How to Replace Brake Pads and Rotors Top 10 Brake Job Tips
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Need new brake pads and rotors? Watch this video on my Top 10 Brake Replacement Tips before you change your brake because I cover a few tips that many people overlook!
Brake Cleaner: www.amazon.com/...
Wire Brush Set: www.amazon.com/...
Brake Compressor Tool: www.amazon.com/...
Here is the Silicone Paste I used: www.amazon.com/...
Antiseize I use: www.amazon.com/...
How to Replace Brake Pads (the Complete Guide): • How to Change Front an...
How to Prevent Uneven Brake Wear: • How to Fix Uneven Brak...
One Man Brake Bleeder: • How to Make a One Pers...
How to Replace Drum Brakes: • How to Change Drum Bra...
How to Bleed Brakes: • How to do a Complete B...
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix. Copyright 2015 ChrisFix All rights reserved.
my top tip is to watch chris fix before undertaking a diy job.
+abdi risaq mohamed haha that is a good one!
I agree and i always look up a job here as Chris Fix is guaranteed to show a top job.
Lol true just finished a job and that bleeding tip would have been good to know lol
Just watch out for the April fools ones hahahaa
😂 but who does ChrisFix watch?
These videos are awesome. Swear by them!
+Alex Kersten Thanks Alex! Glad you like the videos! Im loving the articles you do on the MX5... So much so that I am looking to get one now!
hey bro love your vids..... quick question.... how often should you change your rotors? I dont change mine every pad swap I'm no mechanic I love working and learning my car tho so I "try" to do alot my self.. just thought I'd ask thanks...
Great job sir . everything is perfect bro :-)
+Syed Adeel Thanks man!
+ChrisFix :-) please make video for accident check of whole body coz lot of time when we wabt to buy a car they told us it is just repainted but actually car repaired aftar accident .
Very nice job awesome tips
Turning the steering helps a lot here in Australia are common car is a Ford falcon if you turn the steering without starting the motor it cavitates the power steering pump and the thing will be noisy for the next two weeks while it self bleeds again
sometimes it can be best to start the motor turn the steering to make sure you don’t stuff the system up it’s not that big a deal but if you’re doing somebody else’s car they will think you’ve done something to damage it............
GREAT JOB VERY EDUCATIONAL
Awesome information!
Another tip. Check caliper brackets for wear and bends and replace if possible. Also grease metal contact points for the caliper brackets and brake pad backing plate
Hey Chris, I love your videos.
Just wanted to know if it's a worthwhile investment to upgrade to slotted rotors if your car originally has standard ones.
I'm no mechanic by any means, but I'm positive that the holes or slots allow for air to help with keeping rotors cooler.
is it safe to use copper anti seize on back of brake pad? is it safe on rubber piston boot?
Does the wear indicator have to go to the top of the caliper or does it not matter ?
Great video again!!
Nice vid 👍🏾
hey i have a honda stream and i want to replace my disc wheel or rotor as you called it which one must i get
I failed to take caliper off on my 2011 Elantra hatchback. The caliper is bolted to a strutt so you must unbolt a very difficult component and therefore cannot replace rotor. . I guess that's why a mech wanted $700 for a brake job and another couldn't do it on the spot.
Hub rust scrapping isn't enough with a hand wire brush to get the face true. Need a rotary brush or sanding disc.
TIP#11
CLEAN the caliper bracket where the hardware goes to hold the pads and allows the pads to slide evenly
Tip 11: press the brakes a few times before driving off your driveway.
Pieter LOL
Pieter ,You are the perfect man, that is much important.
Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap before compressing the piston back to prevent damage to the abs pump.
@@rowentan well if you crack open the bleeder valve that fluid isn't going back to the reservoir
@@g19634 I've seen service technician at Mazda dealership compressed the piston without releasing the bleeder valve nor removing the reservoir cap. That's definitely going to screw up the abs pump module. Removing the reservoir cap technique is useful when you don't have another person assisting you on your brake job.
I have been changing brakes for years.... "Tip 1, turn the steering wheel" Whelp, I guess I can learn a few new things.
@ALXXX struggling 🤣
@@Power_Glove yes you can.....??
@@Power_Glove I did... It was dangerous I guess?
Hahaha I was thinking the same thing...frickin lightbulb 💡 just went on. “Oh... yeah”
@@Power_Glove Turn the steering wheel, jack, replace breaks, set down, turn the steering wheel, jack, replace breaks, set down. Just plan ahead. And if you don't plan, to plan ahead, if you are like me you will not do it!
Tip: be sure you have the tools you need so you don't have to stop in the middle.
my brain: yes absolutely
also my brain: we don't need that tool, forget about it
Especially if it is your only car. :)
Sometimes you don't know what tools you'll need until you hit that oh shit point in a job and realize you didn't have what you thought you did. Those tools vary by car and model, so you'll hit that point eventually if you don't have a full garage.
Oof. You got me with this one. Touche my dude.
@@Enonymouse_ lmao that oh shit part is the worst
Most important tip: Pump your brakes before you go anywhere ( after brake job is done )
Thanks for the tip!
Should I pump brakes after each brake change? Or once after they are all changed?
After all are changed
then recheck fluid level
@@randynewtoff9350 the blinker fluid?
It's really important to mention about pressing the brake pedal right before the brake job is finished. Working at the dealer we had one technician get crushed by a vehicle as another technician tried to deliver the car to the owner. The guy got crushed as he was between the tool box and the car. He got paralyzed because of someone forgeting to press the brake pedal. Safety is always first.
Damn wtf.
What does pressing the brake pedal do? Or do you mean just holding it down while the car is lowered? Expand please!
@@lyianxso you know how you compress the break cylinder to install the break pads. We’ll press the breaker to add that tension again and be able to stop. If that thing doesn’t have pressure you’ll step the break all the way in and won’t be able to stop on time
seems the technician should learn drive from reverse also.
Horrible story. Hope the guy is living the best life he can
Tip11: Never pump out the caliper piston too far whilst cleaning the rubber boot otherwise it'll cause brake fluid to leak or the piston to drop off completely causing you to spend hours trying to get the piston and rubber boot back into the caliper as well as re-bleeding the brake system to get the air lock out of the master clinder...and don't ask me how I know all that😳😳
Dude facts and bleeding takes longer then expected lollol
is ceramic brake grease ok for the guide pins? or strictly silicon
@@Itsyunlo
I use bendix brake grease sold in those small packets you get from your auto stores...they cost about $2.50...one packets does two calipers.
Ceramasil Brake Parts Lubricant
@@williamb8479 I used permatex silicon ceramic grease for the hardware and back of pads a bit. then permatex silicon-only for caliper guide pins and what not
Chris, I just finished doing my brakes and here's one you forgot to mention.
"Wear those Latex gloves unless you want to be spending an equal amount of time washing your hand afterwards."
You can put like five layers of them on so you just peel the outside glove off each time they get used up. No fumbling trying to put new ones on with sweaty hands. Thanks again!
I have become far more handy with my car and house over past decade due to RUclips. And honestly your extra tip is as important as nearly any on car work. even if you use 4 pairs of latex gloves doing a brake job (due to taking a break, having to help your kid with something, hands get too sweaty, etc) it is a major time saver. Yes some latex waste, but washing hands in hot water for 5 minutes is not exactly waste free.
ya can get gloves cheap at harbr freight
I buy the black nitrate gloves. 100xbetter and they fit.
@@zardozqq black nitrate gloves only. The blues are to small and break super quick
Great video man, keep it up. GOJO is a miracle worker. That Citrus and Pumice water-less hand cleaner takes that grease off in no time. Killer stuff.
Chris, You are what is good about the internet and You Tube. I have been working on my own cars for 50 years and your videos and tips are done so well and if anyone out there needs helped and have tried to find an honest mechanic who charges fair prices and (they are getting harder to find) then don’t be afraid to try it yourself. Chris makes it easy to follow do what he says step by step and don’t be lazy and skip any steps because they really can help parts last.
Thanks a lot Buck!
Only 1 comment?
My tip is to poop before changing the brakes
Best. tip. ever
A tip that Mr. Regular would approve of
And be sure to use plenty of lube!
But not on the brakes. Right??
+michael adams On your slider pin :)
Great tips, quick update to accommodate newer vehicles....for those who may not know, don't try to compress the rear brake caliper pistons if the vehicle has EPB (Electronic Parking Brake). There are some work arounds but you should use a diagnostic to put the EPB in service mode or risk costly damage
depends on the car the subaru i have uses electric parking brake on drum brake and the disk part on rear for driving you just have to release parking brake to get rotor drum combo off
Was gonna add this but its about 2 years too late haha. My mom had a 2020 Corolla, and you basically had to put in the Konami code to release the EPB.
It's not hard to do but confusing, especially since I mostly work on 2000s domestic vehicles, and my truck is a 04, so I can just hit it, and it fixes itself. That damn Corolla was confusing af, being a Japanese manufacturer, and pretty new.
Great video, Chris. Not a wasted moment or misspoken word. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video!
yeah chris is a straight shooter ...luv this guy
Hopelessand Forlorn what I was thinking
Hopelessand Forlorn awesome
Ulpdn lot
H
spent an hour beating the shit out the rotor from different angles when changing my rear brakes, without anything happening. took the handbreak off and 30 seconds later it came off easy..
james smalling lol this just happened to me
james smalling I had the same problem, my rotors wouldn't come off after a beating. luckily I saw on RUclips, that there are two m8 screw holes which when you put in two screws, it breaks the rotor off
According to another RUclipsr named ElectroBOOM:
You learn by experience if you experience what you learn more often.
alex seppala you can see the screws. It should be pretty obvious
love u bro
When you’ve watch this video a few days after you just changed brakes and rotors. 😂 great share.
Mike Swizzy yes same here lol
Exactly
@@millhouse313 lol
Exactly the same here lol
Same 😂 and I’m a mechanic.
I really like your no-nonsense car fix videos. It's especially helpful when you shove the camera in those hard to see places to show everyone. Keep it up!
+Dennis Chua Thanks a lot! I am glad you are enjoying the videos and like how they are produced!
+ChrisFix We're all impressed and thankful for what you do for us all.Please keep up the impressive work.
ChrisFix helps new car guys out or just people wanting to learn. I appreciate your videos they help out alot. Very informative and with video to show most too.
I used to hang my calipers from a bungee cord, now I turn a 5-gal. bucket upside down and rest them on the bucket. Easier and quicker.
Wish I saw this last week lol
U cant clean all sides
Ron Suttle I have a few pieces of hanger wire to hang the caliper. I keep them in my brake tool box
I just place them up on the strut spring they stay fine there
thanks for the tip.
Tip: dont use a chrome socket on an impact gun
Sometimes impact sockets are too fat, and 99% of the times chrome works just fine .
RIP to my 13mm 💀
@@robertleftwich1122 ...and sometimes you try, split them down the side, and have to go to Sears and _hope_ that you can scavenge up a free replacement before all the meat is picked off the bones of the place.
Don't ask.
Thanks Chris! I've been teaching Auto Technology for 20+ years and this is the best brake video I've seen. These are the things that separate a professional brake job from a shade tree. I emphasize every one of your tips and now my students know I'm not the only one stressing these things. Good production as well.
I Subscribed to your channel. Keep up the good work!
Bill Kitt
Automotive Technology Professor
ASE Master Tech, L1,
Exactly. One reason I started doing my own brakes when I was younger. Shops weren't cleaning parts and greasing pins. Just little simple things that make your brakes function at top efficiency.
Its good not the best. No lubrication added to main boot at the caliper. No discussion of loctite should be added at saddle bolts and caliper bolts. Should wire wheel the bolts as well too bring back too nice clean threads. Anti seize should be applied at all mating surfaces. Caliper too saddle ect. Also behind the rotor that mates too the hub so both surfaces are sealed and one doesn't rust before the other. Also cookie cleaning everything with a compressor beats a wire brush most times unless you can't get into the spots.
@@f3arful top 10 dude.. top 10 :P
also remember to pump the brake pedal a couple of times to bring the pedal up before driving
+Mark Quigley Great tip!
When I was about 16 yrs old I almost took off my car door backing out of the garage after changing my brakes for the first time. LOL Much easier and cheaper to learn from someone else's mistakes!
First time I did front discs, pumped the brakes - all good. Realized I was late to pick my gf up from work, slammed it in reverse, slammed it in to a wall!
Learning - its what we do.
Same ive done breaks many times before i was in a rush to pick up my gf back up thankfully no one was behind and manage to pull the e brakes
+Will Walsh wait so the problem wasn't that you didn't pump the brakes? you meant to put it in Drive I'm assuming? haha
My only tip to add to this is to use an impact socket when using an impact wrench. I've seen a number of people break chrome sockets on an impact. That can be pretty dangerous. Not only can things go flying, the broken socket can be very sharp.
RickMakes I broke a phillips head bit with an impact socket wrench when I was trying so hard to get a seized screw off my rotor on my old Civic. It wouldn't come loose and I kept on trying then the bit snapped.
RickMakes why do you change the router too?
Paul P Jr probably because you were using a phillips screwdriver on a Japanese industry standard screw
Ribeye Robert D no just makes you dumb for doing something that doesn’t work obviously
My car is 20 years old now. The rear caliper bolts are dead stickly, i can't release them at all . I need an impact power wrench.
Been changing brakes for myself, friends, and family for around 20 years and I only do about half of these tips. I'm definitely going to incorporate some more of them into my next project! As you said, these things are often overlooked. If you don't do them, you're not necessarily doing the job "wrong", but why skip such easy steps which will help avoid future problems when you already have the system apart? Awesome video!
Got someone to do my front brakes a week ago, watched them do it and thought "damn i could have saved myself 40 bucks"
Going to get educated and do the rear myself, maybe ill be on your level one day doing brakes for others
Maybe practice on other peoples cars first and if they survive, then you can do your own?
I always start out with great intentions to do the bleeder valve tip, but have now 100% of the time skipped it. too lazy for that extra step.
I never thought to clean the hub like I spray it down with brake cleaner but I never thought to use a wire brush on it
Eric Prado It’s actually not too hard if you got the right tools that’s important it makes the job 10x more easy with the right tools. Hardest part is getting the car jacked up safely but even that’s easy once you do it a few times
Tip 11: Have an ice cold beer or 2 within reach for the moments you want yell WTF!?!
LOL
I have NEVER cleaned behind the cylinder boot. Great tip. Thanks.
That's why there's good mechanics and there's you.
Javier Fernandez yea right, no one is doing that on a brake job. Your an idiot. There’s cool people in this word then there’s you.
@@pnv8477 yeah people do hate to tell you that
Chris you make me feel like I can fix anythingcar related!! Thank you so much for all your videos.😁
I never cracked the bleeder valve when pushing back the pistons, is that bad ? I never had a problem doing the way I always do it
My top tips. Don't handle the pads with dirty hands. Don't touch the friction material face at all if you can help it. Put grease on anything that rubs together, silicone if its protected with a rubber boot, lug nut torque is important and too much will warp your new rotors, and do not forget to break you pads in.
these are awesome and should be kept at top of comment rack.
All awesome tips. The biggest debated thing seems to be whether or not to properly bed in brakes
what do you do to break in the new pads?
@@lifeisgood070 well... You brake..
@@nojustumasbacauskas7175 ur tip stay on top of it there is a coat hanger calliper bungi and a spray the metal clips to not over exceed brake pad fitments and unlike cleaner any parts can be done as a dirt check or spray but the bleeding bit fluid contaminated come out on the wheel is thought ans this were after locating where the greese got into from another rubber isolator and lucky the wheel stays on as well as the tyre
One of the best automotive tip / repair channels on youtube....clear, concise and with attention to detail.
Well done Chris.
Do a wheel lug nut re- torque after driving 100 miles.
DONT TOUCH BRAKE FLUID OR GET IT ON CARS :^) it melts paint
+beshj Great tip!
Also when you finish any brake job pump the pedal and make sure it gets firm. This is so you don't get any surprises when your driving away for the first time!
+Zed Man haha, good tip!
I really liked tip #8. What I usually do when compressing the piston, is just crack the cap on the reservoir so the fluid can go back up without building pressure in there. And for those of you that don't have a brake caliper compressor, just use a C-clamp on the caliper while it is still bolted on.
this can be a problem for vehicles with antilock brakes, pushing the fluid back up the brake lines can damage the antilock module, which is a very expensive component to replace. but, if it's an older vehicle that doesn't have antilock brakes this is what i do and after the calipers are fully retracted, i suck all of the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder and replace it with new fluid before pumping up and bleeding the new brakes.
@@marzsit9833 very unnecessary to change your brake fluid that often
This is a great tip that I never thougt of doing
C clamp is always my go to, just place a socket in the piston hole and press against that so your not clamping the actual surface of the piston to avoid any damage from the clamp :)
Another tip I’ve learned through working in the field is to always unscrew the cap of the brake fluid reservoir. It’ll make pushing the piston back a whole lot easier
Marco Gullone Cause it not pressured with the cap off
He released the bleeder valve so he didn’t need to do that but if you’re afraid of getting air in your brake system that’s a great idea the cap on the reservoir
I did this. I used slip joint pliers to get the piston down. No problem. I would much rather the brake fluid reservoir overflow a bit than have to bleed the air. Put some rags around to catch the extra. When you finish you can put the reservoir cap back on, pump the brakes, and if you're lucky the level will come back to near the max level. If over that upper limit you'll have to bring out the turkey baster or similar to siphon a bit off.
This was one tip I was going to add.
As always Chris, this is an excellent video, (just like all the others you’ve made that I’ve
watched). The video is an education in itself. One tip that may be useful; it’s
always difficult to keep the pad material clean when handling brake grease, so I
cover the friction surfaces with masking tape until I’m ready to fit the pads
to the caliper. This helps to keep the pads grease and dirt free.
I love the fact that you can guess the tone of the "Hey guys, ChrisFix here" just by looking at the age of the video
Top tip 11: After installing new rotors and pads, Break them in so that you get the most wear life out of them. Instruction manual will tell you how
+Peter Kapica Thanks for the tip!
My top tip is quadruple check and make sure your pads aren’t put on backwards I’ve heard stories of professionals doing it and it’s especially important to know you’re doing it right when you’re starting out because we’re all human
Well done and very informative. Thank you for not putting any music in the background.
Great brake tips! One thing I do every time I inspect or change the brakes is condition the rubber parts. I use silicone spray on hoses, guide pin boots etc to keep them from cracking and failing.
I always clean and grease the caliper or bracket that holds the pads where the edges of the pad slide toward the rotor when braking
we can't thank you enough for your videos so like always a BIG LIKE FOR THIS ONE
+Jose Rubiera Awesome! Glad the video was helpful!
Good tips bro! However, please also consider adding more tips to deal with heavy rust build up in practically all stationary metal-to-metal contact points. For example, all around the brake pads, underneath the thin metal shims/clips, between the caliper and its mounting bracket, etc. Newbies find it hard to remove various components simply because they just don't know what's normal and what's not in terms of movement between various parts. Rust causes so much binding in relatively short period that it often requires repeated but gentle hammering to remove the caliper assembly and its mounting bracket from the rotors. Newbies don't always know that it's OK to hammer them out gently. Also, the wire brush is not always sufficient to remove the rust. Hard scraping using a flat-head screwdriver or a dremmel rotory brush/grinder, sandpaper or even a file may be necessary depending on where people live. Rust might not be a big problem in dry/desert states, but it's a huge issue in states with even modest annual rain or snow fall.
if you live in the rust belt or anywhere where they salt the roads in winter you will never have a solution to rust. common aluminum-based anti-seize compound actually makes the rust worse due to galvanic corrosion, the only anti-seize that works in this situation is nickel-based, which is hard to find and more expensive but worth the cost.
#11 loosen the Master cylinder cap. This released pressure on the entire system, and serves as a back up if you use the caliper bleeder. Or if you don't want or can't loosen the bleeders, this reduced pressure allows the piston to go in easier and avoid straining or damaging the anti lock system.
so which shop does work with this tipps? I have the feeling that carshops just put the old part out, and the new in, without looking at the Pistons, Rubber e.g.
+Ricy013 when you pay 200 Extra bucks on the service, they will do that.
If you want a cheap ass service like every one else here on earth, because they drive like 20 extra miles to save 5 bucks on there service, then they won't do it.
I'm a Mecanic and as far I know, nobody does that stuff.
ok we grease the guide pins. we look for damaged boots. but thats all.
I would love to do more inspection to the customers cars.
But they all want it cheap as fuck. so there is no time for that shit.
+inchunschannel dealerships yes :P because you pay for it but some people expect the same quality while paying the mechanic a couple of dola bills it just will not happend
+inchunschannel This is totally dependent on the mechanic, a good one will see that this is all done proper, for many, it's all about how many tickets they can finish, making more money.Find a GOOD mechanic, watch his work, tip them a couple of bucks, a soda, a candy bar, whatever, and they are "more likely" (not 100%) but more likely to take care of you.
+Ricy013 That is why I teach everyone how to do this work on your own so you dont have to rely on a shop. They are looking for quick turnaround while you are looking to safely and properly maintain your vehicle.
@@chrisfix I do all my work because I have a hard time finding a shop where the bottom line is EVERYTHING. Most of the time I wind up where something is not only fixed improperly, but something else is wrong. I used to go to a shop (in the early 60's) where my father knew the owner/mechanic. I'd take it in for inspection, he'd just tell me what was wrong and I'd bring it back fixed (as long as it wasn't over my head.) Then he'd re-inspect and pass it. After a few years, I'd just bring it in and tell him it was fixed and he'd pass it because he knew I was honest and did a good job. You simply can't do that any more.
Chris, as usual, brilliant. what about a video on how to add aftermarket DRL's or parking sensors???
+juman islam Thanks and awesome suggestion! I will add it to the list!
Brilliant! Looking forward
get som ole skool gansta curb finders. haha.
+ChrisFix Chris you are the best 👍
I hope my mechanic does all this when doing my brakes and rotors lol
Save a ton of money by doing it your self and know its been done right.
Jose De La Cruz you know they don't. They do as little as possible while charging you as much as possible. People nowadays take no pride in their work.
@@SteveSabbai people cut corners with everything not only cars but anything we buy or use. Its terrible.
Good luck!
I've always been a little intimated of doing my own brakes. But after watching this vid, I'm gonna give it a go!
How did it go?
@@s0la.scr1ptura he died in accident, cuz his brakes did not work
Read tip 11
Tip #11, drench the f@%# out of the rusty bolts overnight with wd-40 or PB blaster
Tip #12, put the lug nuts on when banging the sh$% out of a stuck rotor to protect from damaging the threading on the lug bolts
Tip #13, Anti seize, anti-seize anti-seize!!!!!!!
I regret not finding this comment sooner, tip#12 would've saved me cos now my threads are fucked up
Chris, thank you for some excellent tips. You made my day. Starting with tip #1, that one really rocks. I've watched brakes being replaced as well as doing them myself throughout the years. I've never seen anyone turn the wheel for easier access. It's been years since I've done brakes but, today I'll feel like I can tackle them with confidence and ease using all of your tips. That also goes for the tips in the comments your subscribers shared. Thank you all for making my day an easier one. You and your subscribers rock,
Yes! Greasing the guide pins is one step that most of the brake job videos on RUclips tend to leave out…. One thing you did leave out that most others do also is that before you press the piston back into the caliper, you should remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and wrap a towel around the reservoir to catch any brake fluid that may seep out as you are pressing the piston back into the caliper…
He didn't do it because he was unscrewing the valve bleeder.
Your suppose to press the brake pedal to make sure the break pressure is right.
Only on a break fluid flush dummy, all he did was bleed a little out and no air got in
@@mdguthro The "dummy" is right. You compressed the pistons to you'll have the pump to get them to extend back to the pads for proper pressure.
B-R-A-K-E not break. This is mostly for the guy calling people dummy.
Tip 12 if your caliper bleeder valve is exposed moisture and dirt can get in them so you should order a cover for them to prevent that
here is my tip, if you have dual caliper brakes and your brake compression tool only does one caliper, place one of the old pads back into the rotor and then continue to use the tool as normal.
there are double ended brake caliper compressor. you must have a truck or a high performance car if you have that set up.
Just a 2005 ford falcon, the double ended ones are hard to come by without paying ridiculous prices in Australia.
+Ben Jamin great tip! I always use a brake pad even when it is just one piston because it will evenly compress it.
I wish you were here for MY CAR :)
you got this!
Properly torque your wheel nuts!!!! If nuts aren't torqued a wheel might fall off while driving. An over torqued nut can break a wheel stud or warp a rotor.
+Frank Gonzalez Thanks for the tip! Just like last weeks video: ruclips.net/video/3v3hLvuO_KU/видео.html
Must have watched a dozen brake rotor videos, and yet I still learned something new here, thanks
That’s the goal with my videos! Glad you learned something new!
Based on my personal experience and failures: Always use a torque wrench to go over all the bolts before re-installing the tire. My worse experience was forgetting to tighten one of the bolts on the caliper mounts. Good thing the one bolt that I DID tighten held off for a good half a mile to where I could stop to investigate what happened. I will never make the same mistake again. It could have resulted in a bad accident but thank God it didn't. Also as described by this video, using the proper lubrication for the guide pins is a must. I've had bad experiences where a 'professional' mechanic failed to use the proper full synthetic silicon lubricant. It caused the rubber boot to swell up and seize up the guide pin. I had a hell of a time trying to get it out. Great video, Chris!
Thanks And thanks for sharing your tips. Funny enough, lay weeks video was all about how to use and take care of your torque wrench.
+Geir Slotsvik 10 years aircraft avionics and A&P fighter jets, heavies, and currently on helos. Even professionals get too relax sometimes and slip one through the crack. I'm an amateur when it comes to cars but I apply the same principles when I do my own car repairs and preventative maintenance. I ain't perfect, but I learn from my mistakes and those of others. I still rely on manuals for specifics like torque values and measurements. Never stop learning is the best advice I've gotten from my superiors. 20 years experience is great although i wouldn't rely fully on torque by feel in my area of work. Kudos!
my tip? don't strip the nuts. use a 6 point wrench or socket!!!!
+Will Yeah Totally agree! I ruined quite a few nuts in the past - but not with a 6 point wrench.
Definitely an overlooked one!
Read that too late. Just had to replace caliper guide pins on my '05 Mazda 6 due to this.
There’s special sockets you can get for striped bolts that will unscrews it.
Great tips Chris, don't forget to pump em up after you'er finished, shockin I'll tell ya! D-)
yeah lol! always hit a car at work, colleges sidst tell that i should pump i didnt think og it lol Scary for sure!
F wtf does this mean
when you're finished on a brake job, you should pump your brake up and down a couple of times to get nice brake pressure!
@@ianvanorder1868 to get new pads to fit you compress the piston, once all new pads are around you will need to pump the brakes so the piston can extend to its operating length.
Good point! This should be performed with the engine off (not running) and immediately after each wheel install.
One of my top fifteen is to slightly loosen the lug nuts just a turn or two, called "breaking", while the wheels are still on the ground. This way, when the car is up on the jack stands, getting the lug nuts off is a heck of lot easier. Another tip is too tape off, prime and paint the bare hub of the rotor, the part of course that doesn't come in contact with the pads. I also get off any rust and prime and paint the hub but that's just me. I hate rust.
+Jesse Parris Thanks for your tips!
My Tip: Remember, righty tighty lefty loosey, but not on your side. The bolts that hold the caliper and bracket are facing opposite from you, so when you go to loosen them, you're turning towards your right, which is the bolt's left.
I accidentally snapped my caliper bolt in half by tightening it with all my might when I meant to loosen it. I don't know, maybe I'm just stupid.
+BattlefrontZero Thanks for sharing your tip! We all make those mistakes sometimes so dont feel dumb!
+ChrisFix
My top tip after changing the discs or the brake pads, or both is to go in the car and press the brake pedal several times and when driving to expect for a while that brakes will be not so great like before. To avoid that you can find a empty road and use hard the brakes while driving in order to set the discs and brake pads to each other.
+BattlefrontZero That probably explains why I stripped one of the caliper bracket bolts and had to get it replaced...
+BattlefrontZero Set your ratchet to the correct direction before loosening/tightening so you will never get the direction wrong!
I did the same thing yesterday I thought I was loosening it but I was actually tightening and I stripped the threads on the bolt and caliper bracket so nice tip for the next person.
Best Brake job video I've ever seen, PERIOD !!!
+kicksoffs Thanks a lot!
No prob brother.
Pump brakes after brake bleed and refill as it goes low. Do not let air into the brake lines, very important.
Thanks for the tip!
A second tip: Here in road salt country, wheels and rotors often get fused to the hub. Loosen the lug nuts one turn before lifting the car, drive some S turns in the driveway, then lift the car and the wheels will be loose!
that is the scariest shit i have ever heard!!!!
Or you can get a brake puller a good heavy duty one. Bang the drum or rotor couple times loosens some rust spray the hub around the studs with WD40 let it set for a bit. Put your puller in place and crank it with a wrench make sure you put the lug nuts back on not tight but just snug and it’ll pop off with no issues.
Coty Pemberton whats so scarey about that? Loosen only ONE turn and do some S turns in the Driveway lol. I’m pretty sure you will be just fine😂
How'd you know i was going to do my brakes tomorrow? ;)
His ChrisFix senses were tingling
+krauser979 My ChrisFix senses were tingling!
+Liqhuid haha, exactly!
+krauser979 Even more impressive, Chris knew i was going to do it in the next
15 minutes. Just returning from the auto parts store, I was taking my breakfast while looking at my suscribed channels and i saw this new video. This man should also have a fortune-teller channel.
+krauser979 I am planning to do it tommorow too :) THX +Chrisfix for useful tips :)
I took ALL five lugnuts off, the car jacked up but can't get the mag wheel off... HELP! Great video otherwise.
Tip 11: bleed all brake fluid out once in 7 years.
Good idea!
Manufacturers recommend doing this change of the brake fluid between 24 to 36 months, not in 84 like you mentioned !!!!!
@@peterhrd8310 At least every 7 years, but 3-4 would be better.
@@chrisfix got a video?
@@jdub8305 Yes, just search for it. There is a video showing the 1 man method or the 2 man method. Both are super as easy.
Great tips Chris! Thought I'd mention one more important reason to crack the nipple and let out brake fluid when pushing the piston back - when you push fluid up and back to the master cylinder you can damage seals and control valves $$ especially on older vehicles as the seals start deteriorating with age.
I like trying to work on my car when I am able to do the job myself, these are fabulous tips. Thank you!
Everyone forgets about greasing the pins
Hey Chris, your videos are awesome! I love how you get to the point, it's well structured and also I like how you say "consider subscribing" instead of "make sure to subscribe"
You don't need to bleed when moving the piston back..just have the cap off the brake filler resouir
I can't believe I never thought of turning the wheel xd I busted my hands up so many times xd thanks for that tip :)
Safety, safety, safety....make sure the vehicle is properly supported on jack stands and not only by the jack.
Place a tire beneath the frame in case the vehicle does fall, the rotors/axle won't hit the ground.
Remove the cap to the master cylinder before beginning, place paper towels around the master cylinder to catch any overflowing brake fluid as a result of compressing the cylinder.
Torque each bolt type to its specified value, including lug nuts.
Learn how to "Bed In" the new brake pads.
-Later
You should have mentioned buying life time replacement pads you buy them once then free pads for life lol and another awesome video man
+Next Level Life just the way it works lol I've got 4 sets of pads for free most people don't know that so they just buy the cheapest pads and buy a new set every yr when they could buy the more expensive pads and never have to buy them again.
Oh I know someone has to lose money but I don't care about that big of a company they will never miss my $50 preset and they have given me a new set for a set that was completely gone never even questioned it
+Julian Rada Right, it's the equivalent of McDonald's selling drinks for $1 no matter the size. Those companies are so big things like recycling their brake pads are pennies to them.
+Next Level Life its very smart I didn't know it until one of my mom's friends seen me going to buy new brake pads and he changed my life lol it's a awesome deal I think and not enough people know they can actually do it so the company don't have anything to worry about
Julian Rada what website is it?
Remember to include to tighten the wheel to the manufactured specs. Using a impact wrench (over-torquing)can cause uneven pad wear. The cheap tire places did this to me, so I speak from experience.
Great tip!!!
i don't have a torque wrench. When i take off/replace the caliper i was just gonna use a socket wrench and my he-man strength. can this work?
Soon as possible after having anyone with an impact gun on wheels I take out the lug wrench and a long pipe for leverage and loosen then tighten each lug by hand one a time. This way if a flat or other service is needed I know I can get the wheels off. They guerrilla at least one lug 90% of the time and if you leave it that way not only can it cause other problems but you will not be able to get the wheel off. I also remove and reinstall any lug locks myself, not letting the impact gun cause damage or over-torque to them as happened once.
@@mrbrown30238 you can use the eemmph indicator
Better than your wheels falling off
I’ve seen mechanics skip tip 2 and 5 many times. That’s why I don’t let anyone touch my car.
Tip 2 is not nessasary if they are fine, alot of old grease can be good enough if its not dirty. Also the tip 5, i never grease behind the rotor, the heat is harder to get away if there are grease behind it, if the brakedisc becomes to hot they will be damaged. if the rotor is hard to get off when replacing the brakes, use a hammer.
Hey Chris thanks for another great vid I am learning a lot off of you and you got my sub for sure.
Cheeky request, could you do a video on how to troubleshoot all the different brake noises you can get and what they could mean or how to stop or prevent them etc? I am going to go and check my brakes now because I heard some squealing yesterday and I thought it was just dust or a stone caught in the rotor but it might be the bear wear indicator. I am confused though because the noise lasted for maybe 15 mins and it depended on steering and changed with how much brake used but was almost always there and then stopped. Any suggestion welcome btw
#tip: lubricate the hardware to facilitate movements of the pads
if you put too much lubricant it can collect dirt as well.
+affane78 Great tip!
+ChrisFix learnt it from your videos lol
+RickTrajan Exactly! And I like to use antiseize to prevent dirt collection compared to typicall brake grease
John's top tip #11: You have a brake pad wear indicator under your hood that is easily viewed.
After installing new pads all around, bleed enough fluid so new fluid is in all calipers (a brake fluid change). Top up the brake reservoir. Then NEVER add brake fluid to the reservoir while these pads are on the car. The fluid level decrease will be an easy indicator of brake pad wear. Put tape on the cap so the oil change place doesn't mess with it.
The reservoir will hold significantly more fluid than the pistons can displace even if the pads are 100% worn down to where steel from the pad is touching all four rotors. A brake system that doesn't have a leak will never run out of fluid, I promise.
Your low brake fluid level light will indicate the pads are worn or a leak in the brake system. Either way your gonna fix it.
Topping up your fluid will subsequently force you to take off the tires to inspect the pads. Fluid level is in direct proportion to pad wear.
John Stefanick i did not know this. thank you.
John Stefanick that is super awesome tip, I will do it now that I changing the pads
This is absurd, there is a reason your reservoir is the size it is. What happens when a line bursts? Congratulations, you just screwed yourself out of a safe stop.
I never add fluid between jobs.
How to replace rear brake shoe pad on a 2012 ford e 150
Do you have to pump the brakes prior to driving after you finish the brake job?
Yes
BEST TIP HE FORGOT IS TO BUY CERAMIC NOT ASBESTOS BRAKE PADS (DER)
Jeez! How long do your cars last? 500,000 miles? Million miles?
+blackopsfan00 I'm at over 300k miles on my van but my other cars are in the hundreds right now.
+ChrisFix I gotta admit, you take damn good care of your cars
+ChrisFix by the way, what year is your Mazda truck?
+blackopsfan00 thanks, it's a 2001. When I got it, I needed to fix her up real good!
+ChrisFix thank you! Because I remember my uncle having that truck, but it was a manual. So many great memories as a kid! I remember always being squashed in those back seats that fold out hahaha
Got some tips for everyone. These tips ensure there will be no noise on the test drive. I used to work at Brake Masters and learned from a good mechanic who never had a car come back.
1. Once you take off the wheel and have access to the brakes, remove the bracket (s) closest to the line right away without thinking. It frees up space for you without turning the wheel and it becomes routine once you see how easy it makes it.
2. Go ahead and remove the bracket without removing the caliper from the bracket. This is just two bolts. Wiggle the assembly to free it and carefully remove. Remove the brake pads one by one and just slide the caliper off of the bracket. It helps to use your hands symmetrically and hold the assembly like a burger.
3. Remove the rotor. Don't use a hammer unless you are going to use a new rotor and check that the rotors match before you whack it. Nothing sucks more than realizing you have the wrong part and have to go back to the parts store.Take a quick note in your pocket notebook of the orientation of the hardware on the bracket if there is any. Put on some gloves and glasses. Can't stress the importance of using safety glasses during this part. Dilute some degreaser into a spray bottle and spray to your heart's content around the dust shield, the hub, behind the hub (very important), the caliper all over and in the piston hole, and the brackets all over. Use a long wire brush, a skinny long wire brush and preferably a cup brush that goes on the end of a Chuck drill and clean all of the brake dust off the pieces. Keep the drill in the wheel well so you don't dirty the car when it flings. During this part you will be using your wire brushes when all the parts are wet with degreaser. This is so much better than what I used to do because you will not be suffering from asbestos since it is too wet to float in the air. Brush every nook and cranny including where the hardware fits in. The only parts you shouldn't scrub are inside the piston, any rubber parts and the slide pins. After scrubbing spray degreaser until the stream runs mostly clean as it drips off the dirty parts. Be careful of the rubber boots on the slide pins or on the caliper and spray brake clean from the top to the bottom and you will see it run clean within a couple sprays from top to bottom. Use brake clean strategically, spray generally from top to bottom however the parts are oriented. Go with gravity and keep that money in your pocket. Spray until degreaser and brake dust are gone. If you run out of brake cleaner you can use water in a pinch but I do not recommend it as common practice.
4. Compress caliper. NOTE!! Do not EVER press a caliper piston back in while other calipers are removed. Doing so will pop another piston out and then you're in trouble. Just do the brakes one wheel at a time. I know this part sounds unnecessary but it prevents noise initially: take a normal flat metal file and file the new brake pads at the corners at a 45° angle where the sides meet the braking surface. This takes care of the sharp 90° angle shape that the brakes arrive in. This prevents the paint on the sides of the pads from building up right away.
5. Make sure every part is completely dry the brake clean should've helped with that very quickly. Use caliper grease and apply to slide pins, and the "ears" of the brake pads. Wet the tips of your thumb and index finger with caliper grease and just rub it all over every piece of hardware. You basically want a coat so thin on the hardware you can't see it but you can feel it. Install the gently greased hardware onto the bracket.
6. Make sure the face of the hub that contacts the rotor is completely cleaned and apply copper, nickel or aluminum anti seize sparingly to the flat face of the hub and don't get any on the lug studs/threads. This can kill someone of their lugs come loose on a highway. You don't have to get anti seize that close to the lugs for it to work anyways. Now spray your new rotor from top to bottom if it has grease on it with brake cleaner. Make sure it is dry and install the rotor and secure it.
7. Slide the caliper and bracket back together, secure the rubber boots to their spots and squish the air out of the boots. Make sure the pins are as deep as they go and install the brake pads one by one. It can be a trick at first but if you get it once you got it forever. I repeat make sure that the slide pins are fully in as deep as they go into the caliper before you install the pads. The pads might not fit if you don't make sure the slide pins are in all the way for the entire time you are installing both pads. Use the law of symmetry while installing each pad. They should slide in with minimal resistance. If they are not sliding in make sure that your hardware is nice and firm against the bracket and proceed to continue installing the brake pads. Do not force anything ever when installing anything having to do with brakes. If it is not I stalling easily something is in the way. Just stop and look to see what is in the path's space occupation of motion. Don't get any grease or oils on the actual brake pad material. It will deep into the pad the moment it touches so if you do accidentally get grease on the pad spray the spot immediately with a few spurts of brake cleaner and you will be fine. Now make sure your gloves thumbs are dry and hold the entire assembly like a burger which includes the bracket and caliper and brake pads and put your thumbs in between the brake pads to keep them from moving. Pick up this assembly as described and carefully install once you have the rotor in between the brakes your golden take your time and screw in theTOP BRACKET BOLT FIRST. This prevents your brake assembly from tilting back by accident and having to start over installing your pads. Button everything up and if you are reusing the same bracket bolts go above the factory torque spec at your discretion. Factory torque specs are meant to be used on new bolts and nuts since the shape of the nuts and bolts' threads are factory fresh. Their shape changes once they have been used so go tighter than factory specs especially on the bracket bolts. Mount the brake line bracket. Make sure you use your strength and push and pull the caliper with your hand to make sure everything moves smoothly and that there are no noises. If you followed these directions there will be no noise. Go to the brake pedal and press on the brake pedal several times at first it'll be squishy but it will end up firm as usual. Do not start the car until you have a firm brake pedal. If there is any kind of squeaking while breaking you missed something, maybe wipe some WD-40 on the brake pedal pivot point but if there is any noise coming from any of the actual brake assemblies you missed something. Probably lube.Hope this helps