Hi love the vid. I have a question. I have a N54 that stop running when it was just ticking over. Long story short my crank bolt came out. So before I throw loads of money at it I want to try to time the car myself. Question is can I undo the camshaft bolts 1st then replace the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine over to find top dead centre without the top half moving? I’m hoping she only slip a little bit before the engine stop.
If the crank bolt came out you may have a goosed engine. Mine did the very same on the dyno and it resulted in 24 very bent valves :( if you got luck though, you would be wisest to undo the cams themselves to take the pressure off the valves, that way you can turn the crank without hitting the valves. Once the crank is at tdc you could then bolt down the cams in the correct positions and time it from there. Hopefully that makes sense!
@@listerofsmeg80 thanks that helps a lot 👍 I’ve spoken to a few ppl that had there crank bolt come out and the lucky ones was the ones that it happen on low revs. The high rev ones needed a new engine. So I live in hope lol. Thanks again and I will be looking out for your next vid 👍
Once the lock pin is in the crank shouldn’t move up or down right , my lock pin is in and I can’t move the crank up or down but it does have small play .. is that fine or it has to be rock solid to the point where it should even move at all? Great video by the way
@@listerofsmeg80 ok I see so it is fine if I’m able to move up and down just a lil from the crank hub as long as it doesn’t go far up or down I’m locked in , Im literally doing this right now to fix the timing.. after changing the cams and ledges something went wrong .. thank you for the response btw
Hi, just wondering if you know what causes the timing to go out. Currently having vanos issues and car is in the garage. Has done 72k miles and full BMW service history, 16 year old 135i with BMW warranty so hoping they cover at least some part of fixing it although they don’t cover adjustments
@@Dave-k9 could be a few things, but i guess most common would be a tired chain tensioner, over rev, stretched chain….only takes a single tooth jump and thats it.
@@listerofsmeg80 thankyou. The garage have just today mentioned potential oil pump failure as it generally runs well and just pops a code from time to time and one of the codes is related to something sticking. Getting it stripped to investigate next week. Seems a very complex system! Cheers for the reply and video
Yes i did have it installed, and it was tightened by hand until the chain became noticeably ‘tight’. Turned the engine twice to check position then took it out and reinstalled the actual tensioner.
I have a question I can’t get answers to because I can’t get logged in to Bimmerpost or e90post. I have a 08 N54 and my serpentine belt shredded. Nothing went into the crankcase after doing a thorough inspection. I was having a 2a87 and 3100 thrown so I got two new vanos solenoids because everything was pointing to bad solenoids. After replacing them with OEM certified solenoids and the proper oil with new filter I fired up the car and it went from 2a87 to 2a99. It starts up fine but idles really rough. 3100 is still present because of limp mode. I’ve replaced serpentine, vanos solenoids, oil filter housing gasket and cooler gasket, upper radiator hose, the “Mickey mouse” coolant hose flange, intake manifold gaskets, the oil change and filter, coolant bleed/flush/change. Could it be the vanos filters or a blockage somewhere causing the code? Any help or info at all would be greatly appreciated.
I had codes hinting to replace rhe camtrays and seals. When i setup everything to start the repairs my timing was the same as yours, it was a little off but always started and idled with no issues. I then proceeded to make the repairs and set the timing with the lock pin and alignment tools. Now that everything is reinstalled i get no start and the code 2A9A with an occasional 2A9B. I have swapped all the sensors, checked all wires and connectors with no difference. I have since removed the cover and inspected the timing again and everything still lines up perfectly when i install the timing tool. Any idea what it could be?
@@Mh-ot1dshonestly been on the back burner for the winter. I'm trying to get back into it now that it's warm out. I have checked the timing 3 times before I threw in the towel but I am going to try and set it up like it was originally and hopefully it'll run like normal. I am getting sputtering and it running like crap for about 30 seconds before it dies. No codes or anything. It is leaving alot of soot on my plugs.
@@Mh-ot1ds no codes pop up for you either? I may do the old fashion way of finding TDC and stick something like a ziptie or a straw in cylinder 1 spark plug hole I'm wondering if I'm off a tooth or 2 and it's not able to adjust the VANOS to compensate
I had this exact problem after changing intake cam ledge, got exhaust vanos code so gonna give this a go
Hope you get it sorted 👍
Hi love the vid. I have a question. I have a N54 that stop running when it was just ticking over. Long story short my crank bolt came out. So before I throw loads of money at it I want to try to time the car myself. Question is can I undo the camshaft bolts 1st then replace the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine over to find top dead centre without the top half moving? I’m hoping she only slip a little bit before the engine stop.
If the crank bolt came out you may have a goosed engine. Mine did the very same on the dyno and it resulted in 24 very bent valves :( if you got luck though, you would be wisest to undo the cams themselves to take the pressure off the valves, that way you can turn the crank without hitting the valves. Once the crank is at tdc you could then bolt down the cams in the correct positions and time it from there. Hopefully that makes sense!
@@listerofsmeg80 thanks that helps a lot 👍 I’ve spoken to a few ppl that had there crank bolt come out and the lucky ones was the ones that it happen on low revs. The high rev ones needed a new engine. So I live in hope lol. Thanks again and I will be looking out for your next vid 👍
Once the lock pin is in the crank shouldn’t move up or down right , my lock pin is in and I can’t move the crank up or down but it does have small play .. is that fine or it has to be rock solid to the point where it should even move at all? Great video by the way
Thats normal, the hole is oval on the flexplate/flywheel to allow a little movement
@@listerofsmeg80 ok I see so it is fine if I’m able to move up and down just a lil from the crank hub as long as it doesn’t go far up or down I’m locked in , Im literally doing this right now to fix the timing.. after changing the cams and ledges something went wrong .. thank you for the response btw
@@listerofsmeg80 getting codes 2a98 2a99 and 3100 limp mode of course
@@boost7236 if it was me, turn the crank clockwise until it stops and then time from there. Let us know how you get on :)
@@boost7236 whats 2a99? I dont have my list to hand…
Hi, just wondering if you know what causes the timing to go out. Currently having vanos issues and car is in the garage. Has done 72k miles and full BMW service history, 16 year old 135i with BMW warranty so hoping they cover at least some part of fixing it although they don’t cover adjustments
@@Dave-k9 could be a few things, but i guess most common would be a tired chain tensioner, over rev, stretched chain….only takes a single tooth jump and thats it.
@@listerofsmeg80 thankyou. The garage have just today mentioned potential oil pump failure as it generally runs well and just pops a code from time to time and one of the codes is related to something sticking. Getting it stripped to investigate next week. Seems a very complex system! Cheers for the reply and video
Yay you posted! ❤️
That i did :)
How tight did you turn the tensioner tool?
Did u have tensioner tool attached when you rotated the engine?
Yes i did have it installed, and it was tightened by hand until the chain became noticeably ‘tight’. Turned the engine twice to check position then took it out and reinstalled the actual tensioner.
I have a question I can’t get answers to because I can’t get logged in to Bimmerpost or e90post. I have a 08 N54 and my serpentine belt shredded. Nothing went into the crankcase after doing a thorough inspection. I was having a 2a87 and 3100 thrown so I got two new vanos solenoids because everything was pointing to bad solenoids. After replacing them with OEM certified solenoids and the proper oil with new filter I fired up the car and it went from 2a87 to 2a99. It starts up fine but idles really rough. 3100 is still present because of limp mode. I’ve replaced serpentine, vanos solenoids, oil filter housing gasket and cooler gasket, upper radiator hose, the “Mickey mouse” coolant hose flange, intake manifold gaskets, the oil change and filter, coolant bleed/flush/change. Could it be the vanos filters or a blockage somewhere causing the code? Any help or info at all would be greatly appreciated.
Great job 👍💯
Thanks, hopefully it’s helping a few people!
I had codes hinting to replace rhe camtrays and seals. When i setup everything to start the repairs my timing was the same as yours, it was a little off but always started and idled with no issues. I then proceeded to make the repairs and set the timing with the lock pin and alignment tools. Now that everything is reinstalled i get no start and the code 2A9A with an occasional 2A9B. I have swapped all the sensors, checked all wires and connectors with no difference. I have since removed the cover and inspected the timing again and everything still lines up perfectly when i install the timing tool. Any idea what it could be?
Did you solve this?
@@Mh-ot1dshonestly been on the back burner for the winter. I'm trying to get back into it now that it's warm out. I have checked the timing 3 times before I threw in the towel but I am going to try and set it up like it was originally and hopefully it'll run like normal. I am getting sputtering and it running like crap for about 30 seconds before it dies. No codes or anything. It is leaving alot of soot on my plugs.
@@erikalvarez4516 update me if you have a solution please! I got exactly the same issue. My ideas have come to an end....
@@Mh-ot1ds no codes pop up for you either? I may do the old fashion way of finding TDC and stick something like a ziptie or a straw in cylinder 1 spark plug hole I'm wondering if I'm off a tooth or 2 and it's not able to adjust the VANOS to compensate
@@erikalvarez4516did you figure it out?