🧰N52 Timing Tool Kit: amzn.to/4eziWjs ✅Read the Full instructions here: bmw-repairs.com/correct-timing-procedure-for-an-bmw-n52-engine 👉Next Video: How To Remove An Engine From A BMW E90 ruclips.net/video/1FNF_jCqvx0/видео.html
I appreciate that Clement, I also learned alot and there was not much information online about how to do it properly so I did my best to make this video as clear as possible, especially since I had the engine out of the car. Harder to do the video when the engine is in the car :). good luck with your engine!
My favorite person in the entire world right now. Would have never taken this job on until I watched a few of your videos and aww man. The best thing I came accord on RUclips. Thanks a million.
Some of the timing chain tools on ebay are junk. I had the same problem with the locking pin. I filed it down a little and that did the job. I also found that the hole for the intake adjuster in the front timing plate was mispositioned so no matter where I rotated it to, the tab would not go into the hole. Again, I had to use a small round file and remove enough material for the tab to enter the hole. I could never really sure if the timing was 100% right but the engine runs fine so I guess it was ok in the end.
Yes, I checked the timing on 3 different occasions to triple check everything was fine before I put the engine back in. The tools were okay and I had to force the locking pin/wiggle it until it worked.
Trying my best. When I was learning and searching for videos, they didn't make it so clear so I tried to make a in depth video to explain and show everything. I hope the info is clear enough can help people fix their n52s
Hey I’m very interested in your project.I’m wiling to bye the same car as yours , and it has the same issue.It’s burning a lot of oil,but it’s at a good price.Can’t wait to see this engine running again and not burning oil.
Great job. I am right at the start of the journey. Our E90 325i snapped the timing chain when pulling from the lights yesterday. By the time we realised what was happening, the engine had grenaded itself. Piston 2 is completely missing. Cylinder scoured horribly. I need to tear it down to see if it’s worth trying to sleeve it or to rather buy a used engine and stick it in.
Don’t sleeve it. It will be a waste of money and the engine will fail again. Alusil blocks if badly scored are just junk unfortunately. You’re better off with a used engine IMO
I sold my E91 325i with it's oil consumption problems and went back to an E46. I think part of the problem was a leaking sump gasket in my case, an issue I wasn't up for solving.
Great video man didn't have the vanos locking tool on mine makes sense why ibe been pulling my hair out over a missfire. 2 question what is the purpose of locking the flywheel And also can these engine's be timed in the car?
Locking the flywheel puts the bottom end at TDC. Then you use the timing tool to lock the cams, that way the bottom end and too end at times. You can do this in the car 👍🏼
Hello, thank you for your explanation. After the piston top dead center, the two camshafts will see the QR code pointing upward. How do you judge the compression top dead center and exhaust top dead center?
Hey, do you know anything about those 2 little microfilters that screw into the side of the cylinder head? I pulled them out and cleaned them...but I don't remember if they screw all the way down inside. Looks sort of off to me.
I have a n52 that blows white smoke I think it my valve stem seals because it’s off and on I wanna know what’s all the bolts torque to? Im going to try and rip my engine apart also
I'm a little lost. I torqued down and did the 180° on the cam gear bolts, and when i go to spin the block, the cam gear plate on the exhuast side stays in place and the rest of the gear moves? What have i done wrong, or what is going on?
I pulled the valve cover and noticed the bolt that goes in the middle of the intake vanoss gear was snapped. I was able to get both pieces out and got new ones. One problem is the the QR code for the intake cam is straight up, but the QR code for the exhaust came is 90 degrees to the left. What do i do? Am i able to rotate the exhaust cam to make the QR code straight up, then start the whole timing process?
Do you have to push the lock pin all the way way in? Mine is half inch away and I can’t turn the engine anymore by hand. So I assume it is correctly locked on the flywheel?
It should go all the way in but normally theres a bunch of grime in the way, just be careful that it IS properly locked in place. Is your engine in the car?
Yes. Thanks for your reply. Engine is in the car. I sprayed some lube so the pin moves nicely. I can also hear a plonk/clunk when moving the pin back and forth as it hits the metal plate. Sounds metallic like two metal parts hitting each other. I can definitely not turn the engine by hand anymore. The issue I’m facing now is that the camshafts are not straight up with QR code. They are slightly tilted clockwise so the timing tool does not fit correctly. Should I turn both by hand into timing tool position?
I didnt have to remove my vanos . All i had to do was get my engine to TDC and lock in the pin with the flywheel and its all timed ? Do i need to do something with the vanos locking tool now ?
what are you trying to fix? if you are taking out camshafts, lock the bottom end and remove the cams, but when you retime everything, you will need the vanos locking tool to make sure everything is aligned again
Timing Jumped , im just tryna to Retime everything i got the Engine Locked at TDC at this point and put the vanos locking tool in place that i bought from your description . Im just trying to figure out what to do now .
Im getting 60psi frm every cylinder tested on my 328xi e92 my ppl are saying it’s the timing on the engine .. because I put in a new 54k engine in wit new parts but still a crank no start do you think it’s the timing as well ?
Hi, It is necessary that the two camshafts have the QR code of indicator in TDC cyl 1? Mine is wedged on the flywheel but only one camshaft has the QR code the other is opposite and does not seem to be stalled. The engine does not start. Thanks
@@buildanddrive I checked well, it is in the right hole, I removed the oil pan and I folded the plate between the gearbox and the engine and I was able to check, for information the engine is in the car and I had the famous problem of the serpentine belt sucked, after second check, the exhaust camshaft is well wedged and the intake not at all, but the holes of the vanos are on the left side, I will send you a private message with the photos
Hey, I had a question about re-timing when starting from scratch (I.e rebuilding) would you make sure that the psiton is at tdc then turn the cams individually so that the qr codes are facing up and lock in or would you do the cams first? Thanks
From scratch, first lock the bottom end to TDC with the pin in the flywheel, then attach the cylinder head and cams, lock them in place. Then you know your bottom end and top are both correct. Then you can slide the timing chain in. (If you're doing it that way)
Then the you need to go through this entire timing procedure, lock the bottom end. Lock the top. Rotate the cam to the correct location, lock that in place and put the cam gears / chain back on. Please follow the video precisely.
Hey man , recently did valve cover and oil filter housing gaskets on my 2010 528xi . She started right up after the job . Came out the next day and had a crank no start issue and couldn’t get her to start up I read codes and had a p0016 code . Replaced all camshaft position sensors and the crankshaft position sensors and still have a crank no start , I also cleaned up the Vanos solenoids and still only crank . I’m basically down to maybe a stretched timing chain or timing slightly out of adjustment . Would it be best to just get the timing tool kit you have linked and follow the steps in your video or could it be something else ? And if I did go the timing route would I HAVE to remove the intake/exhaust sprockets & timing chain tensioner or could I just get to TDC and continue the procedure without removing anything ? Sorry for the paragraph but I’m just frustrated at this point and really would appreciate your help ! Thank you in advance brother .
Could be many things... Timing chain snapped and got stuck, bearings overheated and seized, piston rod broke, vaccum pump seized, clutch release or pressure plate broke, transmission or gear broke....
Hi sorry to bother. I recently bought a 2011 328 with the N51. The adjusters look like the front of yours in the video, and the backs not show the heads of the bolts, they show a black backing plate. Everywhere I look my adjusters look different, is it possible my car has the wrong adjusters on it?
Vanos sprockets went out on my n52 (192,000) :/ the kit is 500+ dollars, I think the right move would be to replace the engine with a less used n52. Oh and it started to leak from the oil pan and valve cover gasket lol
I had the same dilemma, if the vanos sprockets broke... Did the piston hit a valve? Then I would recommend replacing the engine. Otherwise everything is repairable. Check the oil pan bolts to see if they are loose.
Anyone know what could be causing me issues. I timed and torqued everything. When turning by hand, sometimes the vanos gears are like jumping and not smoothly rotating as one. After 10 rotations the intake cam is not aligned anymore. And also before, the impulse wheels were not matching up at TDC anymore.
I thought the gears clicking around also was a problem but it's just because there is no oil pressure in them. If you have timed them properly, it should be ok.
@@buildanddrive my issue was me. I was turning the crank counter clockwise to get TDC lined up and that was moving the cam etc. I didn't know cam and and vanos gear can move independently depending on how much oil pressure the vanos sensor is sending. Am I correct? At TDC with crankshaft locked, I should be able to tune the intake camshaft by itself with a wrench?
***Chief, *** ***QUESTION pls?*** 2011 328i xDrive N51 IL6. Car died on idle in my garage. Valve Cover removed. The Timing Chain is intact and tight. *the game plan is to remove/replace the Exhaust Vanos Sprocket.* Because the bolt-heads are broke/sheared. I bought the *Camshaft Locking Tool* to be installed. I also bought a new Exhaust Vanos Sprocket from FCP. ***Now question is… Do I really have to lock the ‘flywheel’ under the starter area?**** Or, the Camshaft Locking Tool is good enough to hold the engine so I can remove and replace the Exhaust Vanos Sprocket? I just do not wanna do extra work If I Don’t Have To. Thank you 🙏 chief, I hope you read this message.
If you are very careful and dont move anything, you can do it that way. The moment you move something, the chain falls etc, you will need to lock the flywheel and start over again to make sure you are at TDC
@@buildanddrive thank you for the time to reply. I was actually able to lock the flywheel and installed Camshaft locking Tool in place! Now, time to remove and replace the Exhaust and Intake Vanos. What is the next step? Should I loosen the 16mm Vanos Bolt or the Tensioner 1st? Please advise
I've been trying to get my n52 time correctly for the past 10 days I use the exact same kit you were using and every single time I get Cam inlet and cam outlet not synchronized and the vehicle won't start or if it does it runs rough, every time I take the engine back apart and put all the timing stuff back on before removing the tensioner it lines up perfectly I don't know what I'm doing wrong. New sensors for cam installed if that helps and there getting power.
Just did this same job on my N52. My vanos adjusters also are clicking like yours did there at they end when spinning the engine over by hand. Did you ever find out of this was "normal"? I'm guessing it's because no oil pressure...
Yes this clicking is normal until it gets oil pressure into the vanos system. I heard it click (it felt more like a "snap") which scared the crap out of me. I suggest doing gentle pulls 50% throttle to get oil into the system
@@buildanddrive i had my engine upside down cuz i dropped a small tiny peice broke off of my cheap ass boroscope but i got it out and a good amount oil came down from my head while it was upside down. Could the cam ticking be just because i had all the oil drain out from the head? Mine sounds exactly like urs in this video when u hand crank the engine.
I have a question on the flywheel, is there a reason to believe that it can be installed the wrong way. I completely forgot to check it when the engine was apart, am trying to do the timing and I cannot locate the small hole to lock it at TDC. It goes in a bigger hole when Cyl 1 is all the way up, and engine still moves left and right. It's really annoying, the flywheel has a guide I remember that so I don't see how it can go in a different position. Thanks in advance for your help.
Ok I actually got the the little stopper bar to slide in all the way, the trick was to keep it pressed while turning the engine and it finally popped in. Very little part on it went in less than 1/2 inch. At this point it's done
Yes, the whole sometime has some grime in in it and can stick. I have to clean mine out, which is easy to do if the engine is out. Unfortunately when the engine is in, I've seen quite a few people struggle to find the right spot and this can lead to bad timing of the engine. So be careful!
For sure but doing it yesterday I pressed it and it went in what I thought was all the way. Cliser look revealed that there was 1/2 inch out so I kept my hand on it pressing, and when I twisted the crankshaft I felt something first but passed it. I twisted back slower and it went right in. Trick is to keep hand on it pressing on it and it is easy that way.
@@buildanddrive One more question on the tensioner the book mentions an O-ring which supposedly doesn't come from the factory with the tensioner, and I cannot see a place for it. There is a gasket ring11317534251 which looks like a washer but made to seal. Any recollection on that?
I took off my sprocket. Is there a specific way of putting it back on the cam because there is a notch on the sprocket or should I just put it on anyway and bolt it?
You need to retime the engine. I would follow the instructions in the video to lock the cams and then you can bolt up the sprocket properly and get the front vanos gear correctly installed too.
@@buildanddrive I locked the cams and flywheel. I took off one of the cam sprockets. I’m trying to put it back together but I am wondering if i have to put the sprocket a certain way because it has a notch in it?
No, the sprocket can go in any way. The timing of the cam happens at camshaft (which is already locked) and at the front metal vanos piece which you will have to lock as well before tightening the bolt
Timing chain is supposedly good for the lifetime of the engine but in reality lifetime generally has a finite meaning. I'd be more inclined to think that the chain guides would be the first to go. If it were me, I'd probably look to replace the chain (plus guides/tensioner) by 200k miles/ 320k km.
Timing chains are good for the life of the car unless they stretch or get damaged, especially the timing guides and wear out and break. I would check your timing chain tensioner to see it isn't clogged up with gunk and still operating as usual. It is under oil pressure so normally they don't fail unless your engine is sludged. If this fails your chain can jump a tooth and cause all kind of problems.
🧰N52 Timing Tool Kit: amzn.to/4eziWjs
✅Read the Full instructions here: bmw-repairs.com/correct-timing-procedure-for-an-bmw-n52-engine
👉Next Video: How To Remove An Engine From A BMW E90 ruclips.net/video/1FNF_jCqvx0/видео.html
Very informative and thank you for a well descriptive slowly documented process
Learnt so much on how to time this engine.
Keep it up...
I appreciate that Clement, I also learned alot and there was not much information online about how to do it properly so I did my best to make this video as clear as possible, especially since I had the engine out of the car. Harder to do the video when the engine is in the car :). good luck with your engine!
My favorite person in the entire world right now. Would have never taken this job on until I watched a few of your videos and aww man. The best thing I came accord on RUclips. Thanks a million.
I really appreciate it 😊. Glad the videos could help.
You're a braver man than I am .... Congratz for getting this far. I'm looking forward to it starting up the first time!
Thanks Brian! I don't know if "brave" is the right word to use but I'll take 😂😂😂🙏🏼
this looks simple, BMW has rly made it easier
Good work mate ! Need more friends like you
Thank you brother 👍🏽👍🏽
You're welcome, hope the video was helpful. 💪🏽
Hi, you did a good job, and explain yourself well. I would like to know if it's the same procedure for n55 engines
Yes it should be
Good job 👍✋
Thanks 😊
Some of the timing chain tools on ebay are junk. I had the same problem with the locking pin. I filed it down a little and that did the job. I also found that the hole for the intake adjuster in the front timing plate was mispositioned so no matter where I rotated it to, the tab would not go into the hole. Again, I had to use a small round file and remove enough material for the tab to enter the hole. I could never really sure if the timing was 100% right but the engine runs fine so I guess it was ok in the end.
Yes, I checked the timing on 3 different occasions to triple check everything was fine before I put the engine back in. The tools were okay and I had to force the locking pin/wiggle it until it worked.
👍 👍 👍 wat I need is valve stem seals replacement mecanic around here for worth tx wanna change my engine for an arm end length where you located
Thenks❤👌
Good luck with your repair!
I feelt that ' I'm so tired'
Thanks for the time and effort you put on this video dude.
Trying my best. When I was learning and searching for videos, they didn't make it so clear so I tried to make a in depth video to explain and show everything. I hope the info is clear enough can help people fix their n52s
Hey I’m very interested in your project.I’m wiling to bye the same car as yours , and it has the same issue.It’s burning a lot of oil,but it’s at a good price.Can’t wait to see this engine running again and not burning oil.
Thanks! Just buy the n52b30 engine. They normally did not burn oil after 2008
Great job. I am right at the start of the journey. Our E90 325i snapped the timing chain when pulling from the lights yesterday. By the time we realised what was happening, the engine had grenaded itself. Piston 2 is completely missing. Cylinder scoured horribly. I need to tear it down to see if it’s worth trying to sleeve it or to rather buy a used engine and stick it in.
Don’t sleeve it. It will be a waste of money and the engine will fail again. Alusil blocks if badly scored are just junk unfortunately. You’re better off with a used engine IMO
Get a newer used n52b30 so you can upgrade on power and have less oil conspumtion.
I sold my E91 325i with it's oil consumption problems and went back to an E46. I think part of the problem was a leaking sump gasket in my case, an issue I wasn't up for solving.
I also had a oil leak on the sump gasket and even after rebuilding the engine... I am still chasing leaks. This engine is not really well designed lol
Great video man didn't have the vanos locking tool on mine makes sense why ibe been pulling my hair out over a missfire. 2 question what is the purpose of locking the flywheel
And also can these engine's be timed in the car?
Locking the flywheel puts the bottom end at TDC. Then you use the timing tool to lock the cams, that way the bottom end and too end at times. You can do this in the car 👍🏼
Hi happy New year to you please i want to know if the engine n20 timming tools is the same with n52? Thanks !!
No, I don't think they are the same
I guees you missed light ..low illumination everything else amazing. Thanks for sharing .
Yep. Should have bought some lights. Have one now. Would have made my own work easier to see too 😂
Solid walkthrough! Came across this while doing some researching on a VANOS job I have to do this week.
Appreciated!
Hello: How many Newtons is the screw that fixes the timing gear locked at?
Check at @14:50 27 Newton meters and then 180 degrees
Hello, thank you for your explanation. After the piston top dead center, the two camshafts will see the QR code pointing upward. How do you judge the compression top dead center and exhaust top dead center?
Hey, do you know anything about those 2 little microfilters that screw into the side of the cylinder head? I pulled them out and cleaned them...but I don't remember if they screw all the way down inside. Looks sort of off to me.
they screw in all the way down so the bolt head is just sitting past the hole itself by a little bit inside the cylinder head.
I have a n52 that blows white smoke I think it my valve stem seals because it’s off and on I wanna know what’s all the bolts torque to? Im going to try and rip my engine apart also
Yes, this sounds normal oil burning for an n52, what oil consumption does you engine have?
I'm a little lost. I torqued down and did the 180° on the cam gear bolts, and when i go to spin the block, the cam gear plate on the exhuast side stays in place and the rest of the gear moves? What have i done wrong, or what is going on?
Maybe the spring inside is broken. Or your camshaft is snapped. That's very weird. Can you send me a video?
What's the chain tensioner tool supposed to be tightened down to
Hold the chain in place to prevent it from slacking or skipping a tooth on the bottom sprocket.
I pulled the valve cover and noticed the bolt that goes in the middle of the intake vanoss gear was snapped. I was able to get both pieces out and got new ones. One problem is the the QR code for the intake cam is straight up, but the QR code for the exhaust came is 90 degrees to the left. What do i do? Am i able to rotate the exhaust cam to make the QR code straight up, then start the whole timing process?
Can you send me a video on IG? Are you sure you are at TDC? If it's off there may be other problems like a stretched chain, bad timing tensioner etc.
Do you have to push the lock pin all the way way in? Mine is half inch away and I can’t turn the engine anymore by hand. So I assume it is correctly locked on the flywheel?
It should go all the way in but normally theres a bunch of grime in the way, just be careful that it IS properly locked in place. Is your engine in the car?
Yes. Thanks for your reply. Engine is in the car. I sprayed some lube so the pin moves nicely. I can also hear a plonk/clunk when moving the pin back and forth as it hits the metal plate. Sounds metallic like two metal parts hitting each other. I can definitely not turn the engine by hand anymore.
The issue I’m facing now is that the camshafts are not straight up with QR code. They are slightly tilted clockwise so the timing tool does not fit correctly. Should I turn both by hand into timing tool position?
I didnt have to remove my vanos . All i had to do was get my engine to TDC and lock in the pin with the flywheel and its all timed ? Do i need to do something with the vanos locking tool now ?
what are you trying to fix? if you are taking out camshafts, lock the bottom end and remove the cams, but when you retime everything, you will need the vanos locking tool to make sure everything is aligned again
Timing Jumped , im just tryna to Retime everything i got the Engine Locked at TDC at this point and put the vanos locking tool in place that i bought from your description . Im just trying to figure out what to do now .
Vanos gears bolt M10x94 you said 20 pounds then 180* but I keep finding 20Nm then 180* HELP!!!! Thnx 4 your videos they are awesome
Vanos gear bolt is 20nm and then 180 degree turn.
Im getting 60psi frm every cylinder tested on my 328xi e92 my ppl are saying it’s the timing on the engine .. because I put in a new 54k engine in wit new parts but still a crank no start do you think it’s the timing as well ?
If it is every cylinder then it could be the timing. Check my timing video on how to do it.
Hi, It is necessary that the two camshafts have the QR code of indicator in TDC cyl 1? Mine is wedged on the flywheel but only one camshaft has the QR code the other is opposite and does not seem to be stalled.
The engine does not start.
Thanks
Double check your crank pin is in the correct hole. The first 2 times I tried, it was not correctly in the hole. Is the engine jn the car?
@@buildanddrive I checked well, it is in the right hole, I removed the oil pan and I folded the plate between the gearbox and the engine and I was able to check, for information the engine is in the car and I had the famous problem of the serpentine belt sucked, after second check, the exhaust camshaft is well wedged and the intake not at all, but the holes of the vanos are on the left side, I will send you a private message with the photos
Hey, I had a question about re-timing when starting from scratch (I.e rebuilding) would you make sure that the psiton is at tdc then turn the cams individually so that the qr codes are facing up and lock in or would you do the cams first? Thanks
From scratch, first lock the bottom end to TDC with the pin in the flywheel, then attach the cylinder head and cams, lock them in place. Then you know your bottom end and top are both correct. Then you can slide the timing chain in. (If you're doing it that way)
@@buildanddrive that makes sense, thanks!
@@Cars10223 good luck with your timing. I had to do mine 3 times to get it right 👍🏽
So if I have my car at tdc but the QR codes don’t match how can I fix that? Like one is on the top but the other one isn’t
Then the you need to go through this entire timing procedure, lock the bottom end. Lock the top. Rotate the cam to the correct location, lock that in place and put the cam gears / chain back on. Please follow the video precisely.
Hey man , recently did valve cover and oil filter housing gaskets on my 2010 528xi . She started right up after the job . Came out the next day and had a crank no start issue and couldn’t get her to start up I read codes and had a p0016 code . Replaced all camshaft position sensors and the crankshaft position sensors and still have a crank no start , I also cleaned up the Vanos solenoids and still only crank . I’m basically down to maybe a stretched timing chain or timing slightly out of adjustment . Would it be best to just get the timing tool kit you have linked and follow the steps in your video or could it be something else ? And if I did go the timing route would I HAVE to remove the intake/exhaust sprockets & timing chain tensioner or could I just get to TDC and continue the procedure without removing anything ? Sorry for the paragraph but I’m just frustrated at this point and really would appreciate your help ! Thank you in advance brother .
Also , I did an oil change as well
Him, I think you must have something not plugged in. Is the ground for the coil packs attached to the frame? Do you have fuel pressure?
What are the possible causes of N52 crankshaft not turning?
Could be many things... Timing chain snapped and got stuck, bearings overheated and seized, piston rod broke, vaccum pump seized, clutch release or pressure plate broke, transmission or gear broke....
engine being locked up lol
Hi sorry to bother. I recently bought a 2011 328 with the N51. The adjusters look like the front of yours in the video, and the backs not show the heads of the bolts, they show a black backing plate. Everywhere I look my adjusters look different, is it possible my car has the wrong adjusters on it?
Can you send me a photo on Instagram?
bmw f10 valvetronic system no adjustment possible code help
What is the problem?
dude my n52 that im installing is making that same noise on the exhaust cam when rotating on my engine stand. is that normal?
That is normal.
Vanos sprockets went out on my n52 (192,000) :/ the kit is 500+ dollars, I think the right move would be to replace the engine with a less used n52. Oh and it started to leak from the oil pan and valve cover gasket lol
I had the same dilemma, if the vanos sprockets broke... Did the piston hit a valve? Then I would recommend replacing the engine. Otherwise everything is repairable. Check the oil pan bolts to see if they are loose.
Anyone know what could be causing me issues. I timed and torqued everything. When turning by hand, sometimes the vanos gears are like jumping and not smoothly rotating as one. After 10 rotations the intake cam is not aligned anymore. And also before, the impulse wheels were not matching up at TDC anymore.
I thought the gears clicking around also was a problem but it's just because there is no oil pressure in them. If you have timed them properly, it should be ok.
@@buildanddrive my issue was me. I was turning the crank counter clockwise to get TDC lined up and that was moving the cam etc. I didn't know cam and and vanos gear can move independently depending on how much oil pressure the vanos sensor is sending. Am I correct? At TDC with crankshaft locked, I should be able to tune the intake camshaft by itself with a wrench?
***Chief, ***
***QUESTION pls?***
2011 328i xDrive N51 IL6.
Car died on idle in my garage. Valve Cover removed.
The Timing Chain is intact and tight.
*the game plan is to remove/replace the Exhaust Vanos Sprocket.*
Because the bolt-heads are broke/sheared.
I bought the *Camshaft Locking Tool* to be installed. I also bought a new Exhaust Vanos Sprocket from FCP.
***Now question is… Do I really have to lock the ‘flywheel’ under the starter area?****
Or, the Camshaft Locking Tool is good enough to hold the engine so I can remove and replace the Exhaust Vanos Sprocket?
I just do not wanna do extra work If I Don’t Have To.
Thank you 🙏 chief, I hope you read this message.
If you are very careful and dont move anything, you can do it that way. The moment you move something, the chain falls etc, you will need to lock the flywheel and start over again to make sure you are at TDC
@@buildanddrive thank you for the time to reply. I was actually able to lock the flywheel and installed Camshaft locking Tool in place!
Now, time to remove and replace the Exhaust and Intake Vanos.
What is the next step? Should I loosen the 16mm Vanos Bolt or the Tensioner 1st?
Please advise
So I get code Poo15 and stall on me I did oil change and now I am at lost
Can you do this job with the engine in the car?
Yes
Would bad timing be cause of my hard start? Changed everything fuel spark related. Would have to crank a few times before it idles ok.
What codes are you getting?
@@buildanddrive that's the freaky part no codes at all.
Maybe it's the battery or the starter that's on its way out
@@buildanddrive the batter is new so it might be the starter.
I had a slow start and it turned out to be the starter. It died. Lol
I've been trying to get my n52 time correctly for the past 10 days I use the exact same kit you were using and every single time I get Cam inlet and cam outlet not synchronized and the vehicle won't start or if it does it runs rough, every time I take the engine back apart and put all the timing stuff back on before removing the tensioner it lines up perfectly I don't know what I'm doing wrong. New sensors for cam installed if that helps and there getting power.
Is there a way to double check the flywheel pin is correctly inserted?
@@buildanddrive it is every time it seats till it's flat against the aluminum of the short block, I also pull cylinder 1 and check for tdc
Could you have got your intake and exhaust vanos mixed up?
I double checked they are inside correctly and plugged appropriately
Did you wire up the cam position sensor correctly? And plug in the vanos the right way?
Just did this same job on my N52. My vanos adjusters also are clicking like yours did there at they end when spinning the engine over by hand. Did you ever find out of this was "normal"? I'm guessing it's because no oil pressure...
Yes this clicking is normal until it gets oil pressure into the vanos system. I heard it click (it felt more like a "snap") which scared the crap out of me. I suggest doing gentle pulls 50% throttle to get oil into the system
@@buildanddrive wow thanks for the quick reply! Good to hear 👍
@@colescarkingdom send me some pics of vids on IG of your build
dude literally same here. my n52 on my engine stand does the same thing. was and kinda still worried as fuck
@@buildanddrive i had my engine upside down cuz i dropped a small tiny peice broke off of my cheap ass boroscope but i got it out and a good amount oil came down from my head while it was upside down. Could the cam ticking be just because i had all the oil drain out from the head? Mine sounds exactly like urs in this video when u hand crank the engine.
I have a question on the flywheel, is there a reason to believe that it can be installed the wrong way. I completely forgot to check it when the engine was apart, am trying to do the timing and I cannot locate the small hole to lock it at TDC. It goes in a bigger hole when Cyl 1 is all the way up, and engine still moves left and right. It's really annoying, the flywheel has a guide I remember that so I don't see how it can go in a different position. Thanks in advance for your help.
by the way mine is an N51 engine from 2012 but should be very similar
Ok I actually got the the little stopper bar to slide in all the way, the trick was to keep it pressed while turning the engine and it finally popped in. Very little part on it went in less than 1/2 inch. At this point it's done
Yes, the whole sometime has some grime in in it and can stick. I have to clean mine out, which is easy to do if the engine is out. Unfortunately when the engine is in, I've seen quite a few people struggle to find the right spot and this can lead to bad timing of the engine. So be careful!
For sure but doing it yesterday I pressed it and it went in what I thought was all the way. Cliser look revealed that there was 1/2 inch out so I kept my hand on it pressing, and when I twisted the crankshaft I felt something first but passed it. I twisted back slower and it went right in. Trick is to keep hand on it pressing on it and it is easy that way.
@@buildanddrive One more question on the tensioner the book mentions an O-ring which supposedly doesn't come from the factory with the tensioner, and I cannot see a place for it. There is a gasket ring11317534251 which looks like a washer but made to seal. Any recollection on that?
I took off my sprocket. Is there a specific way of putting it back on the cam because there is a notch on the sprocket or should I just put it on anyway and bolt it?
You need to retime the engine. I would follow the instructions in the video to lock the cams and then you can bolt up the sprocket properly and get the front vanos gear correctly installed too.
@@buildanddrive I locked the cams and flywheel. I took off one of the cam sprockets. I’m trying to put it back together but I am wondering if i have to put the sprocket a certain way because it has a notch in it?
No, the sprocket can go in any way. The timing of the cam happens at camshaft (which is already locked) and at the front metal vanos piece which you will have to lock as well before tightening the bolt
@@buildanddrive can I rotate my engine clockwise and counterclockwise without damaging it?
@@ButteredPeanuts Technically yes, but its better to rotate it clockwise
loosen the chain tensioner
don't let chain hang while rotating crank
Yes. You are correct
Is the BMW n52 engine a interference engine
Yes. It will smash valves if the timing is off 😉
👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌♥️🙏
Thanks!
when i neet to replace timing chain on my n52 he is on 286k km
Timing chain is supposedly good for the lifetime of the engine but in reality lifetime generally has a finite meaning. I'd be more inclined to think that the chain guides would be the first to go. If it were me, I'd probably look to replace the chain (plus guides/tensioner) by 200k miles/ 320k km.
Timing chains are good for the life of the car unless they stretch or get damaged, especially the timing guides and wear out and break. I would check your timing chain tensioner to see it isn't clogged up with gunk and still operating as usual. It is under oil pressure so normally they don't fail unless your engine is sludged. If this fails your chain can jump a tooth and cause all kind of problems.
20 nm not ft lbs
What's the timestamp?
lucky u didnt have to time an m54
Is it tough?
@@buildanddrive N52 looks like an dream, i got an n52 now to so im confident
@@buildanddrive Probably ez for the hands that is used to it, but for me m54 timing was a pain in the ass
I had to re-time my engine 3 times before I felt I got it right 😂
@@buildanddrive same here:D