thanks! i did all 4 brakes, rotors, calipers, and pads successfully thanks to your excellent videos. my biggest challenge was not stripping nuts and bolts because i don't know which way to turn them. Perhaps you could add a note for those of us who are mechanically ignorant of such important details. Thanks again from an English teacher. Paul Falstad
I watched all the vids on this list of sites and yours is by far the clearest, most detailed and best narrated one of them all. I've been doing brakes for about 50 years and I sometimes like to look around and see how many different ways there are to do the same thing. Amazing!! Good job guys. I will be doing my daughters brakes this coming tuesday. There is one thing you failed to do. You didn't DO MY JOB FOR ME!!!! Kidding guys.........good job. Will be looking forward to more of your vids so I can compare. BE careful and remember......get grease on your knees.
Thanks for the great video. You guys did an excellent job covering everything. The only things I did different: 1. Used Sil-glide (silicone based lubricant) on the guide pins. 2. Used Silaramic between the shims and brake shoes. 3. Used Silaramic on the shims between the shims and caliper. 4. Only used C-clamp to compress the caliper after I separated the caliper from the rotor and bracket. This way I only have to compress once. I don't like using anti-seize because it dries up with the high heat from disc brakes and this doesn't allow for the guide pins to slide freely. Thanks again.
Informative video, keep them coming. I replaced my brake pads, after watching the video (also flushed all brake fluid). Couple comments: I didn’t need for the brake line clamp tool, just pushed the pistons in and removed some brake fluid from the MC prior to ensure it doesn’t overflow, simple. Used anti-squeal paste on back of pads. My brakes are nice and quiet now :) Thanks
I would only recommend using the Blue. The Blue (medium strength) along with the proper torque is all you need. The Red is mainly for bolts that you don’t intend on removing on a normal basis. The Red may require heat source (torch, etc.) to get it back off. Use the Blue and you will be just fine.
Very nice calmly voiced instructions!! Also the video work is very nicely done where I can see all the angles. I subscribed and hope all your videos are this instructive! Thanks!!
Good video. Just asking why you didn't clean the caliper bolts and holes before you greased them and why you didn't fully compress the caliper piston the first time. Thanks.
I did my brakes and rotors tonight on the 2009 Camry but after the installation, my brake pedal seems a bit spongy and not as firm as it was before. Can air got into the brake lines? What I did was, remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir then push the caliper, recap, push brake pedal a few times, test drive but its not as firm. Should I drive it a bit more to see if get normal again?
I notice how easily those bracket bolts came off.! Guessing they may have been loosened a bit before hand. I've always done those bolts with a breaker bar but am thinking to give an impact wrench a try. Maybe with some Kroil and heat first. Think I can do it without sheering the bolt?
You can actually push the pistons back in by first opening the brake fluid reservoir cap in the engine bay, then use a flat head and stick it in between the rear pad and caliper. Lean the screwdriver towards you and it will go back in.
Dexion845 I did follow this process, recap the reservoir and test the brake but my brake pedal didn't seem as firm as it once was before the brake job. Any idea? Air couldn't have gotten into the brake lines?
I have a 2007 V6 XLE and my rotors came off without using any bolts to pull them off. I think it just depends on whether or not there's rust between the rotor and axle.
1:33 Should it say "Bolts to remove rotors"? So the size is M8 (8mm not 13) Great video. I replaces in the past just pads. I didn't do any bleeding then and everything worked ok for few years now. Now I have to replace rotors as well. Can i do this without bleeding again?
Do you really need to bleed the caliper to compress the caliper? What's the reason to bleed caliper when pushing caliper piston back in cylinder? There is generally a bleeder hole in the master cylinder to allow brake fluid to return to the reservoir when you compress the caliper.
as long as you compress the caliper slowely you shouldn't have to bleed Ive done brake jobs and rotors on my truck and on this yaris and never bleeded either, and the brakes are still very touchy and solid
Not the way they did it. They clamped the brake line and opened up the bleeder screw to allow for the fluid to be ejected into their bleeder cup when compressing the piston, so the fluid doesn't go back into reservoir.
Авто/Мото
thanks! i did all 4 brakes, rotors, calipers, and pads successfully thanks to your excellent videos. my biggest challenge was not stripping nuts and bolts because i don't know which way to turn them. Perhaps you could add a note for those of us who are mechanically ignorant of such important details. Thanks again from an English teacher. Paul Falstad
Bolts are mostly always left to loosen, right to tighten.
I watched all the vids on this list of sites and yours is by far the clearest, most detailed and best narrated one of them all. I've been doing brakes for about 50 years and I sometimes like to look around and see how many different ways there are to do the same thing. Amazing!! Good job guys. I will be doing my daughters brakes this coming tuesday. There is one thing you failed to do. You didn't DO MY JOB FOR ME!!!! Kidding guys.........good job. Will be looking forward to more of your vids so I can compare. BE careful and remember......get grease on your knees.
Thanks for the great video. You guys did an excellent job covering everything. The only things I did different: 1. Used Sil-glide (silicone based lubricant) on the guide pins. 2. Used Silaramic between the shims and brake shoes. 3. Used Silaramic on the shims between the shims and caliper. 4. Only used C-clamp to compress the caliper after I separated the caliper from the rotor and bracket. This way I only have to compress once. I don't like using anti-seize because it dries up with the high heat from disc brakes and this doesn't allow for the guide pins to slide freely. Thanks again.
Excellent video. I used this to replace my wife's 2009 Lexus ES350 front brake pads and rotors.
I used your video as my guide on my 2009 Camry, and everything went off without a hitch. Thanks so much for your detailed instructions.
I changed my front brake pads today and I used your video as a guide. Thanks.
Thank you Joe. You guys leave no stone unturned and you saved me a very good amount of much needed money.
Thank you! Changed a tire all by myself for the first time thanks to the help of this vid!! Wasn't too hard! Took like 25 - 30 min
The detail and methodical progress of your tutorial is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Thanks! This helped me out a bunch replacing my brakes and calipers.
Thanks for the video. I followed your video when I did my brakes. Soon I will be using it again.
Very helpful video. I'm about to do all rotors & pads on a 2006 Avalon and this was one of the best video I've seen.
only took me a minute to find my solution on getting the rotors off my 2007 Rav4.
Thanks for your vid
Finally know how to remove those front rotors. video is way too long, but very well laid out. Thank you!!!
I needed a review before replacing my brakes today. Very well done. Thanks.
Great Video . I used to repair my 2009 Toyota Camry . Thank you very much.
Great video, perfect pace, super editing and excellent instruction and commentary. Thanks guys.
Jim K - top notch instruction and camera work. Thank you very much.
Super video with step by step instructions. Thanks for showing both sides without cutting time or steps.
Informative video, keep them coming. I replaced my brake pads, after watching the video (also flushed all brake fluid). Couple comments: I didn’t need for the brake line clamp tool, just pushed the pistons in and removed some brake fluid from the MC prior to ensure it doesn’t overflow, simple. Used anti-squeal paste on back of pads. My brakes are nice and quiet now :) Thanks
Very helpful how to video. Thank you.
wonderful with this instruction it was so easy to get the job done.
I would only recommend using the Blue. The Blue (medium strength) along with the proper torque is all you need. The Red is mainly for bolts that you don’t intend on removing on a normal basis. The Red may require heat source (torch, etc.) to get it back off. Use the Blue and you will be just fine.
Very nice calmly voiced instructions!! Also the video work is very nicely done where I can see all the angles. I subscribed and hope all your videos are this instructive! Thanks!!
Best video ever found. thanks a million.
Excelent video, thanks for sharing.
An Excellent video. Everything is exactly as shown. I would have liked he go over the bleeding brakes part a lil more but it's a excellent video.
brake job completed thanks for the great video.
Great video. Thank you very much
great video.
Thank you very much.
that was great job, very good video nice and clear
keep teaching, I will keep learning
quite informative thanks!
thanks for the great instruction.....i will let you know how my repair goes.
Good job guys
Excellent!
very detailed for DiyERS
I love your videos, I'm taking college auto classes and I love how you describe everything perfectly down to the tool sizes thanks a million!
great video! thanks for that! Do you know if the process is the same for a 2004 Toyota Camry LE?
Good video. Just asking why you didn't clean the caliper bolts and holes before you greased them and why you didn't fully compress the caliper piston the first time. Thanks.
Will this work for an 04 Camry LE
I did my brakes and rotors tonight on the 2009 Camry but after the installation, my brake pedal seems a bit spongy and not as firm as it was before. Can air got into the brake lines? What I did was, remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir then push the caliper, recap, push brake pedal a few times, test drive but its not as firm. Should I drive it a bit more to see if get normal again?
Which slide pin has the black "O" ring on the tip?
I notice how easily those bracket bolts came off.! Guessing they may have been loosened a bit before hand. I've always done those bolts with a breaker bar but am thinking to give an impact wrench a try. Maybe with some Kroil and heat first. Think I can do it without sheering the bolt?
Absolutely it doesn't need eather pads or routers.
Excellent, very thorough, will put into practice.
Thank you
Did the bolts come with the new rotor?
what size bolts did you use to take the rotors off?were those bolts from the caliper? great video..... thanks
+reddog9401 13mm
Is this the same for a 2007 Toyota Prius?
Does the sliding caliper guide pin with the rubber bushing go on the top or bottom of caliper?
Bottom
You can actually push the pistons back in by first opening the brake fluid reservoir cap in the engine bay, then use a flat head and stick it in between the rear pad and caliper. Lean the screwdriver towards you and it will go back in.
Dexion845 I did follow this process, recap the reservoir and test the brake but my brake pedal didn't seem as firm as it once was before the brake job. Any idea? Air couldn't have gotten into the brake lines?
my car is xle, I guess to take care of the rotors I also need the 2 bolts to pull them out?
I have a 2007 V6 XLE and my rotors came off without using any bolts to pull them off. I think it just depends on whether or not there's rust between the rotor and axle.
Where did you get 25 ft lbs and 79 ft lbs from?
I have an XLE, 2007. Are the brakes and rotors much different on the V6 XLE? Thank you.
Chris did you find out about your rotors? I have the same question you asked few weeks ago
They're the same. I know it's been a while since you asked, so you probably already got an answer, but I thought I'd post just in case you haven't.
1:33 Should it say "Bolts to remove rotors"? So the size is M8 (8mm not 13) Great video. I replaces in the past just pads. I didn't do any bleeding then and everything worked ok for few years now. Now I have to replace rotors as well. Can i do this without bleeding again?
8mm is the bolt diameter, but you use a 13mm socket on their hex head.
Do you really need to bleed the caliper to compress the caliper? What's the reason to bleed caliper when pushing caliper piston back in cylinder? There is generally a bleeder hole in the master cylinder to allow brake fluid to return to the reservoir when you compress the caliper.
as long as you compress the caliper slowely you shouldn't have to bleed
Ive done brake jobs and rotors on my truck and on this yaris and never bleeded either, and the brakes are still very touchy and solid
Why permanent red loctite instead of blue?
You just have to watch you brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir doesn't overflow when you compress caliper. Is that not so?
Not the way they did it. They clamped the brake line and opened up the bleeder screw to allow for the fluid to be ejected into their bleeder cup when compressing the piston, so the fluid doesn't go back into reservoir.
like
about 200-300
Did anyone ever tell you that you kinda sound a lot like Billy bob Thornton?
over charger