Let’s install XboxHDMI in a 1.0 Xbox!
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- This is my installation guide for the XboxHDMI, the first digital to digital HDMI mod for the original Xbox! This guide applies to Xbox versions 1.0 to 1.5.
This mod involves soldering tiny surface mount components and flex cables, and removal of the Xbox AV connector.
XboxHDMI Mod: makemhz.com/products/xboxhdmi...
Installation Instructions: github.com/MakeMHz/xbox-hdmi/...
FOLLOW ME ON TWITTER - / dubesinhower
JOIN THE DISCORD - / discord
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KSGER Soldering Iron: amzn.to/3b0fzU2
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iFixit Kit: amzn.to/36mfZ4E
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Chapters
00:00 Intro
01:07 Disassemble Case
02:36 Pre Tin Mod
02:54 Solder QSB (1.0 and 1.1 only)
05:58 Test QSB (1.0 and 1.1 only)
06:56 Remove Heatsinks
09:04 Desolder AV Port
11:50 Solder Jumper Wires Under AV Port
13:15 Solder Flex Cable To Video Encoder
16:52 Solder Additional Wires
18:52 Install HDMI Port Cover
20:26 Install XboxHDMI Mod
21:01 Solder Wires To Mod
21:59 Remove Thermal Paste From Heatsinks
22:51 Reinstall Heatsinks
23:54 Move 1v5 Wire
24:40 Thoughts and Results 
Игры
If you want more modding videos, check out my modding playlist! ruclips.net/p/PLxkzgpuDBXWcVSkoI0U-nbEmuxcvHazd2
Excellent video! Was actually swapping my install over and seeing the plastic HDMI piece installed in the metal shield really helped. Definitely agree, hopefully that part can be made easier later on so you don't have to rip EVERYTHING out just for that one little piece. As a tip, taking out the metal shield is much, much easier if you remove the fan and front panel first. Both of which are held in with some plastic tabs.
Yea at some point I got annoyed and ripped it out lol, the Xbox case design is solid but annoying. Thanks for watching!
what usb pen should I put to put to put the softmod program on Xbox Classic
@@dubesinhower what usb pen should I put to put to put the softmod program on Xbox Classic
Only install video that covers the 1.0 QSB/resistor that I've seen. Thanks!
Loving your videos! Keep up the amazing work!
Thanks, appreciate the support!
Great job! Awesome work on the mod.
Thanks for watching my videos!
neat work,i need to polish my soldering first,i'd probably bridge two cars in a parking lot with solder
This is why I love the original Xbox. It's the only console that has gotten so much attention by the community still actively making mods and homebrew applications. I had a 1.4ghz Xbox from N64Freak. Unfortunately I lost it when our house burned down and sadly he's not making them anymore. This would have been the ultimate mod for it.
There's even a group of people bringing back xbox live 1.0. The original xbox is truly something else
Use goo gone gel on the stuck thermal paste plus heat and it wipes right off. Just clean up with IPA afterwards.
Back in February someone in the UK sent me two of these to install but it didn’t arrive until Friday (April). Actually, it still didn’t technically arrive since I had to pick them up from DHL in Atlanta. When I did the package had “Uninhabited/Uninhabitable” written on their door tag and included with the box. No doubt, someone was having trouble reaching me because we were hit with an EF-4 tornado the day your video went up and the roads were impassable for about a week.
Well, I’m glad the delay let me review your take on MakeMHZ install first. Silver lining and all that. Thanks again, Dubesinhower. :)
Wow that’s crazy. Hope you’re doing okay after the tornado!
@@dubesinhower Thanks. It got us pretty good but we were very lucky considering some of our neighbors didn’t have a single wall left standing. :( The car was insured, the house is the landlord’s responsibility, and we lost very little personal property ($1,400 of arcade monitors was probably the worst) despite the house being ruined. I’m supposed to get an MRI in the morning for my arm injury and maybe then I can start recovering. Didn’t wait to resume modding, of course, so you can see me open the basement door to the collapsed balcony in the UltraHDMI HW2 install I uploaded recently. ;)
Awesome work!
Thanks for the support!
Looking good, Dubes!!!
I appreciate it!
Ayyyye Chris!! Doing it big, thats wassup 😎❤💪🏾
Trying to do something on RUclips lol
Awesome to see you making content!
@@dubesinhower likewise!!! If I make anything that touches on "Modding" then I'll make sure to give you a shout out!! My email is in my about on my channel 🖖🏾😎💪🏾
8:00 You are supposed to pull the lever up then remove the clip.
Great video. You've earned a sub. Just a heads up for in the future, Goof Off works better than anything I've found for cleaning off the old thermal paste. I just use IPA to remove any left over residue and save about 30 mins lol.
I'll keep that in mind, thanks for watching!
I use ArctiClean Thermal Material Remover; cuts right through this stuff with ease. It smells citrus like, so I'm guessing any citrus based cleaner would work well.
I cringed at the toilet paper :(
Rest was great, I use coffee filters. No fibers etc left over.
I know this is 3 years later, but for anyone else lol. (I also LOVE that kit for cleaning thermalpaste, I use it all the time. If I don't have it 91% works great for other people that might be reading this)
0:47 - Same. HDMI all the things, I say!
Awesome vid. I'm definitely subscribing. Hey for those jumper wires you installed using old capasitor legs. Would it have been easier to make them into a U and push them through the holes soldering them in place?
Ha, that’s a good idea! A small piece of wire would work too
Had exactly the same thought 😉
This would be a dream.
I would not have the patience to work with mixed solder chemistries to get that flex cable on the video encoder. Kudos.
Haha yea I probably should get some lead free solder to have on hand
@@dubesinhower I hate working with lead-free
You should i got the mg chemicals one off amazon its more expensive than the leaded solder
The 1.0 was made in 2001. There’s a good chance it was not Pb-Free/RoHS. I did a later 1.1 XBOX and it was still shiny after adding leaded solder so I’m pretty sure 1.0 and 1.1 are not lead-free. Mixing lead free with lead solder always results in a dull solder blob for me.
Great video. What do you use for magnification to make soldering the flex cable easier?
I don’t use any magnification. I would like to invest in a nice microscope someday
You should just replace that little fan with a newer passive VGA heatsink if you go back into this system every newer heatsink fits perfect & has more surface area
that 47ohm capacitor is actually a resistor.
Yes I misspoke, good catch!
The emulsifier works better if you drop it right on the paste. I have the same stuff and use it all the time. Use less paste. I place a small bead down the side of the chip, then smear it across with a credit card so that it's just enough to coat the top. Too much paste and it'll act like an insulator, you're just trying to fill in the microscopic cracks in the metals.
Gamers Nexus actually did a whole video and there's basically no such thing as too much paste, sure it will make a mess but there is no loss of heat conductivity.
If I recall the official installation tutorial was able to loosen the lower rf shield and tuck the new bracket into place without removing it.
I would do this mod if I have a tv that dose not have a av port, but do this tutorial at your own risk.
Which tips did you use for your Hakko?
This is the video that I was looking for❤. Is there any chance to turn a classic xbox controller into a Bluetooth controller which links to a Bluetooth plug to the classic xbox, so now having a wireless classic xbox controller? Cuz I have 4 wired classic xbox controllers that don't work but I don't want to throw them to trash, but will be an option upgrade them 🙌🏻
If you bought a Xbox RF Adapter on a 4K TV you would save more money and it looks crisp. I play N64 on a rf adapter and it looks beautiful only thing it needs are the scan lines.
13:00 as far as i know the 4 can be together, they are mode 2 and mode 3 and they need to be grounded
Yep. Also, for reference, the composite cables join 5 & 6 and 9 & 10. I needed to know this in order to test composite video after removing the AV port and I found it nearly impossible to tell without destroying a cable. I avoided that by plugging the cable into a removed port and probing that instead. When I was done, I used mounting tape to hold the port and cable to the back of the XBOX and soldered two jumper wires from inside (ground and CVBS). Of course, the two mode jumpers were set inside the console. Without that: No video.
I’m somewhat surprised that it doesn’t fall back to CVBS when none of the mods jumpers are set. Well, this was a European console. I needed to test video AFTER removing the port since the entire console was untested. That’s because I didn’t have an American 1.0/1.1 power supply when an EF-4 tornado wrecked me good while the console was in transit. I had to start working with no way to fully test it but eventually found my old 1.0 console (missing for over a decade). It was damaged in a 2004 burglary because the thief didn’t know the top was unscrewed when he tried to grab it but the PSU still worked great. Thankfully, the owner had selected a video mode that was compatible with my American TV so I was able to get the software on the TSOP-modded XBOX. :)
Almost tore my gpu out when replacing the thermal paste
Oof, was the old paste glueing the heatsink on? A heat gun is essential I think
Not sure how much difference it makes but I don't mix solder chemistries. I always have leaded and non-leaded to hand.
I'll have to try this next time!
I’m pretty sure it’s all lead solder for a 1.0 XBOX.
question what it is and how you use the sata drive to sata drive conection to IDE conection and what brakect you use to make stay put?
It's just a cheap IDE to SATA adapter from Amazon that's being held by a bracket that I found that I 3D printed. There are a few of those designs online, like this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2875749.
I found 2.5 inch SATA laptop drives were cheaper, so I wanted to get a 2.5 to 3.5 inch hard drive adapter, which I probably spend too much on lol.
This only works if you have a soft modded Xbox.
@@dubesinhower i have a soft modded Xbox but still have the original harddrive and is making clicking noise what that means is near to dead and wnating to look for a replacement, thanks for the help found the parts.
so you dont need the part on the underneath for the if you say have 1.2 to 1.5?, i know this is a step to step thing for a 1.0 xbox
Right, you don't need to do the QSB steps if you don't have a 1.0 or 1.1
I broke that same clip when I was doing a mod on mine
Broke my gpu heat sink clip as well, managed to get it off in one piece and then after I scrubbed and replaced the thermal paste I went to clip it in and it grabbed hold, then I pushed the pressure pin down and then it snapped and flew off my board lol…
RIP
will this work with the original AV output in place? im more curious because id like to be able to test to make sure it works before I get rip of the AV out
Not sure, but I doubt it
@@dubesinhower cool thanks. I gotta do one on a 1.6 and soldering the ribbon to the surface mounted resistors is a pain.
I have 2 xboxes from 2003
Dude, where did you get those rubber feet? They give a nice look to the bottom.
I don’t think he put those there or he would’ve known there was no need to remove them. ;)
I actually did add them, they’re 3D printed feet that I added when I removed the stock rubber pads when I soft modded this Xbox
@@dubesinhower Ah! I like that they give you access to the screws and assumed you removed them to look for other screws. Was the adhesive just not holding up or something? What material did you use? TPU?
@@emmettturner9452 the adhesive was in bad shape. I used PETG for these, but I’d like to get a better extruder for tpu
only us xboxes has the option for 720p and 1080i ! / for pal users you need a softmod or modchip or tsop mod to have the HD rez options
Ah I didn't know that, are they just hidden from the dashboard?
@@dubesinhower locked in the bios microsoft did not want us in europe to have the HD option unlocked back in the day wich makes no sense at all
modchip is highly recommended for this HDMI mod anyways, so might as well do it and use the HDMI patch to patch the kernel for optimum results, tweaks, and fixes.
I don’t get it. HD was standardized worldwide, at least for 60hz… and even a lot of PAL SD stuff was enabling PAL60 back then. Why on Earth would they disable that?!
@@troymeredith521 It’s not always that simple, especially when the console already has a TSOP flash and there is no guide for patching that. OpenXenium adds a lot of expense when you replace a mod chip for no reason, especially considering that the cost of the kit already doubled in the move from XboxHDMI to XboxHD+
Also, this video was from March 26th. That shipment was before the transition to XboxHD+ so it’s no wonder that stuff isn’t in the video. Back then even the official instructions stressed that a modded XBOX was optional.
Bit of feedback: I would love to hear what the acronyms mean like QSB(P?)
I'd like to do a separate definitions video so I don't have to repeat it every video, but yea I should add a title on the screen. Thanks for watching!
Quick solder board
HDMI - High-Definition Multimedia Interface
HD - Hi-Definition
PCB - Printed Circuit Board
AV - Audio Video
How far do we want to take this? ;)
To be a bit more helpful, a Quick Solder Board breaks out to all the connections you need to make to reduce the number of wires or jumpers you might otherwise need to make. For example, the QSB on an XStation for SCPH-500x PU-18 boards breaks out the 20-pin ZIF cable to all but one of the connection points (only needs one wire). Other than the ZIF connector itself, it doesn’t even have any components.
If only i could find one.....
So you can just turn the 5.1 off & it will work fine with everything. on it works with most
Well, it’s technically isn’t optical anymore but it’s the same digital SP/DIF signal. ;)
Thanks for pointing this out though. I always assumed the XBOX had a standard uncompressed stereo mode over optical but now I’m not so sure. I recall it was the same “DDLive!” tech from the old nVidia nForce 2 with MCP-T southbridge (“nVidia SoundForce”).
47ohms capacitor???
How much does a service like this cost? I saw the Kit cost $120 and another youtuber charges $160 for the mod....Is almost $300 worth the mod???? is $160 to install this reasonable???
ANother non 1.6 Video - My stuff looks so different!
RIGHT!? soldering the frikken flex cable in the 1.6 is way more of a pain in the ass since theres no real legs on the components
Looks really difficult although invented a game that you down a shot every time you say isopropyl alcohol!
Haha I say it all the time
Dam
i used goo gone to take it off comes off great
🥃
That is a nope because of the music.
Do you have a microscope
I don’t, I just use my camera
NO THANKS...I'll just use XBOX2HDMI for $30 it just plugs into the component and there is NO MOD necessary...
Understood, have a good day
Hey can i send you my address so you can send me all the stuff you throw out?
Who says I throw anything out lol