I had two of these brand new, a complete disaster of an engine after having two 174 5 cylinder previously, crap power output, crap egr got rid of all of them at 3yo. Currently have a 204 ps on a 2017 plate from new with 140k miles, 2 egr valves junk, current one grumbling. 1 duo mass flywheel and clutch although clutch not worn at 135k. chipped from new, dropped and uprated suspension, loads of tasteful usable mods, lighting etc. Fully loaded with work stuff, I am keeping it forever and it still looks like new, sportline upgraded highline lwb, I love it to bits. Great vids Guys. P.S. I chipped the second 174 5 Cylinder and it was like lethal weapon two when the turbo spooled up, but the fuel consumption was below 20 mpg and front tyres just melted, happy days.
Got a cfca sportline myself. Fortunately found out about the issues quickly and blanked the egr with a tafmet emulator. 2 years ownership later and 70000 total miles on the vehicle all is well. They're a nice smooth engine when they work well.
Fitted a tafmet egr emulator to my wife's 2.2 tid saab five or six years ago. Never been a problem, still working great. Remember that combustion chamber temperatures can actually be higher without the exhaust gasses acting as a combustion suppressant. Egr not just an emmisions thing.
@@chasevans7171 The factory EGR only operates at two times, initially assist in attaining operating temperatures (when more heats desirable) and later whenever at low loads to reduce NOX formation as a result of excess oxygen in hot exhaust gas. Unlike a petrol engine where EGR increases the total mass of the cylinder charge, diesels control the power by reducing fuel ratio (not of volume of mixture supplied as with most petrol cars). Hence the average cylinder temperature is already lowest when EGR cooler would be utilized, and situations you'd be concerned about heat (such as sustained high load) aren't impacted by the EGR delete. Instead the high load temperatures will be governed by the volume/temperature of input air, alongside the injector duty cycle (if its taking to long to put fuel in, you start to get thermal issues you wouldn't otherwise at that power level).
Great video and mega useful. I bought one knowing it may have an issue. Had it tested, no issue showing. Changed the EGR to be on the safe side, 2 years later, valve 2 + 4 running on 25%. The damage was already done it just wasn't showing yet. Call to VW, luckily they conveniently sell a kit to fix the issue. Essentially resulted in a brand new engine plus anything else that has ever had exhaust gas or oil. Not cheap!
@Pswayder, Was that just your local VW dealer, same issue here and looking at options, what is "Not cheap! if i can ask? and what did you get for it ) thx
My local, trusted garage in Warwickshire, they got onto VW. The kit itself is around £6-7k (plus fitting) if i remember right which includes a new engine and all ancillaries - DPF, EGR, Re-con Turbo - literally everything that had touched oil or exhaust fumes. Doing it this way (and returning the old engine as VW instructed) means you get a 3 year warranty on the new block and bits. If you just change the block - no warranty. Change to a recon engine, that may have the issue, or a part in your existing engine may be a deadly sniper. I'm 12k in on the new engine - all good so far. My old EGR is now a desk tidy in my office. It's called 'The Bastard' @@smithygillson3040
Just got my van back from Darkside, after watching this i was shitting myself the engine would have been junk. Thankfully they checked the compression and all good :) goes much better after the remap cheers guys
My CFCA (2011 model year) was replaced with about 35.000 miles on the clock. Due to absurd oil usage because the cilinder walls had gone. After the whole block was replaced the turbo started acting up, and that turned out to be a vacuum line issue. Now, about 6 years later she still runs fine, though I don’t know if they replaced anything other than the block...
I'm really happy with the EA189 engine. The CFFB in the Jetta is great. It does have the EGR flow problem with the valve but that's an easy fix. Otherwise it runs great
@@niko8638 Basically because with twin turbos, a fairly small engine bay and commercial type demands they are often abused with (long days with heavy loads, towing trailers or lead footed courier use in stop start traffic to name a few), temperatures do get pretty warm, especially with an auto and air conditioning all piling more thermal load into the same air path. Will depend on your climate and use case of course, but in general if your not keeping it totally stock, its worth at least considering. Also unlike EGR delete, a external oil cooler doesn't normally have a large impact on what people think of as the "warmup" time of the engine, since its not a big change in either mass or total cooling present (even before thermostat opens), and the oil temps are only loosely coupled to the block/coolant (reaching an equilibrium that notably higher, but with average in sump remaining cooler than the block for a noticeable time after the engines coolant has reached operating temperature anyway). That said if your going crazy with the size you'll want to make sure you do a longer (or harder) drive once/twice a week to get the oil hot enough to drive moisture out, else add an external water separator (which is what most heavy diesel plant needs to do, as the "Italian tune up" of running it full tilt every now and again is both expensive in fuel/maintenance and frowned upon by occupational workplace safety regulators), but this isn't a change in usage for most van owners anyway (much less anybody who was worried about overheating oil to begin with). Hence for most people the real consideration for adding the cooler is the cost of parts/installation, since a ebay cheapo home job can be a liability, and as much as we all like watching the dark side boys work, they do still need to keep the lights on, so it isn't free.
I am due to pick up a 2013 bitdi 180hp with dsg tomorrow. 122000 miles. It is very clean with a fantastic service record. Drives really well. Should I walk away?
It's hard to say, they're great vans but have their issues. Be prepared for the worst or look at single turbo 2.0 TDIs, these seems to be more reliable and with a remap you get similar power to a stock biturbo
The people responsible for coming up with the laws and regulations that require every car manufacturerer to make engines that are not possible to make, that makes almost every car owner suffer with gigant repair bills, and cars that won't start, or cars that stop in the middle of busy highways, they should be sued. They are responsible for all this mess, as far as I can tell. They seem to be doing it on purpose in order to get everyone to use electrical cars. Well, I know how bad batteries can be, having had an offgrid cabin for many years. The battery quality has gone down too. I was just watching a preowned hybrid car that was for sale. Not because I would ever want to own one, but because it had two solar panels on the roof. To me that is hilarious. If you need solar power to drive a car, you would be in trouble in this country. Here we have had years with eleven months of rain on a daily basis, with no sunlight whatsover. You don't get much solar power from that. Back to the people responsible for all this trouble and these gigantic expenses. They should be held economically responsible for all of this. This has gone too far to say the least. Enough is enough. This madness needs to be stopped as soon as possible.
I replaced a 2.0 CR TDi in a 2015 Caravelle that threw ALL four con rods. I have never seen that before. I asked the customer, a coach operator if it had runaway. He said no, was only doing 50 mph following a coach. Was a DSG model.
Greetings from a Yorkshire guy in Germany, you should look at the videos from redhead Zylinderkopf Technik here in Germany they specialise in the vw engines and do a oil cooler kit for the t6
I think they are more similar to the later CXEB, they have EGR issues but not the same as these. They're a pain too as they're at the back of the engine not the side. Take a look at this video - ruclips.net/video/cNWeJ8rt0bU/видео.html
Hi need help diagnosing a smoke problem in a caravelle 180 bitid When i drive for 10minutes smoke comes from under the bonnet when i open the bonnet it appear to be coming from behind the engine nere the mani fold. Anyone know what it is thanks
Few years back I had a VW Assist patrol (RAC or AA I think) change one of them EGR assemblies on my Transporter at the side of the road. Took him nearly 3 hours. Watching this I’m glad I never kept the van.
Hi, I’ve had a 2011 T32 180 manual for about 7 years. I wasn’t aware of the issues when I bought it however it’s now done 170k and at the minute running okay. I love it and I would like to keep the van long term however to ensure reliability is it worth / cost effective replacing the engine or cut my losses and get rid? If it can be refurbished or replaced is this something you could do?
Hi, nice hair lol and great videos. I'm from Ireland and new to your channel mainly because I'm looking at a van and VW T5 Transporter 2.5 TDI lwb brought me straight to you. I will be honest I don't have much faith in German cars i.e. 2000 Audi V6 (fuel pump), 05 2.5 TDI, BMW 525D (just about every known problem) 07Mini one 1.6 Conv (head gasket and seized solid gearbox), 07 Skoda Superb 2.0 TDI (dm cutch, gearbox), 02 Audi TT Quatro, 08 Mercedes C180 coupe 2.0 (camshaft sprockets, corrosion), every one of these cars scrapped at around 100k as they were uneconomical to fix. All were very well maintained. I have been offered the van I mentioned, it can be described as immaculate, inside cab, inside the rear, engine bay, underneath and not a dent or scratch on its silver paintwork and with 145k miles apparently the cams are driven by gear, it has not been tidied for sale but always kept that way. I know the guy who owns it well and he looked after it like a baby and is only selling as unfortunately he is at the end of life with terminal cancer. He is looking £7.5 k rightly trying to get as much as he can for his partner. As you can imagine I am nervous regarding German vehicles, I cant expect you to say buy it and know problems can't be foreseen and obviously no reflection on your advice if it goes wrong. The bit of research I have done is many of these vans have over 200k without serious problems, nut there appears to be many horror stories. My question is is the right van to buy espesially with this engine or could I be walking into another mony pit. Your opinion would be very valuable. Thanks.
If it's been well looked after and continues to be, then it shouldn't be horrendous. However, with most transporters, if things do go wrong, it can get very pricey
When did this engine go out of production? I’ve just bought a 2017 VW Crafter with the twin turbo 177 engine with 82,000 on the clock. The dpf lights just come on? Am I safe or is it possibly a problem like this?
What about 2013 vw Caddy 2.0 tdi 62kw 6 speed that I buy it has 115.000km and it was special made for Austria Post that's why it has only 62 kW and same golf 6 has 103kw
@DarksideDevelopments I think I'll drive another before I go back and recheck if it's still available was thinking it might be tired idk generally seemed good but
Bore wash . The aluminium gets in polishes the cylinder walls an rings . the cylinder doesn't seal , that gives you poor compression. The mix shoots in to the sump past the rings . Creates to much crank case pressure, oil leaks , oil burning .
Can you delete egr completely in this engine or is that not possible or is there complications from doing so? My engine tuner says deleting egr on any VW stops dpf regen properly?
Pedro Guerreiro I run a fleet of vehicles and the VW/Skoda diesels I have egr deleted mainly due to constant issues but I do an active regen on dpf as find spot levels high. They never fail mot as emissions are same with or without egr as all still have cat and dpf. Good blast up road prior to mot and good quality fuel.
This is precisely what happened to my Caravelle 2012 CFCA engine. I had my engine repaired: major engine restoration - 4 new pistons, new EGR Cooler (D Suffix), 4 new con rods (used), 8 x new bearings, 4 new jets, head gasket, coolant, 5w30 C3 synthetic oil (£2000). It's been running great for 10,000 miles since. But now I have a low oil pressure warning. But it seems to be something of a red herring as no mechanical faults or noises can be found, oil level fine, temperature normal and the car is still running great. I get an intermittent alert for 5s at a time. It would seem to be wiring I also get intermittent electric sliding door bouncing and a couple of rear circulation issues reported on VCDS. So it looks like some ageing to the electrical components is my next battlefield.... (if anyone can offer any tips I'd really welcome them). I've had some other fun with it: New dual mass flywheel, oil cooler, seal rings, o/s engine mount, wet DSG clutch, DSG oil, Spigot bearing (that was missing)! New CV joint (inner and outer, driver's side) and rear wishbone. Oil sump check, rear n/s wheel bearing, new oil pump and shaft, cambelt change.
I have the same problem with the oil lamp, only two seconds and gone. I dont know whats happend. you resolve the problem? Where is the place on that engine for the oil pressure switch? Thanks anyway
Ive been hunting a decent vw transporter with a dsg box for ages and while there’s so many different engines and power outputs. i want to ask anyone’s opinion whats the best option of van to consider and should I avoid higher mileages.thank you
EGR Blanking with DPF left in place? I notice you advise against this on your site but other people offer blanking+remap and leave DPF as it is. Or fit Tafmet and DPF still in place any thoughts on this please?
I will beg to differ on this... egr-only delete, force a dpf regen to bring up dash light, drive as required until light goes out... Does that not mean it works?
Shurly if anyone has got that number on the bad part list without any symptoms ,then they should get it changed anyway to your proposed part before it becomes an issue, am i wright.
Hi I’m about to complete a purchase for a 2017 4motion 204,manual LWB it’s only done 39 k and a turbo was replaced at Vw at 30k Really like the high spec on the van and on test drive it is very tight and pulls nicely What further checks or advice would you give me regarding the engine, not sure if this is a CFCA etc ? I was hoping to tune it aswell only as we will be towing a large caravan with it all over uk and Europe Thanks Ant
So that will be the CXEB, and we've been seeing a fair few 2016/17 models coming into our workshop with faulty pistons/rings damaging the engines and having to get replacements. There are a fair few posts on our facebook about the issue. You can also drop us an email to sales@darksidedevelopments.co.uk with reg/vin and we can discuss any issues and tuning if applicable
In the vid it’s a suffix D which you say is ok but looks clogged up and causing smooth cylinders in the video, is that engine kaput in the video? Was just about to buy a 2015 180 BiTurbo but think am better swerving altogether
Believe this engine came in the T6's also. The CFCA's have EGR issues and CXEB's have had issues with the rings and pistons causing premature engine wear
It's not really the year, it's the engine code that's the problem. CFCA's have the most issues. Other than that as long as they've been looked after, should be alright
Thanks for the video guys. Just been looking at a 62 plate 180 70k miles on the clock and has the 512 A EGR should I walk away? I used to be a mechanic by trade and the vehicle is very cheap trade deal drives and starts perfectly. Thanks guys.
Hey guys! What do you think about 8v bmm engine? Any common problems you guys face? And is there anything specific about their maintenance to keep in mind? Thank you for your time!
Seems to be a common issue in modern diesel engines. MAN Trucks championed this solution in their marketing to meet Euro 5 emissions about 10 years ago, being I’m sure the only heavy truck manufacturer at that time not having to go down the SCR “Ad Blue” route. The results were the same a vehicle we had needed two engines in less than 3 years! EGR as a engineering concept is just shite, when you get to see the innards as shown here you know the reason why!
@@DarksideDevelopments ok, i have a customers car with all the symtoms mentioned in the video. Did a egr off but i didn't install blanking plates right away and still had the same issues. Installed blanking plates for the egr and car runs fine now, but feels like it's down on power so was thinking maybe he has a cracked egr cooler and water has worn the cylinder to a lower compression.
I've asked my mate about this engine. I trust him, we've been mates since we were in highschool. He said it's the best engine he knows. He will make anyone a flat rate offer with warranty, sight unseen. To rebuild the engine 🙈.
@@ryanp6138 We were on a ride, he walks up to a van making an open offer: "nice van: leather, doublecab, double sliding doors dsg, 4motion! *When* your engine fails call my company, I'll rebuild the engine for this price" 🤣🤣
Hello. I have a t5 180 bitdi 2013 and a T5 2017 bitdi 204. The 180 has just broke his engine and the 204 has oil consumption and will break like the 180... It’s a real problem! Vw makes shit from few years... a shame !
Great video, but could you tell me if a 2lt tdi skoda kodiaq vrs 245bhp engine block is that the same block as the 2lt tdi 190bhp engine? Theres a kodiaq with a smashed sump the engine is destroyed, i assume so,was looking to buy an engine to replace the damaged one
Yeah, they are similar to CUNA/CUPA. They struggle a bit over 300bhp though. Got a blog here on tuning them! www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/Blog/mqb-platform-ea288-engine-tuning-184-cuna-cupa/
Hi !i have Amarok 2.0 engine with 163 hp . How much power do you think could be made of it without getting a motorcycle crash? Im waiting your answer. Have a good day!
Did the engine made a kinda turbo pipe leaking? Because i know someone who has one it has no smoke, seems to have pretty much all the power but at vw after months of trying what is that noise they told him that basically the engine is dead
Just watched your video. Thanks for sharing. I'm in the process of possibly ordering supposedly one of the last transporter 6.1's tdi450 4motion vans and then convert into a camper. After researching the web I am now concerned about these engines. Are you getting issues with the later engines? Thanks.
@@DarksideDevelopments Can we swap the 140Hp version of Jetta ( CLCB) ECU with Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI (CLCA) ... Both have same injectors and turbo but CLCA is detuned to 110Hp and CLCB comes with 140Hp from factory
How much is the cost for rebuilding this engine? Parts and maybe some machining. I can do the rest for my self. Under 2000 euro ? I want a multivan with DSG and 4 motion so I have no other engine choice
@@DarksideDevelopments i found 0.5mm oversize pistons (€300), egr-cooler (€650), rebuildkit with Berings, timingbelt etc (€500) And a local machineshop do the Boeing for €300 So ithink I can make it for under 2K
@@DarksideDevelopments ive had a compression test done. The results are as follows, no1 is 385psi, no2 is 420psi, no3 is 400psi, no4 is 400psi. Would you say these results are good ?
You should try do it on a smart car CDI, remove the back of the car, take out intercooler, inlet and all associated plastics through the back of the car, I have hands like shovel's also, absolute pig of a job to bypass it, car works fine now though.
@Jay Leno I had a Clio before the mk5 with more miles on, it needed a head gasket at 140 and went on for 3 years after that. The bxe break regardless of how well their looked after and driven unfortunately. I certainly wouldn't buy another lol.
@Jay Leno I believe you dude. I'm sure there's some with 200k+ on but mine with no warning at all went bang and seized up on a 50mph road driving normally. I found i wasn't alone when I googled about the bxe. Good luck to your buyer :)
@Jay Leno Id had it a year or so, really good service history, engine ran sweet, 55mpg no smoke or rattles and then it just went suddenly. Everything siezed, smoke from under bonnet, oil all over the road, missus panicking in passenger seat. 2008 model, had to source and fit a PD out of a Bora was a real nightmare as it was meant to be my reliable car while I restored my mk2 Golf. I never looked more into it so it may not be true but I was told by someone the bxe engines have thinner bearing shells or something which is what causes the sudden death of some/many of them.
1.9 TDI PD's are pretty reliable, but got flaws too. In some series (BXE, VW Caddy) big end bearing wears out and/or rod bolts fails and you end up loosing crankshaft. I replaced mine (bearings and bolts) at around $350. Also injectors are pretty pricey and camshaft wears out, if you don't change the oil regularly. Also hydraulic valve lifters don't last lifetime. I got BXE in Seat Altea 2008, 220000km, only clutch with DMF was replaced, otherwise all engine parts are original.
Have you ever worked with 1.9 pd105 BKC engine. Is it strong like pd100 or pd130(i mean strong for simple remap). Does bkc have some standard engine problems? I hear that BKC is much better than BXE and BLS. Could you tell me cons of that engine please.
So what about the 204hp one? I have been looking for a T6 Multivan. Maybe I should just get a V300 MB, needs to be reliable and I am OCD on the maintenance.
You’ve said theEGR cooler valve has caused the problem with this engine,which has a D suffix but when you put up the bad and good part numbers the one ending in D is the good one,or have I got it wrong?
Eagle Eyed, We double checked the OE part number using the VIN, the vehicle left the factory with the A suffix part number. It looks like someone changed the EGR cooler previously on this van, maybe done on a recall however the damage had already been done.
We had oil consumption problem in our transporter 180hp. changed motorblock and also with the newest d type egr cooler. BUT now after 130000 km the same problem occur. the motor is drawing very much oil AGAIN. Do you think its the same problem that had occured? or mabi it is the turbo this time? I know that they rebuilded the engine with the old turbo. If anyone knows something about this. Please let me know.
Very interest video, I know that engine PD were the best engine ever made on VAG till it till change to common rail too many issues! Had a VW Transporter T5 2.0TDI 84PS for rent van had issue with EGR light on the second day!
From what I can see 03L 115 512 A = 7.02756.04 There is a decent thread on this here - vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/increased-oil-consumption-problem-2010-t5-cali-180-bhp.15142/page-8
I had two of these brand new, a complete disaster of an engine after having two 174 5 cylinder previously, crap power output, crap egr got rid of all of them at 3yo.
Currently have a 204 ps on a 2017 plate from new with 140k miles, 2 egr valves junk, current one grumbling. 1 duo mass flywheel and clutch although clutch not worn at 135k. chipped from new, dropped and uprated suspension, loads of tasteful usable mods, lighting etc.
Fully loaded with work stuff, I am keeping it forever and it still looks like new, sportline upgraded highline lwb, I love it to bits.
Great vids Guys.
P.S. I chipped the second 174 5 Cylinder and it was like lethal weapon two when the turbo spooled up, but the fuel consumption was below 20 mpg and front tyres just melted, happy days.
Got a cfca sportline myself. Fortunately found out about the issues quickly and blanked the egr with a tafmet emulator. 2 years ownership later and 70000 total miles on the vehicle all is well.
They're a nice smooth engine when they work well.
I own one, 100k almost, has EGR blanked for 99k so it runs perfectly!
That’s good to hear, I’ve just installed the same unit on my van.
Fitted a tafmet egr emulator to my wife's 2.2 tid saab five or six years ago. Never been a problem, still working great.
Remember that combustion chamber temperatures can actually be higher without the exhaust gasses acting as a combustion suppressant.
Egr not just an emmisions thing.
@@chasevans7171 The factory EGR only operates at two times, initially assist in attaining operating temperatures (when more heats desirable) and later whenever at low loads to reduce NOX formation as a result of excess oxygen in hot exhaust gas. Unlike a petrol engine where EGR increases the total mass of the cylinder charge, diesels control the power by reducing fuel ratio (not of volume of mixture supplied as with most petrol cars). Hence the average cylinder temperature is already lowest when EGR cooler would be utilized, and situations you'd be concerned about heat (such as sustained high load) aren't impacted by the EGR delete. Instead the high load temperatures will be governed by the volume/temperature of input air, alongside the injector duty cycle (if its taking to long to put fuel in, you start to get thermal issues you wouldn't otherwise at that power level).
I’ll stick with my PD motor. Reliable and strong
I managed to put a rod through my block with my passat's 1.9 PD engine mate........so can be problematic.
They do work well!
@@buggerlugz6753 B6 Passat ?
Buggerlugz that happens if you abuse engines.
Buggerlugz then don’t buy a BKC or BXE if you won’t wanna be losing rods
The 1.9 he’s talking about is the one from that old A4 and Golf MK3
I miss the 1.9tdi pre 2005
still got a VP110, and it just... goes. It just goes and thats it!
Could be Nice with a “worst problems” series on the VAG engines a what could be done to avoid issues
it would be 10 hours long!
Bring it on boys 👍
Modern VW is shit from HELL!
@@DarksideDevelopments Hello. I want to buy vw amarok, i choose 2.0 tdi single turbo or biturbo?
Great video and mega useful. I bought one knowing it may have an issue. Had it tested, no issue showing. Changed the EGR to be on the safe side, 2 years later, valve 2 + 4 running on 25%. The damage was already done it just wasn't showing yet. Call to VW, luckily they conveniently sell a kit to fix the issue. Essentially resulted in a brand new engine plus anything else that has ever had exhaust gas or oil. Not cheap!
@Pswayder, Was that just your local VW dealer, same issue here and looking at options, what is "Not cheap! if i can ask? and what did you get for it ) thx
My local, trusted garage in Warwickshire, they got onto VW. The kit itself is around £6-7k (plus fitting) if i remember right which includes a new engine and all ancillaries - DPF, EGR, Re-con Turbo - literally everything that had touched oil or exhaust fumes. Doing it this way (and returning the old engine as VW instructed) means you get a 3 year warranty on the new block and bits. If you just change the block - no warranty. Change to a recon engine, that may have the issue, or a part in your existing engine may be a deadly sniper. I'm 12k in on the new engine - all good so far. My old EGR is now a desk tidy in my office. It's called 'The Bastard' @@smithygillson3040
Nice in-depth analysis on the CFCA.good to see this coming to light and someone having the guts to put this on RUclips.
Just got my van back from Darkside, after watching this i was shitting myself the engine would have been junk. Thankfully they checked the compression and all good :) goes much better after the remap cheers guys
How many miles were on it
My CFCA (2011 model year) was replaced with about 35.000 miles on the clock. Due to absurd oil usage because the cilinder walls had gone. After the whole block was replaced the turbo started acting up, and that turned out to be a vacuum line issue. Now, about 6 years later she still runs fine, though I don’t know if they replaced anything other than the block...
Very good and interesting all low emissions stuff is ruining cars.???
I'm really happy with the EA189 engine. The CFFB in the Jetta is great. It does have the EGR flow problem with the valve but that's an easy fix. Otherwise it runs great
Wonder if CFCA stands for "Compression F*****g Cooler Assembly"........???
If the cap fits
Oh fuck!! Haha I'm crying
So is it a good engine basically with just a poor egr design/poor maintenance issues.?
So should we avoid them??
If you close the egr asap with low mileage and add an additional oil cooler the last long
Yes.............
@@niko8638 Basically because with twin turbos, a fairly small engine bay and commercial type demands they are often abused with (long days with heavy loads, towing trailers or lead footed courier use in stop start traffic to name a few), temperatures do get pretty warm, especially with an auto and air conditioning all piling more thermal load into the same air path. Will depend on your climate and use case of course, but in general if your not keeping it totally stock, its worth at least considering.
Also unlike EGR delete, a external oil cooler doesn't normally have a large impact on what people think of as the "warmup" time of the engine, since its not a big change in either mass or total cooling present (even before thermostat opens), and the oil temps are only loosely coupled to the block/coolant (reaching an equilibrium that notably higher, but with average in sump remaining cooler than the block for a noticeable time after the engines coolant has reached operating temperature anyway). That said if your going crazy with the size you'll want to make sure you do a longer (or harder) drive once/twice a week to get the oil hot enough to drive moisture out, else add an external water separator (which is what most heavy diesel plant needs to do, as the "Italian tune up" of running it full tilt every now and again is both expensive in fuel/maintenance and frowned upon by occupational workplace safety regulators), but this isn't a change in usage for most van owners anyway (much less anybody who was worried about overheating oil to begin with). Hence for most people the real consideration for adding the cooler is the cost of parts/installation, since a ebay cheapo home job can be a liability, and as much as we all like watching the dark side boys work, they do still need to keep the lights on, so it isn't free.
Was just going to look at a 2010 caravelle you just saved me a lot of money.Cheers
I am due to pick up a 2013 bitdi 180hp with dsg tomorrow. 122000 miles. It is very clean with a fantastic service record. Drives really well. Should I walk away?
It's hard to say, they're great vans but have their issues. Be prepared for the worst or look at single turbo 2.0 TDIs, these seems to be more reliable and with a remap you get similar power to a stock biturbo
The people responsible for coming up with the laws and regulations that require every car manufacturerer to make engines that are not possible to make, that makes almost every car owner suffer with gigant repair bills, and cars that won't start, or cars that stop in the middle of busy highways, they should be sued. They are responsible for all this mess, as far as I can tell. They seem to be doing it on purpose in order to get everyone to use electrical cars. Well, I know how bad batteries can be, having had an offgrid cabin for many years. The battery quality has gone down too. I was just watching a preowned hybrid car that was for sale. Not because I would ever want to own one, but because it had two solar panels on the roof. To me that is hilarious. If you need solar power to drive a car, you would be in trouble in this country. Here we have had years with eleven months of rain on a daily basis, with no sunlight whatsover. You don't get much solar power from that. Back to the people responsible for all this trouble and these gigantic expenses. They should be held economically responsible for all of this. This has gone too far to say the least. Enough is enough. This madness needs to be stopped as soon as possible.
I replaced a 2.0 CR TDi in a 2015 Caravelle that threw ALL four con rods. I have never seen that before. I asked the customer, a coach operator if it had runaway. He said no, was only doing 50 mph following a coach. Was a DSG model.
never seen that either, maybe a dodgy re-con?
Greetings from a Yorkshire guy in Germany, you should look at the videos from redhead Zylinderkopf Technik here in Germany they specialise in the vw engines and do a oil cooler kit for the t6
They're expensive and throw parts that's it. They started RUclips because they were about to go bankrupt
Is this the same engine as the 180ps in the Crafter?
They also have EGR cooler issues. I have a 140ps and wondering if I should blank it off now.
I think they are more similar to the later CXEB, they have EGR issues but not the same as these. They're a pain too as they're at the back of the engine not the side.
Take a look at this video - ruclips.net/video/cNWeJ8rt0bU/видео.html
Hi need help diagnosing a smoke problem in a caravelle 180 bitid
When i drive for 10minutes smoke comes from under the bonnet when i open the bonnet it appear to be coming from behind the engine nere the mani fold.
Anyone know what it is thanks
Few years back I had a VW Assist patrol (RAC or AA I think) change one of them EGR assemblies on my Transporter at the side of the road. Took him nearly 3 hours. Watching this I’m glad I never kept the van.
Hi, I’ve had a 2011 T32 180 manual for about 7 years. I wasn’t aware of the issues when I bought it however it’s now done 170k and at the minute running okay. I love it and I would like to keep the van long term however to ensure reliability is it worth / cost effective replacing the engine or cut my losses and get rid? If it can be refurbished or replaced is this something you could do?
Drop us an email to sales@darksidedevelopments.co.uk and one of the team will be able to advise you there
Hi, nice hair lol and great videos. I'm from Ireland and new to your channel mainly because I'm looking at a van and VW T5 Transporter 2.5 TDI lwb brought me straight to you. I will be honest I don't have much faith in German cars i.e. 2000 Audi V6 (fuel pump), 05 2.5 TDI, BMW 525D (just about every known problem) 07Mini one 1.6 Conv (head gasket and seized solid gearbox), 07 Skoda Superb 2.0 TDI (dm cutch, gearbox), 02 Audi TT Quatro, 08 Mercedes C180 coupe 2.0 (camshaft sprockets, corrosion), every one of these cars scrapped at around 100k as they were uneconomical to fix.
All were very well maintained.
I have been offered the van I mentioned, it can be described as immaculate, inside cab, inside the rear, engine bay, underneath and not a dent or scratch on its silver paintwork and with 145k miles apparently the cams are driven by gear, it has not been tidied for sale but always kept that way. I know the guy who owns it well and he looked after it like a baby and is only selling as unfortunately he is at the end of life with terminal cancer. He is looking £7.5 k rightly trying to get as much as he can for his partner.
As you can imagine I am nervous regarding German vehicles, I cant expect you to say buy it and know problems can't be foreseen and obviously no reflection on your advice if it goes wrong. The bit of research I have done is many of these vans have over 200k without serious problems, nut there appears to be many horror stories.
My question is is the right van to buy espesially with this engine or could I be walking into another mony pit. Your opinion would be very valuable. Thanks.
If it's been well looked after and continues to be, then it shouldn't be horrendous. However, with most transporters, if things do go wrong, it can get very pricey
PD for the win 👍
Should i take the bitdi passat with the 240hp? Or a regular 2.0 tdi and tune it?
If you are looking for that kind of power, imo you are better off with a maintained 3.0tdi...
2.0 consume less and is more reliable but with a map i dunno
Its a totally different engine, 5 years on they seem OK?
Interesting hearing your opinion I thought in early models the head bolts stretched too. How are the other high output 2.0 tdi engines?
When did this engine go out of production? I’ve just bought a 2017 VW Crafter with the twin turbo 177 engine with 82,000 on the clock. The dpf lights just come on? Am I safe or is it possibly a problem like this?
Crafter is different but get it looked at ASAP
if you are going for a 2.0 tdi, never buy the pd ones and also try to get a 2010+ common rail one. they dont have the oil pump issues
My 2.5PD has done 325k miles, just doing injectors on it now, for the second time. Trust me, this is the best engine VW made
Hi.. is this still an issue with the newer 2016 2.0L biturbo 204 BHP engine? Thanks
We are seeing them come in with similar egr issues but they don't appear to be as bad as the CFCA
What about 2013 vw Caddy 2.0 tdi 62kw 6 speed that I buy it has 115.000km and it was special made for Austria Post that's why it has only 62 kW and same golf 6 has 103kw
Should make good gains with a tune!
i just test drove a tdi400 and it seemed like it had flatter power then the tdi340 makes me a bit nervous about possibly buying it
not sure how the higher power model could be worse but you never know!
@DarksideDevelopments I think I'll drive another before I go back and recheck if it's still available was thinking it might be tired idk generally seemed good but
Bore wash .
The aluminium gets in polishes the cylinder walls an rings . the cylinder doesn't seal , that gives you poor compression. The mix shoots in to the sump past the rings . Creates to much crank case pressure, oil leaks , oil burning .
Yeah, not bore wash in the petrol engine sense
Can you delete egr completely in this engine or is that not possible or is there complications from doing so? My engine tuner says deleting egr on any VW stops dpf regen properly?
D Peaceman38 my tuner also said the same about deleting the egr on a n47 bmw, if you delete the egr your dpf will go to shit
Pedro Guerreiro I run a fleet of vehicles and the VW/Skoda diesels I have egr deleted mainly due to constant issues but I do an active regen on dpf as find spot levels high. They never fail mot as emissions are same with or without egr as all still have cat and dpf. Good blast up road prior to mot and good quality fuel.
We dont ever remove EGR alone.
Can't remove an egr and have an MOT so no.
This is precisely what happened to my Caravelle 2012 CFCA engine. I had my engine repaired: major engine restoration - 4 new pistons, new EGR Cooler (D Suffix), 4 new con rods (used), 8 x new bearings, 4 new jets, head gasket, coolant, 5w30 C3 synthetic oil (£2000). It's been running great for 10,000 miles since. But now I have a low oil pressure warning. But it seems to be something of a red herring as no mechanical faults or noises can be found, oil level fine, temperature normal and the car is still running great. I get an intermittent alert for 5s at a time. It would seem to be wiring
I also get intermittent electric sliding door bouncing and a couple of rear circulation issues reported on VCDS. So it looks like some ageing to the electrical components is my next battlefield.... (if anyone can offer any tips I'd really welcome them).
I've had some other fun with it: New dual mass flywheel, oil cooler, seal rings, o/s engine mount, wet DSG clutch, DSG oil, Spigot bearing (that was missing)! New CV joint (inner and outer, driver's side) and rear wishbone. Oil sump check, rear n/s wheel bearing, new oil pump and shaft, cambelt change.
If you some help just drop us an email - sales@darksidedevelopments.co.uk
I have the same problem with the oil lamp, only two seconds and gone. I dont know whats happend. you resolve the problem? Where is the place on that engine for the oil pressure switch? Thanks anyway
Ive been hunting a decent vw transporter with a dsg box for ages and while there’s so many different engines and power outputs. i want to ask anyone’s opinion whats the best option of van to consider and should I avoid higher mileages.thank you
140 DSG is most likely good
I also want to buy a t5 with a dsg gearbox which you advise me to be a durable engine that has gone over 200000km. Same 140kw?
EGR Blanking with DPF left in place? I notice you advise against this on your site but other people offer blanking+remap and leave DPF as it is.
Or fit Tafmet and DPF still in place any thoughts on this please?
We never turn EGR off with DPF in place
@@DarksideDevelopments Why is this?
The DPF won't regenerate without EGR
I will beg to differ on this... egr-only delete, force a dpf regen to bring up dash light, drive as required until light goes out... Does that not mean it works?
Nice vid. Thnx 4 sharing. What about removing egr and replace for normal watercooled oilfilter housing?
Yeah, we ended up doing that using this www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/oil-filter-housing-with-oil-cooler-for-vag-cr-diesel-engines.html
@@DarksideDevelopments and block off on the egr?
Shurly if anyone has got that number on the bad part list without any symptoms ,then they should get it changed anyway to your proposed part before it becomes an issue, am i wright.
Correct
what do you do with the block / bore ? hone it or a rebore / larger pistons ?
usually they are too far gone for even the largest overbore!
Still rocking the ALH TDI with a Vnt17 and bigger injectors
Got a spare in the barn too 👍😎👍
AGR better though 😅
Hi I’m about to complete a purchase for a 2017 4motion 204,manual LWB it’s only done 39 k and a turbo was replaced at Vw at 30k
Really like the high spec on the van and on test drive it is very tight and pulls nicely
What further checks or advice would you give me regarding the engine, not sure if this is a CFCA etc ?
I was hoping to tune it aswell only as we will be towing a large caravan with it all over uk and Europe
Thanks Ant
So that will be the CXEB, and we've been seeing a fair few 2016/17 models coming into our workshop with faulty pistons/rings damaging the engines and having to get replacements. There are a fair few posts on our facebook about the issue. You can also drop us an email to sales@darksidedevelopments.co.uk with reg/vin and we can discuss any issues and tuning if applicable
In the vid it’s a suffix D which you say is ok but looks clogged up and causing smooth cylinders in the video, is that engine kaput in the video? Was just about to buy a 2015 180 BiTurbo but think am better swerving altogether
The engine was likely already dead when it was fitted
Are these issues only with the T5.1? I’ve been thinking of getting a T6 & been researching on what not to buy etc.
Believe this engine came in the T6's also. The CFCA's have EGR issues and CXEB's have had issues with the rings and pistons causing premature engine wear
@@DarksideDevelopments So am I right in saying it’s just the bi turbo models in both T5.1 & T6 I should avoid?
Pretty much yeah, we've seen more catastrophic issues in them than any others
Was looking to buy a 4motion dsg what years should I avoid?
It's not really the year, it's the engine code that's the problem. CFCA's have the most issues. Other than that as long as they've been looked after, should be alright
Is swapping to the 140 single turbo doable with these?
Probably, would need to change ecu and loom as well
Thanks for the video guys. Just been looking at a 62 plate 180 70k miles on the clock and has the 512 A EGR should I walk away? I used to be a mechanic by trade and the vehicle is very cheap trade deal drives and starts perfectly. Thanks guys.
Take the risk or ask to do a comp check first? Some run well but gobble oil
Thank you for the reply guys much appreciated.
Great work . sharing the knowlage
Hey guys! What do you think about 8v bmm engine? Any common problems you guys face? And is there anything specific about their maintenance to keep in mind? Thank you for your time!
It's good, fit a larger turbo and some bigger injectors!
@@DarksideDevelopments yep, that is the plan, just want to make sure it is perfectly healthy before doing that!
Seems to be a common issue in modern diesel engines. MAN Trucks championed this solution in their marketing to meet Euro 5 emissions about 10 years ago, being I’m sure the only heavy truck manufacturer at that time not having to go down the SCR “Ad Blue” route. The results were the same a vehicle we had needed two engines in less than 3 years! EGR as a engineering concept is just shite, when you get to see the innards as shown here you know the reason why!
Are they the same ones used in the old amarok 2.0 Bitdi
No, the amaroks didn't have this issue
Did you say which model and year this was? And mileage, we do need to know as there are a few types
It's the T5.1/T6 2.0 BiTdi 180 engine with the EGR cooler. All the others should be fine
I JUST lost an entire 140 2.0 tdi to a head bolt. Thousands down the drain. I don't know what to say
would e simple egr delete with blanking plates remove the issue? And does this issue apply to the earliest 140 hp transporters?
Only 180s kill engines and you need to get it before it's failed
@@DarksideDevelopments ok, i have a customers car with all the symtoms mentioned in the video. Did a egr off but i didn't install blanking plates right away and still had the same issues. Installed blanking plates for the egr and car runs fine now, but feels like it's down on power so was thinking maybe he has a cracked egr cooler and water has worn the cylinder to a lower compression.
Love these vlogs top lad iv followed darksidesince day1 admire the diesel love you guys have and admire your growth
I have an 03 Jetta tdi with the ALH engine in it and it’s been great lol. That car has 415k miles on it or nearly 670k km lol
they run forever!
I've asked my mate about this engine. I trust him, we've been mates since we were in highschool. He said it's the best engine he knows. He will make anyone a flat rate offer with warranty, sight unseen.
To rebuild the engine 🙈.
Lol
@@ryanp6138 We were on a ride, he walks up to a van making an open offer: "nice van: leather, doublecab, double sliding doors dsg, 4motion! *When* your engine fails call my company, I'll rebuild the engine for this price" 🤣🤣
@@Sj1bby it's a good plan to plant the seed. Who's his company?
@@ryanp6138 he has a small company in Drachten The Netherlands. Not sure if he wants his company name on RUclips.
¡dn ʇǝb ʇ,uɐɔ ı puɐ uǝ11ɐɟ ǝʌɐɥ I `ǝϣ d1ǝɥ
So the excuses begin.
You speak the truth... "low emission crap" 👍🏻👍🏻
Would this issue be on a 2012 2 litre Amarok? Same engine?
Different engine, so they won't have this issue
@@DarksideDevelopments great thanks, good to know
My engine where broken of 180hp 2014 at 135000km
What is the problem
And i put now new engine what Can i do sell him or keep ????
PleAse advice me
Hello. I have a t5 180 bitdi 2013 and a T5 2017 bitdi 204. The 180 has just broke his engine and the 204 has oil consumption and will break like the 180... It’s a real problem! Vw makes shit from few years... a shame !
Bad times, let us look at the 204!
@@DarksideDevelopments I am in France my friend. But good news VW will change the engine for zero pound 😅🙏🏼
Realistically it's VW worst EGR Assembly not really a bad motor. Being a VW technican I've changed my fair share but I still love mine!!!
The title is a bit click baity, they are good if you dont ever dyno them, 160hp max! lol
Great video, but could you tell me if a 2lt tdi skoda kodiaq vrs 245bhp engine block is that the same block as the 2lt tdi 190bhp engine? Theres a kodiaq with a smashed sump the engine is destroyed, i assume so,was looking to buy an engine to replace the damaged one
Nothing is shared with the 240hp engine, it's all unique
So you could not replace the block with another 2lt bare engine and add all the ancillaries to it? So its a completely different 2lt engine?
The complete engine is entirely different
Hey! Nice vid! Btw, what s your opinion about 2.0 tdi DJGA engine? Thx in advance
Yeah, they are similar to CUNA/CUPA. They struggle a bit over 300bhp though. Got a blog here on tuning them! www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/Blog/mqb-platform-ea288-engine-tuning-184-cuna-cupa/
@@DarksideDevelopments how about oil consumption?
they use a lot normally!
@@DarksideDevelopments thx...i was thinking vag sorted out the oil consumption issue on these models
nope!
DD does the 150 suffer the same EGR cooler issues?
No.
I have a 204 engine. Is it worth deleting egr ie do these engines suffer egr failure?
I would anyway if it were mine
Would you also gut the DPF and delete to?
@@DarksideDevelopments
?
Bloody hell: i was looking at purchasing a passat alltrack bi-turbo from Germany.
How is the single turbo 190 ps...same problem?
It's not the same engine at all.
Ryan P Yep, i have the 240ps remapped from new with 102k on it. Never misses a beat.
Does the CUAA 2.0 bitdi have the same problem? Thanks
Not that we know of.
Was it enough to just hone it, or did you need to bore it?
Scrap block!
Does the 340 tdi suffer from same problem?
They should be okay, just the CFCA's and we're starting to see similar issues in the CXEB also
Hi !i have Amarok 2.0 engine with 163 hp . How much power do you think could be made of it without getting a motorcycle crash? Im waiting your answer. Have a good day!
200hp is a real struggle!
@@DarksideDevelopments oh man help me a lot thanks !!!!!
Did the engine made a kinda turbo pipe leaking? Because i know someone who has one it has no smoke, seems to have pretty much all the power but at vw after months of trying what is that noise they told him that basically the engine is dead
Just request a compression test
Blanking the egr would physically stop any coolant entering the intake. But do these coolers also risk coolant entering the engine oil?
Hey Darkside, are these issues fixed on the 2022 bi turbo Highline models?
Not 100% sure but we have some fairly new T6s with issues
What do you charge for the exchange engine? And if I was to drive to you is the exchange something that can be done in 1 day?
Best to email, it can be 5k up to 10k+ if everything is dead! We usually have the vans a few days
What about the BiTdi CSHA (Amarok = other EGR cooler)?
Just watched your video. Thanks for sharing. I'm in the process of possibly ordering supposedly one of the last transporter 6.1's tdi450 4motion vans and then convert into a camper. After researching the web I am now concerned about these engines. Are you getting issues with the later engines? Thanks.
That will either be a CXFA or CFHA engine which shouldn't have the same issues as CFCA's do so you should be good with them!
@@DarksideDevelopments Thank you very much for your response. Much appreciated.
I just got my engine re built and removed that part all together with the dark side part lol
Hello - mind sharing the costs? im now looking at a new engine. Dont buy one of
these Bi turbo 180 engines.
Difference between CLCA and CFCA 2.0 TDI engines?
CLCA's don't suffer with these issues and have less power from stock
@@DarksideDevelopments Can we swap the 140Hp version of Jetta ( CLCB) ECU with Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI (CLCA) ... Both have same injectors and turbo but CLCA is detuned to 110Hp and CLCB comes with 140Hp from factory
Easier to flash the file :)
How much is the cost for rebuilding this engine? Parts and maybe some machining. I can do the rest for my self. Under 2000 euro ?
I want a multivan with DSG and 4 motion so I have no other engine choice
2k in parts and machining easy
@@DarksideDevelopments i found 0.5mm oversize pistons (€300), egr-cooler (€650), rebuildkit with Berings, timingbelt etc (€500)
And a local machineshop do the Boeing for €300
So ithink I can make it for under 2K
Email us for the EGR cooler
What compression test tool do you recommend. The hole for the glow plug is so deep. Is there a deep hole compression test fitting you use?
We make our own!
@@DarksideDevelopments thank you for your reply.
@@DarksideDevelopments ive had a compression test done. The results are as follows, no1 is 385psi, no2 is 420psi, no3 is 400psi, no4 is 400psi. Would you say these results are good ?
You should try do it on a smart car CDI, remove the back of the car, take out intercooler, inlet and all associated plastics through the back of the car, I have hands like shovel's also, absolute pig of a job to bypass it, car works fine now though.
I had a bxe in a mk5 Golf, the bottom end came out the side of the engine at 140k POS
@Jay Leno I had a Clio before the mk5 with more miles on, it needed a head gasket at 140 and went on for 3 years after that. The bxe break regardless of how well their looked after and driven unfortunately. I certainly wouldn't buy another lol.
@Jay Leno I believe you dude. I'm sure there's some with 200k+ on but mine with no warning at all went bang and seized up on a 50mph road driving normally. I found i wasn't alone when I googled about the bxe. Good luck to your buyer :)
@Jay Leno Id had it a year or so, really good service history, engine ran sweet, 55mpg no smoke or rattles and then it just went suddenly. Everything siezed, smoke from under bonnet, oil all over the road, missus panicking in passenger seat.
2008 model, had to source and fit a PD out of a Bora was a real nightmare as it was meant to be my reliable car while I restored my mk2 Golf.
I never looked more into it so it may not be true but I was told by someone the bxe engines have thinner bearing shells or something which is what causes the sudden death of some/many of them.
@@humblekind4857 Ive got a pug 2.0 HDI getting close to 1/2 a million miles not 1 problem.
1.9 TDI PD's are pretty reliable, but got flaws too. In some series (BXE, VW Caddy) big end bearing wears out and/or rod bolts fails and you end up loosing crankshaft. I replaced mine (bearings and bolts) at around $350. Also injectors are pretty pricey and camshaft wears out, if you don't change the oil regularly. Also hydraulic valve lifters don't last lifetime. I got BXE in Seat Altea 2008, 220000km, only clutch with DMF was replaced, otherwise all engine parts are original.
Have you ever worked with 1.9 pd105 BKC engine. Is it strong like pd100 or pd130(i mean strong for simple remap). Does bkc have some standard engine problems? I hear that BKC is much better than BXE and BLS. Could you tell me cons of that engine please.
It's emissions regulations that are killing modern engines not just volkswagens a lot of modern diesels are
Yep! Land Rover caused their own issues though so don't let them blame anyone else!
So what about the 204hp one? I have been looking for a T6 Multivan. Maybe I should just get a V300 MB, needs to be reliable and I am OCD on the maintenance.
You’ve said theEGR cooler valve has caused the problem with this engine,which has a D suffix but when you put up the bad and good part numbers the one ending in D is the good one,or have I got it wrong?
Eagle Eyed, We double checked the OE part number using the VIN, the vehicle left the factory with the A suffix part number. It looks like someone changed the EGR cooler previously on this van, maybe done on a recall however the damage had already been done.
Darkside Developments Thanks guys,love the videos 👍
I've got a 2016 180 with a D. How do I check against the VIN as per your comment to see if its legit or not? Thanks!
@@SimonLittler You should be able to check this with the dealer (Y)
We had oil consumption problem in our transporter 180hp. changed motorblock and also with the newest d type egr cooler. BUT now after 130000 km the same problem occur. the motor is drawing very much oil AGAIN. Do you think its the same problem that had occured? or mabi it is the turbo this time? I know that they rebuilded the engine with the old turbo. If anyone knows something about this. Please let me know.
The turbo's leak a lot of oil so please check that first. but after than amount of use the engine could be gone again!!
@@DarksideDevelopments Okeey thank you=). So the D type egr is not rock solid ?
Very interest video, I know that engine PD were the best engine ever made on VAG till it till change to common rail too many issues! Had a VW Transporter T5 2.0TDI 84PS for rent van had issue with EGR light on the second day!
T5.1 ? Not t5, the pd engine
My MK4 ajm TDI was fantastic reliable
Is this the same engine that is in the 2.0 180 bi turbo that is in the old amaroks?
Yes but they don't have the same crappy EGR!
@@DarksideDevelopments do they still suffer from any related issues or are they generally more reliable?
Plate code is missing off mine so can’t see if it’s a ‘D’ but the alternate code is 7 02756 04. Good or bad…? Cheers!
From what I can see 03L 115 512 A = 7.02756.04
There is a decent thread on this here - vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/increased-oil-consumption-problem-2010-t5-cali-180-bhp.15142/page-8
I think CFFB probably worse - that's the one I'm struggling with at the moment.
What’s the 240bhp BiTdi engine like in the tiguan ? Thanks
Look for other CUAA engine videos! Good engines
@@DarksideDevelopments Yep thanks just watching the Passat video. Think I’ve made my mind up cheers fellas.
Good family thrasher
Cn anyone give me information regarding the 2.0 tdi BMT 150 engine? would this have the same problem?
Not as far as we are aware, the problem was with the CFCA engines other engine models didn't share this same problem EGR cooler.
@@DarksideDevelopments thank you for getting back to me! I am looking to buy a transporter with this engine. Again cheers again 👍
@Darkside Developments maybe now something about audi a4 2.0 tdi cr170 CAHA 10 /// 08-12 ?
Email us for options!
Glorious vid cheers.
My good old AHU has 420,000 KM and still runs fine. Good to know to steer clear of that engine, screw the polar bears.
Its more Eco to keep an old engine than buy new ones!
Yep, people always seem to forget that...
What did the cute cuddly polar bears ever do to you? 😃
They were weaponised by the people profiteering from Global warming, or was it climate change when it got Colder?
I'm guessing you won't be asking Greta Thunberg on a date any time soon 😮🤭😀😀😀😀
@@thefamilyrobbo she's an oxygen theif
Pretty sure they’d eat you given the chance. :)
yes it was a shame he revealed his ignorance there .
Yes it is
How reliable is the single turbo version.
Much better
@@DarksideDevelopments the T5.1 is a great van to convert. So I know now to get a single turbo version. People say the 140 bhp version is quite good