I literally followed every exact instruction you gave. This is by far one of the best How To videos out for car maintenance. Your ability to simplify and explain each step clearly is a gift. Amazing video. Thank you so much! Saved me a good amount of money, plus it turned out to be a very high quality job. Much better than in any shop.
This video is the best video I’ve seen in the entire time I’ve been watching RUclips since 2004 I think. The video goes straight to the point, no life stories in between. Just the instructions from start to end. Thank you sir for this video!!!
You’re a life saver and money saver, man. Thanks for taking the time to show us dummies how it’s done. We appreciate it. Can you do the front, as well.
I just did this job on a 2020 Accord. This video was an amazing help and a great tutorial on what to clean up, what to lube and how to do the job. Two notes I found: Another video I watched which wasn’t as complete as this one demonstrated putting the vehicle in ACC mode and winding down the caliper with needle nose pliers or a caliper tool. I rented a caliper tool and was able to wind down the e-Brake without taking it apart. Very easy and can do it by hand. You definitely don’t need to take the ebrake housing apart. I also noticed brake noise (clicking) on the first test drive. I got premium low dust pads that seemed to fit quite nice but the spring clips (inside pads) did not seat tight against the caliper tight enough causing a clicking sound. I had to take the wheels off and pry the springs up tight against the caliper. That got rid of the noise. Next time I would pry up the springs a bit before install to make sure they’re tight. Extremely helpful video for someone that hasn’t done brakes in 20 years though.
Honda tech info maintenance guides advise the method I showed to disassemble the e-brake. I still recommend this as winding as you’ve listed forces the motor mechanism to turn without power and programming logic applied, that is not recommended and does risk damage. I absolutely appreciate the feedback, the time you spent commenting, and I hope future videos prove equally helpful.
@ it seems like the motor is sort of like electric motors I’ve taken apart on a lot of different cars for a lot of different reasons. I’d wager there’s a plastic gear and bushings in there which will wear out anyways. I don’t see how it would damage the ebrake motors or be any different than turning the torx and re-assembling, but time will tell. I did think the video was excellently done and very to the point. Thanks!
Amazing video!!!!!! My back brakes changed. Only thing i would say is the counter clockwise is with you looking down at the caliper as if it were mounted. Other than that. This was a big help! 🎉
Absolutely spot on. Complete and concise instructions on how to do the job properly and effectively. For those that do not want to disassemble and reassemble the EPB motor, a cheap ($40) dongle, autel ap200, can be purchased that makes your phone a scan tool. You can effortlessly put your brakes into and out of maintenance mode.
Yo after the work, I got many warnings and alarms asking me to go see dealer.. one of the warnings is “break hold problem. Go see your dealer” and many like this. How do I reset them and running?
Super video and well done. I tried doing this without the video ane got myself into a jam. The video got me out of "take it to the dealer mode" notificaion on my dash. I did a lot of turning with a spanner wrench before I watched this! Thank you David.
I’m going to do my rear pads and rotors soon. Every other RUclips if watched for 2018 accord shows the caliper piston being turned in not pushed in with compressing tool.
3:20 what do you mean by, “To avoid contamination of this closed system, I strongly recommend lining up the splines to the actuator and reinstall following a complete winding of this mechanism.” Are you just saying to re-cover it as soon as you wind it and before you continue to replace the pads and rotor?
I'm pretty sure I've got a rock stuck between my brake disc and the inside cover. Is there any way to get the cover off without removing a bunch of stuff?
Hi in the video you say to turn it counter clockwise but it looks like you are turning it clockwise could you please let me know witch is the write way thank you.
Which step are you asking about? There are several places in the video calls out the direction to turn a bolt. Removal or reinstallation portion would be good to know as well.
Instead of releasing the brakes with the socket we connected jumper cable wires to the battery then with some cables we released the parking brake slowly until they were depressed all the way but I’m getting a brake warning on the dash any thoughts on what I can do? Otherwise we did the same thing in the video
Is it possible to just deactivate the automatic parking brake by putting it into neutral and then pressing down on the parking switch to turn off the automatic parking brake? Or does that not work for this?
So I did the accessories mode for the brake and yes I did got all my lights on after I turned my car on which was scary but after shutting down the car for 5 min all the lights went away. But for my next brake and rotor change I will do what you showed in this video sir. But I got a question- I didn't change my rotors since 2019 oct so do you think I should take the risk to get the rotor's screw on my own coz I'm sure it fully rusted af lol
Should the front be changed at same time? Firestone is telling me they all need to be changed but I’m skeptical. Most of the breaking comes from the rear, right? Any info is appreciated
Depends on wear and condition. Separate changes are possible. If you’re not sure, I’d take their recommendation. Your time is also valuable if you can avoid two trips.
In the video at the 2:58 mark, using the e-torx #11 socket, you said counter clockwise. But it looks like you’re turning it clockwise. Is it depending on which way you’re facing? Thanks again.
From the perspective I have shown in the video, it is counter clockwise. If you are under the car and have your head under the trunk looking at the wheel, then yes it’s clockwise.
@@DavidStumphyou mean if your actually facing that screw then it’s clock wise but since you’re behind it it’s counter clock wise yes? just wanted to make sure cause I’m about to change my brake pads and rotors with akebono pads and stop texh rotors
I noticed in other videos, the caliper piston is first turned a few times, then once it couldn't turn anymore, it was compressed as in your video. Is turning the piston necessary?
@@DavidStumph Thanks for the quick response. Yes, I know the piston needs to be retracted, but does the piston need to be turned clockwise until it stops by a special tool or just compress the piston straight back into the caliper? The tool I saw in other videos had a round disc with two pins that fit into matching indents in the piston
Good eye. Once the electronic parking brake is manually retracted as the video instructs, only straight compression of the piston is needed. No fancy tools, no twisting. The other videos for the 10th gen are misleading.
@@DavidStumph Thanks David. I understand now. Does the car need to be put into "maintenance mode" first, then returned to "normal mode" after the new brakes are installed? If so, how do I do that without an expensive scan tool?
i try to take out the rotors on hrv 2020 could not able too why i alrady remove the screws on the rotors that holding it in front i still could not able to remove it try banging it did i miss something i remove the calipers and brackets also just rotors left but not able to remove it darn why
Looking forward to seeing how you jack up the front...the front center jack point is ridiculously too far in and I can never reach it. I do my own oil changes by only lifting the passenger side.
Lift at the rear side jackpoint, just before the rear tire and under the rear passenger door till the front comes up enough to throw a jackstand in on the front side jack under the mirrors, repeat on the opposite side. That’s how I usually do it.
No. Some would say there is possibility for pressure to be present when you compress the caliper piston. I’ve seen other people open the break line bleeder at the caliper when compressing the piston. I’ve never encountered the pressure or felt the need to bleed the line. With the process I’ve shown there was no pressure on the spindle for the caliper piston. You’re call.
I replaced the rear pads and i wish i saw this video before but i ended up twisting the piston and it worked and everything but now im getting a brake warning light and my parking brake only engages on the left side and the light flashes. Any idea what that could be or how to fix it?
I think you need to establish if the parking brake module is damaged or if you have a different issue. Take the working parking brake motor and place it on the opposite side. If it engages, it could be something else like a bad cable… good luck. Hope it helps.
Brilliant video! I'm a former master wrench, but have been out of the game for over 25 years. Going to do my 19 accord and my wife's 17 CRV. Probably going with the Akebono pads. How are you liking the Raybestos EHT pads?
Should I put anti-seize onto all bolt threads so everything breaks loose easily next time? Same with the brake bleeders if I ever decide to do a brake drain and fill to put anti-seize on them as well?
Do not put anti seize on the lug nut bolt threads. You’ll end up losing a wheel. Only apply anti-seize where I mentioned in the video. If you’re not sure, take it to a garage and have a professional handle it. Good luck!
I followed this exact procedure, including new hardware, lubricant, and surface cleaning. Loctite was also use were appropriate. I am experiencing a bad rattle coming from the rear brakes when driving. That rattle stops when I apply the brakes and the brakes seem to be functioning perfect. Any thoughts or experience with this?
Both sides? Do the brake pads have any play in them? I’d take the caliper back off and see if the pads have an odd wear to them. Hard to tell without looking, but I’d take everything back apart and double confirm everything is tightened properly and has a snug fit. Have a second set of eyes take a look. Check all parts for damage or poor seating. Interested to hear what you find. High pitch or low pitch rattle? Any bangs?
@@DavidStumph So I found that the springs on the inside pad are not making contact with the caliper (both sides) When not under pressure, I can move the pad by hand. I have Powerstop Z17 pads. I reached out to Powerstop to see what they say but do you have any thoughts?
Springs? There shouldn’t be any springs. Did you buy pads with retention clip hardware that is installed on the caliper mounting bracket where the brake pad ears sit? My brake pads didn’t use or come with clips. The pad ears should just slide into the caliper mounting bracket. The outside brake pad rests against the outside caliper ears and the inner pad makes contact with the caliper piston, which is what creates the pressure to produce friction. You might want to have another set of eyes look at this if it’s your first time, or wait for a response from the brake part manufacturer before you drive. Good luck and be safe.
I have a civic and if I only JUST found out I have a REAR JACK POINT AS WELL IM GOING TO BE UPSET. (I realize this is an accord so it’s slightly different)
Great Job. Please do a transmission filter change on 2018 Accord EX (10th Gen) There are several fluid only clips but no filter change. Thank you for your consideration
@@bluazur55 Thank you for your reply. I take what they told you with a grain of salt. It's not logical...I think they are talking out of the side of their mouth on this one. I'll let you know if I find out differently.
There is a strainer assembly, so this isn’t a quick job imo. It’s considered a “lifetime part”. Might consider tackling this one day, but not sure I’d want to pursue this one.
I saw this video AFTER I had already used a brake caliper tool and I did not put it in service mode as you you did. Now I am getting a brake error message and the car is telling me to go see a dealership. Is there anyway to fix this? I wish I had seen your video first. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Same my pops connected jumper cable wires to the battery then with some cables we released the parking brake slowly until they were depressed all the way but I’m getting that same warning
About to do this job. Can’t decide between which method to use for the electronic e brake - Yours or just should I use a caliper tool/needle nose pliers to spin the caliper head back in and not touch the brake module ? Any advice ? Thanks
I’d recommend not forcing the brake module which is the method I show. The 5 minutes it takes is not worth the risk of not doing it and damaging the electronic brake in my opinion.
@@DavidStumph I understand. The only reason I got doubts is because of something I read about the threads not lining up with one another after doing it by hand, causing problems with the system ? (Something like that) Supposedly a Honda master tech suggested this.
I literally followed every exact instruction you gave. This is by far one of the best How To videos out for car maintenance. Your ability to simplify and explain each step clearly is a gift. Amazing video. Thank you so much! Saved me a good amount of money, plus it turned out to be a very high quality job. Much better than in any shop.
I agree 💯
This video is the best video I’ve seen in the entire time I’ve been watching RUclips since 2004 I think. The video goes straight to the point, no life stories in between. Just the instructions from start to end. Thank you sir for this video!!!
You’re a life saver and money saver, man. Thanks for taking the time to show us dummies how it’s done. We appreciate it. Can you do the front, as well.
My front ones are likely due soon, so I intend to. 😀
Yea cuz those are going to go out next and I’d rather get it done before the grinding 😂
This guy deserves x100 subscribers.
Wow! you sir should be a auto technician instructor. Your explanation is a pleasure to listen to.
I've seen other videos that show sloppy work and corner cutting...this is the way I want my brakes done. Thank YOU for sharing. Be well.
Absolute lecture of a video. Amazingly explained. I followed the steps and changed my brakes. Thank you!
Thank you so much for sowing on how to take off that connector.. that was hardest part for me and I've been wrenching on my own stuff for years 😂
I just did this job on a 2020 Accord. This video was an amazing help and a great tutorial on what to clean up, what to lube and how to do the job.
Two notes I found:
Another video I watched which wasn’t as complete as this one demonstrated putting the vehicle in ACC mode and winding down the caliper with needle nose pliers or a caliper tool. I rented a caliper tool and was able to wind down the e-Brake without taking it apart. Very easy and can do it by hand. You definitely don’t need to take the ebrake housing apart.
I also noticed brake noise (clicking) on the first test drive. I got premium low dust pads that seemed to fit quite nice but the spring clips (inside pads) did not seat tight against the caliper tight enough causing a clicking sound. I had to take the wheels off and pry the springs up tight against the caliper. That got rid of the noise. Next time I would pry up the springs a bit before install to make sure they’re tight.
Extremely helpful video for someone that hasn’t done brakes in 20 years though.
Honda tech info maintenance guides advise the method I showed to disassemble the e-brake. I still recommend this as winding as you’ve listed forces the motor mechanism to turn without power and programming logic applied, that is not recommended and does risk damage. I absolutely appreciate the feedback, the time you spent commenting, and I hope future videos prove equally helpful.
@ it seems like the motor is sort of like electric motors I’ve taken apart on a lot of different cars for a lot of different reasons. I’d wager there’s a plastic gear and bushings in there which will wear out anyways. I don’t see how it would damage the ebrake motors or be any different than turning the torx and re-assembling, but time will tell.
I did think the video was excellently done and very to the point. Thanks!
Amazing video!!!!!! My back brakes changed. Only thing i would say is the counter clockwise is with you looking down at the caliper as if it were mounted. Other than that. This was a big help! 🎉
Absolutely spot on. Complete and concise instructions on how to do the job properly and effectively.
For those that do not want to disassemble and reassemble the EPB motor, a cheap ($40) dongle, autel ap200, can be purchased that makes your phone a scan tool. You can effortlessly put your brakes into and out of maintenance mode.
This is an OUTSTANDING video, I mean OUTSTANDING. Thanks for helping me help my daughter and save money.
Thanks
I followed every single step and the same products you recommended.
This could be one of the best how to videos ive ever seen. You sir have earned a 10 premium video score. I appriciate you thank you
Yo after the work, I got many warnings and alarms asking me to go see dealer.. one of the warnings is “break hold problem. Go see your dealer” and many like this. How do I reset them and running?
Super video and well done. I tried doing this without the video ane got myself into a jam. The video got me out of "take it to the dealer mode" notificaion on my dash. I did a lot of turning with a spanner wrench before I watched this! Thank you David.
Fantastic work. Just did my 19 accord EX-L and everything came out great.
Omg, this video is to perfection! Everything was spot on! Thank you for all your help and keep making videos
I’m going to do my rear pads and rotors soon. Every other RUclips if watched for 2018 accord shows the caliper piston being turned in not pushed in with compressing tool.
Yep, not necessary. The caliper piston is retracted, there’s nothing to twist.
Very comprehensive video, good job! So much work for the rear brakes, makes you not want to use ACC 😂lol!
Very detailed, yet easy to follow. Thanks for a great video.
Great job, I always do it in accessory mode and make the job a lot quicker, also eliminates messing around with electronic part that can be sensitive.
Deserves a shit ton more likes !
3:20 what do you mean by, “To avoid contamination of this closed system, I strongly recommend lining up the splines to the actuator and reinstall following a complete winding of this mechanism.” Are you just saying to re-cover it as soon as you wind it and before you continue to replace the pads and rotor?
Yes
Best demonstration ever. A true master. Thanks
Just did mine using your video, thanks!
What are you referring to when you say complete winding of the mechanism
Please do a front brake video for the Accord. Very helpful videos!
Can u link the e York you used to retract the break caliper thank you
A super video and very helpful friend, I have a question. Does this procedure apply to a 2019 Honda clarity hybrid?
Amazing video! Is the the same procedure for the 2018 honda clarity?
I'm pretty sure I've got a rock stuck between my brake disc and the inside cover. Is there any way to get the cover off without removing a bunch of stuff?
Good job man, what a detailed video.
straight to the point and descriptive.
This was incredibly well done. Thank you
Perfection! This will also work on the 2019 model as well?
Yes
Hi in the video you say to turn it counter clockwise but it looks like you are turning it clockwise could you please let me know witch is the write way thank you.
Which step are you asking about? There are several places in the video calls out the direction to turn a bolt. Removal or reinstallation portion would be good to know as well.
@@DavidStumph video starts at 2:57 when you use E torx # 11 to turn the brake piston by hand.
@@anhlam4 from the angle of the camera, as I am showing, it’s counter clockwise.
Do I need to put my Honda Accord 2019 1.5 sport in accessory mode before manually messing with the parking break system
This is a great video! Thank you for all your hard work so that my life is easier!
Excellent video instructions, thanks so much
Instead of releasing the brakes with the socket we connected jumper cable wires to the battery then with some cables we released the parking brake slowly until they were depressed all the way but I’m getting a brake warning on the dash any thoughts on what I can do? Otherwise we did the same thing in the video
First of all thanks for video, I tried to manually do this with the torx socket , just continue to spin never stopping , can you please help me
Thank You for this straight to the point and Excellent video !! 👍🏼
Is it possible to just deactivate the automatic parking brake by putting it into neutral and then pressing down on the parking switch to turn off the automatic parking brake? Or does that not work for this?
Does not work that way.
So I did the accessories mode for the brake and yes I did got all my lights on after I turned my car on which was scary but after shutting down the car for 5 min all the lights went away. But for my next brake and rotor change I will do what you showed in this video sir. But I got a question- I didn't change my rotors since 2019 oct so do you think I should take the risk to get the rotor's screw on my own coz I'm sure it fully rusted af lol
Beautiful job, thank u will be following every step.
Should the front be changed at same time? Firestone is telling me they all need to be changed but I’m skeptical. Most of the breaking comes from the rear, right? Any info is appreciated
Depends on wear and condition. Separate changes are possible. If you’re not sure, I’d take their recommendation. Your time is also valuable if you can avoid two trips.
@@DavidStumph thanks 🙏
Is it the same for the front rotors and brake pads as well?
Same minus electronic parking brake steps.
In the video at the 2:58 mark, using the e-torx #11 socket, you said counter clockwise. But it looks like you’re turning it clockwise. Is it depending on which way you’re facing? Thanks again.
Definitely counter- clockwise from the perspective of the camera and my body in the video.
Not counter clockwise. I did it and the whole thing damn near came out. Now I’m stuck trying to get it back in. 😭😭😭😭😩
From the perspective I have shown in the video, it is counter clockwise. If you are under the car and have your head under the trunk looking at the wheel, then yes it’s clockwise.
@@DavidStumphyou mean if your actually facing that screw then it’s clock wise but since you’re behind it it’s counter clock wise yes? just wanted to make sure cause I’m
about to change my brake pads and rotors with akebono pads and stop texh rotors
@@lexmichael2040 Yes
Hey there great video now when you talk about counter clockwise is that for both sides
Yes
I noticed in other videos, the caliper piston is first turned a few times, then once it couldn't turn anymore, it was compressed as in your video. Is turning the piston necessary?
Yes, you need the room to insert the new pads over the rotor.
@@DavidStumph Thanks for the quick response. Yes, I know the piston needs to be retracted, but does the piston need to be turned clockwise until it stops by a special tool or just compress the piston straight back into the caliper? The tool I saw in other videos had a round disc with two pins that fit into matching indents in the piston
Good eye. Once the electronic parking brake is manually retracted as the video instructs, only straight compression of the piston is needed. No fancy tools, no twisting. The other videos for the 10th gen are misleading.
@@DavidStumph Thanks David. I understand now. Does the car need to be put into "maintenance mode" first, then returned to "normal mode" after the new brakes are installed? If so, how do I do that without an expensive scan tool?
No maintenance mode.
i try to take out the rotors on hrv 2020 could not able too why i alrady remove the screws on the rotors that holding it in front i still could not able to remove it try banging it did i miss something i remove the calipers and brackets also just rotors left but not able to remove it darn why
The caliper spindle is turned in; does the motor itself need to be adjusted in any way? Or can the motor just be reattached and that is sufficient?
Just re-attach as shown and you should be all-good.
@@DavidStumph Thanks!
What about a 2024 hybrid rear bakes
Do you plan on doing a front video as well? Or is it pretty much the same?
I probably will in the next several months.
Looking forward to seeing how you jack up the front...the front center jack point is ridiculously too far in and I can never reach it. I do my own oil changes by only lifting the passenger side.
Lift at the rear side jackpoint, just before the rear tire and under the rear passenger door till the front comes up enough to throw a jackstand in on the front side jack under the mirrors, repeat on the opposite side. That’s how I usually do it.
Thank you for the very detailed video. I saw a couple greases you used but not listed in your description. Any idea where to get those?
Yep, I sure do. I added them to the top of the links in the description. I also noted which parts each gets applied to - Purple vs Orange. Good Luck!
@@DavidStumph got them. Appreciate it. Wish me luck
One more question. Do you have to open/loosen the brake reservoir cap before this process?
No. Some would say there is possibility for pressure to be present when you compress the caliper piston. I’ve seen other people open the break line bleeder at the caliper when compressing the piston. I’ve never encountered the pressure or felt the need to bleed the line. With the process I’ve shown there was no pressure on the spindle for the caliper piston. You’re call.
@@DavidStumph Appreciate all the help. Went ahead and donated. Keep up the excellent work.
Awesome, thank you very much!
could you do a video on how to do a transmission fluid change on the 2,0 models if you have a 2.0 accord?
I replaced the rear pads and i wish i saw this video before but i ended up twisting the piston and it worked and everything but now im getting a brake warning light and my parking brake only engages on the left side and the light flashes. Any idea what that could be or how to fix it?
I think you need to establish if the parking brake module is damaged or if you have a different issue. Take the working parking brake motor and place it on the opposite side. If it engages, it could be something else like a bad cable… good luck. Hope it helps.
Hey David,
Love your channel,it's super informative. One question what coated rotors did you get for this video?
Raybestos 982003
Awesome,thank you sir much ablidged.
Brilliant video! I'm a former master wrench, but have been out of the game for over 25 years. Going to do my 19 accord and my wife's 17 CRV. Probably going with the Akebono pads. How are you liking the Raybestos EHT pads?
No complaints, working well!
Should I put anti-seize onto all bolt threads so everything breaks loose easily next time? Same with the brake bleeders if I ever decide to do a brake drain and fill to put anti-seize on them as well?
Do not put anti seize on the lug nut bolt threads. You’ll end up losing a wheel. Only apply anti-seize where I mentioned in the video. If you’re not sure, take it to a garage and have a professional handle it. Good luck!
Awesome bro thank you so much for this info
I followed this exact procedure, including new hardware, lubricant, and surface cleaning. Loctite was also use were appropriate. I am experiencing a bad rattle coming from the rear brakes when driving. That rattle stops when I apply the brakes and the brakes seem to be functioning perfect. Any thoughts or experience with this?
Both sides? Do the brake pads have any play in them? I’d take the caliper back off and see if the pads have an odd wear to them. Hard to tell without looking, but I’d take everything back apart and double confirm everything is tightened properly and has a snug fit. Have a second set of eyes take a look. Check all parts for damage or poor seating. Interested to hear what you find. High pitch or low pitch rattle? Any bangs?
@@DavidStumph So I found that the springs on the inside pad are not making contact with the caliper (both sides) When not under pressure, I can move the pad by hand. I have Powerstop Z17 pads. I reached out to Powerstop to see what they say but do you have any thoughts?
Springs? There shouldn’t be any springs. Did you buy pads with retention clip hardware that is installed on the caliper mounting bracket where the brake pad ears sit? My brake pads didn’t use or come with clips. The pad ears should just slide into the caliper mounting bracket. The outside brake pad rests against the outside caliper ears and the inner pad makes contact with the caliper piston, which is what creates the pressure to produce friction.
You might want to have another set of eyes look at this if it’s your first time, or wait for a response from the brake part manufacturer before you drive. Good luck and be safe.
I followed the exact procedure. Brakes engage and all but in the dashboard my brake light is flashing. Any advice would be appreciated.
This is an outstanding video
Thanks worked like a charm
Agreed, fantastic video!
where can i get the original break, any idea ?
I have a civic and if I only JUST found out I have a REAR JACK POINT AS WELL IM GOING TO BE UPSET. (I realize this is an accord so it’s slightly different)
What threadlocker do you recommend?
Loctite brand is just fine, blue.
Awesome. Thank you!
Very elaborate .. thanks .
Would this same process work in a honda insight 2019?
Not sure, haven’t changed them on that car. Does it have an electronic parking brake, if so it’s likely very similar.
@@DavidStumph yes it has an electronic parking brake like the accord
Thanks for the video
Thanks for the video. Very Helpful.
Great Job. Please do a transmission filter change on 2018 Accord EX (10th Gen) There are several fluid only clips but no filter change. Thank you for your consideration
I got the fluid replaced at 30K on my 2019 Accord EX and the dealer told me there was no filter, only oil.
@@bluazur55 Thank you for your reply. I take what they told you with a grain of salt. It's not logical...I think they are talking out of the side of their mouth on this one. I'll let you know if I find out differently.
There is a strainer assembly, so this isn’t a quick job imo. It’s considered a “lifetime part”. Might consider tackling this one day, but not sure I’d want to pursue this one.
it is the best how to ever
Спасибо
Good job !
WATCH THIS VIDEO BEFORE YOU DO YOUR OWN HONDA ACCORD. AMAZING IN DEPTH AN ACCURATE.
I saw this video AFTER I had already used a brake caliper tool and I did not put it in service mode as you you did. Now I am getting a brake error message and the car is telling me to go see a dealership. Is there anyway to fix this? I wish I had seen your video first. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Did you find a solution? Happening to me too
Same my pops connected jumper cable wires to the battery then with some cables we released the parking brake slowly until they were depressed all the way but I’m getting that same warning
Getting the same error on dash, you think we place the pads with the caliper not retracted all the way in or there’s a way to reset the error code
Great vid😊
Wish i found this video 2 weeks ago
About to do this job. Can’t decide between which method to use for the electronic e brake - Yours or just should I use a caliper tool/needle nose pliers to spin the caliper head back in and not touch the brake module ? Any advice ? Thanks
I’d recommend not forcing the brake module which is the method I show. The 5 minutes it takes is not worth the risk of not doing it and damaging the electronic brake in my opinion.
@@DavidStumph I understand. The only reason I got doubts is because of something I read about the threads not lining up with one another after doing it by hand, causing problems with the system ? (Something like that) Supposedly a Honda master tech suggested this.
Just did the job man followed your instructions to the tee. No issues at all, thank you again.
You won’t receive this type of quality work even at a Honda dealer.
A.RAMLOO.SYD.AU❤.THANQ