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The Secret to a Clean Engine (Mercedes M113 & M112 Valve Cover)
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- Опубликовано: 29 апр 2023
- This is the Secret to a clean Engine (M113 & M112 Valve Cover Gasket replacement), These 2 Mercedes Engines are notorious to leak oil and drop oil on exhaust manifold and ultimately smoke coming from engine compartment and burnt oil smell from the AC vents.
The Rocker cover / gasket for these v6 and V8 engines are not the best design and after few years and some thousands kilometers they start leaking oil.
These engine are used in the bellow cars:
M113 Valve Cover Gasket replacement
M112 Valve Cover Gasket replacement
500E
E500
SL500
CLK500
S500
CLK55
CL500
CL55
C55
E55
#Mercedes #Benz #MercedesBenz #CLK500 #CLK320 #A209 #C209 #W209 #Sl-Class #SL500 #BenzAddiction
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/ benzaddicti. .
Thank you for watching and subscribing.
Not so hard, a bit long and messy project but so satisfying at the end, I highly recommend this and have seen many of these M113 and M112 Engine dirty engines due to the valve cover leak. Doing this along with the spark plug replacement (12 for M112 and 16 for M113) will save you literally $1000 in cost as these 2 projects are labor intensive... Good luck and please share your experience. Thank you.
I've owned 4 cars with the M113 and none of them leaked...
@@dingdong2103 lucky 👨
@@BenzAddiction Maybe :) I still have a 2003 W220 S500L 4-matic with 100k miles on it, dry as a bone...
I love doing this myself though. I can't remember the last i pay mechanic to repair my car.
My ML430 has milky deposit on oil cap, time to give it a clean out with this procedure. I will find one relax weekend to do it.
I’ve done these so many times, I can literally do them in my sleep. I always recommend having all those breather hoses replaced as they already come in a kit.
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Can this cause rough idle? I don’t have any vacuum leaks from hoses
Most likely your rough idle is a bad egr valve it’s a common thing that goes bad I herd or your breather valves are plugged up cause there are little holes that let exhaust gases through into the main valve covers .
where did you get the parts? for the screw? on the top of the manifold?
@@talklacey664 where did you get all of the hoses?
Good job ! I have done this on two CLK320's and a CLK55AMG , it is a long process if you want it done right.
My only tips , the breather cover bolts should be replaced with stainless steel bolts to minimise corrosion , and I would use only 3Nm to ensure that the magnesium cover threads don't strip. Also clean out the thread holes of any old sealant so the new bolts go in ok.
This job is normal maintenance on these engines after around 15 years or so.
Another thing you should do is replace the Crank Position Sensor , they also need replacing every 13 years , regardless of mileage.
Use genuine or Bosch only.
Also replace the air filters and cabin filter , which are always neglected.
Very good tips, thank you so much.
Would there be a mfg date printed on the crankcase or crankshaft position sensor. If yes, easier to make the decision to change it or not.
@whlawson probably not very related to this topic and I have another video on this but if you ask AI this question about the expiry date on any cam or crankshaft sensors it would say: No, the Mercedes W209 crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensors do not have an expiration date. However, they can fail due to a variety of reasons such as wear and tear, damage, or electrical issues. Routine maintenance and timely replacement of these sensors can help prevent failure and ensure smooth operation of the engine. It is recommended to consult a certified Mercedes technician for proper diagnosis and replacement of faulty sensors.
@@BenzAddiction recently I bought a set of PCV & hoses for my mechanic to change out during oil change for supercharger.
It turns out the previous owner had changed it out as the mfg date printed on the old PCV valve is 2+ years after the car's registration date.
So if there is a mfg date on the position sensor I will not buy a new one until I could verified that the mfg date of old sensors on my W211. If it is mfg in 2011 or later then no need to replace it for the time being.
@whlawson yes, good preventive measure to replace if they are so old. I keep 1 of each in my Glove Box, not difficult to replace.
For the breather covers, it’s important to allow the sealant to cure for 20 minutes or so before reinstalling them on the valve covers. This allows the liquid to set a stronger bead against the metal as you torque the bolts tight.
Very very correct, I am sure I have tightened those bolts in 3 stages...
So put the sealant on, then wait 20mins before putting the cover back on?
@@gangalee83 Getting ready for this job myself. Hopefully someone responds, but it seems like you install the breather cover after the silicone, install the bolts for alignment, but don't tighten. The silicone has time to form up and then when tightened fully, it will be firm instead of squishing out. I am just getting that from the context of the two comments, and thinking about it. Like I said, hopefully someone affirms this.
Great job man, love the attention to detail ! but if your pcv hoses are so bad that you're afraid they are going to crack, you really should replace em
Thanks mate...
I got about halfway through this video thinking it was the m112 and Wondering why it looks oddly big and i just now realized its the m113 😂 maybe 2am isn't the hour to be researching this. On a side note though this is an amazing tutorial and i feel confident i can do this!!
Haha, thanks mate, the process is same for both engines :)
Amazingly Well Done Video! Thank you for all your efforts to detail, comment and give great ideas to be successful in this work!!!
Thanks mate :)
So, I watched your video prior to attempting this on my W211 E500.
However, when I got into mine I found that you don’t need to remove the coil packs, spark plugs, fuel rail, etc. Just shift the coil packs around to reach the bolts and replace the plastic hoses on the breather covers. The coil packs, when shifted down far enough, allow the valve covers to clear out of the car, the only connections I had to disconnect was the coil pack harness and the fuel line at the back.
Hopefully this comment saves someone else a few extra hours of work.
Thanks mate.
@@BenzAddiction no, thank you! Your video made cleaning the engine and valve covers quite easy and targeted. You’ve got the most comprehensive video of this job on RUclips, so you deserve props for that!
@@bleachstain9785I have done this by simply leaving the coils hanging on the plug wires. I have slightly bent the fuel connection up a bit and now the cover can be installed without disconnecting that. Before bolting, use a mirror to make sure gasket is in position esp at the back lower corners. My PCV covers were sealed on with RTV (ultra black or ultra coper)long ago and it leaked (may have been a long time). Now I only use the 'Right Stuff.' The 'Right Stuff' costs more but is much more like the OEM sealants. It is the only thing I use on critical jobs now. It is much harder when cured, like the stuff when you are the first to pop a factory cover off.
Also, while this is apart, don't forget to check the integrity of the gaskets at the MAF and at the elbow to the throttle body. Clean the MAF, too. Two new pliable rubber gaskets are not that expensive and are well worth the time and effort, especially if they have never been replaced.
Great tip, thank you 👍
@@BenzAddiction Thanks for the tip; just inherited a 98 c280 with the m112 and over 255k miles and I doubt it's ever been done.
@@anonynmously it makes a difference in the smell of interior ;)
That was an EXCELLENT tutorial. Great work. I haven't done the gaskets yet, but when I do, I will have your video right in front of me the whole time! Thanks!
Thanks David, this is a great project, it really pays back 😉
Very well explained, and good tip to apply heat to the valve cover hose
Thanks mate :)
Its a 17 mm wrench to remove the spark plugs wires bro, and they sell one online specifically for that, has a gooseneck end and it makes it effortless, did mine after 180k miles and it was a piece of cake
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I recently did plugs on a 99 E320 and left the coil packs on and were able to get the plug wires off just using my hands. Though I have pretty strong hands from 30+ years working on German cars. I admit they are on there pretty well but it is still possible remove them even with using a tool to help and not having to remove the coil packs.
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Thx 4 this video! Didn't know about the breather gaskets.
You are welcome 😊
Great video, very helpful! Thanks
Thanks for Watching 👀
Thanks to this one of your well planned work; Your instructions are always clear and simple to understand and execute. I think you have already captured me as a Fan,😊 You Benz Addict! Ha ha ha!
Great to hear and this makes me really happy. Thanks mate, enjoy your Benz and please stick around as more videos are coming. 😉
Very clear instructions
Thank you.
Thanks for this video - I do a lot of Benz videos too - I've always struggled with the covers getting them to seal and not leak. I clean the same method as you - great. I will try the staged torquing next time - 5nm and 8nm stage 2 :) Its definitely a lot of work but if patient, will ensure don't have to rework :)
Thanks mate, good luck with the project, I now have to do this on my M112 CLK320 after 2 years, I think the gaskets are not the best quality either...
@@BenzAddiction Yeah I agree - I only buy genuine gaskets now, i've heard others say the OEM ones aren't always as thick and suitable... So i'm curious to see when I use a new genuine seal plus your method here if I can seal her for good :)
@@thatmatty231guy Really curious about whether MB revised the part or in the aftermarket folks just missed on the tooling for the left hand side gaskets.
@@rsulka Yeah - I think the part no is still the same its always been :/ But maybe its the tooling they use.
Because i've since used GENUINE gaskets again, and carefully done them up and they're dry as the desert! :)
Thanks for your video. I am going to do mine later.
It is a messy job to do but at the end very pleasing and satisfying...
Wow what a good, knowledgeable video this is. Thanks!
Thanks mate.
Best practice is to torque starting from the center and work out.
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Yep, the only tiny mistake I saw
Thanks a lot for the video! Can you tell me why is it important to let the adhesive set before torquing down the small cover please?
My theory is that, you don't want to remove all the adhesive out by tightening at the first stage.
Very well explained thanks sir
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Thank you so much for making this Vid! It help me a lot and I take me my time to do this work....
Glad it helped 👍
The worst is an oil cooler drip because it lands on the belt and slings oil everywhere
Wow, yeah...
Have just yesterday bought a near mint C320 Sports Coupe with only 59000 miles. Both covers have very slight leaks, and this maintenance will be my first job. This video gives great information, so thanks very much!
One question, I'm hoping I won't have too much gunk to clean, but does it only accumulate on the insides of the covers, or will it also need cleaning off inside the head? And what's best to do that with?
Thanks again, and I've subscribed to your channel as I'm sure I'm going to need more of your information in the future.
You are welcome and good luck 👍
Thank you for sharing this video. I just got gifted a 1999 E320 with a 100,000 miles on it and I have seen the excess oil which shows up on your motor like mine and I was wondering where it was coming from. With your video now I know. Please keep the videos like this coming so I can be more informed about the motor and car I have. And also did not know that a V6 had 12 spark plugs. Just like my little 2.3 Ranger has eight spark plugs on a 4-cylinder motor. I'm drunk I am talking too much I will let you go thank you
Thanks mate, sure, I have few playlists on the maintenance of M112 and 722.6, so feel free to have look at the channel, cheers 🍻
Thanks for the guidance! I need to do some of these things as well (Sensors…) with my W211 M112. Viele Grüße aus Deutschland! 😉
You are welcome mate. My CLK runs perfectly after those sensors changes...
Nice video. Thumbs up!
I might add that if you have used a good synthetic oil like mobil 1 the inside of that valve cover would be spotless. I recently replaced the valve cover gasket on my M119 SL 500 at 236,000 miles and it looked brand new
it has had mobil1 since the new as has my 2000 E430 with the M113. I suspect my M113 engine looks similar
I think with FSS aren't they recommending synthetic oil? But anyway a nice video and well presented - thank you
Thanks mate, regular oil change is super important. My M112 CLK320 inside the valve covers looks brand new too.
very educative. Thank you regards
Thanks for watching :)
Thanks a lot this is really helpfull
Thanks for Watching 👀 🙂
M112 - Had to re-seal one side. Fix it once and it's done. Not too big a deal.
Easy ... 👍
Amazing video, I am unsure that you did the bolts up in the right order, as usually you work from the middle outwards in a zig zag fashion, to avoid twisting the cam cover, haven’t got a service manual, so cannot confirm this but would seem wise
Thanks mate, eventhough the final torque spec is 8 NM, the gradual tightening of the bolts matters even more...
Replace all lines when going after the valve covers plan ahead on repairs
Very good tip, these get brittle and break upon replacing gaskets 👍
Excellent Video - Thanks
Thank you.
What’s the best way to clean inside of the valve covers ??
Lots of degreaser...
Nice tutorial, thanks for that, but I have to correct the torque specs, because MB manual says to torque T10 screws to the 9 Nm. 8 Nm is for coil packs. ;) For those aluminium screws it is 4 Nm and they should be replaced and also should be aluminium. If you replace them with stainless steel, the torque is out of specs and you can simply demage the thread in valve cover. MB put this screw material in for the particular reason, so...
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That's not really how it works. If the female thread holds an aluminum screw, it will hold a steel one better. The same torque spec will be fine. See Shigley, Mechanical Engineering Design to learn more about threaded fasteners esp preload and how the threads distort during loading.
@@rsulka OK, no problem, do it your way, but MB has this combination of the materials and specifications from some reason.
Great Job, done perfectly
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@@BenzAddiction not perfect. one tiny mistake
Thanks for the info
You are welcome.
I have a w210 E280 with the M112, and the gaskets are leaking so bad the car is misfiring, so this is something I know needs to be done.
This oil leak might end up with the spark plug holes being filled with oil and misfiring.
Is the procedure the same for the 3.2L V6 on the R170 SLK320, the M112?
Same for any M112 and M113
Do you use gasket maker in between the valve cover and new mercedes benz gasket? Does Mercedes Benz recommend using a sealant between them?
Yes I did, only a small amount to hold the gasket in place.
I’ve changed my valve cover gaskets on my w203 c32 amg followed the same process with the right torque specs ( cleaned the block, made sure the gasket is in place, used rtv at the tricky corners)and its still leaking from the lower part after replacement its making me crazy tho any suggestions ???
Usually, it leaks from the breather covers, that's the most tricky ones. It is important to check for vacuum leaks in the whole system too.
@@BenzAddictionive checked the breather its 100% sealed…. It’s leaking from the rubber gasket (half moon area)
Can you do a video on replacing the 02 sensors on m113 engines?
I wish I could my friend, unfortunately I am so busy these days with work, study and life... I am sure there are videos on this on RUclips.
You should’ve replaced the breeder hoses ass well because they crack
Good video
I did :)
Interestingly, I have never done the hoses it's been 22 years and and I even set the da*ned engine on fire and the hoses are still supple and not cracked. Every time I look at them I suspect I'll find a split due to hoop-stress tension....but no.
15:30 did you forget to put gasket maker on the longer grove in the middle ??
Not sure mate, might have missed it, though what I show in a 20 min video usually is not what I really finish the work with...
Do you use gasket maker in between the valve cover and new mercedes benz gasket? Does Mercedes Benz recommend using a sealant between them?
Hi, thank you for thes wideo is very help me. What is the bolt size in mm ?
Thank you, Mercedes bolt and nuts are all metrics, not imperial.
Another great vid and congrats on the new acquisition! Did you need to replace any of the bolts with new ones or just re-use the existing old ones? Looking forward to the next video! Cheers
Thank you my friend, the 5 x aluminum Torx screws on top of the breather covers need to be replaced, the rest are re-useable.
The five bolts need to be aluminium (genuine) stainless steel. The covers are made from titanium and steel bolts will cause bad corrosion. Correct torque specification is 4Nm for the five breather cover bolts.
Hello, my M112 C320 is not holding the fuel in the line, every cold start, I have to turn the ignition at least 3 times to pump the fuel so the start won’t delay so much. What do you think it can be? Fuel pressure regulators or something in the fuel pump?
ruclips.net/video/KZFY8CYcVlw/видео.html
My neighbor C240 won't start until u remove the oil filler cap.after you replace oil filler cap engine shuts down
Is the engine worn? How many Ks on the engine? Excessive gasses pass throught the compression rings?
Very detailed. i like it
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I reseal the pcv cover and it start to leak, gonna do it again. btw, those 5nm bolt are extremely easy to strip, and the cover is very easy to snap if it's recently sealed
Yes, tricky...
Replace the screws and/or be extra careful. Use Yamabond, The Right Stuff, OEM factory, hondabond, threebond, etc. I used the best regular RTV (ultra black or ultra copper) and it leaked after a long time. The ones I named first are different.....they are the harder, less rubbery, more crumbly (when you clean it out), less stretchy (when removing) than the regular (even premium 'ultra' and 'more oil resistant') types of RTV. I would also recommend the right stuff when gluing up critical things like automatic gearbox, bevel gear, transfer cases, newer final drives (the old style axles with the big flange seal fine with the old rubbery RTV)
That engine needs oilchange more often , mine dont look like that on the inside .
Agreed, I have a plan to change oil every 2k km for the first 10k km.
They're called valve covers, and the "secondary" ones you called em, are the breather covers
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Cylinder Head Covers.
Trying to do this, only for me to see that one of the aluminium bolts is broken and is just sitting there with a kinda glue holding it.
How do I remove the broken piece from the engine block?
Also, will I have to buy a gasket for the valve cover or just make use of the gasket maker?
Wire cutter is easy removal tool my friend...
Hi. Thanks for your very useful video. Would a penetrating oil like Bulldog BDX help remove those cables? Or an offset spanner?
Hi my friend, I think plug spanner would be a better idea.
Good job mate
Thank you John :)
@@BenzAddiction it'll be a good project with pretty low kms
@John Yes, gradually will get there, replaced the 20 years old spark plugs, oil and filter and no check engine light as replace the accelerator pedal hopefully an update video soon.
Do you have any idea why did they used aluminium bolts? Is it safe to swap them with a steel or stainless steel ones? I hate one-time-use parts.
If you overtighten aluminium, you will strip aluminium thread, if you overtorque steel, you will strip Magnesium made covers.
Because they are morons. Honestly, they probably wanted the assemblies to meet 'easy recycling' criteria but instead they just increased the demand for non-critical aircraft aluminum screws in a situation where the dismantler could quickly and easily zip out steel screws. Bad engineering like the rest of the car.
Ha, that was the reason why my mechanic charged 600 bucks to fix the valve cover gasket of one bank of my M113.
Wow, that's a lot of money...
I have to re-do it again. Very annoying. The work is straight forward but it's still a pain in the 4ss because if you torque it slightly wrong or if it is not clean enough it will leak again. Plus I have a gasket from the manufacturer Elring which is too narrow and leaves a gap. Poor quality. It drips like crazy, I'm so pissed.
I know it is so tricky... that's why I am stressing in the video...
It will leak again because of design error. The gaskets are barely adequate. Modern domestic use same sealing methods and the (factory) gaskets can be reused many times and the aftermarkets also don't leak but swell up too much to easily reuse.
After trying six times I finally got it shut. I found the place where the oil creeped between the cover and the gasket and added some RTV to that spot. But only a tiny amout, too much RTV will warp the gasket and create another leak. It's an artform by that point.
@haramaschabrasir8662 exactly my issue was that too first time.
U dont need to remove the spark plug cables, just remove the coil packs out of the way. those spark plug cables aren't in the way.
That's one way too, if sparkplug replacement is not needed...
if you do not use the dealership gaskets it will leak again. also paint the covers to keep the corrosion down
Thank you for the tips 👍
Paint?
Any particular paint you want to suggest!
@@olatundeabiri7048 high temp primer and paint
@@olatundeabiri7048 silver mat high heat paint?
@@olatundeabiri7048 pink
You rocker arms are very clean. How often do you change the oil? My rocker arms are yellow with 15k km oil changes.
Thanks, The car in the video, I bought a month before making the video, but in practice for my M112 I change every 10K or 1 year.
Did you need to recover and refill the A/C refrigerant ?
No.
Do you have to remove the spark plugs for this job?
No. But it's easiest to replace them at this time.
I love my C240 but the interior plastics and foam material for the roof liner and various stuff don’t stand time especially in the sun and that ircs me hard because my 99 mustang does not have this problem, those cars have more a fitment issue on the plastics(gaps) if anybody knows where to get good aftermarket plastics/interior parts pls send me info, id like to keep this little 6spd for as long as I can
Easy fix: ruclips.net/video/YSd0GUCLq8w/видео.html
@@BenzAddiction now I just gotta figure out how Im gonna get it out of a 4d 😩
@@JoJoFlare yeah, I know
I have oil on my spark plugs. Are the tube seals the issue?
Most likely your valve cover gaskets are leaking, aren't they?
What you do about the sludge?
After 2 close oil changes, all cleared now ...
😎🤔👍 VERY GOOD! THANKS!
You are welcome
Do you have to remove the plugs to do the gasket or just the packs?
Coil packs only, but recommended to replace the Plugs as well if it is about the time, makes it easier, saves time.
If that's as clean as you can get those valve covers on that CLK430 look at these
Awesome 👌
What about the M275? Same issues?
Hello, sorry never had the opportunity to have a car with M275 but there is an article here if you like: lifeonfour.co/buyers-guides/mercedes-benz-m275-engine-reliability/
@@BenzAddiction thanks … recently got a R230 SL600…. But I’m still a massive M113 engine fan boy… love that engine. Got 3 cars with that engine … 👍🏼👌
@BobBenz55 yes M113 is great and even M112 brings smile to my face every time. Keep the Benzes running and yourself driving and have fun.
Why does every single video on replacing these parts, not show u half the prep work?
Did I show it?
The best way for remove spark plugs is use the proper tool.
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Bruh, youre supposed to just replace those breather hoses, there's a whole kit for the valve cover service, comes with both valve covers the PCv breather hoses and the connections , and yhe breather covers screws that ure supposed to replace
I did, check few videos after...
Whats a link for the aluminum screws I can only find stainless steel
@@keeganschultz5331 plain steel, bright zinc finish, any strength grade (4.8) will be fine.
Yeahh woth how dirty especially ure covers were u shouldve replaced yhe pcv hoses, theyre forsure.covered in oil, thatd what Mercedes says is required too as well lol
I did after.
They are covered in oil because their job is to transport oil (vapor) to the intake.
Tha aluminum bolts for the breather covers must be replaced with the same aluminum bolts from Mercedes and not steel bolts. The reason is that these covers are made of magnesium, and steal in contact of magnesium causes oxidation, further deteriorating the cover bolt thread, loosing the cover and gasket causing earlier oil leak. Also, for these covers, don't use any other liquid gasket but the one from Mercedes. If you do, you'll regret as I did.
Thanks mate, I will check this every few month.
I think aluminum is more electronegative than magnesium and steel fasteners are typically used on both aluminum and magnesium (old motorcyles) housings.
@@rsulka tell Mercedes' engineers about that.
Has someone tried to make a deal gasket 😂
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What do you do use to clean this
I used degreaser, petrol and lot of scrubbing with brush.
Thank you so much for the video.
My question is , while you have all this open , why not change the valve stem seals as they are prone to leak ?