I replaced the front hub bearing assembly's on our 2004 Freestar. The bearings were making a high pitched whining noise and when you would turn the wheel it would stop. Our Freestar had ABS and I did not have to remove the ball joint,There was enough clearance to get to all 3 bolts with a 15mm socket and a 6 inch extension for the top bolt. In some of the posts I also found that they wanted to know the socket sizes needed. My axle nut was 29mm and torqued to 111 ft pounds the 3 hub bolts are a 15mm and torqued to 56 ft pounds the 2 caliper bolts were 18mm and the ABS cable support bracket was a 8mm and a T50 torx for the 3 torx screws that hold the rotor on. Do not forget to use thread lock on your bolts The hubs were rusted in there and took some pounding and prying to get them off. I changed both hubs in less than 3 hours. It was a pretty easy job the hardest part was getting it up on jacks. P.S I did not have to swear once for the hole job. Great video it gives you a good idea what you are up against
Very nicely done video. Steps are clearly demonstrated and explained. Not critical, but a mention of socket/nut/bolt sizes could be useful. Thanks for a very good video. Subscribed
Thank you for the time u took to film this video. I was helping a friend with their 2002 Windstar and u made it so much easier. Thank You again. GOD BLESS..
Thanks was told to unhook top ball joint, and I did. Still could not get it off see why now. I now unhook bottom and put it back together thanks so much GREAT job showing what you done..
For newer models with the ABS wire going into the hub, it is not necessary to remove the lower ball joint to get the bolts out of the hub assembly, there is enough clearance to get to them with an extension.
Glad yours came apart so smoothly mine took 8hrs to get the bearing out ..its sad the bearing cost me 64 bucks but the socket set cost me more then the bearing.i also had to get a lower balljoint fork as the prybar bent...well I guess you showed us how its supposed to come off.but it's just like the movies it never happends like that in real life.
This video was useful in replacing the wheel bearing on my daughter's 2003 Windstar. I did find that by pushing the CV joint out of the way I could get to the three bolts holding the hub assembly on. I did not have to remove the lower ball joint.
Great video! It would be more useful to know the socket sizes. You can over torque a wheel bearing. I have done it! I did not notice until the bearing started making noise a month later, took it to a shop and was told it was way to tight!
Cant get a tag because of a bad bearing? Ouch. Thanks for the video. I have been keeping my wife's sentimental windstar going. My son hit something and sheared the bolts off the hub. Yup, the wheel fell off. Hopefully I'll have it up and going again tomorrow. Thanks!
@@realfixesrealfast Success! The book says the hub must be pressed in by a machine shop. So it did not even give any directions. I'm glad I found your video. I may not have even attempted it had I thought it needed a machine shop. I had to jam a punch between the rotor and caliper to keep the assembly from turning. There were no bolts to even hold a wheel. They all sheared off. My son said " it just fell off". That just seems extremely rare. Maybe he is leaving something out of that story. Thanks!
Easy to do if you live in a rust free environment , where I live you need a air chiesel to remove the bearing after it's unbolted on like 99 % of every vehical I work on
My bearing hub was rusted in tight. I removed the entire frame that contains the bearing, placed the thing in a vise and removed the bearing hub. I purchased a new bearing hub at Advance auto but could not get the CV joint to go into the bearing as the splines were off a bit. Returned part to advance and bought one at OReilly's and it worked ok. Also, the little screw that held the abs sensor on the bearing hub was rusted and broke off. I drilled the broken screw out on my drill press but did not have a replacement screw. I re-installed the sensor and held it in place with a #10 twisted copper wire.
good video if you have a windstar with 3 bolts holding the hub on. if not, you have to take the whole assembly off. (take upper ball joint off and strut loose and bring whole assembly to machine shop)
Love watching your video, I wish I had a mechanic like you around my area.. Just a request if you can ever do a video on how to change wheel bearing on Honda/Acura on any model after 1999 I think that's when they started using pressed wheel bearing on most of their model.
Good video, only you don't have to undo the lower ball joint. You can still get at all the 3 hub retaining bolts with the axle in place and remove the hub with the axle in place after driving the axle inward like shown. I just did this today on my van.
Re: Your video on how to change the hub bearing on a 2000 Ford Winstar Thank you for your video, I have succeeded in changing the bearinghub, although when I started up my vehicle I lost all my power steering fluid. I believe I may have damaged or removed my oil seal on the control arm. Is this an easy fix? Can I pop the seal back in or will it be easier to just change the whole rack and pinion assembly? Could I have damaged the seal in the process? Any advice would be good, thanks
Great video! Thank you. Can you tell what symptom leads to this replacement? Is it rattling noise when turning the wheel to the right? My van has this noise when I make a right turn and I don't know if this is the case. My PVC boot he no lead.
I think I pulled the power steering arm out to far when I removed the spindle and may have damaged the hydraulic oil seal or the seal popped out, is this an easy fix?
Very helpful video, thanks. Except I have an additional problem. My old bearing is rusted solid inside and I can't break it loose. Tried pounding it, driving a wedge (screwdriver), butane torch to loosen it, nothing.
Tom Osborn I had the same problem. I put a chisel to into the seem and hit it with a hammer. I kept moving the chisel to different spots. It took a while but eventually the old bearing came out.
you might want to put the ball joint and the axel ot the proper tourque settings, if you dont youll regreat it .. other wise not a bad video but tourque settings are criticial
is this windstar a 3.0 or a 3.8 , we doing bearing and wheel hub replacement but we running into a problem of installing the new one, the bearings are completely different then the new bearings. mines a 98 windstar 3.0 .. we do not see 3 bolts on the back of the knuckle..mine has 2 small bearings and the racer... the new bearing looks like the one ur using... really need help..
I failed. Got the axle nut off easily, calipers, rotors, the axle moved easily in and out, but wouldn't move in far enough to gain access to the top bolt holding the hub. So I tried to separate the ball joint. Removed the pinch bolt, pounded a wedge in to spread the pinch, and started cranking on the ball joint just like he does here, with a 5 foot bar that I put so much torque on the other side of the van started lifting off the jacks. Rather than drop the van, I put it back together. Help?
People wonder why when they go to a shop and get a wheel bearing replaced that it goes out again in 6 months to a year will this video shows you exactly why Notice how he just hammered down the axle nut until the impact wrench could no longer get it any tighter well that's going to ruin that bearing. Axle nuts should be torqued down to the specific manufactures recommendation to insure a long bearing life hammering the axle nut down squeezes the bearing and will cause premature failure.
+Tom Osborn no that was a Ingersoll Rand 231C impact with 600ft Lbs of torque tightening a axle nut to its max power that should be tightened to only 186 ft lbs and the way he drove it onto the splines makes me feel sorry for the next guy to take it apart.
He just shortened the life of that bearing drastically by hammering on it with the impact he was tightening the axle nut with. Also, he didnt seem to use torque specs when tightening down the hub to spindle bolts or the caliper bracket to spindle bolts. Dont use this video for reference!
Tried this today, apparently this wasn't done in the rustbelt. had to beat and pry the ball joint out. Then had to beat and pry the bearing out of the backplate. Took over 2 hours.
I don't know if your bearing assembly slipped out that easy or what, but mine is flippin' pressed in. What's up? Are there two different types? You make it look so easy but mine has a retainer ring and the bear has to be pressed out and back in with special tools. If you neglected to tell me this, I'm not too happy now as the van is in the driveway all ripped apart with no place to go. What gives????
Would have been a lot nicer and more professional if instead of just saying "well you need to take this nut off" you could say "you need to take this 30 mm axle nut." Would be a lot more helpful if you told people the size ahead of time is all I'm saying..
@kingnard17 Its just that there is tourque specs for most bolts, and its the lazy guys who just use the gun. Im sure its not the right way to do it, just this guys kinda lazy that way. Also by not using the right amount of tourque you can have the improper load on the wheel berring... Just dont be lazy and you will be fine.
Wow you must have stripped the shit out of the anxle and nut threads. Why not put a little copper coat in the berring to strut hole and on the axle nut threads and you can turn that nut on by hand not use an impact gun. You should also tourque all those fasters not shoot them on with the airgun.
this is a "hub" replacement video, hubs are probably all you can get anymore, if those, people don't want to do "bearings", too much work for the average DIY person
You cannot strip the thread and overtighten the axle nut.I tighten everything the German torque spec: good and tight.Most shop do not use a torque wrench since it is a waste of time and tighten the bolts with an impact.I can prove it and the warning not torqueing the axle nut is full of bs.Says you can do damage to the wheelbearing which is full of BS
factory torque specs are supposed to give longevity to said hub bearing....but it wouldn't surprise me if it is false to require premature part replacement.....goootNtight...
Lower joint removed or not, great video. Very straightforward and very explanatory. Well done! And ty!
I replaced the front hub bearing assembly's on our 2004 Freestar. The bearings were making a high pitched whining noise and when you would turn the wheel it would stop. Our Freestar had ABS and I did not have to remove the ball joint,There was enough clearance to get to all 3 bolts with a 15mm socket and a 6 inch extension for the top bolt. In some of the posts I also found that they wanted to know the socket sizes needed. My axle nut was 29mm and torqued to 111 ft pounds the 3 hub bolts are a 15mm and torqued to 56 ft pounds the 2 caliper bolts were 18mm and the ABS cable support bracket was a 8mm and a T50 torx for the 3 torx screws that hold the rotor on. Do not forget to use thread lock on your bolts The hubs were rusted in there and took some pounding and prying to get them off. I changed both hubs in less than 3 hours. It was a pretty easy job the hardest part was getting it up on jacks. P.S I did not have to swear once for the hole job. Great video it gives you a good idea what you are up against
DID YOU HUb come right out like that?>
Very nicely done video. Steps are clearly demonstrated and explained.
Not critical, but a mention of socket/nut/bolt sizes could be useful.
Thanks for a very good video.
Subscribed
The you for video... owner of five Windstars
my 2001 SEL is still my main ride.
Thank you for the time u took to film this video. I was helping a friend with their 2002 Windstar and u made it so much easier. Thank You again. GOD BLESS..
Thanks was told to unhook top ball joint, and I did. Still could not get it off see why now. I now unhook bottom and put it back together thanks so much GREAT job showing what you done..
Fabulous vid. Just did a 99 WS with your steps: 1 hour or less. Can't thank you enough for posting.
For newer models with the ABS wire going into the hub, it is not necessary to remove the lower ball joint to get the bolts out of the hub assembly, there is enough clearance to get to them with an extension.
Glad yours came apart so smoothly mine took 8hrs to get the bearing out ..its sad the bearing cost me 64 bucks but the socket set cost me more then the bearing.i also had to get a lower balljoint fork as the prybar bent...well I guess you showed us how its supposed to come off.but it's just like the movies it never happends like that in real life.
This video was useful in replacing the wheel bearing on my daughter's 2003 Windstar. I did find that by pushing the CV joint out of the way I could get to the three bolts holding the hub assembly on. I did not have to remove the lower ball joint.
Thank you very much!! very understandable for removing and installing new bearing assembly thanks guys
Great video! It would be more useful to know the socket sizes. You can over torque a wheel bearing. I have done it! I did not notice until the bearing started making noise a month later, took it to a shop and was told it was way to tight!
well thanks for telllin g us
Thank you Sir, you just saved me 180CAD with those thieves in Jasper Tire...
Cant get a tag because of a bad bearing? Ouch. Thanks for the video. I have been keeping my wife's sentimental windstar going. My son hit something and sheared the bolts off the hub. Yup, the wheel fell off. Hopefully I'll have it up and going again tomorrow. Thanks!
Glad it helps, good luck
@@realfixesrealfast Success! The book says the hub must be pressed in by a machine shop. So it did not even give any directions. I'm glad I found your video. I may not have even attempted it had I thought it needed a machine shop. I had to jam a punch between the rotor and caliper to keep the assembly from turning. There were no bolts to even hold a wheel. They all sheared off. My son said " it just fell off". That just seems extremely rare. Maybe he is leaving something out of that story. Thanks!
Thanks so much for the video! You helped us when we really needed it!
Great Video we followed it step by step this afternoon and it worked out great saved a lot of time and guessing.
That help me a lot, now i have an idea how take off those bearings
Easy to do if you live in a rust free environment , where I live you need a air chiesel to remove the bearing after it's unbolted on like 99 % of every vehical I work on
My bearing hub was rusted in tight. I removed the entire frame that contains the bearing, placed the thing in a vise and removed the bearing hub. I purchased a new bearing hub at Advance auto but could not get the CV joint to go into the bearing as the splines were off a bit. Returned part to advance and bought one at OReilly's and it worked ok. Also, the little screw that held the abs sensor on the bearing hub was rusted and broke off. I drilled the broken screw out on my drill press but did not have a replacement screw. I re-installed the sensor and held it in place with a #10 twisted copper wire.
I'm having the same problem. The CV axle doesn't go all the way in the bearer. Should I do what the video shows and impact wrench it in?
Great video,it help me a lot and save me tons of money, Thank you very much,keep the great job, God Bless You.
good video if you have a windstar with 3 bolts holding the hub on. if not, you have to take the whole assembly off. (take upper ball joint off and strut loose and bring whole assembly to machine shop)
Well done! Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
Love watching your video, I wish I had a mechanic like you around my area.. Just a request if you can ever do a video on how to change wheel bearing on Honda/Acura on any model after 1999 I think that's when they started using pressed wheel bearing on most of their model.
Good video, only you don't have to undo the lower ball joint. You can still get at all the 3 hub retaining bolts with the axle in place and remove the hub with the axle in place after driving the axle inward like shown. I just did this today on my van.
OMG THAT'S AWESOME! if I only had you for a neighbor
Re: Your video on how to change the hub bearing on a 2000 Ford Winstar
Thank you for your video, I have succeeded in changing the bearinghub, although
when I started up my vehicle I lost all my power steering fluid.
I believe I may have damaged or removed my oil seal on the control arm.
Is this an easy fix?
Can I pop the seal back in or will it be easier to just change the whole rack and pinion assembly?
Could I have damaged the seal in the process?
Any advice would be good, thanks
I would also mention that on the later model (at least my 2003) the rotor is actually screwed to the bearing with those dang star screws.
Great video! Thank you. Can you tell what symptom leads to this replacement? Is it rattling noise when turning the wheel to the right? My van has this noise when I make a right turn and I don't know if this is the case. My PVC boot he no lead.
sure helps to have an impact wrench
What an awesome video. Thank you.
for 1999 and newer vans.Pre 99 used a pressed style.
Great video. Thanks alot
The video was very helpful...
thank you ...a huge help
awesome video lot of help
I think I pulled the power steering arm out to far when I removed the spindle and may have damaged the hydraulic oil seal or the seal popped out, is this an easy fix?
Very helpful video, thanks. Except I have an additional problem. My old bearing is rusted solid inside and I can't break it loose. Tried pounding it, driving a wedge (screwdriver), butane torch to loosen it, nothing.
Tom Osborn I had the same problem. I put a chisel to into the seem and hit it with a hammer. I kept moving the chisel to different spots. It took a while but eventually the old bearing came out.
+Joe Vignolo they make a hammer blow remover tool for this purpose. They're free to rent at some autoparts stores.
Apparently you forgot your working on a Ford haha break out the old Ford tool bfh then tell your buddy to hold my beer and watch this s*** haha
@OHSOOOFLY so u should use a impact gun to take off the bolt, but not put it on correct??
yea, for cars that have the wheel bearing assembly its a pretty easy job.
you don't have to do both sides, buts it's good to check it out. and you use a 30mm axle nut socket for it.
2001 windstar is a 29mm
If the wheel bearing is pooched, can it throw off the traction cuntrol and abs as well and then make the vehicle go into limp biscuit mode?
Do you have to remove the control arm? It seems like you can take it out without removing it.
@OHSOOOFLY
there is no compressive load on that type of wheel bearing.
great video !!!!!!! thank you
@OHSOOOFLY Don't the make an air ratchet that has torque adjustability?
good job!!!
you might want to put the ball joint and the axel ot the proper tourque settings, if you dont youll regreat it .. other wise not a bad video but tourque settings are criticial
thanks for posting them...lol
Does Ford use same size CV nut on most Windstar vans? I just purchased a 30mm deep well socket and it feels sloppy, and it's a 12 point ta boot!
2001 windstar is a 29mm
thank you!!!!
Thanks for sharing
My van didn't have the toner ring on the axle shaft though, so this is probably why I could get at the hub bolts with the axle shaft in place.
is this windstar a 3.0 or a 3.8 , we doing bearing and wheel hub replacement but we running into a problem of installing the new one, the bearings are completely different then the new bearings. mines a 98 windstar 3.0 .. we do not see 3 bolts on the back of the knuckle..mine has 2 small bearings and the racer... the new bearing looks like the one ur using... really need help..
thank you
size of cubes or tools for remove thankyou
I failed. Got the axle nut off easily, calipers, rotors, the axle moved easily in and out, but wouldn't move in far enough to gain access to the top bolt holding the hub. So I tried to separate the ball joint. Removed the pinch bolt, pounded a wedge in to spread the pinch, and started cranking on the ball joint just like he does here, with a 5 foot bar that I put so much torque on the other side of the van started lifting off the jacks. Rather than drop the van, I put it back together. Help?
The axle nut is 30 mm. I'm wondering what size the bolts are that hold the hub on. And the torque settings. Hard to find this info.
15mm to hold.
2001 windstar is a 29mm axle nut hex size....you're going to round the corners with a 30mm
thank you realfixesrealfast you save me money
thanks thatwas very helpful
People wonder why when they go to a shop and get a wheel bearing replaced that it goes out again in 6 months to a year will this video shows you exactly why Notice how he just hammered down the axle nut until the impact wrench could no longer get it any tighter well that's going to ruin that bearing. Axle nuts should be torqued down to the specific manufactures recommendation to insure a long bearing life hammering the axle nut down squeezes the bearing and will cause premature failure.
FoamFlyinFool Possible the impact wrench was set to torque? Or do they even do that?
+Tom Osborn they don't do that.
+Tom Osborn no that was a Ingersoll Rand 231C impact with 600ft Lbs of torque tightening a axle nut to its max power that should be tightened to only 186 ft lbs and the way he drove it onto the splines makes me feel sorry for the next guy to take it apart.
What did he say about an impact wrench at 0:50?
How many miles on the oild bearings?
You can damage the CV shaft by reinstalling the nut with an impact gun.
like the ABS ring tone?
do you have to do both side? or only the side is bad? and what size is that axle nut? ford dealer is charging me 499 for this trick.
2001 windstar is a 29mm
He just shortened the life of that bearing drastically by hammering on it with the impact he was tightening the axle nut with. Also, he didnt seem to use torque specs when tightening down the hub to spindle bolts or the caliper bracket to spindle bolts. Dont use this video for reference!
Tried this today, apparently this wasn't done in the rustbelt. had to beat and pry the ball joint out. Then had to beat and pry the bearing out of the backplate. Took over 2 hours.
wow, consider yourself luck. at least compared to my dumb ass
very helpful , that's mecanic
Sometimes you can jam the rotor against the barake caliper using the metal bar to loose wheel axle nut
THANK YOU
they are 15mm and torque specs are 56ftlbs with a dab of lock tight (blue) and the bearings did not come out that easy for me
The bering should just come loose ??? Lol . Ive seen it take a week for some to beat them out . They seize tight
thats me, wtf. driving me crazy
@@JohnDoe-mp1zk .....I found a way to do it easy ....made a vid , hold
@@JohnDoe-mp1zk ...ruclips.net/video/S30mk48_26s/видео.html
That was CRAZY EASY. I assume thats the same procedure for my 98 Windstar? Thanks!!
tp easy
I don't know if your bearing assembly slipped out that easy or what, but mine is flippin' pressed in. What's up? Are there two different types? You make it look so easy but mine has a retainer ring and the bear has to be pressed out and back in with special tools. If you neglected to tell me this, I'm not too happy now as the van is in the driveway all ripped apart with no place to go. What gives????
I can't get the baring off...
Would have been a lot nicer and more professional if instead of just saying "well you need to take this nut off" you could say "you need to take this 30 mm axle nut." Would be a lot more helpful if you told people the size ahead of time is all I'm saying..
2001 windstar is a 29mm
@kingnard17 Its just that there is tourque specs for most bolts, and its the lazy guys who just use the gun. Im sure its not the right way to do it, just this guys kinda lazy that way. Also by not using the right amount of tourque you can have the improper load on the wheel berring... Just dont be lazy and you will be fine.
Anybody know the tool sizes needed?
SHiny, chrome like finish, yummy.....
I'm very sure I would fuck that up sooo bad!
Wow you must have stripped the shit out of the anxle and nut threads. Why not put a little copper coat in the berring to strut hole and on the axle nut threads and you can turn that nut on by hand not use an impact gun. You should also tourque all those fasters not shoot them on with the airgun.
this is a "hub" replacement video,
hubs are probably all you can get anymore, if those, people don't want to do "bearings", too much work for the average DIY person
You cannot strip the thread and overtighten the axle nut.I tighten everything the German torque spec: good and tight.Most shop do not use a torque wrench since it is a waste of time and tighten the bolts with an impact.I can prove it and the warning not torqueing the axle nut is full of bs.Says you can do damage to the wheelbearing which is full of BS
factory torque specs are supposed to give longevity to said hub bearing....but it wouldn't surprise me if it is false to require premature part replacement.....goootNtight...
@@BiteMeRightHere 100% impossible to fully torque the axle nut down
I took all screws off