Rigging My 12 Meter Ocean Boat With Dyneema (& No Experience)
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- Опубликовано: 27 июн 2024
- I'm also doing some shoddy stuff to my mast too.
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⛵️⛵️⛵️Wow - SO technical!!!....So impressed with all the care you're taking with everything Mark!...Granny is amazed & so proud of you,,,as our we!!!!....Watching & listening again with my ear phones - Yes, your Dad is driving!!!....30 more sleeps 💤 & can't blinking wait...Love, as always....🌿🌈Mum!🌈🌿 PS...You're way past the "Ugly Ducking" stage now....Mahi the Swan here we come - yeh⛵️🙏⛵️👌⛵️PS2...Don't worry about the mess....I LOOOVE mess😂😂😂😂
Impressive young man you’ve got here
We look forward to you and those marigolds!
Did anyone else read that comment in her voice? 😂
What an amazing Mum you are (and Dad) Mark must be really proud too. As an old, Irish, retired Ship’s captain now living in Australia, I’ve grown to love you guys and our weekly Vlogs. Feel like I’m part of the family now. Keep Em Coming.
❤☘️
He’s doing you proud ❤
like my old dad used to say, nobody's born an expert, it only comes with experience
Man, all of RUclips is behind this cat.
I counted over a hundred patreon, and over twenty Kofi contributors.
Hell yeah, Mark.
Hell, yeah.
I say it every week.
Best series on the Tube.
Amen to all that, we love you Mark; great music btw! ❤🍾🎹
@@richardschaefer3889 It’s well deserved, Mark brings a new perspective to his generation…
Your building expertise is growing so quickly! I used to often cringe at some of your patch jobs, but these days every job you do is being done so professionally!!!
Sandwich 2 or 3 layers of American tape under any inox hardware and aluminum and then exacto knife the borders, it will isolate and last longer than tef-gel
I would only tapper the last third length of dyneema....not the full length....otherwise you are not getting the friction of 72 lengths
Speed up larger drill, reduce pressure, hold tight and let the drill cut its way
Punch the broken cobalt bit and break it into pieces. Wear eye protection.
Cutting inox with a thin inox grinder disc is much easier than the hack saw. Use good gloves and glasses.
Chamfer and round grind all edges .
Good job Mark
Great advice, take note Mark...
Good advice 👍
What is "American tape" please?
Greytape...Nashua tape or similar
@@TheGolopablo Duct tape?
I’ve been watching since episode 1 and am amazed with ur progress in becoming an proper repairman and taking real pride in what ur achieving weldone and we can see the light at the end of the tunnel .
Loved the welding pun!
Parley. The New Zealand guy who rescued a hurricane damaged boat had a great couple of video going through rigging and putting up the main mast. How to create the cables you were struggling with. (Very hard to do). Hope you have seen the videos. You really have taken on a project. So ambitious. Well done
His handle is @ParlayRevival. Really great guy. Super helpful.
@ParlayRevival. Is his handle. He is super helpful and friendly. He would have great advice for you
Parlay, not parley.
The channel is www.youtube.com/@ParlayRevival
Except that was all stainless not dyneema. And paid by sponsors for that matter.
“Drilling holes in important things is no fun” 😂
Unless you are Sam Holmes 🤣
Go with the single 8mm piece. Saves time and it will be just as strong.
20 years in the Navy. Never saw the Dyreema back then. 3 strand sisal or similar. You are a man that does lots with little.
Don't let your lack of boat building experience slow you down! The first person who got tired of getting soaked when he rode a log across the river and decided to hollow it out and make a 'boat', had no experience either. And here we are with wooden Cats and aluminum masts. You have the advantage of centuries of other boat builders experience being available on the Web... ✌🧔🏻♀⛵
"I don't know what I'm doing, but I'm doing it anyway". I like that. As for the work space, my motto has always been: "a place for everything and everything all over the place". But like yourself, I know where everything is.
This is SO true Dylan 🤗⛵️🤗
G'day Mark ,
Great to see more progress ,as always.
My only concern is with the purchase of SECOND HAND PARTS for an ocean going yacht .
Take them off & keep them for spares......
Buy NEW OEM PARTS for the engines ,,,as they are your "number one" piece of kit .
Your engines not only need to be reliable,,, they are your " GO TO" in emergencies,,or in a storm ,for docking, ect.
The extra dollars / pounds invested in your safety / reliability is essential as your very life could depend on this decision..
Respect....!
Sound advice for a boat about to embark on ocean passages.
Mark regularly reminds us however, that his priority is to get the boat ready for enjoying some sailing in the summer, which means some short time solutions for now.
Next winter he will work on the "permanent" installations and repairs, fore-armed with the knowledge and experience gained from all of these "temporary" fixes.
Only then will he be ready to cross oceans, with the benefit of his experience sailing Mahi, that he will have already gained from his onshore sailing and short passages in the summer.
With twin engines, the failure of a cheaper after-market part in one of them shouldn't be a problem in local waters.
Lower your drill speed if using cobalt drills , some steels work harden at high speed , start slow and go slow to use cobalt drills . Also drill for a bit then stop let things cool and then restart as many times as it takes , let the drill do the cutting and don’t force or rush it!
What he said. slow drill speed is key... you can look up speeds and feed with google. Always a surprise when drilling metal. A portable drill press or a jig for your drill can make things a lot more pleasant if you have a lot of holes to drill.
I have made a career from these exact instructions. They are not wrong.
Bigger the bit slower the speed as a general rule.
...and maybe some cutting paste?
Tere comes a time in every restoration/renovation, when you realise that your most half arsed efforts are a 100% improvement on your predecessor..
Enjoy it.
You don’t need shackles. Use your triangular plates, drill them for 10mm Clevis pin and attach shroud directly to the top plate with clevis pin through eye thimble. You don’t need a shackle on lower end either, just a shackle on chain plate and lash through shackle and eye thimble. Shackles in standing rigging introduce additional points of wear, strain and failure without providing any advantage.
You are approaching those bends with the wrong technique, and it is spreading the load through the length of the piece, that's why they are forming in a rounded arc. Google "Vise sheet metal brake". They are pretty inexpensive (also, relatively easy to make if you want to DIY), and it will help you make crisp angles in the small pieces of thinner material that you are working with. As a bonus, it will keep you from tearing your vise off your little work table. lol
I love watching the progress, keep living the dream.
Never knew they existed. What a great invention.
There's a simple trick that works magic when drilling large holes in thin plate. After drilling the pilot hole, cut a small square piece of cloth, fold in half twice (4 layers thick) and put it between the pilot hole and the tip of the big drill bit and drill the larger hole through the cloth. Let the cloth spin with the bit.
This will result in amazing round holes in thin materials!
Some years ago I restored a 28ft Wharram Tanenui. The mast was converted to a soft luff wing sail (Wharram design). The stainless steel parts that attached onto the mast where coated in green zinc chromate paste. This gives a barrier between the aluminium and the stainless steel. I also used Dyneema - great stuff, and learnt the art of splicing. On a later catamaran I came across Barton Marine high load eyes. A very useful alternative to a block. Enjoy watching your videos.
My wife is impressed how you are turning what she called two canoes bolted together into a seagoing boat. Keep on welding
i watch many things being built on RUclips, Ferrari's, Maclaren's, planes, etc.. and this project would have to be my fave!
I can’t imagine doing all the work you do outdoors and without a solid workbench, drill press, metal bender or even protection from the rain! Yet you are producing great components! I admire your patience and endurance! Well done!
Nobody is born as a specialist-this always takes time and experiences. I must admit that your videos get less and less painful to watch for someone who works with such stuff since decades 👍
I said it last week but I will say it again in case you didn't read it. One of the errors that DIY riggers sometimes make is allowing wiring and / or internal halyards the freedom to swing around in there. As the boat rocks, the clanging and slapping sounds drive people crazy.
Also, if you want a little more civilization treat yourself to a 12V fridge. Some brands can be expensive, but I found a 63qt duel zone for around $400 US and its been running full time for 4 years.
Looking at fridges now 👍 this mast has a polystyrene lining, I think it helps with the sound. That really annoyed me so much on my first boat so I’d be very sad if they make a sound on this one!
My complements on your progress. Both with the boat and your ever increasing skills. Those skills will be with you forever and will serve you well in the future.
PS I went over a year without refrigeration, and when I was finally able to keep beer cold and make ice for drinks, it was life changing. LOL 😅
PS I have been following since the beginning when you were shopping and eventually bought Good Tidings. Your progress as a Sailor and as a craftsman is inspirational.
@@WildlingSailing Good advice about the 12v fridge.
While you are looking at fridges Mark, energy efficiency should be the main consideration. In the "off-grid" power system of a boat, the greener your energy rating label, the better! Buy the most efficient one you can afford.
laughed so hard at u jumping n climbn on that vice..priceless entertainment..u go marc
Two suggestions for all the drilling you have ahead of you. First, when drilling with part on the horizontal,make a little sausage out of butyl or putty and place it as a ring or dam around the punch park for you hole. Fill the circle with cutting oil before drilling. This provides really good lubrication for the drill bit and even a bit of heat dissipation. Really extends drill life and makes the initial hole easier so you can start with a 3 or 4 mm bit. Second, to enlarge the pilot hole, try getting a couple of cobalt step drills and use them very slowly with lubrication. Much faster than twist drills. You will save time and money, but also, its so much easier that the drilling become much more of a pleasure than a dreaded chore.
I can't believe the amount and depth of work you have to go through. These episodes have been a real eye-opener. Bless you and all the people who support you...and of course your lovely parents.
Progress is looking good. Welding does not weaken metal so that will hold well. Try to get as little lateral movement in the shaft of the shackles I suggest adding a washer or spacer as well just to keep lateral movement down to a minimum.
The small things take the most time, but they are super important to do well.
Progress is being made, looking forward to seeing that mask up, that will be a huge milestone and it is so close now.
It's amazing how many skills you aquire when working on your boat. You are technically building this boat from the hull up. That's a lot of education that you have gained. 🤗 Great job ! 🤗⛵👍
Dont forget abrasion covers for key bits of the rig likely to chafe on sails or lines.
Back to the classroom maths of triangles ...Mark 😂🧙🏻♂️🇬🇧
Nice bit of dynema work.
WILDLING FRIDAYS!!!!
ITS BEEN MY GO TO FOR YEARS
I never thought that thick piece of metal would bend. Oh me, of little faith. Fantastic! 😎❤️😎❤️😎🥰🥰🥰
Mark, just a bit of friendly advice, when you drill holes I recommend you clean the swarf off before you rivet the plates onto your mast, bits of metal might get trapped between the plates & mast. Just an observation, you're doing a great job.
You’re getting close Mark keep hanging in there. You got this. I can’t wait until we start sailing.
pythag in any right angle triagle the square of the hypot is equal to the square of other two sides😉😉😉
Get yourself a couple high quality step drills Mark. Worth their weight in gold.
I love the cheesy music (presumably copyright-free stuff?) . It creates an atmosphere that you probably wouldn't have got if you could have used your favourite tracks - I like the randomness of the outcome.
You’ve been working your butt off. You still have a ways to go but you’re so close to leaving that yard. CANT WAIT!!
The original fittings were galvanized instead of stainless to reduce cost. The original trio did not have unlimited funds, and Wharram produced plans with an eye towards reducing the costs for subsequent builders. Rich guys could always replace the galvanized fittings with stainless (and inexpensive interior woods with expensive wood) at their own discretion (or lack of same). As for the triangular tangs, just put the plate in your plasma cutter and let it do the work! LOL
That was the best demonstration of a locking splice in dyneema I have seen. Well explained and clearly illustrated. Thanks Sam
" Steady as she goes ". You are learning so much. Of course, it's trial and error if you haven''t done something before... but you are increasing your skill set. Good luck... and "steady as she goes".
Whilst the mast is down clean the tracks...
BTW a lot of DIY Riggers use soft shackles.
For smaller drill bits see if theres an engineering supply firm that you can order a box of usefull size drill bits from. They tend to be in small boxes of twenty and not a lot more than couple from the retail hardware.
60 years of experience in the hands of a 20 something young man, he’s an old soul
The purists/perfectionists may criticise your techniques but you are building the very best and most valuable component possible into your boat - Knowledge! You will know every part and how the part is made so no matter what happens you will be able to restore/fix it but most of the time you will be enjoying the fruits of your labour and learning. You have come a very long way since you set sail from the UK to France and every cm of the trip has been a life lesson. As we say in NZ - Kia Kaha! (Stay strong)
Open excel and enter a formula that uses trig to calculate the missing stay. Measure and enter the two values you have and it will generate the final length for you. After that it becomes quick and easy.
You are doing a great job. You know this boat will keep u safe, so it will be built strong! Beyond the built, the time you invest in the camera work is outstanding. Between your personal drive and capability to become a a worldly craftsperson you will no doubt live your dreams Mark!🇨🇦
The massive advantage of doing things the way you are, and mostly by yourself teaches you EVERYTHING about your boat! the transformation is epic Mark, over engineer when you can as this will give peace of mind as you sail the worlds oceans, just make sure you take as many spare bits and pieces as possible, you may find you can't source that 6 inches of stainless on that far flung island, or if you can it costs the earth. fair winds and following seas my friend.
Great instruction on the Gimbels! And you were so blessed to get the mast with your purchase. Wow, just the mast is worth the entire cost of the boat.
That's good because the boat was a rotten mess worth almost nothing.
Your tenacity in pursuit of this complex set of goals and objectives is amazing. Good on you!
All looking good, don't be too hard on your self, remember that the man who never made a mistake never made fuck all
Your motto - No day without progress!
Well done and good luck with the project rigging.
There's a light, light
in the darkness of everybody's life says the song and you're seeing it as well as we do. This mast is gonna go up pretty soon, safe and sound. You're an example of stamina and diligence! Bravo
Amazing rigging job Mark! She'll be underway soon.
Go with the single 8mm piece. Saves time and it will be just as strong
👍
@@WildlingSailing Yes, the shackles are the weak links anyway.
Tool and Dye designers people are in high demand, you've mastered several trades with this build, highly technical looks like you got this, kids, learn your math!
I live vicariously through you guys. You live such a care free life.
Worth fitting mast steps while it's down... For a solo sailor, it makes getting up there so much easier! 💙
Excellent work as usual! FYI if you need to rivet more there’s a drill attachment that rivets. (Also one for nut-serts). Usually they’re under $30, sometimes cheaper. Money well spent to avoid ruining your hands.
Galvanized over stainless steel anytime when it comes to your standing rigging. I'm a professional sailor and tugboat captain, I've seen stainless break without a flipping warning, it becomes brittle and shows no metal fatigue, and then BAM it just parts.... Just make sure your shackles are "certified" for the load that they are supposed to handle, keep going man! Doing well ;-)
Mark you forgot to use lube when drilling steel, saves on broken bits. You are doing great, the project is moving along , can't wait to see the sails and mast on Mahi...cheers
Well done Mark, great effort. Can’t wait till you’re mum and dad are back with that little boost they always give you 👏🏻👏🏻
Go Johnny go! you're doing fine, best of luck and happiness, from the owner of the third ever sailing Captain Cook " Pollyanna " from Durban RSA
You're killing it mate! Getting so close and we're all rooting for you. Been a blast watching since the very beginning of this build. Always look forward to the vids every Friday, one of the better parts of the day! Keep it up, my guy, you've got this!
I for one quite like the friday 7pm jazz club... Niiiiiiiiice
Mark, you are an inspiration, for someone so young, you have a great positive outlook. Your days are filled with challenges, learning and more challenges. Fantastic work. Love from Ireland
A bead of silicon under any gaps on the mast plate will stop anything snagging.
Excellent progress & you could if you wanted to definitely make a very good living in the future bringing neglected boats back to life !!!!
Sam, I’m very cautious about critiquing someone else’s work because unless they’re with your hands on it’s really hard to see what’s best and you’re doing a great job. In the last video you made a butt joint in plywood glued with the poxy on a pretty important bulkhead/knee. It’s been concerning me that that could let go at a very bad time when underload. Had you considered taping that butt joint with Glass reinforcing or alternatively through bolting a plate on there to strengthen that I haven’t read to the comments maybe other people mentioned it might’ve been dealt with, very impressed with you and your skills cheers Chris
I like the jazz, for what it's worth. 😂👍🏻❤️
Hey there, Thanks again the video. This advice comes from a welder friend of mine who said to me once “polish your stainless” He said it doesn’t have to be mirror finish but at least sand it from 400 grit to 1000 grit. The polishing helps it so it doesn’t corrode as easily. Welding tangs like you are doing could cause corrosion faster if water gets in between the layers. I am making all new chainplates as well. I have finished 2 out of 6. Keep up the good work.
Chemical "pickling" is also useful, to reinstate the oxide protection lost through welding.
It will all come together and will be worth the struggle when you get the mast stepped!
Go Mark, Your starting to look like a chip off the ol block. Your Dad must be proud
6 months into the new year and you finally got some good weather, keep hanging tuff my friend 💪.
Great seeing you creating your windship. She's awesome and you're learning how to give her what she needs. She's going to take you places in a very special way. Highest Blessings
You need a small low rpm drill press. Makes drilling stainless, painless ! They make portable ones that you can attach hand drill to. Having controlled hand feed makes all the difference
Welding does not weaken your mast connector. Consider to add another small plate to fully support the pin. It can not be strong enough. You'll get there Mark
I want to save you some future trouble with your electrical connections. Dielectric grease (look it up) is a barrier grease you apply on your electrical terminals to help prevent corrosion. I was thinking of your outboard especially. Another thing you can use (I use it on my car battery terminals) is petroleum jelly. My car battery never gets that white crusty powdery corrosion on it's terminals, they always look like new after many years and one-time application. Dielectric grease will not effect the plastics and rubber parts (insulators) but petroleum jelly will over time will soften plastic insulators. I've never had that happen. I use dielectric grease on my ham radio antenna connections and after years in the weather it not only keeps my connections clean, the grease will allow the connections to be easily unscrewed, it's a grease so it also lubricates. It's recommended on spark plug boot terminals to keep them from arcing. Your salt water environment will be very corrosive on expensive electronics. I've watched you from day one and really enjoy your thinking-out-loud sort of narrations, wonderful music selections and humor. Keep up the positives because it keeps me positive and takes me away to another place far far away.
You are doing an amazing work Mark. I am a bit worried how travel will work out for you. You are now a fully evolved pro fabricator, felt this when you guys completed Minkie, sailing with it has put you in a different mode, less engaged to a certain extent, and felt as you found yourself fully again when you started to work on the Wharram.😊 perhaps the boat will always keep your fabricator self busy, underway, and that will make you feel in rythm on the long run. Cant wait to see the mast up.
It's probably worth primer and paint where you might be concerned about galvanic corrosion. If your welds are good and you are using the correct filler rod then it is just as strong as the original material. Grind the messy bits and give it a bit of a rattle can paint job and it will look just as good as anything you might buy. The mast going up and getting sails on her will be another major milestone for you. With a little luck you will be sailing before the fall. Like everyone else I am enjoying watching your adventure. Thanks for the videos.
Yeah, true, welded stainless strength isn't a problem, but its usual to "pickle" the heat affected areas to restore oxidisation protection, and this is important with rough welding to prevent crevice corrosion.
Glad to see you making it to the point of working on the mast.
I'm not a maths person. But I learned a lot by your process of calculating the stay lengths. If I had been doing that job 'blind', I would have hung the Dyneema stays, loose, from the top, jury rigged the mast with some spare rope clamped a couple of metres up, then paid out the stays to the right 'corners' on the topsides... But then, I am a bodger - your skills are way beyond that now! Best wishes from SE London.
Love your episodes. You are getting so much better at this nautical stuff. Can say with expirence that the amount of random stuff that fails on used anything is astounding. Today was a solenoid. No telling what will go next. So start a box of outboard spares. I found that if you have a spare part you will never need it.
dont worry about the workmanship, if it sinks copyright it as the first twin hulled submarine..... great work
I learn something new from your experience every week! Thanks for sharing the journey with us!
A lot of jobs learned you can use later on in the sailing👍
Step drills are your best friend. You really need a drill press of some sort - there must be one in the yard you can get stuff done with. Welding those plates together will work fine but drill all the holes first, bolt them together then tack weld them - remove bolts and take time welding them with everything as clean as pos.
Also get a brush for swarf and avoid wiping things with your hands - at least use a tough glove. Splinters can cause a bad infection taking you out of action, not just for yard work but once out solo sailing. If you brush lion fish barbs off your bench with a bare hand you could end up in serious trouble. Break that habit now!
Getting so close .... mast is looking good .... setting up the mast will be a good episode .... So tall the mast will be .... ❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉😊😊😊 ....
Good on you Mark for taking on and learning complex new skills specially rig planning and dyneema splicing etc. These skills could be a source of income as you cruise around the world.
Thanks so much for doing what you're doing here. I love watching you solve these problems and figure things out every week. It's amazing and inspiring to see you breaking these big projects down piece by piece and knock them out. I will be super excited to see you get out under sail.
Mark no one cares how long it takes we are enjoying the journey, don't put yourself under to much pressure to get sailing it will come, Good job.
Go to a proper sheet metal workshop with your hand sketches to get the Stainless Tangs made. It will cost some money but you get exactly what you want / need. It will be a good job for an apprentice.
Don’t forget to grill the Nuts to put a split pin through.
Hi. The problem with stainless steel is work hardening. When you weld first (or cutting with generated heat) the material becomes much harder. Same when drilling dry and not using cutting oil. It is then near impossible to drill the holes afterward. So drill first then cut and finally weld. I would also recommend double tangs with a clevis pin direct to the thimble where ever possible.
Cheers Peter.
Exactly what I was going to say, once the stainless turns that blue colour it becomes impossibly hard. I driil pilot holes with standard 3.5mm steel drill but continually dip it in cutting oil and never let it get past warm.
Not sure if you've gotten comments about it before. I've come to find when drilling metal using a step bit is quite helpful. Not only does it have multiple sizes but it makes the smallest Bit Stronger. So you don't snap it as easily. It's also nice to be able to clean up the hole right away to get the burrs off with the next size up.
Your doing well Mark keep it up and you will sailing soon 😊😊
I actually like the music, not at all shoddy. Hope it reflects on your mast. Fascinating to watch the splicing.
its always a good day when i watch one of your videos in the morning
Its great to see you make your own boat fittings from stainless and with this skill acquired you will be able to repair your boat in the most remotes location, keep up the good work.
Nice Dyneema demo, thanks , still concerned with temperature swings and the slacking of all the Dyneema in cooler weather and contraction in warm temps… Friend in Bahamas on Tiki46 had these concerns as well… You will handle it all just fine once you are tuned in to the expansion- contraction from temperature swings ,opposite of normal materials I hear .When warm Dyneema shrinks …
Mark, you are doing amazing job, not having a work shop is very difficult, but you keep up the good work 👏👏
Mark, Was in Amsterdam for work this week. Had hoped to get out to meet you but it didn’t work out. Loving, loving, loving your project and your videos. Kudos.
This has been my Friday night since lockdown and I’m so invested in seeing you get this one sailing!