I watched dozens of videos about painting. Your video is way,way best out there. Nicely organized and most important that you explained everything that I'm back to believe that I can do paint job myself. Other channels makes videos overwhelming. Thank you for giving me that confidence.
Thanks for thorough explanation. I still don't know whether I need to put something on bare metal when repairing some rust on the body before I put a filler to protect it. So epoxy would be great but I can't wait a few days before it cures. What's your idea?
Is there a general primer that can do for example on body panels that were salvaged (already painted) but had touch ups with body filler or putty on them? Like would the etch primer be a good generic solution for any panel condition if it's still sanded for adhesion? Thanks
Dave, you mention nozzle tip sizes for Hi-Build ect, but what about tip size for Adhesion Promoter or Sealer as the american's like to call it? thanks mate great vid!
Hi, could you explain more on the wet on wet priming , so you add 30 % reducer to the mix , paint how many coats of primer? ( I'm doing wheel). How long do you wait in-between priming coats?
Any chance you can do a vid of ADDING paint to motorbike plastics? I've a yellow duke (old paint but perfect nick) that i want to add white to using fine line etc. Guess it'd be scotch whole panel, tape and white then clear the whole panel? Just a bit dubious about adding to paint and clear to old...cheers
I went to sand my rear bumper on a 2000 merc mountaineer. It has some kind of epoxy under the primer. Is there some type of primer that will fill the deep lines that the da left. The entire bumper has this on it. It's almost like a gel.
I bought rattle can etch primer for my project to keep it from rusting whilst I finish each panel . Can I use epoxy on top of this . I was going to use 2k epoxy to seal it at the end ? Or should I just use high build over the etch
I was painting ecoat parts, started with sanding then applied sealer, I bumped into the panel, can I sans that area and apply another coat of sealer to that area?
Ppg Australia use to have a 2k system called “cobra” and it had a 2k acid etch primer that was so bloody good, really sucks they phased that system out. It was designed in Australia for Australian climate conditions and a car I painted in that system looked exactly the same as the day I painted it even 6 years later
I'd like to thank you for 2 years I need help with my car that I'm experimenting on I've been to numerous shops spent alot of money on supplies and equipment and I've been told false information or just looked at crazy when they they don't know how to explain properly or bs their info honestly thank you
Hi Dave I have a series landrover - I was thinking of using an epoxy primer etc for this. It’s a full rebuild. What would you suggest be the best process. It’s been a while since I sprayed vehicles . Thanks in anticipation 😁
Thanks Dave, what can you advice can I use epoxy primer or 2K etch primer just my garage, I don't have a spray booth, is it safe to do it or what can you advice to use for bare metal working.
With bare metal repair....can you just reapply epoxy primer to repaired area then 400 grit entire panel ready for paint?....or still need high build primer after??....hope question makes sense
Very informative, thanks for sharing. In regards to high build polyester primer is it critical to wait 10mins or so between coats? Do you risk it not building as well?
Hi Dave thanks for clearing up for me the different primers. There is another primer that they sell here in south africa, which is called a MS primer. So after viewing your video I know the first primer to use in a Restoration project will be the Epoxy primer. If it's not a high build you will use a HS primer. Am I correct so far? So here the MS and HS looks to be similar, MS looks to be s high build and I've seen people put MS primer on panels and leave it for long periods of time without it rusting coming through. I know I need Epoxy primer and Hs primer but the MS is still a mystery to me.
QQ: I paint just wheels. Is epoxy primer the only primer that I'll ever need? And is there a can primer that you'd recommend for quick spot repairs on wheels?
I use epoxy primer for calipers but i don’t sand the epoxy before applying my base, is that fine? I don’t need the calipers to be ultra smooth but I do need good adhesion
Hi there, appreciate your vids very much. Question about spraying solid white (I use a acrylic because it's easier to manage in a home environment). I have primer fillers/surfacers of various light colors, blues mainly, or greys, and I'm wondering if I will get good coverage with my white color coat. I tend to usel multiple light acrylic coats 4-5, then a heavy final coat. Your thoughts on coverage?
Hey pal. Thanks for the video, very informative. I’ve got a project where I want to refresh some scuba cylinders. They are steel and I’m taking them back o bears metal. I have to be careful as I don’t want to obscure any of the stamping in the shoulder of the cylinder as that will mean they can’t be tested anymore and will ruin the cylinders. Im looking to do a gunmetal grey topcoat. I’m thinking the export primer would be the best. Would you agree? Any recommendations greatly appreciated. Cheer. Andy from the UK
Hey Dave. Just discovered your Chanel and really enjoying the content. I have recently purchased a rolling shell that has been sand blasted back to are metal, rust removed and then primed. Is there an easy way to determine what type of primer was used?
Hey Dave, awesome video. I’ve recently just sprayed 2k epoxy primer filler over bare metal that I had sanded with 120 grit and some sanding scratches are showing through. Should I sand with 240 or400 then apply another coat or should bring back to bare metal and start again with 240 ? Cheers, keep the great content coming
Glad to know that the 1k etch can go under the 2k base with clear. That's what I was suggested to buy to paint my motorbike, but from your other videos I interpreted that as being the wrong choice. Also, is there any chance VG Auto paints will start stocking iso free clears? I'd like to be able to use that instead of MS22
@@customspraymods cheers. I didn't mean to suggest I'd ditch my respirator or similar, just had read some things that made me wonder if I could or should seek alternatives.
What primer shall be used in case of a bare metal surface which is slightly rusted and cannot be removed? I was told 2k self etching primer is the best thing here is this true?
G'day Dave, Gav here. Mate, you didn't mention anything about red oxide primer !! I'm doing WW2 vehicles, they all came out with red oxide primer or yellow zinc chromiate primer (which you can't use anymore due to it having toxic chemicals) and then painted in a single pack oil based enamel olive drab paint. I'm having a major issue with my paint not bonding to the red oxide primer. The first top cost paint I used was an acrylic enamel mixed by Dulux Inspirations at Nerang in Queensland....cost me $340 for their "Autosolv" brand custom made. I sprayed that and when it dried it just scratches off. Now the parts I sprayed need to be blasted again.....the red oxide primer applied was an industrial grade primer and done by Neumann's Coatings at Currumbin on the Gold Coast. You can literally scrape the paint off with a key but not take any primer off. Absolute waste of money for thst paint I was then recommended Protec's Camoflauge range Olive Drab, so I switched to Protec's PPG Enamel-Alkyd-DPP paint, which is what they supply to the Australian Defence Force. The primer I'm using is dulux Metalshield Red Oxide Primer out of their rattle cans. The primer has been used on a few hundred parts and ranges from a days drying time to a few years. I sprayed 2 costs out of the 400gm rattle can from Protec onto some parts...it played down nice, dried to a satin which was odd but was told it'll fade and go lustreless in the UV. Let it dry for three weeks and then bumped a part and again.....the bloody paint chipped off !!!! So I went back yesterday with the part thst chipped, scratched checked other parts and they too came off, and showed them photos as well as the part I brought with me and the Dulux primer. Nobody could tell me why the paint failed other than it being the red oxide primer from Dulux. Even after scuffing the primer, which was pretty much useless on cast metal parts, the paint just chips and scrapes off......WHAT THE HELL IS GOONG ON?? All the parts have been wire wheeled or sandblasted back to bare metal, wiped down with either brake cleaner/solvent or wax & grease remover, and then hit with the primer and put in storage ready for paint. It's like this brand of red oxide primer has some form of barrier to it because it seems not even their own Metalshield paints stay on without chipping off. So I have a grey etch primer from Protec to try an experiment with this weekend and have sprayed their olove drab onto the Jeeps body tub, which has the Neumann's primer, and see if it sticks. If it does then I'm assuming the Dulux primer has some weird property to it that stops paint bonding with it. What's your thoughts because Dulix customer service and Protec have no idea why two different types of paint from two different supplies won't bond with two different brands of primers.....the common denominator is thst they're red oxide primers.
@@olivedrabgarage6243 sorry not to sure about red oxide primers. I suppose find a primer that works with the topcoat. Use the recommended primer that's in the data sheets of the topcoat.
Thanks Dave. This was the first of your video's I've watched. I'll be watching a lot more to learn about spray painting. I'm restoring at home a '64 Austin Healey Sprite Mk2A with a lot of rust. I'm progressivey stripping back to bare metal to make repairs and it will be a long time before before its ready for painting. (maybe years!!!!). I intend to do as much of the work myself as I cam. From your video I understand that for a project like this, I should use an epoxy primer to protect the bare metal. Is epoxy primer ok to use in a home garage environment? Also, do any of your videos cover the safety aspect of painting, primarily breathing apparatus for the different types of paints?
No problem. The 2k epoxy is the best and it’s not as harmful as the topcoat 2k but still care should be taken if painting at home. A good spray mask is recommended like a Sundstrom. I’ll go over some safety in the next video. We are currently finishing off an Austin A35 custom painted.
@customspraymods regarding the ep41, as i rub down with wet 600, it smooths primer perfect tho the primar stays somewhat shiny, will that be ok for 2k topcoat to stick to it?
Better off leaving it Un sanded. Then sand it and paint it. Ep41 would last a year or so in weather and longer undercover. If sanded it would still last but sand it again before painting it. 👍
If you’re a back yarder trying to mix 4 to 1 primer always use a 4 to 1 stick not just the mixing tub more accurate with the stick as two much hardener no good not enough really bad
Hello Dave. I thought that you still have to use some type of sealer whether it's etching or epoxy? Aka a primer surfacer before painting before applying your top coat. Like if I have some surface rust on Lets say the inside lower part of a Car Door. So I would have to sand all the rust off, if need be apply any body filler, sand, then apply let's say a 1k or 2 Epoxy primer depending on course on the type of top coat, then a Primer surfacer and Then your top coat. Is this correct? I was also told you can't use body filler over Self etching primer but you can with Epoxy Primer. Last, I was told never user a primer surfacer over bare metal? Thanks again for all of your help
Funny thing I had the Camry video on my computer for about 6 months before I uploaded it. As I was never happy with it. Someone from a forum was asking about resprays so I decided to upload it as it might have helped them.
You make interesting videos but the thing that bugs me the most is when you sand and rub your bare hands over the area. I know why you do it but remember, your hands have skin oil on them (no matter how clean your hands are). I'd suggest getting very low millimeter gloves for that "feel" of the perfect surface. Yes, I know you'll use wax and grease remover but touching and sanding grinds the oil into the area. Otherwise keep up with the very interesting videos. Thank you.
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I watched dozens of videos about painting. Your video is way,way best out there. Nicely organized and most important that you explained everything that I'm back to believe that I can do paint job myself. Other channels makes videos overwhelming. Thank you for giving me that confidence.
Thanks Dave, Finally some OZ content, and clear explanations of the basics. Auto paint products have always been a dark art to me. 👍
Getting ready to do my first painting project. This has been so helpful. Thank you!
Dave. another top video - just as I was debating what to do with my tatty BMW....
Thank you for your tireless vids mate, you are a champion!
Good to see you back. Been a while.....
Great video Dave
I have learnt to repair and spray my motorcycle tanks from watching and learning from your videos
Thanks mate
Awesome well explained video, Ill be placing my order with you guys!
Thanks for thorough explanation. I still don't know whether I need to put something on bare metal when repairing some rust on the body before I put a filler to protect it. So epoxy would be great but I can't wait a few days before it cures. What's your idea?
Excellent vid! Do you have any video on best 2k Clear coats?
Is there a general primer that can do for example on body panels that were salvaged (already painted) but had touch ups with body filler or putty on them?
Like would the etch primer be a good generic solution for any panel condition if it's still sanded for adhesion?
Thanks
Dave, you mention nozzle tip sizes for Hi-Build ect, but what about tip size for Adhesion Promoter or Sealer as the american's like to call it? thanks mate great vid!
What would you recommend to spray on top of polyester what primer is best for final stage before I put down base coat then clear
Hi, could you explain more on the wet on wet priming , so you add 30 % reducer to the mix , paint how many coats of primer? ( I'm doing wheel). How long do you wait in-between priming coats?
Any chance you can do a vid of ADDING paint to motorbike plastics? I've a yellow duke (old paint but perfect nick) that i want to add white to using fine line etc. Guess it'd be scotch whole panel, tape and white then clear the whole panel? Just a bit dubious about adding to paint and clear to old...cheers
I went to sand my rear bumper on a 2000 merc mountaineer. It has some kind of epoxy under the primer. Is there some type of primer that will fill the deep lines that the da left. The entire bumper has this on it. It's almost like a gel.
I bought rattle can etch primer for my project to keep it from rusting whilst I finish each panel . Can I use epoxy on top of this . I was going to use 2k epoxy to seal it at the end ? Or should I just use high build over the etch
8:17 Can you paint straight over the painted surface without priming?
I was painting ecoat parts, started with sanding then applied sealer, I bumped into the panel, can I sans that area and apply another coat of sealer to that area?
Ppg Australia use to have a 2k system called “cobra” and it had a 2k acid etch primer that was so bloody good, really sucks they phased that system out. It was designed in Australia for Australian climate conditions and a car I painted in that system looked exactly the same as the day I painted it even 6 years later
Ever use Tamco DTM 2k 5310 High build?. 1stop shopping no epoxy Build right on top of dtm then seal done...
I'd like to thank you for 2 years I need help with my car that I'm experimenting on I've been to numerous shops spent alot of money on supplies and equipment and I've been told false information or just looked at crazy when they they don't know how to explain properly or bs their info honestly thank you
Hi Dave
I have a series landrover - I was thinking of using an epoxy primer etc for this. It’s a full rebuild. What would you suggest be the best process. It’s been a while since I sprayed vehicles . Thanks in anticipation 😁
Can u paint metallic paint over 2k primer surfacer that was spraying over old sanded paint ?
Thanks Dave, what can you advice can I use epoxy primer or 2K etch primer just my garage, I don't have a spray booth, is it safe to do it or what can you advice to use for bare metal working.
With bare metal repair....can you just reapply epoxy primer to repaired area then 400 grit entire panel ready for paint?....or still need high build primer after??....hope question makes sense
Epoxy isn't a primer, it's a encapsulator. Yes you'll need a primer over the epoxy.
Good content. Curious about the color of primers. Should the top coat color be considered also in choosing the primer?
Very informative, thanks for sharing. In regards to high build polyester primer is it critical to wait 10mins or so between coats? Do you risk it not building as well?
If you put bodyfiller over the epoxy primer, do you have to put another coat of epoxy primer over the top of the filler?
Hi Dave thanks for clearing up for me the different primers. There is another primer that they sell here in south africa, which is called a MS primer. So after viewing your video I know the first primer to use in a Restoration project will be the Epoxy primer. If it's not a high build you will use a HS primer. Am I correct so far? So here the MS and HS looks to be similar, MS looks to be s high build and I've seen people put MS primer on panels and leave it for long periods of time without it rusting coming through. I know I need Epoxy primer and Hs primer but the MS is still a mystery to me.
QQ: I paint just wheels.
Is epoxy primer the only primer that I'll ever need?
And is there a can primer that you'd recommend for quick spot repairs on wheels?
Great content. Big help for my current car resto. 👍😎
Dave
I have a long-term project. I have sanded the 1k paint.
Can I use 2k epoxy primer over the 1k ?
I use epoxy primer for calipers but i don’t sand the epoxy before applying my base, is that fine? I don’t need the calipers to be ultra smooth but I do need good adhesion
Really enjoyed this !! Question which primer would one lay down on mdf cabinets if you wanted to get that professional furniture gloss like finish
High build primer would be best even spray some polyester spray filler first as the grain can be hard to fill with primer.
So I’m working on my project and I sprayed spray putty straight into body filler, what’s would happen? Will it lift away?
There is a possibility, but it may be ok. Time will tell.
Hi there, appreciate your vids very much. Question about spraying solid white (I use a acrylic because it's easier to manage in a home environment). I have primer fillers/surfacers of various light colors, blues mainly, or greys, and I'm wondering if I will get good coverage with my white color coat. I tend to usel multiple light acrylic coats 4-5, then a heavy final coat. Your thoughts on coverage?
Great video between using 1k and 2k and also tricks do you think you could do a video on blending would be good thank you for the video
Can you not use a 1k sealer and then 2k base and clear over
Hey pal. Thanks for the video, very informative. I’ve got a project where I want to refresh some scuba cylinders. They are steel and I’m taking them back o bears metal. I have to be careful as I don’t want to obscure any of the stamping in the shoulder of the cylinder as that will mean they can’t be tested anymore and will ruin the cylinders. Im looking to do a gunmetal grey topcoat. I’m thinking the export primer would be the best. Would you agree? Any recommendations greatly appreciated. Cheer. Andy from the UK
Yes that would work. If you don’t need repairs you can use extra thinners as you only need a thin coat of primer for that.
@@customspraymods cheers dude 👍
Hey Dave. Just discovered your Chanel and really enjoying the content. I have recently purchased a rolling shell that has been sand blasted back to are metal, rust removed and then primed. Is there an easy way to determine what type of primer was used?
Normally they use an etch primer or an epoxy primer.
What about sealers Dave?
Very good video...I'm liking this series
Hey Dave, awesome video. I’ve recently just sprayed 2k epoxy primer filler over bare metal that I had sanded with 120 grit and some sanding scratches are showing through. Should I sand with 240 or400 then apply another coat or should bring back to bare metal and start again with 240 ? Cheers, keep the great content coming
He's back!
Thank you very much.
I have learnt alot
Glad to know that the 1k etch can go under the 2k base with clear. That's what I was suggested to buy to paint my motorbike, but from your other videos I interpreted that as being the wrong choice.
Also, is there any chance VG Auto paints will start stocking iso free clears? I'd like to be able to use that instead of MS22
All good. ISO free paints and clears are still just as harmful as normal clears. Please don’t think iso free means it’s any safer.
@@customspraymods cheers. I didn't mean to suggest I'd ditch my respirator or similar, just had read some things that made me wonder if I could or should seek alternatives.
What primer shall be used in case of a bare metal surface which is slightly rusted and cannot be removed? I was told 2k self etching primer is the best thing here is this true?
Get the rust off it will continue to rust.
Fantastic job with lot of experience
G'day Dave, Gav here. Mate, you didn't mention anything about red oxide primer !!
I'm doing WW2 vehicles, they all came out with red oxide primer or yellow zinc chromiate primer (which you can't use anymore due to it having toxic chemicals) and then painted in a single pack oil based enamel olive drab paint.
I'm having a major issue with my paint not bonding to the red oxide primer. The first top cost paint I used was an acrylic enamel mixed by Dulux Inspirations at Nerang in Queensland....cost me $340 for their "Autosolv" brand custom made. I sprayed that and when it dried it just scratches off. Now the parts I sprayed need to be blasted again.....the red oxide primer applied was an industrial grade primer and done by Neumann's Coatings at Currumbin on the Gold Coast. You can literally scrape the paint off with a key but not take any primer off. Absolute waste of money for thst paint
I was then recommended Protec's Camoflauge range Olive Drab, so I switched to Protec's PPG Enamel-Alkyd-DPP paint, which is what they supply to the Australian Defence Force.
The primer I'm using is dulux Metalshield Red Oxide Primer out of their rattle cans. The primer has been used on a few hundred parts and ranges from a days drying time to a few years.
I sprayed 2 costs out of the 400gm rattle can from Protec onto some parts...it played down nice, dried to a satin which was odd but was told it'll fade and go lustreless in the UV. Let it dry for three weeks and then bumped a part and again.....the bloody paint chipped off !!!!
So I went back yesterday with the part thst chipped, scratched checked other parts and they too came off, and showed them photos as well as the part I brought with me and the Dulux primer.
Nobody could tell me why the paint failed other than it being the red oxide primer from Dulux. Even after scuffing the primer, which was pretty much useless on cast metal parts, the paint just chips and scrapes off......WHAT THE HELL IS GOONG ON??
All the parts have been wire wheeled or sandblasted back to bare metal, wiped down with either brake cleaner/solvent or wax & grease remover, and then hit with the primer and put in storage ready for paint.
It's like this brand of red oxide primer has some form of barrier to it because it seems not even their own Metalshield paints stay on without chipping off.
So I have a grey etch primer from Protec to try an experiment with this weekend and have sprayed their olove drab onto the Jeeps body tub, which has the Neumann's primer, and see if it sticks. If it does then I'm assuming the Dulux primer has some weird property to it that stops paint bonding with it.
What's your thoughts because Dulix customer service and Protec have no idea why two different types of paint from two different supplies won't bond with two different brands of primers.....the common denominator is thst they're red oxide primers.
@@olivedrabgarage6243 sorry not to sure about red oxide primers. I suppose find a primer that works with the topcoat. Use the recommended primer that's in the data sheets of the topcoat.
Hi #CustomSprayMods What is the difference between Primer Filler and Primer Filler ?
should you wear a respirator when spraying epoxy primer?
Yes ofcourse!!
Yes. The epoxy primer itself is not dangerous and does not need a respirator, but the hardener contained isocyanates that will harm you
Well done Dave!
Thanks Dave. This was the first of your video's I've watched. I'll be watching a lot more to learn about spray painting. I'm restoring at home a '64 Austin Healey Sprite Mk2A with a lot of rust. I'm progressivey stripping back to bare metal to make repairs and it will be a long time before before its ready for painting. (maybe years!!!!). I intend to do as much of the work myself as I cam. From your video I understand that for a project like this, I should use an epoxy primer to protect the bare metal. Is epoxy primer ok to use in a home garage environment?
Also, do any of your videos cover the safety aspect of painting, primarily breathing apparatus for the different types of paints?
No problem. The 2k epoxy is the best and it’s not as harmful as the topcoat 2k but still care should be taken if painting at home. A good spray mask is recommended like a Sundstrom. I’ll go over some safety in the next video. We are currently finishing off an Austin A35 custom painted.
Thanks
I have a 1k primer but have 2k base and clear, what is likely to happen as you dont recommend it. This is for a plastic bumper
If anything blow a head gasket.
Realy good video mate
@customspraymods regarding the ep41, as i rub down with wet 600, it smooths primer perfect tho the primar stays somewhat shiny, will that be ok for 2k topcoat to stick to it?
Yeah that’s fine. As long as it’s sanded the topcoat will stick.
Thanks for the quick reply :) was driving me crazy lol more i sanded more the shine stayed loll
How long can 2k primer sit sanded before topcoat? Ep41
Better off leaving it Un sanded. Then sand it and paint it. Ep41 would last a year or so in weather and longer undercover. If sanded it would still last but sand it again before painting it. 👍
If you’re a back yarder trying to mix 4 to 1 primer always use a 4 to 1 stick not just the mixing tub more accurate with the stick as two much hardener no good not enough really bad
Good stuff thanks 😊
Hello Dave.
I thought that you still have to use some type of sealer whether it's etching or epoxy? Aka a primer surfacer before painting before applying your top coat.
Like if I have some surface rust on
Lets say the inside lower part of a Car Door. So I would have to sand all the rust off, if need be apply any body filler, sand, then apply let's say a 1k or 2 Epoxy primer depending on course on the type of top coat, then a Primer surfacer and Then your top coat. Is this correct?
I was also told you can't use body filler over Self etching primer but you can with Epoxy Primer.
Last, I was told never user a primer surfacer over bare metal?
Thanks again for all of your help
Looks like epoxy primer for me long term project on the go.
Top work Davo dinkim.
duck yeah dave!! awsome video series!
Great video, very informative.
Great info Dave
Thank you great info
Very helpful. Cheers bud
Grey Oxide Metal Primer I've found to be the best primer. It's hard wearing, really thick, and Paint loves it, sticks like shit to a blanket.
The vid painting the Camry wagon was where I found the channel. History repeating.
Funny thing I had the Camry video on my computer for about 6 months before I uploaded it. As I was never happy with it. Someone from a forum was asking about resprays so I decided to upload it as it might have helped them.
Cool 😎
Thanks very good explanation
G B U
Just 320 it and wash it then fucking paint it with 4 cans of Black Rustoleum the Turbo cans a bam your ✔️ done
You make interesting videos but the thing that bugs me the most is when you sand and rub your bare hands over the area. I know why you do it but remember, your hands have skin oil on them (no matter how clean your hands are). I'd suggest getting very low millimeter gloves for that "feel" of the perfect surface. Yes, I know you'll use wax and grease remover but touching and sanding grinds the oil into the area. Otherwise keep up with the very interesting videos. Thank you.
𝙏𝙝𝙣𝙭 !