problems since. The o-rings on the bottom went bad!
Thanks Kevin for watching. Its hard to tell if the o-rings or the housing in most cases when it becomes submerged in oil lol. I just replace the unit....I rather not have to do the same job twice lol. Appreciate the comment and make sure to subscribe.
Do the sell the seals by themselves?
Thanks for the video....
I did this exact change about two years ago on my 2012 JKU. The tower assembly fired out like a cannon while I was changing out oil filters....
Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment. I am surprised no one hasnt last an eye yet lol. Make sure to subscribe.
Thank you very much, this is the first video where I saw this comparison.
Excellent video. Thank you. I like finding out why something works or doesn’t work. I also like finding out why an upgrade/change should or shouldn’t be done.
Just my two cents worth of information on the oil filter/cooler. Mine started leaking like most do !, the problem i see on them is the bad type of rubber on the O rings, I see the new one you have has different O rings, this could be a better oil resistant nitrial or butal rubber than what was used on older models. The oil filter unit wasn't bad it self, just bad O rings, They get hard from the constant heating and cooling effect, Dodge did not use good O rings . You can get new O rings for the bottom part that mates up the the engine , but you can't get the O rings between the cooler and plastic case. I did find oil filter/cooler for around 160$. You just need to look around a little. Nice explanation on the different fit though. If mine goes out again i will switch to the newer style. My car is a 2012 charger 3.6L, 220000 thousand miles on it now. Keep up the good work David !!! 👍👍👍
Its one of those things....is it the o-rings that you cant see or the housing, I am sure the o-rings can be the cause but when it comes to the repair.....in my mind I rather do it only once incase I replaced the o-rings and thats not the cause. So I replace the assembly when possible to be 100% sure. Thanks for the comment and two cents.
4:23 I have a 2013 Dodge Avenger SE 3.6L V6 and surprisingly enough... I have the oil filter housing cap that has the cut outs and I have no tower in my filter housing, unless a mechanic broke it at some point during an oil change. Should I be using the newer filter style, regardless of the year. I don't have a good experience changing the oil on cars without metal filters down below, so this is new knowledge to me, albeit easier to work with.
I wish I had know that these could be updated. I finally got around to replacing mine last summer after getting called out for leaving an oil spot on my sister-in-law's driveway.
Its one of those things we learned over time. Glad you got it fixed in the mean time. If it happens again.....which I hope it doesnt.....you will know what to do. Thanks for commenting and make sure to subscribe.
Yeah my bypass valve shot across the shop. Luckily I found it. Something to consider but at 270,000 Kms (160,000 m), hmm I don't know. Thanks
Thanks for the info. I am getting ready to buy a 2012 JKU. Would have never know the difference here and I now what to look for.
But the 2014+ cracks and leaks oil into the valley. I’ve had to replace my 2014 due to a cracked housing and leak. But very good video.
The 2014 and newer design has been revised numerous times to correct this and the seals updated as well. When you go to buy the housing at the dealer you will get the latest and greatest that is "suppose" to not leak again. If we were dealing with a 2014 assembly that never revised then I would say no dont use.....thats not the case. They know about the leaks on 2014 and made changes. Thanks for watching Luke.
@@CedroCron Very true......that Squeak is when you stop. There were some design issues with the 2014 where they had access holes for internal ports/passages that were capped off that would have a leak at these areas plus the seals would flatten out due to the heat and not seal correctly. Thats another reason why the seals on the newer version are a different color.
I've done 4 I'm surprised it's not a recall
@@MotorCityMechanic I bought a 2011 and didn't know about this issue. Ordered 2x 2011 filters and when to change it. Since it looked different I took precaution nd when started engine it was only 50psi. Stopped it and put the old one back in and went to buy the right filter and switched it.
Problem is the 2011 o ring was fat. I didn't realize either and it took a lot to torque so I guess I cracked the housing so it's leaking now.
When I get a new 2014+ housing what color should the upgraded version o-rings be so I know I am getting the newest version?
@@MotorCityMechanic the 2015 housings certainly do crack. My wrangler has 46000 miles. I've always done my own oil changes and always tighten the oil filter to factory torque setting at 18 lbs ft. Just a week ago oil was leaking everywhere from the filter housing. Cheap plastic junk. Jeep needs to make this a recall.
Doing a BIG maintnance on my 2012 Wrangler JKU, will do the swap for sure thanks for the tip
I just bought a 2014 Ram Tradesman c/v and my first oil change the mechanic had a hard time matching the oil filter because he had to use a 2013 filter to match the one in it . So the assembly has been replaced before I bought it. I may just have to change it back to original because they will have to take the intake off to change the plugs.
Awesome videos always David. I think I’ll recommend the upgrade to my customers.
Many thanks man for taking the time to watch. I always appreciate the support
MotorCity Mechanic It’s not hard to support when you make great content👍
@@HowtoAutomotive Its always appreciated Brian!
What happens if the tower pops out and is loose. Do you Have to replace the whole system?
Great Video David. Our supplier, only has the 2014+ housings genuine Mopar, but they don't offer the old style
I can understand why now. Thanks man for watching....always great to hear from you.
You are a good instructor.
My 2012 is pouring water out from the oil coolant
I don’t have any Chrysler vehicles. Nonetheless, this is an EXCELLENT video. Very well done.
Some years have different sensors, not all interchange directly without swapping them.
Great video. Just purchased a 2012 T&C. Will have to poke my head under the hood a bit. This and the plastic bypass hose video you posted are two things I will have to check out. Thanks again.
thank you for taking the time to teach us this stuff Its saved me a ton of money
Thanks for taking the time to watch it!
Love your videos!! We have a 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan and ordered the 2014 (Osias) replacement. Got it installed and found oil all over the ground. Took everything back out and found the O ring on the housing oil-in receptacle broke. It was VERY difficult/tight to install so it wasn't surprising it broke. I had liberally greased the O-ring grooves prior to installation. It was equally difficult/tight to uninstall. I had measured the OD of the pipe prior to installing which was the same. HOWEVER, the O-ring groove on the 2014 is not as deep by .030". I had to uninstall it and am waiting for the 2011 part. Just a heads up to those considering the change over.
Waiting on the 2011 part? Did you have to go with a different housing or just a different oring?
@@KensDIYandHowTo We put in the dealer Mopar 2014 part as they corrected the issue on the 2014.
Excellent job, this man is awesome
Many thanks John for the kind words.
You can write on the cap "2014 filter" with a white ink marker for that 2011, then any new owner to that vehicle will know. Most mechanics will figure it out and prevent forcing a filter not designed for that housing.
Mostly diy's will make this mistake as a lot of car owners like to change their own oil. I think. lol
Very true. Thanks for watching Carlo and make sure to subscribe
I was thinking about trying this on my 2011 Grand Cherokee, but it was covered under warranty. I suspected that it was over tightened the last time the oil was changed. I'm doing all oil changes from now on. And I can do full synthetic for half the price and take my time and be careful. No need to tighten something with an o-ring that tight.
THANK YOU! I was hoping to upgrade to the aluminum Dorman unit on my 2012 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon at my next oil change... This told me that I can. 🙂
Golden video! You are again the best... Thank you
Many thanks!
When replacing the oil cooler on the 3.6L how much antifreeze should be drained.Your the only video that mentions it.Thanks
Thank you so much very informative video. I better upgrade to the 2014 oil filter cause here in Kenya 🇰🇪 it’s not easy getting parts and they cost way more .
Might be a good idea. Thanks for reaching out and for watching the video. Dont forget to subscribe.
You do great job bro! Big thanks! Regards from Poland.
Many thanks Damian! Gad to see that the videos make it around the world!
About doorman product replacement cast aluminum oil cooler,filter for pentastar engine
Your one smart mechanic good job did complete tune up on 2013 vw routan from watching your other video thanks
What can you tell about oil filter housing from Amazon for $106? Whole aluminum
They’re usually a bit more than the plastic. No more plastic is good.
Ive got a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. Replaced two of the oil cooler adapters and looks like I'm gonna have to replace for a third time. Thinking of going with the 2014 adapter.
Is a common point of failure in Jeep wranglers. The housing cracks sending oil in the cylinder valley which streams down the transmission. Wonder if the w ill ever do a recall or fix the design??? Best video I've seen on this issue.thanks
Very informative video!
I ran into the problem with the oil filter tower becoming unseated in my 2013 T&C.
However, I was told by my dad (previous owner) to just install the filter over top of the tower nice and square to reseat it.
So far no oil pressure problems and the dirty ness of the filter indicates the oil is likely flowing through normally
I was curious from a mechanics perspective what you might know that makes this a bad idea, and if I should just suck up the costs and replace the oil filter housing
David, this video fits in nicely with something I've found to worry about. My 2012 JK's startup valve noise might be getting louder, in spite of using Amsoil, so, because I recently discovered how to do it, I no longer use my beloved remote start but instead use the trick of holding the brake and flooring the gas so it turns over, and pumps oil, without starting. .... And I just discovered the Baxter Performance Cartridge to Spin-on Adapter and I'd appreciate knowing what you know about that.
I’m wondering if what your hearing is a cam phaser rattling until it locks up. Otherwise valve train noise in start up isn’t a normal issue. I’m thinking you have a phaser issue. Here is a link to a video I did that shows the issue ruclips.net/video/hLexS1UhkmE/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Nicely Done Bud!!
Many thanks!
That is really good information to have under your belt. Great subject. Everyone likes to save money.
Isnt that the truth Wyatt!
Very thorough as usual. Nice swap!
Thanks Bill! Appreciate the support!
Thank you for the great content. Just replaced mine on 2015 200c w 48000 miles on odometer. Makes a oily mess of the drivetrain and fun to clean out all the excess oil from the galley. Hope the replacement lasts a bit longer than the last one!😁🙃
Really great info glad Dorman stepped up as in your newer video.
Great video David.
I use a paint pen and mark the oil filter cap "2014" when I swap them.
I had the bypass valve inside the cap fail on my 2014 Ram CV, I have no idea how long this was broken or where the broken valve went. The only reason I noticed was the spring would just rattle around. I recommend changing the cap if the spring is loose and rattling around in the cap.
Hank
Great tip Hank! Thanks for the info and for watching.
Just changed my filter and did notice that the spring is still there but there is no cap holding the spring it just rattles in the tube. Honestly don't know how long its been missing. Is there a cap that you can replace back on to the spring or do you just have to replace the hole housing? Also if i don't replace the cap or housing what kind of damage is it doing???
The bypass valve on the 2014+ assembly is actually in the cap (oil filter housing cap).