Chris, You are what is good about the internet and You Tube. I have been working on my own cars for 50 years and your videos and tips are done so well and if anyone out there needs helped and have tried to find an honest mechanic who charges fair prices and (they are getting harder to find) then don’t be afraid to try it yourself. Chris makes it easy to follow do what he says step by step and don’t be lazy and skip any steps because they really can help parts last.
@@Power_Glove Turn the steering wheel, jack, replace breaks, set down, turn the steering wheel, jack, replace breaks, set down. Just plan ahead. And if you don't plan, to plan ahead, if you are like me you will not do it!
Chris, I just finished doing my brakes and here's one you forgot to mention. "Wear those Latex gloves unless you want to be spending an equal amount of time washing your hand afterwards." You can put like five layers of them on so you just peel the outside glove off each time they get used up. No fumbling trying to put new ones on with sweaty hands. Thanks again!
I have become far more handy with my car and house over past decade due to RUclips. And honestly your extra tip is as important as nearly any on car work. even if you use 4 pairs of latex gloves doing a brake job (due to taking a break, having to help your kid with something, hands get too sweaty, etc) it is a major time saver. Yes some latex waste, but washing hands in hot water for 5 minutes is not exactly waste free.
It's really important to mention about pressing the brake pedal right before the brake job is finished. Working at the dealer we had one technician get crushed by a vehicle as another technician tried to deliver the car to the owner. The guy got crushed as he was between the tool box and the car. He got paralyzed because of someone forgeting to press the brake pedal. Safety is always first.
@@lyianxso you know how you compress the break cylinder to install the break pads. We’ll press the breaker to add that tension again and be able to stop. If that thing doesn’t have pressure you’ll step the break all the way in and won’t be able to stop on time
I really like your no-nonsense car fix videos. It's especially helpful when you shove the camera in those hard to see places to show everyone. Keep it up!
ChrisFix helps new car guys out or just people wanting to learn. I appreciate your videos they help out alot. Very informative and with video to show most too.
Been changing brakes for myself, friends, and family for around 20 years and I only do about half of these tips. I'm definitely going to incorporate some more of them into my next project! As you said, these things are often overlooked. If you don't do them, you're not necessarily doing the job "wrong", but why skip such easy steps which will help avoid future problems when you already have the system apart? Awesome video!
Got someone to do my front brakes a week ago, watched them do it and thought "damn i could have saved myself 40 bucks" Going to get educated and do the rear myself, maybe ill be on your level one day doing brakes for others
Eric Prado It’s actually not too hard if you got the right tools that’s important it makes the job 10x more easy with the right tools. Hardest part is getting the car jacked up safely but even that’s easy once you do it a few times
Great tips, quick update to accommodate newer vehicles....for those who may not know, don't try to compress the rear brake caliper pistons if the vehicle has EPB (Electronic Parking Brake). There are some work arounds but you should use a diagnostic to put the EPB in service mode or risk costly damage
depends on the car the subaru i have uses electric parking brake on drum brake and the disk part on rear for driving you just have to release parking brake to get rotor drum combo off
Was gonna add this but its about 2 years too late haha. My mom had a 2020 Corolla, and you basically had to put in the Konami code to release the EPB. It's not hard to do but confusing, especially since I mostly work on 2000s domestic vehicles, and my truck is a 04, so I can just hit it, and it fixes itself. That damn Corolla was confusing af, being a Japanese manufacturer, and pretty new.
@@g19634 I've seen service technician at Mazda dealership compressed the piston without releasing the bleeder valve nor removing the reservoir cap. That's definitely going to screw up the abs pump module. Removing the reservoir cap technique is useful when you don't have another person assisting you on your brake job.
Thanks Chris! I've been teaching Auto Technology for 20+ years and this is the best brake video I've seen. These are the things that separate a professional brake job from a shade tree. I emphasize every one of your tips and now my students know I'm not the only one stressing these things. Good production as well. I Subscribed to your channel. Keep up the good work! Bill Kitt Automotive Technology Professor ASE Master Tech, L1,
Exactly. One reason I started doing my own brakes when I was younger. Shops weren't cleaning parts and greasing pins. Just little simple things that make your brakes function at top efficiency.
Its good not the best. No lubrication added to main boot at the caliper. No discussion of loctite should be added at saddle bolts and caliper bolts. Should wire wheel the bolts as well too bring back too nice clean threads. Anti seize should be applied at all mating surfaces. Caliper too saddle ect. Also behind the rotor that mates too the hub so both surfaces are sealed and one doesn't rust before the other. Also cookie cleaning everything with a compressor beats a wire brush most times unless you can't get into the spots.
Chris, I agree with every aspect of this video with two exceptions. Factory trained VW/Porsche/ Audi tech, aerospace/racing fabricator and crew chief of several regional SCCA class winners. 1) Something I see time and time again on RUclips brake repl. videos it seems virtually everyone insists of replacing the rotors at every brake pad change?? WHY??? If not excessively worn beyond the factory thickness specs, (often found stamped on OEM rotors) nor is warpage/runout beyond spec, (checked with a dial indicator,) why is everyone suggesting rotor replacement during routine pad replacement??? What ever happened to turning the rotors on a brake lathe?? If final cut is within thickness specs and no runout, reinstall. What are shops now to do with that expensive AMMCO brake lathe?? This has worked well for decades, why not now?? Most all of the aftermarket rotors are made overseas of inferior materials. Example...On a track record setting SCCA A Sedan class car using Corvette rotors/calipers, the hard abrasive pads used on track eat away at the rotors. Checking/finding now undersized one race weekend, purchased a set of supposed 'Corvette' rotors from local car parts store. Cleaned/scuffed with abrasive. After just one practice session after properly bedding in new pads, the rotors had extreme heat stress cracking throughout and 0.025+ runout both sides. Very, very dangerous!!! Removed, reinstalled the OEM rotors to finish the weekend. PS: Driver complained of brake pedal pulsation, clear indicator of warped rotors. 2) Something forgotten by so many including this video is procedure to properly bed in a new set of pads, especially important if also installing new rotors. If NOT done, pads will heat glaze, reducing the stopping ability and a major cause of brake squeal. Brakes will last longer, work better and reduce noise. Perhaps best as a stand alone video linked to this one??
Based on my personal experience and failures: Always use a torque wrench to go over all the bolts before re-installing the tire. My worse experience was forgetting to tighten one of the bolts on the caliper mounts. Good thing the one bolt that I DID tighten held off for a good half a mile to where I could stop to investigate what happened. I will never make the same mistake again. It could have resulted in a bad accident but thank God it didn't. Also as described by this video, using the proper lubrication for the guide pins is a must. I've had bad experiences where a 'professional' mechanic failed to use the proper full synthetic silicon lubricant. It caused the rubber boot to swell up and seize up the guide pin. I had a hell of a time trying to get it out. Great video, Chris!
+Geir Slotsvik 10 years aircraft avionics and A&P fighter jets, heavies, and currently on helos. Even professionals get too relax sometimes and slip one through the crack. I'm an amateur when it comes to cars but I apply the same principles when I do my own car repairs and preventative maintenance. I ain't perfect, but I learn from my mistakes and those of others. I still rely on manuals for specifics like torque values and measurements. Never stop learning is the best advice I've gotten from my superiors. 20 years experience is great although i wouldn't rely fully on torque by feel in my area of work. Kudos!
Yes! Greasing the guide pins is one step that most of the brake job videos on RUclips tend to leave out…. One thing you did leave out that most others do also is that before you press the piston back into the caliper, you should remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and wrap a towel around the reservoir to catch any brake fluid that may seep out as you are pressing the piston back into the caliper…
As always Chris, this is an excellent video, (just like all the others you’ve made that I’ve watched). The video is an education in itself. One tip that may be useful; it’s always difficult to keep the pad material clean when handling brake grease, so I cover the friction surfaces with masking tape until I’m ready to fit the pads to the caliper. This helps to keep the pads grease and dirt free.
Great brake tips! One thing I do every time I inspect or change the brakes is condition the rubber parts. I use silicone spray on hoses, guide pin boots etc to keep them from cracking and failing.
Chris, thank you for some excellent tips. You made my day. Starting with tip #1, that one really rocks. I've watched brakes being replaced as well as doing them myself throughout the years. I've never seen anyone turn the wheel for easier access. It's been years since I've done brakes but, today I'll feel like I can tackle them with confidence and ease using all of your tips. That also goes for the tips in the comments your subscribers shared. Thank you all for making my day an easier one. You and your subscribers rock,
Sometimes you don't know what tools you'll need until you hit that oh shit point in a job and realize you didn't have what you thought you did. Those tools vary by car and model, so you'll hit that point eventually if you don't have a full garage.
I really liked tip #8. What I usually do when compressing the piston, is just crack the cap on the reservoir so the fluid can go back up without building pressure in there. And for those of you that don't have a brake caliper compressor, just use a C-clamp on the caliper while it is still bolted on.
this can be a problem for vehicles with antilock brakes, pushing the fluid back up the brake lines can damage the antilock module, which is a very expensive component to replace. but, if it's an older vehicle that doesn't have antilock brakes this is what i do and after the calipers are fully retracted, i suck all of the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder and replace it with new fluid before pumping up and bleeding the new brakes.
C clamp is always my go to, just place a socket in the piston hole and press against that so your not clamping the actual surface of the piston to avoid any damage from the clamp :)
Another tip I’ve learned through working in the field is to always unscrew the cap of the brake fluid reservoir. It’ll make pushing the piston back a whole lot easier
He released the bleeder valve so he didn’t need to do that but if you’re afraid of getting air in your brake system that’s a great idea the cap on the reservoir
I did this. I used slip joint pliers to get the piston down. No problem. I would much rather the brake fluid reservoir overflow a bit than have to bleed the air. Put some rags around to catch the extra. When you finish you can put the reservoir cap back on, pump the brakes, and if you're lucky the level will come back to near the max level. If over that upper limit you'll have to bring out the turkey baster or similar to siphon a bit off.
#11 loosen the Master cylinder cap. This released pressure on the entire system, and serves as a back up if you use the caliper bleeder. Or if you don't want or can't loosen the bleeders, this reduced pressure allows the piston to go in easier and avoid straining or damaging the anti lock system.
My top tips. Don't handle the pads with dirty hands. Don't touch the friction material face at all if you can help it. Put grease on anything that rubs together, silicone if its protected with a rubber boot, lug nut torque is important and too much will warp your new rotors, and do not forget to break you pads in.
@@nojustumasbacauskas7175 ur tip stay on top of it there is a coat hanger calliper bungi and a spray the metal clips to not over exceed brake pad fitments and unlike cleaner any parts can be done as a dirt check or spray but the bleeding bit fluid contaminated come out on the wheel is thought ans this were after locating where the greese got into from another rubber isolator and lucky the wheel stays on as well as the tyre
Got some tips for everyone. These tips ensure there will be no noise on the test drive. I used to work at Brake Masters and learned from a good mechanic who never had a car come back. 1. Once you take off the wheel and have access to the brakes, remove the bracket (s) closest to the line right away without thinking. It frees up space for you without turning the wheel and it becomes routine once you see how easy it makes it. 2. Go ahead and remove the bracket without removing the caliper from the bracket. This is just two bolts. Wiggle the assembly to free it and carefully remove. Remove the brake pads one by one and just slide the caliper off of the bracket. It helps to use your hands symmetrically and hold the assembly like a burger. 3. Remove the rotor. Don't use a hammer unless you are going to use a new rotor and check that the rotors match before you whack it. Nothing sucks more than realizing you have the wrong part and have to go back to the parts store.Take a quick note in your pocket notebook of the orientation of the hardware on the bracket if there is any. Put on some gloves and glasses. Can't stress the importance of using safety glasses during this part. Dilute some degreaser into a spray bottle and spray to your heart's content around the dust shield, the hub, behind the hub (very important), the caliper all over and in the piston hole, and the brackets all over. Use a long wire brush, a skinny long wire brush and preferably a cup brush that goes on the end of a Chuck drill and clean all of the brake dust off the pieces. Keep the drill in the wheel well so you don't dirty the car when it flings. During this part you will be using your wire brushes when all the parts are wet with degreaser. This is so much better than what I used to do because you will not be suffering from asbestos since it is too wet to float in the air. Brush every nook and cranny including where the hardware fits in. The only parts you shouldn't scrub are inside the piston, any rubber parts and the slide pins. After scrubbing spray degreaser until the stream runs mostly clean as it drips off the dirty parts. Be careful of the rubber boots on the slide pins or on the caliper and spray brake clean from the top to the bottom and you will see it run clean within a couple sprays from top to bottom. Use brake clean strategically, spray generally from top to bottom however the parts are oriented. Go with gravity and keep that money in your pocket. Spray until degreaser and brake dust are gone. If you run out of brake cleaner you can use water in a pinch but I do not recommend it as common practice. 4. Compress caliper. NOTE!! Do not EVER press a caliper piston back in while other calipers are removed. Doing so will pop another piston out and then you're in trouble. Just do the brakes one wheel at a time. I know this part sounds unnecessary but it prevents noise initially: take a normal flat metal file and file the new brake pads at the corners at a 45° angle where the sides meet the braking surface. This takes care of the sharp 90° angle shape that the brakes arrive in. This prevents the paint on the sides of the pads from building up right away. 5. Make sure every part is completely dry the brake clean should've helped with that very quickly. Use caliper grease and apply to slide pins, and the "ears" of the brake pads. Wet the tips of your thumb and index finger with caliper grease and just rub it all over every piece of hardware. You basically want a coat so thin on the hardware you can't see it but you can feel it. Install the gently greased hardware onto the bracket. 6. Make sure the face of the hub that contacts the rotor is completely cleaned and apply copper, nickel or aluminum anti seize sparingly to the flat face of the hub and don't get any on the lug studs/threads. This can kill someone of their lugs come loose on a highway. You don't have to get anti seize that close to the lugs for it to work anyways. Now spray your new rotor from top to bottom if it has grease on it with brake cleaner. Make sure it is dry and install the rotor and secure it. 7. Slide the caliper and bracket back together, secure the rubber boots to their spots and squish the air out of the boots. Make sure the pins are as deep as they go and install the brake pads one by one. It can be a trick at first but if you get it once you got it forever. I repeat make sure that the slide pins are fully in as deep as they go into the caliper before you install the pads. The pads might not fit if you don't make sure the slide pins are in all the way for the entire time you are installing both pads. Use the law of symmetry while installing each pad. They should slide in with minimal resistance. If they are not sliding in make sure that your hardware is nice and firm against the bracket and proceed to continue installing the brake pads. Do not force anything ever when installing anything having to do with brakes. If it is not I stalling easily something is in the way. Just stop and look to see what is in the path's space occupation of motion. Don't get any grease or oils on the actual brake pad material. It will deep into the pad the moment it touches so if you do accidentally get grease on the pad spray the spot immediately with a few spurts of brake cleaner and you will be fine. Now make sure your gloves thumbs are dry and hold the entire assembly like a burger which includes the bracket and caliper and brake pads and put your thumbs in between the brake pads to keep them from moving. Pick up this assembly as described and carefully install once you have the rotor in between the brakes your golden take your time and screw in theTOP BRACKET BOLT FIRST. This prevents your brake assembly from tilting back by accident and having to start over installing your pads. Button everything up and if you are reusing the same bracket bolts go above the factory torque spec at your discretion. Factory torque specs are meant to be used on new bolts and nuts since the shape of the nuts and bolts' threads are factory fresh. Their shape changes once they have been used so go tighter than factory specs especially on the bracket bolts. Mount the brake line bracket. Make sure you use your strength and push and pull the caliper with your hand to make sure everything moves smoothly and that there are no noises. If you followed these directions there will be no noise. Go to the brake pedal and press on the brake pedal several times at first it'll be squishy but it will end up firm as usual. Do not start the car until you have a firm brake pedal. If there is any kind of squeaking while breaking you missed something, maybe wipe some WD-40 on the brake pedal pivot point but if there is any noise coming from any of the actual brake assemblies you missed something. Probably lube.Hope this helps
I always appreciate your videos Chris! One thing I encountered on my very first break job was threaded holes in the face of the rotor near the lug holes - insert a couple bolts and tighten them a half turn or so alternating between the two and it pops that rust weld in a flash without a hammer getting involved!
ChrisFix Idea: what about a video on air tools. I always appreciate your approach of using common handtools. But if a guy wanted to invest in some air tools, what would you recommend? Maybe some info on like air pressure, common socket sizes to get etc. Thanks!
Great tips Chris! Thought I'd mention one more important reason to crack the nipple and let out brake fluid when pushing the piston back - when you push fluid up and back to the master cylinder you can damage seals and control valves $$ especially on older vehicles as the seals start deteriorating with age.
Great tips Mr. ChrisFix! You are clear and concise with your audio & video and right to the point for us "DIY's". So there I am with my arsenal of tools at hand with you streaming on my laptop again last weekend replacing my daughters drum brakes.......although I had to pause your video dozens of times I still knocked the job out (and still had time to watch some football)! You have saved me a TON of money while making me look like I actually know what I am doing! Many thanks from balmy Las Vegas, Nevada. Regards, D. Scott
My only tip to add to this is to use an impact socket when using an impact wrench. I've seen a number of people break chrome sockets on an impact. That can be pretty dangerous. Not only can things go flying, the broken socket can be very sharp.
RickMakes I broke a phillips head bit with an impact socket wrench when I was trying so hard to get a seized screw off my rotor on my old Civic. It wouldn't come loose and I kept on trying then the bit snapped.
Tip11: Never pump out the caliper piston too far whilst cleaning the rubber boot otherwise it'll cause brake fluid to leak or the piston to drop off completely causing you to spend hours trying to get the piston and rubber boot back into the caliper as well as re-bleeding the brake system to get the air lock out of the master clinder...and don't ask me how I know all that😳😳
@@Itsyunlo I use bendix brake grease sold in those small packets you get from your auto stores...they cost about $2.50...one packets does two calipers.
@@williamb8479 I used permatex silicon ceramic grease for the hardware and back of pads a bit. then permatex silicon-only for caliper guide pins and what not
Good tips bro! However, please also consider adding more tips to deal with heavy rust build up in practically all stationary metal-to-metal contact points. For example, all around the brake pads, underneath the thin metal shims/clips, between the caliper and its mounting bracket, etc. Newbies find it hard to remove various components simply because they just don't know what's normal and what's not in terms of movement between various parts. Rust causes so much binding in relatively short period that it often requires repeated but gentle hammering to remove the caliper assembly and its mounting bracket from the rotors. Newbies don't always know that it's OK to hammer them out gently. Also, the wire brush is not always sufficient to remove the rust. Hard scraping using a flat-head screwdriver or a dremmel rotory brush/grinder, sandpaper or even a file may be necessary depending on where people live. Rust might not be a big problem in dry/desert states, but it's a huge issue in states with even modest annual rain or snow fall.
if you live in the rust belt or anywhere where they salt the roads in winter you will never have a solution to rust. common aluminum-based anti-seize compound actually makes the rust worse due to galvanic corrosion, the only anti-seize that works in this situation is nickel-based, which is hard to find and more expensive but worth the cost.
Thanks Chris. I've changed brakes before and have been told that I'm paranoid for constantly spraying down brake parts during installation. Good to know my instincts were right!
This is the best video I have seen. I put the silicone grease on the piston and the piston boot too . I also put it on the slide area of the caliper and the caliper bracket . I have been doing this for 20 plus years now . I do like the tip on the brake fluid . Two thumbs up !!!
spent an hour beating the shit out the rotor from different angles when changing my rear brakes, without anything happening. took the handbreak off and 30 seconds later it came off easy..
james smalling I had the same problem, my rotors wouldn't come off after a beating. luckily I saw on RUclips, that there are two m8 screw holes which when you put in two screws, it breaks the rotor off
Hey Chris, your videos are awesome! I love how you get to the point, it's well structured and also I like how you say "consider subscribing" instead of "make sure to subscribe"
Have a long breaker bar and impact wrench handy especially in the rust belt states. Did my brakes today for the first time and everything went well except for some stubborn caliper bracket bolts. Your videos really help.
Truly a great video. Solid tips and efficient delivery. I think the bleed part is likely out of many's desire to do but still good to add that as a tip.
Great tips, I'd add get rubber covers for the bleed screw and change them every time you do your discs/rotors as the rubber can wear away. Covers protect the brake bleed screws from seizing and corroding.
Hey Chris, I've got another tip for your brake collection. I just finished a brake overhaul on a 1980s Chevy of mine, and on test drives, everything was fine except for a slight scraping sound every once in a while from the right front that would disappear as soon as I moved the steering wheel at all. It was the metal splash guard. It was slightly bent, so it would just barely scrape the rotor under the right conditions. I was able to bend it so it didn't scrape, but it would have been easier to do before I installed the calipers. So I would suggest doing a dry-fit of the rotors and flexing your splash guards if you have them to make sure you've got even clearance all around the rotor before installing the calipers. If it looks like they might scrape, bend the splash guard to get proper clearance.
When I was about 16 yrs old I almost took off my car door backing out of the garage after changing my brakes for the first time. LOL Much easier and cheaper to learn from someone else's mistakes!
First time I did front discs, pumped the brakes - all good. Realized I was late to pick my gf up from work, slammed it in reverse, slammed it in to a wall! Learning - its what we do.
Hey! It went very well, 2 1/2 hours first side going really sloooooooooowly I hour second side! I love fixing stuff but I usually go to garage, fronts done for £63.00 discs and pads, last time I paid £250. I'm told I can fix anything but I had no confidence on fixing the van or car so I can't thank you enough. No wonder you have so many subscribers! 6,000,000! That video where you got your mum her dream car, it blew me away! You must be up there with the nicest person on RUclips rating if there is such a thing, along with Mark Rober if I may say, although why he's hanging about with some college kid drop out Bill gates I think his name is I don't know. Another fine example of how the Internet is a force for good. Best wishes from Broxburn Central Scotland. David
I’ve spent over a half hour reading the comments. It is so refreshing to not read a ton of swearing 🤬. Your subscribers (including myself) are an educated lot. I’m an old man, but I certainly enjoy your videos 🤗!
Hey Chris, I have always done your 10 tips independently. We must both be geniuses. Tip #11: The bleeder nipple can be frozen in the caliper. If so, remove the caliper and empty the fluid. Heat the area of the caliper where the nipple threads into it. The nipple will usually break free. Use a new nipple. Weather the nipple was frozen or not, put some anti seize on the threads and they will never freeze.
Am glad to come across this one a day prior to me tackling the brakes on my car. Did this on my motorcycle multiple times but, it is a first go on the car. Thanks for all your efforts. Greatly appreciated.
Just subscribed after several hours of binge watching lol Will certainly consider joining as well. Appreciate you're straight forward approach knowing your subscribers have the basic idea. I started wrenching 40 years ago, starting with bicycle's, lawn mowers, Mopeds. Cars trucks houses. Didn't have instruction other than who you knew and printed shop manuals, often covering many years with different options. Helps to see a slightly different approach that is well demonstrated. Owned many Rangers. 2.3 Lima, 2.3 duratec to over 300k. Rusted frames the death nell. My son and I are close and he was raised on Fox bodies, F series and Rangers. He's Navy, stationed in JAX with a nice 2010 Ranger 4x4, 4.0 5spd, badass 05 GT 4.6 and just picked up a 95 del sol Honda as a daily gas sipper. Still have my 89 LX 5.0 vert I bought in '94. Father son '90 hatch 2.3 turbo swap that runs part time. The daily is a 2010 2.3 auto RWD Ranger. Solid at 168K. Old City of Columbus (Ohio) fleet truck I will be installing front hub/rotor, wheel bearings, rear discs/pads with a rust storm in hopes of salvaging calipers/brackets. Too much information, but wanted say that I don't subscribe to very many you tube feeds. Keep on brother !!!
Also when you finish any brake job pump the pedal and make sure it gets firm. This is so you don't get any surprises when your driving away for the first time!
Hi Chris, i did change rear brake pads for my Nissan Qashqai after i watched your video many times. now i am very confident to do it myself. My next project is to change brake rotter. Many thanks for details guides. from UK
after watching this video a dozen times in preparation for my first diy brake change next week, i FINALLY understood tip number eight. i don’t know why i was so afraid of it!! now i get it, consider it done!!
Another tip: Change both sides of the axle at the same time but, not necessarily both axles. EXAMPLE: You suspect front left is low due to noise. You measure and discover that the front left pad and or rotor are less than the discard specifications. Replace both the left front and right front pads and rotors. PS: Great tip on cylinder and cylinder boot. Never thought of that in the past.
John's top tip #11: You have a brake pad wear indicator under your hood that is easily viewed. After installing new pads all around, bleed enough fluid so new fluid is in all calipers (a brake fluid change). Top up the brake reservoir. Then NEVER add brake fluid to the reservoir while these pads are on the car. The fluid level decrease will be an easy indicator of brake pad wear. Put tape on the cap so the oil change place doesn't mess with it. The reservoir will hold significantly more fluid than the pistons can displace even if the pads are 100% worn down to where steel from the pad is touching all four rotors. A brake system that doesn't have a leak will never run out of fluid, I promise. Your low brake fluid level light will indicate the pads are worn or a leak in the brake system. Either way your gonna fix it. Topping up your fluid will subsequently force you to take off the tires to inspect the pads. Fluid level is in direct proportion to pad wear.
This is absurd, there is a reason your reservoir is the size it is. What happens when a line bursts? Congratulations, you just screwed yourself out of a safe stop.
Very well explained, this video was the reason I want to learn on fixing my own car rather than paying someone to do it which cost a lot of money. It seems simple if you have the right tools for the job and knowledge. Well done mate
A second tip: Here in road salt country, wheels and rotors often get fused to the hub. Loosen the lug nuts one turn before lifting the car, drive some S turns in the driveway, then lift the car and the wheels will be loose!
Or you can get a brake puller a good heavy duty one. Bang the drum or rotor couple times loosens some rust spray the hub around the studs with WD40 let it set for a bit. Put your puller in place and crank it with a wrench make sure you put the lug nuts back on not tight but just snug and it’ll pop off with no issues.
Opening the bleeder valve while compressing the pistons is an awesome idea! Saves having to bleed them all the time (especially when you track a car a lot). BTW, use a wire wheel on a drill to get all the rust off the hub. It's faster and far better than a manual brush. Just an FYI.
True i also think chris uses more simple hand tools so that his watchers don't feel intimidated needing to spend 100s of dollars on power tools. Although you can totally use them like you suggested
Doing my brakes today, just wanted a refresh, good tip I find been doing for years and why I don’t like having a shop do it, is far to often I see pros not using gloves just bare hands handling the new pads esspecially and have seen some won’t name on youtube exposed manhandle the new rotors, hands also have natural oils in them no matter how clean they are, so they actually contaminate the new pads and rotors, using gloves like you have on says allot, props for that and great tips picked up a couple re the silicone grease nice, cheers.
Hey Chris thanks for another great vid I am learning a lot off of you and you got my sub for sure. Cheeky request, could you do a video on how to troubleshoot all the different brake noises you can get and what they could mean or how to stop or prevent them etc? I am going to go and check my brakes now because I heard some squealing yesterday and I thought it was just dust or a stone caught in the rotor but it might be the bear wear indicator. I am confused though because the noise lasted for maybe 15 mins and it depended on steering and changed with how much brake used but was almost always there and then stopped. Any suggestion welcome btw
One of my top fifteen is to slightly loosen the lug nuts just a turn or two, called "breaking", while the wheels are still on the ground. This way, when the car is up on the jack stands, getting the lug nuts off is a heck of lot easier. Another tip is too tape off, prime and paint the bare hub of the rotor, the part of course that doesn't come in contact with the pads. I also get off any rust and prime and paint the hub but that's just me. I hate rust.
I got my Forester to the shop for the brake job (front pads and discs) and they didn't wash off manufacturer oil and now I'm squeaking every.single.time. Now I'm taking every easier jobs my self. Hate paying incompetent people for the job. ChrisFix for the win! :D
@@chrisfix Darn! You're answering on instagram pm and youtube comments on 4y old video! I've been watching you for 5 years now. You are truly amazing! I wish you all the best and thank you for all the work and time you're putting into the videos :)
A big one (that I learnt today!) was when compressing the caliper piston, be careful of your brake fluid levels. As I compressed the front right piston (after having already completed the left wheel), brake fluid started leaking from the reservoir in the engine bay. This then dripped down the engine bay and onto the concrete below, I though I'd botched the whole job and blown a seal in the break line. It turns out, as your pads wear down, the break fluid levels drop over time. When you get your car serviced, the mechanic tops this up. Now you come along and compress that piston all the way flush with the caliper, and that extra brake fluid has to go somewhere!! A friend recommended siphoning Just a small amount from the reservoir prior to compressing the piston. Brake fluid is cleaned with warm, soapy water by the way HAHAHA!
An added advantage to releasing pressure at the bleeder screw is to avoid back-pressure on the brake proportioner. Supposedly that can potentially damage valves in that unit and cause it to malfunction.
There's something soothing about Chris' calmer voice in his earlier videos. The new videos are great, make no mistake. But there's a feeling of 'old-friend-just-helping-you-fix-your-car' type of vibe with Chris' old vid.
Remember to include to tighten the wheel to the manufactured specs. Using a impact wrench (over-torquing)can cause uneven pad wear. The cheap tire places did this to me, so I speak from experience.
Soon as possible after having anyone with an impact gun on wheels I take out the lug wrench and a long pipe for leverage and loosen then tighten each lug by hand one a time. This way if a flat or other service is needed I know I can get the wheels off. They guerrilla at least one lug 90% of the time and if you leave it that way not only can it cause other problems but you will not be able to get the wheel off. I also remove and reinstall any lug locks myself, not letting the impact gun cause damage or over-torque to them as happened once.
The tip over greasing guide pins apparently doesn't work with all cars, i used to do this, but recently i changed pads on my bmw e93 and i read that the manual says do not grease them. Overall helpful video. Can add couple things, as a lot ppl mentioned, pump the brakes after brake job before taking off. Brush good the parts on caliper carrier and caliper where the pad slides against, and use anti squeal paste on the contact areas. Before retracting the cylinder it's good to spray grease underneath the rubber boot. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap before retracting the cylinder, makes it much easier (though pushing out fluid through bleeding valve will do the same). Use copper grease when putting back the wheel, it will prevent the wheel from rust seizing on the rotor, make sure to clean the rotor from any of the grease that accidentally has dripped or sprayed on the pad contact area.
Hey ChrisFix - I think another tip for some folks is to use just a small bit of anti-seize on the lug studs. This helps in keeping the studs and lug nuts from binding and possibly snapping. In very small amounts it doesn't allow the lug nut to loosen over time, but will allow it to come off with an impact. Literally the worst feeling in the world is when you snap a stud trying to take off a lug nut you just put on a month ago.
Never lube lug studs with anything, anti-seize included. The studs are meant to remain dry. Not only will lube cause your torque values to be incorrect (assuming you torque your lugs properly), lube will also cause your lug nuts to come loose. Not good! Over-torquing is what causes binding and snapping off of lug studs. Use proper torque values! If lubing lug studs was a good idea, all new cars/trucks would come this way. They don't.
There's no "one size fits all" in this discussion. Lots of variations and situations. In general, anti-seize is for mating surfaces. Of course, male and female threads are also mating surfaces. But, where a proper torque value is concerned, it is usually accomplished with "clean, dry threads". If torque value or tightness isn't an issue or requirement, feel free to anti-seize. I was mainly talking about wheel studs and lug nuts. No lube, no anti-seize. Clean, dry threads. Unless, of course, you want your lug nuts to come loose while you're driving down the highway.
+ChrisFix I've tried the Zep 40 Spray glass cleaner and really like it. Seems like a luxury in a way but it works so much better than Windex or the like.
@@robertleftwich1122 ...and sometimes you try, split them down the side, and have to go to Sears and _hope_ that you can scavenge up a free replacement before all the meat is picked off the bones of the place. Don't ask.
Great video. My tip is to loosen or remove master cylinder brake fluid cap. After brake job, pump the break pedal to get piston and new pads snug against rotor. Opening bleeder etc could definitely result in air getting into your brake lines...not good..
here is my tip, if you have dual caliper brakes and your brake compression tool only does one caliper, place one of the old pads back into the rotor and then continue to use the tool as normal.
Chris, You are what is good about the internet and You Tube. I have been working on my own cars for 50 years and your videos and tips are done so well and if anyone out there needs helped and have tried to find an honest mechanic who charges fair prices and (they are getting harder to find) then don’t be afraid to try it yourself. Chris makes it easy to follow do what he says step by step and don’t be lazy and skip any steps because they really can help parts last.
Thanks a lot Buck!
Only 1 comment?
my top tip is to watch chris fix before undertaking a diy job.
+abdi risaq mohamed haha that is a good one!
I agree and i always look up a job here as Chris Fix is guaranteed to show a top job.
Lol true just finished a job and that bleeding tip would have been good to know lol
Just watch out for the April fools ones hahahaa
😂 but who does ChrisFix watch?
I have been changing brakes for years.... "Tip 1, turn the steering wheel" Whelp, I guess I can learn a few new things.
@ALXXX struggling 🤣
@@Power_Glove yes you can.....??
@@Power_Glove I did... It was dangerous I guess?
Hahaha I was thinking the same thing...frickin lightbulb 💡 just went on. “Oh... yeah”
@@Power_Glove Turn the steering wheel, jack, replace breaks, set down, turn the steering wheel, jack, replace breaks, set down. Just plan ahead. And if you don't plan, to plan ahead, if you are like me you will not do it!
Chris, I just finished doing my brakes and here's one you forgot to mention.
"Wear those Latex gloves unless you want to be spending an equal amount of time washing your hand afterwards."
You can put like five layers of them on so you just peel the outside glove off each time they get used up. No fumbling trying to put new ones on with sweaty hands. Thanks again!
I have become far more handy with my car and house over past decade due to RUclips. And honestly your extra tip is as important as nearly any on car work. even if you use 4 pairs of latex gloves doing a brake job (due to taking a break, having to help your kid with something, hands get too sweaty, etc) it is a major time saver. Yes some latex waste, but washing hands in hot water for 5 minutes is not exactly waste free.
ya can get gloves cheap at harbr freight
I buy the black nitrate gloves. 100xbetter and they fit.
@@zardozqq black nitrate gloves only. The blues are to small and break super quick
Great video man, keep it up. GOJO is a miracle worker. That Citrus and Pumice water-less hand cleaner takes that grease off in no time. Killer stuff.
One of the best automotive tip / repair channels on youtube....clear, concise and with attention to detail.
Well done Chris.
It's really important to mention about pressing the brake pedal right before the brake job is finished. Working at the dealer we had one technician get crushed by a vehicle as another technician tried to deliver the car to the owner. The guy got crushed as he was between the tool box and the car. He got paralyzed because of someone forgeting to press the brake pedal. Safety is always first.
Damn wtf.
What does pressing the brake pedal do? Or do you mean just holding it down while the car is lowered? Expand please!
@@lyianxso you know how you compress the break cylinder to install the break pads. We’ll press the breaker to add that tension again and be able to stop. If that thing doesn’t have pressure you’ll step the break all the way in and won’t be able to stop on time
seems the technician should learn drive from reverse also.
Horrible story. Hope the guy is living the best life he can
I really like your no-nonsense car fix videos. It's especially helpful when you shove the camera in those hard to see places to show everyone. Keep it up!
+Dennis Chua Thanks a lot! I am glad you are enjoying the videos and like how they are produced!
+ChrisFix We're all impressed and thankful for what you do for us all.Please keep up the impressive work.
ChrisFix helps new car guys out or just people wanting to learn. I appreciate your videos they help out alot. Very informative and with video to show most too.
Been changing brakes for myself, friends, and family for around 20 years and I only do about half of these tips. I'm definitely going to incorporate some more of them into my next project! As you said, these things are often overlooked. If you don't do them, you're not necessarily doing the job "wrong", but why skip such easy steps which will help avoid future problems when you already have the system apart? Awesome video!
Got someone to do my front brakes a week ago, watched them do it and thought "damn i could have saved myself 40 bucks"
Going to get educated and do the rear myself, maybe ill be on your level one day doing brakes for others
Maybe practice on other peoples cars first and if they survive, then you can do your own?
I always start out with great intentions to do the bleeder valve tip, but have now 100% of the time skipped it. too lazy for that extra step.
I never thought to clean the hub like I spray it down with brake cleaner but I never thought to use a wire brush on it
Eric Prado It’s actually not too hard if you got the right tools that’s important it makes the job 10x more easy with the right tools. Hardest part is getting the car jacked up safely but even that’s easy once you do it a few times
Great tips, quick update to accommodate newer vehicles....for those who may not know, don't try to compress the rear brake caliper pistons if the vehicle has EPB (Electronic Parking Brake). There are some work arounds but you should use a diagnostic to put the EPB in service mode or risk costly damage
depends on the car the subaru i have uses electric parking brake on drum brake and the disk part on rear for driving you just have to release parking brake to get rotor drum combo off
Was gonna add this but its about 2 years too late haha. My mom had a 2020 Corolla, and you basically had to put in the Konami code to release the EPB.
It's not hard to do but confusing, especially since I mostly work on 2000s domestic vehicles, and my truck is a 04, so I can just hit it, and it fixes itself. That damn Corolla was confusing af, being a Japanese manufacturer, and pretty new.
Tip 11: press the brakes a few times before driving off your driveway.
Pieter LOL
Pieter ,You are the perfect man, that is much important.
Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap before compressing the piston back to prevent damage to the abs pump.
@@rowentan well if you crack open the bleeder valve that fluid isn't going back to the reservoir
@@g19634 I've seen service technician at Mazda dealership compressed the piston without releasing the bleeder valve nor removing the reservoir cap. That's definitely going to screw up the abs pump module. Removing the reservoir cap technique is useful when you don't have another person assisting you on your brake job.
Thanks Chris! I've been teaching Auto Technology for 20+ years and this is the best brake video I've seen. These are the things that separate a professional brake job from a shade tree. I emphasize every one of your tips and now my students know I'm not the only one stressing these things. Good production as well.
I Subscribed to your channel. Keep up the good work!
Bill Kitt
Automotive Technology Professor
ASE Master Tech, L1,
Exactly. One reason I started doing my own brakes when I was younger. Shops weren't cleaning parts and greasing pins. Just little simple things that make your brakes function at top efficiency.
Its good not the best. No lubrication added to main boot at the caliper. No discussion of loctite should be added at saddle bolts and caliper bolts. Should wire wheel the bolts as well too bring back too nice clean threads. Anti seize should be applied at all mating surfaces. Caliper too saddle ect. Also behind the rotor that mates too the hub so both surfaces are sealed and one doesn't rust before the other. Also cookie cleaning everything with a compressor beats a wire brush most times unless you can't get into the spots.
@@f3arful top 10 dude.. top 10 :P
Chris, I agree with every aspect of this video with two exceptions.
Factory trained VW/Porsche/ Audi tech, aerospace/racing fabricator and crew chief of several regional SCCA class winners.
1) Something I see time and time again on RUclips brake repl. videos it seems virtually everyone insists of replacing the rotors at every brake pad change?? WHY??? If not excessively worn beyond the factory thickness specs, (often found stamped on OEM rotors) nor is warpage/runout beyond spec, (checked with a dial indicator,) why is everyone suggesting rotor replacement during routine pad replacement???
What ever happened to turning the rotors on a brake lathe?? If final cut is within thickness specs and no runout, reinstall. What are shops now to do with that expensive AMMCO brake lathe?? This has worked well for decades, why not now??
Most all of the aftermarket rotors are made overseas of inferior materials. Example...On a track record setting SCCA A Sedan class car using Corvette rotors/calipers, the hard abrasive pads used on track eat away at the rotors. Checking/finding now undersized one race weekend, purchased a set of supposed 'Corvette' rotors from local car parts store. Cleaned/scuffed with abrasive. After just one practice session after properly bedding in new pads, the rotors had extreme heat stress cracking throughout and 0.025+ runout both sides. Very, very dangerous!!! Removed, reinstalled the OEM rotors to finish the weekend.
PS: Driver complained of brake pedal pulsation, clear indicator of warped rotors.
2) Something forgotten by so many including this video is procedure to properly bed in a new set of pads, especially important if also installing new rotors. If NOT done, pads will heat glaze, reducing the stopping ability and a major cause of brake squeal. Brakes will last longer, work better and reduce noise.
Perhaps best as a stand alone video linked to this one??
Based on my personal experience and failures: Always use a torque wrench to go over all the bolts before re-installing the tire. My worse experience was forgetting to tighten one of the bolts on the caliper mounts. Good thing the one bolt that I DID tighten held off for a good half a mile to where I could stop to investigate what happened. I will never make the same mistake again. It could have resulted in a bad accident but thank God it didn't. Also as described by this video, using the proper lubrication for the guide pins is a must. I've had bad experiences where a 'professional' mechanic failed to use the proper full synthetic silicon lubricant. It caused the rubber boot to swell up and seize up the guide pin. I had a hell of a time trying to get it out. Great video, Chris!
Thanks And thanks for sharing your tips. Funny enough, lay weeks video was all about how to use and take care of your torque wrench.
+Geir Slotsvik 10 years aircraft avionics and A&P fighter jets, heavies, and currently on helos. Even professionals get too relax sometimes and slip one through the crack. I'm an amateur when it comes to cars but I apply the same principles when I do my own car repairs and preventative maintenance. I ain't perfect, but I learn from my mistakes and those of others. I still rely on manuals for specifics like torque values and measurements. Never stop learning is the best advice I've gotten from my superiors. 20 years experience is great although i wouldn't rely fully on torque by feel in my area of work. Kudos!
Great video, Chris. Not a wasted moment or misspoken word. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video!
yeah chris is a straight shooter ...luv this guy
Hopelessand Forlorn what I was thinking
Hopelessand Forlorn awesome
Ulpdn lot
H
Yes! Greasing the guide pins is one step that most of the brake job videos on RUclips tend to leave out…. One thing you did leave out that most others do also is that before you press the piston back into the caliper, you should remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and wrap a towel around the reservoir to catch any brake fluid that may seep out as you are pressing the piston back into the caliper…
He didn't do it because he was unscrewing the valve bleeder.
As always Chris, this is an excellent video, (just like all the others you’ve made that I’ve
watched). The video is an education in itself. One tip that may be useful; it’s
always difficult to keep the pad material clean when handling brake grease, so I
cover the friction surfaces with masking tape until I’m ready to fit the pads
to the caliper. This helps to keep the pads grease and dirt free.
Great brake tips! One thing I do every time I inspect or change the brakes is condition the rubber parts. I use silicone spray on hoses, guide pin boots etc to keep them from cracking and failing.
Chris, thank you for some excellent tips. You made my day. Starting with tip #1, that one really rocks. I've watched brakes being replaced as well as doing them myself throughout the years. I've never seen anyone turn the wheel for easier access. It's been years since I've done brakes but, today I'll feel like I can tackle them with confidence and ease using all of your tips. That also goes for the tips in the comments your subscribers shared. Thank you all for making my day an easier one. You and your subscribers rock,
Tip: be sure you have the tools you need so you don't have to stop in the middle.
my brain: yes absolutely
also my brain: we don't need that tool, forget about it
Especially if it is your only car. :)
Sometimes you don't know what tools you'll need until you hit that oh shit point in a job and realize you didn't have what you thought you did. Those tools vary by car and model, so you'll hit that point eventually if you don't have a full garage.
Oof. You got me with this one. Touche my dude.
@@Enonymouse_ lmao that oh shit part is the worst
Chris you make me feel like I can fix anythingcar related!! Thank you so much for all your videos.😁
Most important tip: Pump your brakes before you go anywhere ( after brake job is done )
Thanks for the tip!
Should I pump brakes after each brake change? Or once after they are all changed?
After all are changed
then recheck fluid level
@@randynewtoff9350 the blinker fluid?
I really liked tip #8. What I usually do when compressing the piston, is just crack the cap on the reservoir so the fluid can go back up without building pressure in there. And for those of you that don't have a brake caliper compressor, just use a C-clamp on the caliper while it is still bolted on.
this can be a problem for vehicles with antilock brakes, pushing the fluid back up the brake lines can damage the antilock module, which is a very expensive component to replace. but, if it's an older vehicle that doesn't have antilock brakes this is what i do and after the calipers are fully retracted, i suck all of the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder and replace it with new fluid before pumping up and bleeding the new brakes.
@@marzsit9833 very unnecessary to change your brake fluid that often
This is a great tip that I never thougt of doing
C clamp is always my go to, just place a socket in the piston hole and press against that so your not clamping the actual surface of the piston to avoid any damage from the clamp :)
I have NEVER cleaned behind the cylinder boot. Great tip. Thanks.
That's why there's good mechanics and there's you.
Javier Fernandez yea right, no one is doing that on a brake job. Your an idiot. There’s cool people in this word then there’s you.
@@pnv8477 yeah people do hate to tell you that
Must have watched a dozen brake rotor videos, and yet I still learned something new here, thanks
That’s the goal with my videos! Glad you learned something new!
Another tip I’ve learned through working in the field is to always unscrew the cap of the brake fluid reservoir. It’ll make pushing the piston back a whole lot easier
Marco Gullone Cause it not pressured with the cap off
He released the bleeder valve so he didn’t need to do that but if you’re afraid of getting air in your brake system that’s a great idea the cap on the reservoir
I did this. I used slip joint pliers to get the piston down. No problem. I would much rather the brake fluid reservoir overflow a bit than have to bleed the air. Put some rags around to catch the extra. When you finish you can put the reservoir cap back on, pump the brakes, and if you're lucky the level will come back to near the max level. If over that upper limit you'll have to bring out the turkey baster or similar to siphon a bit off.
This was one tip I was going to add.
Best Brake job video I've ever seen, PERIOD !!!
+kicksoffs Thanks a lot!
No prob brother.
#11 loosen the Master cylinder cap. This released pressure on the entire system, and serves as a back up if you use the caliper bleeder. Or if you don't want or can't loosen the bleeders, this reduced pressure allows the piston to go in easier and avoid straining or damaging the anti lock system.
My top tips. Don't handle the pads with dirty hands. Don't touch the friction material face at all if you can help it. Put grease on anything that rubs together, silicone if its protected with a rubber boot, lug nut torque is important and too much will warp your new rotors, and do not forget to break you pads in.
these are awesome and should be kept at top of comment rack.
All awesome tips. The biggest debated thing seems to be whether or not to properly bed in brakes
what do you do to break in the new pads?
@@lifeisgood070 well... You brake..
@@nojustumasbacauskas7175 ur tip stay on top of it there is a coat hanger calliper bungi and a spray the metal clips to not over exceed brake pad fitments and unlike cleaner any parts can be done as a dirt check or spray but the bleeding bit fluid contaminated come out on the wheel is thought ans this were after locating where the greese got into from another rubber isolator and lucky the wheel stays on as well as the tyre
Got some tips for everyone. These tips ensure there will be no noise on the test drive. I used to work at Brake Masters and learned from a good mechanic who never had a car come back.
1. Once you take off the wheel and have access to the brakes, remove the bracket (s) closest to the line right away without thinking. It frees up space for you without turning the wheel and it becomes routine once you see how easy it makes it.
2. Go ahead and remove the bracket without removing the caliper from the bracket. This is just two bolts. Wiggle the assembly to free it and carefully remove. Remove the brake pads one by one and just slide the caliper off of the bracket. It helps to use your hands symmetrically and hold the assembly like a burger.
3. Remove the rotor. Don't use a hammer unless you are going to use a new rotor and check that the rotors match before you whack it. Nothing sucks more than realizing you have the wrong part and have to go back to the parts store.Take a quick note in your pocket notebook of the orientation of the hardware on the bracket if there is any. Put on some gloves and glasses. Can't stress the importance of using safety glasses during this part. Dilute some degreaser into a spray bottle and spray to your heart's content around the dust shield, the hub, behind the hub (very important), the caliper all over and in the piston hole, and the brackets all over. Use a long wire brush, a skinny long wire brush and preferably a cup brush that goes on the end of a Chuck drill and clean all of the brake dust off the pieces. Keep the drill in the wheel well so you don't dirty the car when it flings. During this part you will be using your wire brushes when all the parts are wet with degreaser. This is so much better than what I used to do because you will not be suffering from asbestos since it is too wet to float in the air. Brush every nook and cranny including where the hardware fits in. The only parts you shouldn't scrub are inside the piston, any rubber parts and the slide pins. After scrubbing spray degreaser until the stream runs mostly clean as it drips off the dirty parts. Be careful of the rubber boots on the slide pins or on the caliper and spray brake clean from the top to the bottom and you will see it run clean within a couple sprays from top to bottom. Use brake clean strategically, spray generally from top to bottom however the parts are oriented. Go with gravity and keep that money in your pocket. Spray until degreaser and brake dust are gone. If you run out of brake cleaner you can use water in a pinch but I do not recommend it as common practice.
4. Compress caliper. NOTE!! Do not EVER press a caliper piston back in while other calipers are removed. Doing so will pop another piston out and then you're in trouble. Just do the brakes one wheel at a time. I know this part sounds unnecessary but it prevents noise initially: take a normal flat metal file and file the new brake pads at the corners at a 45° angle where the sides meet the braking surface. This takes care of the sharp 90° angle shape that the brakes arrive in. This prevents the paint on the sides of the pads from building up right away.
5. Make sure every part is completely dry the brake clean should've helped with that very quickly. Use caliper grease and apply to slide pins, and the "ears" of the brake pads. Wet the tips of your thumb and index finger with caliper grease and just rub it all over every piece of hardware. You basically want a coat so thin on the hardware you can't see it but you can feel it. Install the gently greased hardware onto the bracket.
6. Make sure the face of the hub that contacts the rotor is completely cleaned and apply copper, nickel or aluminum anti seize sparingly to the flat face of the hub and don't get any on the lug studs/threads. This can kill someone of their lugs come loose on a highway. You don't have to get anti seize that close to the lugs for it to work anyways. Now spray your new rotor from top to bottom if it has grease on it with brake cleaner. Make sure it is dry and install the rotor and secure it.
7. Slide the caliper and bracket back together, secure the rubber boots to their spots and squish the air out of the boots. Make sure the pins are as deep as they go and install the brake pads one by one. It can be a trick at first but if you get it once you got it forever. I repeat make sure that the slide pins are fully in as deep as they go into the caliper before you install the pads. The pads might not fit if you don't make sure the slide pins are in all the way for the entire time you are installing both pads. Use the law of symmetry while installing each pad. They should slide in with minimal resistance. If they are not sliding in make sure that your hardware is nice and firm against the bracket and proceed to continue installing the brake pads. Do not force anything ever when installing anything having to do with brakes. If it is not I stalling easily something is in the way. Just stop and look to see what is in the path's space occupation of motion. Don't get any grease or oils on the actual brake pad material. It will deep into the pad the moment it touches so if you do accidentally get grease on the pad spray the spot immediately with a few spurts of brake cleaner and you will be fine. Now make sure your gloves thumbs are dry and hold the entire assembly like a burger which includes the bracket and caliper and brake pads and put your thumbs in between the brake pads to keep them from moving. Pick up this assembly as described and carefully install once you have the rotor in between the brakes your golden take your time and screw in theTOP BRACKET BOLT FIRST. This prevents your brake assembly from tilting back by accident and having to start over installing your pads. Button everything up and if you are reusing the same bracket bolts go above the factory torque spec at your discretion. Factory torque specs are meant to be used on new bolts and nuts since the shape of the nuts and bolts' threads are factory fresh. Their shape changes once they have been used so go tighter than factory specs especially on the bracket bolts. Mount the brake line bracket. Make sure you use your strength and push and pull the caliper with your hand to make sure everything moves smoothly and that there are no noises. If you followed these directions there will be no noise. Go to the brake pedal and press on the brake pedal several times at first it'll be squishy but it will end up firm as usual. Do not start the car until you have a firm brake pedal. If there is any kind of squeaking while breaking you missed something, maybe wipe some WD-40 on the brake pedal pivot point but if there is any noise coming from any of the actual brake assemblies you missed something. Probably lube.Hope this helps
You're an EXCELLENT TEACHER CHRIS! Clear, well filmed and professional. Kudos John 3:16
I always appreciate your videos Chris!
One thing I encountered on my very first break job was threaded holes in the face of the rotor near the lug holes - insert a couple bolts and tighten them a half turn or so alternating between the two and it pops that rust weld in a flash without a hammer getting involved!
Thanks for sharing! Thanks a lot!
ChrisFix
Idea: what about a video on air tools. I always appreciate your approach of using common handtools. But if a guy wanted to invest in some air tools, what would you recommend?
Maybe some info on like air pressure, common socket sizes to get etc. Thanks!
Great tips Chris! Thought I'd mention one more important reason to crack the nipple and let out brake fluid when pushing the piston back - when you push fluid up and back to the master cylinder you can damage seals and control valves $$ especially on older vehicles as the seals start deteriorating with age.
I've done a fair few brake jobs but some of these tips are definatley overlooked yet helpful. Great video 👍
I used to hang my calipers from a bungee cord, now I turn a 5-gal. bucket upside down and rest them on the bucket. Easier and quicker.
Wish I saw this last week lol
U cant clean all sides
Ron Suttle I have a few pieces of hanger wire to hang the caliper. I keep them in my brake tool box
I just place them up on the strut spring they stay fine there
thanks for the tip.
I like trying to work on my car when I am able to do the job myself, these are fabulous tips. Thank you!
Great tips Mr. ChrisFix! You are clear and concise with your audio & video and right to the point for us "DIY's". So there I am with my arsenal of tools at hand with you streaming on my laptop again last weekend replacing my daughters drum brakes.......although I had to pause your video dozens of times I still knocked the job out (and still had time to watch some football)! You have saved me a TON of money while making me look like I actually know what I am doing! Many thanks from balmy Las Vegas, Nevada. Regards, D. Scott
My only tip to add to this is to use an impact socket when using an impact wrench. I've seen a number of people break chrome sockets on an impact. That can be pretty dangerous. Not only can things go flying, the broken socket can be very sharp.
RickMakes I broke a phillips head bit with an impact socket wrench when I was trying so hard to get a seized screw off my rotor on my old Civic. It wouldn't come loose and I kept on trying then the bit snapped.
RickMakes why do you change the router too?
Paul P Jr probably because you were using a phillips screwdriver on a Japanese industry standard screw
Ribeye Robert D no just makes you dumb for doing something that doesn’t work obviously
My car is 20 years old now. The rear caliper bolts are dead stickly, i can't release them at all . I need an impact power wrench.
Tip11: Never pump out the caliper piston too far whilst cleaning the rubber boot otherwise it'll cause brake fluid to leak or the piston to drop off completely causing you to spend hours trying to get the piston and rubber boot back into the caliper as well as re-bleeding the brake system to get the air lock out of the master clinder...and don't ask me how I know all that😳😳
Dude facts and bleeding takes longer then expected lollol
is ceramic brake grease ok for the guide pins? or strictly silicon
@@Itsyunlo
I use bendix brake grease sold in those small packets you get from your auto stores...they cost about $2.50...one packets does two calipers.
Ceramasil Brake Parts Lubricant
@@williamb8479 I used permatex silicon ceramic grease for the hardware and back of pads a bit. then permatex silicon-only for caliper guide pins and what not
Good tips bro! However, please also consider adding more tips to deal with heavy rust build up in practically all stationary metal-to-metal contact points. For example, all around the brake pads, underneath the thin metal shims/clips, between the caliper and its mounting bracket, etc. Newbies find it hard to remove various components simply because they just don't know what's normal and what's not in terms of movement between various parts. Rust causes so much binding in relatively short period that it often requires repeated but gentle hammering to remove the caliper assembly and its mounting bracket from the rotors. Newbies don't always know that it's OK to hammer them out gently. Also, the wire brush is not always sufficient to remove the rust. Hard scraping using a flat-head screwdriver or a dremmel rotory brush/grinder, sandpaper or even a file may be necessary depending on where people live. Rust might not be a big problem in dry/desert states, but it's a huge issue in states with even modest annual rain or snow fall.
if you live in the rust belt or anywhere where they salt the roads in winter you will never have a solution to rust. common aluminum-based anti-seize compound actually makes the rust worse due to galvanic corrosion, the only anti-seize that works in this situation is nickel-based, which is hard to find and more expensive but worth the cost.
Thanks Chris. I've changed brakes before and have been told that I'm paranoid for constantly spraying down brake parts during installation. Good to know my instincts were right!
No prob! Glad you got some reassurance!
Remember, just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to getcha.
I need to change my rotors. I've done it several times. This is a great video. Thanks for the tips!
This is the best video I have seen. I put the silicone grease on the piston and the piston boot too . I also put it on the slide area of the caliper and the caliper bracket . I have been doing this for 20 plus years now . I do like the tip on the brake fluid . Two thumbs up !!!
spent an hour beating the shit out the rotor from different angles when changing my rear brakes, without anything happening. took the handbreak off and 30 seconds later it came off easy..
james smalling lol this just happened to me
james smalling I had the same problem, my rotors wouldn't come off after a beating. luckily I saw on RUclips, that there are two m8 screw holes which when you put in two screws, it breaks the rotor off
According to another RUclipsr named ElectroBOOM:
You learn by experience if you experience what you learn more often.
alex seppala you can see the screws. It should be pretty obvious
love u bro
Hey Chris, your videos are awesome! I love how you get to the point, it's well structured and also I like how you say "consider subscribing" instead of "make sure to subscribe"
Have a long breaker bar and impact wrench handy especially in the rust belt states. Did my brakes today for the first time and everything went well except for some stubborn caliper bracket bolts. Your videos really help.
Truly a great video. Solid tips and efficient delivery. I think the bleed part is likely out of many's desire to do but still good to add that as a tip.
Great tips, I'd add get rubber covers for the bleed screw and change them every time you do your discs/rotors as the rubber can wear away. Covers protect the brake bleed screws from seizing and corroding.
Hey Chris, I've got another tip for your brake collection. I just finished a brake overhaul on a 1980s Chevy of mine, and on test drives, everything was fine except for a slight scraping sound every once in a while from the right front that would disappear as soon as I moved the steering wheel at all. It was the metal splash guard. It was slightly bent, so it would just barely scrape the rotor under the right conditions. I was able to bend it so it didn't scrape, but it would have been easier to do before I installed the calipers.
So I would suggest doing a dry-fit of the rotors and flexing your splash guards if you have them to make sure you've got even clearance all around the rotor before installing the calipers. If it looks like they might scrape, bend the splash guard to get proper clearance.
Great tip! Thanks for sharing!
also remember to pump the brake pedal a couple of times to bring the pedal up before driving
+Mark Quigley Great tip!
When I was about 16 yrs old I almost took off my car door backing out of the garage after changing my brakes for the first time. LOL Much easier and cheaper to learn from someone else's mistakes!
First time I did front discs, pumped the brakes - all good. Realized I was late to pick my gf up from work, slammed it in reverse, slammed it in to a wall!
Learning - its what we do.
Same ive done breaks many times before i was in a rush to pick up my gf back up thankfully no one was behind and manage to pull the e brakes
+Will Walsh wait so the problem wasn't that you didn't pump the brakes? you meant to put it in Drive I'm assuming? haha
Well done and very informative. Thank you for not putting any music in the background.
All things I've heard to do and always forget. We'll save this video for next time. You explained it perfect.
Thanks for all the awesome videos, Chris. You've helped me gain the confidence, and in turn, the experience, needed to do my own auto repairs.
Thanks to you Chris I changed my rotors and pads for the first time, next it's the rear drum brakes complete as per your video .
Thats awesome! I'm sure everything went well!
Hey! It went very well, 2 1/2 hours first side going really sloooooooooowly I hour second side! I love fixing stuff but I usually go to garage, fronts done for £63.00 discs and pads, last time I paid £250. I'm told I can fix anything but I had no confidence on fixing the van or car so I can't thank you enough. No wonder you have so many subscribers! 6,000,000!
That video where you got your mum her dream car, it blew me away! You must be up there with the nicest person on RUclips rating if there is such a thing, along with Mark Rober if I may say, although why he's hanging about with some college kid drop out Bill gates I think his name is I don't know.
Another fine example of how the Internet is a force for good.
Best wishes from Broxburn Central Scotland. David
I’ve spent over a half hour reading the comments. It is so refreshing to not read a ton of swearing 🤬. Your subscribers (including myself) are an educated lot. I’m an old man, but I certainly enjoy your videos 🤗!
Hey Chris, I have always done your 10 tips independently. We must both be geniuses. Tip #11: The bleeder nipple can be frozen in the caliper. If so, remove the caliper and empty the fluid. Heat the area of the caliper where the nipple threads into it. The nipple will usually break free. Use a new nipple. Weather the nipple was frozen or not, put some anti seize on the threads and they will never freeze.
I've always been a little intimated of doing my own brakes. But after watching this vid, I'm gonna give it a go!
How did it go?
@@s0la.scr1ptura he died in accident, cuz his brakes did not work
Read tip 11
Am glad to come across this one a day prior to me tackling the brakes on my car. Did this on my motorcycle multiple times but, it is a first go on the car. Thanks for all your efforts. Greatly appreciated.
Chris, as usual, brilliant. what about a video on how to add aftermarket DRL's or parking sensors???
+juman islam Thanks and awesome suggestion! I will add it to the list!
Brilliant! Looking forward
get som ole skool gansta curb finders. haha.
+ChrisFix Chris you are the best 👍
Nice. Great video. Seems so simple... First time I did this, years ago, I didn't turn the wheel..... Helps a lot!!!
+Patrick Morrissey Thanks bud! Yea, simple things like turning the wheel make the job that much easier!
All I learned from past brake jobs on my motorcycle n cars are summed up here. Thank you for these tips, indispensable!!!
When you’ve watch this video a few days after you just changed brakes and rotors. 😂 great share.
Mike Swizzy yes same here lol
Exactly
@@millhouse313 lol
Exactly the same here lol
Same 😂 and I’m a mechanic.
Awesome tips...took me 20 years to learn what you cover in a few minutes!
Just subscribed after several hours of binge watching lol Will certainly consider joining as well. Appreciate you're straight forward approach knowing your subscribers have the basic idea. I started wrenching 40 years ago, starting with bicycle's, lawn mowers, Mopeds. Cars trucks houses. Didn't have instruction other than who you knew and printed shop manuals, often covering many years with different options. Helps to see a slightly different approach that is well demonstrated. Owned many Rangers. 2.3 Lima, 2.3 duratec to over 300k. Rusted frames the death nell. My son and I are close and he was raised on Fox bodies, F series and Rangers. He's Navy, stationed in JAX with a nice 2010 Ranger 4x4, 4.0 5spd, badass 05 GT 4.6 and just picked up a 95 del sol Honda as a daily gas sipper. Still have my 89 LX 5.0 vert I bought in '94. Father son '90 hatch 2.3 turbo swap that runs part time. The daily is a 2010 2.3 auto RWD Ranger. Solid at 168K. Old City of Columbus (Ohio) fleet truck I will be installing front hub/rotor, wheel bearings, rear discs/pads with a rust storm in hopes of salvaging calipers/brackets. Too much information, but wanted say that I don't subscribe to very many you tube feeds. Keep on brother !!!
Great tips, I have been doing my brakes for 50 years and learned a few good tips here. Thanks 👍🏻.
Also when you finish any brake job pump the pedal and make sure it gets firm. This is so you don't get any surprises when your driving away for the first time!
+Zed Man haha, good tip!
Your videos are the best. I don’t think a professional mechanic is as detailed as you are
thank a lot brother, I've learnt a lot from your chanel alone. keep up the great work
we can't thank you enough for your videos so like always a BIG LIKE FOR THIS ONE
+Jose Rubiera Awesome! Glad the video was helpful!
Hi Chris, i did change rear brake pads for my Nissan Qashqai after i watched your video many times. now i am very confident to do it myself. My next project is to change brake rotter. Many thanks for details guides. from UK
Every one of the 10 tips was excellent.
I always clean and grease the caliper or bracket that holds the pads where the edges of the pad slide toward the rotor when braking
after watching this video a dozen times in preparation for my first diy brake change next week, i FINALLY understood tip number eight. i don’t know why i was so afraid of it!! now i get it, consider it done!!
Another tip: Change both sides of the axle at the same time but, not necessarily both axles.
EXAMPLE: You suspect front left is low due to noise. You measure and discover that the front left pad and or rotor are less than the discard specifications. Replace both the left front and right front pads and rotors.
PS: Great tip on cylinder and cylinder boot. Never thought of that in the past.
John's top tip #11: You have a brake pad wear indicator under your hood that is easily viewed.
After installing new pads all around, bleed enough fluid so new fluid is in all calipers (a brake fluid change). Top up the brake reservoir. Then NEVER add brake fluid to the reservoir while these pads are on the car. The fluid level decrease will be an easy indicator of brake pad wear. Put tape on the cap so the oil change place doesn't mess with it.
The reservoir will hold significantly more fluid than the pistons can displace even if the pads are 100% worn down to where steel from the pad is touching all four rotors. A brake system that doesn't have a leak will never run out of fluid, I promise.
Your low brake fluid level light will indicate the pads are worn or a leak in the brake system. Either way your gonna fix it.
Topping up your fluid will subsequently force you to take off the tires to inspect the pads. Fluid level is in direct proportion to pad wear.
John Stefanick i did not know this. thank you.
John Stefanick that is super awesome tip, I will do it now that I changing the pads
This is absurd, there is a reason your reservoir is the size it is. What happens when a line bursts? Congratulations, you just screwed yourself out of a safe stop.
I never add fluid between jobs.
How to replace rear brake shoe pad on a 2012 ford e 150
Very well explained, this video was the reason I want to learn on fixing my own car rather than paying someone to do it which cost a lot of money. It seems simple if you have the right tools for the job and knowledge. Well done mate
Thanks a lot!
A second tip: Here in road salt country, wheels and rotors often get fused to the hub. Loosen the lug nuts one turn before lifting the car, drive some S turns in the driveway, then lift the car and the wheels will be loose!
that is the scariest shit i have ever heard!!!!
Or you can get a brake puller a good heavy duty one. Bang the drum or rotor couple times loosens some rust spray the hub around the studs with WD40 let it set for a bit. Put your puller in place and crank it with a wrench make sure you put the lug nuts back on not tight but just snug and it’ll pop off with no issues.
Coty Pemberton whats so scarey about that? Loosen only ONE turn and do some S turns in the Driveway lol. I’m pretty sure you will be just fine😂
Opening the bleeder valve while compressing the pistons is an awesome idea! Saves having to bleed them all the time (especially when you track a car a lot).
BTW, use a wire wheel on a drill to get all the rust off the hub. It's faster and far better than a manual brush. Just an FYI.
True i also think chris uses more simple hand tools so that his watchers don't feel intimidated needing to spend 100s of dollars on power tools. Although you can totally use them like you suggested
Doing my brakes today, just wanted a refresh, good tip I find been doing for years and why I don’t like having a shop do it, is far to often I see pros not using gloves just bare hands handling the new pads esspecially and have seen some won’t name on youtube exposed manhandle the new rotors, hands also have natural oils in them no matter how clean they are, so they actually contaminate the new pads and rotors, using gloves like you have on says allot, props for that and great tips picked up a couple re the silicone grease nice, cheers.
Except the way he sprayed brakleen at the end without wiping the rotors according the pads the definitely would contaminate the pads.
Hey Chris thanks for another great vid I am learning a lot off of you and you got my sub for sure.
Cheeky request, could you do a video on how to troubleshoot all the different brake noises you can get and what they could mean or how to stop or prevent them etc? I am going to go and check my brakes now because I heard some squealing yesterday and I thought it was just dust or a stone caught in the rotor but it might be the bear wear indicator. I am confused though because the noise lasted for maybe 15 mins and it depended on steering and changed with how much brake used but was almost always there and then stopped. Any suggestion welcome btw
One of my top fifteen is to slightly loosen the lug nuts just a turn or two, called "breaking", while the wheels are still on the ground. This way, when the car is up on the jack stands, getting the lug nuts off is a heck of lot easier. Another tip is too tape off, prime and paint the bare hub of the rotor, the part of course that doesn't come in contact with the pads. I also get off any rust and prime and paint the hub but that's just me. I hate rust.
+Jesse Parris Thanks for your tips!
You have the best auto repair videos. I use your videos all the time for my DIY auto projects. Keep it up
I never cracked the bleeder valve when pushing back the pistons, is that bad ? I never had a problem doing the way I always do it
I had no idea about the dust behind the boot! Thanks Chris!
+DE Nichols Glad you learned something new!
I got my Forester to the shop for the brake job (front pads and discs) and they didn't wash off manufacturer oil and now I'm squeaking every.single.time. Now I'm taking every easier jobs my self. Hate paying incompetent people for the job. ChrisFix for the win! :D
Darn! Now you know at least the job is getting done right!
@@chrisfix Darn! You're answering on instagram pm and youtube comments on 4y old video! I've been watching you for 5 years now. You are truly amazing! I wish you all the best and thank you for all the work and time you're putting into the videos :)
A big one (that I learnt today!) was when compressing the caliper piston, be careful of your brake fluid levels.
As I compressed the front right piston (after having already completed the left wheel), brake fluid started leaking from the reservoir in the engine bay. This then dripped down the engine bay and onto the concrete below, I though I'd botched the whole job and blown a seal in the break line.
It turns out, as your pads wear down, the break fluid levels drop over time. When you get your car serviced, the mechanic tops this up. Now you come along and compress that piston all the way flush with the caliper, and that extra brake fluid has to go somewhere!! A friend recommended siphoning Just a small amount from the reservoir prior to compressing the piston. Brake fluid is cleaned with warm, soapy water by the way HAHAHA!
yep, nobody takes some out
bleeder valve tip was awesome to learn. thanks, and keep up the good work!
Glad you learned something new!
An added advantage to releasing pressure at the bleeder screw is to avoid back-pressure on the brake proportioner. Supposedly that can potentially damage valves in that unit and cause it to malfunction.
There's something soothing about Chris' calmer voice in his earlier videos. The new videos are great, make no mistake. But there's a feeling of 'old-friend-just-helping-you-fix-your-car' type of vibe with Chris' old vid.
These videos are awesome. Swear by them!
+Alex Kersten Thanks Alex! Glad you like the videos! Im loving the articles you do on the MX5... So much so that I am looking to get one now!
Super wonderful help when I was here with my talents so thank you for the help
Best regards from Denmark / Funen
Chris - you inspired me to start doing some of my own maintenance on my vehicles.
Remember to include to tighten the wheel to the manufactured specs. Using a impact wrench (over-torquing)can cause uneven pad wear. The cheap tire places did this to me, so I speak from experience.
Great tip!!!
i don't have a torque wrench. When i take off/replace the caliper i was just gonna use a socket wrench and my he-man strength. can this work?
Soon as possible after having anyone with an impact gun on wheels I take out the lug wrench and a long pipe for leverage and loosen then tighten each lug by hand one a time. This way if a flat or other service is needed I know I can get the wheels off. They guerrilla at least one lug 90% of the time and if you leave it that way not only can it cause other problems but you will not be able to get the wheel off. I also remove and reinstall any lug locks myself, not letting the impact gun cause damage or over-torque to them as happened once.
@@mrbrown30238 you can use the eemmph indicator
Better than your wheels falling off
This video is just great. Thanks for the tips Chris!
+Emmanuel Morales Awesome! Glad you like the video and tips!
The tip over greasing guide pins apparently doesn't work with all cars, i used to do this, but recently i changed pads on my bmw e93 and i read that the manual says do not grease them.
Overall helpful video. Can add couple things, as a lot ppl mentioned, pump the brakes after brake job before taking off. Brush good the parts on caliper carrier and caliper where the pad slides against, and use anti squeal paste on the contact areas. Before retracting the cylinder it's good to spray grease underneath the rubber boot. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap before retracting the cylinder, makes it much easier (though pushing out fluid through bleeding valve will do the same). Use copper grease when putting back the wheel, it will prevent the wheel from rust seizing on the rotor, make sure to clean the rotor from any of the grease that accidentally has dripped or sprayed on the pad contact area.
Hey ChrisFix - I think another tip for some folks is to use just a small bit of anti-seize on the lug studs. This helps in keeping the studs and lug nuts from binding and possibly snapping. In very small amounts it doesn't allow the lug nut to loosen over time, but will allow it to come off with an impact. Literally the worst feeling in the world is when you snap a stud trying to take off a lug nut you just put on a month ago.
Great tip! Thanks!!!
Never lube lug studs with anything, anti-seize included. The studs are meant to remain dry. Not only will lube cause your torque values to be incorrect (assuming you torque your lugs properly), lube will also cause your lug nuts to come loose. Not good! Over-torquing is what causes binding and snapping off of lug studs. Use proper torque values! If lubing lug studs was a good idea, all new cars/trucks would come this way. They don't.
There's no "one size fits all" in this discussion. Lots of variations and situations. In general, anti-seize is for mating surfaces. Of course, male and female threads are also mating surfaces. But, where a proper torque value is concerned, it is usually accomplished with "clean, dry threads". If torque value or tightness isn't an issue or requirement, feel free to anti-seize. I was mainly talking about wheel studs and lug nuts. No lube, no anti-seize. Clean, dry threads. Unless, of course, you want your lug nuts to come loose while you're driving down the highway.
I love the fact that you can guess the tone of the "Hey guys, ChrisFix here" just by looking at the age of the video
Good tips, Chris! One of the best channels on RUclips.
Great tips. Thanks! I've started using ZEP products because of your videos. Great stuff.
+SyberPrepper Thanks and awesome! I really like a lot of their stuff and that brake cleaner works great! What have you tried and do you like it?
+ChrisFix I've tried the Zep 40 Spray glass cleaner and really like it. Seems like a luxury in a way but it works so much better than Windex or the like.
Tip: dont use a chrome socket on an impact gun
Sometimes impact sockets are too fat, and 99% of the times chrome works just fine .
RIP to my 13mm 💀
@@robertleftwich1122 ...and sometimes you try, split them down the side, and have to go to Sears and _hope_ that you can scavenge up a free replacement before all the meat is picked off the bones of the place.
Don't ask.
Great video. My tip is to loosen or remove master cylinder brake fluid cap. After brake job, pump the break pedal to get piston and new pads snug against rotor. Opening bleeder etc could definitely result in air getting into your brake lines...not good..
here is my tip, if you have dual caliper brakes and your brake compression tool only does one caliper, place one of the old pads back into the rotor and then continue to use the tool as normal.
there are double ended brake caliper compressor. you must have a truck or a high performance car if you have that set up.
Just a 2005 ford falcon, the double ended ones are hard to come by without paying ridiculous prices in Australia.
+Ben Jamin great tip! I always use a brake pad even when it is just one piston because it will evenly compress it.