Ive never bled the brakes doing a brake job. As long as no air gets into line your good to Go . Compress pistons which pushes fluid back into master and pump brakes when finished. Only time I bleed is when replacing lines . Never coated back of pads with grease either ......Good vid bro , not bashing just telling how i do it
This is one of the best videos I've seen on RUclips. Everything is so well explained. You make this job look so simple. God blessed you with a lot of talent. You saved a lot of money and time to many people with this video. Thank You!
45+ yrs as a seasoned factory technician , you do not need to open bleeder screw like u did , just take the brake master cylinder cover/cap off this allows ghe brake fluid to back flow with out the highly possibility of letting air in the closed system....... if master cylinder is full just drain a little out ....... other than that ya'll did a great job on the video 📹 👏 👍
thank you so much for this video. just changed brakes and rotars on a 2002 ford windstar (in 3 hours lmao) this was so helpful, please keep up the great work :))
I had pulled out the caliper slide pins to replace them and did not notice that they were different! One pin has a rubber seal towards the end. I could not figure out if it was positioned on top of the bracket or bottom. In this video the caliper slide pins with the rubber seal towards the end are both on the bottom so that is what I am going to do now. Thanks for taking the time to video this and post it was very helpful.
I'm doing this today for a girlfriend. Thankyou for the video. You're a big help. Please if you can would you do one on the replacing power windows on the 1999 Windstar.
Thank You for a superb detailed video Joe! j had to replace a wheel hub assembly and had a heck of a time trying to remove the rotor from the hub.I came across your video which mentions those retaining bolts,which was omitted from another video on how to change a hub assembly.Thank You again,for an awesome, DETAILED, video!
Gizmo. Likes the bid . however I would do one thing different (when I did my before removing the pliers I got my wife to step on the brakes then loosen the bleeder then loosen the pliers this got me there a whole lot faster) hoPe this helps u like it help me well good luck.
What if one of the pieces u called hardware were missing can u still just grease the area and put the pads in place, if it’s just one lil metal clip hardware piece missing?
You don't have to clamp off the brake line, you don't have to tie up the caliper, you shouldn't touch the bleeder screw, you shouldn't put anti seize on the hardware, the green lube is not for pads, you should clean off where the hardware mounts to the bracket. As long as the bolts are tight they should be fine, they don't need to be torqued, never turn the wheel on an old ford van/truck. What a good ASE certified tech that approved this video. LOL
the 2 caliper guide pins...i noticed one of them two had a little rubber boot at the end...while the other didnt...does it make a difference, if you put the one with the rubber piece on top versus bottom? i wonder, what the function of the rubber piece is anyway...thanks
@Barri0 _99 LOL he is not talking about the dust cover. The shaft of one the caliper slide pins actually has a recessed area where a rubber piece is mounted. In this video the caliper pins with the rubber seal on the shaft are both on the bottom of the caliper bracket check out 7:19 that shows the passenger side pin with the rubber seal piece on the shaft, drivers side is shown later in the video. Very thorough video.
Pretty much. Most Ford products come off and go on the same way. However, you might have to use different sizes of sockets to get everything on and off. Edit: I’ve never bled the lines. I’ve only used a c clamp to compress the pistons. Leaving the lines closed (sealed) has always worked for me. There is no need to bleed the lines as shown in this video.
Question. So im trying to replace the rotor on my 2000 ford windstar, but even when i have removed the screws that hold the rotor in place it wont come out. I have hitted it with a steal hammer and still it wont come out. Please help.
Hi. Attempting to replace driver-side rotor on 96 Ford Windstar. Never done it this way (you-tube), always had Haynes assist me. lOl Got a call, front wheel broke off & rolled 30 feet, while driving. @_@
Question I always used A C clamp to back the calipers by removing the break cap so I wouldn't have to bleed the brakes like this well that damage the master cylinder if I do it like that
@@rayoliver7120 That does appear to be a lot of extra work without any benefit, just remove a little bit of brake fluid from the reservoir before you start compressing the calipers so that the reservoir does Not overflow and ruin your concrete driveway.
Thanks! May I suggest: a) WAY TOO LONG. The two wheels are exactly the same, so we don't need to watch both; We don't need to watch you take off all the nuts on both wheels; etc. etc. ... b) Explain WHY you are doing certain steps. For example, I've never loosened the bleeder valve on any brake job (but I'm not a mechanic) and it has never seemed to make any difference in the final result.
BS I needed to verify which position the passenger side and drivers side caliper pins with the recess and rubber seals go top or bottom. THEY GO ON THE BOTTOM ON BOTH SIDES
Ive never bled the brakes doing a brake job. As long as no air gets into line your good to Go . Compress pistons which pushes fluid back into master and pump brakes when finished. Only time I bleed is when replacing lines . Never coated back of pads with grease either ......Good vid bro , not bashing just telling how i do it
This is one of the best videos I've seen on RUclips. Everything is so well explained. You make this job look so simple. God blessed you with a lot of talent. You saved a lot of money and time to many people with this video. Thank You!
You turned the wheels to get to the caliper mounting bracket bolts! You just saved me a whole lot of heartburn. Thank you for making this video.
45+ yrs as a seasoned factory technician , you do not need to open bleeder screw like u did , just take the brake master cylinder cover/cap off this allows ghe brake fluid to back flow with out the highly possibility of letting air in the closed system....... if master cylinder is full just drain a little out ....... other than that ya'll did a great job on the video 📹 👏 👍
Yes I saw that too, I never do that extra step, I just pull a little out of the reservoir before compressing the calipers.
thank you so much for this video. just changed brakes and rotars on a 2002 ford windstar (in 3 hours lmao) this was so helpful, please keep up the great work :))
I had pulled out the caliper slide pins to replace them and did not notice that they were different! One pin has a rubber seal towards the end. I could not figure out if it was positioned on top of the bracket or bottom. In this video the caliper slide pins with the rubber seal towards the end are both on the bottom so that is what I am going to do now. Thanks for taking the time to video this and post it was very helpful.
I'm doing this today for a girlfriend. Thankyou for the video. You're a big help. Please if you can would you do one on the replacing power windows on the 1999 Windstar.
Very good detail. So many videos leave out the detail. Good job, thanks.
This video was a life saver. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
Thank You for a superb detailed video Joe! j had to replace a wheel hub assembly and had a heck of a time trying to remove the rotor from the hub.I came across your video which mentions those retaining bolts,which was omitted from another video on how to change a hub assembly.Thank You again,for an awesome, DETAILED, video!
thank you for this vid, it was very helpful. looking forward to more. thaks again.
Thanks for the video iam about to change rotors here in Michigan due to salt corrosion.
Thank you much, very detailed, you took your time, really appreciate it, God Bless you guys
Excellent video by the way, guys
Thanks for the video. I replaced my brake pads no problem :)
Thanks for the video additional knowledge
very informative , thanks
Great video. Thanks
Thanks for the great video! It really helped out!
Geoff
Thanks you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Gut job.
Thank you so much thank you so much
Gizmo.
Likes the bid . however I would do one thing different (when I did my before removing the pliers I got my wife to step on the brakes then loosen the bleeder then loosen the pliers this got me there a whole lot faster) hoPe this helps u like it help me well good luck.
What if one of the pieces u called hardware were missing can u still just grease the area and put the pads in place, if it’s just one lil metal clip hardware piece missing?
What size are the caliper guide pin bolts Is 10 mm
Could you use the brake clean to clean the rims?
thank u
You don't have to clamp off the brake line, you don't have to tie up the caliper, you shouldn't touch the bleeder screw, you shouldn't put anti seize on the hardware, the green lube is not for pads, you should clean off where the hardware mounts to the bracket. As long as the bolts are tight they should be fine, they don't need to be torqued, never turn the wheel on an old ford van/truck. What a good ASE certified tech that approved this video. LOL
Interesting, so you let the caliper hang by the brake hose?
I'm new and just curious as to why not to turn the wheel I've never heard of that, but I know almost nothing about brakes.
just open the brake fluid cover no bleeder necessary good video otherwise
the 2 caliper guide pins...i noticed one of them two had a little rubber boot at the end...while the other didnt...does it make a difference, if you put the one with the rubber piece on top versus bottom? i wonder, what the function of the rubber piece is anyway...thanks
@Barri0 _99 LOL he is not talking about the dust cover. The shaft of one the caliper slide pins actually has a recessed area where a rubber piece is mounted. In this video the caliper pins with the rubber seal on the shaft are both on the bottom of the caliper bracket check out 7:19 that shows the passenger side pin with the rubber seal piece on the shaft, drivers side is shown later in the video. Very thorough video.
I have a 1998 windstar, will this procedure be the same?
Pretty much. Most Ford products come off and go on the same way. However, you might have to use different sizes of sockets to get everything on and off.
Edit: I’ve never bled the lines. I’ve only used a c clamp to compress the pistons. Leaving the lines closed (sealed) has always worked for me. There is no need to bleed the lines as shown in this video.
Question. So im trying to replace the rotor on my 2000 ford windstar, but even when i have removed the screws that hold the rotor in place it wont come out. I have hitted it with a steal hammer and still it wont come out. Please help.
smash the fucker, it's going to be recycled.
what if rotor won't come off
If you can't remove star torq screws with impact driver; a last resort would be to drill the heads off the screws with 3/8 bit.
Hi. Attempting to replace driver-side rotor on 96 Ford Windstar. Never done it this way (you-tube), always had Haynes assist me. lOl
Got a call, front wheel broke off & rolled 30 feet, while driving. @_@
Question I always used A C clamp to back the calipers by removing the break cap so I wouldn't have to bleed the brakes like this well that damage the master cylinder if I do it like that
No it will not
@@rayoliver7120 That does appear to be a lot of extra work without any benefit, just remove a little bit of brake fluid from the reservoir before you start compressing the calipers so that the reservoir does Not overflow and ruin your concrete driveway.
Thanks! May I suggest:
a) WAY TOO LONG. The two wheels are exactly the same, so we don't need to watch both; We don't need to watch you take off all the nuts on both wheels; etc. etc. ...
b) Explain WHY you are doing certain steps. For example, I've never loosened the bleeder valve on any brake job (but I'm not a mechanic) and it has never seemed to make any difference in the final result.
BS I needed to verify which position the passenger side and drivers side caliper pins with the recess and rubber seals go top or bottom. THEY GO ON THE BOTTOM ON BOTH SIDES