We had a new one just about like that... just about that year..... reminds me of childhood. Christmas present under the tree... a pine green shiny Tonka steam shovel.
Those toys have enlarged and serviced so many imaginations over many years. Your beautifully restored toys not only bring us joy-they also help restore our memories. Thanks.
Beautiful resto. Had the same steam shovel along with a 56 Ford dump and a grader. Dug, loaded, dumped and graded the side yard of our house for many hours. Thanks for sharing and bringing back some great memories.
Man, what you do is an art form. I can only imagine the fun you have perusing garage sales, estate sales, Ebay etc. looking for old die cast to restore.
Chip, I worked in a de tal office and we took impressions all the time. To get the air bubbles out of the mold of denta-stone mix we used a vibration table. Schein is a big dental tool provider and you can get em cheap there. That will vibrate all the bubbles outta your tread.
47:05 Could it be that the chain that is supposed to release the bottom of the dump is too long, when the arm reaches a certain height? Judging the mechanism, i suppose that once it reaches a certain height, the chain should pull the lever and release the bottom of the dump.
Or the upper tension arms were made a little long which would change the geometry of the bucket release. But the simple solution would be to shorten the bucket release chain as previously mentioned.
To prevent bubbles, put the mold in a vacuum chamber after filling and pump down to as low a pressure as you can get. The air bubbles will expand and break out, and then you can top up as needed, then put into the pressure chamber you use...
@@vicferrari9380it's supposed to push the material to the very edge of the mold, in this case it worked just fine for the underside but since it was not vaccumed beforehand, all the air trapped in the underside corners got pushed to the top and created all those voids
On the bubbles. By going hole to hole you trap air between each hole. I suggest less fill holes and more vent holes. I appreciate your sharing the track process. I've made a mold for a track I haven't found online based on your process and will be injecting it later this week. Thanks for the inspiration.
32:20 To prevent bubbles when Engineers make concrete elements they use to vibrate the fresh concrete using specialized vibrators but at this scale maybe a little DC motor conected to the mold with screws or give the mold a couple of hits with a rubber mallet
The dump seems too snug. Especially when you snapped it back in place. BTW I HAD that toy about 1958 or 9. My 70 year old brain really remembers the dump being quite free opening. Great job!! Thanks for the memories.
I love watching you restoring this classic toys...it is hypnotic. Having your kitty inspect the finished product is a sweet touch...no surprise to me that you love what you do!
TIP TO PREVENT BUBBLES: After filling the mold with resin, rap it on the table-top a few times. This shock will settle the resin in the mold & displace the air pockets. Several "hard" raps should do it. Best regards, Ben
Put the molds in a vertical plane and inject the mold from the bottom. As the inject material rises, it will push the air upward. You can then plug the injection holes after the material comes out holes in that level. Vibration (consider a random orbital sander without abrasive) as you are injecting will help to fill the small voids in the mold.
The issue with the dumping can be solved by shortening the chain attached to the bucket, it should open just before fully extended. I enjoy watching your videos!
The dumping mechanism may not be working as the chain is quite long. Shorten the chain and when the arm is extended it the shortened chain should pull on the mechanism and open it.
The piece that the chain is attached to was put back upside-down. Look at the before and after. That would cause the chain, even if the same length, to not get the tension to open it. 😉👍
Another great video! I am sure that I am not the only one that would appreciate a tour of your shop layout and the tools you use to work your magic. Thank you
Hello, I'm in an industry where we do quite a bit of silicone casting. To prevent the bubbles you should vacuum your mix PRIOR to injection. Inside your HPDE you don't have a draw for the bubbles to escape. Try it next time.
Amazing work! Loved my Tonka toy's as a kid. I used to have a large clam bucket crane you could sit on. To reduce bubbling warm your resin with a torch slightly and they will surface, hopefully through the pour holes.
I wouldn't have the patience in a million years to restore those toys, but it's so satisfying to see you do it...and to know that it'll be perfect when you're done. Thank you! 🐾
Chip, my wife says raise the mold an inch off the surface and drop it several times and the bubbles will rise to the top inside the mold and break. She does this when she is baking a cake. It’s an old baker’s secret
Great job... vacuum instead of pressure for the bubbles. Looks like the chain should open the bucket when the boom extends. So try and shorten the chain. I'm waiting for the tank to be done and the big locomotive.. But I like whatever you do..
Chip, so beautiful! Love the color . Love the tool that lets you create the track. It's so cool. Beaker is so beautiful, love her coloring. Also when you pet her, she looks so solid. So satisfying. Cheers
Awesome job once more, I am very envious of your machinery, certainly helps with the final result. As stated by another viewer, shorten the chain between the bucket flap and boom and I'm sure it will work correctly.
Chip, another great restoration! But the rims should have been orange, like the body! Because of the dirty nature of the work, rims were painted to match the body.
Awesome restoration again Chip! A like at it fabulous! An tip on the rubber tracks to avoid bubbles. Place the filled up template on an vibration plate to remove bubbles out of the rubber tracks. Before u place it in the autoclave. Damn beauty this one!
The air needs a pathway to escape, otherwise it can get caught in corners and overhangs. Design your mold so that there are fine channels between the areas where you notice bubbles forming. This will result in more flash and clean-up, but you'll likely have a better finished product.
To expand on this: Drill small holes wherever there is a pocket for air to get trapped in. In this case, every ridge in the track. When you inject the liquid rubber/plastic, it will come out of the small holes, indicating that all of the air has been forced out. A lot of holes + extra sprues to remove, but a much better result in the end.
I make molds for a living, create small chambers even if not opened to the “outside” but where the pressurized air can be while the resin is curing, good luck 👍🏻
I love the work 'Chip Channel Restorations' does. But when I watch his work I often open a second browser to RUclips and play 'Elevator Music - 1 hour' during his work... make the time just fly by peacefully.
I like so much how you are always using and learning new technics and asking for tips. This video was special to me because my grandfather operated earth moving machines back in the day. Another amazing restoration. Hope the sheep survived that the cat got. I didn't see an I'm okay after he fell.🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Maybe a vacuum tank instead of a pressure tank. I watch the guys who do wood turning with rosin mixed. Sometimes they pressure tank and sometimes they use a vacuum tank to remove air.
Hi Chip,how are you tonight? This build was a fast one not very many parts to it. This is the kind to do when your short on time. Awesome great video! Catch ya on the next one. Peace 🤟❤️ 48:42
I'm a carpenter/roofer, so I apologize ahead of time, if this is a ridiculous question. I'm curious to know how nickling works? I'd also love to know how the degreaser he uses works, and the UV lightning to whiten rubber? I'm fascinated how it makes everything new again, tia!
@@YourHeartsDesires degreaser works by one of the chemicals attracting the oils and another attracting the water . This basically separates the grease making it easier to remove. Nickel plating works because the piece of metal that is connected to the negative electrode will attract the metal out of solution. I've been retired for a while now so I think that the uv light works like a catalyst in speeding up the hydrogen peroxides ability to clean the plastic.
I’m a little late this week, Chip. Can’t get over how refreshed the metal looks with the J-B Weld and the powder coating. I haven’t looked through the comments to see other’s recommendations on the dump issue, but my guess is the chain needs shortened a link or two and the hinge is too tight. Nice to see Beaker heavily featured! Cheers! 👍👍👍
Thanks!
toy's are very special for us . it's emotional to see them brand new again. this is why we enjoy your videos so much.
We had a new one just about like that... just about that year..... reminds me of childhood.
Christmas present under the tree... a pine green shiny Tonka steam shovel.
Did your TONKA TOY look just like this one or was it different?
Those toys have enlarged and serviced so many imaginations over many years. Your beautifully restored toys not only bring us joy-they also help restore our memories. Thanks.
Beautiful resto. Had the same steam shovel along with a 56 Ford dump and a grader. Dug, loaded, dumped and graded the side yard of our house for many hours. Thanks for sharing and bringing back some great memories.
Man, what you do is an art form. I can only imagine the fun you have perusing garage sales, estate sales, Ebay etc. looking for old die cast to restore.
Chip, I worked in a de tal office and we took impressions all the time. To get the air bubbles out of the mold of denta-stone mix we used a vibration table. Schein is a big dental tool provider and you can get em cheap there. That will vibrate all the bubbles outta your tread.
I see you changed the bucket around. Great job.
47:05 Could it be that the chain that is supposed to release the bottom of the dump is too long, when the arm reaches a certain height? Judging the mechanism, i suppose that once it reaches a certain height, the chain should pull the lever and release the bottom of the dump.
Or the upper tension arms were made a little long which would change the geometry of the bucket release. But the simple solution would be to shorten the bucket release chain as previously mentioned.
that's my call-shorten the bucket release chain-and oil/adjust dump mechs.
วงฝใม
ว🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔
To prevent bubbles, put the mold in a vacuum chamber after filling and pump down to as low a pressure as you can get. The air bubbles will expand and break out, and then you can top up as needed, then put into the pressure chamber you use...
I understand the vacuum chamber but what does the pressure pot do?
@@vicferrari9380it's supposed to push the material to the very edge of the mold, in this case it worked just fine for the underside but since it was not vaccumed beforehand, all the air trapped in the underside corners got pushed to the top and created all those voids
Another great job in restoring an old used toy and ready to play with again.
That shovel actually looked happy being the one picked to restore! And afterwards, jubilant and proud...
i love your kitty❤
новый видос, мед на душу, спасибо :) оставлю на потом, буду перед сном смотреть, чтоб хорошие сны снились.
On the bubbles. By going hole to hole you trap air between each hole. I suggest less fill holes and more vent holes. I appreciate your sharing the track process. I've made a mold for a track I haven't found online based on your process and will be injecting it later this week. Thanks for the inspiration.
You need to fill the form from hole to hole in a row, including the one from which the rubber has just come out.
I Vote that the Locomotive be the next restoration!
32:20 To prevent bubbles when Engineers make concrete elements they use to vibrate the fresh concrete using specialized vibrators but at this scale maybe a little DC motor conected to the mold with screws or give the mold a couple of hits with a rubber mallet
The dump seems too snug. Especially when you snapped it back in place. BTW I HAD that toy about 1958 or 9. My 70 year old brain really remembers the dump being quite free opening. Great job!! Thanks for the memories.
My 3yr old son loved every minute of this, as did I. Wonderful work, I'm sure we will be watching many more episodes together👍
That's a cheerful little machine. Great job. Thank you
I love watching you restoring this classic toys...it is hypnotic. Having your kitty inspect the finished product is a sweet touch...no surprise to me that you love what you do!
TIP TO PREVENT BUBBLES: After filling the mold with resin, rap it on the table-top a few times.
This shock will settle the resin in the mold & displace the air pockets.
Several "hard" raps should do it.
Best regards,
Ben
or put it in a pressure pot
@@oges74 ...at negative pressure
I could watchh this all day
Put the molds in a vertical plane and inject the mold from the bottom. As the inject material rises, it will push the air upward. You can then plug the injection holes after the material comes out holes in that level. Vibration (consider a random orbital sander without abrasive) as you are injecting will help to fill the small voids in the mold.
Really looking forward to the steam engine I keep seeing.
My brothers had one just like this. I was 3 when I played with it in the early months of 1958. Such nostalgia!
The issue with the dumping can be solved by shortening the chain attached to the bucket, it should open just before fully extended. I enjoy watching your videos!
I'm thinking the same way 😁
Looks to me like you would need a spring to close it. Maybe.
The dumping mechanism may not be working as the chain is quite long. Shorten the chain and when the arm is extended it the shortened chain should pull on the mechanism and open it.
best guess.
I'd expect that there would also be a spring to pull it back closed.
If you compare the lengths of the chains in the before and after pics, you can see that the new chain is around 4 links too long.
The piece that the chain is attached to was put back upside-down.
Look at the before and after.
That would cause the chain, even if the same length, to not get the tension to open it.
😉👍
Yy
Another great video! I am sure that I am not the only one that would appreciate a tour of your shop layout and the tools you use to work your magic. Thank you
I am always amazed that none of the tabs break when bending them open! Great work!
Those tabs are amazingly stout. I worked on a 62 Tonka Jeep, and getting the tabs open was a challenge.
Love the cat !
Very, very well job. Better made than the factory did.
great job👍👍
Very cool channel 👍
Hello, I'm in an industry where we do quite a bit of silicone casting. To prevent the bubbles you should vacuum your mix PRIOR to injection. Inside your HPDE you don't have a draw for the bubbles to escape. Try it next time.
I love seeing when you make molds for new parts!
Amazing work! Loved my Tonka toy's as a kid. I used to have a large clam bucket crane you could sit on.
To reduce bubbling warm your resin with a torch slightly and they will surface, hopefully through the pour holes.
Fantastic !
Congratulation chip Channel the Fábio and Rafael from Brazil. The best restauration.
Beautiful restoration 🐈 😻 🐈⬛
Beautiful restoration job!!... You turned rust to gold again!!
Looks great.😊
I wouldn't have the patience in a million years to restore those toys, but it's so satisfying to see you do it...and to know that it'll be perfect when you're done. Thank you! 🐾
IT'S GOOD TOO SEE CLASSIC TOYS BEEN RESTORATION THANK YOU SO MUCH I LOVE HOW HE'S TAKING OF THEME I STILL HAVE ALL OF MY TOYS FROM THE 70s
😊 43:22
I love watching these videos to help me fall asleep at night. There's something so relaxing about watching you work
Wow‼️a very nice restoration on that toy. Hope someone can enjoy it again in a sand box. 🇨🇦
Chip, my wife says raise the mold an inch off the surface and drop it several times and the bubbles will rise to the top inside the mold and break. She does this when she is baking a cake. It’s an old baker’s secret
¡Gracias!
Good restoration
Absolutely MInt! The Tonka Steam Shovel never looked this good even when it was brans new back in 1957. Well done Chip!
Great job... vacuum instead of pressure for the bubbles. Looks like the chain should open the bucket when the boom extends. So try and shorten the chain. I'm waiting for the tank to be done and the big locomotive.. But I like whatever you do..
Đđđđllll
I'm OKooiituit iyoh
Chip, so beautiful! Love the color .
Love the tool that lets you create the track. It's so cool.
Beaker is so beautiful, love her coloring. Also when you pet her, she looks so solid. So satisfying.
Cheers
I would love to see the big train engine done....love your work, I've watched others and they don't compare..
would love to see the big train get refurbished,your work is second to none
Every time I see you do the startup of the powder coat gun it reminds me of the giant speaker scene in back to the future.
you did a great job restoring the digger truck.
Good job 👍🏻
great job , I love your cat !
Precioso trabajo. Me gusta mucho el gato y las ovejitas también.
love this!
Well done, sir.
Awesome job once more, I am very envious of your machinery, certainly helps with the final result. As stated by another viewer, shorten the chain between the bucket flap and boom and I'm sure it will work correctly.
Chip, another great restoration! But the rims should have been orange, like the body! Because of the dirty nature of the work, rims were painted to match the body.
Even with the dump not working thats still pretty incredible
The most meticulous attention to detail, and all the right equipment a fantastic job.
If you want to make the dump work, you are supposed to fill it with sheep! No one hammers as fast as you either! Another great restoration.
:)
Awesome restoration again Chip! A like at it fabulous! An tip on the rubber tracks to avoid bubbles. Place the filled up template on an vibration plate to remove bubbles out of the rubber tracks. Before u place it in the autoclave. Damn beauty this one!
Great stuff as always
Just found this channel. Great craftsmanship!!!. Probably already know but shorten the chain from the bucket to the boom.
The air needs a pathway to escape, otherwise it can get caught in corners and overhangs. Design your mold so that there are fine channels between the areas where you notice bubbles forming. This will result in more flash and clean-up, but you'll likely have a better finished product.
TLDR add some sprues.
To expand on this:
Drill small holes wherever there is a pocket for air to get trapped in. In this case, every ridge in the track. When you inject the liquid rubber/plastic, it will come out of the small holes, indicating that all of the air has been forced out. A lot of holes + extra sprues to remove, but a much better result in the end.
Use a vacuum instead of pressure?
The care, attention and craftsmanship is absolutely amazing!!!!!!!!
Very much like this channel always you always get it just like new will always watch your channel Lee
I love the satisfying clicking sound when the parts go easily together…great job!
Awesome job!!! I can hardly wait for the train or the tank!!!
I'm waiting for a blue rope shovel
Beautiful restoration mister professionally restored well done
Tap the form a few times, should get the air bubbles out. Great job , love to watch.
I truly admire your skills and perseverance, congratulations
I make molds for a living, create small chambers even if not opened to the “outside” but where the pressurized air can be while the resin is curing, good luck 👍🏻
There are restoration channels a plenty. Then there's Chip Channel !! Awesome as always.
These were some if tbe COOLEST toys a boy could have in the 50s!!! My late brother, Ray, had quite a few of these Tonka toys
The cat is beautiful than excavator...!
U are doing a great job for bringing back the old toy
I love the work 'Chip Channel Restorations' does. But when I watch his work I often open a second browser to RUclips and play 'Elevator Music - 1 hour' during his work... make the time just fly by peacefully.
Rubber track creation... AMAZING!!!!
Your best work.
I like so much how you are always using and learning new technics and asking for tips. This video was special to me because my grandfather operated earth moving machines back in the day. Another amazing restoration. Hope the sheep survived that the cat got. I didn't see an I'm okay after he fell.🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yet another beautiful restoration. You should either get some display cases or start actioning off your finished products.
Excelente trabajo 👏 👍 💪 👌 como siempre 👏
Nice restoration Chip, great paint job, maybe shorten the chain?
These restorations just keep getting better and better.
Well done!
Maybe a vacuum tank instead of a pressure tank. I watch the guys who do wood turning with rosin mixed. Sometimes they pressure tank and sometimes they use a vacuum tank to remove air.
Another excellent transformation. Love the 'bright orange.
Hi Chip,how are you tonight? This build was a fast one not very many parts to it. This is the kind to do when your short on time. Awesome great video! Catch ya on the next one. Peace 🤟❤️ 48:42
As a retired chemist I love watching the nickel plating .
I'm a carpenter/roofer, so I apologize ahead of time, if this is a ridiculous question. I'm curious to know how nickling works? I'd also love to know how the degreaser he uses works, and the UV lightning to whiten rubber? I'm fascinated how it makes everything new again, tia!
@@YourHeartsDesires degreaser works by one of the chemicals attracting the oils and another attracting the water .
This basically separates the grease making it easier to remove.
Nickel plating works because the piece of metal that is connected to the negative electrode will attract the metal out of solution.
I've been retired for a while now so I think that the uv light works like a catalyst in speeding up the hydrogen peroxides ability to clean the plastic.
😅
@@lynn69jackson Thank you for your reply, it fascinates me how it all works!
Один из немногих каналов по реставрации, который нравится смотреть. С самого начала видео знаю что результат будет отличный
Ddfrs
Great job as always Chip, I hope you restore that locomotive next
Loved the tow truck
That cab is probably the earliest recorded instance of the creeper face.
Amazing video love watching them keep up the good wrok can't Waite see some more videos
After all these years still going strong at Tonka
Nice job. Im restorer from Russia.
I restore toys of the Soviet Union
Absolutely Amazing, Great job, thank you for sharing😁
I’m a little late this week, Chip. Can’t get over how refreshed the metal looks with the J-B Weld and the powder coating. I haven’t looked through the comments to see other’s recommendations on the dump issue, but my guess is the chain needs shortened a link or two and the hinge is too tight. Nice to see Beaker heavily featured! Cheers! 👍👍👍