Mercedes W163 DIY Valve Cover Gasket & Breather Cover Reseal Both Sides M112 M113 ML350 ML500 ML320
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- This is a step-by-step DIY video which shows how to replace the valve cover gaskets and reseal the breather covers on the Mercedes M112 and M113 engines, as found in the W163 (ML Class), W220, W210 and other V6 and V8 models ('98 - '06). Shown in the video are both an '05 ML500 (M113) and an '03 ML350 (M112).
Major Timestamps (see the Pinned Comment for more detailed Timestamps):
00:23 Diagnostics
02:00 Parts
Begin Right side Valve Cover Job
03:20 Right side valve cover gasket and notes on gasket fit
04:11 Remove air filter box
06:36 Remove bolts for air duct, ATF dipstick (10mm, E10)
07:26 Disconnect left side hose to air duct
08:34 Remove air duct
13:01 Disconnect ignition coil electrical connectors
13:52 Disconnect right side breather hose
14:13 Remove ignition coil bolts (T30)
Remove Right side Breather Cover
16:04 Shown on the V6: Remove two breather cover screws (T25 or H4)
17:14 Break free all valve cover bolts (E10) before removing the two long bolts
18:52 Remove breather cover
Remove Right side Valve Cover
21:00 Back to the V8 -- tips for removing the damaged fasteners
21:50 Break free all the valve cover bolts first
23:58 Remove valve cover from the head
26:11 Clean the head surface after removing the valve cover
Right side Valve Cover on the Bench
27:19 Clean and inspect valve cover
27:55 Inspect breather passages on the cover
29:07 Clean breather cover and mating surface
31:04 Inspect old valve cover gasket
31:31 Install new valve cover gasket
33:32 Clean valve cover bolts
33:58 Clean valve cover mating surface on the head
Right side Valve Cover Installation and Breather Cover Re-seal
33:58 Clean valve cover mating surface on the head
35:00 Place valve cover on the head and thread in a few bolts by hand
36:28 Check gasket before installing all the bolts
37:40 Cut RTV nozzle for breather cover RTV application (thin 2mm bead)
39:34 Apply RTV into the channel on breather cover (thin 2mm bead)
41:51 Install breather cover to valve cover
43:02 Tighten all the valve cover bolts (final torque 80 inch-lbs; tighten the bolts in several passes, starting at the center on each pass and spiraling top/bottom out towards the ends)
45:36 Install ignition coil bolts (torque: 70 inch-lbs)
46:27 Connect ignition coil electrical
47:01 Move auxiliary coolant pump back into place
Removing Breather Hoses, right and left side
47:12 Replace breather hoses, air distribution piece
48:21 How to remove a broken air distribution tube from the throttle body
54:35 Remove the hose connectors to re-use them
Begin Left side Valve Cover Job
56:01 Left side valve cover overview
56:33 Depressurize fuel system using Schrader valve
59:56 Disconnect fuel line (17mm)
01:02:52 Disconnect left side breather hoses
01:04:32 Disconnect the ignition coil electrical
01:05:48 Remove fuse box heat shield (two Philips screws)
01:06:27 Remove ignition coil bolts (T30)
Remove Left side Breather Cover
01:08:02 Remove breather cover screws (T25 if aluminum, H4 if stainless)
01:08:45 Break free the valve cover bolts (E10)
01:11:20 Remove breather cover E10 bolts
01:11:32 Remove/dislodge breather cover from valve cover
01:13:46 Remove remaining valve cover bolts (E10)
01:14:37 Remove valve cover from the head
01:17:08 Inspect, clean head
Left side Valve Cover on Bench
01:18:14 Remove old valve cover gasket, clean the surfaces
01:22:52 Install new valve cover gasket
Install the Left side Valve Cover and Re-seal the Breather Cover
01:24:08 Clean gasket surface
01:24:29 Install valve cover perimeter bolts hand-tight
01:25:15 Apply RTV to breather cover channel, bolt holes (thin 2mm bead)
01:27:10 Install breather cover to valve cover
01:27:39 Install new breather cover screws (H4, low torque, torque: 35 inch-lbs)
01:28:55 Tighten all valve cover bolts (torque: 80 inch-lbs)
01:31:28 Install ignition coil bolts (T30, torque is 70 inch-lbs)
01:32:27 Connect ignition coil electrical
01:32:49 How to replace the coil electrical connector (MB A203 545 2038)
01:38:50 Reconnect fuel line (17mm, torque: 28 ft-lbs)
Install Breather Hoses and Air Duct Hoses
01:39:45 Disassemble left side hoses and remove hose connector
01:41:15 Connect new left side hoses together
01:41:52 Inspect air distribution piece/hose tee, new design
01:42:08 Connect hoses to the air dist piece
01:43:40 Install new breather hoses as a unit
01:47:18 Notes on air duct gasket (use MB A112 159 0080 for the W163 throttle body)
01:48:53 Install air duct but don't connect it yet (very tight fit on the V8)
01:54:04 Install air duct breather hose
01:55:21 Connect air duct to the throttle body
01:57:03 Install bolts for the air duct (E10) and ATF dipstick (10mm)
01:57:19 Install air hose and filter box
02:00:34 Prime fuel system
See the Pinned Comment for all part numbers. I hope this video is helpful.
Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
Timestamps, Part numbers, Torque values, other information are below: RUclipsr carl suiter added a great tip about the breather covers: if you're having trouble removing them, you can use a heat gun to heat the old RTV (a little heat makes the RTV more flexible and easier to pry):
00:23 Diagnostics
02:00 Parts
03:05 Parts list, as replaced in the video
*Begin the Right side Valve Cover Job*
03:20 Right side valve cover gasket and notes on gasket fit
04:11 Remove the air filter box
05:38 Move the auxiliary coolant pump
06:17 Disconnect the MAF housing (7mm) and resonance baffle
06:36 Remove the bolts for the air duct and ATF dipstick (10mm, E10)
07:26 Disconnect the left side hose to the air duct (MB A112 018 0482)
08:34 Remove the air duct
11:02 Notes on the air duct clasps
11:24 Right side valve cover, closer look at the leaks and notes about cleaning
13:01 Disconnect the ignition coil electrical connectors
13:52 Disconnect the right side breather hose (MB A112 018 0382)
14:13 Remove the ignition coil bolts (T30)
15:07 Inspect the valve cover bolts
*Remove the Right side Breather Cover*
16:04 The right side breather cover is the same on the M112 (V6) and M113 (V8) engines
16:44 Shown on the V6: Remove the two breather cover screws (T25, if they are the original aluminum screws)
17:14 Break free all the valve cover bolts (E10) before removing the two long bolts
18:36 Remove the two long bolts from the breather cover
18:52 Remove the breather cover
*Remove the Right side Valve Cover*
21:00 Back to the V8 -- tips for removing the damaged fasteners
21:50 Break free all the valve cover bolts first
23:31 Remove the valve cover bolts (E10)
23:58 Remove the valve cover from the head
26:11 Clean the head surface after removing the valve cover
26:43 Look inside the valve train area
*Right side Valve Cover on the Bench*
27:19 Clean and inspect the valve cover
27:55 Inspect the breather passages on the cover
29:07 Clean the breather cover and mating surface
31:04 Inspect the old valve cover gasket
31:31 Install the new valve cover gasket
33:32 Clean the valve cover bolts
33:58 Clean the valve cover mating surface on the head
*Right side Valve Cover Installation and Breather Cover Re-seal*
33:58 Clean the valve cover mating surface on the head
35:00 Place the valve cover on the head and thread in a few bolts by hand
36:28 Check the gasket before installing all the bolts
37:40 Cut the RTV nozzle for the breather cover RTV application (thin 2mm bead)
39:10 Bleed the RTV (if necessary) and make a test line
39:34 Apply the RTV into the channel on the breather cover (thin 2mm bead)
41:51 Install the breather cover to the valve cover (new H4 screws MB 0000 0000 4436; torque is 35 inch-lbs)
43:02 Tighten all the valve cover bolts (final torque 80 inch-lbs; tighten the bolts in several passes, starting at the center on each pass and spiraling top/bottom out towards the ends)
45:36 Install the ignition coil bolts (torque is 70 inch-lbs)
46:27 Connect the ignition coil electrical connectors
47:01 Move the auxiliary coolant pump back into place
*Removing the Breather Hoses, right and left side*
47:12 Replace the breather hoses
and air distribution piece (MB A112 018 0209)
48:21 How to remove a broken air distribution tube from the throttle body (mine broke)
54:35 Remove the hose connectors to re-use them (MB A117 990 1578)
Begin the Left side Valve Cover Job
56:01 Left side valve cover overview
56:33 Depressurize the fuel system using the Schrader valve
59:56 Disconnect the fuel line (17mm)
01:00:56 Be prepared to collect about 1 cup of fuel
01:02:52 Disconnect the left side breather hoses (MB A112 018 0182, A112 018 0282)
01:04:32 Disconnect the ignition coil electrical
01:05:48 Remove the fuse box heat shield (two Philips screws)
01:06:27 Remove the ignition coil bolts (T30)
01:07:32 Clean the area around the valve & breather covers before removing the covers
*Remove the Left side Breather Cover*
01:08:02 Remove the breather cover screws (T25 if aluminum, H4 if stainless)
01:08:45 Break free the valve cover bolts (E10)
01:11:20 Remove the breather cover E10 bolts (three bolts on the V6, four bolts on the V8)
01:11:32 Remove/dislodge the breather cover from the valve cover
01:13:46 Remove the the remaining valve cover bolts (E10)
01:14:37 Remove the valve cover from the head
01:17:08 Inspect and clean the head
*Left side Valve Cover on the Bench*
01:18:14 Remove the old valve cover gasket and RTV; clean the bolt holes
01:20:26 Clean the breather cover channel and mating ridge
01:22:37 Inspect the old valve cover gasket
01:22:52 Install the new valve cover gasket
01:24:01 Clean the valve cover bolts
*Install the Left side Valve Cover and Re-seal the Breather Cover*
01:24:08 Clean the gasket surface on the head and place the valve cover onto the head
01:24:29 Install the valve cover perimeter bolts hand-tight
01:25:14 Check the valve cover gasket fit with a mirror
01:25:15 Apply the RTV to the breather cover channel and bolt holes (thin 2mm bead)
01:27:10 Install the breather cover to the valve cover
01:27:39 Install the new breather cover screws (H4, low torque, torque is just 35 inch-lbs)
01:28:55 Tighten all the valve cover bolts (final torque 80 inch-lbs; tighten the bolts in several passes, starting at the center on each pass and spiraling out to the ends)
01:31:28 Install the ignition coil bolts (T30, torque is 70 inch-lbs)
01:32:03 Install the fuse box heat shield (two Philips screws)
01:32:27 Connect the ignition coil electrical
01:32:49 How to replace the coil electrical connector, if needed (MB A203 545 2038)
01:38:50 Reconnect the fuel line (17mm, torque is 28 ft-lbs)
*Install the Breather Hoses and Air Duct Hoses*
01:39:45 Disassemble the left side hoses and remove the hose connector (MB A117 990 1578)
01:41:15 Connect the new left side hoses together (MB A112 018 0182, A112 018 0282)
01:41:52 Inspect the air distribution piece/hose tee, new design (MB A112 018 0209)
01:42:08 Connect the hoses to the air dist piece/hose tee
01:43:40 Install the new breather hoses as a unit (MB A112 018 0182, A112 018 0282, A112 018 0382)
01:47:18 Notes on the air duct gasket (use MB A112 159 0080 for the W163 throttle body)
01:48:53 Install the air duct but don't connect it yet (very tight fit on the V8)
01:54:04 Install the air duct breather hose (MB A112 018 0482)
01:55:21 Connect the air duct to the throttle body; take a closer look at the bottom latch
01:56:49 Connect the left side breather hose from the air duct to the breather cover
01:57:03 Install the bolts for the air duct (E10) and ATF dipstick (10mm)
01:57:19 Push the resonance baffle into place
01:57:32 Install the MAF sensor housing (7mm)
01:57:58 Install the air filter box
01:58:42 Install the air filter (part number Mann C30 195/2)
02:00:08 Final checks
02:00:34 Prime the fuel system by turning the key to ON, then OFF, twice; start it up and check for leaks
02:01:14 Final notes
*Parts list:*
*Valve covers for the V6 (M112) engine:*
Left side: A112 016 0221
Right side: A112 016 0321
*Valve covers for the V8 (M113) engine:*
Left side: A113 016 0221
Right side: A113 016 0321
*Parts for both the V6 and V8:*
Screws for the breather covers: MB 0000 0000 4436 (5 required)
Right side breather hose: A112 018 0382
Left side, long breather hose: A112 018 0182
Left side, short breather hose: A112 018 0282
Left side, breather hose to air duct: A112 018 0482
Hose Connectors: A117 990 1578
Hose Tee/Air distribution piece: A112 018 0209
Intake/throttle body gasket on the air duct (for W163): A112 159 0080
Ignition coil electrical connectors (if yours break like mine): A203 545 2038
*RTV for the Breather cover re-seal:*
Mercedes RTV (Loctite 5970): 00 398 998 2010
What I used: Permatex Ultra Black RTV
Also good: Loctite SI 5900
I hope this video was helpful.
Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
Awesome video! I'm about to do this job on my Mercedes and while going through your list of parts I noticed a typo on the part for the ignition coil connector. The correct part number is A203 545 3028. Hope this helps :)
Fantastic video,thank you❤
Thank you so much for your work and patience!!! I love you!!!!
Im a mechanic and i have to say... realy nicely done lady... best video i have seen so faar.. you aced it.
Wow, thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado I have a ml w270.. 5 inline disel turbo.. semes you dont have that in the states?
@@terjetodal117 No, I don't think the diesel W163's were sold here - maybe they could have been special ordered? There are other older diesel MB's, but a diesel W163 in the US is very rare!
Great job. If an Oscar was given to RUclips videos, you would surely receive it for the best DIY. Hello from Kazakhstan.
Wow, Kazakhstan? That's so cool! Hello from the USA : )
🇰🇿
I CONFIRM: TAKE BACK THE AIR DUCT, IS A REALLY PIN IN THE A... BUT PUT IT BACK IS WORSE...
IF I COULD GIVE YOU A MILLION "LIKE", I WOULD ! YOUR VIDEO IS ASTONISHING !
BEST CAR TUTORIAL VIDEO I HAVE EVER SEEN.
BEST EXPLANATIONS !
BEST DETAILLING !
AND BEST SWEET VOICE TO EXPLAIN THINGS...
AND YES, WE NEED A LOT OF PATIENCE TO DO THIS WORK AND REMAIN CALM...
THANKS A LOT FROM FRANCE.
A MERCEDES-BENZ COLLECTOR.
Thank you! : ) Yes, that air duct is a real pain! Great job on your DIY, and thanks for watching!
One of the best, if not the best detailed and genuine help tutorial. Looking for more videos like this. Thank you
Thanks! I have a few other videos on these M112/M113 engines on this channel, with more to come over time. Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching! : )
Hands down best repair video I have used. Ever on any car.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
The quality of RUclips videos goes all over the spectrum but I can tell by the planning and thoroughness of yours yours is pretty much at the top
And I'm dating myself but a female gearhead !
Cudos to you!
Thanks for the great video
Thank you - and thanks for watching! : )
Merry Christmas & Happy New Year, too! : )
Just wanted to say thank you for your videos. My husband has just bought me a 99 ML320 and although in great condition, it needs a little TLC. He says your tutorials are the clearest he has ever watched - and he's watched many over the years for various cars and bikes.
So really just to congratulate you on what you've done. Best wishes from the UK.
UK, cool! I'm so glad the videos are helpful! Thanks for watching, and thanks for keeping your ML on the road! : )
Excellent tutorial for a M112 and M113 engines valve cover gaskets job. Your attention to detail and explanations are great along with description of part numbers. Great video
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
With now four Mercedes with the M112 and M113 engines (CLK 320, ML 320, ML 350, ML 55), I keep coming back to this video whenever I pick a new one up and need to do gaskets. You have by far the best guides for them. Thanks!
Wow, thanks! You have quite an MB fleet, and that's great that they're all the M112/M113 engines. Please be sure to leave any of your tips! Thanks for watching and for keeping those MB's on the road : )
@@L35inColorado Thanks! I actually have a few more that aren't M112/3. '76 450SL, '83 300SD, '93 190E. Slowly getting a different letter class from every decade. But I like the diesel OM617 and these M112/3 the most. As for the M112/3 engines I haven't had much issue with them. Just the usual things like valve cover gaskets and power steering getting leaking and whiny. I've been through one transmission on a high mileage ML350 (254k) that from what I can tell was never serviced. The new transmission adapter plug is pretty critical to replace by this age and mileage they tend to have. I've also used the Salvox valve body sleeve kit and the Transgo kits with some success. I did splurge and get the STAR setup for scanning, which helped with some of the BAS/ESP systems.
I don't own a Mercedes, but I have no choice but to give a thump up and subscribe.
Your video, for w163 repair are life savers. Thanks. Now I do feel more confident doing my repairs myself all the way in Africa. You’re such a good teacher.
Wow, that is great, all the way from Africa! Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
2001 ML320 - I completed the work for Valve cover replacement and spark plugs and wires using this video. This is the most detailed available and includes the torque limits as appropriate. Thanks so very much to "L35 in Colorado"
Outstanding - great job on your DIY! Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching : )
Amazing. It was as if you were working beside me! Hoses snapped. I hit the brake booster cable while reaching MAF air intake clip (I see you have the red junction on yours so I assume that you broke it earlier). Was so proud I got that throttle body off cleanly until I was trying to get the old hoses off and snapped that small tube off in my hand. Another two day delay. All part of the journey. 😂 I cannot thank you enough.
Yes, these MB hoses and connectors are so brittle! MB should just buy those parts from Toyota already, haha. Thanks for watching, and I'm so glad the video was helpful! : )
Your use of plastic baggy to catch the fuel was genius. I was thinking about small cup or bowl. I saw another video use a towel. I decided on a 1 gallon ziplock baggy and caught every drop!
You are an excellent teacher. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Ciao from Canada
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Revisiting this video because I finally replaced my ignition coil locking connector clips on my w211 e55 Amg & installed NPboosted ignition coils . You gave me the idea while watching this video for my some maintenance I wanted to do on my w163 ML500 . I purchased 8 connectors on eBay $30 total . They are genuine Mercedes clips but I typed in sprinter van to get better prices because they can get pricey for a single clip if it you don’t shop around . As long as the part number is the same that’s all that matters . so THANKS for your detailed videos full on information!
Nice - great job! Thanks for adding your tips, and thanks for watching! : )
You are a god queen. Nice job, amazing detail. Gives us mere mortals courage to tackle this project.
We're all mere mortals, so we all help each other out! : ) All glory to God!
You can do it! Thanks for watching : )
You are very detailed person. The Best on RUclips !
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Great video! I'm currently doing both the breather covers and the valve cover gaskets on my Crossfire. I was so happy to see that they make replacements for the coil connectors!
I broke 3 out of 6 as well as the locking collar for the MAF sensor. The plastic is so old and fragile. Thank you for taking the time to make such a detailed video!
Oh yes, these MB plastic is just terrible with age! It gets far to brittle, especially as compared to Toyota plastic. Thanks for watching, and thanks for adding your tips! : )
Thank you for your excellent work instructions. Your Mercedes videos are the most detailed procedures (including part numbers, torque specs, tools) available on the web. You have saved me a lot of aggravation more than once!
Wow, I'm so happy to hear that the videos are helpful! : ) Thank you for your comment, and thanks for watching!
If you were to make a video on replacing the steering rack on the v6, I would love you forever. Can you imagine how the world would be if every mechanic wormed like this?
I'm sorry I missed your comment - if I do that steering rack job, I will record it for sure. Thanks for watching! : )
One of the most informative and detailed videos I have seen. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
I love how you are so thorough in your explanations.. Awesome videos. Make more!
Thank you - I will make more as jobs come up! Thanks for watching! : )
Great tutorial. This was by far the most DETAILED and well laid out video out there regarding this job. Really hope to keep seeing more W163 content on this channel as time goes on. You deserve more subs and views!
Especially for someone who has never done any major work on their car before, this video clearly explains everything and makes this type of job a lot more approachable with your careful explanations. A lot of the DIY videos online tend to skip over many of the basic things that maybe an experienced DIY home mechanic might already know but for a complete car noob like myself will 100% miss.
Also was a huge help with all the screw sizes & part #'s so I can prepare everything prior and order things that I will most likely end up breaking lol. Thank you again!
Thanks -- I appreciate that! I try to make the videos for everyone, regardless of experience level, because we all start out newbies! Be sure to watch other videos, too, to get extra tips, and just take your time and you'll be fine : ) Thanks for watching and good luck!
@@L35inColorado Do you have a link to the torque wrench you used in the video? Been trying to look for it
@@lv352 Yes -- The 3/8" drive compact torque wrench shown at 43:29 is the Icon 56614:
www.harborfreight.com/38-in-40-200-in-lb-professional-compact-torque-wrench-56614.html
The little 1/4" drive torque wrench shown at 42:26 is the Tekton TRQ21101:
www.tekton.com/1-4-inch-drive-dual-direction-click-torque-wrench-trq21101
The Icon is excellent -- I wish I would have bought it years ago (I didn't because it is expensive, but then I got a deal, so I bought it -- it is worth the store price even). For years I used the Pittsburgh 1/4" drive torque wrench (www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63881.html) to cover that approximate torque range, and that inexpensive Pittsburgh works just fine, long as you use it correctly.
But the Icon is so far superior to other torque wrenches for that range that I just really like it, and that's the only torque wrench I use now for that inch-lbs range! I love that Icon.
The litlte Tekton is also nice for very tight spaces or for very low inch-lbs applications, but it doesn't get as much use as that Icon, though it is a good little torque wrench.
I hope that helps!
@@L35inColorado perfect thank you so much!
The best complete instructions (with arrows).
You are perfection.
Thank you.
Thanks for watching! : )
Just finished replacing my valve cover and breather cover on my v6, this was the best resource I found and made it so straightforward. Thank you!
Wow, great job on your DIY! Thanks for watching : )
I have an 04 w163 and with the attempt to repair several items on my car with my own hands and going down the google and RUclips rabbit hole, your videos, by far, have been the most clear, concise, organized and informative I’ve come across. I can’t thank you enough! 🙏🙏🙏
Wow, thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
I just picked up a 2002 ML500 that has been sitting for a couple of years.
This video will help me immensely.
Great video.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH !
PERFECT VIDEO !
PERFECT EXPLANATIONS !
YOU ARE PERFECT !
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColoradoYOU ARE SOOOOO WELCOME ! I AM REALLY IMPRESSED BY YOUR WORK. I SEND YOU A FRIENDLY HELLO FROM FARNCE.... A MERCEDES-BENZ COLLECTOR
You have very good instructions sweetheart I was in the Marine Corps in charge of my shop and you are very good I appreciate you thumbs up👍🇺🇸
Wow, thanks! Thanks for watching, and thanks for being a Marine! : )
Thank you for making this video! This is an excellent video! This is probably the reference standard for gasket replacements on M112/M113 engines. Great job! Wish I had this as a reference before I did valve cover gasket twice. Once with aftermarket gaskets and another time with factory Mercedes gaskets. The aftermarket gaskets leaked within a month. The factory gasket is not leaking (it's been a year already) but the gasket is a bit wet around the half circle areas you mentioned in the video. Hasn't developed into a drip but if I ever do this job again, I may put a drop of rtv in those corners.
Thanks! There are a few other very good videos on this job on youtube; I just wanted to make a more complete video for those who haven't done it before, because this is a great DIY but can be a little intimidating for those new to auto repair. I agree about the MB gaskets: they are more expensive (basically twice the price), but they fit so well! Some say that VictorReinz makes them, but I can't confirm that, and I compared a VictorReinz gasket to the MB gasket and there was no contest -- the MB gasket was simply better.
And yes, I also debated about the RTV at the half-moons, and I decided to go without it: the main reason was because when I removed the gaskets on the V8 (which were MB gaskets too), they weren't leaking at that spot. So seeing as the new gaskets fit so well, I decided not to use the RTV there. But I don't think it is a bad idea to use a little RTV there, and I know that many have used it with success.
Thanks for your comment! Since you've done this job before, please leave any tips you'd like to add for others, and I can add them to the Pinned Comment. : )
Hey L35... Your videos are truly great. Your experience and detailed explanations, your camera work, added notes... I can't say enough about your abilities and effort! I have an '03 c320 I bought as a non-runner so I could learn about OBDII (LOL), and I make workshop (not cars) videos to show clients what I'm doing. Anyway, I so appreciate everything you have going on here, but I have to tell you I loooved the sketchy sketch! You teach and inspire on multiple levels. Thanks!
Thanks for the links. Yes a prayer and some divine intervention will definitely save the day.
I know it's information wayyyyyy too late, but when I do the breather covers a heat gun is my best friend.
EXCELLENT video as always !
Yes -- that is an excellent tip, and I will add your tip to the Pinned Comment! Thanks for sharing : )
You nailed it! Very useful. Everything explained, multi view angles and part numbers.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Super amazing work!! Just did mines and in comparison I did a mess!! Well done! Will continue to follow and learn from you as much as I can.
I'm sorry I missed your comment - thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you for such a great guide I’m planning on this job on my cl500 and this is just what I need. Thank you so much. Wonderful ❤🎉🎉
I'm so glad the video helps - Good luck on your CL500, and thanks for watching! : )
OH YEAH: BEST vid ever and I watch quite a few of these. Techniques are good to great but the documentation details are par excellent!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Excellent video. I completed the coil plug replacement and found that a tiny dab of dielectric grease in the holes allows wires the to slip in much easier.
Thanks for watching, and sharing your tips! : )
Well done with this video and keep up the good work! Very detailed and educational, following your step’s really eliminates making mistakes going through the job!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Happy New Year!
Great video , I’m doing spark plugs & ignition coils on my ml500 so I figured I would do this job while I’m in there
That's a great idea - get it all done and you won't have to be back in there for a long time! Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching : )
@@L35inColoradothe connector bit was my favorite because little things like that left unfixed bother me lol , going to buy some extra clips for my e55 when I install the new NPBOOSTED ignition coils for it !
Amazing 👏 I can't wait to do this job on my leaky burnt oil smell-in-the-cab 2002 Ml500
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
You are a master for detail. Thank you so much to upload that video. And your other video. Peace from Canada stay safe . Merci beaucoup
I'm sorry that I missed your comment - thank you, and thanks for watching, Merci : )
Excellent video with detailed explanations and easy to follow procedure for DIY folks, Thanks.
Thanks for watching! : )
Ahh when the student is ready the teacher appears. Appreciate it.
Thanks for watching! : )
Outstanding 💯😊
This is one of the best videos ever
Thanks! And thanks for watching : )
Excellent video. The best I have ever seen on the subject. Keep them coming on the ‘113
Thanks for watching! : )
cool! hello with respect from Belarus!
Wow, Belarus! Thanks for watching! : )
Top notch video THANK YOU a LOT
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you very much for your video, its the best i can find on youtube! the quality of your explanations is really very good. I will do this work on my ML with a lot more serenity now, thank you! (France).
Wow, thanks for checking in from France! Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado Merci a vous, c'est tellement généreux de partager ces informations avec une aussi bonne qualitée, merci
18:02 Excellent video. The valve cover gasket bolts look like they were way too tight as you removed them.
Excellent work as always. Thank you
Thanks for watching! : )
you make there best videos for this car thank you!
congrats on excellent teaching video as normally you do. going to use it when the times comes .Thanks for your effort providing the know how
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado no , THANKS YOU
All your videos are the reference standard for replacements on ML 163 ! Please , somehow do the vacuum break booster repair or replacement video ! May God bless you !
Thank you! If I ever do that job, I will record it : )
Thank you so much for making this video. You covered everything--great camera work, explanation, annotation, etc. And thank you so much for providing the part numbers. I watched it from beginning to end. Hope to be doing this in a few months on M112 on W210 (1999 E320).
I'm sorry I missed your comment - thanks so much! I try to put lots of detail in the videos. Good luck on your DIY, and thanks for watching : )
HEY thx for the video, you are a lifesaver
Do not know on V8 but on my V6 I did it without disconnecting fuel line and fuse box shield. Great video overall. And It is better to completely disconnect mass air flow sensor and put aside not to damage accidentally, also disconnect the battery.
Thanks for sharing your tips!
Do you have to disconnect the battery if only disconnecting the MAF sensor?
@@szymeklawik7636 When you working under the hood, it is always better to disconnect the battery for the safety.
@@Ravenola and that shouldn't bring up any error codes when reconnecting?
@@szymeklawik7636 No, disconnecting the battery (disconnect the negative terminal) won't cause any error codes.
Hello from France, I just finished the same job on my ML! thank you again, everything went well! I wait until tomorrow to start the engine and let the seal dry. thanks thanks thanks !
Great job on your DIY! Thanks for watching : )
great video on how to do valve cover, breather hoses, bookmarked for future reference = breather hoses updates on on 2000 M112/C280, tks
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Love your work!!! Thank you.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Awesome video, very detailed and easy to follow. Thank you for making it.
Thanks for watching - good luck! : )
Como siempre un excelente video para instruir a todos los que deseen o tengan que efectuar este trabajo con profesionalismo. Mis sinceras felicitaciones.
Thank you for the video tutorial, very helpful and informative. Tackled this job last week and my only advice would be, if the RTV is in a plunger type applicator, then go ahead and toss it into a caulk gun. Makes is so much easier to apply.
Thanks for the tip! Did you use the Mercedes or Loctite RTV? Does it fit in a standard caulk gun, or did you have to use a special caulk gun?
@@L35inColorado It was the full kit from AutoHauz and yes the applicator just slid into standard caulk gun. The tip was from one of the contributors at BenzWorld where I first saw your video. Best.
Excellent video, thank you so much for your time
Thanks for watching -- good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado I've got two to do! My CL55 and my SL55
Je suis très heureux de ce que vous faites excellent travaille ; explication, lumière , c'est un cours mécaniques pédagogique de référence. Je vous remercier beaucoup.
Thank you very much, greetings from Armenia, big like and subscribe
Wow, Armenia! That's very cool! Thanks for watching and thanks for subscribing : )
very educative. Thank you Regards
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you you’re awesome
Thank you for watching! : )
Thank you for the nice explanation and for your good work
Greetings to you from Yemen 🌹
Wow, Yemen -- cool! Thanks for watching, and good luck!
most thorough Thank you!
Excellent.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Thanks
Thanks for watching! : )
Lady you are the best
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Great video. I have a 2005 C240. Real pain to get access to those breather hoses because of the tight spots around the air distribution connector. The map sensor assembly is blocking access to the air distribution connector when the brittle hoses joint together . The MB dealer in Santa Monica charger 225 hour for labor only so about $1800. Not including parts. The labor for MB vehicle repair is very labor intense.
Oh wow, that's interesting - yes, it can really slow down the repair process when there are other components in the way, like you're describing. I hope everything goes well for your repair. Thanks for watching, and for sharing your knowledge about the '05 C240!
Man it'll take me a week to do all that 😅
Hey, there's nothing wrong with that! I like to take my time, too - and this is a big enough job (especially if you do both sides), that it is nice to just take your time and do it right. Thanks for watching! : )
39:30 BEFORE you open your new sealant if you immerse the tube in ultra-hot water (but not boiling) for like 10 minutes it'll flow out of the tube MUCH easier. You'll be glad you did. 😉
Excellent tip -- thanks for sharing! : )
Thanks for this video, my dealer doesn't even list the coil pack plugs part number :/
If you have a shop in nj I won’t go nowhere but you
I don't have a shop at all -- I'm just the family shadetree! (Big family) : ) But that's a nice comment, thanks - and thank you for watching!
I would have tried a screw extractor to pull the tube...may or may not work. Grinder to make stepped pulling tool also. I have done things like put a screw in the tube such that the head catches underneath like the pick tools.....then wedge in a stick carved to hold the screw head tight to one side so it can't slip out.....then pull the screw and tube and stick all out. I have manually moved throttle valves without damage, but I don't like it. There's a stepper motor on it and you can feel it moving. I usually move them some to clean them. I have also forced and held them wide open and put the shop vac on the intake as a blower to push air into engine.....turn engine until air is coming out the sparkplug hole you need to chase or time-sert and this way you can minimize chips left in cylinder (BMW M5) but the chips end up on you.
Nice - thanks for adding your tips, and thanks for watching! : )
THANKS SO MUCH.
I took the head off on the driver side and didn't see it . So it must be resting on the timing chain near the bottom of the engine block. I will try your suggestions and get a vacuum cleaner with a skinny hose for sucking oil out of the engine. Maybe with a camera i might be able to know at least where to point the hose on the vacuum cleaner. Do you have your shop in LA? If so, let me know and i will be one of your best customers.
There are boroscope cameras on Amazon for even as low as $20 or so, and yes I agree that a boroscope would be very helpful. If you have a shop vac, you can use a reducer kit like this, or as I mentioned just slip one hose inside another until its small enough:
www.amazon.com/Shop-Vac-906-87-00-Universal-Tool-Adapter/dp/B00004RHKU
I'll say a prayer that you find that screw! Good luck! : )
Thanks for the great video...have you done a video showing removal of the heads on W163?
Thanks - no, I've never removed the heads on any W163. Perhaps check the www.benzworld.org forum - there might be some tips there! Thanks for watching, and good luck : )
Thanks for the great videos as always! Is it necessary to replace the breather hoses and and air distribution piece when doing this?
Thanks! No, it is not necessary, but people often do replace those parts because they get brittle over time. But if they aren't brittle, they can be re-used. Thanks for watching! : )
thank.....
Thanks for watching!
1:00:00 I cut the bottom off of a water bottle and inverted it to drain and catch about one cup of fuel from this line. Therefore I skipped relieving the fuel pressure via the Schrader valve.
BTW, this job is identical to the V8 in my 2000 R129 SL500.
Thank you so much for adding that info!
The best thinc for you
You gave me the confidence needed to do this job myself. A huge thanks for that!
Quick question, do you really need to disconnect the fuel line?
Yes, on the driver's side, you do need to disconnect the fuel line because it is right in the way for removing/replacing the cover -- but as you can see, it is very simple to disconnect the fuel line! Just have a little container ready to catch the fuel, and you'll be fine. You can do it -- good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado Thank you so much, again!
@@L35inColorado And I will do it for sure! Gonna change the spark plugs while I'm there! Just got this beautiful low-mileage ML55 that needs some love... Your videos make it so much easier thus more enjoyable to do it myself! Especially finding part numbers, torque specifications and a calm and detailed overview of the work in a single video is incredible!
@@nickcsuki8123 Wow, an ML55 -- that's great! Sounds like it is in good hands with you and it'll get some love -- good luck, and thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado I got really lucky as there was plenty of room to take the valve cover off without taking the fuel line off! Don't know why, I thought because mine was bent, but now I see yours is too! It seems like mine was seated a litter higher though...
I just bought one of these with the M113 engine. What socket, extension kits, etc do you recommend for an ML first timer? I do work on older european cars, but I don't have a single E series socket for example. Thank you for the fantastic video BTW!
Congrats! Mechanically, these ML's aren't difficult to work on, but the electronics can be a bit of a headache. As far as tools - you'll just need the normal set of ratchets, extensions, metric sockets, etc, for working on cars in general, and then as you mentioned, you'll need some E/external torx and T/internal torx sockets. I have a couple sets of E sockets, and these are my favorite - especially for the price!
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFJD53J
You'll also need the more common "star" or T/torx sockets, because those fasteners pop up all over the engine and body, such as here:
ruclips.net/video/eyHyleOfdLQ/видео.html
You'll want at least a basic Torx internal and external sets. I don't have this particular set, but for the price it's got a lot of sockets you'd use on an M112/M113:
www.amazon.com/MIXPOWER-External-Professional-Motorcycle-Mechanic/dp/B08ZJ56Z9W
There's a specialized wrench for the plug wires, if you plan on doing that job - it is not necessary, but makes the job a lot easier (since there's 16 plugs on the M113!):
www.amazon.com/EWK-Remover-Installer-Wrench-Mercedes/dp/B00H95I5EM/
Like any engine, there are those little things that pop up where you'll find yourself having to buy a new tool. I do recommend always using a torque wrench on these engines, too, because they are made of alloys that can be unforgiving if something is over-torqued!
I hope that helps - have fun with your new ML! Thanks for watching : )
@@L35inColorado This is VERY helpful! Thank you so much again! I look forward to more videos as they come along!
Merci madame pour ces conseils j ai une voiture w 163 mercedes veuillez de faire un vidéo sur les changements de lampes ordinaires avec des led pratiquement le tableau de bord I am from Algéria contry merci
I don't speak French but I used Google translate to understand your comment: Have you seen this video, linked below? It shows how to remove the instrument cluster and the bulbs. You can follow the steps in that video, then install LEDs. Just remember with LEDs that they are diodes (LED = light emitting diode), which means that they are polarized. So LEDs have a positive and negative side. If you install the LED and it doesn't illuminate, then just remove it and re-install it the opposite way and it should illuminate:
ruclips.net/video/a4k5lVORwCU/видео.html
I hope that helps! : )
I love your instructions and subscribed. Just wondering if you have done work on Audi Q7 2006 V6 TDi?
Thanks for your comment, and thanks for subscribing, too! No, I haven't done work on any Audi other than some minor interior components/interior electrical some years back. Thanks again for watching : )
Hi thank you. Do you have an idea where i can find a list of recommended tools needed for this job?
All the tools used are shown in the video; as far as I remember, the specialized tools are the E-sockets (external torx), which are commonly required for MB repairs. If you don't have such as set, I can recommend these:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFJD53J
Other than those, the tools are general automotive/DIY tools such as ratchets, extensions, etc. I also highly recommend to use a torque wrench, if possible.
I hope that helps - good luck! : )
Do you have video on oil pan gasket replacement?
No, I don't have a video for the oil pan gasket, but if I do that job, I will record it : ) Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this. A mechanic changed both my gaskets and now there's a check engine light and a burning smell. Do you know why this might be happening?
Wow, I'm sorry that's happening - if you don't have a scanner, you can have the Check Engine light code read for free at most auto parts stores such as Autozone, O'Reillys, Advance, Carquest, etc (if you don't want to return to the mechanic and have them read it first).
If the Check Engine light came on right after the repair, my first guess would be that they forgot to re-connect one of the many hoses that they would have needed to disconnect to complete the repair. If that's the case, they will be able to tell with the code because it would show a vacuum leak somewhere.
As for the burning smell: the best case scenario that I think of is that often doing this repair, oil drips onto the exhaust manifold. Once the manifold heats up, the oil burns and there's a burning oil smell - but that should go away fairly quickly unless there was lots and lots of oil that leaked there and wasn't cleaned up. There are other things, though, that aren't so simple that could cause a burning smell, so you want to get that checked out.
In summary, I would probably have the code read at Autozone, etc, and write down the code or take a picture with your cellphone. Don't have Autozone clear the code - just have them read it. Then I'd return to the shop and ask them to review their repair. Hopefully it's an easy fix!
I hope that helps : ) Good luck!
@L35 in Colorado thank you very much for your feedback. I will bring it in to be scanned. Drove it around the block and it stalled and started sputtering. Thankfully, I am not far from an autozone or mechanic.
Can I ask an unrelated question? I'm trying to remove the space saver spare tyre carrier on my W163 so I can clean it up but have no idea how it comes out... Any ideas?
Thank you for this awesome video. which sparkplugs would you use on these M112 ?
Thanks! Regarding the spark plugs: I don't have an opinion, and I know it is hotly contested topic among M112/M113 enthusiatists, particular between Bosch and NGK and Beru. Double-check me, but I believe the MB part number is A004159190326, which was either NGK or Bosch as OEM when the engines were original made. Check out the forums (especially www.benzworld.org) to see what others are recommending, based on their driving conditions.
I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )
السلام عليكم عندي هذه السياره تشتغل وعند التنمير تنطفي ما هي الاسباب التي فيها وصوتها عالي تشتغل بصوت عالي ولم فيها اي سحب ارجو الرد
At 50:00 , may consider using a heat gun to soften the plastic and pull it out easier.
Thanks for the tip!
Same applied to heat up and remove the hardened old gasket on the valve cover to avoid damaging the metal.
Hi L35 in Colorado: can you send me a link for that nifty torque wrench. i dont have a good in-lbs torque wrench..You are the best!!
I think my favorite inch-lb torque wrench is this one - it's expensive, but it's a great torque wrench:
www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-40-200-in-lb-professional-compact-click-torque-wrench-56614.html
I also have this one, which I also really like:
www.tekton.com/1-4-inch-drive-dual-direction-micrometer-torque-wrench-trq21101
I think both of those are shown in the video. The main differences between the two are:
- the Tekton is 1/4" drive and the Icon is 3/8" drive;
- the Tekton is smaller;
- the Tekton range is 10 - 150 inch-lbs and the Icon is 40 - 200 inch-lbs.
I have both because I mostly use the Tekton for the lower range (10 - 40 inch-lbs) or for tighter spots (it's quite small!). But it is rare that I encounter such low torque values. I use the Icon much more often.
That said - for years I used the famous "$10 Pittsburgh" 1/4"-drive torque wrench (they're not $10 anymore, but they're still a value)! My 1ZZ-FE engine rebuild was accomplished with all Pittsburgh torque wrenches, in fact. So, if you're not on the market for an expensive torque wrench like the Tekton or Icon, the Pittsburgh works well, too! With the Pittsburghs, you just need to be more attentive to the "click" and need to be attentive to the locking device on the end of the handle:
www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/14-in-drive-20-200-in-lb-click-torque-wrench-63881.html
I hope that helps! Maybe some day I'll do a torque wrench video because I have quite a few these days and I am kinda a torque values fanatic, haha : )
Hi do you have to number the coil packs? Thank you for the video
You certainly can number the coil packs if you remove them altogether and that keeps you organized, but if you're keeping them connected to the spark plugs (as I am doing in the video), then it is apparent how they fit back onto the valve cover because you're just removing the mounting screw, and they will only reach to their proper spots. I hope that helps : )
Thanks for the reply. Are the six coil packs the same? Reson I ask because I removed but did not numbered them. I assume the coil packs are the same
@@MarioMaresSr Yes, they are the same - in fact, one way of troubleshooting misfires is to swap a coil pack from one cylinder to another to see if the misfire is due to the spark plugs or due to the coil pack. The coil packs are interchangeable because they are all the same - here's the MB part info: mbparts.mbusa.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-ignition-coil-000158780380
I hope that helps : )