Mercedes W163 ML500 ML350 Water Pump, Thermostat, Tensioner, Idler Pulley FULL DIY also M112, M113
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2022
- This video is a full DIY for the water pump, thermostat, tensioner and idler pulley on Mercedes Benz M112 and M113 engines. The job shows this work on a W163 2005 ML500 and applies to other models with the M112 (V6) or M113 (V8) engines. Check the Pinned Comment for more information.
Timestamps, Part Numbers, Torque Values, other relevant Video Links:
00:23 Diagnostics and overview
04:00 Two different Water pumps - how to determine your pump type
05:35 Disconnect battery (for models with an
electric fan)
06:00 Drain the coolant (7mm)
07:56 Remove fan shroud fasteners (10mm)
09:05 Disconnect the upper radiator hose (7mm)
10:14 Disconnect the electric fan for models so equipped (10mm, 13mm)
11:34 Remove oil dipstick
11:45 Notes if you have a fan clutch (36mm,
counterclockwise to loosen)
Link to the Fan Clutch Video mentioned:
• Mercedes ML350 Remove ...
13:08 Remove or lower the fan shroud
15:08 Loosen the four water pump pulley bolts
(10mm)
15:38 Remove the belt (17mm feature, turn
counterclockwise)
18:20 Remove the secondary air pump (optional step,
E10)
19:23 Remove the thermostat (E10)
21:56 Remove MAP sensor bracket (E10)
23:12 Remove the idler pulley (T50, part INA
5320160100 or MB A000-202-09-19)
23:53 Make a water pump bolt template
25:11 Remove the alternator bolt (E14)
25:46 Disconnect the hose at the water pump from aux coolant pump
(7mm)
27:38 Disconnect the oil cooler hose (for models so equipped)
28:20 Remove the 14 remaining water pump bolts:
- there are four E12 bolts and ten E10 bolts remaining
- place each fastener in the correct spots on your
bolt template
31:56 Remove the water pump from the timing case cover
33:58 Remove the water pump gasket and clean
the gasket surface and bolt holes
37:02 Repair any electrical wire wrap (if needed)
37:42 Swap the hose(s) from the old pump to the new
pump and inspect the new pump:
- I use a Graf PA710 for this ML500 with the oil
cooler
- MB part for the pump with oil cooler output:
112-200-14-01-80
- MB part for pump without oil cooler output: 112
-200-15-01-80
45:40 Swap the upper radiator hose from the old
thermostat to the new thermostat (Wahler, MB
112-203-02-75)
47:06 Place the new gasket and water pump on
the timing case cover and tighten the 14 bolts just hand tight
51:25 A note about the WIS torque values ("pre-
tapped" v "not pre-tapped")
53:29 Torque the 14 bolts in several passes to the
following final torque values:
- the ten E10 bolts: 10 Nm (88 inch-lbs, 7.3 ft-lbs)
- the four E12 bolts: 25 Nm (221 inch-lbs, 18.5 ft-
lbs)
58:12 Reconnect the hoses to the water pump
59:07 Install the idler pulley: torque is 20 Nm (177
inch-lbs, 14.7 ft-lbs)
59:31 Install the alternator bolt: torque is 42 Nm
(31 ft-lbs)
59:56 Install the two bolts for the MAP sensor
bracket (no torque value - just snug)
01:00:22 Install the water pump pulley bolts: you can either
torque them now or wait until you have the bolt
on to hold the pulley; torque is 9Nm (80 inch-lbs)
for the M112 engine and 10 Nm (88 inch-lbs) for
the M113 engines
01:00:53 Reconnect coolant temperature sensor
01:01:03 Install the thermostat with new gasket:
torque is 14 Nm (124 inch-lbs) for the M112 engines and 10 Nm (88 inch-lbs) for the M113 engines
01:02:46 Install the secondary air pump: torque is 12 Nm (106 inch-lbs)
01:03:57 Remove & replace belt tensioner - this step is optional:
- part number is Liten 950-113 or MB 112-200-09-70
- install torque on the two E12 bolts is 25 Nm (18.5 ft-lbs, 221 inch-lbs)
01:09:22 Install the belt (belt routing diagram is shown)
01:13:30 Tighten the water pump pulley bolts (if you haven't already - torque is 10 Nm on the M113; 9 Nm on the M112)
01:13:41 Reinstall the fan shroud
01:15:09 Install the fan, fan clutch (for models without electric fan) - refer to the Linked Video below:
• Mercedes ML350 Remove ...
01:15:20 Install the fan shroud fasteners
01:15:54 Reconnect the lower and upper radiator hoses to the radiator
01:16:48 Reconnect the electric fan wires
01:17:40 Reinstall the oil dipstick
01:17:46 Begin the coolant refill - notes about coolant types; you will need at least 2.5 gallons (my final/full refill was 2.6 gallons, or 10L on this M113)
01:20:43 Pour coolant into the expansion tank; squeeze the upper and lower radiator hose to aid the air bleeding process. Expect to add about 8.0 - 8.8L (2.1 - 2.3 gallons) of coolant before starting the engine.
01:22:16 Reconnect battery (for models with electric fan)
01:22:40 Start the engine to begin the full bleed
01:28:32 Check for leaks and top off at needed after a few drives
Links:
Oil Cooler Seals, Oil Filter Housing, and Pressure Port gasket replacement:
• Mercedes ML500 Oil Coo...
Fan removal and replacement:
• Mercedes ML350 Remove ...
I hope this video was helpful for you. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair! 
Хобби
Timestamps, Part Numbers, Torque Values, other relevant Video Links:
00:23 Diagnostics and overview
04:00 Two different Water pumps - how to determine your pump type
05:35 Disconnect battery (for models with an
electric fan)
06:00 Drain the coolant (7mm)
07:56 Remove fan shroud fasteners (10mm)
09:05 Disconnect the upper radiator hose (7mm)
10:14 Disconnect the electric fan for models so equipped (10mm, 13mm)
11:34 Remove oil dipstick
11:45 Notes if you have a fan clutch (36mm,
counterclockwise to loosen)
Link to the Fan Clutch Video mentioned:
ruclips.net/video/Ols8w3zSTMM/видео.html
13:08 Remove or lower the fan shroud
15:08 Loosen the four water pump pulley bolts
(10mm)
15:38 Remove the belt (17mm feature, turn
counterclockwise)
18:20 Remove the secondary air pump (optional step,
E10)
19:23 Remove the thermostat (E10)
21:56 Remove MAP sensor bracket (E10)
23:12 Remove the idler pulley (T50, part INA
5320160100 or MB A000-202-09-19)
23:53 Make a water pump bolt template
25:11 Remove the alternator bolt (E14)
25:46 Disconnect the hose at the water pump from aux coolant pump
(7mm)
27:38 Disconnect the oil cooler hose (for models so equipped)
28:20 Remove the 14 remaining water pump bolts:
- there are four E12 bolts and ten E10 bolts remaining
- place each fastener in the correct spots on your
bolt template
31:56 Remove the water pump from the timing case cover
33:58 Remove the water pump gasket and clean
the gasket surface and bolt holes
(*correction - the Permatex Gasket Remover shown at 35:05 is Permatex 80645, not "86045")
37:02 Repair any electrical wire wrap (if needed)
37:42 Swap the hose(s) from the old pump to the new
pump and inspect the new pump:
- I use a Graf PA710 for this ML500 with the oil
cooler
- MB part for the pump with oil cooler output:
112-200-14-01-80
- MB part for pump without oil cooler output: 112
-200-15-01-80
45:40 Swap the upper radiator hose from the old
thermostat to the new thermostat (Wahler, MB
112-203-02-75)
47:06 Place the new gasket and water pump on
the timing case cover and tighten the 14 bolts just hand tight
51:25 A note about the WIS torque values ("pre-
tapped" v "not pre-tapped")
53:29 Torque the 14 bolts in several passes to the
following final torque values:
- the ten E10 bolts: 10 Nm (88 inch-lbs, 7.3 ft-lbs)
- the four E12 bolts: 25 Nm (221 inch-lbs, 18.5 ft-
lbs)
58:12 Reconnect the hoses to the water pump
59:07 Install the idler pulley: torque is 20 Nm (177
inch-lbs, 14.7 ft-lbs)
59:31 Install the alternator bolt: torque is 42 Nm
(31 ft-lbs)
59:56 Install the two bolts for the MAP sensor
bracket (no torque value - just snug)
01:00:22 Install the water pump pulley bolts: you can either
torque them now or wait until you have the bolt
on to hold the pulley; torque is 9Nm (80 inch-lbs)
for the M112 engine and 10 Nm (88 inch-lbs) for
the M113 engines
01:00:53 Reconnect coolant temperature sensor
01:01:03 Install the thermostat with new gasket:
torque is 14 Nm (124 inch-lbs) for the M112 engines and 10 Nm (88 inch-lbs) for the M113 engines
01:02:46 Install the secondary air pump: torque is 12 Nm (106 inch-lbs)
01:03:57 Remove and replace the belt tensioner: this step is optional and only required if you're replacing the tensioner;
- part number is Liten 950-113 or MB 112-200-09-70
- install torque on the two E12 bolts is 25 Nm (18.5 ft-lbs, 221 inch-lbs)
01:09:22 Install the belt (belt routing diagram is shown)
01:13:30 Tighten the water pump pulley bolts (if you haven't already - torque is 10 Nm on the M113 and 9 Nm on the M112)
01:13:41 Reinstall the fan shroud
01:15:09 Install the fan and fan clutch (for models without the electric fan) - refer to the Linked Video: ruclips.net/video/Ols8w3zSTMM/видео.html
01:15:20 Install the fan shroud fasteners
01:15:54 Reconnect the lower and upper radiator hoses to the radiator
01:16:48 Reconnect the electric fan wires
01:17:40 Reinstall the oil dipstick
01:17:46 Begin the coolant refill - notes about coolant types. I'm using Zerex G05 Concentrated and mixing with 50/50 with distilled water; you will need at least 2.5 gallons of coolant (my final/full refill was 2.6 gallons, or 10L on this M113)
01:20:43 Pour coolant into the expansion tank; squeeze the upper and lower radiator hose to aid the air bleeding process. Expect to add about 8.0 - 8.8L (2.1 - 2.3 gallons) of coolant before starting the engine.
01:22:16 Reconnect the battery (for models with electric fan)
01:22:40 Start the engine to begin the full bleeding process
01:28:32 Check for leaks and top off at needed after a few drives
Here are the links to the videos mentioned:
Oil Cooler Seals, Oil Filter Housing, and Pressure Port gasket replacement:
ruclips.net/video/eyHyleOfdLQ/видео.html
Fan and Fan Clutch removal and replacement:
ruclips.net/video/Ols8w3zSTMM/видео.html
I hope this video was helpful for you. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
Showed this video to my severely autistic pet pigeon and he changed my water pump while I was asleep. That’s how good this video is.
Haha, that's funny!! Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching : )
Wow, this is the best repair video I have ever watched on RUclips. I don't typically comment but your video was just amazing. I look forward to more of your work in the future.
Thank you so much for taking the time to comment, and thanks for watching! : )
My ! My ! My! Wow! Wow! Wow! This was a SUPERB video in EVERY possible respect. Clarity of explanation, instructions of caution; clarity of video recording, no shortcuts everything was fully demonstrated, provision of torque specifications in different units, ( which is what I have been searching for from last night without success but finally found it here this morning). You can be very proud of your effort here. I am most impressed and especially so if this was done by a woman (It sounds like , forgive if I'm wrong) in this a man's dominate world from automobiles were invented. I must subscribe to your channel . Thank you ! Thank you !
Thank you - I appreciate your comment! Yes, I'm a woman, and yes, I will always include torque values whenever I can on my video!
Thank you for watching! : )
As always an OUTSTANDING, detailed instructional repair video. Absolutely the best on RUclips BRAVO !
Thanks! And thanks for watching! : )
I followed your instructions to the letter. You by far have the best video for the water pump replacement. Thank you. I have a 2002 CL500 and it works perfectly
Outstanding!! Great job on your DIY : )
Thanks for watching!
OUTSTANDING VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS. IM a big fan just enjoying your tutorial. NOt everyone does work with this kind of care and thoroughness. I do almost the same as what you do with tape, markings, cardboards for the bolts and all print out of torque specs.
Really fun watching. I have a 113 engine on an S430 so this was good just to watch your technique
THANK YOU FOR MAKING THE VIDEO. This is a lot of work, videoing and explaining and also adding parts number in the edits. WOW. Wished all videos were like yours.
Wow, thanks for your comment! Yeah, I like details too : ) Thanks for watching and for sharing your tips on your S430!
Great video! I’ve used the cardboard trick for many years to keep varied length bolts organized. I have to do this to my 2001 E430 soon as I noticed some wobble in the fan/water pump and my tensioner pulley was starting to chirp on a 1000 mile trip in the latest Christmas arctic blast. I had never noticed any coolant leaks but an inspection of the frame showed a little coolant residue. Thankfully it warmed up by the time we drove back and it made it home without issue but I ordered a new pump and all of the pulleys and a new belt just to freshen things up. I am still amazed at how robust these cars were made and even with something on its way out, it still got us and the dog there and back without being stranded in the cold on the side of the road. I love the old car even more now and will replace any other parts that I find questionable and this video gave me a few tips to help make the job easier. Thank you!
Wow, that's a great story! I agree that these M112 and M113 engines were gems from MB - they are robust indeed. Thanks for watching, and Merry Christmas & Happy New Year! : )
I just did the water pump on my 1999 ml 320. I watched your video several times and followed your procedure to the letter. VERY VERY helpful, your attention to detail had a very positive outcome for me. Mine had the rubber gasket. I was quite nervous about the gasket slipping, fortunately it didn't. The hour of cleaning made quite a difference in the way the gasket fit. Thank you for all the work you put into your videos.
Wow, that's outstanding!! Yes - cleaning that gasket surface is very important, and it always takes me a long time too!
Thanks for adding your note about the gasket difference with the '99 ML320 - and thanks for watching, and great job on your DIY! : )
@@L35inColorado You are my go to when it comes to my ML repairs. My ML seems to be following slightly behind the repairs you do. At 210,000 miles it has exceeded my expectations for reliability. next project is transmission fluid. plug and filter, transfer case fluid and front and rear differential fluid change. The transmission drain plug looks very angry so wish me luck.
Absolutely the best video for this repair. GREAT!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Holy cow, this video is next level, huge props and gratitude!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
A brilliant video that was so helpful. Just had to change my pump in a car park with minimal tools, thanks to the detail provided here (particularly tool sizes, as I had to buy the sizes I needed). As an additional note, I changed mine without dropping the radiator fan shroud, as the two bottom bolts on the shroud were corroded to round stubs, and I didn't have tools to remove them. It is just possible to get the pump out, but the edge of the shroud took the skin off my arm, so remove/drop the shroud if you can. Also, regarding pump failure, mine never leaked, but the rear bearing collapsed in a few minutes of running. Sounded like the engine was destroying itself, with pump pulley wobbling +/-5mm. Stopped the engine immediately and changed the pump where it stood aa a collapse like this can damage the pump back plate (timing chain cover?), which becomes a much bigger repair. Luckily, mine ate the pump body only, such that the pulley moved out 5mm. My pump was original and had done 450,000km.
Your detailed step by step instructions were spot on! Got me thru changing my water pump without a problem. Thank you! I plan to keep my 2004 ML350 as long as possible, so pls keep up the awesome videos.
Nice - well done on your DIY! Thanks for watching! : )
Brilliant.! Thanks. 😊 I’m so looking forward to doing it tho…seized pump this morning, belt cooked, destroyed the idler/ tensioner puller… oh the joys.
Ah, I'm sorry that happened! But I'm glad the video helps - good luck, and thanks for watching! : )
Thankyou ! 😊
Same thing happened to me! So grateful for this video
Buenas tardes desde Venezuela. Me quedo sorprendido de la capacidad del Señor para explicar con lujo de detalles la reparación. No existe mezquindad en impartir conocimiento ni en el uso de los recursos audiovisuales para transmitir sus conocimientos. Mil gracias.
Acá en Venezuela en muy difícil conseguir ayuda y soporte para mantener nosotros mismos nuestros vehículos. Gracias nuevamente. Cualquier información que pueda suministrar se lo agradecería. Mi vehículo es MB ML 320 1998. W163. Gracias por siempre y que tenga una vida larga y productiva.
You do an excellent job every time.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
I can't thank you enough for your super detailed videos. I did the water pump on my 2008 ML550 (W164 with M273 engine) a few weeks ago, and am getting ready to replace the pump on my 2006 ML500 (W164 with M113) this Saturday. I went with a Graf pump for the M273 and got the Meyle for the M113. Outstanding work ! 🙂
Wow, you've been busy! Great work on your DIY's, and I'm glad you like the videos. I think you made a good choice getting the Meyle for M113. Thanks for watching! : )
I love how detailed you are! Great video... way better than many of the other videos on youtube. Love it! Thank you
Thank you - I try to add lots of detail (even though it makes my videos super long!) Thanks for watching! : )
Just say WOW! Really well done videos! Loving it!
Thank you! : )
Working on changing my 03 ml350 water pump and this was sooooo helpful!! Thank you👍
Nice!! Good luck, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you for posting such a detailed video! Your content is outstanding and I just wish I found your channel sooner👏👏👏
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
this vdeo help me a lot anthe way you splaint is fantastic,i really appreciate it and i learn a lot from your videos ,thank you,,,i hope you can continiou creating more videos .thank you that helpfull...
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank-you for such a comprehensive video!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
This video is the best I've seen,every step is super detial.Thanks a lot,great job!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Very well explained,
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
bravo. very detailed!
Thank you! And thanks for watching : )
Hello dear operator of l35 Colorado channel, I write to you from Germany, "home of the stars" that sometimes cause us worries and problems, but in the end we love them, maybe because we know that there is rarely better... I do not comment much but I wanted to tell you that your posts are among the best do it yourself channels I know. I have already learned a lot from you and so have been able to fix problems on my Alabama Trash Can through your informative and detailed videos.
I would be interested to know if you have already been affected by problems with the well known "AAM". If I could wish for something, then just by you a tutorial or explanatory video to remove, open, examine this cursed AAM control unit, which sometimes ensures that our MLs also wake up at night without ignition key to life. Also a tutorial on a professional Xentry diagnostic procedure would be great. Maybe you read this and now you also know that you have fans in good old Germany :) all the best for you and please forgive possible spelling mistakes.
I'm sorry I missed your comment! I am aware of the AAM and all the trouble it can cause, unfortunately. I am not familiar enough with the AAM to contribute much to the conversation, but I have learned a lot from reading the forums here:
www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=site%3Awww.benzworld.org+w163+aam&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
That is a site search of www.benzworld.org for the term "AAM". I hope one of those posts might help you! : )
Nice job I like your style
Thank you! And thanks for watching! : )
Thanks!
I'm so sorry that I missed your comment - for some reason, I just saw it now, two weeks late. Thank you very much for the SuperThanks, and thank you for watching! : )
Excellent -- so thurough.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
thank you
Thanks for watching! : )
insane video
Thanks for watching! : )
I concur with you about the GRAF brand waterpump. I bought one for my R350 and was so disappointed, I trashed it and ordered a Mercedes OE from the dealer along with returning the core. The quality is much better to do Mercedes Original
Yes - the MB's are the way to go. It's too bad, because the GRAF's used to be practically indistinguishable from the MB's. I'm not sure what happened!
Thanks for watching and for sharing your tip, too : )
hello madam, I am a new subscriber to your youtube channel that I like! indeed I have an ML320, and I liked your working method on the detachment of parts to change and others! thank you and good to you, from Gabon.
Wow! Thank you for being a subscriber, and thanks for watching - all the way from Gabon! : )
@@L35inColorado hello madam, lately I encountered two problems on my ML320 V6:
the first, following my wife's negligence to drain the gearbox, me not being there, the vehicle started to jerk when going from first gear to second, I do the oil change and cleaned the box but nothing has changed, in my research I had as information that it was necessary to change the gearbox plate, if you could advise me on this point please!
The second point is the boot error which has already happened to me twice, I am currently redoing the reprogramming of the key, if not the chip. if you could also give me the causes of this problem, otherwise I have the option of paying my ''ML Quick Start v 2.0'' to reprogram my chips, otherwise correct the error. thank you for answering me, good for you!
Good teacher
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Awesome video as always! The attention to detail in your videos has made intimidating jobs much more approachable and less stressful :) Did you use any threadlocker for any of the fasteners? Some of them look like they might have had some remnants of blue threadlocker
No, I did not use any threadlock. Sometimes I do find threadlock on that long E14 alternator mounting bolt, but there are no notes in the WIS regarding the use of threadlock on any of those bolts. I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado got it, thank you!
I’m planning on tackling this job next weekend and had one more question. Would you recommend cleaning the sealing surface on the water pump and the engine with brake parts cleaner? It seems like it’d be a good way to remove the residue from the gasket remover
@@Charbley Yes, that's fine - I used a little brake cleaner on a shop towel after cleaning up the Permatex to get the surface residue-free.
(I just noticed that I put "Permatex 86045" on the video, but the correct number is "80645". I do recommend having that on hand, if you can!)
Depending on how easily your gasket comes off, you might be able to get everything cleaned up with brake cleaner alone (in my case here, that didn't work, but I have done these pumps in the past without so much trouble cleaning the surface).
If you have some brake cleaner, gasket remover, and some scrapers on hand, you'll be able to get it clean - though expect that it could possibly take a lot longer than you'd think! As mentioned in the video, just don't use any brushes/tools/scrapers that will create scratchess in the aluminum.
I hope that helps - good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado Awesome, thanks for the in depth response! This will be my first water pump job but I’m fairly confident that it’ll go (relatively) smoothly thanks to your tips and super thorough video. Thanks again!
Great video keep them coming Ty L35;… I did water pump bout year fan Clutch and temperature sensors
Nice, that's great! Please feel free to add any tips from your job - and thanks for watching! : )
Btw u were loud and clear. Lol
@@L35inColorado there nothing to take away or ad to it was right on the money.. ML 350.
@@leone390987 Thanks! : )
1. Love the channel so far! EXCELLENT videos. Question though. W163 V6. Ihave the needed tools but the clutch nut wont budge. To boot, it is rounding. I do have the appropriate wrench. Thx to my local parts store loaner that is how i started down the road of the nut rounding off. ANY ideas as im really in need of fixing this..Not sure if i can at this point.
Ah man - that's so frustrating, and I have been there too. If you haven't reviewed this video, I show some options - if you're not using a pulley holder, you will need to do that, and possibly add a shim between the wrench and the nut, if the nut is rounding/rounded:
ruclips.net/video/Ols8w3zSTMM/видео.html
If you have access to an air hammer, this kit might be the solution, because impact is highly effective in getting that nut to budge:
www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-fan-clutch-wrench-set-58526.html
Those are my best tips, as far as tools - something to hold the pulley well, and something to impact that nut. Be sure you're turning in the correct direction (especially if you're using the air hammer kit). There's always the (last) option of cutting (but hopefully you don't need to go there!). I hope that helps! : )
Thx so much for the reply. I have the holder. May have to go to air. Or maybe heat.
Hi L35 Do you have to remove the thermostat housing to remove the water pump? or can it be removed leaving it in place. Thanks for the great video awesome as alway's.
No, you don't need to remove the thermostat - you can work around it. The thermostat is often replaced during this job simply because you have to drain the coolant to replace the water pump, so people often swap in a new thermostat while everything is empty. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching : )
Great, thanks for the info, I was told the thermostat was replaced around 6 months ago, shame they didn't do the water pump too! 🙄
Hi :)
You are fantastic... Your videos help me a lot for my ml500 :) I have one question... in this video you show one pictures from anonym book at 24:50... can you tell me what is this book or where can i ordered this ? Thanks and i wish the best for you!
I'm sorry I missed your comment! The pictures shown at 24:50 are from the Mercedes WIS, or Workshop Information System. You can buy access to the WIS through a few different means, but it is VERY expensive! I got the information shown from the www.benzworld.org forum. There are some very helpful MB techs on that forum who post tips, WIS info, and lots of other great stuff. For example, here's a page on the water pump replacement that includes some WIS pdfs (this is just for an example - the particular WIS page shown might be out-of-date or NA):
www.benzworld.org/attachments/w210_water_pump-pdf.162963/
that's from this thread:
www.benzworld.org/threads/diy-water-pump-wis.1362156/
That forum is one of the best places to find WIS info. I hope that helps - good luck! : )
You are great of teaching. Thank you
Thank you! And thanks for watching : )
So, the alternator bolt is stuck, like galled. I can do two quare turns in, two guater turns and a tiny but out, I'm not going to live long enough to get it out, what to do?
So I got it out, had no anti-sieze or anything, after midnight, found some sliding door silicon lube and without any regard for future belt slippage problems I might cause, or whatever, sprayed some in, half a turn in, half a turn out, then straight out all trhe way without more than little severe force.
Came out with last 1.5cm of thread encased in galled aluminium, so not sure what was going on, I suspect I should have made more effort on cleaning it than a quick wire brush before putting it back in (I already had the bolt out, fit the new pump, put it back in, but f*cked up the gasket and was taking it back out second time to redo the gasket).
I will comment again if there is silicon consequences, but I think not.
I'm so sorry I missed your comment! But I'm so glad you were able to work it out, and especially that you shared you tips!
I would buy that book (phisically) what you use from 51:30 .... Can you send me link or address,name where can i buy taht ? Thanks a lot
That image is from the Mercedes WIS (Workshop Information System), which I don't think is available in print. I think it is only available online, on CD-ROM, or through the MB subscription service. If you check the forums (such as www.benzworld.org) you can sometimes find pages from the WIS posted by forum members who have access to the WIS. That is how I got those pages. I hope that helps - good luck! : )
How do you know you need to change the water pump ?
It's a good question - in this case, I noticed that the pulley was slightly wobbling, which is typically caused by failed bearings. When the bearings fail, coolant will usually (not always, but usually) leak past the bearings, and you'll see the residue shown at 38:36. If you see that, the water pump needs to be replaced.
Another reason people change the water pump is if they find metal shavings in the coolant, which is a sign that the pump internals have failed.
I think also people replace the water pump at about 150K miles as a preventative measure, since they often replace the thermostat preventatively at that time, and they have the coolant drained, so they just replace the water pump while in there.
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching : )
I've watched 6 videos on the Idler pulley for the M113 and I've got multiple different torque values. 25 Nm, 20 Nm, 35 Nm, gut feeling Nm. What the actual hell? Why is this idler pulley torque value SO difficult to figure out?
I'm not sure about the other values, but the value I posted is from what's in the Mercedes WIS (MB's factory service manual program).
What application is your M113 - year/model?
Weird I have a 2007 V6 ML350 and it has the oil cooler.
I just ordered a new water pump so hopefully it is the correct one lol.
You can check your part numbers at FCP Euro (for example, and other sites) - but this video is for the first generation of the ML engines (M112/M113). Your '07 ML350 has a different engine than the M112/M113 shown in the video.
Here's what FCP Euro shows as the water pump for an '07 ML350:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-engine-water-pump-mer-2722000901
Please be sure to double-check that, because I'm not familiar with the '07 ML350 engine. But I hope that helps : ) Thanks for watching!
@@L35inColorado Yes I ordered one here in Canada from a place in Ontario. Should be here next week. After replacing the intake manifold myself on my V6 this looks to be a heck of a lot easier lol. Cheers for the reply.
I think there should be a way to replace just a bearing on water pump and leave the old casing. I would not trust that Graf water pump. It does not look quality made. The content is as always great. Great job.
You know, I still have the old MB pump - I might try that as a little experiment! The housing is aluminium and the bearing is steel, so I bet I can slip that bearing out with some heat on the aluminum. If I do that, I'll make a video.
As I mentioned in the video, I was quite disappointed with the Graf pump out of the box - I have never, ever had any issues with Graf before. But also as I mentioned in the video, I emailed Graf pictures, and they confirmed that it is indeed theirs. It has only been a few thousand miles since the repair (it's my sister's ML), and there haven't been any issues - bu I'll certainly update, if needed.
I have noticed now on some webpages that this "new" Graf style (as seen in the video) is showing in pictures (compared to their old style, which looked identical to MB). Here's an example:
www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1122001401.htm?pn=112-200-14-01-M52
Thanks for your comment and suggestion about the bearing, and thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado Thanks for the reply. I have 2003 ml350 almost 6 years already. 125k miles, never had any issues with thermostat or water pump, but you never know what is in future :). So I am watching all of videos very carefully and gaining theoretical experience :), although I have already changed breathing hoses and valve cover gaskets on both sides.
👍👍👍👍👍👍 😻 😻😻😻 😻 💯💯🎁🎁🎁
Mercedes design is even more idiotic, and even the fan is driven by an engine.
Mercedes is garbage , What a bad design this car is,only see bunch of different screwdrivers and screws, you know this car is garbage.
Yes, it is often required to have specialized tools to work on MB's. Personally, I prefer 4-cylinder Toyota engines, but I will say that these MB M112 and M113 engines are actually pretty reliable and easy to work on, especially when compared to other "performance" engines. So - it is what it is! Thanks for watching : )