This causes VANOS codes! - E90 Cam Bearing Ledge Failure DIY
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- The BMW N51/N51/N53/N54/N55 engine family used a vanos system that routed oil through passages in the front of the cams that were ringed by steel square cut metal recta-rings and these rings would wear into the aluminum bearing surface over time and cut grooves in them. Eventually this would lead to an oil pressure leak that would cause a failure of the VANOS system and the following codes:
2A82 VANOS intake - stiff; jammed mechanically
2A87 VANOS exhaust - stiff; jammed mechanically
3100 Boost-pressure control, deactivation - boost-pressure buildup prohibited (N54 only)
Normally you would replace the VANOS solenoids when you have codes like this since that is relatively cheap and easy to do, however you could replace the VANOS solenoids a hundred times and never solve the problem if it's being caused by these grooves. The only way to solve it is to replace the cam bearing trays. Note: all engine models have replaceable exhaust cam trays, however the N51/N52 have cam trays that are integrated into the cylinder head due to the fact that they have the valvetronic system which varies the opening of the valve. If the intake bearings are grooved on this engine, you need to replace the entire cylinder head I'm afraid.
BMW discontinued the use of the steel recta-rings in 2012 and replaced them with teflon square cut o-rings. This is the model year when the N55 engine was introduced, and that engine uses the same cam trays. According to the BMW service history on my car, I had thought mine had already been replaced but as you will see, that was not the case.
This job could cost you well over $3000-$5000 depending on the shop doing the service. New cam trays are $550 for each side, so that's just $1100 in parts alone, not to mention the markup you will pay on those through the shop and whatever the labor costs. In this video I will show you how to do it yourself, but beware that it's not for the faint of heart. It's important that you have watched my valve cover gasket video so that you understand how to remove it so that you can begin the job of removing the cams:
N54 Valve Cover Gasket DIY: • BMW E90 N54 Valve Cove...
00:00:00 Intro
00:00:12 The problem, explained
00:02:38 Timing tools needed
00:03:06 Overview of the job
00:04:05 Rotating the engine to top dead center
00:04:21 Removing the fan
00:07:10 Installing the locking pin
00:12:59 Remove the cam bolts
00:13:38 Removing the timing cogs
00:14:18 Removing the timing chain tensioner
00:15:35 Removing the cam phasers
00:16:21 Unbolting the cams
00:18:44 Is the intake cam tray grooved?
00:19:39 Removing the exhaust cam
00:20:49 Is the exhaust cam tray good?
00:21:05 Analysis
00:22:22 About the replacement teflon o-rings
00:23:47 About the hydraulic lifters (valve lash adjusters)
00:25:27 New parts have arrived
00:28:43 Installing the new teflon o-rings
00:30:44 Installing the new lifters
00:32:02 About the cam alignment tools
00:35:23 The exhaust cam goes back in!
00:39:33 The intake cam goes back in!
00:40:56 Torquing down the cam bolts
00:43:44 Reinstalling the cam phasers
00:45:35 Installing the cam locking tools
00:46:48 Installing the timing chain tensioner tool
00:47:48 Installing the cam bolts
00:48:59 Installing the timing chain tensioner
00:49:38 Removing the crank pin & we're done!
00:50:02 After reinstalling the valve cover & the fuel pump fuse, we start the engine!
00:51:48 Final thoughts
00:52:19 Wrap-up
N5x engine family timing tool kit: amzn.to/3AuTw1X
Upgraded Teflon O-ring part number: 11317587757
Intake cam tray (same for all N5x engines): 11127550913
Exhaust cam tray (same for all N5x engines): 11127531224
Torque Values:
Cam trays to cylinder head: 8 Nm + 60 degrees
Chain guide to cylinder head: 8.5 Nm
Chain tensioner: 55 Nm
VANOS to Camshaft: 20 Nm + 180 degrees
Further Information: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/201...
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video. 
Авто/Мото
NOTE: In the video I said they introduced the teflon o-ring in the 2009 model year but this was incorrect, it was introduced in the 2012 model year which was when the N55 engine was released. So, basically, in the LCI "facelift" models.
Where you live buddy ? I’m in jersey need some work on my car 08 550i m sport.
Ahhh fuck this makes sense as to why my 2011 335is are getting these.
EDIT: I did the job on my 2011 335is and the seal were teflon/plastic type, it still caused grooving in the tray. Maybe the previous owners beat the car when it wasn't warmed up, I cannot say why it was grooved.
What was the mileage this repair was done
@@JackRR15 did you ever get around to doing them? my 12 335is is getting an intake code 2a82. they have metal seals on the is too I assume.
@@yiannidee Hey sorry I never saw the replies and thought I updated my original comment here... my 2011 335IS did indeed have teflon seals and still grooved my bearing ledge. I only replace the intake bearing ledge but my exhaust ws also grooved but without codes, so might have to do that in the future. I was told on the BMW Tech subreddit it can still happens sometimes, I assume maytbe when someone doesn't let the car warm up fuly before beating on it I don't know.
Greetings from Norway here. I would just like to inform everyone that it is possible to repair this and I repaired both my camshaft trays using a lathe. I linebored ONLY the seal surface that was worn down and then bought a slug of ptfe rod and from it I made oversized Teflon seals to match the diameter of the machined cam trays and everything is okay. The engine is an n53. So if you have time and a lathe this is possible to repair with only the cost of the Teflon round stock and some bolts.
Very nice, but that's definitely an advanced level repair!
@@50sKid yeah true no really a home repair for the average guy
Hi, do you have measurements of the custom oversized Teflon rings by any chance?
@@dmarkovina Sorry I don't have any dimensions for this because both sealing surfaces were mashined just enough to clean up the wear groove and then I made the Teflon seals to fit each seal surface. I took measurements of the area that didn't have any wear and then from a new original bmw Teflon seal to figure out the outer dimensions of the seals. If I would have to do this again I would have machined the cam trays to a specific dimension and made spare seals for them. Anyway the engine is still running strong and has done about 30.000KM with the custom made seals.
@@endrekalvenes8460 Thank you - but they had to be bigger than the original teflon seals produced by BMW as a replacement for the steel ones?
Jason, you’re such a good instructor. Gifted. And we are the beneficiaries. Thank you.
Jason, you keep out doing yourself! Great DIY that a lot of guys will need sometime. Keep them coming.
Jason! Thank you so much for doing this video on the teflon upgrade as well as the HVA lifters! I need to do this on my N52! And you made it simple to follow.
Wow, you really made this job seem a lot less intimidating than other videos I’ve seen. Thanks man 👍
I really appreciate the work you have put into this and your work for the community. Excellent turtorial!
I have always been worried about the "special tools" :D good to know its not necessary!
I watched did my research on how to diy this job and every video or post i was still confused on how to do it but you made it very clear thank you for bringing confidence into me taking this job myself
You're a legend. Thanks for the great coverage on this diy!
Loved this video. You went above and beyond on this one once again. Thanks!
Good job 50sKid, really appreciate the effort. I have a BMW N52 2012 and I hope I doesn’t have to do this. It is fun tinkering with the engine, but sometimes I’m thinking to buy a Lexus and just drive it without getting my hands dirty. I know it will be boring and I’ll have to find something else to do for fun.
THANK YOU "J" GREETINGS FROM TORONTO, CANADA, GOOD JOB AS ALWAYS. YOU ARE STILL MY HERO.
Nothing like a straight 6 motor. I love em!
Really not looking forward to this ... But it's always a relief knowing that there's a 50skid diy on the procedure.
My go to guy! 50’s kid delivers again!
Great video, Jason. Even though I don't have a E90, these are still interesting to watch. Will make an effort to start reviewing the E46 videos once again.
Thanks man, I'm trying to keep it interesting if I can.
Fantastic work Jason
Bro is a real gift thanks u helped me retime my engine an new seals
Thx man that was a really nice well explained with details in the E-90 engine.... keep up the good work and I appreciate you sharing the task here on RUclips man!!!🤩😎
Glad you liked it!
That was a great video. I have to do the very same job on my 2010 X3 with an N52 engine. Thanks it was very helpful!
Great Video, as always.
Thanks for sharing, Jason.
Thanks for watching!
For everyone doing this job, note that you should technically be using the camshaft locking tools BEFORE removing the central camshaft bolts. It avoid putting torque on the timing system when you force to unbolt it. BMW workshop manual says to do this.
Great video, man. I got here because I may have to do the exhaust cam on my N55 project. I am only getting exhaust VANOS codes (thankfully since on the N55 the intake being bad means new head). If I end up replacing the exhaust clamshell, I am definitely using this video!
Really enjoy the diy videos you do.
Thank you!
Thanks for the info, upload and explanations 👍🏽 Totally Appreciated thanks
Very well detailed with all your videos keep up the good work 👍man 🏆
50s Kid is back !!!!! woot woot , good to see ya !!!
Thanks!
Great job and video Jason. Pls update us if the vanos codes return.
Great video 50sKid i don't have a BMW but i like to watch your videos.
Man your videos are really fantastic 👌
Another great video! Thanks 😁
Fantastic content sir!!!!!! Thank you!
You're very good Jason
Amazing video! thanks for giving us confidence
Happy to help!
The reason for using the cam ledge alignment tool 32:40 is for the alignment of the cam journals to a 1/1000th of an inch accuracy, but also a side benefit is to keep the bottom cam ledge from separating as you’re bolting them down.
Man it's the only thing holding me back from doing the job. That really worries me but I can't read any info online. 500$ tool.
I would think if you have two or four bolts or the Ender when you go to lay the camp shellback in place you could start tightening those down by hand on either end
Thanks for the clip my friend
There’s tons of giggity’s after 9:50 lol
fantastic video! thanks for this!
Before removing the VANOS phaser adjuster bolts at 13:05 I think you’re supposed to have the cam alignment tool installed at this moment. Otherwise you’re torquing against the timing chain and when they are loose nothing is holding the cams in phase except cam bearing friction. 👍
Yes exactly right I’m in bmw school
It doesn’t matter because he is re timing the motor anyway
I was wondering that as well. I was like man he’s doing it with no tool isn’t it going to move? Doing this job right now so glad I saw this comment.
He had the crank pin installed.
what bmw school ? @@corbinhollingsworth134
you're a legend bro, thank you.
The special tool is to 1 check if the cams are in correcting timing with the crankshaft then it holds down cams when your releasing the vanos actuater
Great vid thanks for all that you do, I'm in the market for a new project car after my e46 was totalled a week after I got it 100% sorted thanks to your vids. Guess e90 it is.... Also big turbos when?
Thanks for sharing l got 2009 bmw 335xi saund like exhaust camshaft taping noise but no misfire code just for vanos know sensor too l just take valve cover out to see if has metal damage but l found need tools to hold cams May after take cams out will be see something this video helps lot thanks you 🙏 so much
Great video man, you really take your time and explain! Is there any other shot on apart from the vamos code? I feel a slapping noise when I give my car some gas, anyone know what it could be? Cheers and thanks in advanced
Very good video 👍
FCP euro now sells this as a clamshell refresh kit, with the teflon seals.
Also if the insert is missing from the oil filter cap this will also cause vanos faults. Many over look this. I believe those cam phasers are the old style ones. I’ve replaced many of those for vanos faults also. The bolts are prone to backing out or breaking
What is a insert on oil filter cap and does a 03 bmw 745i have one?
I have the design without vanos bolts but at idle I have a strange noise that resembles the one from broken vanos bolts…
Nice Work 👍
Man, I thought the engine space inside my 2011 Mini S Clubman was tight when I recently changed the timing chain. Good luck
Great job👍🏽👍🏽
you r back!
great work bro
Thanks dude!
Though it is common enough that they exposed an SIB addressing it, we don’t and didn’t see many bearing ledge wear. Yes every now and then, but not frequent. I suspect if those engine owners did more frequent oil Changes- the wear wouldn’t occur
Good job
I’ve broken a cam in an m50 before by tightening it down unevenly. The design is very similar.
Excellent content! I I'm glad your making videos again. Just curious how much you paid for all the parts. I have an 08 e60 535i with 230k miles. Haven't had any issues with this yet but I know I should do it.
The teflon rings are super cheap, I don't even remember. The cam trays were very cheap too. Probably like $50. Of course you're not gonna get that price unless you go and put in the work to find a unicorn. :-)
Great informative videoss. Could this also happen on an N62 4.8 V8? Im having issues with intake cam error codes and it is not moving on INPA graph.
I have replaced all sensors, Vanos actuators, oil, checked all connections etc... I'm out of ideas.
Thanks Ben
Thanks, well done :)
Everybody goes gaga over having the prior maintenance records, and yet I have found on my own BMW a third of the work was not actually completed. I've got original valve cover gaskets that are crumbling apart yet according to the receipts I have, they should have been replaced. As I continue to dig further into my '05 Z4 I'm finding more and more of this stuff.
Nice video
Thank you
so just to be clear, if i keep getting the intake vanos code after replacing it with a new oil filter cap and filter, i need to replace the intake cam tray? i do see some oil leaking on the right side of the motor
I recently had this issue on a 2009 E91 as well.
Hat off to you Sir! Mind telling us what was the mileage on the car when you did the job?
@50sKid can you help a brotha out? How did you take the cam bolts off without using the special locking tools and just the flywheel pin? Is that fine to do?
Absolutely God tier video, and overall work mate! Great stuff!
Probably won't go big turbos. First do all the maintenance and then go JB4 at most. California has a new smog law saying you can't even tune so I need something that can be "disconnected" easily.
Hey. Great video. Do I have to lock the flywheel when replacing only the vanos adjusters? I locked the camshafts so wondering if the flywheel lock is required.
I sold my Tesla Model Y last week. It was a 2021 model that I bought in March '21 and after owing it for 7 months, the buyer (CarMax) paid me 10K more than what I paid for. While I was there, I asked them to run some numbers on my daily driver E90 BMW. They appraised it at $2.9K. Now we know why people are dumping their BMWs.
I was wondering if I can get that parts number on the lifters. Thanks!
Hello, I am trying to get a car at TDC and the crankshaft won’t turn. I took out the spark plugs and left the car in park with the e brake and I can’t seem to get it to budge. What is the issue? It is a n51 automatic.
You made my day with this sentence :
I hope they are authentic INA parts not aftermarket in a INA box
INA is already cheap aftermarket replacement part
I have a BMW E90 and the engine light came on, my garage cleared it and it seems to be ok but he did warn me that if the VANOS Solenoid is an issue then it could be very expensive to fix as the issue is inside the engine. Could this be true and if so could he be talking about the repair shown in this video? How much should I expect to pay for such a repair at a garage here in the UK? Thank you
When the lock pin is in , does that mean it should not move from the hub from either way?
Getting that locking pin out was the hardest part... I almost gave up on trying and on my last go at it I got it out. Question I have the BMW locking pin in place buy im still Getting play from the crank hub. What am I doing wrong.what pin did you use the black or silver?
What if I don’t have the chain tensioner thing to fix the slack? Is there anyway to do it
I have a 07 bmw 535 it’s making a loud knocking noise and the codes I pull up were vanos camshaft solenoid I replaced both of them and it didn’t not fix the problem do you think my camshaft bearings can cause that loud noise
I'm doing this job Right now replacing all the lifters. To lock the flywheel with the pin is it the gold pin or black pin? I have the gold one in place but experiencing some play clockwise and counterclockwise. Is that normal? The QR codes are facing upward. 🤔 Any feed back will be appreciated.
Submerge your new lifters in a container of oil, and leave them soak overnight. Give them a couple of squeezes under the oil before you take them out. You will see a few air bubbles come out of the lifter. Then install them. They wont run dry for as long when you fire it up, and it won't clatter as bad or as long. Just don't pump them more than a few times under the oil, you don't want to over pump them and have a hung valve when you go to start it. I've over done the lifter pumping under the oil once on a G.M. engine, and it had ZERO compression when I went to start it the same day, after I got it assembled. I let it sit for a few hours and the overpumped lifters bled down and it was fine then. It may seem like overkill to pre-fill the new lifters with oil, but I like to do it to avoid the minute possibility of a collapsed lifter during the time they run dry on the first start-up. I did have a new lifter collapse once before I started doing the lifter soak, and never had it happen again after I started doing it. Maybe it was a fluke, maybe not. 🤷🏻
Hello,
I have N46 engine, I assume, I might have the same problem, as I've already replaced,
- Vanos
- vanos actuator
- sensor
- timing re-set
issue still exist, position not reached (ISTA - Vanos test)
Is there a special part for my engine as well ?
thanks
Maybe I missed it but it wasn't completely clear to me if you used the junkyard cam with the junkyard cam tray or did you use the original cam? I'm guessing junkyard to junkyard parts correct? Anyway, as usual a very clear description and narrative in the video. That, to me, is your trademark.
That is a good question and... I don't remember. I also don't think it would have mattered which one I used because it has roller rockers. Premature valve lobe wear was only notorious on flat tappet cams in older American cars but I've never heard of that being an issue in BMW engines. Thank you for the compliment man, I do work hard on trying to be as clear and concise as possible. I missed that detail though!
@38:47 is exactly how I feel every time I crack this car open. I spend most of time searching for the bolt I just had on my hand or the part that I just removed. Frustrating 🤣
Hola que tal amigo, el caso aqui es que no encuentro esos o-ring de teflon, no sé si me puedas proporcionar un sitio en donde buscarlos y que hagan envíos internacionales para aca a México
Great video ! But how did you aligne the cam phasers ?
It’s in the video. The timing tools have a jig for that
How you gonna line up the camshaft to prevent valves damage?
I’m getting VANOS and a crank/cam code and my engine is knocking on my n54, can cam related issues cause knocking?
Is it enough when i replace only the input cam seals? Because i got only vanos failure with this side, not with the exhaust. Or should i do both. Please let me know im working on it.
Great video as always!!!
Unrelated - If you ever have access to an S65 engine (e9x M3), I would LOVE for you to rod bearings on that engine!
That would certainly be challenging on jackstands! lol
@@50sKid For sure! I'm hoping to do it within the next year. If you want to come out to Maryland you're welcome to help me (and film)!
@@TheNewMechanic That's a tad far for me
@@50sKid nd he will even offer to pay for your ticket
@@TheNewMechanic Theres a lot of shops in the DMV area that can do rod bearings :p
Does anybody have 2A7C and P052B codes? I am trying to figure out if my N51 head has the grooves
I checked everything else and got to this point.
Hey bud, what happens if you let it go un repaired and just drive with no cares?
50sKid ? I gambled on a 09 bmw 328xi 1 owner 103 k solid clean car for my daughter she's 16 the just cranks lady parked for few months I replaced battery registered a new one and car just turns over code is crank cam correlation. I gambled on this just being a crankshaft sensor as ive seen many other e90s crank and crank exactly like this and then fire up w new sensor.. what are your thoughts sir? I haven't attempted the crank sensor just yet im a bit nervous lol I pray it isn't timing I mean 103 k u wouldn't think it be a timing issue just yet hoping u see this I value your opinion and videos u do a excellent job w them. thanks in advance man.
This happened to me in 2019 with a N52 engines 325i, had the car a few weeks and it started acting up. Took it to a well known bmw independent garage here in London, and they diagnosed this exact thing but also the head had wear ridges from this... Basically engine is almost scrap. I threw it back at the dealership and threatened to sue unless I got my £ back. Bought myself an M54 powered 325Ci... been BMW since I was young but now I Will never Ever touch a newer BMW again.
Is this problem still a warranty replacement when i got a 135i for 2008?
You changed the entrance with new Tevlon rings + bearing shell and the output you didnt or?
Obviously if they didn't do the exhaust camshaft Holdings they would have done the intake camshaft but probably did not! You should contact BMW and make them reimburse you!
Can these ledges be fixed in the 328i heads? Or do you need a new head?
How many points of failure do you need?
Like your channel have a 2011 BMW with the n52 engine that has a lot of valve train rattle in it when it's cold it's really loud when it warms up it goes away just slightly but you can still hear the rattle in it what could it possibly be
Stuck lifters
Great job lad! Did you try rotating the crankshaft to test the camshaft position with the timing too before 2 x 90 degree screw final torque? I had a scenerio like the camshaft position slightly unfitted to the timing tool even torqued all with the tool.
No, but had no issues with the job. Cars running great
I've never had any issues like that either. Was your tool worn-out, or perhaps from China? 😲
@@davelowets the tools were from my fren and origin unknown:) it only had a slight unfit at the rear of inlet camshaft. You even can't notice it from the front vanos. Probably it is still under the tolerance of N46.
@@horrychan2304 Most likely. I can't imagine a slight misalignment of less than a degree making a whole lot of difference.
Thank you very much for this video. I'm chasing a horrible idle on this N54 E93 I just picked up from a friend. Codes are 2A99 and 2A9A. He was frustrated with it and said to me it's probably the cam ledges. Did I hear right that all N5x motors use the same Cam Trays and that LCI motors should be using Teflon rings? Can u please confirm? Hoping to get lucky at the junkyard.
Try replacing the vanos valves first. Yes they all use the same cam trays and supposedly the LCI N55s are using the teflon rings but I won't believe that until I've taken one apart in a junkyard! lol
Did you ever figure out the 2A99 issue? I currently have the same code and am pretty sure at this point that the bearing ledges are the issues.. I've already checked and cleaned all camshaft and crankshaft position sensors, Vanos solenoids, Vanos non return valves, new oil filter cap, and changed oil and filter twice in less than 1,000 miles. I've also retimed the engine properly which helped it run perfect for about 6 days until 2A99 and 3001 came back up again. Hoping to hear that you've found a result within the past year.
@@austinmerrival927 This car has been on the back burner and weirdly enough, within the past few weeks I've been prepping for oil change and cleaning of solenoids & CPS's, I've been battling with the reality that I have to buy that Cam ledge kit from FCP or ECS and rent a cam lock tool. @$565+ each cam ledge, plus bolts etc. This is an expensive & tedious repair. I've wondered about repairing the groove in the cam tray by sanding or refinishing, but I can't find anyone that's attempted it. I see WolfAutoparts sells used starting @ $169. I'm always DIY, but I'm thinking I may need to hire some help here. 😢
Bmw guy back!
Is that your new bimmer?
Soaking those lifters in oil helps prevent dry start