Why clamp the hose and bleed out the fluid when pushing back the caliper piston? I have always just opened up the master cylinder brake fluid compartment and pushed it back up into it and there is no need to bleed the brakes when done or add any fluid. Seems like a lot more work for nothing if you ask me.
Hey, Joe, you really saved me one heck of a lot of time and aggravation, especially by telling what size bolts to get to pull the rotors prior to starting the job. Excellent video! You are a gifted teacher, and I am in your debt.
Thanks for this video. I was able to do this by myself and saved a lot of money. Just a tip for beginners like me, make sure you release the parking brake so that you can remove the rotors. I spent 20 minutes trying to figure out why and I was like "doh!"
Awesomely helpful video! I never would've known what size bolt to get to get the rotors off if you hasn't specifically mentioned it in this video. Thanks for being so thorough!
Informative. I replaced my brake pads, after watching the video (also flushed all brake fluid). Couple comments: I didn’t need for the brake line clamp tool, just pushed the pistons in and removed some brake fluid from the MC prior to ensure it doesn’t overflow, simple. Recommend using the” normal” frame area for the jack stands, “much safer.” I used normal brake grease (clips/pins), not the high temp anti-seize grease. Used anti-squeal paste on back of pads. My brakes are nice and quiet :)
Awesome video! Very clear and easy to follow instructions. You guys can easily teach others how to make "How to" videos. Excellent pace with calm, confident vocal instruction. Kudos!
Thank you gentleman! That was a very informative video on how to change the rear brake pads on a 2007 camry. I'm a mechanic, so after watching your video, I was able to change the pads with no problem. Removing and replacing them went smooth as silk. The only thing I would do different, as vivalv59 posted earlier, I would put the jack stands in the normal frame area. Putting them there is much safer. Other than that, I would not change a thing.
Flushing the brake fluid is a good idea when changing the pads. This keeps the brake fluid fresh, and prevents the rubber brake hoses from deteriorating prematurely. Using normal brake grease on clips/pins and anti-squeal paste on back of pads is also fine. You don't have to use anti-seize in these areas, but it's ok also.
The reason why your front pads are fine is because they were changed once already. The rule of thumb is you usually replace your front pads twice before replacing your rear pads. The thread lock is only used so the bolts don't loosen due to normal vibration while driving. You will not have any problem removing them next time you change the pads.
Is it a must, no. When you push the brake caliper piston in the brake fluid will simply be pushed back towards the master cylinder (MC). Yo will need to keep your eye on the MC to make sure it doesn't overflow. I always etract some fluid from the MC prior to starting the work. On a nother note; it's a good idea to flush the fluid when you change the pads, then you will need to open the bleeder...
Hey guys. Do you have to turn the small wheel behind the rotor after putting the new rotor on? I've done the rotors on my camry and the the ebrake pedal engages but feels a lot lighter on the foot now.
It never hurts to push out the caliper pistons even further after brake pads get removed and clean up the build up deposits before scratching the seals pushing them back inside the caliper
Very good video Tnanks. I have never used thread lock on the caliper bolts when chaning brakes. I do not remember seeing that in the chilton manuals that I have used. Do you ever have difficulty remving the bolts after using this? Also I bought my 20007 Toyota Camry at 50,000 miles and at 54,000 miles the rear pads are low but the fronts are still fine. I have never seen that before. Any thoughts? Thanks again for the excellent video.
Second question.. great video by the way!! When you say, "bleed until there is no more air bubbles", is there absolutely going to be bubbles there? And how did they get there.. are the bubbles created when pushing back the piston, or from the previous normal braking process?
@Joe Williams I have an issue! I am mechanically inclined worked on cars since I was very young, here is where I have an issue, Haynes, Chilton manuals give the same info you did as far as the release of the adjustment screw, as well as all data, yet after engaging and disengaging the parking brakes, I still don't see the adjustment screw, I'm afraid of what I might have to do to get the rotor off. Any ideas?
The reason for bleeding is to get rid of air in the brake lines, so your brake pedal doesn't feel spongy when you step on the brakes. As a result, you do replace a few spoonfuls of fluid by doing this, but that is not the main reason for bleeding your brakes.
I thought the reason for bleeding was to actually get rid of a few spoonfuls of oil, because the oil doesn't circulate in the braking system and the piston always operates in the same small pool of oil, so to get some fresh oil in that area..?
Why clamp the hose and bleed out the fluid when pushing back the caliper piston? I have always just opened up the master cylinder brake fluid compartment and pushed it back up into it and there is no need to bleed the brakes when done or add any fluid. Seems like a lot more work for nothing if you ask me.
Hey, Joe, you really saved me one heck of a lot of time and aggravation, especially by telling what size bolts to get to pull the rotors prior to starting the job. Excellent video! You are a gifted teacher, and I am in your debt.
Thanks for this video. I was able to do this by myself and saved a lot of money. Just a tip for beginners like me, make sure you release the parking brake so that you can remove the rotors. I spent 20 minutes trying to figure out why and I was like "doh!"
Awesomely helpful video! I never would've known what size bolt to get to get the rotors off if you hasn't specifically mentioned it in this video. Thanks for being so thorough!
Informative. I replaced my brake pads, after watching the video (also flushed all brake fluid). Couple comments: I didn’t need for the brake line clamp tool, just pushed the pistons in and removed some brake fluid from the MC prior to ensure it doesn’t overflow, simple. Recommend using the” normal” frame area for the jack stands, “much safer.” I used normal brake grease (clips/pins), not the high temp anti-seize grease. Used anti-squeal paste on back of pads. My brakes are nice and quiet :)
Anti-seize compound is not recommended (08:41) instead use clear silicone paste
Hi Joe - I used this video as my main source to get comfortable to change my rear brakes.
And, I had success.
Thank you!
Awesome video! Very clear and easy to follow instructions. You guys can easily teach others how to make "How to" videos. Excellent pace with calm, confident vocal instruction. Kudos!
Thank you gentleman! That was a very informative video on how to change the rear brake pads on a 2007 camry. I'm a mechanic, so after watching your video, I was able to change the pads with no problem. Removing and replacing them went smooth as silk. The only thing I would do different, as vivalv59 posted earlier, I would put the jack stands in the normal frame area. Putting them there is much safer. Other than that, I would not change a thing.
Thank you Joe for the video, keep it up.
Thanks alot for this video, it was a big help.
Very good valuable information thanks for posting
GREAT VIDEO :)
Thank you
Flushing the brake fluid is a good idea when changing the pads. This keeps the brake fluid fresh, and prevents the rubber brake hoses from deteriorating prematurely. Using normal brake grease on clips/pins and anti-squeal paste on back of pads is also fine. You don't have to use anti-seize in these areas, but it's ok also.
The reason why your front pads are fine is because they were changed once already. The rule of thumb is you usually replace your front pads twice before replacing your rear pads.
The thread lock is only used so the bolts don't loosen due to normal vibration while driving. You will not have any problem removing them next time you change the pads.
anti sieze on guide pins? not silicone???
Superbly
Is it a must, no. When you push the brake caliper piston in the brake fluid will simply be pushed back towards the master cylinder (MC). Yo will need to keep your eye on the MC to make sure it doesn't overflow. I always etract some fluid from the MC prior to starting the work. On a nother note; it's a good idea to flush the fluid when you change the pads, then you will need to open the bleeder...
What kind of grease you should use on the caliper bins, sliding brake surface and back of shims?
thanks
Hey guys. Do you have to turn the small wheel behind the rotor after putting the new rotor on? I've done the rotors on my camry and the the ebrake pedal engages but feels a lot lighter on the foot now.
How much different do you think the job would be on a Highlander of the same vintage?
It never hurts to push out the caliper pistons even further after brake pads get removed and clean up the build up deposits before scratching the seals pushing them back inside the caliper
when you bleed the brake fluid key turn on?
Very good video Tnanks. I have never used thread lock on the caliper bolts when chaning brakes. I do not remember seeing that in the chilton manuals that I have used. Do you ever have difficulty remving the bolts after using this?
Also I bought my 20007 Toyota Camry at 50,000 miles and at 54,000 miles the rear pads are low but the fronts are still fine. I have never seen that before. Any thoughts? Thanks again for the excellent video.
Second question.. great video by the way!! When you say, "bleed until there is no more air bubbles", is there absolutely going to be bubbles there? And how did they get there.. are the bubbles created when pushing back the piston, or from the previous normal braking process?
is the 2008 lexus es350 the same???
Where did you get 34 ft lbs of torque from??
@Joe Williams
I have an issue! I am mechanically inclined worked on cars since I was very young, here is where I have an issue, Haynes, Chilton manuals give the same info you did as far as the release of the adjustment screw, as well as all data, yet after engaging and disengaging the parking brakes, I still don't see the adjustment screw, I'm afraid of what I might have to do to get the rotor off. Any ideas?
The brake adjustment "screw" is actually a wheel or gear located around 6 o'clock mark on the hub. Go to the 7:00 minute mark in the video and see.
The reason for bleeding is to get rid of air in the brake lines, so your brake pedal doesn't feel spongy when you step on the brakes. As a result, you do replace a few spoonfuls of fluid by doing this, but that is not the main reason for bleeding your brakes.
I thought the reason for bleeding was to actually get rid of a few spoonfuls of oil, because the oil doesn't circulate in the braking system and the piston always operates in the same small pool of oil, so to get some fresh oil in that area..?
18:00