FIX HARSH SHIFTING/ CEL WITH A 12.00 PRODUCT! (Automatic Transmission Solenoid cleaning)
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- Опубликовано: 20 янв 2023
- Having shifting issues with your automatic Subaru? This detailed video could save you some serious cash if you don't mind getting your hands dirty.
Let's keep working on our built 5EAT for our 2005 Subaru Legacy GT project. When this was in our Outback XT, we had some sticking issues during shifts due to poor valve body operation (original 200k mile unit was used during upgrade, which was a poor choice on my part)
I ordered replacement "refurbished" solenoids, but wasn't thrilled with how they looked when they arrived, so I'm going to show a cheaper, more readily available option to clean and free up your sticking solenoids!
5EAT Informational PDF Link - drive.google.com/file/d/10aAS...
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This is one of those videos that not that many people need but when someone does need it and finds this they will be SO stoked. Its so well filmed and explained for being a tutorial. Nice work!
Exactly, can't leave out the niche repairs 👌 thanks man 🙏😁
It's me I'm someone
Can confirm, am here for this and has been the only helpful thing I have found on the internet with, go figure, same exact issue my 5EAT trans has.
I like how you do the super detailed videos like Smeedia does. You don't time lapse the important stuff and explain everything even when you make a mistake. I watched the whole video and I don't even have a auto trans car lol.
Sometimes it's just cool to learn new stuff 😎 thanks man 🙏
Thank you for this video man. I’m about to tackle a valve body job on my Lexus. Been having some shift issues. Fingers crossed that it’s as simple as a dirty/stuck solenoid!!
Matt you are the man saving people money and providing expert how to's. Between you and Tanner I feel like I could build a whole car. Keep up the great work homie! 🤘
Appreciate that, man 😁🤙
Good stuff Matt! I really like the detail you go into to explain the issue, you do a really nice job making it easy to understand!
Do my best to keep it easy to follow 😁Thanks, man, means a lot! 🙏
Crazy watching my friend Matt on RUclips, all growed up and teaching me Subaru stuff. Subbed for life
Aye 🤙 thanks Kevin 😁
Matt it.s very cool to see how the automatic trans works .You explain it very well .
Thanks man, do my best 👌 😊
Immediately thank you for the lighting!
Big difference 😆 thanks man 🙏
Awesome video Matt and very informative!
Thanks man 🙏
professionalism Matt👍🏼, a great hands one video! Eventually I'll have to work on my f150 ecoboost trans.
Really tho this video deserves a 5 star rating 🤘🏼
Appreciate you, Omi 🙏
Can't find a video for my truck, however this gave me enough info to figure it out. Thanks brother
Glad I could help man 🤙
Man, i'm sooo glad someone is actually doing some awesome 5EAT stuff! I have an 05 LGT with the same issue you had with 3rd shifting into 4th.
I tuned my requested torque table to 30% above stock, and it made a huge difference with all shifts! 3rd to 4th is still kinda trash though, but to me it seems subaru tuned that table waayy to soft for these transmissions.
I got a spare 5eat from the local yard, and i'm going to do the same thing. Swap it in and hope for the best!
Very nice! Yes they left a lot on the table for "comfort" wish you the best with the swap 🤙
So much information love it!
Thanks Bart 👌
I finally caught up on my Mateo content now, I need more.
👌👌 Noiiiice! We'll be working on stuff and filming again over the weekend. We've been trying to get the WRX figured out this past week to get it working for the tune date, once that's all figured out we'll be back to a regular schedule again 🤙
This is a really good video.
Thanks man 🙏
Awesome video! 👍 Really made me feel like this is something I can handle. About to do the same with my wife's Toyota Highlander Sport in the morning.. so wish us luck 🤞. Again thank you. Peace out ✌️.
Appreciate it 🙏 best of luck to you 👌
@@MatlasDIi have a 2002 camry 4 cyl 231k miles.
It shifts ok at very light throttle on flat ground.
When going up hill or light to normal or fast acceleration. It generally won't shift unless I lift off the accelerator, above 4000 rpm. 1-2 or 2-3 or 3-4. All act the same. Fluid was a little low now a little high with no change. Fluid may never have been changed.
All tranny fluid smells burnt to me.
No codes. Some bucking is felt.
Any ideas?
The ones you got off ebay look like they were either tossed around in a hot warehouse for years or someone "returned" their used ones and they just got stuck back on the shelf without anyone checking them.
Great video! I have absolutely no reason to make it, but now I want to build a transmission solenoid tester/cleaner 😆
Dude, they were so bad.. I was not about to chance it on those things. Could use the tester for other things as well, I suppose 😄
Great 👌 video, my 09 Mazda premacy shifts hard in second speed and reverse, it's a 5speed, witch solaniod to check
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for checking it out 🤙🤙
Just had this dang thing out & tested the resistance on em. Had a brand new can of this feet away. Wish I ran across this video two days ago. Thank you very much for the video though.
Dangggg, always seems to work out that way, right?! 😅 thanks man 🙏
No joke.. really hoping I don't have to pull em back out. Resistance was good but I only actuated one in a hurry. Building patience I guess 🤪
Thanks again on the video though, very helpful
When I did my intake manifold gasket I bought a VEVOR Ultrasonic Cleaner 2L for cleaning my fuel injectors, would be perfect for solenoids too. Its a process called cavitation, gets everything super clean inside and out.
That is an awesome idea, man. Thank you for the info 🙏
Great video. Get yourself a power probe. That this is great for diagnosing stuff.
Thanks man 🙏 power probes are a life saver, for sure.
I used to have one back when I worked at the dealer, but it, along with a large number of my other tools, was stolen and pawned. 🫠
What can be used to clean the valve body and inside the transmission without damaging anything what products would recommend
Good job, and you're right. Ebay products can be sketchy AF! 🤔
Thanks Walter, yeah these were a no go for sure lol
I just found your channel its great to see an auto Subaru getting some love. I have an 07 outback that i plan on building how much have you spent on upgrades on your transmission.
Appreciate it 🙏 I believe all in it was around 4200 for the full transmission build with high stall torque converter, but they have different packages. Would recommend to reach out to the guys at level10 or ipt and get some info on pricing, as this was done a few years ago at this point and their pricing may have changed. 👌
Absolute legend thank you
Is there a part 2 of this video? I'm just wondering if the repair/cleaning fixed the problem? I'm getting a P2764 and P1710 code on my 2012 Subaru Tribeca with a 5EAT transmission. It's sticking on a downshift from I believe 3rd gear to 2nd gear. I brought it to the local transmission repair shop. They had a snap-on tool (I believe OBD2) that was able to give a reading: torque converter speed 2, speed circuit malfunction. Thanks
I plan to do the same with the 4EAT in my turbo forester cross sports S-edition
Wish you an easy and straight-forward process 😁👌
@@MatlasDI i hope so as well is there a 4EAT forum?
@@john-danielmartin8753 there is a group I'm in on Facebook called "Subaru AT(#EAT) Club"
Great video, I might take a shot at cleaning the solenoids and sending the valvebody to ipt. Did cleaning the solenoids improve the shifting?
It did improve things pretty dramatically. I had the first 9v die on me during actuation, so I'd recommend getting a couple, but it cleaned up all aspects of shifting and converter lock up. Probably helped to have everything drained and fully flushed as well during reassembly.
Thanx Matt 👍 ✅️✅️✅️
Yup yup 😁🤙
Hi Matt, I'm having a problem with my Subaru OB 3.0 2008 5at. a few times when I went to stop the car the AT/oil temp light came on; cruise and check engine. So I read it directly on the car dashboard and also using a scanner and the DTCs p0700 and p0817 (PN signal output circuit) appeared. I already checked the gearbox oil level, the relays, fuses, and cleared the error but within 1 to 2 days it appears again. Lastly I changed the battery and the car was fine for a week until it showed up again Note: the gears work perfectly. the car only starts if it is in P or N. The only detail I noticed is that if I turn off the car as soon as the errors appear, I need to wait about 20 seconds to be able to start it again. Have you ever been through this? Can you help me with any tips?
What is the best way to test solenoids? To use battery to get them clicking sound and valve moving or to use ohmeter to get resistance in recommended values?
Ohm meter would be a good non-intrusive way of testing for any resistance issues. Mainly used volts for actuation of the valve during cleaning. My main goal was to free up the movement and prevent any sticking. In retrospect, it would have been good for me to have checked ohms as well on them all after cleaning. 👍
Good Stuff Matt. Have a question. Which solenoids should I check out if I have harsh upshifts from gear 2 to 3?
Thanks man 🙏
2nd to 3rd engages the high/low reverse solenoid, which stays engaged for 4th and 5th as well. All other solenoids remain the same, so that is what I would check. As always, it's good practice to flush lines and do a tcm relearn to rule out contamination and bad logic as well 👌
@@MatlasDI Thanks for this. Mine is a JDM Legacy 2007 and on the SSM III tool relearn is not visible. Might be there another way to perform the relearn without the SSM III software?
Not sure about a workaround on that. Might have to try a different ssm software or visit a dealer, unfortunately.
I'm not familiar with auto boxes... Do you reckon you could put the solenoids into a ultrasonic cleaner? With maf cleaner. I don't think I'll ever have the problem as I have a sti 6 speed but I'm just curious 😅
You probably could. You'd want to actuate them during the cleaning, but I don't know if it would cause any issues.
Been doing research tonight and seen a few of your videos, is there a way other than comments to contact you to ask a few questions I'd like to ask, thanks
Instagram is typically the easiest. Same username 👍
I have a friend entering the subi gang same model as your chewie but you seemed to have done a lot of your build before you starting youtube😡. We are thinking 400 wheel so fpblue, 1050 injectors, dp, fpr, fuel pump, intake. Do the after market injectors fit or did you need to change fuel rails?
Yeah, I hadn't started filming much until the second or so revision of the car. I wish I had started sooner. They come sidefeed, so you'd need to get conversion rails for the tgv's.
Can you use the 12v vehicle battery to test the solenoids?
I'm not sure of the exact operating voltage, so I can't say yes or no. I'd say it's probably safer to use less, Iirc some of these operate as low as 5v.
Cleaning my solinoids tonight after watching video. Low coast break solinoid click 2?
Nice nice, low coast brake solenoid is the 4th from the left if you have the solenoids facing closest to you.
@@MatlasDI correct yes i pulled the video up. I brole down a 06 tribeca vb from my local junkyard. Broke down to put trans go in it. Cleaning solinoids all had good click but the low coast break. Is that supposed to click as well? If u can rememebr.
Can u recomend where to buy the solenoid? My gear wont downshift after long drive..seems stuck on gear 5..need to switch off the engine to reset back to normal
Only real spot to buy them from is ebay where they have various companies who sell the sets refurbished/ cleaned & tested, but they're kind of a gamble imo. That's a strange one, do you get any associated mil/cel lights?
Hi, on my car i this problem only when the car is on operating temperature, when the is cold it drives perfectly on all gears. What could be the cause?
Sounds like either an issue with the transmission temp circuit or potentially an issue with resistance in the solenoids when hot. A little tough to diagnose that type of issues without digging in, so it may be worth while to have someone who can scan the transmissions functions test what is happening during operation.
I have a 2011 legacy 3.6r that recently developed a issue shifting. My car has the 5 speed auto 5eat. I'm starting to get a hard shift between 3rd and 4th gear. It seldomly happens but when it does it's when I'm lightly accelerating. Could this be a sticky solenoid?
Yeah, most likely a solenoid/ valve body issue. Sounds like the exact same issue I was having.
So this 5eat has a planetary gear set near the output shaft right? ? I've got a 13 Legacy EZ36, and I've been changing the Trans fluid about every 10k with the Idemitsu Trans , I've got 135k on the car.
The input and output will be the same shaft, but they have 3 main planetary sets and the center diff is planetary as well in design, which sits in the tailshaft. 👌
My 07 XT has a IPT transmission package for many years now. Don't have the skill to crack open a auto transmission. I am running 18G pretty conservatively though.
They're pretty weird to get into opening up, but it can be figured out pretty easily with minimal tools. I prefer to have a transmission shop do it for sure, though 😅
Where did you get the repair info from???
Had to do some serious digging online, and found it on a transmission repair shop forum for reference during rebuilds 😆
Hey Matt got a question i have a 09 legacy gt, and I actually went the expensive route in replacing my whole valve body at the dealership because my CEL kept coming on and it wasn’t able to shift without pounding and misfiring. I got my new one, put it on and for the past 2 months been riding on it with it shifting fine, but once it hits around mid 3rd to 4th gear it drops in rpms , rattles a bit underneath and THEN shifts into 4th smoothly and 5th smoothly. Do you think it could be the same problem with cleaning ?especially if the VB came straight from the dealer
Don't think it'll be a cleaning issue but potentially a relearn if they didn't perform one when installing the valve body. I'd look to see if they did a full flush on it and the relearn. There ar3 also a lot of issues that can be related to harnesses and other parts of the electrical side of things.
@@MatlasDI I know for sure they did a full flush of fluids and replaced when brand new transmission fluid but I don’t know if they ever did a relearn, you think I should take it back to the transmission specialist or is it something I can do elsewhere
@AdotBdot typically need to have the dealer do the relearn or if somewhere else has software to communicate with the tcm
¿Sabes cual es el selenoide "A"?
I believe the solenoids are listed in order, but not positive on that. Do you know which check code is correlated to your MIL?
ugh dude just get a new filter if you are getting a new pan anyways... great job otherwise but not worth cheaping out on the filter in my opinion.
keep up the great work dude
Yeah, i didnt like that much. I was looking, and did find a place that sells replacement pan strainers, so I'll be picking one up. 👌
Im almost done with my 2008 outback xt 500 hp build. When you coming over to help me finish :)
Let's goooo dude 🤙🤙🤙
I kept trying to post the link to the build kit for the 5eat but it kept deleting it
Yeah, I'm not sure why it's filtering links so hard on here.
@@MatlasDI because utube is asshoe
Quick question mate. On my 5EAT (09 Tribeca) I am having what I would call 'fluttering' (not harsh like a shudder), upon acceleration, particularly noticeable for instance accelerating out of a corner. Initially I thought it was a belt, but I changed serpentine and pulleys. No fix. However I've now found when I drive in manual mode it does not occur, even driving more lively than usual. So what is taken out of the equation, ie not used, when I drive in manual mode? A particular solenoid perhaps? Thanks!
No changes to solenoids, but it does change parameters for shift and lock up duty. That's a tough one to diagnose, because it sounds like it's a pretty mild condition when it does occur. If I remember correctly, and I think it references it in the guide I linked, in manual mode, it uses a slightly different combination of which gears are locked to create first and second, so technically in manual mode they are different ratios for both gears. It also directs fluid differently so there could be a clog or restriction somewhere that isn't seen when manual mode pathways are opened, but there are so many things electronically going on that it might not be a bad idea to just start with having a shop do a transmission relearn.
@@MatlasDI Thanks mate for your reply. I'm starting to think it might not be the trans but I'm stumped what it is. However I have noticed its ALWAYS around 2000rpm, regardless of what gear its in. Sometimes it feels like a vibration, sometimes a flutter. I'm hoping its not timing chain/tensioners
@Aussie In The Philippines could be a lot of things causing a drivability issue like that, sensors and maintenance type things potentially. Dirty maf sensor & throttle body is a good thing to check. There have been issues with the factory fuel pressure regulators causing a stutter around 2-2.5 rpm (mainly the sti setup) so possible it could be something like that as well. Unfortunately, it can be pretty difficult to diagnose without it setting a trouble code of some kind.
@@MatlasDI mate, a code would be awesome LOL. Beats working blind. I'll keep battling on. I thought of cleaning the MAF today actually so I'll do that on the weekend to start.
@MatlasDI i have a 2002 camry 4 cyl 231k miles.
It shifts ok at very light throttle on flat ground.
When going up hill or light to normal or fast acceleration. It generally won't shift unless I lift off the accelerator, above 4000 rpm. 1-2 or 2-3 or 3-4. All act the same. Fluid was a little low now a little high with no change. Fluid may never have been changed.
All tranny fluid smells burnt to me.
No codes. Some bucking is felt.
Any ideas?
Hey man, sorry, comment was hidden. With it being across the board I would focus on doing s couple flushes back to back, flush the cooler and perform a relearn. If it's like the Subaru 5eat you would have to have a dealer reset memory 2 and go from there. Hopefully you get things figured out. They can be very finicky. If this doesn't work and you don't have slippage I'd look at swapping the valve body out for a new unit. 🤙
@@MatlasDImy problem ended up being two very dirty diodes in the mass airflow sensor. I could barely see them.
@@MatlasDI
My daughter has a 2008 impreza.
When it gets cold in Minnesota. The trany has a severe clunk when shifting for the first few miles. Any ideas. Automatic tranny
@golfish8589 wow, very different. It's always interesting how different systems mess with each other. I'm glad you figured things out 👌
Which one causes wheel binding?
Torque bind typically relates to a center differential issue. I've seen times where back to back flushes and a filter change can help free up movement and reduce the binding, but typically a shop will just recommend a full on transmission replacement.
@MatlasDI thanks, I'm gonna flush it one more time to see if I feel any difference. I have a 06 outback with 5eat, I read up on the 4eat that a clogged solenoid could be faulty so figure in a 5eat it would be something similar. I also ordered some refurbished solenoid for the 5eat so figure I ask before I switch them out. Thanks again
I need to ask - I'm having issues with P0771 and I'm considering dropping valve body and cleaning out shift solenoid, since previous mechanic did something that's causing whole issue (possibly too much silicone or w/e he used that made it's way inside, hard to tell). Is there a gasket (or set of those) that goes between valve body and transmission, apart from obvious AT oil pan ridge?
No additional gaskets, just have to make sure the mounting point is clean and the corresponding points on the valve body are in good shape as well. Oil pan uses a specific threebond that I'd recommend picking up from subaru. Seen various other types fail, so I'd only recommend that.
@@MatlasDI Now that was one hell of a swift answer 😅
Great, thanks! I'll make sure to check all surfaces, need car reliable before weekend. I'll see if I'll be able to pick up the threebond, not sure if any local shop has its. Cheers!
@Alpa Foto np man 👌 hope you get everything squared away 🤙🤙
@@MatlasDI Well... All the signs point to the fact that... I succeded! Damn, I'd never thought that one day I'd drop a pan from an automatic transmission, let alone take out valve body. But hell, it really did help! I mean, there are still issues unresolved (for now drained only half of the ATF for example) but I'm not getting any P0700, nor P0771 (and P1798, which is somewhat connected to those). It took nearly a week to actually get everything done, but the to my surprise worst part was getting the pan off - that idiot RTF'd a living hell out of it and sadly pan doesn't look too well, but it holds ATF pretty well after using proper liquid gasket and not some generic RTF. It's not Three Bond, but it's the second best thing that I could get. At least I didn't put a metric shit ton of it, so now it won't get inside. Previous guy put so much on it that it easily made a ridge inside the tranny, no wonder it got dirty and all.
Most importantly I wouldn't do it if not for your project and videos you made of it. Thank you, honestly, it motivated me to finally take matters in my own hands and do things like they should be done!
@Alpa Foto Hell yeah, dude! That makes me super happy to hear you got everything handled! This is why I do what I do, man. Made my day 🤙🤙
Question. Maybe some 1 here might know. I have a 09 legacy Gt that all of a sudden acted as if the torgue converter is slipping. But if you give it a little but of gas it will move a bit then throws a code and instantly acts fine right after that will everything acting fine. Until you shut the car down then it starts all over again codes po700 p0720 & c0045 hoping some1 knows what's going on is it a solenoid, torgue converter, or rear clutch disc's
Although it isn't necessarily rare for a converter itself to fail. If they do, they only show stalling issues, like if you don't press in the clutch when coming to a stop in a manual. Clutch packs control individual gearing, so typically, you'd get slippage in only one or two gears when getting into power, and they happen gradually, not all at once.
P0700 is a transmission MIL request and occurs at any time there are transmission related codes, p0720 is a tcm voltage code, and c0045 is a left rear wheel speed sensor. I'd be looking into if you have a bad left rear sensor, checking the harness and ground points for the transmission. Could still be tcm itself, but none of the codes are specifically related to torque lockup or solenoid functionality.
@MatlasDI Thanks for the response. To me this 1 is confusing. So I gave it to AAMCO they had it for 2 weeks. We tested all wheel speed sensors, R&R the TCM, Checked the grounds. A few test drives etc, did trans fluid n trans filter this year has the filter by the battery in the fender well. AAMCO said it might be the rear clutch packs or the solenoid pack they weren't sure. But they gave up saying they will just have to remove n rebuild the trans or get a used trans. What I find odd is ya it acts exactly like the torque converter is slipping at 1st then codes pop up and at this point you feel the trans actually engage fully and all gears work etc it acts normal from that point . I think the c0045 is towards the rear output speed sensor at the rear of the trans. I can't afford a transmission so thought I might look into other possibilities
@Rawg yeah certain issue can be very hard to diagnose properly. Again, I don't think it's necessarily a transmission issue itself. Valve body comes with new internal sensors, there is also a sensor on the outside of the case. Would be better to bring it to subaru and get their input. They have much more capable tools for testing these units.
I have almost the same codes but except 720 it's p0700 , p1710 and c0045 error codes
Any plans for the center diff with this build?
I got info from level 10, they said they treated the diff components and used heavy duty bearings, but they are still a needle design. I'll run it as is for now, and avoid things like stall launching, but end result, I'll try and figure out making the sleeve bearings and swap them in car. 👌
@@MatlasDI There's a little bit of info floating around about building these diffs, if you translate them from Russian, lol. Seems like they usually go for billet bronze or brass bushings.
There's a Russian build from a couple years ago that was running high 9s with 550whp through a modded 5EAT. IPT high-stall, bronze/ brass center diff bushings, modded valvebody, and a custom TCU. Seems like the trans was built by a guy who goes by "B@tman", but I haven't been able to find any contact info for him. I'd love to pick his brain about the diff bushings and TCU.
@MadWagon97 If you found b@tman's account on the forums you got further than I did, I couldn't find any information past the initial mention of him. I think we could build them to hold the power, where I fall off is the tcm logic tables since I always use Cobb. We need to revive furthering this platform.
@@MatlasDI I haven't been able to find much, that's for sure. A lot of this stuff hasn't been talked about for years. I think the move for the TCM is to swap it for a standalone. The factory one's memory can be accessed through opensource software, but not the factory map. Romraider can't even support changing the Shift Retard reference table in the ECU without coding it in. Accesstuner has that by default, thankfully. But without being able to tune how the TCM sends requests for it, it's not overly useful.
It's a shame development stopped when it did. I want to get another 5EAT to start experimenting with. Possibly one from an 06 Tribeca, since they share diff ratios with the 05-06 OBXT, but they have shorter 1-3rd gearing. Not sure what other architecture is the same or different. Just gotta wait 'til I have the time.
@MadWagon97 Yeah, I think they could have done a lot more with these. It was strange that everyone got so far, and then all agreed to drop it. I think at a certain point, if there are too many steps involved, it just becomes more viable to swap to a manual, unfortunately. I'd like to find a simplified approach.
I was told that you should only test with volts the shifting solenoids and none of the other solenoids because you can wreck them.
I can't speak for other valve bodies, but for the 5eat I'm showing, all the valves have the same operation, so using the 9v actuated them just enough to aid in the cleaning process and check for sticking. 👍
@@MatlasDI I did it your way and had no issues. Used a dying car battery at 9 volts
Now I know why Subaru will only sell you a whole valve body and not separate parts!
Yup lol. There used to be a way to order from Jatko/ Bosch, but I believe they have discontinued them, or only offer for transmission repair shops.
Вітання з України.
Дякую за відео, займаюсь ремонтом такої ж коробки, в своєму Outback. Дуже було приємно знайти такий мануал від вас. Підкажіть, якщо можете, де можна знайти робочий опір (R Ом) для кожного саленоіду. Дякую.
Thanks for watching! I'm not sure if they list specific ohms. I've had trouble finding any further diagnostic info than what I provided. I have access to subaru STIS as well (I work for subaru) and it doesn't list anything from what I've seen. I'll try to give it another look and see if I can come across any additional info. Appreciate you 🙏
Дякую турботу. Мені вдалося знайти показники саленоїдів при температурі 20° вони складають від 3 до 9 Ом, крім середнього, точно не пам'ятаю який має бути опір вже. Тепер буду шукати. Ще раз дякую, ваше відео вже не раз допомогло.
Hello, first of all, thanks for the dedication you have in generating this content, it helped me a lot to understand a little about the problem I am having, I have a 2006 Subaru legacy gt and it gives me a code P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical, any ideas on how to repair it, thank you very much greetings from Mexico!!
Hey man! The shift solenoid B code is typically a short or open in the system, rather than a solenoid issue itself. It pertains to the "input clutch" circuit if you were trying to focus on the valve body specifically, but diagnostic charts for that code advise checking tcm and transmission related grounds and checking for poor resistance at various connector points for potentially bad parts of the harness.
Here is a link to a forum page with more specific info:
www.subaruoutback.org/threads/5eat-transmission-solenoid-sticking.30051/
Check out post #11
@@MatlasDI thanks !! 😀
Too much labor involved in getting it drained and reinstalled not to mention the cost of fluid to clean solenoids and roll the dice.. really need to install new ones.
Yeah, I would have preferred to have replaced them, but the ones i got I didn't have much faith in. I didn't mind the teardown because this was the first time opening the transmission up after having it built. Gave me a chance to see the fractions and irons and make sure nothing else was up internally. 👍
I wish you had the following/projects Tanner has. I'm sorry but it's almost unbearable watching Tanners videos most of the time. And his outro makes me want to shoot myself. Anyways can't wait to see this thing buttoned up.
Then don't watch the videos 🫴
@Smeedia Don't worry I still do 😘
🤷🏻♂️ videos are an art form. We all put in a lot of time and effort to get the final product to match our style and preferences, which won't be everyone's cup of tea. Growth takes time, and the algorithm finding your fit, we'll get there at some point. I'd prefer not to compare, but to appreciate us both for what we are 👌
I am excited to get this thing up and moving as well, should be getting to the dyno once this transmission is swapped in, so not too much longer 👌Then we can work on the looks of the car as well which will be a nice change. 👍
Don’t buy anything from Amazon and eBay
Yeah all sketch.