Thank you for being here! If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
Understood. Chances are, the 3-4 Clutch is smoked. Super common problem on this transmission. As the name implies, the 3-4 Clutch is partially responsible for 3rd gear and 4th gear.
I have a 1997 c1500 with 4l60e 1-piece case. Keep getting P0758 and have replaced both A and B shift solenoids. I can command them on /off through PCM and voltage drop occurs …they work . Can mechanical problem in valve body or transmission still cause P0758? No debris or clutch material found in pan …clean with normal metallic sludge on magnet
Is the trans missing/skipping 2nd or 3rd gear? What's the history on trans? High mileage unit? Recently rebuilt? To answer your question... Yes, there are mechanical, and hydraulic, problems that can exist in the valve-body, that can cause this code. Shoot me some more info, and I'll see if I can get you pointed in the right direction.
I've only watched this one video of yours and I am coming to the conclusion quickly and I believe you may have the best transmission videos on the internet at least for explaining to the beginner thank you for your service
That would be great! Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
you could do alot worsethan watching and listening to this channel. Even my girlfriend(not very mechanically inclined)undrstood the content. cheers frrom Calgary.
using that color coding to show the inner workings of the 4L60E transmission is a quality mark of a genius. No hesitations in your explanations and smooth talking puts your web page at the top of the list compared to what i seen in other show and tells. You are the grand master of your intellect for perpetrating such awesome detail to your audience. Kudo's go out to you sir.
I can't thank you enough to help me understand this type of transmission down to every detail. Transmissions were always a "hands off" thing to me because of their complexity making them so intimidating. Your videos really paid because they make understanding this transmission so easily. I've watched many other videos and they still left me scratching my head. So again sir, thank you for taking the time to make these videos to help people like me get the best understanding and gain the knowledge from a true expert. 👍👍
Right on! Glad to hear that. Your interest in this subject is appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to drop me a line. PS I've got plans of making more video content, like this. Just a matter of time...
Thanks for 'arming' folks with some more knowledge! Seriously, that was well played sir! Great work! I like to teach people the basics in a powershift transmission, which is extremely similar to a complex 'auto' trans, but without any of the valving. Usually 1-3 clutch stacks and a F/R stack. That's it.
The positive feedback is appreciated. John Deere power-shift? Right on! Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks It took me a few views to fealize thatyou only ha d the one hand, just goes to show that you can fix a tranny with only one hand as long as you have the motivaton to overcome problems in life
November 5, 2022- Follow up to my 2nd post. Received the PCM I bought on Ebay ( by Flashmasters) and it fixed the transmission immediately. No more Shift solenoid B Fault and no more default 3rd gear. I was almost defeated after rebuilding an obviously burned up transmission only to install it and have the same fault that I started with. So, pay close attention to your scan tool solenoid open/short to ground/short to volt faults, because it very well could be the PCM. It is natural to assume an old truck has wiring harness issues, but don't overlook the PCM itself . And don't assume your vehicle only has one problem....in this case the tranny was indeed burned up but the PCM was also completely defective, because its internal volt meter was permanently stuck on 0V as it activated and monitored the B solenoid
Excellent explanation....No such detailed videos on internet about automatic transmission......This is the best channel for learning automatic transmission....
The positive feedback is appreciated. PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
Love your videos. So clear with great visual explanations and animations. They are perfect. You obviously put alot more work into your videos than just turning on a recording camera. I'm gonna watch more ot them.
New subscriber as of right now. You got me hooked. I do a lot of my own work and I’m playing with the concept of a 4L60E in my race truck instead of the th350 and this just solved my issue.
Recently I rebuilt the 4l60e I commented on two weeks ago... the 2/4 input drum blue and band slipping (no 2nd or 4th gear) . Now the tranny is rebuilt, both shift solenoids replaced 2/3 shuttle valves inspected (smooth movement in the bore) and I replaced internal tranny wiring harness. But same 2/3 solenoid electrical fault occurs , but now AFTER the 2-3 shift occurs ..... Interestingly I can shift through every gear using scan tool from 1 to 4 and I have every gear going down the road. I can also downshift from 4 to 1 using the scan tool no problem. However, if I clear fault, and start from stop , it will shift from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, then about 2-3 seconds after the shift to 3rd , check engine light comes on and now I'm in failsafe 3rd gear again. (same 2/3 solenoid "B" electrical fault) . Since the 2/3 solenoid is commanded OFF for 3rd gear, I'm thinking this might be a problem inside the PCM, or PCM is not seeing the voltage rise fast enough after solenoid turned off . I can command the 2/3 solenoid on and off with scan tool and I hear it click on / off in the pan every time. Now I am starting to think the 2/4 band and drum originally burned up because previous owner was constantly using manual 2nd to start off and flicking to 3rd, since tranny was in failsafe all the time ( he died, so asking him is out of the question.) . I suspect this because the shift cable was originally misadjusted so that manual valve would only move to manual 2nd and not to manual 1st. You could physically not move it to manual 1st. Not sure what is going on, but definitely going to school on this one.
Thank you foe the clear explanation, please explain also about the accumulator, what is the function while several case 4l60e harsh shift 1-2 while the plastic accumulator is tear and wear. Thx
I loved it.🎉 Watched it in 1.75x and still got everything smooth into my brain 🧠 Now I'll have more proper knowledge while going to the mechanic and resolving my Toyota Harrier / Lexus Rx330 gearbox problem
@SouthpawAutoworks BTW I got my transmission replaced for the peace of mind 😅 The shifts are smooth, it is just that when I floor the car. The gear takes lag to shift and a bit of aggressive shift. Perhaps can consider this from a V6 engine 3mz
Very great information. I plan on using your videos in our class at our Tech Center to help my students understand automatic transmissions. Outstanding. Great visuals.
Great videos mate very easy to follow along. Im currently looking for the reason my silverado 4l60e feels like it slips/hesitates until i add rpm when selecting drive. Seems fine when cold but gets worse as it warms up. Reverse is normal with no issues and the car will drive along fine just slips from a stopped start. Any help would be greatly appreciated 👍
Great video and very informative. I have a question… I have a 1995 Camaro that seems to be missing second gear. First gear pulls normal however it won’t shift to second, if you lead off of the throttle it will jump straight to third and then fourth operates totally normal as well. If you step on the throttle enough to where it goes to downshift into second gear it will just rev almost like neutral. Can you help me out diagnosing this? Thanks
What an amazingly detailed video. Mine randomly slips while in 4th gear so I got the shift solenoids & torque converter pwm solenoid, hoping that fixes the problem, but I really wanted more information on how those solenoids work and what they do. This video is a big help in understanding how the transmission works. I subscribed.
Here's a video dedicated to the shift solenoids. 4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation): ruclips.net/video/FaChWmcsAgI/видео.html That condition could be caused by a number of things. Hoping to get back to creating more 4L60E videos, soon. Got a lot of different topics to cover, including this one. Currently busy working on a TH400 build series. ruclips.net/p/PLMK9OC5NGhbgVgAwDO_rCGFF38T1LjkS7 The positive feedback (and the subscription) is appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line.
I really appreciate all that you do it helps tremendously my question is I recently changed the oil and filter in my 4l60e the reason for this is when I reach 30 mph its like it goes into neutral while I had the pan and off out of the way I was checking out the shift solenoids when I pushed in on them the one closest to the front of the transmission it would come back out on it's own the other one I had to pull it back out is this normal or should they be charged because it is still doing the same thing as before
Regarding the solenoids, that's normal. One solenoid is under spring tension. The other is not. If the trans is trying to shift into 3rd gear, and instead of getting 3rd gear, it feels like neutral, chances are that the 3-4 Clutch is failing. As the name implies, it partially responsible for creating both 3rd gear and 4th gear. It's a very common failure point on the 4L60E.
Thanks for the video. im diagnosing a freshly rebuilt 4660e that wont downshift back to first . using this and not having any diagnostic codes i was able to determine my problem is not the 1-2 solenoid. so on to the next video
Awesome! I just tripped across this video (I'll make sure to watch more) I wish it had come up in my many searches on the 4L60e. I do have a question & while I get there are soooo many different possibilities as to the cause of my problem, some of which I have already dealt with by replacing sensors. I have a K1500 Suburban with a 4L60e that appears to shift fine in the mornings but come later in the day (only short drives to & from work) the trans shifts up very early & bogs down. In fact, if you put your foot on the gas it shifts up first & not pick up revs or even shift down. It will then shift down given a little time but then it will shift straight up again. Some history, when I put 33" tyres on a couple of years ago, it started throwing a trans code on the odd occasion & reacted the same, but if I cleared the code, it came good & it sometimes wouldn't happen again for a few weeks or months. I have since gone to 35" tyres but changed the diff to a 4:56 which is pretty close to stock gearing, if anything it's probably a little the other way as the tyres only measure 34 1/2" but its certainly improved off the line, around town & is great for off road. I have replaced the TPS & MAF in this hunt. Unfortunately I don't have the Tech 2 GM OBD unit yet so I can see what the % of the throttle is, but it's odd that it seems to shift fine in the mornings, if anything, it shifts GREAT with very positive shifts as I would expect from a trans that was built with a shift kit for towing a few years ago. I am a bit suspect on a vacuum leak as I sometimes can smell fuel but I'm unsure if there are any sensors ties to the trans that would effect it, especially as I mentioned, it seems fine in the mornings. It plays up when I come home for lunch as it does after work. very odd to me with the limited knowledge I have with transmissions. More recently when I back off the gas, the revs will drop very low. I have had a stuck IAC a couple of times & am about to order a new one. P.S. The Suburban is actually Australian Delivered as R/H Drive & as a Holden, so finding a proper Tech 2 for it is proving a challenge but as I do all my own mechanical (I rebuilt a 14 bolt rear diff for it last year with a locker) & she is being built as our camping rig, we intend to keep the old girl especially as they are not very common here in Oz. I appreciate any thoughts on what could be causing the problem. Cheers!! Rod. (sorry for the essay!)
You've got a lot going on here... I've read this comment of yours twice, trying to gather info. First and foremost, drivability (engine) problems can/will affect transmission performance. Always best to address all engine problems before chasing transmission problems. The PCM (4L60E computer) gathers info from a number of engine sensors, and it makes "decisions" based on the input received from those sensors. Tire Size: The PCM is constantly watching engine load (MAF, TPS, etc) and road speed (speed sensors). Changing the tire size can affect the speed sensor info that the PCM is receiving. Because of ABS (Anti-Locking Brake) systems, many vehicle are equipped with speed sensors at each wheel. I'm not sure if this is the case with your vehicle... Temperature: For emissions purposes, engineers have designed the vehicles to warm up as fast as possible. When the vehicle is cold, all up-shifts are delayed. The TCC (torque converter clutch) is typically inhibited. Doing these things raises the engine RPMS, which raises engine temp faster. However, as the engine warms up, the shifts will occur sooner. This may explain why your engine shifts normally when cold....and shifts too soon when the engine warms up. Once again, I'd start by addressing engine problems. If the problem still persists, I'd be leaning towards the tire size and differential mod. PCM might need to be re-programmed. Thank you for the positive feedback! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. Here's an easy way to share... 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html 60-Second Preview of the video you just watched: ruclips.net/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/видео.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have been sorting through the problems with the old girl & learning heaps as I go. I'm pretty much old school so learning all the sensors etc has been a challenge but I'm enjoying figuring out what makes it tick. Now that you have mentioned the ABS, I have also done a complete brake upgrade (disc conversion on the 14 bolt rear when I built it, upgraded discs & callipers on the front plus a bigger master cylinder to suit. I am yet to sort the ABS light as I need to cycle the ABS (another reason to purchase a Tech 2) then re-bleed the brakes, though it is pulling up ok at the moment. Yes, there is ABS sensors on the front only, I wonder if that is contributing to the trans problem?? Because of the diff ratio change to suit the larger tyres, I'm not sure that is actually the problem as the gearing is close to stock but of course I can't rule it out. As far as temp is concerned, I nearly always let my truck warm up in the mornings because of the short drive, but it's odd that after it sits until lunchtime, almost straight away the early shifting happens. I wonder if it can be ambient temperature ?? it's the same when I drive home after work, if anything, I think it is worse later in the day, if that's possible?? Yes, I'm happy to share your work, helping each other is what it's all about! CHEERS!
I also enjoy learning how stuff ticks. And there's always something to learn! When time permits, I'll be creating a video series that shows how engine problems (and other systems) can cause transmission problems. Can you pull all of the trouble codes? Note: If you recently reset trouble codes, drive it long enough (minutes, days, etc) to bring back all of the original codes.
@@SouthpawAutoworks No, no codes at the moment, which is why I need to get my hands on a Tech 2 for this vehicle so I can look at stuff like shift points, cycle the ABS etc. As you would know, a simple code reader just doesn't give enough info & can only clear the codes. Unfortunately I'm having trouble finding one in Australia as my truck was built for the Aust. market. The hunt is still on though.
ive done engine work since i was a kid im hoping i can duplicate my Success in Engines as well as in Transmissions im working on a 1997 astro Van!! Thanks for SHARING!!!!!!
My 94 Trans Am's transmission. Manufacturers don't much mention automatics suggested maintenance. Only in rear of an owner's manual,.... Always change old / burnt burnt ATF and filter man. Clean the trans pan with it's magnet too if it's equipped. Great video my fellow southpaw. Care to show the differences when adding a shift-kit? Something about forcing more fluid causing a noticeably harder shift.
When time permits, I'd like to dedicate a video to trans maintenance. Plus, add some extra things, that could potentially extend the life of the trans. Some of the extras don't cost much (especially when compared to the cost of an overhaul). Would love to do a video on valve-body kits! Thanks for dropping me a line. I appreciate your interest in this subject.
It's not until you watch a video like this that you actually get an appreciate of the genius that went into something we take for granted every day. Just coming up with the concept is one thing? Buy then actually engineere it, that's a whole new beast. Anyway I have a question for anyone who might be able to help? I'm running the 4L60e transmission and recently had work done to the motor. A full rebuild with a few modifications. A stage 2 cam. Performance headers into 2 & half" exhaust with high flow cats. As well as a cold air performance intake. Plus a few other tweaks. So now the shift points are out and other than dropping a manual gearbox in. And or fitting a stand alone transmission system? Is there a way it can adjust the shift points using a GM Tech 2 scan tool that is specifically set up for my model of car. It's the same one the dealership use when they go over it? And seeing that I've now modified the engine shouldn't have the PCM tuned /programmed to match the the newly modified engine? I was told that if I had the proper scan tool which I do. Can anyone give me a heads up on programming a PCM. Any help would be much appreciated.
Im working on JF015E/RE0F11A just now and man i wish there was some videos as good as thses for it, the explanation ofg the hydraulic system is the best iv seen
i Really liked this video, my 1-2 shift valve is stuck inside, how can dis happend? can i just try to take it with some cleaner or something? Thanks for all.
My 4l60e sometimes doesn't shift to first. No codes. New GM solenoids 2 years ago. The the thing is an 05 with 218k though. I know it's wore out. The friction material removed from the pan was ridiculous 2 years ago. The truck has been jumping on startup for months now. I imagine those cluches metal to metal.
That is a lot of miles, and friction material in the pan is never a good thing. You might wanna check out this video. Along the same lines... ruclips.net/video/4qXqzWFKPI0/видео.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks pulled the trans last week. The front left checkball was stuck in the separator plate and the 3/4 clutch teeth were half worn away. Going good now.
The front-most check-ball is used during the 1-2 up-shift, and the 2-1 down-shift. It's common for that check-ball to beat up the seat, in the separator plate. It can get stuck in the plate...and if it gets bad enough, it'll even blow completely through the plate. With the check-ball stuck in the plate, it will not prevent a 1-2 up-shift. It will probably delay the 2-1 down-shift. When shifting from Park to D, this check-ball will not be fed any oil. It's only when the trans commands a 1-2 up-shift, that this check-ball goes to work. 3-4 Clutch Plate Teeth: That's common for those to wear. Typically associated with 3-4 clutch failure. You had mentioned it was occasionally missing 1st gear. Was the trans also missing 3rd and 4th gear? Or slipping in those gears?
Great Video, looking forward to all of your videos, I do have an issue that needs explained what is happening, 2004 silverado 4l60E rebuilt about 25K miles ago, I have no codes, I have a fairly hard shift 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3 the engine revs up a bit before nicely shifting into 3rd, I was thinking the TCC Bore was leaking, but there is no code to support this, a good rebuild kit was installed with all new frictions, new sunshield, band, servo's etc... but nothing was done to the valve body as far as I know it was just reinstalled, had this issue for quite a while, I have purchased a rebuilt valve body but have not installed it yet, I am afraid it may be a bit over my head, but watching your video made me a bit more confident. and idea why it would rev anywhere from 5 to 7 hundred rpm before shifting into 3rd? Thank you Much Appreciate any answers.
Slipping during the 2-3 up-shift is typically foreshadowing of a 3-4 Clutch failure. There are a number of potential oil leaks in the 3-4 Clutch circuit. This leakage results in lower oil pressures, which results in clutch slippage. When time permits, I'll dedicate a video to this topic. Those elevated RPMs are killing the life of those clutches. If this goes on for too long, the clutches will fail...resulting in a trans failure/rebuild. Hope you can get it figured out soon.
Could be dealing with an AFL Valve that's wore out (actually the valve bore). Could also be a leaking bore plug for the 4-3 Sequence Valve. I would imagine that you'd have a code, though. If the PCM is commanding the trans to up-shift to 4th gear, the PCM will expect to see the engine RPM drop, after the shift. When it does not drop, the PCM may throw a code for incorrect gear ratio.
Robert, thanks for making this video. Subbed and thumbs up! The animation and narration is clear and top shelf. I think I understand it enough to diagnose a loss of line pressure just before going to 2nd. If I put into drive the PSI is 60 then when I begin to accelerate from a stop it drops to 30psi (yikes) for a second and it feels as though the trans is slipping or really just in limbo as the rpms don't spike. The line pressure goes to 60PSI and it feels like normal and is in 2nd. It does this in overdrive, manual 1st, 3rd, and 4th but not 2nd as it starts off in 2nd. Also of note is if I creep up slowly the rpms when leaving a stop the PSI doesn't drop, it's only when I accelerate normally and only momentarily. I'm guessing this is a sticky 1-2 shift valve or a weak/broken spring on the 1-2 shift valve causing a slow return after the solenoid is commanded off. Any thoughts?
The 1-2 shift valve redirects/permits oil flow. In 1st gear, it's a "closed door." When the PCM commands 2nd gear, the valve becomes an "open door," letting oil flow through/past the valve, and to the 2-4 Servo. There are a number of things that affect line pressure: Pump speed (engine RPM), pump volume (pump slide position), PR Valve (affects pump slide), etc. Also, the integrity of a clutch circuit will affect line pressure. Ideally, we want no leaks in any a given circuit. When we have leaks, we lose oil pressure (line pressure). There's more info, on a number of these topics....if you're interested. 4L60E Pump: How Does it Work: ruclips.net/video/gJ5CdPJoJyg/видео.html 4L60E PR Valve: Part 1: ruclips.net/video/ELhJlZridIY/видео.html Part 2: ruclips.net/video/dJlUec91kgY/видео.html Part 3: ruclips.net/video/PY1trZeLqTM/видео.html 4L60E AFL Valve: ruclips.net/video/LqBkdegPjNk/видео.html 4L60E Shift Solenoid: ruclips.net/video/FaChWmcsAgI/видео.html 4L60E Shift Valve: ruclips.net/video/jPhm76RDz6Y/видео.html
Thank you for taking the time to check it out! Your positive feedback is very appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
Thank you for all your videos, it's very educational. I bought a 2004 Gmc Yukon denali. I'm pretty sure the history on the vehicle I was not giving an honest answer, but I knew that before buy the Yukon. Few days ago I took it up to the mountains and it started to over heat close to 300 degrees. I let it cool down back to normal operation temp. And it didn't over heat go back. Next day I decided to change the trans fluid with filter. Put it back together drove it gave me a p0758 generic right away. 1st 2nd and 3rd react fine, until I put it into D then the speed and rpm do not match. Can you give me some advice of what I can do? Is it solenoid problem.
I just watched your very informative transmission video on a fl60 12 shift solenoid. The issue I'm having it will not shift into 3rd gear no check engine light, simply will not shift from 2nd to 3rd. My thoughts is I need a new 3-4 shift solenoid. Never had a transmission issue until this happened last week
I know this is an older post but I have watched about all of your 4L60E shift solenoid videos. I have questions if you are still around and available.I admire your strong capabilities , you know your stuff. Thanks. Micah Parris
@@SouthpawAutoworks I have replaced A &B solenoids. It was shifting hard into 3rd gear. Now the thing will go through all the gears but will not move reverse or forward , unless the truck temp gets to 210 or so. Then it will move forward just a bit but not reverse.
I'm a little confused by what you wrote. Lots of good info, but one thing that I'm not sure about. You said, "Now the thing will go through all the gears but will not move reverse or forward..." When you say this, do you mean that while the engine is idling, and the trans is in Park (and your foot is pushing on the brake), you can move the shifter through all of the different gears, and feel each gear engage (or bump)??? Or do you mean something else. You mentioned that after the trans comes up to temp (210 F), that the truck "will move forward just a bit". When you step on the gas, is the trans slipping (engine RPMs climb, but the truck isn't moving forward as it normally would)?
@@SouthpawAutoworks oh, sorry. I can move the shifter on the column and underneath at the shifter cable.. Makes me wonder if I lost something when I replaced the A and B solenoids.
So I have a 01 suburban that doesn’t shift out of 1st unless I lift throttle! And after lifting it seems to shit to 3rd but shifts to 4th and TC Lockup just fine. When I shift to 2nd manually it doesn’t shift, if go to 3rd manually it shifts as if in drive, once throttle is lifted. I was thinking it may of been shift solenoid but kinda doubting it after seeing this, what are your thoughts?
Like your videos, I gain so much info by watching them I have a question what causes transmission fluid to leak out of the breather port? Hopefully to hear from you thanks
so..north south oil channels on the bottom...east west oil channels on the top..divided by a plate and gasket with small openings..similar to rail switching gear it would seem. nice explanation.,,thx
Thanks Robert very informative. I have a silverado 4l60e with a problem it selects 1st and 2nd and reverse but when in drive there is nothing.Ive connected launch x431 no fault codes. If i activate shift solenoid 2 with the launch and van runs 100% through all the gears and feels like nothing is wrong. As soon as i turn off and restart there is no drive gear .It sounds like it is in neutral. I pulled the pan and its sparkling clean in there so i doubt its clutch related. Any help would be appreciated
Glad it's helpful. 4L60E vs 4L80E: They're completely different transmissions. The 4L80E does utilizes shift solenoids and shift valves, that operate in a similar manner. However, the solenoids have a different "firing order" than the 4L60E.
We have not done a 4L80E series, yet. However, we're currently working on a TH400 series. The 4L80E is essentially a TH400, with an Overdrive section added to it.
From Delray Florida. I have a problem with a 700r4, 1990 4 wheel drive suburban, 350tbi. The transmission shifts perfectly, but it clunks violently into gear hot or cold, but not always. I change the accumulator valve in the auxiliary valve body, based on a transmission shops recommendation, and it still does it randomly. Otherwise shifts up and down perfectly. I drove it back from Florida to New York towing another junk Silverado. Just that bloody clunk. U joints are new, it's 100% the tranny
The "garage shift." When the vehicle is parked in the garage (could be parked anywhere) and the engine is fired up, and the trans is shifted out of Park and shifted into Reverse, or Drive. An accumulator came to my mind as well. But, let me think about this condition you're experiencing, and get back to you. Questions: 1). Do you have an automatic transmission pressure gauge? Note: A typical gas engine oil pressure gauge doesn't read high enough for automatics. Automatics need a gauge that'll read over 300 PSI....for safety reasons, among others. 2). With the trans in Park, and the engine idling, what is the pressure reading? PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
I've personally had good luck with OTC products. Or at least products that have an OTC sticker on them. Who knows who makes anything anymore. =/ amzn.to/3NWZGiX DISCLOSURE: 🕵 As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Some, if not all, of the links contained in this video description (or comment) are affiliate links. This means that, at no additional cost to you, I will receive a small commission on any purchases you make through the website links provided above.
I have 2003 4x4 4l6oe 1 and reverse .with scaner can get 4 . Im new to tranys preasure was good a and b solinoids replaced still same no major metal in pan just fines 200000 miles on rig .your videos are great thank you any sugestions for next step
My 4L60 shifts from 1 to third No second or overdrive can’t seem to figure it out can you help It shifts from 1 to 3 when taking it easy but when I give it hard gas it doesn’t want to shift to the next gear unless I let go of the gas pedal
I have a question about the 4l60e in a 2001 astro awd. the MANIFOLD PRESSURE SWITCH clear plastic is warped in middle. Could this cause loss of R and and maybe not even lock up
I've been trying to get back to you...but, have been pressed for time. I shot a super short video, answering your question...and showing what to look for on the manifold pressure switch. Hoping to get that video uploaded, today.
@@SouthpawAutoworks the manifold pressure switch clear plastic is warped and makes me wonder if this caused the loss of reverse for me. The reverse and 2nd gear membrane swithes do not click or have any kind of reaction to pushing it.
The solenoids affect oil pressure, at the end of the valve. That pressure, or lack of pressure, results in valve movement. The valve acts as a doorway for a different oil pressure to go past/through/around the valve. The oil that moves past the valve is directed to a clutch piston. That oil pressure moves the piston and smashes (or applies) the clutch pack. That applied clutch directly affects the planetary gear set. Note: I mention clutch pack. This applies to the band, too. It will either: 1) Cause a portion of the gear set to rotate. 2). Prevent a portion of the gear set from rotating.
Hey man great video thank you! I’m having issue with my 4l60e. I have no second gear when the trans is cold, below roughly 100 degrees. After driving for about 5 minutes, everything operates normally. I’m stumped. Fluid level is ok.
If you have a short or problem in electrical circuit that goes to transmission could this effect function of it working at all. Tcc regulator valve is stuck open
If I replace transmission fluid , is old fluid still inside the hydraulic pump body ? Is there a way or a hole for the old fluid flow out when transmission fluid change ? Please reply and thanks !!!
Great video! I just installed a atk rebuilt 4l60e in my 2007 silverado and 1st 3rd and 4th feel great however the 1-2 shift in light throttle sometimes i feel two bumps when it makes its shift. What could that be and could it be a part of the learning of the adapts?
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thank you! Your explanation helps me a lot! I'm trying to make a test bench for automatic transmission from the electronic point of view and honestly have no idea of the basic to start the project. Thank you again!!
This is second time watching your awesome straight forward vid on solenoid 1,2 operation. I accidentally sjfted my 4l60E into Reverse doig 55 moh on thr freeway for a quick moment. I am missing 1, 2, overdrive gears. A scan revealedpoissible solenoid failure. I installed new ones to no avail. Im going to try to see if solenoid 1,2 is ghetting connrction., Suggestionbs please? thy Robert Tim.
I would love to....but, not sure when I'll have time to tackle that. These types of videos are more time-consuming than any other kind of video, featured on this channel. Thank you for your interest. Appreciate you being here.
That was very informative thank you. I just rebuilt my 2005 Honda Odyssey transmission. It runs great but once it warms up a little it shudders when leaving from a stop. However, if I manually put it in first gear a give it gas it doesn't shudder. I manually shift to second then Drive and all is well. The problem only occurs when I'm in Drive and start to go. I did not replace any of the electronics/solenoids as I thought they were working when the transmission went out. Any thoughts? Much appreciated.
Not sure. I will say that many transmissions can be operated with generic fluid, or even bulk fluid (with a vehicle/transmission specific additive, added during transmission filling). However, this is not the best practice with Honda transmissions. If you ran some generic type of fluid, you might want to try running genuine Honda ATF. The dealerships carry it. Can probably find it online, too. Wishing you the best of luck on this matter.
96 Express van w/5.7L engine. Went on a long trip, 8 hrs, hot day. On the way home got caught in stop and go freeway traffic, after about 10 minutes, 1st gear would bang into 2nd, going to check fluid level today, no leaks, has approximately 84K miles. I read something about a TFF solenoid? Thanks in advance for your help, Greg
I can't get my 4l60e to shift done bought a new valve body and sensors and it still is in limp mode 2nd and third manual and reverse. checked all fuses there good
A number of things can cause a trans to go into Limp Mode. Always best to start with the basics. Good call on checking fuses. Some GMs are known for having problems with the ignition switch (transmission electrical power runs through it). Check for power at the trans: Pull the plug at trans. Check for 12V at pin E. Note: Google image search, "4l60e pinout." Also pull codes. Retrieve everything...not just transmission.
@@SouthpawAutoworks I got 12 volts at pin e was thinking ignition or 3-2 downshift solenoid it's reading P0758 also the transmission replaced before I bought the truck.
OK....Finally figured out the issue. Maybe this can help others with strange 4l60e problems on a 1997 C1500 Chevy. The problem is that the PCM commands the shift solenoid B OFF , but it's internal volt meter is stuck on reading 0V at the wire coming from the 2-3 shift valve , even though truly 12V appears at the B solenoid ground pin when the solenoid is commanded OFF. With its internal volt meter stuck on 0V for shift solenoid B, it never sets the fault in 1st or 2nd or from the 1 to 2 shift, because solenoid "B" is always commanded ON in 1st and 2nd. The PCM is happy because 0V is what you would measure with an ON solenoid. The fault only occurs when the shift solenoid is turned OFF , the vehicle correctly makes the 2-3 shift and then a few seconds later CEL comes on and truck is in limp home 3rd gear. Now I was able to understand why shift solenoid B would always say "short circuit to ground" in the data stream as soon at the vehicle would go into limp home 3rd. ( IN OFF state PCM must measure 12V on ground wire ) So at the end of the day, I believe the transmission PCM failed 1st which caused the vehicle to only have 3rd gear (and manual 2nd if you dropped it down) . The original owner I believe drove the truck a long time in this failsafe mode, shifting down to 2nd at stops and shifting up to 3rd when moving. ( He died, so I can't prove but very likely )Over time this eventually overheated and burned up the reverse input drum and 2/4 band, leaving no 2nd or 4th gear. After I rebuilt the tranny, the transmission is perfectly fine but I was back to square one , now with a perfectly good tranny and a BAD PCM permanently reading/measuring 0V ( ON ) for the B solenoid ground wire.
Hey there, I know it's an older video but II'm hoping you will repsond..I am a female that was taken by a mechanic for my hard earned money:( Unfortunately, now I don't trust any of them! I do have someone new working on my car and I can watch them do the repairs and ask questions they offer information that's for sure. But this bad experience inspired me to learn EVERYTHING I possibly can about my car:) thank you for explaining in detail, because the other guy wanted to have me replace my transmission then had a slip of the lip saying he can rebuild mine so I can have an extra one, wait WHAT??
Sorry to hear about your negative experience. That's a real bummer. Happy to share. Excited to do more how-stuff-works videos, as time permits. Thanks for dropping us a line! We're glad that you're here.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Am I correct in researching the solenoid valve needing to be replaced because of a little slip in the trans, rather than a whole transmission replacement?
Generally speaking, a shift solenoid will not cause slipping. When there's a problem with a shift solenoid, it'll typically result in a missing gear...as opposed to slipping in a certain gear. There is an EPC Solenoid (Electronic Pressure Control). It affects the oil pressure that's used to apply the clutch packs (it's called Line Pressure). If an EPC Solenoid is failing, that could result in slipping. However, it will likely affect all gears, as opposed to just one gear.
Man I rebuilt my trans about 4 years ago .I did it with RUclips step by step first time it runs I've been to ceader city Utah also LA and and Las Vegas New Mexico.By the way I live in Las Vegas Nevada, but now my transmission Isn't shifting right im thinking Maybe sticky v oil, dirty oil.Maybe sticky valve something got Stuck in side the valve body making it slip between gears also 3 n 4 did I do something wrong?
My transmission in a Chevy Blazer 2002 only shifts into first gear I need to know what's going on with it if I need to know sensor or what and I need to know where the sensory is that changes the gears in it thank you
What's the history on the transmission? Was there other work recently done to the Blazer? (engine work, etc, etc) Is there a check engine light illuminated on the instrument cluster? What trouble codes are present? Does the transmission try to shift to 2nd gear, but when it does, the engine just revs but the vehicle stops pushing forward? (Like it's in Neutral) Does the trans not try to upshift to 2nd gear?
So glad I found your channel, the way you present this information is the best I’ve seen yet! I have a 2005 deep pan 4L60 w/145k that loses reverse and forward after warm up and a slight buzzing noise can be heard when the gears fail. Just dropped the pan and the filter looks to be clogged (I’m assuming oil starvation). Also noted the 1-2 solenoid is very loose in its bore, while the 3-4 is nice and snug. I plan to replace the 1-2 and filter, but wondering if the 1-2 and 3-4 are the same part? They look identical and a few parts sites seem to indicate that they are. Thanks again and happy to support you!
Regarding the filter, I've encountered this before. If there's enough clutch material settled in the bottom of the pan, after the engine/trans is fired up (and warmed up) that clutch material will start circulating through the fluid/trans, and plug the filter...yes, causing oil starvation. Cleaning the pan, and replacing the filter will take care of the issue....for now. The clutch material came from somewhere. In other words, something may be coming apart inside the trans. Just a heads up. The 1-2 valve-train is under load (a spring). The 2-3 valve-train has no spring. So, the 1-2 Shift Solenoid will be snug, and the 2-3 will wobble quite a bit...and this is normal. Both the shift solenoids are the exact same part. Glad you're enjoying the content. Really appreciate the positive feedback.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thanks for the lightning fast reply! OK, so I had the solenoids reversed, 3-4 is on the passenger side when trans installed, so I’m probably good with not replacing those. And yes, I’d say more debris than normal in this pan and on magnet - not terrible for first service at 145k, but the vehicle (Silverado) will now serve as a farm truck and won’t see many miles going forward. Thanks again, spectacular production quality!
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Thank you for being here!
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Does this also go for the 4l80e I have codes 81 82 83 👍
I don't know the history of the transmission I just bought the vehicle and it'll go in reverse neutral and first and second gear and that's it
Understood.
Chances are, the 3-4 Clutch is smoked. Super common problem on this transmission.
As the name implies, the 3-4 Clutch is partially responsible for 3rd gear and 4th gear.
I have a 1997 c1500 with 4l60e 1-piece case. Keep getting P0758 and have replaced both A and B shift solenoids. I can command them on /off through PCM and voltage drop occurs …they work . Can mechanical problem in valve body or transmission still cause P0758? No debris or clutch material found in pan …clean with normal metallic sludge on magnet
Is the trans missing/skipping 2nd or 3rd gear?
What's the history on trans?
High mileage unit? Recently rebuilt?
To answer your question...
Yes, there are mechanical, and hydraulic, problems that can exist in the valve-body, that can cause this code.
Shoot me some more info, and I'll see if I can get you pointed in the right direction.
Automatic transmissions have now entered the realm of magic for me. Unreal that you can explain this.
I'm in awe that people created these things.
@@SouthpawAutoworks people did not create them, people created machines, machines created them.
I've only watched this one video of yours and I am coming to the conclusion quickly and I believe you may have the best transmission videos on the internet at least for explaining to the beginner thank you for your service
That would be great! Thanks for dropping me a line!
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you could do alot worsethan watching and listening to this channel. Even my girlfriend(not very mechanically inclined)undrstood the content. cheers frrom Calgary.
Right on!!
2 min in video and I agree with you 100%
🙏
using that color coding to show the inner workings of the 4L60E transmission is a quality mark of a genius. No hesitations in your explanations and smooth talking puts your web page at the top of the list compared to what i seen in other show and tells. You are the grand master of your intellect for perpetrating such awesome detail to your audience. Kudo's go out to you sir.
I can't thank you enough to help me understand this type of transmission down to every detail. Transmissions were always a "hands off" thing to me because of their complexity making them so intimidating. Your videos really paid because they make understanding this transmission so easily. I've watched many other videos and they still left me scratching my head. So again sir, thank you for taking the time to make these videos to help people like me get the best understanding and gain the knowledge from a true expert. 👍👍
Right on! Glad to hear that.
Your interest in this subject is appreciated.
Thanks for taking the time to drop me a line.
PS I've got plans of making more video content, like this. Just a matter of time...
Same bro, same. Rear end, engine, chassis I can understand but autos are voodoo 🤷🏼♂️🤣
The best in depth explanation video for any transmission I've ever seen👍👍
I repair valvebodies at gm. Let me tell you these videos have made my job way easier figuring out why a valve was failing
Right on!
Thanks for 'arming' folks with some more knowledge! Seriously, that was well played sir! Great work! I like to teach people the basics in a powershift transmission, which is extremely similar to a complex 'auto' trans, but without any of the valving. Usually 1-3 clutch stacks and a F/R stack. That's it.
The positive feedback is appreciated.
John Deere power-shift? Right on!
Thanks for dropping me a line!
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1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
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@@SouthpawAutoworks It took me a few views to fealize thatyou only ha d the one hand, just goes to show that you can fix a tranny with only one hand as long as you have the motivaton to overcome problems in life
1 Handed Automatic Transmission Builder:
ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
November 5, 2022- Follow up to my 2nd post. Received the PCM I bought on Ebay ( by Flashmasters) and it fixed the transmission immediately. No more Shift solenoid B Fault and no more default 3rd gear. I was almost defeated after rebuilding an obviously burned up transmission only to install it and have the same fault that I started with. So, pay close attention to your scan tool solenoid open/short to ground/short to volt faults, because it very well could be the PCM. It is natural to assume an old truck has wiring harness issues, but don't overlook the PCM itself . And don't assume your vehicle only has one problem....in this case the tranny was indeed burned up but the PCM was also completely defective, because its internal volt meter was permanently stuck on 0V as it activated and monitored the B solenoid
i know nothing about cars, but holy heck this is helpful for understanding these kind of structures.
Right on.
Glad you enjoyed it.
Excellent explanation....No such detailed videos on internet about automatic transmission......This is the best channel for learning automatic transmission....
Really appreciate the positive feedback.
Thanks for dropping us a line.
Instant sub. Never seen your Chanel till today. The best teachings and illustrations I’ve seen by far. ❤love it!!
You knowledge and ability to communicate is unprecedented!!!!
The positive feedback is appreciated.
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
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@@SouthpawAutoworks will do. Thank you again
Love your videos. So clear with great visual explanations and animations. They are perfect. You obviously put alot more work into your videos than just turning on a recording camera. I'm gonna watch more ot them.
Wow, thank you!
New subscriber as of right now. You got me hooked. I do a lot of my own work and I’m playing with the concept of a 4L60E in my race truck instead of the th350 and this just solved my issue.
Right on!
Recently I rebuilt the 4l60e I commented on two weeks ago... the 2/4 input drum blue and band slipping (no 2nd or 4th gear) . Now the tranny is rebuilt, both shift solenoids replaced 2/3 shuttle valves inspected (smooth movement in the bore) and I replaced internal tranny wiring harness. But same 2/3 solenoid electrical fault occurs , but now AFTER the 2-3 shift occurs ..... Interestingly I can shift through every gear using scan tool from 1 to 4 and I have every gear going down the road. I can also downshift from 4 to 1 using the scan tool no problem. However, if I clear fault, and start from stop , it will shift from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, then about 2-3 seconds after the shift to 3rd , check engine light comes on and now I'm in failsafe 3rd gear again. (same 2/3 solenoid "B" electrical fault) . Since the 2/3 solenoid is commanded OFF for 3rd gear, I'm thinking this might be a problem inside the PCM, or PCM is not seeing the voltage rise fast enough after solenoid turned off . I can command the 2/3 solenoid on and off with scan tool and I hear it click on / off in the pan every time. Now I am starting to think the 2/4 band and drum originally burned up because previous owner was constantly using manual 2nd to start off and flicking to 3rd, since tranny was in failsafe all the time ( he died, so asking him is out of the question.) . I suspect this because the shift cable was originally misadjusted so that manual valve would only move to manual 2nd and not to manual 1st. You could physically not move it to manual 1st. Not sure what is going on, but definitely going to school on this one.
Thank you foe the clear explanation, please explain also about the accumulator, what is the function while several case 4l60e harsh shift 1-2 while the plastic accumulator is tear and wear. Thx
I loved it.🎉
Watched it in 1.75x and still got everything smooth into my brain 🧠
Now I'll have more proper knowledge while going to the mechanic and resolving my Toyota Harrier / Lexus Rx330 gearbox problem
Right on.
@SouthpawAutoworks BTW I got my transmission replaced for the peace of mind 😅
The shifts are smooth, it is just that when I floor the car. The gear takes lag to shift and a bit of aggressive shift. Perhaps can consider this from a V6 engine 3mz
wow! blown away by the detail, editing, and explanations, thank you
Thank you for your comment. Means a lot.
Have a great weekend.
GOOD ANIMATIONS caused my clear understanding. Thanks a lot
Right on!
Very great information. I plan on using your videos in our class at our Tech Center to help my students understand automatic transmissions. Outstanding. Great visuals.
Right on! Happy to hear that.
Your positive feedback is appreciated.
Thanks for taking the time to drop me a line.
I am working on the Allison transmission problem. Tipper TRUCK.
Great videos mate very easy to follow along. Im currently looking for the reason my silverado 4l60e feels like it slips/hesitates until i add rpm when selecting drive. Seems fine when cold but gets worse as it warms up. Reverse is normal with no issues and the car will drive along fine just slips from a stopped start. Any help would be greatly appreciated 👍
Great video and very informative. I have a question… I have a 1995 Camaro that seems to be missing second gear. First gear pulls normal however it won’t shift to second, if you lead off of the throttle it will jump straight to third and then fourth operates totally normal as well. If you step on the throttle enough to where it goes to downshift into second gear it will just rev almost like neutral. Can you help me out diagnosing this? Thanks
Did you ever figure this out??
12:05 …works as a WHOLE, and when you’re ARM with this knowledge…
What an amazingly detailed video. Mine randomly slips while in 4th gear so I got the shift solenoids & torque converter pwm solenoid, hoping that fixes the problem, but I really wanted more information on how those solenoids work and what they do. This video is a big help in understanding how the transmission works. I subscribed.
Here's a video dedicated to the shift solenoids.
4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation): ruclips.net/video/FaChWmcsAgI/видео.html
That condition could be caused by a number of things. Hoping to get back to creating more 4L60E videos, soon. Got a lot of different topics to cover, including this one.
Currently busy working on a TH400 build series.
ruclips.net/p/PLMK9OC5NGhbgVgAwDO_rCGFF38T1LjkS7
The positive feedback (and the subscription) is appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
I really appreciate all that you do it helps tremendously my question is I recently changed the oil and filter in my 4l60e the reason for this is when I reach 30 mph its like it goes into neutral while I had the pan and off out of the way I was checking out the shift solenoids when I pushed in on them the one closest to the front of the transmission it would come back out on it's own the other one I had to pull it back out is this normal or should they be charged because it is still doing the same thing as before
Regarding the solenoids, that's normal. One solenoid is under spring tension. The other is not.
If the trans is trying to shift into 3rd gear, and instead of getting 3rd gear, it feels like neutral, chances are that the 3-4 Clutch is failing. As the name implies, it partially responsible for creating both 3rd gear and 4th gear.
It's a very common failure point on the 4L60E.
What's the part number for those solenoids?
Thanks for the video. im diagnosing a freshly rebuilt 4660e that wont downshift back to first . using this and not having any diagnostic codes i was able to determine my problem is not the 1-2 solenoid. so on to the next video
Interesting...
If you shift it into Manual 1st ("1" on the shifter), what happens?
Great video, you should do a weekend Rebuild Transmission Seminar👍
Awesome! I just tripped across this video (I'll make sure to watch more) I wish it had come up in my many searches on the 4L60e. I do have a question & while I get there are soooo many different possibilities as to the cause of my problem, some of which I have already dealt with by replacing sensors. I have a K1500 Suburban with a 4L60e that appears to shift fine in the mornings but come later in the day (only short drives to & from work) the trans shifts up very early & bogs down. In fact, if you put your foot on the gas it shifts up first & not pick up revs or even shift down. It will then shift down given a little time but then it will shift straight up again. Some history, when I put 33" tyres on a couple of years ago, it started throwing a trans code on the odd occasion & reacted the same, but if I cleared the code, it came good & it sometimes wouldn't happen again for a few weeks or months. I have since gone to 35" tyres but changed the diff to a 4:56 which is pretty close to stock gearing, if anything it's probably a little the other way as the tyres only measure 34 1/2" but its certainly improved off the line, around town & is great for off road. I have replaced the TPS & MAF in this hunt. Unfortunately I don't have the Tech 2 GM OBD unit yet so I can see what the % of the throttle is, but it's odd that it seems to shift fine in the mornings, if anything, it shifts GREAT with very positive shifts as I would expect from a trans that was built with a shift kit for towing a few years ago. I am a bit suspect on a vacuum leak as I sometimes can smell fuel but I'm unsure if there are any sensors ties to the trans that would effect it, especially as I mentioned, it seems fine in the mornings. It plays up when I come home for lunch as it does after work. very odd to me with the limited knowledge I have with transmissions. More recently when I back off the gas, the revs will drop very low. I have had a stuck IAC a couple of times & am about to order a new one. P.S. The Suburban is actually Australian Delivered as R/H Drive & as a Holden, so finding a proper Tech 2 for it is proving a challenge but as I do all my own mechanical (I rebuilt a 14 bolt rear diff for it last year with a locker) & she is being built as our camping rig, we intend to keep the old girl especially as they are not very common here in Oz. I appreciate any thoughts on what could be causing the problem. Cheers!! Rod. (sorry for the essay!)
You've got a lot going on here... I've read this comment of yours twice, trying to gather info.
First and foremost, drivability (engine) problems can/will affect transmission performance. Always best to address all engine problems before chasing transmission problems. The PCM (4L60E computer) gathers info from a number of engine sensors, and it makes "decisions" based on the input received from those sensors.
Tire Size:
The PCM is constantly watching engine load (MAF, TPS, etc) and road speed (speed sensors).
Changing the tire size can affect the speed sensor info that the PCM is receiving. Because of ABS (Anti-Locking Brake) systems, many vehicle are equipped with speed sensors at each wheel. I'm not sure if this is the case with your vehicle...
Temperature:
For emissions purposes, engineers have designed the vehicles to warm up as fast as possible. When the vehicle is cold, all up-shifts are delayed. The TCC (torque converter clutch) is typically inhibited.
Doing these things raises the engine RPMS, which raises engine temp faster. However, as the engine warms up, the shifts will occur sooner.
This may explain why your engine shifts normally when cold....and shifts too soon when the engine warms up.
Once again, I'd start by addressing engine problems. If the problem still persists, I'd be leaning towards the tire size and differential mod. PCM might need to be re-programmed.
Thank you for the positive feedback!
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@@SouthpawAutoworks Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have been sorting through the problems with the old girl & learning heaps as I go. I'm pretty much old school so learning all the sensors etc has been a challenge but I'm enjoying figuring out what makes it tick. Now that you have mentioned the ABS, I have also done a complete brake upgrade (disc conversion on the 14 bolt rear when I built it, upgraded discs & callipers on the front plus a bigger master cylinder to suit. I am yet to sort the ABS light as I need to cycle the ABS (another reason to purchase a Tech 2) then re-bleed the brakes, though it is pulling up ok at the moment. Yes, there is ABS sensors on the front only, I wonder if that is contributing to the trans problem?? Because of the diff ratio change to suit the larger tyres, I'm not sure that is actually the problem as the gearing is close to stock but of course I can't rule it out. As far as temp is concerned, I nearly always let my truck warm up in the mornings because of the short drive, but it's odd that after it sits until lunchtime, almost straight away the early shifting happens. I wonder if it can be ambient temperature ?? it's the same when I drive home after work, if anything, I think it is worse later in the day, if that's possible?? Yes, I'm happy to share your work, helping each other is what it's all about! CHEERS!
I also enjoy learning how stuff ticks. And there's always something to learn!
When time permits, I'll be creating a video series that shows how engine problems (and other systems) can cause transmission problems.
Can you pull all of the trouble codes?
Note: If you recently reset trouble codes, drive it long enough (minutes, days, etc) to bring back all of the original codes.
@@SouthpawAutoworks No, no codes at the moment, which is why I need to get my hands on a Tech 2 for this vehicle so I can look at stuff like shift points, cycle the ABS etc. As you would know, a simple code reader just doesn't give enough info & can only clear the codes. Unfortunately I'm having trouble finding one in Australia as my truck was built for the Aust. market. The hunt is still on though.
Understood.
Wishing you the best of luck with your hunt.
ive done engine work since i was a kid im hoping i can duplicate my Success in Engines as well as in Transmissions im working on a 1997 astro Van!! Thanks for SHARING!!!!!!
Right on!
You bet. Thanks for commenting.
@@SouthpawAutoworks greetings
My 94 Trans Am's transmission. Manufacturers don't much mention automatics suggested maintenance. Only in rear of an owner's manual,.... Always change old / burnt burnt ATF and filter man. Clean the trans pan with it's magnet too if it's equipped. Great video my fellow southpaw. Care to show the differences when adding a
shift-kit? Something about forcing more fluid causing a noticeably harder shift.
When time permits, I'd like to dedicate a video to trans maintenance. Plus, add some extra things, that could potentially extend the life of the trans. Some of the extras don't cost much (especially when compared to the cost of an overhaul).
Would love to do a video on valve-body kits!
Thanks for dropping me a line.
I appreciate your interest in this subject.
My Brother
I want know about TEREX hydraulic Crane PPM ATT600 ( Electronic switch shifting gear detail please
Thank u
well explained aPic is Worth a thousand Words!!! THanks for Sharing!!
My pleasure!
It's not until you watch a video like this that you actually get an appreciate of the genius that went into something we take for granted every day. Just coming up with the concept is one thing? Buy then actually engineere it, that's a whole new beast. Anyway I have a question for anyone who might be able to help? I'm running the 4L60e transmission and recently had work done to the motor. A full rebuild with a few modifications. A stage 2 cam. Performance headers into 2 & half" exhaust with high flow cats. As well as a cold air performance intake. Plus a few other tweaks. So now the shift points are out and other than dropping a manual gearbox in. And or fitting a stand alone transmission system? Is there a way it can adjust the shift points using a GM Tech 2 scan tool that is specifically set up for my model of car. It's the same one the dealership use when they go over it? And seeing that I've now modified the engine shouldn't have the PCM tuned /programmed to match the the newly modified engine? I was told that if I had the proper scan tool which I do. Can anyone give me a heads up on programming a PCM. Any help would be much appreciated.
What causes the Hydraulic oil to mix with the Transmission oil...
Спасибо тебе Роберт за твой канал. Он помогает мне многое понять. Ты великолепный учитель! Thank you!
Положительный отзыв приветствуется.
Спасибо.
Im working on JF015E/RE0F11A just now and man i wish there was some videos as good as thses for it, the explanation ofg the hydraulic system is the best iv seen
Really appreciate the positive feedback.
i Really liked this video, my 1-2 shift valve is stuck inside, how can dis happend? can i just try to take it with some cleaner or something? Thanks for all.
My 4l60e sometimes doesn't shift to first. No codes. New GM solenoids 2 years ago. The the thing is an 05 with 218k though. I know it's wore out. The friction material removed from the pan was ridiculous 2 years ago. The truck has been jumping on startup for months now. I imagine those cluches metal to metal.
That is a lot of miles, and friction material in the pan is never a good thing.
You might wanna check out this video. Along the same lines...
ruclips.net/video/4qXqzWFKPI0/видео.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks pulled the trans last week. The front left checkball was stuck in the separator plate and the 3/4 clutch teeth were half worn away. Going good now.
The front-most check-ball is used during the 1-2 up-shift, and the 2-1 down-shift. It's common for that check-ball to beat up the seat, in the separator plate. It can get stuck in the plate...and if it gets bad enough, it'll even blow completely through the plate.
With the check-ball stuck in the plate, it will not prevent a 1-2 up-shift. It will probably delay the 2-1 down-shift.
When shifting from Park to D, this check-ball will not be fed any oil. It's only when the trans commands a 1-2 up-shift, that this check-ball goes to work.
3-4 Clutch Plate Teeth:
That's common for those to wear. Typically associated with 3-4 clutch failure.
You had mentioned it was occasionally missing 1st gear.
Was the trans also missing 3rd and 4th gear? Or slipping in those gears?
Great Video, looking forward to all of your videos, I do have an issue that needs explained what is happening, 2004 silverado 4l60E rebuilt about 25K miles ago, I have no codes, I have a fairly hard shift 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3 the engine revs up a bit before nicely shifting into 3rd, I was thinking the TCC Bore was leaking, but there is no code to support this, a good rebuild kit was installed with all new frictions, new sunshield, band, servo's etc... but nothing was done to the valve body as far as I know it was just reinstalled, had this issue for quite a while, I have purchased a rebuilt valve body but have not installed it yet, I am afraid it may be a bit over my head, but watching your video made me a bit more confident. and idea why it would rev anywhere from 5 to 7 hundred rpm before shifting into 3rd? Thank you Much Appreciate any answers.
Slipping during the 2-3 up-shift is typically foreshadowing of a 3-4 Clutch failure.
There are a number of potential oil leaks in the 3-4 Clutch circuit. This leakage results in lower oil pressures, which results in clutch slippage.
When time permits, I'll dedicate a video to this topic.
Those elevated RPMs are killing the life of those clutches. If this goes on for too long, the clutches will fail...resulting in a trans failure/rebuild.
Hope you can get it figured out soon.
Love the videos. Just came across mine not wanting to shift into last at 50-55 Just more rpm not shifting No codes
Could be dealing with an AFL Valve that's wore out (actually the valve bore). Could also be a leaking bore plug for the 4-3 Sequence Valve.
I would imagine that you'd have a code, though. If the PCM is commanding the trans to up-shift to 4th gear, the PCM will expect to see the engine RPM drop, after the shift. When it does not drop, the PCM may throw a code for incorrect gear ratio.
Robert, thanks for making this video. Subbed and thumbs up! The animation and narration is clear and top shelf.
I think I understand it enough to diagnose a loss of line pressure just before going to 2nd. If I put into drive the PSI is 60 then when I begin to accelerate from a stop it drops to 30psi (yikes) for a second and it feels as though the trans is slipping or really just in limbo as the rpms don't spike. The line pressure goes to 60PSI and it feels like normal and is in 2nd. It does this in overdrive, manual 1st, 3rd, and 4th but not 2nd as it starts off in 2nd. Also of note is if I creep up slowly the rpms when leaving a stop the PSI doesn't drop, it's only when I accelerate normally and only momentarily. I'm guessing this is a sticky 1-2 shift valve or a weak/broken spring on the 1-2 shift valve causing a slow return after the solenoid is commanded off. Any thoughts?
The 1-2 shift valve redirects/permits oil flow.
In 1st gear, it's a "closed door." When the PCM commands 2nd gear, the valve becomes an "open door," letting oil flow through/past the valve, and to the 2-4 Servo.
There are a number of things that affect line pressure:
Pump speed (engine RPM), pump volume (pump slide position), PR Valve (affects pump slide), etc.
Also, the integrity of a clutch circuit will affect line pressure. Ideally, we want no leaks in any a given circuit. When we have leaks, we lose oil pressure (line pressure).
There's more info, on a number of these topics....if you're interested.
4L60E Pump:
How Does it Work: ruclips.net/video/gJ5CdPJoJyg/видео.html
4L60E PR Valve:
Part 1: ruclips.net/video/ELhJlZridIY/видео.html
Part 2: ruclips.net/video/dJlUec91kgY/видео.html
Part 3: ruclips.net/video/PY1trZeLqTM/видео.html
4L60E AFL Valve:
ruclips.net/video/LqBkdegPjNk/видео.html
4L60E Shift Solenoid:
ruclips.net/video/FaChWmcsAgI/видео.html
4L60E Shift Valve:
ruclips.net/video/jPhm76RDz6Y/видео.html
Great videos! Best informational videos about how a 4l60e works on youtube!
Thank you for taking the time to check it out!
Your positive feedback is very appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
Thank you for all your videos, it's very educational. I bought a 2004 Gmc Yukon denali. I'm pretty sure the history on the vehicle I was not giving an honest answer, but I knew that before buy the Yukon. Few days ago I took it up to the mountains and it started to over heat close to 300 degrees. I let it cool down back to normal operation temp. And it didn't over heat go back. Next day I decided to change the trans fluid with filter. Put it back together drove it gave me a p0758 generic right away. 1st 2nd and 3rd react fine, until I put it into D then the speed and rpm do not match. Can you give me some advice of what I can do? Is it solenoid problem.
I just watched your very informative transmission video on a fl60 12 shift solenoid. The issue I'm having it will not shift into 3rd gear no check engine light, simply will not shift from 2nd to 3rd. My thoughts is I need a new 3-4 shift solenoid. Never had a transmission issue until this happened last week
Were you able to get to the bottom of this problem?
best explanation on youtube, makes it easier for a rookie like me to learn, thanks have hit subscribe.
Right on! Welcome aboard!
Really appreciate the positive feedback.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
I know this is an older post but I have watched about all of your 4L60E shift solenoid videos. I have questions if you are still around and available.I admire your strong capabilities , you know your stuff. Thanks. Micah Parris
Very kind of you.
This is the best way to reach me. Please know that I'm typically slow to respond.
@@SouthpawAutoworks I have replaced A &B solenoids. It was shifting hard into 3rd gear. Now the thing will go through all the gears but will not move reverse or forward , unless the truck temp gets to 210 or so. Then it will move forward just a bit but not reverse.
I'm a little confused by what you wrote. Lots of good info, but one thing that I'm not sure about.
You said, "Now the thing will go through all the gears but will not move reverse or forward..."
When you say this, do you mean that while the engine is idling, and the trans is in Park (and your foot is pushing on the brake), you can move the shifter through all of the different gears, and feel each gear engage (or bump)??? Or do you mean something else.
You mentioned that after the trans comes up to temp (210 F), that the truck "will move forward just a bit". When you step on the gas, is the trans slipping (engine RPMs climb, but the truck isn't moving forward as it normally would)?
@@SouthpawAutoworks oh, sorry. I can move the shifter on the column and underneath at the shifter cable.. Makes me wonder if I lost something when I replaced the A and B solenoids.
Where can I buy the solenoid and valve and spring???
So I have a 01 suburban that doesn’t shift out of 1st unless I lift throttle! And after lifting it seems to shit to 3rd but shifts to 4th and TC Lockup just fine. When I shift to 2nd manually it doesn’t shift, if go to 3rd manually it shifts as if in drive, once throttle is lifted. I was thinking it may of been shift solenoid but kinda doubting it after seeing this, what are your thoughts?
Awesome video! Great share. Thank you for helping me teach my boys! 🤙🏼🍻
Right on!
You bet!
Saludos! Mi transmisión 5140e no aplica el "parking" se queda en neutral. Cuál es el solenoide de "parking"?
Tip of the hat 2 uu Legend , I deeply appreciate your time your sacrifice for tha better of us ❤
Appreciate you taking the time to drop me a line.
Your videos are so detailed and easy to follow. Thank you!
Thanks for stopping by and checking it out!
I'm excited for you to get your fitness videos rolling. You're gonna do awesome...I just know it.
மிக்க நன்றி அருமையான பதிவு👏👏👏
Like your videos, I gain so much info by watching them I have a question what causes transmission fluid to leak out of the breather port? Hopefully to hear from you thanks
so..north south oil channels on the bottom...east west oil channels on the top..divided by a plate and gasket with small openings..similar to rail switching gear it would seem.
nice explanation.,,thx
Yes, exactly.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Thanks Robert very informative.
I have a silverado 4l60e with a problem it selects 1st and 2nd and reverse but when in drive there is nothing.Ive connected launch x431 no fault codes. If i activate shift solenoid 2 with the launch and van runs 100% through all the gears and feels like nothing is wrong.
As soon as i turn off and restart there is no drive gear .It sounds like it is in neutral.
I pulled the pan and its sparkling clean in there so i doubt its clutch related.
Any help would be appreciated
I like how you go about it I can understand it kind of hard to keep up with the other guys on here is a 4l60 about the same as a 4l80 e
Glad it's helpful.
4L60E vs 4L80E:
They're completely different transmissions.
The 4L80E does utilizes shift solenoids and shift valves, that operate in a similar manner. However, the solenoids have a different "firing order" than the 4L60E.
@@SouthpawAutoworks I think you guys are doing a great job
Have you done a 4L80E series thank you guys are doing a great job it's helped me out a lot thank you
We have not done a 4L80E series, yet. However, we're currently working on a TH400 series.
The 4L80E is essentially a TH400, with an Overdrive section added to it.
Thank you for the kind words.
From Delray Florida. I have a problem with a 700r4, 1990 4 wheel drive suburban, 350tbi. The transmission shifts perfectly, but it clunks violently into gear hot or cold, but not always. I change the accumulator valve in the auxiliary valve body, based on a transmission shops recommendation, and it still does it randomly. Otherwise shifts up and down perfectly. I drove it back from Florida to New York towing another junk Silverado. Just that bloody clunk. U joints are new, it's 100% the tranny
The "garage shift." When the vehicle is parked in the garage (could be parked anywhere) and the engine is fired up, and the trans is shifted out of Park and shifted into Reverse, or Drive.
An accumulator came to my mind as well. But, let me think about this condition you're experiencing, and get back to you.
Questions:
1). Do you have an automatic transmission pressure gauge?
Note: A typical gas engine oil pressure gauge doesn't read high enough for automatics. Automatics need a gauge that'll read over 300 PSI....for safety reasons, among others.
2). With the trans in Park, and the engine idling, what is the pressure reading?
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks ok, I'll buy a gauge. The $20 Amazon units have lousy ratings. I guess I'll have to spend? $40? $50? Recommendation? Thank you
I've personally had good luck with OTC products. Or at least products that have an OTC sticker on them. Who knows who makes anything anymore. =/
amzn.to/3NWZGiX
DISCLOSURE: 🕵
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Some, if not all, of the links contained in this video description (or comment) are affiliate links. This means that, at no additional cost to you, I will receive a small commission on any purchases you make through the website links provided above.
I have 2003 4x4 4l6oe 1 and reverse .with scaner can get 4 . Im new to tranys preasure was good a and b solinoids replaced still same no major metal in pan just fines 200000 miles on rig .your videos are great thank you any sugestions for next step
One of the more in depth videos I've seen. Definitely subscribing.
Right on!
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Do the same thing apply to the 4l80e transmission???
My 4L60 shifts from 1 to third No second or overdrive can’t seem to figure it out can you help It shifts from 1 to 3 when taking it easy but when I give it hard gas it doesn’t want to shift to the next gear unless I let go of the gas pedal
Same. Did you figure out what it was?
I'm working on a 700 r4 4x4 its in a 89 Chevy pickup and the reverse
Wonderful Presentation.....YOU JUST WON A NEW SUBSCRIBER...THANKS
Welcome aboard!
The positive feedback is appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line, Jose.
What causes a hard shift into Reverse from PD321? Thanks! 2001 Chevy Astro AWD 4L60E
Beautiful explanation Southpaw ;;;;
Crystal Clear & Simple - Thanx Guy 😊
My pleasure.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
I have a question about the 4l60e in a 2001 astro awd. the MANIFOLD PRESSURE SWITCH clear plastic is warped in middle. Could this cause loss of R and and maybe not even lock up
I've been trying to get back to you...but, have been pressed for time.
I shot a super short video, answering your question...and showing what to look for on the manifold pressure switch.
Hoping to get that video uploaded, today.
Thank you!
@@SouthpawAutoworks the manifold pressure switch clear plastic is warped and makes me wonder if this caused the loss of reverse for me. The reverse and 2nd gear membrane swithes do not click or have any kind of reaction to pushing it.
Here's my Response:
ruclips.net/video/Wie4lbppOu4/видео.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks thank u 👍
And what does any of this have to do with changing gears within the transmission itself? Does this affect clutch packs and planetary gears, etc.? How?
The solenoids affect oil pressure, at the end of the valve. That pressure, or lack of pressure, results in valve movement. The valve acts as a doorway for a different oil pressure to go past/through/around the valve. The oil that moves past the valve is directed to a clutch piston. That oil pressure moves the piston and smashes (or applies) the clutch pack. That applied clutch directly affects the planetary gear set.
Note: I mention clutch pack. This applies to the band, too.
It will either:
1) Cause a portion of the gear set to rotate.
2). Prevent a portion of the gear set from rotating.
Hey man great video thank you! I’m having issue with my 4l60e. I have no second gear when the trans is cold, below roughly 100 degrees. After driving for about 5 minutes, everything operates normally. I’m stumped. Fluid level is ok.
maybe not enough oil presure when cold
Thanks for the video! Best explain on youtube so far!
Right on!
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Dude great video lol I was double checking removing a transmission for a rear main seal and came across your channel very insightful
Right on!
Glad you found the channel.
Nice job! Good illustrations!
Appreciate it!
Incredibly helpful explanation
Glad to hear that!
If you have a short or problem in electrical circuit that goes to transmission could this effect function of it working at all. Tcc regulator valve is stuck open
Nice work 👏! Please give some knowledge on the tcm how it works and how to check if it's good or bad ..... thanks
Would love to cover that topic!.....when time permits.
The positive feedback is appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
If I replace transmission fluid , is old fluid still inside the hydraulic pump body ? Is there a way or a hole for the old fluid flow out when transmission fluid change ? Please reply and thanks !!!
Real g 🔥 with the ending of the video thanks boss
Great video! I just installed a atk rebuilt 4l60e in my 2007 silverado and 1st 3rd and 4th feel great however the 1-2 shift in light throttle sometimes i feel two bumps when it makes its shift. What could that be and could it be a part of the learning of the adapts?
Informative Video , thank you , pls I want oil flow schematic in pdf with explanation , if you have pls sent me
This was a perfect video and incredibly helpful! Does the 1-2 shift solenoid also control the transmission shifting from 2nd gear into 3rd?
The 2-3 Shift Solenoid controls the 2-3 Shift Valve-train, which controls that upshift.
Sir can u help me with my kio rio not running when switch to drive
Amazing way to explain the basic! Awesome work!! Fully subscribed!!
Thanks, Alejandro! Welcome aboard!
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thank you! Your explanation helps me a lot! I'm trying to make a test bench for automatic transmission from the electronic point of view and honestly have no idea of the basic to start the project. Thank you again!!
This is second time watching your awesome straight forward vid on solenoid 1,2 operation. I accidentally sjfted my 4l60E into Reverse doig 55 moh on thr freeway for a quick moment. I am missing 1, 2, overdrive gears. A scan revealedpoissible solenoid failure. I installed new ones to no avail. Im going to try to see if solenoid 1,2 is ghetting connrction., Suggestionbs please? thy Robert Tim.
Can you do one a 2004r for a Buick grand national
I would love to....but, not sure when I'll have time to tackle that. These types of videos are more time-consuming than any other kind of video, featured on this channel.
Thank you for your interest. Appreciate you being here.
Hy you have a new fan from Malaysia
Right on!
Can i save my transmission changing these solenoids
It really depends on what your trans is doing, or not doing.
Does the 4T60 share the same electronic valve body and internal hardware? Or are they unrelated?
That was very informative thank you. I just rebuilt my 2005 Honda Odyssey transmission. It runs great but once it warms up a little it shudders when leaving from a stop. However, if I manually put it in first gear a give it gas it doesn't shudder. I manually shift to second then Drive and all is well. The problem only occurs when I'm in Drive and start to go. I did not replace any of the electronics/solenoids as I thought they were working when the transmission went out. Any thoughts? Much appreciated.
Not sure.
I will say that many transmissions can be operated with generic fluid, or even bulk fluid (with a vehicle/transmission specific additive, added during transmission filling). However, this is not the best practice with Honda transmissions.
If you ran some generic type of fluid, you might want to try running genuine Honda ATF. The dealerships carry it. Can probably find it online, too.
Wishing you the best of luck on this matter.
@@SouthpawAutoworks I did use Honda ATF. I wonder why it does it only after it warms up?
Excellent presentation!
Thank you kindly!
Very nice for ur basic teacher from mechanic Pinoy thanks 🙏
My pleasure.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
I need a shift solenoid b any help??!!
What would delay a 4L60E going into 1st gear from a dead stop-particularly when using towing mode?
96 Express van w/5.7L engine. Went on a long trip, 8 hrs, hot day. On the way home got caught in stop and go freeway traffic, after about 10 minutes, 1st gear would bang into 2nd, going to check fluid level today, no leaks, has approximately 84K miles. I read something about a TFF solenoid? Thanks in advance for your help, Greg
I can't get my 4l60e to shift done bought a new valve body and sensors and it still is in limp mode 2nd and third manual and reverse. checked all fuses there good
A number of things can cause a trans to go into Limp Mode. Always best to start with the basics.
Good call on checking fuses.
Some GMs are known for having problems with the ignition switch (transmission electrical power runs through it).
Check for power at the trans:
Pull the plug at trans. Check for 12V at pin E.
Note: Google image search, "4l60e pinout."
Also pull codes.
Retrieve everything...not just transmission.
@@SouthpawAutoworks I got 12 volts at pin e was thinking ignition or 3-2 downshift solenoid it's reading P0758 also the transmission replaced before I bought the truck.
If anyone as any ideas what I should do next please let me know thanks.
I can also can get it to shift into overdrive was I reset it going down the rode but 3 or 4 seconds shifts back into 3rd.
OK....Finally figured out the issue. Maybe this can help others with strange 4l60e problems on a 1997 C1500 Chevy. The problem is that the PCM commands the shift solenoid B OFF , but it's internal volt meter is stuck on reading 0V at the wire coming from the 2-3 shift valve , even though truly 12V appears at the B solenoid ground pin when the solenoid is commanded OFF. With its internal volt meter stuck on 0V for shift solenoid B, it never sets the fault in 1st or 2nd or from the 1 to 2 shift, because solenoid "B" is always commanded ON in 1st and 2nd. The PCM is happy because 0V is what you would measure with an ON solenoid. The fault only occurs when the shift solenoid is turned OFF , the vehicle correctly makes the 2-3 shift and then a few seconds later CEL comes on and truck is in limp home 3rd gear. Now I was able to understand why shift solenoid B would always say "short circuit to ground" in the data stream as soon at the vehicle would go into limp home 3rd. ( IN OFF state PCM must measure 12V on ground wire ) So at the end of the day, I believe the transmission PCM failed 1st which caused the vehicle to only have 3rd gear (and manual 2nd if you dropped it down) . The original owner I believe drove the truck a long time in this failsafe mode, shifting down to 2nd at stops and shifting up to 3rd when moving. ( He died, so I can't prove but very likely )Over time this eventually overheated and burned up the reverse input drum and 2/4 band, leaving no 2nd or 4th gear. After I rebuilt the tranny, the transmission is perfectly fine but I was back to square one , now with a perfectly good tranny and a BAD PCM permanently reading/measuring 0V ( ON ) for the B solenoid ground wire.
Valve body’s and separator plates have always been like voodoo to me. I can’t imagine how someone invented that. But I’m glad they did.
It is crazy. Quite an imagination...
Hey there, I know it's an older video but II'm hoping you will repsond..I am a female that was taken by a mechanic for my hard earned money:( Unfortunately, now I don't trust any of them!
I do have someone new working on my car and I can watch them do the repairs and ask questions they offer information that's for sure. But this bad experience inspired me to learn EVERYTHING I possibly can about my car:) thank you for explaining in detail, because the other guy wanted to have me replace my transmission then had a slip of the lip saying he can rebuild mine so I can have an extra one, wait WHAT??
Sorry to hear about your negative experience. That's a real bummer.
Happy to share. Excited to do more how-stuff-works videos, as time permits.
Thanks for dropping us a line!
We're glad that you're here.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Am I correct in researching the solenoid valve needing to be replaced because of a little slip in the trans, rather than a whole transmission replacement?
Generally speaking, a shift solenoid will not cause slipping. When there's a problem with a shift solenoid, it'll typically result in a missing gear...as opposed to slipping in a certain gear.
There is an EPC Solenoid (Electronic Pressure Control). It affects the oil pressure that's used to apply the clutch packs (it's called Line Pressure). If an EPC Solenoid is failing, that could result in slipping. However, it will likely affect all gears, as opposed to just one gear.
Man I rebuilt my trans about 4 years ago .I did it with RUclips step by step first time it runs I've been to ceader city Utah also LA and and Las Vegas New Mexico.By the way I live in Las Vegas Nevada, but now my transmission Isn't shifting right im thinking Maybe sticky v oil, dirty oil.Maybe sticky valve something got Stuck in side the valve body making it slip between gears also 3 n 4 did I do something wrong?
My transmission in a Chevy Blazer 2002 only shifts into first gear I need to know what's going on with it if I need to know sensor or what and I need to know where the sensory is that changes the gears in it thank you
What's the history on the transmission?
Was there other work recently done to the Blazer? (engine work, etc, etc)
Is there a check engine light illuminated on the instrument cluster?
What trouble codes are present?
Does the transmission try to shift to 2nd gear, but when it does, the engine just revs but the vehicle stops pushing forward? (Like it's in Neutral)
Does the trans not try to upshift to 2nd gear?
So glad I found your channel, the way you present this information is the best I’ve seen yet! I have a 2005 deep pan 4L60 w/145k that loses reverse and forward after warm up and a slight buzzing noise can be heard when the gears fail. Just dropped the pan and the filter looks to be clogged (I’m assuming oil starvation). Also noted the 1-2 solenoid is very loose in its bore, while the 3-4 is nice and snug. I plan to replace the 1-2 and filter, but wondering if the 1-2 and 3-4 are the same part? They look identical and a few parts sites seem to indicate that they are. Thanks again and happy to support you!
Regarding the filter, I've encountered this before. If there's enough clutch material settled in the bottom of the pan, after the engine/trans is fired up (and warmed up) that clutch material will start circulating through the fluid/trans, and plug the filter...yes, causing oil starvation.
Cleaning the pan, and replacing the filter will take care of the issue....for now.
The clutch material came from somewhere. In other words, something may be coming apart inside the trans. Just a heads up.
The 1-2 valve-train is under load (a spring). The 2-3 valve-train has no spring. So, the 1-2 Shift Solenoid will be snug, and the 2-3 will wobble quite a bit...and this is normal.
Both the shift solenoids are the exact same part.
Glad you're enjoying the content.
Really appreciate the positive feedback.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thanks for the lightning fast reply! OK, so I had the solenoids reversed, 3-4 is on the passenger side when trans installed, so I’m probably good with not replacing those. And yes, I’d say more debris than normal in this pan and on magnet - not terrible for first service at 145k, but the vehicle (Silverado) will now serve as a farm truck and won’t see many miles going forward. Thanks again, spectacular production quality!
Right on.
Thanks for being here.
New filter & fluid resolved the issue 👍🏽
2005 Silverado, 4.3L, 2WD
Also, 1/2” threaded steel pipe works perfect to extract filter seal.
Right on! Congrats!
Oh, cool. I'll have to give that method a go. Thanks for sharing.