Thank you Andy from The Garage Did mine today, about three hours all in. The 12mm nuts on the exhaust manifold link were solid so lots of wire brush and plus gas. Rest was clockwork as per video. Clamped radiator hoses so as not to lose too much coolant. Didn't adapt new one, just removed fault codes with ELM 327 and Torque app. So far so good.
Thanks for putting this video up. Just replaced my EGR following your guide. Some great tips in there. My local VW van centre quoted 3 hours labour which would have been £300! I did it quicker with zero experience! If I were closer to you, I'd certainly use you for service work. All I can say is thank you.
Excellent step by step guide, changed mine no problem. Got the replacement part from Amazon £190. Garage was going to drop the engine to replace, so this video saved me ££££'s So many thanks. You look a little like the actor Simon Pegg by the way😁.
Just replaced my EGR & cooler on my T5, using your video. Great help, couldn’t have done it without as I’m not a mechanic so thanks very much 👍(it was still bloody awkward though).
Thank you so much for this video, instruction to remove and replace were spot on. Made the job so much easier. P0401 error - egr insufficient flow. Both sides of the EGR cooler were completely blocked. I soaked it in cheap cellulose thinners (gun wash) the baked on carbon turned to a sludge that was really easy to remove with a length of thick welding wire. Cleaned the inside of the EGR valve with a tooth brush and carb cleaner. Messiest job I have ever done !! Back on now a, revs cleanly, goes like stink and no more error code. £20 worth of cleaning stuff a load off rubber gloves and and afternoons work has just saved me £300 :-)
Philip Smith followed this guide and your tip about the thinners works a treat, let it soak for 20mins and used a bike spoke with a slight bend on the end, (don't tell my daughter, her bikes missing a spoke now🤣) in a drill soon cleaned through the holes, bit of carb cleaner to finish, job done
thanks mate, this helped a lot. i was hesitant to do it myself until i saw your video. did it in 3 hours, easy. cleaned it with oven cleaner, cleaned out the oven cleaner really well, let it dry well and fitted it back. fault 401 disappeared right away at starting the engine. Great video, thank you very much for sharing.
Thanks very much for taking the time to explain. I replaced mine a couple of days ago and it was, for the most part, painless. For anyone else who has not tried this yet I would add- 1 - clamp off the hoses to prevent coolant loss. 2 - get new gaskets (all around) and nuts ( the back pipe where it fits to the manifold ). The Valeo EGR only came with 1 gasket, I needed 3. 3 - remove the angled pipe off the difficult hose once the valve is out rather than just changing over the O ring.
Hi, What size Torx is required for those mounting bolts? T30 on the easy side. I'll need to go tool shopping [drool]. I guess they are all same size torx?
I have a fault code p245700 EGR cooler below efficiency threshold on a 2016 t6 2.0tdi 150ps - also have a faulty EGR temps sensor a fault code - are they linked? Should I be replacing the EGR cooler? Or even the whole EGR?
Is there a test for faulty EGR valve ? Can you pressure test just the Valve? My T5 is using coolant and overheating. The head gasket chemical test passes for coolant dissolved gasses. But an LPG test was also performed and dissolved LPG was found in the coolant. Also no signs of bubbling in the overflow, and no foaming in the oil. So is no. 1 suspect EGR?
Hi I'm thinking of cleaning rather than replacing, but the gasket between the Cooler section and the main valve body isnt part of any set of gaskets that I can find. Even tried my local motor factors. Can you usually re-use the existing or can they be obtained?
Tools required: Long T30 torx bit as shown (absolute minimum length of the thin bit 60mm) T20 torx bit M10 spline bit (male) 12 mm socket 8 mm socket flat bladed screwdriver 2x hose clamping tools hose clip tool (or large pliers) 3/4" drive ratchet, medium extension and wobble bar/elbow plus any 1/4" drive tools for easy access Parts: Valeo EGR valve from Autodoc cost me £200 including delivery (comes with a couple of gaskets) About 500ml of coolant depending on where you clamp the hoses and how much you lose. Penetrating oil (WD40 plus gas etc, I used ACF50 as it was all I had knocking about) Procedure: As video, except: If your 12mm nuts are very rusted on, you can still remove that copper pipe from the EGR side, you need the M10 spline bit and a wobble bar, small/medium extension and a small ratchet. The bolts are 90 degrees to the T30 mounting bolts that you need to locate anyway. Once the EGR is out you have more room to work on the 12m fastenings. With oil and steady pressure mine came off fine and I was able to clean them for reassembly. You don't get the gasket for this connection with the Valeo EGR valve though, as you get the other two. I just refitted the original one. I cleared the code with a cheap code reader, I don't know if the EML will clear itself after a run but I don't think you'll need VCDS unless you've got a lot of faults (I only had P0401). In any case, 3 VIN VCDS is like £200 plus your EGR is still way lower than any garage will quote to do the job. Even removing the more difficult bolts it still took me under 2hrs working very slowly and methodically with a few tools brought home from work. The EGR that came out looked like new but was blocked with black carbon inside. I'm hoping the problem is now solved.
Hi I have the EGR sensor 2 Fault on my 2007 1.9 7H T5 - it runs fine but is very smokey before it warms up - then its fine - runs smooth and fine other wise? could this be the EGR cooler? #
Great video really helped me. Your insight was so helpful. I did take my valve to pieces and 4hrs of cleaning it’s back on and running better. It does take an age with oven cleaner and some small long files to get the carbon out but a cheap solution.
I changed mine yesterday thanks to this video. The only thing I did different was remove the pipe round the back to access bolt. Because I couldn’t on it. I have very little mechanical experience so thank you very much. Just one question. I reset the EML light, do I still need to get it plugged in and formatted?
Hi I am getting smoke coming from the engine Bay Area and my idle will go up do you know if this could do with the egr being blocked? I have no engine management lights on thanks Ryan
Just done this! All good until I dropped one of the T30 Torx bolts into the engine bay, it didn’t hit the floor so it’s lost forever! Now I need to buy a new one, it’s one from the flexi pipe at the front right, anyone know the size?
Ok, i replaced the valve today, spending less than two hours. I just blocked the coolant hose with a proper tool, working out just fine. Thank you so much for this video, saving me lots of money to the workshop. I replaced the cooler with a used one (44k km). Hope it lasts.
Hi just looking at the actuator to the back of egr, what is it for? I tried moving it by hand but its not budging, i can pop it off arm and manually vac pump actuator which operates ok, thanks
The Garage should it be free to move? I removed actuator rod and that moved ok with vac pump,i then tried to move bypass lever by hand but was not budging, thank you for your replie
Do you need to crimp the coolant pipes to stop coolant flowing out when you have removed the pipes? When you reconnect the EGR does coolant flow through or is there an air bubble? Thanks in advance.
You always have to crimp coolant lines, unless you're working at the highest point of the coolant system, because otherwise gravity will pull out large part of the coolant. When you reconnect the coolant lines there will be an air bubble in the system, but that will clear as soon as it gets to the reservoir tank. After driving the car a few kms, you've to top up the coolant.
Andy my 2010 transporter runs rough on idle! Vw said it needs a diesel pump as they say dirty fuel has clogged it,the van runs perfect when warm. Could you please advise fella
Clean your EGR valve, EGR pipe and intake manifold. Also if you've a vacuum actuated EGR valve or EGR cooler valve, check whether they actually hold and react to vacuum, and check whether the solenoid actuating them switched between vacuum and atmospheric pressure.
Great Video thanks for sharing over 4 years ago. Can i ask when you say 'Adapt it back in' Do you mean just follow the VCDS instructions you included in the video to code it in? Sorry just want to know what Adapt back in means. Also did you torque the screws back in or just screw back in firmly? Thanks
Just to confirm: 1)TORQ SIZE - T30 Torx - at least 100mm in length for the back screw (as per the video it has to be a thin shaft - fat shafts will not work pipe in the way) 2)GASKETS You won't need any other gaskets (one comes with units, that is enough) 3)BLEEDING RADIATOR AFTER INSTALL - You will lose roughly 500ml of water for the cooling system. There is no technical way to bleed a T5 this is it.. With the header tank cap off and the system refilled with coolant, i let the engine idle for 5 mins to get it warmish and then held it on a fast idle (1300-1500 rpm). Periodically every 50-60 secs i gave it a fast rev/blip of the throttle. I had a mate stand by the header tank and top it up with coolant as required. I did this for about 20 mins. What you will notice is the coolant level rise and fall as air works its way round and the coolant expands. All the time i have the heater on max heat but only level 1 on the fan (you want it to get as hot as possible and have coolant get in to the heater matrix). Once done and with the engine still idling its worth just going round the hoses and making sure they are all warm. Give them all a good squeeze and try to pump any air through. 4) THERE IS NO TEMPERATURE GUAGE IN T5 very handy thanks VW? The thermostat opens at 68 degrees (roughly) . Buy this trust me they are cheap and awesome www.aliexpress.com/item/Ancel-A202-Car-Driving-Computer-OBD-Speed-Gauge-Water-Temperature-Fuel-Consumption-Voltage-Digital-Meter-Display/32818376875.html?spm=2114.search0604.3.31.7a6fdf74yJYTy9&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10068_10130_10547_319_317_10548_10696_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_538_537_536_10131_10132_10133_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_51,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=f73e2af7-9cf3-4fe2-aba7-ef47bfefe48a-4&algo_pvid=f73e2af7-9cf3-4fe2-aba7-ef47bfefe48a 5)YOU DONT NEED A DIAGNOSTIC TOOL Glow plug light will flash after installation - don't panic go for a drive after checking for water leaks and bleed. After a 10 to 20 minute drive, the engine management system will correct this. 6)TEST DRIVE (take water with you on the drive - check levels every 5min) note my water level did not move. (carry water for the next few weeks just in case) 7) Clean the old one it's messy but worth it see instructions from other people above.
Hey David, did you torque back up the screws when putting new EGR in? If so do you recall what the torque settings are or know where they are to view? Thanks
I did it today, have to restart it a couple of times to get rid of the engine management light but the DPF light also came on - This wasn't on before and has never been on. Did a 20 minute drive and that light cleared too. Cant believe how much of a difference it made to my van, it must have been suffering with the EGR being semi open for a while
@@jeanval9041 Hi. I do believe that you need VCDS to perform the adaptation, but I didn't find out if it MUST be done, and if the new EGR would work without the adaption?
Would it have been possible to repair the spring that was faulty in this unit as a quick fix?, when removing the spring housing, is this replaceable once removed? Thanks in advance for your time! And top video for us vw addicts!
Just finished this be aware of were you get this from dont buy cheap the welding of the braket is a knightmare, your vid did not mention coolant loss thankfully i read the coments no mention of topping up the cooler at the end VW quoted me £500 all in it sounds alot but its not as this is a sod to do my tip is if its not a Valeo or a VW unit do the main unit screws
Thank you Andy from The Garage
Did mine today, about three hours all in. The 12mm nuts on the exhaust manifold link were solid so lots of wire brush and plus gas.
Rest was clockwork as per video.
Clamped radiator hoses so as not to lose too much coolant.
Didn't adapt new one, just removed fault codes with ELM 327 and Torque app.
So far so good.
Kane lives
Thanks for putting this video up. Just replaced my EGR following your guide. Some great tips in there. My local VW van centre quoted 3 hours labour which would have been £300! I did it quicker with zero experience! If I were closer to you, I'd certainly use you for service work. All I can say is thank you.
When you replaced yours, did you have to go through the VCDS test?
@philpass79 i wondered this,i need to replace mine
Yes, I did use vcds
Excellent step by step guide, changed mine no problem. Got the replacement part from Amazon £190. Garage was going to drop the engine to replace, so this video saved me ££££'s So many thanks.
You look a little like the actor Simon Pegg by the way😁.
Just replaced my EGR & cooler on my T5, using your video. Great help, couldn’t have done it without as I’m not a mechanic so thanks very much 👍(it was still bloody awkward though).
Thank you so much for this video, instruction to remove and replace were spot on. Made the job so much easier. P0401 error - egr insufficient flow. Both sides of the EGR cooler were completely blocked. I soaked it in cheap cellulose thinners (gun wash) the baked on carbon turned to a sludge that was really easy to remove with a length of thick welding wire. Cleaned the inside of the EGR valve with a tooth brush and carb cleaner. Messiest job I have ever done !! Back on now a, revs cleanly, goes like stink and no more error code. £20 worth of cleaning stuff a load off rubber gloves and and afternoons work has just saved me £300 :-)
Philip Smith followed this guide and your tip about the thinners works a treat, let it soak for 20mins and used a bike spoke with a slight bend on the end, (don't tell my daughter, her bikes missing a spoke now🤣) in a drill soon cleaned through the holes, bit of carb cleaner to finish, job done
Hi Phil
I'm looking to do this job, what seal did you use between the cooler and egr valve? or just use the old one? many thanks
thanks mate, this helped a lot. i was hesitant to do it myself until i saw your video. did it in 3 hours, easy. cleaned it with
oven cleaner, cleaned out the oven cleaner really well, let it dry well and fitted it back. fault 401 disappeared right away
at starting the engine. Great video, thank you very much for sharing.
Did you need to replace the gasket betweent the cooler section and the main valve body. If so, where did you get that gasket
Very handy video, I have just done mine - saving hundreds on labour.
Thanks a lot!!
Thanks for putting this video up it really helped me do this job myself and was actually not to difficult with your instructions and hints and tips👍🏻
Thanks very much for taking the time to explain. I replaced mine a couple of days ago and it was, for the most part, painless. For anyone else who has not tried this yet I would add-
1 - clamp off the hoses to prevent coolant loss.
2 - get new gaskets (all around) and nuts ( the back pipe where it fits to the manifold ). The Valeo EGR only came with 1 gasket, I needed 3.
3 - remove the angled pipe off the difficult hose once the valve is out rather than just changing over the O ring.
Hi, What size Torx is required for those mounting bolts? T30 on the easy side. I'll need to go tool shopping [drool]. I guess they are all same size torx?
Both the rubber hoses?
@@andrewwilson4402 yes. Clamp them both off.
Which hoses to clamp
Great video! You have saved me a lot of £££'s from what it would have cost me if I had taken it to the garage. A BIG thank you.
I have a fault code p245700 EGR cooler below efficiency threshold on a 2016 t6 2.0tdi 150ps - also have a faulty EGR temps sensor a fault code - are they linked? Should I be replacing the EGR cooler? Or even the whole EGR?
Is there a test for faulty EGR valve ? Can you pressure test just the Valve? My T5 is using coolant and overheating. The head gasket chemical test passes for coolant dissolved gasses. But an LPG test was also performed and dissolved LPG was found in the coolant. Also no signs of bubbling in the overflow, and no foaming in the oil. So is no. 1 suspect EGR?
Hi I'm thinking of cleaning rather than replacing, but the gasket between the Cooler section and the main valve body isnt part of any set of gaskets that I can find. Even tried my local motor factors. Can you usually re-use the existing or can they be obtained?
That man deserves a beer. Thank you.
Great video cheers, swapped mine this morning without adaptation and appears fine.
Tools required:
Long T30 torx bit as shown (absolute minimum length of the thin bit 60mm)
T20 torx bit
M10 spline bit (male)
12 mm socket
8 mm socket
flat bladed screwdriver
2x hose clamping tools
hose clip tool (or large pliers)
3/4" drive ratchet, medium extension and wobble bar/elbow plus any 1/4" drive tools for easy access
Parts:
Valeo EGR valve from Autodoc cost me £200 including delivery (comes with a couple of gaskets)
About 500ml of coolant depending on where you clamp the hoses and how much you lose.
Penetrating oil (WD40 plus gas etc, I used ACF50 as it was all I had knocking about)
Procedure:
As video, except:
If your 12mm nuts are very rusted on, you can still remove that copper pipe from the EGR side, you need the M10 spline bit and a wobble bar, small/medium extension and a small ratchet. The bolts are 90 degrees to the T30 mounting bolts that you need to locate anyway. Once the EGR is out you have more room to work on the 12m fastenings. With oil and steady pressure mine came off fine and I was able to clean them for reassembly. You don't get the gasket for this connection with the Valeo EGR valve though, as you get the other two. I just refitted the original one.
I cleared the code with a cheap code reader, I don't know if the EML will clear itself after a run but I don't think you'll need VCDS unless you've got a lot of faults (I only had P0401). In any case, 3 VIN VCDS is like £200 plus your EGR is still way lower than any garage will quote to do the job. Even removing the more difficult bolts it still took me under 2hrs working very slowly and methodically with a few tools brought home from work. The EGR that came out looked like new but was blocked with black carbon inside. I'm hoping the problem is now solved.
Hi I have the EGR sensor 2 Fault on my 2007 1.9 7H T5 - it runs fine but is very smokey before it warms up - then its fine - runs smooth and fine other wise? could this be the EGR cooler?
#
So what your saying is just replace with new and don't try to clean it ?.
Is there something I cane do to make the new one last longer
180 version, if you swap the cooler out in early mileage are you better protected from the issues on web about heavy oil usage and engine wear?
Great video. Straight to the point. Did it myself and saved a fortune. Thanks a lot
Great video really helped me. Your insight was so helpful. I did take my valve to pieces and 4hrs of cleaning it’s back on and running better. It does take an age with oven cleaner and some small long files to get the carbon out but a cheap solution.
I changed mine yesterday thanks to this video. The only thing I did different was remove the pipe round the back to access bolt. Because I couldn’t on it. I have very little mechanical experience so thank you very much. Just one question. I reset the EML light, do I still need to get it plugged in and formatted?
Your an awesome guy, really appreciate your patience and in depth help.
All done in less than two hours, thank you, saved me a fortune!
Thanks for these video Andy , Kind Regards
Hi I am getting smoke coming from the engine Bay Area and my idle will go up do you know if this could do with the egr being blocked? I have no engine management lights on thanks Ryan
Just done this! All good until I dropped one of the T30 Torx bolts into the engine bay, it didn’t hit the floor so it’s lost forever! Now I need to buy a new one, it’s one from the flexi pipe at the front right, anyone know the size?
Thank You for this video. Gonna swap mine tomorrow
Do you need to empty the engine for coolant before replacing the egr-cooler?
Ok, i replaced the valve today, spending less than two hours. I just blocked the coolant hose with a proper tool, working out just fine. Thank you so much for this video, saving me lots of money to the workshop. I replaced the cooler with a used one (44k km). Hope it lasts.
Which is coolant hose
Hi just looking at the actuator to the back of egr, what is it for? I tried moving it by hand but its not budging, i can pop it off arm and manually vac pump actuator which operates ok, thanks
That is for the EGR COOLER BYPASS which is operated during DPF regeneration
The Garage should it be free to move? I removed actuator rod and that moved ok with vac pump,i then tried to move bypass lever by hand but was not budging, thank you for your replie
Do you need to crimp the coolant pipes to stop coolant flowing out when you have removed the pipes?
When you reconnect the EGR does coolant flow through or is there an air bubble?
Thanks in advance.
You always have to crimp coolant lines, unless you're working at the highest point of the coolant system, because otherwise gravity will pull out large part of the coolant. When you reconnect the coolant lines there will be an air bubble in the system, but that will clear as soon as it gets to the reservoir tank. After driving the car a few kms, you've to top up the coolant.
Andy my 2010 transporter runs rough on idle! Vw said it needs a diesel pump as they say dirty fuel has clogged it,the van runs perfect when warm. Could you please advise fella
Clean your EGR valve, EGR pipe and intake manifold. Also if you've a vacuum actuated EGR valve or EGR cooler valve, check whether they actually hold and react to vacuum, and check whether the solenoid actuating them switched between vacuum and atmospheric pressure.
Awesome video, just saved me a few hundred quid getting one replaced at the garage 😋👌🏻
Great Video thanks for sharing over 4 years ago. Can i ask when you say 'Adapt it back in' Do you mean just follow the VCDS instructions you included in the video to code it in? Sorry just want to know what Adapt back in means. Also did you torque the screws back in or just screw back in firmly? Thanks
screw back in firm and yes just follow the vcds, thats what i mean by adapt.
@@thegarage2269 Nice one thanks for that
excellent video, could you please list the tool sized required to do the job? cheers.
The tips helped greatly. Well explained. Thank you.
un grand merci pour votre vidéo!!!
Bonjour, pourriez me dire si après le changement de la vanne EGR il faut re-initialiser la vanne avec un ordinateur VCDS, merci
How much was the egr vale ?
Just to confirm:
1)TORQ SIZE - T30 Torx - at least 100mm in length for the back screw (as per the video it has to be a thin shaft - fat shafts will not work pipe in the way)
2)GASKETS You won't need any other gaskets (one comes with units, that is enough)
3)BLEEDING RADIATOR AFTER INSTALL - You will lose roughly 500ml of water for the cooling system.
There is no technical way to bleed a T5 this is it..
With the header tank cap off and the system refilled with coolant, i let the engine idle for 5 mins to get it warmish and then held it on a fast idle (1300-1500 rpm). Periodically every 50-60 secs i gave it a fast rev/blip of the throttle. I had a mate stand by the header tank and top it up with coolant as required. I did this for about 20 mins.
What you will notice is the coolant level rise and fall as air works its way round and the coolant expands.
All the time i have the heater on max heat but only level 1 on the fan (you want it to get as hot as possible and have coolant get in to the heater matrix).
Once done and with the engine still idling its worth just going round the hoses and making sure they are all warm. Give them all a good squeeze and try to pump any air through.
4) THERE IS NO TEMPERATURE GUAGE IN T5 very handy thanks VW? The thermostat opens at 68 degrees (roughly) . Buy this trust me they are cheap and awesome
www.aliexpress.com/item/Ancel-A202-Car-Driving-Computer-OBD-Speed-Gauge-Water-Temperature-Fuel-Consumption-Voltage-Digital-Meter-Display/32818376875.html?spm=2114.search0604.3.31.7a6fdf74yJYTy9&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10068_10130_10547_319_317_10548_10696_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_538_537_536_10131_10132_10133_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_51,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=f73e2af7-9cf3-4fe2-aba7-ef47bfefe48a-4&algo_pvid=f73e2af7-9cf3-4fe2-aba7-ef47bfefe48a
5)YOU DONT NEED A DIAGNOSTIC TOOL
Glow plug light will flash after installation - don't panic go for a drive after checking for water leaks and bleed. After a 10 to 20 minute drive, the engine management system will correct this.
6)TEST DRIVE
(take water with you on the drive - check levels every 5min) note my water level did not move. (carry water for the next few weeks just in case)
7) Clean the old one it's messy but worth it see instructions from other people above.
Hey David, did you torque back up the screws when putting new EGR in? If so do you recall what the torque settings are or know where they are to view? Thanks
Attempting mine this weekend🤞
Is it possible to replace it without re programming in the new one?
no idea sorry never tried.
WhiteFallow did you find out if it's possible? I'd also like to know
WhiteFallow i would also really like to know as i am doing it tomorrow without The possibility to reprogram it =/
Well you can let us all know as I'm doing it next week. Although I have a buddy who has a diagnostics computer if not
I did it today, have to restart it a couple of times to get rid of the engine management light but the DPF light also came on - This wasn't on before and has never been on. Did a 20 minute drive and that light cleared too. Cant believe how much of a difference it made to my van, it must have been suffering with the EGR being semi open for a while
Does the adaptation step on VCDS have to be completed?
Hi Patrick did you ever get an answer to your question , in a nutshell do you need an VCDS ?
@@jeanval9041 Hi. I do believe that you need VCDS to perform the adaptation, but I didn't find out if it MUST be done, and if the new EGR would work without the adaption?
Would it have been possible to repair the spring that was faulty in this unit as a quick fix?, when removing the spring housing, is this replaceable once removed?
Thanks in advance for your time! And top video for us vw addicts!
sorry, i have never tried to repair them, we just replace them.
Some good tips from experience thanks 👍
Great video, thank you very much for sharing. Very insightful!
Similar a la VW Amarok?
Thank you. Great video.
Thanks pal
Saved me a few quid 😉
at 2:37 you simply slide the electrical connecor off, i tried it all now, im about to get the hammer are take it off viking style!
Thanks nice job for tomorrow
Thank you so much !!
You help me to save so much money 👍🏻💪🏼
What I can see this guy know what he’s doing
Is it a valeo 700436
Just finished this be aware of were you get this from dont buy cheap the welding of the braket is a knightmare, your vid did not mention coolant loss thankfully i read the coments no mention of topping up the cooler at the end VW quoted me £500 all in it sounds alot but its not as this is a sod to do my tip is if its not a Valeo or a VW unit do the main unit screws
yeah good video, nice and straight forward, well done, cheers
Do you have to drain the coolant ?
neil meakin no you don’t need to drain the coolany
Coolant
Great video!!
Great video! Thanks for sharing, how much was the new part please?
£210
ace thanks for sharing
Top man
Lol literally just seen this van on auto trader