One thing I have learned is to use a small pocket screwdriver to fish out the bore plugs and valves. With a pick it is very easy to damage the bore and then have an issue with getting the valves back in place. The pocket screwdriver is just as effective at moving the parts but has a dull edge that is much more friendly to the bore and the valve itself. A pick is good when you have a lot of experience like Nick but it’s still very easy to scratch the bore and valve.
This is a good one Sir! Very interesting and informative. It would be nice to see one with the Sonnax parts and tooling being utilized. I just got my VB-Fix jig last week (RockAuto actually carries a surprisingly generous amount of Sonnax components at decent prices) and I think I destroyed a valve body on my first run. I did learn what I did wrong, but unfortunately it was at a cost.
Thanks, man! I'll be doing a few videos on the Sonnax reamers, fixture and jig set up showing the remanufacturing of 4L60E and 4L80E valve bodies plus others in the near future.
Hi JMC, thank you for watching, appreciate the kind words... As far as the mics go, I have two on the bench (one with flat anvils, another with 'ball' ends for round stuff) and I get what you're saying about them being more accurate/precise as you're not wrong...But are they materially different than a set of calipers for measuring valves? Prob not (you actually say as much above)... I measured those CVBs valves with the one inch mic and its ever so slightly larger (.0002) than what I showed in the vid using dial calipers but takes me about 3-4x longer as I always measure multiple times with the mic to ensure I'm getting an accurate measurement whereas the calipers, while not as precise, are much faster... I use nothing but micrometers when putting together an engine as part of my checking/validation that the machine shop did their job w/the crank, main bore, etc...No plasti-gauge or dial calipers there, lol.
The spare or extra O-rings that came with my kit (A74741QA) were smaller if the TCC valve was too tight for the install, not sure if it's the same with the kit you have (CAN Bus style).
Hi Issac, i cant recall off the top of my head for that specific kit but i think that's correct for all of their TCC valves in that the spare O rings are smaller. Thank you for watching!
Hi Alvin, are you referring to the TCC regulator valve in the valve body? If so, I believe I address that in the video and give different scenarios for when to block and not block it.
I believe installing that particular "Fitsall" valve only "fixes" the P1870 code. You don't mention that it defeats the PWM function. Will the average person notice the mileage difference? Probably not. But there are numerous reliable articles (Sonnax etc) that indicate by defeating the PWM, there is a possibility of premature torque converter clutch lining failure due to the resultant "shock instead of slip".
"You don't mention that it defeats the PWM function" Because it doesn't. It was designed to work with later model units that have ACM/VVT so keeps the PWM active...I spoke to Fitzall before purchasing to specifically address that issue. That bore was wore out - the Fitzall valve fixed it as you saw via the testing...It was either that or ream the bore and install Sonnax's oversized TCC valve kit which would be fine as well but more expensive.
@@nickstransmissions With all due respect Nick, if that's what Fitzall told you, then they sold you a story.(interesting they don't describe their valves sequence of operation on their website. VERY limited information) When you remove the spring between the isolator valve and the regulator valve and make them not able to move, then you are DEAFEATING the PWM. That's how they achieve the PWM!!!! When they oscillate, they control pressure to the TCC. I am sure you know this. Without oscillating, they become an "on-off" valve and EC3 TC's DO NOT like "on-off". They need to slip.
Yes, I know that and specifically asked Fitzall about the valve's ability to modulate and that is what they told me. I've used it before without any issues, including one I built about 6 years ago and haven't heard anything since. I'll let you know if anything happens with this last one but it should be fine. That said, you're correct about the dearth of information on Fitzall's website which in sharp contrast with Sonnax who provides all the relevant context and procedural direction associated with their parts. As always, thank you for watching Skutahuniai.
@@nickstransmissions You may or may not have any problems. I'm not saying it's guaranteed to make issues. Yes, their kit does solve the 1870 problem but in doing so, as I have stated, it ALSO eliminates the PWM. If they said it still modulates then they are A - misinformed about their own product or B - downright lying. If you yourself Nick take a step back and say to yourself "How on earth is the isolation valve and regulator valve supposed to oscillate when the spring is gone and in its place there is a solid metal piece that along with the valves themselves, fills the entire length of the valve bore."
Ah, i see where the point of confusion is...That particular version of their valve (2004+) isn't solid - it has a spring inside that is allowed to oscillate so it maintains the PWM functionality to the extent required by ACM and VVT for engines so equipped. The valves for the 1995-2003 model years are solid and keep the inboard valve from moving at all.
Your uploads are very detailed as if you were doing a training class full of people. 😁
Thank you for the kind words and view, TurboMalibuV6! Appreciate it 🙂.
Very good video and hats off to you the instructor.
Thanks, Wilburn!
One thing I have learned is to use a small pocket screwdriver to fish out the bore plugs and valves. With a pick it is very easy to damage the bore and then have an issue with getting the valves back in place. The pocket screwdriver is just as effective at moving the parts but has a dull edge that is much more friendly to the bore and the valve itself. A pick is good when you have a lot of experience like Nick but it’s still very easy to scratch the bore and valve.
Thanks, Ross...You can also use a 90 degree pick that you round off to minimize your chances of damaging anything or scoring the bores up.
This is a good one Sir! Very interesting and informative. It would be nice to see one with the Sonnax parts and tooling being utilized. I just got my VB-Fix jig last week (RockAuto actually carries a surprisingly generous amount of Sonnax components at decent prices) and I think I destroyed a valve body on my first run. I did learn what I did wrong, but unfortunately it was at a cost.
Thanks, man! I'll be doing a few videos on the Sonnax reamers, fixture and jig set up showing the remanufacturing of 4L60E and 4L80E valve bodies plus others in the near future.
Another outstanding video! Thanks Nick!👍👍
You should try using a 0-1 inch micrometer. They are more accurate, not that you need to be, but still. Love the content thanks for sharing.
Hi JMC, thank you for watching, appreciate the kind words...
As far as the mics go, I have two on the bench (one with flat anvils, another with 'ball' ends for round stuff) and I get what you're saying about them being more accurate/precise as you're not wrong...But are they materially different than a set of calipers for measuring valves? Prob not (you actually say as much above)...
I measured those CVBs valves with the one inch mic and its ever so slightly larger (.0002) than what I showed in the vid using dial calipers but takes me about 3-4x longer as I always measure multiple times with the mic to ensure I'm getting an accurate measurement whereas the calipers, while not as precise, are much faster...
I use nothing but micrometers when putting together an engine as part of my checking/validation that the machine shop did their job w/the crank, main bore, etc...No plasti-gauge or dial calipers there, lol.
The spare or extra O-rings that came with my kit (A74741QA) were smaller if the TCC valve was too tight for the install, not sure if it's the same with the kit you have (CAN Bus style).
Hi Issac, i cant recall off the top of my head for that specific kit but i think that's correct for all of their TCC valves in that the spare O rings are smaller. Thank you for watching!
How do you feel about blocking the tcc valve
Hi Alvin, are you referring to the TCC regulator valve in the valve body? If so, I believe I address that in the video and give different scenarios for when to block and not block it.
I believe installing that particular "Fitsall" valve only "fixes" the P1870 code. You don't mention that it defeats the PWM function. Will the average person notice the mileage difference? Probably not. But there are numerous reliable articles (Sonnax etc) that indicate by defeating the PWM, there is a possibility of premature torque converter clutch lining failure due to the resultant "shock instead of slip".
"You don't mention that it defeats the PWM function" Because it doesn't.
It was designed to work with later model units that have ACM/VVT so keeps the PWM active...I spoke to Fitzall before purchasing to specifically address that issue. That bore was wore out - the Fitzall valve fixed it as you saw via the testing...It was either that or ream the bore and install Sonnax's oversized TCC valve kit which would be fine as well but more expensive.
@@nickstransmissions With all due respect Nick, if that's what Fitzall told you, then they sold you a story.(interesting they don't describe their valves sequence of operation on their website. VERY limited information) When you remove the spring between the isolator valve and the regulator valve and make them not able to move, then you are DEAFEATING the PWM. That's how they achieve the PWM!!!! When they oscillate, they control pressure to the TCC. I am sure you know this. Without oscillating, they become an "on-off" valve and EC3 TC's DO NOT like "on-off". They need to slip.
Yes, I know that and specifically asked Fitzall about the valve's ability to modulate and that is what they told me. I've used it before without any issues, including one I built about 6 years ago and haven't heard anything since. I'll let you know if anything happens with this last one but it should be fine.
That said, you're correct about the dearth of information on Fitzall's website which in sharp contrast with Sonnax who provides all the relevant context and procedural direction associated with their parts.
As always, thank you for watching Skutahuniai.
@@nickstransmissions You may or may not have any problems. I'm not saying it's guaranteed to make issues. Yes, their kit does solve the 1870 problem but in doing so, as I have stated, it ALSO eliminates the PWM. If they said it still modulates then they are A - misinformed about their own product or B - downright lying. If you yourself Nick take a step back and say to yourself "How on earth is the isolation valve and regulator valve supposed to oscillate when the spring is gone and in its place there is a solid metal piece that along with the valves themselves, fills the entire length of the valve bore."
Ah, i see where the point of confusion is...That particular version of their valve (2004+) isn't solid - it has a spring inside that is allowed to oscillate so it maintains the PWM functionality to the extent required by ACM and VVT for engines so equipped. The valves for the 1995-2003 model years are solid and keep the inboard valve from moving at all.