Thank you for being here! If it feels right to you, help me spread the word about this channel… 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder (60 sec): ruclips.net/video/ZQHtrVFUHdk/видео.html
The animation used to illustrate the fluid path and the valve movement is absolutely the best I have ever seen! From a semi retired GM tech who has nearly every GM book on the 4l60 and the 4l60E in my library.
I am a retired autobody tech with extensive experience in mechanical repair tho very limited to the modern transmission, you nailed it with the info put forth. I wish alone of the ICar classes and instructors would present the information in a manner such as you. Your way of instruction should be used by the automotive industry should be used. You present in a very precise manner. I have been an instructor in the past and can say without a doubt GREAT JOB
Wow, what a compliment!! I really appreciate you taking the time to write what you wrote. Much appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
The positive feedback is appreciated. Knowledge is power... Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. Here's an easy way to share... 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html 60-Second Preview of the video you just watched: ruclips.net/video/yfXdx6AkqjU/видео.html
Glad you enjoyed it! It's not too late to start... ;) Thanks for dropping me a line! PS If you're interested in spreading the word about this channel...here's an easy way to share with friends, family, FB Groups, automotive forums, etc. (Roughly 60-second video) 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: ruclips.net/video/Mvv5Cd2cVW4/видео.html
You're welcome. Thank you for taking the time to drop me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. Here's an easy way to share... 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview) ruclips.net/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/видео.html
Being a mechanic for over 15 years and I'm finally getting into the automatic transmission rebuild process. Your videos are like none I've seen on RUclips really helping me understand how this transmission works
@@SouthpawAutoworks yes 4l60e is mine. I decided it's best to practice on my own transmission first before messing with anyone else's. Mine was shifting really good and firm for the first 300 miles after rebuild. Then got a p1870 code. So that's what I'm dealing with now
Having the ability to practice in private, before a public performance, is always nice. It reduces the pressure... Did you have that code prior to rebuild? During the rebuild, did you install any kind of valve-body kit?
@@SouthpawAutoworks yes I did full rebuild. New pistons, zpak 3-4 new load springs new bushings all around, wide bushings where applicable, wide band. 5 pinion planets (both) trans go shift kit. Boost valve .500 reason for rebuild lost all gears including reverse. No p1870 prior
Right on. ****Regarding P1870 code**** If you don't already know...that code is typically associated with the Torque Converter Clutch slipping excessively. Some 4L60E models apply the clutch all the way...resulting in no slip. Some 4L60E models apply the clutch, but only partially....resulting in limited slip. They did this to help minimize vibrations, etc. Either way, the PCM monitors the amount slip. If it detects too much slip, it'll throw that code. Regarding TransGo kit: Page 4, covers the Isolator & Converter Regulator Valve. What was the OD of your original valve? 0.441"?? 0.472"??
I thoroughly enjoy watching and learning from you. You are a great teacher and have dinner a great job with your videos. You explain everything so brilliantly. I want to thank you personally for all of your hard work and time that you have poured into these videos. God Bless your soul. I have learned so very much from you and now I know that I am armed with great knowledge that I can use throughout the rest of this journey we call life and I will make sure that I pass this knowledge on to others as you have done so wonderfully. I can't say thanks enough!! 🙂
Thanks for checking it out! I'm glad you're here... I'm excited to get more people involved with automatic transmissions. Thanks for dropping me a line!
What an absolutely awesome video. Thank you! I came here to watch this because of a 4t65e transmission and how it is always suggested to replace the AFL valve with an updated sonax/superior part. I now completely understand what this valve actually does and why this part wears out from moving so much and why it is recommended to ALWAYS replace it when inside the transmission. I assume it works the same way in the GM 4t65E (hopefully). Thanks again for the time and effort put into these videos!
It will work the same way (4L60E vs 4T65E). Glad you enjoyed the video, and got value out of it. Always nice to watch something, and it be worth your time....not always the case on RUclips. Thank you for taking the time to drop me a line, Joe. The positive feedback is appreciated.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for dropping me a line! Much appreciated. PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview) ruclips.net/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/видео.html
I just love so much how you explain and illustrate. The info you give is gold. Besides the stock application, after you explain everything for some part, i would like to hear about mods that people do and how it changes stuff. For example : Stiffer springs in boost valve, Adding 1 more spring in the AFL valve
Glad you enjoyed it! I plan on creating follow-up videos that cover common problems, and solutions for each of those problems. I'd be happy to also cover mods and how it affects the system. Thanks for dropping me a line! PS If you're interested in spreading the word about this channel...here's an easy way to share. Roughly 60-second video... 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: ruclips.net/video/Mvv5Cd2cVW4/видео.html
Very nice and informative video. It takes lot of effort and creativity to create such kind of detailed and easy understanding content to explain in such small length video. Keep doing this good work. Thank you !
I think it's smart how you break up the video from time to time and have a little pauses. This helps my mind to recollect, it's thoughts & take a mini break.
Your videos are great Robert. I've just rebuilt my first 4L60e. I've only run it at idle and the line pressure gauge fluctuates rapidly around 75psi (it has the modified boost valve). I don't know if this is normal, or possibly related to the way the camshaft makes the engine idle lope. Once I fix an ignition issue I'll test the line pressure at higher rpm, but I now at least have a better understanding of how the pressures are controlled and what may be wrong (if anything). Thank you so much for your efforts!
With stock parts installed, the base idle should be right around 55 - 65 psi. However, aftermarket parts (stiffer PR spring) will elevate the base idle some. Thanks for dropping me a line!
@@SouthpawAutoworks thanks Robert. I am more concerned about the manner in which the pressure gauge rapidly flickers at idle, but hope it will smooth out with more rpm. I expected the pressure to be elevated due to the aftermarket parts.
Shoot, I meant to address that part of your original comment. Sorry about that. A rapid/excessive flicker of the pressure gauge needle, at idle, can indicate that there's a problem with the PR Valve. In the case of the 4L60E, typically not an issue with the valve itself. However, you could be dealing with a worn out PR Valve bore (in the pump casting). There are some other checks to make with the pressure gauge. More on that, later.
Very interesting and great delivery. Ive seen two so far and subbed, I use a Trans go jr. kits would be nice to know what TG is trying to achieve with each mod and change on a 60e
Great and knowledgeable videos, I watched almost all regarding 4L-60E. Question: if I want to make my vehicle start moving "happier" with brake pedal depress at Drive and no throttle (moving in traffic) - am I need to increase boost pressure in order to increase pressure inside TCC?
@@SouthpawAutoworks when you stay at drive with brake on, and then you remove your leg from brake pedal, car starts moving. If I want car to move faster in such conditions, I need to increase momentum at TCC, right? To do this, am I need to increase boost pressure?
Thank you for clarifying. Yes, you would need to increase the momentum of the TC (Torque Converter). Just aheads up, the TCC is the Torque Converter Clutch. It's a clutch that lives inside of the TC. Some things that will have an effect on what you described are; 1). Engine idle speed. (this will increase momentum of the Torque Converter). 2). Torque converter design (stall speed)(angle of the fins that are used on the impeller/turbine). To the best of my knowledge, increasing the Line Pressure (via the boost pressure, or any other means) will not have have an effect on what you have described. Increasing Line Pressure will affect; 1). Clamping force applied to clutches and band. 2). Shift feel (soft, firm, harsh).
Robert Thank you for this excellent series of videos I have a 2001 GMC 4.8L last year when I turned from1 road to another (almost to a stop 90degree turn) and give it gas the trans seams like it goes to neutral I put a shift solenoid kit/filter & oil in and helped for a while I'm 67 years old and just learned to live with it, Now running on hwy it started fluttering and goes complete neutral and engine revs up a second or two then locks back in,, It seams okay when I start down the road (take off) and in reverse,, Any help would be appreciated, : Glenn
Hello, great information that you give in your videos, I have a question to ask about a 4l60e transmission, the transmission in question was rebuilt with all its new kit, corvette servo and sonax accumulators without pin, the problem is that it kicks when shifting 1-2 the rest of the transmission works perfectly, do you have any suggestions about the problem, what could be causing it? Thanks in advance.
I need advice, I rebuilt my 96 S10 4L60E all the forward gears work great. I hooked a pressure gauge up and have about 70lbs pressure in park idling up to 175lbs in drive while driving. put it in reverse no reverse about 70lbs with very slight drop. What did I do wrong?
I Have a Toyota Corolla that when you pull the shifter down into the low position the OBD tells me I am in 4th gear. I step on the gas and it is in first. Is this controlled by the 1-2 shift valve? It does have the code for silonoid p0741
Thank you for a great video and all the time you spend making them .I was wondering why it is important to have a lower than line pressure feed going to the solenoids . Is it because the electric solenoids cannot operate under the higher line pressure ? or because the lower AFL pressure is needed downstream of the solenoids ?
Good question. I would imagine that the engineers did this (using lower pressures) as a way to conserve Line Pressure. If everything consumed line pressure, it would be harder to keep line pressure stable. Thinking it would fluctuate wildly. You can learn more about how the shift solenoids, and the shift valves, work by checking out these videos: 4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation): ruclips.net/video/FaChWmcsAgI/видео.html 4L60E: 1-2 Shift Valve + Shift Solenoid (Part 1) Basic Operation: ruclips.net/video/jPhm76RDz6Y/видео.html Thanks for dropping me a line.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thank you for your quick response to my question . Your answer on conserving the higher line pressure sounds very logical to me . Now I'm thinking that the higher line pressure needs to be maintained so the clutches and shifting process work properly . Therefor I would believe your answer is correct. Thank you. I most definetly will be watching your other videos on automatic transmissions . Your videos are so nelpful and easy to understand in the way you present them .
Hi, I’m in Nc. I’d like to say thank you for your insight on facts. I’m working on a 2004 GMC envoy 2/wd 4.2 . I have no obd codes for transmission, but it slipping at 2nd to 3rd. And to get it to 3rd I’ll have it press the gas; and it still doesn’t feel good. Please please help me with this project. I’ve just put another transmission in the truck and really don’t wanna have to take it off. Also I’ve changed solenoids A/B. 4L60 E transmission
You're welcome. Questions: 1). With the shifter in D, when the trans tries to automatically up-shift from 2nd to 3rd, what exactly happens? 2). Does the problem occur when the engine trans are cold? Hot? Happens at all temps? 3). Believe it, or not, engine problems can/will cause transmission problems. Do you have any engine codes? Any other kinds of codes present? 4). What can you share about the currently-installed 4L60E? Rebuilt? Junkyard unit? As time permits, I'd be happy to try to get you pointed in the right direction. PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. Here's some easy ways to share with your favorite FB group, Reddit group, online forum, etc. Thank you. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview) ruclips.net/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/видео.html
My first gear is not engaging. I replaced the 1st gear shift solinoid and nothing. I get solinoid circuit as trouble code, for all my solinoids. Also my ignition key won't come out of the ignition, not sure if that's relevant issue. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the support. Thanks for dropping me a line! PS If you're interested in spreading the word about this channel...here's an easy way to share (Friends, family, FB Group, etc) (Roughly 60-second video) 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: ruclips.net/video/Mvv5Cd2cVW4/видео.html
I am an old school mechanic and a retired auto body technician. I have rebuilt numerous transmissions in the past. I have attempted to rebuild my 4l60e in my trailblazer, may have been a mistake, acts as the pressure is to high. Keeps blowing cooling line off transmission. 5he4efore I am learning about the pressure flow. HELP if you can
Right on! (Regarding your experience with automatics and auto body repair) If the Line Pressure is in question, it would be a good idea to attach an automatic transmission pressure gauge (300+ psi) to the trans (pressure port located above the shift shaft lever, on trans). It should read right around 55 - 65 psi with the trans in Park, and the engine idling. However, I don't think Line Pressure is the issue... Automatic Transmission Pressure Gauge: amzn.to/3NWZGiX (Paid Link) These transmissions (and select GM vehicles) are known for blowing the cooler lines off of the trans (or the radiator). The 4L60E rebuild kit comes with two (2) blue colored E-clips. They're cooler line retaining clips. It's super important to replace those clips, with every rebuild. Furthermore, select GM vehicles have the cooler lines routed in a way that allows the cooler lines to move around too much. The excess movement causes the blue E-clips to wear out, and break apart......even brand new clips have been known to wear out prematurely. You might need to provide additional mounting points for the cooler lines, to prevent them from "jumping" around, during normal driving conditions. Hope this helps... DISCLOSURE: 🕵 Links provided are affiliated links with the associated websites. While there is no extra cost to the purchaser, a small portion of the sale goes to support this youtube channel. Thanks for your support!
I'm doing a stand alone 4l60, and I don't want the shifts to be super hard, how can I control that with out the TCM? Could I use a rheostat switch? Thanks!
You mentioned "4L60"...which is another name for the 700R4/TH700R4. Yet, you are mentioning a TCM. I'm going to assume you mean the 4L60E. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Are you wanting every up-shift/down-shift to occur automatically? Or are you wanting to manually shift it for ever up-shift/down-shift? I'm not familiar with using a rheostat for a transmission. Are you thinking about using that to control the EPC Solenoid?
Understood. Yes, I imagine that it's possible to control the electrical amperage supplied to the EPC Solenoid (Rheostat, etc). 0 amps: Max line pressure. 1 amp: Minimum line pressure. It's important to note, under normal operating conditions, the PCM varies the amperage. It varies depending on throttle position (TPS), among other sensors. The Line Pressure (via the EPC Solenoid/PCM) changes as the vehicle driving conditions change. I guess you could turn the Line Pressure all the way up, at all times. But, know that it's hard on the pump (probably reduce the life of it), it's hard on the rest of the driveline (shock), it'll make for one really hard 1-2 shift, etc. Wishing you the best on your stand alone 4L60E.
I have a question, I rebuild 4L60e'S all the time but i run into an issue with the 2009 4L60e's No matter what i do i get a 1-2 shudder. Never in any other year just the 09's Is that something common or is it just my nemmines ?? I do need help as i am lost on this one.
I have a 4L60e that slowly starts to overheat after 60-90 minutes of run time then starts to shift hard. It does have an external cooler. Any thoughts?
Under normal operating circumstances, the torque converter creates a lot of heat. The cooler is responsible for managing that heat. Plus, the TCC (Torque Converter Clutch), is also responsible for managing that heat, and of course performing other tasks, too. Do you have a check engine light on the dash/instrument cluster? Do you have a code reader, to retrieve codes? Inexpensive code reader tool: amzn.to/33uwVrj (Paid Link) DISCLOSURE: 🕵 As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Some, if not all, of the links contained in this video description are affiliate links. This means that, at no additional cost to you, I will receive a small commission on any purchases you make through the website links provided above.
@@SouthpawAutoworks no check engine light on. I can check to see if it has any stored codes. The transmission was rebuilt a couple years ago. I'm going to change the filter/fluid and check to make sure the cooler lines aren't kinked. An external cooler replaced the radiator cooler when the transmission was rebuilt. Should I change the TCC solenoid when I change the filter?
I have read your other comments, posted on the other two (2) videos. Have not had time to respond to those... I'm having trouble understanding your question, on this comment/video. 1). With the trans in OD mode, your foot on the brake, and the engine idling, what is the Line Pressure reading? A). If you take your foot off of the brake and accelerate the vehicle (part-throttle), does the Line Pressure increase? How much pressure does it build?
@@SouthpawAutoworks thank you for your reply On OD the max pressure 60 psi I have with my foot on break and second on throttle with 2500 RPm 2 also maximu 60 i dont have more than 60 psi Juston R reverse the max 90 psi
The Line Pressure should be roughly 55 psi with no load placed on the 4L60E (engine idling). But, as engine load increases (more throttle), Line Pressure should increase, too. This ensures that the clutches don't start slipping, and burn up (fail). Line Pressure is affected by: 1). PR (Pressure Regulator Valve) (Sets base line pressure [roughly 55 psi]). 2). The Boost Valve (raises line pressure above base pressure). 3). EPC Solenoid (this supplies oil pressure to the Boost Valve). 4). PCM (computer). (Controls the EPC Solenoid output pressure). 5). Engine load sensors (they "sense" engine load). If there's a problem with the engine, or one of the engine sensors, it can cause (or mimic) 4L60E problems. Questions: 1). Is the engine running good? 2). Do you have a check engine light on? Have you pulled codes? 3). Was the transmission recently worked on, or rebuilt? A). If recently rebuilt, did you do the rebuild, or did you hire a professional?
@@SouthpawAutoworks thank again and again My car hummer h3 2006 L5 3500 swaped to engine 6.0 gen3 tuning with MAF deleted with my h3 transmission 4l60e We change the bell housing and pump and torque converter and shuft and dram after that i drive the car for 2 months verry whell but i have a little slow shifting between 1n 2 n 2 n3 So we disasemble and change all the clutches and we change also the valve body steel plate When we make the test drive i find i have no power in the gears and start to slip on 2000 rpm n2 n4 gears after n3 gear 1 n R work good with no slip I use to test the line pressure i have no pressure max 60 psi
If the pump is gonna get machined, then there are three (3) surfaces that need to get addressed. Great question. The pump cover is the half of the pump that houses the valve-trains. The pump body houses the pump rotor, vanes, etc. It's a common mistake to machine the two large surfaces on the pump cover and the pump body, and nothing else (only 2 surfaces). However, it's important that the pocket (where the pump rotor, etc lives) inside the pump body gets machined, too. If it doesn't, it can result in inadequate clearance for the pump slide (which needs to be able to pivot back and forth, during normal operation). Hope this makes sense.
this is fucking great. channels going to be huge man. Also, I have an '08 silverado, would those sonnax boost valve and pressure regulator vale work with that pump (I know there are a bunch of different models)? Also I have the turbine speed control sensor in the way of the boost valve, any way around that or does the pump have to be removed?
The speed sensor wiring harness is, unfortunately, in the way of the PR Valve valve-train (includes the Boost Valve/Sleeve) on later-model 4L60E units. In order to gain access to the PR valve-train, the trans has to be removed from the vehicle, and the pump has to be pulled out of the transmission. There are different lengths of Boost Valve/Sleeve, depending on year of 4L60E. Also, the PR Valves come in different sizes. There's the "regular" thickness (aka OEM), and there's an oversized thickness. If you suspect the PR Valve bore is worn out, you could either: 1). Use an aftermarket oversized PR Valve. Note: This requires oversizing the bore, and tools are required to do this. 2). Use an aftermarket valve that utilizes longer valve lands in order to use unworn parts of the bore, to essentially restore the health of the PR valve train. Just to be clear, it's not an oversized valve...just a modified valve...that requires no extra tools to get the job done. Your encouraging words are appreciated. PS If you're interested in spreading the word about this channel...here's an easy way to share with friends, family, FB groups, automotive forums, etc. (Roughly 60-second video) 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: ruclips.net/video/Mvv5Cd2cVW4/видео.html Thanks for dropping me a line!
@@SouthpawAutoworks Will do, and thanks for the reply. I was thinking the transgo lengthened pressure valve and new boost valve. I suppose I could get a new pump cover all together, and just use gm parts too. Also did the line pressure test, when I'm having a problem at idle (have to tap the gas slightly to engage 1st gear, otherwise its in a half neutral state), or shifting into drive (the problem only happens when the trans is warmed up past about 150f or so), pressure is about 46psi. After that tap of the gas pedal, it jumps to about 65 n goes like normal. When I'm not having that issue, pressure is about 65 or so at idle. Every other gear works just fine as you drive. R has no issue, neither really does starting in 2, but then again it's low torque so the delayed engagement could be there a bit, but not really noticeable. Judging by that, you thinking pr n boost valve is likely?
Very carefully... ;) Thanks for dropping me a line! Here's the latest video! It went live, minutes ago... 4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation) (60-Sec Preview) ruclips.net/video/JXFjMlsqirs/видео.html
Has me thinking these possibilities: 1) Worn out Pressure Regulator valve/bore. 2). Pump slide stuck. IDK the history of your trans (high mileage, recently rebuilt, etc), and I'm unable to road test, or scan your vehicle. So, I'm shooting in the dark...
That code is aimed at the EPC Solenoid (Electronic Pressure Control). It has a direct impact on the line pressure...however, it's not the only thing that can affect line pressure. You can learn more about the EPC Solenoid, by watching this video... ruclips.net/video/PY1trZeLqTM/видео.html WARNING: Do what I do at your own risk. If it were my 4L60E, I'd be taking a closer look at the EPC Solenoid. I'd monitor the EPC Solenoid with a scan tool, to see what the PCM is commanding (duty cycle), and also verify actual amperage passing through the solenoid. However, if I didn't have a scan tool (or if everything previously checked out on the scan tool), I'd gain direct access to the solenoid (drain oil, remove oil pan) and get my electrical meter probes right on the solenoid electrical terminals, and check the resistance. It should be right around 3.5 - 8 ohms.
TCC stands for Torque Converter Clutch. There are two (2) different solenoids associated with the TCC. 1). TCC PWM Solenoid (located in/on the VB [valve-body]). 2). TCC Solenoid (integral part of the wiring harness, that's mounted into the bottom of the pump)(On/Off solenoid). The solenoid mounted on the VB is fed AFL fluid pressure. However, the solenoid mounted on the pump, does not. Instead, it's fed Converter Feed oil pressure. It's essentially line pressure. Hope this makes sense, and helps.
Great video, but I’m an old trans tech that sits down for hours and looks at oil passage diagrams for automatic transmissions. Kinda like my automatic transmission porn
Hrh hos are you youf awesome on knowledge of 4l60e i got a 4l60d 4x4 2004 tahoe fullh rebuilt n made it 2 blocks n no gearz tranny wont do nothing no reverse or forwards gears znc ideas
I'm having some difficulty reading your comment...but, here goes. Questions: 1). With the engine off, check the trans fluid level. Start the engine, and check fluid level again. Did the fluid level drop? 2). What is the Line Pressure reading with the trans in Park, and the engine idling? Note: Use an automatic transmission pressure gauge (rated over 300 psi). 3). Did you happen to punch it (the throttle) right before you lost all gears? Automatic Transmission Pressure Gauge: amzn.to/3NWZGiX (Paid Link) DISCLOSURE: 🕵 Links provided are affiliated links with the associated websites. While there is no extra cost to the purchaser, a small portion of the sale goes to support this youtube channel. Thanks for your support!
@@SouthpawAutoworks j dudnf jack stand test 1st befor i tryed dri b ingnitnkm not goin lie to hou and yes sir i did punch it beforbi lost gesrx however sir i never had reverse at all andbghen ig started actin likebit was ckming around but forward was string but wojldng switch gears at likd never lock up and wouldvdlip and fluix sur was with a transt as r rebuild kit new torque convert we r piston all new clutchs all steels bew or c I eaned i mean all new bushings pump rebuilt all new papers andvseals a casebof new transtar fluid j mean all new barrings etc im a mechanic my friend helped me hse to rebuild don garlitts drag racing motorsvand transmissions for him hes got his shop here in houston anc thatsvwere i work also fullybredtoring cars ground up
Thank you for being here!
If it feels right to you, help me spread the word about this channel…
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder (60 sec): ruclips.net/video/ZQHtrVFUHdk/видео.html
You are the best transmission guy on RUclips. Thanks
What a compliment! Positive feedback is always appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
The animation used to illustrate the fluid path and the valve movement is absolutely the best I have ever seen! From a semi retired GM tech who has nearly every GM book on the 4l60 and the 4l60E in my library.
Right on! The feedback is appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
very educative thank you regards
I am a retired autobody tech with extensive experience in mechanical repair tho very limited to the modern transmission, you nailed it with the info put forth. I wish alone of the ICar classes and instructors would present the information in a manner such as you. Your way of instruction should be used by the automotive industry should be used. You present in a very precise manner. I have been an instructor in the past and can say without a doubt GREAT JOB
Wow, what a compliment!! I really appreciate you taking the time to write what you wrote. Much appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
Really appreciate your videos. There is plenty of how to videos on the 4l60e’s but they rarely explain why. Thanx!
The positive feedback is appreciated. Knowledge is power...
Thanks for dropping me a line!
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
Here's an easy way to share...
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
60-Second Preview of the video you just watched:
ruclips.net/video/yfXdx6AkqjU/видео.html
Thank you so much....
I don't build transmissions, but you make it so interesting.....
Glad you enjoyed it!
It's not too late to start... ;)
Thanks for dropping me a line!
PS
If you're interested in spreading the word about this channel...here's an easy way to share with friends, family, FB Groups, automotive forums, etc.
(Roughly 60-second video)
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: ruclips.net/video/Mvv5Cd2cVW4/видео.html
Amazing job, doing my last year of school as an auto tech and this helped huge! thank you!
Right on!! That's exciting!
Thank you for dropping me a line.
That circuit is always worn out , valve and bore . Burns up alot of clutches … Great video , learned a lot man !
Right on!
Appreciate your comment.
Thank you for this information very informative looking forward to watching some other videos
You're welcome.
Thank you for taking the time to drop me a line!
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
Here's an easy way to share...
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview)
ruclips.net/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/видео.html
Excelent information, so far the best transmision tutorial in RUclips channel. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
The positive feedback is appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Thank you the time you spend to create educational videos for everyone
My pleasure.
Being a mechanic for over 15 years and I'm finally getting into the automatic transmission rebuild process. Your videos are like none I've seen on RUclips really helping me understand how this transmission works
Right on! That's awesome! Is the 4L60E your first auto trans?
The positive feedback is appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
@@SouthpawAutoworks yes 4l60e is mine. I decided it's best to practice on my own transmission first before messing with anyone else's. Mine was shifting really good and firm for the first 300 miles after rebuild. Then got a p1870 code. So that's what I'm dealing with now
Having the ability to practice in private, before a public performance, is always nice. It reduces the pressure...
Did you have that code prior to rebuild?
During the rebuild, did you install any kind of valve-body kit?
@@SouthpawAutoworks yes I did full rebuild. New pistons, zpak 3-4 new load springs new bushings all around, wide bushings where applicable, wide band. 5 pinion planets (both) trans go shift kit. Boost valve .500 reason for rebuild lost all gears including reverse. No p1870 prior
Right on.
****Regarding P1870 code****
If you don't already know...that code is typically associated with the Torque Converter Clutch slipping excessively.
Some 4L60E models apply the clutch all the way...resulting in no slip.
Some 4L60E models apply the clutch, but only partially....resulting in limited slip. They did this to help minimize vibrations, etc.
Either way, the PCM monitors the amount slip. If it detects too much slip, it'll throw that code.
Regarding TransGo kit:
Page 4, covers the Isolator & Converter Regulator Valve.
What was the OD of your original valve? 0.441"?? 0.472"??
Stuff like this just makes my day. Thanks
Your comment makes my day.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Great information. troubleshooting my 4t65E and had no grasp of the terms I was being told. this explains SO much.... Thanks!
Great to hear!
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Great video, the animations are fantastic for explaining the flow.
Glad to hear that!
Thanks for dropping me a line!
I thoroughly enjoy watching and learning from you. You are a great teacher and have dinner a great job with your videos. You explain everything so brilliantly. I want to thank you personally for all of your hard work and time that you have poured into these videos. God Bless your soul. I have learned so very much from you and now I know that I am armed with great knowledge that I can use throughout the rest of this journey we call life and I will make sure that I pass this knowledge on to others as you have done so wonderfully. I can't say thanks enough!! 🙂
So glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for dropping a line.
Superb explanation. Excited for your channel to snowball with views; in anticipation of your following videos!
Thanks for checking it out! I'm glad you're here...
I'm excited to get more people involved with automatic transmissions.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
cant wait for part 2
Right on.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
What an absolutely awesome video. Thank you! I came here to watch this because of a 4t65e transmission and how it is always suggested to replace the AFL valve with an updated sonax/superior part. I now completely understand what this valve actually does and why this part wears out from moving so much and why it is recommended to ALWAYS replace it when inside the transmission. I assume it works the same way in the GM 4t65E (hopefully). Thanks again for the time and effort put into these videos!
It will work the same way (4L60E vs 4T65E).
Glad you enjoyed the video, and got value out of it. Always nice to watch something, and it be worth your time....not always the case on RUclips.
Thank you for taking the time to drop me a line, Joe.
The positive feedback is appreciated.
These videos are so amazing, Thank you for taking the time to create there. There's nothing as good as these on RUclips. Cheers fella.
Glad you like them!
I really enjoyed making this video. More to come!
Hey man, amazing video! Congrats on starting a channel that will only grow!
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for dropping me a line! Much appreciated.
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview)
ruclips.net/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/видео.html
Wow! Super informative video! That’s a ton of work you’ve done to explain that. Gunna check out the video you recommended at the end. 👍
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you so much for what you are dedicating
Thank you so much for this video, it taught me a lot today
Right on!!
I just love so much how you explain and illustrate. The info you give is gold.
Besides the stock application, after you explain everything for some part, i would like to hear about mods that people do and how it changes stuff. For example : Stiffer springs in boost valve, Adding 1 more spring in the AFL valve
Glad you enjoyed it!
I plan on creating follow-up videos that cover common problems, and solutions for each of those problems. I'd be happy to also cover mods and how it affects the system.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
PS
If you're interested in spreading the word about this channel...here's an easy way to share.
Roughly 60-second video...
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: ruclips.net/video/Mvv5Cd2cVW4/видео.html
Very nice and informative video. It takes lot of effort and creativity to create such kind of detailed and easy understanding content to explain in such small length video. Keep doing this good work. Thank you !
Really appreciate your comment.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Looking great as usual!
Thanks, man! Really appreciate you stopping by.
Thanks You from Venezuela 🇻🇪
Right on.
You're welcome.
I admire your dedication! Lots of work to edit videos. I’ll be checking out the others too.
Right on.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Robert.... we like the video! You’re amazing... talented! So let’s see some of your amazing guitar work next.
Dana!!! I was just thinking about you and Gary, earlier this week. And boom....here you are. Crazy how that works. =)
I'm gonna DM you!
Hi , There is no one to explains like You . ( 👍 * 1000 ) with the best regards
Wow, thank you!
Thanks so mutch brothers i appreciate your work
I did hydraulic circuit identification and mapping back in 1988 starting with ZF4hp-22
Nice computer automation
Right on!
Thanks.
stunning - AFL valve vid. thanks
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
You are amazing 👏 thank you for all your content
It's a labor of love.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
I think it's smart how you break up the video from time to time and have a little pauses. This helps my mind to recollect, it's thoughts & take a mini break.
Right on! Glad to hear that!
I'll keep this in mind for future videos.
Appreciate your input.
Your videos are great Robert. I've just rebuilt my first 4L60e. I've only run it at idle and the line pressure gauge fluctuates rapidly around 75psi (it has the modified boost valve). I don't know if this is normal, or possibly related to the way the camshaft makes the engine idle lope. Once I fix an ignition issue I'll test the line pressure at higher rpm, but I now at least have a better understanding of how the pressures are controlled and what may be wrong (if anything). Thank you so much for your efforts!
With stock parts installed, the base idle should be right around 55 - 65 psi. However, aftermarket parts (stiffer PR spring) will elevate the base idle some.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
@@SouthpawAutoworks thanks Robert. I am more concerned about the manner in which the pressure gauge rapidly flickers at idle, but hope it will smooth out with more rpm. I expected the pressure to be elevated due to the aftermarket parts.
Shoot, I meant to address that part of your original comment. Sorry about that.
A rapid/excessive flicker of the pressure gauge needle, at idle, can indicate that there's a problem with the PR Valve. In the case of the 4L60E, typically not an issue with the valve itself. However, you could be dealing with a worn out PR Valve bore (in the pump casting).
There are some other checks to make with the pressure gauge.
More on that, later.
Very interesting and great delivery. Ive seen two so far and subbed, I use a Trans go jr. kits would be nice to know what TG is trying to achieve with each mod and change on a 60e
Great and knowledgeable videos, I watched almost all regarding 4L-60E. Question: if I want to make my vehicle start moving "happier" with brake pedal depress at Drive and no throttle (moving in traffic) - am I need to increase boost pressure in order to increase pressure inside TCC?
Thanks for the positive feedback.
I'd like to answer your question, however, I'm having trouble understanding.
Can you rephrase the question?
@@SouthpawAutoworks when you stay at drive with brake on, and then you remove your leg from brake pedal, car starts moving. If I want car to move faster in such conditions, I need to increase momentum at TCC, right? To do this, am I need to increase boost pressure?
Thank you for clarifying.
Yes, you would need to increase the momentum of the TC (Torque Converter). Just aheads up, the TCC is the Torque Converter Clutch. It's a clutch that lives inside of the TC.
Some things that will have an effect on what you described are;
1). Engine idle speed. (this will increase momentum of the Torque Converter).
2). Torque converter design (stall speed)(angle of the fins that are used on the impeller/turbine).
To the best of my knowledge, increasing the Line Pressure (via the boost pressure, or any other means) will not have have an effect on what you have described.
Increasing Line Pressure will affect;
1). Clamping force applied to clutches and band.
2). Shift feel (soft, firm, harsh).
Robert Thank you for this excellent series of videos I have a 2001 GMC 4.8L last year when I turned from1 road to another (almost to a stop 90degree turn) and give it gas the trans seams like it goes to neutral I put a shift solenoid kit/filter & oil in and helped for a while I'm 67 years old and just learned to live with it, Now running on hwy it started fluttering and goes complete neutral and engine revs up a second or two then locks back in,, It seams okay when I start down the road (take off) and in reverse,, Any help would be appreciated, : Glenn
It has me thinking fluid level?
Do you know how to check the fluid level?
Excellence! Thanks again.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Hello, great information that you give in your videos, I have a question to ask about a 4l60e transmission, the transmission in question was rebuilt with all its new kit, corvette servo and sonax accumulators without pin, the problem is that it kicks when shifting 1-2 the rest of the transmission works perfectly, do you have any suggestions about the problem, what could be causing it? Thanks in advance.
Great job
Much appreciated.
I need advice, I rebuilt my 96 S10 4L60E all the forward gears work great. I hooked a pressure gauge up and have about 70lbs pressure in park idling up to 175lbs in drive while driving. put it in reverse no reverse about 70lbs with very slight drop. What did I do wrong?
Hello Sir what happens when those (seal like) lines on the dividing plate are broken, like scratched off?
Thank you so much
You're most welcome.
I Have a Toyota Corolla that when you pull the shifter down into the low position the OBD tells me I am in 4th gear. I step on the gas and it is in first. Is this controlled by the 1-2 shift valve? It does have the code for silonoid p0741
Thank you for a great video and all the time you spend making them .I was wondering why it is important to have a lower than line pressure feed going to the solenoids . Is it because the electric solenoids cannot operate under the higher line pressure ? or because the lower AFL pressure is needed downstream of the solenoids ?
Good question.
I would imagine that the engineers did this (using lower pressures) as a way to conserve Line Pressure. If everything consumed line pressure, it would be harder to keep line pressure stable. Thinking it would fluctuate wildly.
You can learn more about how the shift solenoids, and the shift valves, work by checking out these videos:
4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation): ruclips.net/video/FaChWmcsAgI/видео.html
4L60E: 1-2 Shift Valve + Shift Solenoid (Part 1) Basic Operation: ruclips.net/video/jPhm76RDz6Y/видео.html
Thanks for dropping me a line.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thank you for your quick response to my question . Your answer on conserving the higher line pressure sounds very logical to me . Now I'm thinking that the higher line pressure needs to be maintained so the clutches and shifting process work properly . Therefor I would believe your answer is correct. Thank you. I most definetly will be watching your other videos on automatic transmissions . Your videos are so nelpful and easy to understand in the way you present them .
Glad they're helpful.
Hi, I’m in Nc. I’d like to say thank you for your insight on facts. I’m working on a 2004 GMC envoy 2/wd 4.2 . I have no obd codes for transmission, but it slipping at 2nd to 3rd. And to get it to 3rd I’ll have it press the gas; and it still doesn’t feel good. Please please help me with this project. I’ve just put another transmission in the truck and really don’t wanna have to take it off. Also I’ve changed solenoids A/B. 4L60 E transmission
You're welcome.
Questions:
1). With the shifter in D, when the trans tries to automatically up-shift from 2nd to 3rd, what exactly happens?
2). Does the problem occur when the engine trans are cold? Hot? Happens at all temps?
3). Believe it, or not, engine problems can/will cause transmission problems.
Do you have any engine codes? Any other kinds of codes present?
4). What can you share about the currently-installed 4L60E? Rebuilt? Junkyard unit?
As time permits, I'd be happy to try to get you pointed in the right direction.
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. Here's some easy ways to share with your favorite FB group, Reddit group, online forum, etc. Thank you.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ruclips.net/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/видео.html
How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview)
ruclips.net/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/видео.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks yes cps / misfire #6. 1st&2nd smooth- 2nd to 3rd stinks. Help me please
My first gear is not engaging. I replaced the 1st gear shift solinoid and nothing. I get solinoid circuit as trouble code, for all my solinoids. Also my ignition key won't come out of the ignition, not sure if that's relevant issue. Any suggestions?
Bro keep the videos goin
Thanks for the support.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
PS
If you're interested in spreading the word about this channel...here's an easy way to share (Friends, family, FB Group, etc)
(Roughly 60-second video)
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: ruclips.net/video/Mvv5Cd2cVW4/видео.html
Good bless you
I need help with my 2014 Chevrolet equinox..it failed to engage in drive after the gear service
Great video. Really enjoyed it. I appreciate the time and thought you put into it. Solid knowledge brother. Well done and thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
The positive feedback is appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
What ..!!you are the Man
Glad you liked it.
Thanks for checking out the video, and for dropping me a line!
Hi if you help me am a poor machine from pakistan
When the gear jark(shaking) which valve is bad?
Thank You
You're welcome.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
I am an old school mechanic and a retired auto body technician. I have rebuilt numerous transmissions in the past. I have attempted to rebuild my 4l60e in my trailblazer, may have been a mistake, acts as the pressure is to high. Keeps blowing cooling line off transmission. 5he4efore I am learning about the pressure flow. HELP if you can
Right on! (Regarding your experience with automatics and auto body repair)
If the Line Pressure is in question, it would be a good idea to attach an automatic transmission pressure gauge (300+ psi) to the trans (pressure port located above the shift shaft lever, on trans). It should read right around 55 - 65 psi with the trans in Park, and the engine idling.
However, I don't think Line Pressure is the issue...
Automatic Transmission Pressure Gauge:
amzn.to/3NWZGiX (Paid Link)
These transmissions (and select GM vehicles) are known for blowing the cooler lines off of the trans (or the radiator). The 4L60E rebuild kit comes with two (2) blue colored E-clips. They're cooler line retaining clips. It's super important to replace those clips, with every rebuild.
Furthermore, select GM vehicles have the cooler lines routed in a way that allows the cooler lines to move around too much. The excess movement causes the blue E-clips to wear out, and break apart......even brand new clips have been known to wear out prematurely.
You might need to provide additional mounting points for the cooler lines, to prevent them from "jumping" around, during normal driving conditions.
Hope this helps...
DISCLOSURE: 🕵
Links provided are affiliated links with the associated websites. While there is no extra cost to the purchaser, a small portion of the sale goes to support this youtube channel. Thanks for your support!
I'm doing a stand alone 4l60, and I don't want the shifts to be super hard, how can I control that with out the TCM? Could I use a rheostat switch? Thanks!
You mentioned "4L60"...which is another name for the 700R4/TH700R4. Yet, you are mentioning a TCM. I'm going to assume you mean the 4L60E. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Are you wanting every up-shift/down-shift to occur automatically? Or are you wanting to manually shift it for ever up-shift/down-shift?
I'm not familiar with using a rheostat for a transmission.
Are you thinking about using that to control the EPC Solenoid?
@@SouthpawAutoworks yes 4l60e, manual shift, wanting a stand alone for 4l60e, just wonder if there is a way to control line pressure with something?
Understood.
Yes, I imagine that it's possible to control the electrical amperage supplied to the EPC Solenoid (Rheostat, etc).
0 amps: Max line pressure.
1 amp: Minimum line pressure.
It's important to note, under normal operating conditions, the PCM varies the amperage. It varies depending on throttle position (TPS), among other sensors. The Line Pressure (via the EPC Solenoid/PCM) changes as the vehicle driving conditions change.
I guess you could turn the Line Pressure all the way up, at all times. But, know that it's hard on the pump (probably reduce the life of it), it's hard on the rest of the driveline (shock), it'll make for one really hard 1-2 shift, etc.
Wishing you the best on your stand alone 4L60E.
Thanks!
You bet!
I have a question, I rebuild 4L60e'S all the time but i run into an issue with the 2009 4L60e's No matter what i do i get a 1-2 shudder. Never in any other year just the 09's Is that something common or is it just my nemmines ?? I do need help as i am lost on this one.
To the best of my knowledge, that's not common.
ты молодец хороший парень.
Thank you.
Thanks
You bet.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Really good explanation and great work doing the animations of the fluid path. What is the app you used to illustrate the oil path?
I can't be giving away all of my secrets. ;)
Thanks for dropping me a line!
🤣🤣🤣
I have a 4L60e that slowly starts to overheat after 60-90 minutes of run time then starts to shift hard. It does have an external cooler. Any thoughts?
Under normal operating circumstances, the torque converter creates a lot of heat. The cooler is responsible for managing that heat. Plus, the TCC (Torque Converter Clutch), is also responsible for managing that heat, and of course performing other tasks, too.
Do you have a check engine light on the dash/instrument cluster?
Do you have a code reader, to retrieve codes?
Inexpensive code reader tool: amzn.to/33uwVrj (Paid Link)
DISCLOSURE: 🕵
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Some, if not all, of the links contained in this video description are affiliate links. This means that, at no additional cost to you, I will receive a small commission on any purchases you make through the website links provided above.
@@SouthpawAutoworks no check engine light on. I can check to see if it has any stored codes. The transmission was rebuilt a couple years ago. I'm going to change the filter/fluid and check to make sure the cooler lines aren't kinked. An external cooler replaced the radiator cooler when the transmission was rebuilt. Should I change the TCC solenoid when I change the filter?
2nd view from rainy Columbia SC
Right on!
Thanks for tuning in...and dropping me a line!
I like all your videos
In my 4l60e gen3 my line pressure gauge 55 60 psi maximum just on Reverse give me 90psi
You think the boost valve ?
I have read your other comments, posted on the other two (2) videos. Have not had time to respond to those...
I'm having trouble understanding your question, on this comment/video.
1). With the trans in OD mode, your foot on the brake, and the engine idling, what is the Line Pressure reading?
A). If you take your foot off of the brake and accelerate the vehicle (part-throttle), does the Line Pressure increase? How much pressure does it build?
@@SouthpawAutoworks thank you for your reply
On OD the max pressure 60 psi I have with my foot on break and second on throttle with 2500 RPm
2 also maximu 60 i dont have more than 60 psi
Juston R reverse the max 90 psi
The Line Pressure should be roughly 55 psi with no load placed on the 4L60E (engine idling).
But, as engine load increases (more throttle), Line Pressure should increase, too. This ensures that the clutches don't start slipping, and burn up (fail).
Line Pressure is affected by:
1). PR (Pressure Regulator Valve) (Sets base line pressure [roughly 55 psi]).
2). The Boost Valve (raises line pressure above base pressure).
3). EPC Solenoid (this supplies oil pressure to the Boost Valve).
4). PCM (computer). (Controls the EPC Solenoid output pressure).
5). Engine load sensors (they "sense" engine load). If there's a problem with the engine, or one of the engine sensors, it can cause (or mimic) 4L60E problems.
Questions:
1). Is the engine running good?
2). Do you have a check engine light on? Have you pulled codes?
3). Was the transmission recently worked on, or rebuilt?
A). If recently rebuilt, did you do the rebuild, or did you hire a professional?
@@SouthpawAutoworks thank again and again
My car hummer h3 2006 L5 3500 swaped to engine 6.0 gen3 tuning with MAF deleted with my h3 transmission 4l60e
We change the bell housing and pump and torque converter and shuft and dram after that i drive the car for 2 months verry whell but i have a little slow shifting between 1n 2 n 2 n3
So we disasemble and change all the clutches and we change also the valve body steel plate
When we make the test drive i find i have no power in the gears and start to slip on 2000 rpm n2 n4 gears after n3 gear 1 n R work good with no slip
I use to test the line pressure i have no pressure max 60 psi
i hope to prepare dsg gearbox
Very Very Very good!
Like 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲
Can a4l60 pump be surfaced on both sides
If the pump is gonna get machined, then there are three (3) surfaces that need to get addressed.
Great question.
The pump cover is the half of the pump that houses the valve-trains. The pump body houses the pump rotor, vanes, etc. It's a common mistake to machine the two large surfaces on the pump cover and the pump body, and nothing else (only 2 surfaces). However, it's important that the pocket (where the pump rotor, etc lives) inside the pump body gets machined, too. If it doesn't, it can result in inadequate clearance for the pump slide (which needs to be able to pivot back and forth, during normal operation).
Hope this makes sense.
this is fucking great. channels going to be huge man. Also, I have an '08 silverado, would those sonnax boost valve and pressure regulator vale work with that pump (I know there are a bunch of different models)? Also I have the turbine speed control sensor in the way of the boost valve, any way around that or does the pump have to be removed?
The speed sensor wiring harness is, unfortunately, in the way of the PR Valve valve-train (includes the Boost Valve/Sleeve) on later-model 4L60E units. In order to gain access to the PR valve-train, the trans has to be removed from the vehicle, and the pump has to be pulled out of the transmission.
There are different lengths of Boost Valve/Sleeve, depending on year of 4L60E. Also, the PR Valves come in different sizes. There's the "regular" thickness (aka OEM), and there's an oversized thickness.
If you suspect the PR Valve bore is worn out, you could either:
1). Use an aftermarket oversized PR Valve.
Note: This requires oversizing the bore, and tools are required to do this.
2). Use an aftermarket valve that utilizes longer valve lands in order to use unworn parts of the bore, to essentially restore the health of the PR valve train. Just to be clear, it's not an oversized valve...just a modified valve...that requires no extra tools to get the job done.
Your encouraging words are appreciated.
PS
If you're interested in spreading the word about this channel...here's an easy way to share with friends, family, FB groups, automotive forums, etc.
(Roughly 60-second video)
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: ruclips.net/video/Mvv5Cd2cVW4/видео.html
Thanks for dropping me a line!
@@SouthpawAutoworks Will do, and thanks for the reply.
I was thinking the transgo lengthened pressure valve and new boost valve. I suppose I could get a new pump cover all together, and just use gm parts too.
Also did the line pressure test, when I'm having a problem at idle (have to tap the gas slightly to engage 1st gear, otherwise its in a half neutral state), or shifting into drive (the problem only happens when the trans is warmed up past about 150f or so), pressure is about 46psi. After that tap of the gas pedal, it jumps to about 65 n goes like normal. When I'm not having that issue, pressure is about 65 or so at idle.
Every other gear works just fine as you drive. R has no issue, neither really does starting in 2, but then again it's low torque so the delayed engagement could be there a bit, but not really noticeable.
Judging by that, you thinking pr n boost valve is likely?
How do you do those animations. A++++.
Very carefully... ;)
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Here's the latest video! It went live, minutes ago...
4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation) (60-Sec Preview)
ruclips.net/video/JXFjMlsqirs/видео.html
What's the purpose of accumulator
It's to soften oil pressure spikes...ultimately to soften the shifts, so they don't bang.
I have 200psi line pressure all the time , keeps blowing pump n can't seen 2 get it fix from shop
Has me thinking these possibilities:
1) Worn out Pressure Regulator valve/bore.
2). Pump slide stuck.
IDK the history of your trans (high mileage, recently rebuilt, etc), and I'm unable to road test, or scan your vehicle.
So, I'm shooting in the dark...
@@SouthpawAutoworks po748
Rebuilt
That code is aimed at the EPC Solenoid (Electronic Pressure Control). It has a direct impact on the line pressure...however, it's not the only thing that can affect line pressure.
You can learn more about the EPC Solenoid, by watching this video...
ruclips.net/video/PY1trZeLqTM/видео.html
WARNING:
Do what I do at your own risk.
If it were my 4L60E, I'd be taking a closer look at the EPC Solenoid. I'd monitor the EPC Solenoid with a scan tool, to see what the PCM is commanding (duty cycle), and also verify actual amperage passing through the solenoid.
However, if I didn't have a scan tool (or if everything previously checked out on the scan tool), I'd gain direct access to the solenoid (drain oil, remove oil pan) and get my electrical meter probes right on the solenoid electrical terminals, and check the resistance. It should be right around 3.5 - 8 ohms.
Bad computer finally!!
Why TCC is not fed by AFL?
TCC stands for Torque Converter Clutch. There are two (2) different solenoids associated with the TCC.
1). TCC PWM Solenoid (located in/on the VB [valve-body]).
2). TCC Solenoid (integral part of the wiring harness, that's mounted into the bottom of the pump)(On/Off solenoid).
The solenoid mounted on the VB is fed AFL fluid pressure. However, the solenoid mounted on the pump, does not. Instead, it's fed Converter Feed oil pressure. It's essentially line pressure.
Hope this makes sense, and helps.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thaks a lot. I got a manual and I didn't understand. Now All makes sense. Thanks!!!!
Right on! You bet!
💯💯🙋🏻♂️
Not a bad score...
Thanks for dropping me a line!
I got a 4L60 2002 I really appreciate if you could do something newer .. .. please “: • )
Copy that.
Sir .
Great video, but I’m an old trans tech that sits down for hours and looks at oil passage diagrams for automatic transmissions. Kinda like my automatic transmission porn
Hahahahaha!!!
Love it...
Thanks for dropping me a line!
@@SouthpawAutoworks why don’t you show a rebuild of a really fun transmission like a AX4S or an AW-55 (those really are hateful shitboxes!)
Haha there ya go.
I'm scrubbing through past YT comments, looking for something...and I came across your comment.
LOL
Thanks for the laugh...again. Appreciate you.
@@SouthpawAutoworks what’s the definition of a auto trans rebuilder: INSANE!
TOOOP
Hrh hos are you youf awesome on knowledge of 4l60e i got a 4l60d 4x4 2004 tahoe fullh rebuilt n made it 2 blocks n no gearz tranny wont do nothing no reverse or forwards gears znc ideas
I'm having some difficulty reading your comment...but, here goes.
Questions:
1). With the engine off, check the trans fluid level. Start the engine, and check fluid level again. Did the fluid level drop?
2). What is the Line Pressure reading with the trans in Park, and the engine idling?
Note: Use an automatic transmission pressure gauge (rated over 300 psi).
3). Did you happen to punch it (the throttle) right before you lost all gears?
Automatic Transmission Pressure Gauge:
amzn.to/3NWZGiX (Paid Link)
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@@SouthpawAutoworks j dudnf jack stand test 1st befor i tryed dri b ingnitnkm not goin lie to hou and yes sir i did punch it beforbi lost gesrx however sir i never had reverse at all andbghen ig started actin likebit was ckming around but forward was string but wojldng switch gears at likd never lock up and wouldvdlip and fluix sur was with a transt as r rebuild kit new torque convert we r piston all new clutchs all steels bew or c I eaned i mean all new bushings pump rebuilt all new papers andvseals a casebof new transtar fluid j mean all new barrings etc im a mechanic my friend helped me hse to rebuild don garlitts drag racing motorsvand transmissions for him hes got his shop here in houston anc thatsvwere i work also fullybredtoring cars ground up
My tranny lost all and no gesrs it wont do nothing new rebuild everythings new except the case basically
I made ut 2 blocks let off gas n then nothing and it wont stah in park either u think msin shift valuve in valuve body?
Great job
Thank you, Ken.