Rebuilding My Catamaran’s Rotten Interior | Wildling Sailing
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2023
- It was a bit rotten, eh?
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I'm so impressed with your persistence, I love your accent it's just easy to listen to you.
I lived on a 53ft trimaran with two kids and a narcissist for a partner, he was all promises but no effort and I finally realised I'd have to give up my dream of boat life to escape him. So I do appreciate the effort you put in. Keep going you'll love that life alone or with the right person.
Sadie found the same out about the tyrant Trudeau. You made the right choice.
Just keep in mind the Polynesian seas as you dig out the rot. We believe in you Mark 😊
That abandoned Wharram boat gave me the sadness, poor thing!
Still, puts Mahi into context, onwards and upwards!
I used a vacuum cleaner to pressurize my boat and soapy water on the decks and hatches and fittings to find leaks hose outside cleaner inside it increases the pressure enough to blow bubbles.
Yup. Works really well for a lot of things. On a roof for example, you rent a large blower (usually used for venting spaces) cover the whole bottom and walls of the attic/crawl space in plastic which you tape as best you can and then let it loose and you go about with a smoke machine inside. You can see all the pin holes, leak holes and everything. Just have to make sure you vent all that smoke gradually so the neighbors don't call the firemen on you. :))
IMPORTANT: To see that you are gluing with the right amount of glue, Drill small holes in what you are Gluing and the glue should come out of these small hole as you push on the piece, it also helps the keying for more strength.
Best series every week, here on the Tube.
Hi Mark. Nice work! I would not sell those 2-strokes short! Those are simple and durable engines. And the Japanese 2-strokes were beautifully engineered. Long lasting and easy to work on.
From what I read, new 2-strokes are illegal but older ones are ''grandfathered'' in.
@@DWilliams-ce8nbthe cost of fuel for the 2 stroke motors may exceed 4x that of the 4... I think you are right to buy new or low hour yamahas... they sip fuel and are quite easy to find parts because mercury is the same motor!
@@saylaveenadmearedead Maybe if pre-mixed? But I've always used regular gas, then I pour in a measured amount of oil. Negligible difference in fuel cost in my experience. And a pair of new Yamaha 9.9's is easily in the 6 to 7 thousand dollar range. The one's he has cost ZERO
why not electric?
Port in - Port out use of outboards is the main use anyway…
Have you discovered that vinegar breaks down uncured epoxy? It makes dealing with sticky epoxy easier.
I try to keep epoxy off my skin. I use vinegar for cleaning all my hand tools and after contact with the vinegar, I give the tools a wipe with whatever I have like WD40, PB Blaster, or light oil.
Works for cleaning your gloved hands so I use the disposable gloves longer reducing my waste.
The hinged motor mount is a good idea but you might want to try using 4 bars that would lower the engines level and raise them up level. Little bit of engineering.
I agree, much stouter and will have much less drag
Hey Mark. Looks like you are getting there. My tip for the old, rough chisels you are not too worried about, sharpen them with a belt sander. It is very fast and easy and makes them very sharp. You can touch them up on a stone then if you feel the need, but I don't bother and they work great. Cheers.
It’s years since I sharpened a chisel or plain but from what I remember it’s important to turn the blade over and place it flat on the block move in circular motion (use oil) to get a sharp edge. If you just do the bevel you can get a lip on the other side. Like shortening a kitchen knife you need to do both sides. You should be able to cut a bit of paper easily. Could be remembering wrong but thought it worth a mention.
spot on, your memory is correct.
Each tool has two angles the taper and the cutting edge.... Chisels and planes
may have different angles for both.
The other thing with tools like planes is the foot or bed of the plane needs to be smooth to allow it to slide over the wood ...
You tend to plain with the grain if possible to reduce lifting and jamming of the blade.
Plywood being wood at 90deg angles each layer needs to be good quality dry and held tight..the plane has to be seriously sharp.
A belt sander is sometimes the only way to smooth rough cut plywood edges Mark. 🧙♂️🇬🇧
When you're using epoxy and screws, it can help to dry-fit the screws before you apply the glue. That way you're not trying to make holes when the ply is sliding around on wet glue. Also you can put screws part-way through the plywood and use them to help align the plywood into their holes.
If you search up "microscope" and what makes a knife sharp, it's the opposite of what we usually assume. When you sharpen a knife what you're actually doing is creating a micro serration in the metal, not making it more smooth. It's a weirdly interesting consept and helps to understand what makes something sharp. Look it up and enjoy the "aaaaaah" moment.
Perch make good eating. That big one would be a nice meal. They are from the Bass family.
The plainer on the edge of the oly was brutal to watch bit that's how you learn! Gluing different grits of wet sand sandpaper to a smooth surface, heavy to fine works great to get chips out chisels and doesn't take as much effort as it sounds. 👍 keep up the great work!
Will be nice to see your mom and dad. They are as good as gold.
The deck of my own boat is plywood core, and I had some rot. I did what you are doing for the major parts, but if you drill through for a new fitting, the problem can come back; this is what I did. Buy a step drill; a step drill is a cone-shaped drill; step drill each hole from both sides so there is a wider flared hole with a flare from both sides, then mix epoxy and add cabasil thickener; wear a dust mask when handling Cabisil is silica and it can damage your lungs, fill the holes with the mixed cabasil and epoxy, you will have to put tape over the fill because it will run and fall out.
When it goes off the sand surface, you may have to refill, and then you redrill the hole for the fitting. Get a big counter sink drill bit and put an aflare to the hole from the outside; this is very important for two reasons: it creates a well for the sealant around the bolt, and it will stop work hardening and cracking of the bolt when the bolt comes under load, do not use other fillers they are not strong enough some people also add cut up chop strand I would avoid that because chop strand has styrene added to make bind and styrene is not compatible with epoxies.do this, and you will have a very dry boat
Hi Mark, well done so far. Changing your outboards for Yamaha would be the way forward. The ones to go for are the high thrust version FT9.9LEL or LEX(long or extra long shaft) much less thirsty than the 2 stroke and awesome motors. Nothing compares to them! I am on my second pair for my 30 year old Woods design 35ft cat. I tried mercury 9.9 with suposedly hi thrust props and they barely moved the boat!
advice:do not use your fancy stones for cheap chisels , use wet-dry sand paper on a piece of glass, use the whole surface of the stones to reduce need for honning, unle$$ you are loaded and do not give a $hoot.
THUMB UP people
Only sharpening rule you need when it comes to chisels or old plate irons to start: sharpening is better than not sharpening. Leave all the technique and finesse for when youre regularly doing fine finish work. Fantastic work all around. Always look forward to seeing a new post.
Hi!
I will continue to watch all your coverage.
What you are doing is great. You create value.
Your ship is more and more alive, and its sister ship is more and more dying.
Your thinking is also in place.
You compacted the chain plate bases nicely.
On the other hand, fasten the chain plates to the cross-supporting bulkhead, very firmly. Keep it up. I listen and praise you.
Some glass fiber over your inner skin inserts would give a bit of tensile strength to your repairs. Im guessing both inner and outer skins are structural i.e. they give strength in tension as well as compression.
Seems like a good plan. Extra tabbing to that bulkhead as well?
Anyone else have impromptu seat dancing to the music? Just me? Ooops :) Great video Mark as always... nice to see good steady progress!
Hello Mark, here is a tip on removing epoxy that will make your work alot faster and easier: Soften the hard epoxxy with a heat gun, then scraping it off is a breeze. I was thinking of elaborating on this but I just don't want to suck the joy out of it. It's much better than chiseling it out. (btw I have 25 years exxperience with West System epoxies)
Right!! And sanding is a fools punishment.... but many a u tuber sands all that extra epoxy off .
@@saylaveenadmearedead Not only it is a punishment but nowadays you could also call it a capital sin: 15 seconds of sanding will produce zillions of microplastic particles. No really, not kiddin. I work with plastics and wet sanding is the way to go. I use a shallow water dish, then let it evaporate and dump the plastic particles in a large coffee can. All extra epoxy that did not get used go in the can to encapsulate the plastic dust.
Fibreglass over your new chainplate strengthening into that bulkhead that is in between the chainplates, this will help distribute the rig loads. The final small bevel on your chisel is achieved by having less blade protruding from the jig.
Yes, you learn that by reading the instructions that come with the jig.
hahahahahaha@@loloaqici82qb4ipp
For your "bash it out" chisels, best thing is to get a piece of glass and some wet/dry sand paper of about 400 grit and just do the flat side of the chisel. This will keep it in good condition for rough work without worrying about keeping the bevel angle correct (and save your wet stone for the fine chisel).
Wet stone because oil or water for the lubricant... I use simple green even on my diamond sharpening stones.... they last longer and congratulations on your new chisel set! There are true craftsmen in that country and beautiful tools are a lifetime treasure but of course your dad has taught you that too...
You could do with a grinding wheel for those chisels, to get the notches out.
As fellow adventurers, we're thrilled to follow your exciting journey and wish you well with the completion of your cat. Here's to new horizons!
I'm so glad you didn't buy that boat in costa Rica, everyday would have been such a struggle. The Netherlands is where you were meant to be and so easy for your folks to come visit. Week by week you are making good progress
I said that, I said that putting a few layers of gloves on when working and you can remove one without stopping work to have a clean set…
Look mum I’m famous 😂😂
ahaha :D
Dear Wildling Sailing.
👍👌👏 All the repairs you did are looking really, really sturdy. Congratulations, 🎉 well done. I'm pretty sure that you will never ever have problems with the chain plates. I'm eagerly looking forward to watch how the outboard motors will be put on. I'm also looking forward to see your parents again. They're great boat people and very supportive. Congrats for having such parents. By the way: The boating community is really, really awesome. Nearly everyone is supportive and friendly. Congrats again for being a member of this community. 2) The multi tools with cords are much shorter, lighter and easier to handle. There is also a tool existing called electric scraper/chisel (not oscillating!). Something like this would be very useful/helpful.
3) The Mahi in almost the same colour than your cat, was really sad to see. This boat seems rotten to death, it's a shame.
Thanks a lot for making explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards, luck and especially health to all involved people.
Really sad to see that Pahi slowly falling into ruin! Whoever built her did a serious investment with all those stainless steel fittings! And going at the rot on your boat you seem to be very thorough with finding and ridding the structure of it! A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. I really enjoy following the work that you're doing on Mahi!
Hi Mark! Just wanna let you know I enjoy the process as you're restoring the boat! One thing popped into my mind as an earlier safety delegate; when working in small compact places with limited ventilation, make sure to use a face mask that has a filter rated/designed to protect against the chemical evaporat. The different products have data sheets available online with recommended mask filter & p.p.e.. With the correct filter you should not smell the chemicals, at short term one might feel unwell but at long term one could develop chronical illness.
Keep up the good work
Regards, Ole 🙂
Look at Tohatsu 4 stroke long shaft. They do a 25" shaft length that may be good for you. Good reputation and economical.
Good morning from Christchurch New Zealand 🇳🇿!
Wow your skills just keep improving Mark. She's really coming together now
Making progress
Good idea about the motors…..good job so far….
Things are looking good. Little by little you are getting projects completed. Great work. 😁
Chisel sharpening…
You need to flatten the back as well sorry if you are doing that but it didn’t show in video
Happy honing dude!
I agree with the last comment, use a IR camera to identify cold spots, these will be the wet core parts. Heat the inside of your boat, on a cold day, and look from the inside, it will be very obvious where the wet core is.
Funny thingies you talk about fish this is story this woman was so fed up with her hustbond was always out fishing so we put a big pond in the back garden filled it with fish so she's now where to find him😂😂😂,that fish will look good on a plate
That catamaran could use a nice custom on the main deck.. Good JOB
She is coming along quite nicely!!!!
Looking good mate! I like what you did with the music in this video. Chill vibes all over! See you next week!
You are doing great work. I've seen so called self proclaimed carpenters do worse . Keep the videos coming
You know your fish mark ..! 😜But the second perch was a nice size .. spinning always good fun .. sail around the UK would be a good tester and only after a few single days just to check water tightness and everything secure .. is it what you call " SHIP SHAPE "..looking forward to your next vlog and make sure mom cracks a bottle of fizz..! Too drink that is.. not to wet the boat yet 🥂✌️🙏🇬🇧
Oh, I forgot, you asked about the right way to sharpen a chisel...??? Your beautiful Bahco chisels have it right. There is the primary bevel, and then the cutting bevel which is more steep, and only on the 1.5 to 2.0mm of the very edge of the blade.
Using the 'blade guide' you have been using is a good way to control the bevels, but you should be aware that you will soon develop a hollow in the centre of the stone. It's best to build a 'box' to contain the stone which is **exactly** the same size as the stone, so the top edge of the sides of the box are flush with the stone, then your guide can roll past the edge of the stone, and widen the area of the stone you are actually using.
Making this box used to be one of an apprentice carpenter's first test jobs. I still have mine, made over 50 years ago as a First Year Apprentice carpenter.
Another point to make is that leaving the chips in the edge, as you showed in the video, is not good for the blade, but is sort of 'okay' on 'bashing' chisels.
It's good to have two sets. One for bashing, and one for fine joinery. NEVER use the Bahco chisels on hard epoxy.
The general rule of thumb is that chisels with straight side edges are for bashing, and those with the factory bevel on three sides (i.e. what's called a 'bevelled edge chisel") are for fine joinery, and only light hitting with a wooden mallet.
What we used to do with the chisels once damaged (chips, gouges in edge) was to grind the edge till we got rid of them. Like literally just push the edge of the chisel straight into the grinding wheel on a rotary grinder. Then flip the chisel and use the grinder to back off the main bevel, and only use the sharpening stone for the final bevel. This provides for a very slight 'hollow' in the primary bevel, which aids the peeling off of the shavings, making them curl more readily. be very carefuyl not to do too much pressure onthe grinder, and always dip it in a can of water every few seconds to dissipate the heat. If you get 'blueing' on the chisel blade it means you've likely lost the 'temper' built into the steel and so it won't hold an edge very well.
From memory the bevels were 25deg and 30deg respectively, but don't quote me. These days I just do it by eye.
The other trick is that what you are doing while sharpening is building up (creating) a 'burr' on the back face of the blade edge. It is removing this 'burr' that 'sharpens' the edge.
The trick to removing the burr is to push the chisel dead flat on its back along the stone **sideways** - so the blade is at 90 deg to the stone, so the sharp edge is running north-south along the longitudinal length of the stone.
It's tricky to keep the back of the blade flat while doing this, takes some practice, but this is the correct way to sharpen a chisel or plane blade.
Also, while on the subject of planes, you were struggling with the hand plane to plane the edge of a piece of 6mm ply...???
Either the plane was too blunt, OR you had too much of the iron poking out, OR the ply was wobbling around too much making life too difficult. Or probably a combination of the above.
Often, with fine edges like ply, it's better to clamp a piece of 2 x 1 to the edge to give the base of the plane something to slide along, and provides you with a clear idea of how much you need to plane off. And as it's easy to see what's left, you don't tend to plane off too much in one spot.
It's also a good idea to use a couple of short pieces of scrap either side of the sheet clamped together to stop that 'bucking', and ideally to clamp the job to something solid so you can use the plane in a standard horizontal fashion, not on it's side as you were which is VERY difficult to control and keep the edge straight and square.
Hope that helps!!
Cheers
Mark in Oz
Good move to get new engines. I'd be worried about the old 2 stroke ones.
If they work and start fine keep them they are much easier to repair anywhere in the world and much lighter than 4 stroke which is critical on any multihull but also to pull up to the bridge deck.
You may have a point with the weight but those things only just ran even after being shipped back to the UK and gone over. The age alone might become an issue. I know for sure what I'd rather have.. a couple of 15hp 4 stoke outboards that 2 80s version 2 strokes. Keep in mind .. he's going to be offshore. Jus a thought. @@lebellep
You don’t want chipped blades on your chissels and planes, even those for the rough work should be sharp. If you’ve got nothing else, use your angle grinder to bring the cutting edge back to straight and 90°. Use water to cool the blade, otherwise it will lose it hardness. Coarse to fine sandpaper on a flat surface can then be used for the bevel. Good enough for most applications. And last your stone to get it really sharp for the fine work.
on the pahi 31 the plans show the inner shrouds going to the inside wall of the cabin, but I moved mine to the outer wall, so that I could have a tent that covered the whole deck without needing a hole to go around the inner stay. I also made the inners running stays so that they can be released to let the mainsail out when going down wind. Love the double glove technique!
Cool editing and music.
Glad to see you’re sticking with your attention to detail mate. You are getting there even if it seems to you it’s taking forever. Not too far off now, wish I could help as waterproofing is my thing. Soon be watching you tacking down the coast of Greece.
???
2 mins in and i already see a problem. You need a low angle block plane for plywood edge grain. Jack plane blade needs to be taken well back so it is just kissing, the cutting angle is all wrong. I know you are doing the best you can with what you got..... good job on the bogging and patching.
appreciate the advice, mate
Yeah always wind the blade way back and lower the blade onto the wood edge as you push. The poster is correct though, you want a lower angled blade for ply edge.
Yup we call them thumb planes and are really small and smart for plywood planing... cheap too. Maybe $8 +/-
Chisels have a double angle/bevel to allow a bit more strength at the tip and make them quicker to resharpen (touch up) on the stone. when your minor bevel gets too big you resharpen the major bevel and start again. To get a very sharp edge strop it just a bit either on a leather strop or on a polishing wheel/mop. Then you will be able to shave the hair off the back of your hand 😊
thanks
I'm pleased your looking for new engine's. I think them old 2 engine's would eventually cause you problems. You will be always working on them. Your boat is starting to look fantastic. Can't wait until next Friday for your next video. Keep up the good work. I'm looking forward to you sailing again.
NICE TO SEE OTHER BOATS. YOURS IS IN BETTER HANDS AND GETTING THE TLC IT NEEDS TO SAIL.
I would love to be able to do a project like this full time. Just don't know how I could ever do such a thing with daily expenses, a job and family to support. You are living the dream.
Mahti is coming oņ nicely it is also nice to see you taking time off to relax with friends that other boat you looked at like yours was a lot of work yours is coming on nicely looking forward to seeing mum and dad hopefully next time good luck see you next time 😊😊
I am so happy you finally sharped the plane iron.
Starting to come together mark. I agree the chain plates should have some reinforcement
Great progress Mark. The Pahi 42 you saw, the stays with the lashings at the stern will be running back stays. You only have the windward one tensioned to help tension the forestay and stop sag of the forestay. The other running back stay goes forward behind the boom and mainsail. Have to careful not to crash gybe which could cause the boom to hit the windward runner and bring the mast down. I would say the rig on the Pahi is not highly loaded, you have a very wide aground base so I think what you are doing with the chain plates looks good. Keep at it and look forward to next week as it’s always good to see your parents helping out. Andy UK
Wow the world's first twin hulled submarine 🤔🤣 Sorry Mark - couldn't resist 😋
Great work Mark if you ever come to Edgbaston Reservoir I have a free mooring for you.
Hi Mark, some years back I got a small portable vice, it has clamps to attach it to tables etc., I’ve had a quick look on the web and there still seems to be a variety of these around and not too expensive. I’m sure one for use inside on rainy days might make things a little safer and easier when you get the plane out now and into the future 😀
Take a look At tally ho Leo did a video on sharpening you will also see some of the best craftsmanship in the world! Working on a boat you want to sail around the world it’s important that the repairs you do are best practice as your life may depend on them !
This was a great film good to see outside the boat as well sharpening anything is an art best learnt from mistakes made.
😀Love you boat, and se you work, you er brilliant, Denmark
You can flip the blade over on the flush cut tool, but you are right about it being aggressive. Double gloving is handy. Pros sometimes get those thin white cotton undergloves to wear under looser latex, rubber or nitrile to handle all the sweating. It does make you sympathize with the astronauts though.
WBP ply (exterior grade) in the UK uses the same glues as the stuff that’s stamped BS1088 marine ply. Historically the only difference was the quality of the individual veneers & of course, the vastly different price tags!! If building to Lloyds 100A1 standards you’d have to use the BS1088, which in most cases is a bit OTT. If memory serves, Pete & Annie Hill (of Voyaging on a small income fame) built ‘Badger’ entirely from sheathed exterior ply & put many thousands of miles under her keel.
Keep up the great work & keep living the dream!!!
Dang good filling job , sorted ! All that paste :-)
Yeah the bevel is there so you can quickly sharpen the chisel. (less material to remove). After a while, you sharpen the blade fully and reinstate the bevel. It's as important to flatten the bottom of your blades and chisels before working on the main edge. There's plenty of guides out there.
Even your new bahco chisels should be flattened on the bottom (just to check) and honed a little, they don't come out that sharp from new.
Always enjoy watching you now, it's great to see you doing the grind. One job at a time.
I hope your dad sees that video showing the lifting frame for your two outboards. that was slick. just need to come up with a little electric winch to lift and lower them...
Keep up the good work.
With a light touch you with a belt sander can give your old Stanley's a hollow grind then with the jig give them a really sharp edge. Cheers from Northern California!!!
💡 it's your boat and life that WILL depend on the repairs in question.
So I say
Thank you for the music, the songs I'm singing
Thanks for all the joy they're bringing
Who can live without it? I ask in all honesty
What would life be?
Without a song or a dance, what are we?
So I say thank you for the music
For giving it to meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!
Keep Grinding away Mark, next spring you will be killing it with sailing Vlogs! Use this time to get it done right, or close to right! I know brother it’s hard on a tight budget! I did a lot of what you’re doing as a young guy with a tight budget and a old monohaul boat! It is what it is as long as it will get you there safely!!!! ✌️✌️✌️
Hi Mark,
We did love to see how precisely you are restoring Mahi. Your parents will be very proud when they see the progress you’ve made. It also was interesting to see a similar catamaran like yours and we think yours was in a better condition. Great that you find our country beautiful. Willeke and I look forward to your next vlog wishing you lots of success with the rest of the refit and send you love
Excellent work Mark! I love seeing all the people you meet along the way. Also, I'm very happy your folks are coming, love them to pieces!
Reliable motors are key, but they come at a price. I would not cut corners. Think of all the headache you had on the other boat rebuilding the motor.
Living the dream! And soon enough you will be sailing to the Carribean and dancing to the unique rhythm of your own creativity...
If Dan has a channel I'll look forward to watching any vids of repairs he posts.
just so you know, when using a wetstone like that to sharpen anything, its best to try to use the entire surface somewhat evenly, as well as only sharpening the edge in one direction. The easiest way to do that is to keep it on the stone like you do, but only apply pressure when moving away from the blades edge.
Also, try to use all the surface area of the stone or you will wear a groove in the middle and then it becomes useless.
And when you sharpen the new one only sharpen the beveled edge on the end
Actually, there has been a lot of tests and surveys about whether to go one way or both when sharpening, filing, etc
The trials tell us - it doesn’t make any difference to the results 🤷🏽♂️
Only sharpen the bevel and use the whole sharpener surface, only apply pressure on the away stroke. Your resident Chef advisor (retired) 😂 your doing a grand job ✊🏻🏴
@@MiQBohlin isn't it well documented that filing (like sawing) on the return side of the tooth dulls the tooth quicker, which is the reason for releasing pressure on the return stroke? (Sorry it's not directly relevant to sharpening on a wet stone)
Love watching your progress especially as we have kept a boat in the Netherlands for the last three years. Would you please tell me how you have overcome the 90 day rule to stay in the Netherlands? We keep a boat in Sneek and would love to stay longer but don't know how?
I recall that he became a French citizen last year... hence different visas
Living the dream, only topped by your own sea side land with your own jetty!❤ always dreamed of fishing from my back garden, 50 now, chances slim. Love to see the progress you're making, all the luck in the world to you bud👍
Old chisels get sharpened very quickly with a grinder me old fruit. No point in messing about. Grinder 5 seconds she is back in the game. Best chisels get the stone. 😉
Love what you're doing, I just have a slight request or advice. When you were talking about the Bermuda rig at 20:20, it would have been nice for you to show a photo of Bermuda rigged sailboat so we can have a visual example. Don't get me wrong I love your channel but adding little extras like that make a big difference I know editing is a pain in the ass so I understand
Yes, yours in much better shape than the other one!
Doing a great job Mark, still watching from Ontario Canada. Two thumbs way up, take care.👍👍
Really good work Mark. I think at this point you are skilled and/or have reasonable skills in many areas. The chain plate repairs look solid. I would still put a solid wood vertical member, reasonably wide, on the inside.
I'm glad you're going to spend some money on 4 stroke motors. I know it'll reassure you and your folks more, as it will for those who follow you, especially crossing oceans.
I'm again so impressed with the the condition of Mahi despite sitting in weather the mud for, what, 12 years.
I know there are issues, many repaired, more to come, but Mahi was so well build and remarkably preserved that the deeper you go the more convinced I am it was a great buy.
And you get the boat of your dreams.
Cheers from Vancouver, Canada
Keep going Mark
Enjoy your channel
From the States
Ohio
OFR330
Old farts drag racing
You’re a beast
“Doing it your way”
Very appropriate Calipso music. Your Mahi is taking shape more and more. Wow 7 months.
Chain plates can be an inverted T shape to spread the load better.
Get a cheap stationary (bench) belt sander. That will save you loads of time and effort sharpening blades. Get a belt wide enough to sharpen your plane blades. 120 grit works well but 240 grit will take longer but give even sharper blades. Don’t let the blades get too hot but it will only take seconds to sharpen a blade this way so that’s not usually a big problem. When you get a burr on the edge that means it is sharp. Finish it off with a strop or run the edge across the grain on some wood to take off the burr. (Otautahi, NZ)
Great video Mark. One thing that’s critical when sharpening a chisel is flatting the back off first. You’ll find you end up with a much sharper and product. Just need to flat the last half inch or so
Make sure and sail out to Trinidad … home of calypso!!!!
Yes you need that bevel. Two angles used. The bevel angle is the sacrafishal angle and is 45mor 35 degrees.
Keep it up !!
thank you for sharing! the Mahi is looking fantastic!