its nice to see you recommend different tools to help keep trace damage low. I can confirm not enough heat + too much force will rip pins and traces with them
Thanks for the video. I have to comment that you need to show some shots from further away, as half the time it's very hard to follow where you are spatially - and you never show the final work with it screwed in and connected to the mod chip.
17:54 you change to mg chemicals liquid flux for MULTIPLE joints like these. Paste flux leaves residue after you put heat to them, which means only the first few pins that gets heat are soldered without residue. I cringed a bit when you keep adding flux and making it worse LOL. You gotta clean the old residue if you wanna keep using paste.
Would you by chance have a recommendation on a decent MG Chemicals liquid flux to use? I've used various liquid fluxes in the past and have not cared much for them, so I'm hoping to find something I like. Thanks for the feedback.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs Definitely MG chemicals No-Clean Halogen-Free Flux. Its tricky to use since it evaporates at every 3rd or 4th pin, so you need to keep adding on which you're already doing for paste!
The Ypbpr output is an analog signal which is susceptible to interference. The system converts the digital signal to analog internally and outputs it through the OG port on the back. A HDMI mod (not an adapter) takes the digital signal before it gets converted and pushes it to HDMI. It is the cleanest signal you can get on an Original Xbox.
its nice to see you recommend different tools to help keep trace damage low. I can confirm not enough heat + too much force will rip pins and traces with them
Thanks for the video. I have to comment that you need to show some shots from further away, as half the time it's very hard to follow where you are spatially - and you never show the final work with it screwed in and connected to the mod chip.
Super cool and high skill but I'll stick with a CRT over component/dsub
17:54
you change to mg chemicals liquid flux for MULTIPLE joints like these.
Paste flux leaves residue after you put heat to them, which means only the first few pins that gets heat are soldered without residue.
I cringed a bit when you keep adding flux and making it worse LOL. You gotta clean the old residue if you wanna keep using paste.
Would you by chance have a recommendation on a decent MG Chemicals liquid flux to use? I've used various liquid fluxes in the past and have not cared much for them, so I'm hoping to find something I like. Thanks for the feedback.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs
Definitely MG chemicals No-Clean Halogen-Free Flux.
Its tricky to use since it evaporates at every 3rd or 4th pin, so you need to keep adding on which you're already doing for paste!
Nice work, I'm a fan. How do you like using that microscope, is that the IMX385 V2?
Its pretty nice. Its the IMX290. The auto focus is a godsend. Thanks for watching!
Cpu or gpu fan. Or perhaps a case fan. Which one is it
Man i installed my perfectly and it just dosnt work. No signal 😐
On your website, is the hdmi mod included or is that price strictly for installation?
Just for the install. We do offer both the chip and install if you want to use the custom package option.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs my Xbox is a v1.0 and plan on using project stellar. Would that be available for a custom package option?
Why gloves?
Dumb question, don't they make a HDMI adapter that works with the factory OG Ypbpr output? For like $25?
They do and it works quite well.
The Ypbpr output is an analog signal which is susceptible to interference. The system converts the digital signal to analog internally and outputs it through the OG port on the back.
A HDMI mod (not an adapter) takes the digital signal before it gets converted and pushes it to HDMI. It is the cleanest signal you can get on an Original Xbox.
9:09 asbestos
It is now SAWDER, It is pronounced soulder.
Sauldron is probably best
is is now sawder, huh?