DIY: How to Bleed Brakes Using a Vacuum Pump
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
- Video tutorial on how to bleed your brakes with a vacuum pump. If you’ve replaced a wheel cylinder, caliper, flex lines, brake lines, master cylinder, or any other brake components associated with brake fluid, you will need to bleed the air from the brake system. Other times if your brake pedal feels spongy, air could possibly be present in the lines and will need to be bleed. This applies to both disk and drum brakes. For this example I will be using disk brakes. When working with brake fluid, DO NOT allow it to come in contact with the paint. Either by dripping or even just the residue on your hands. Brake fluid can damage your vehicle’s paint.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-vacuum pump
-socket and ratchet
-wrench
-rags
-rubber gloves
-brake fluid
-brake cleaner
Procedure:
-safely elevate the vehicle and remove the wheel
-sometimes you can pull the vehicle onto ramps and depending on the design, you’ll be able to access the bleeder screw from behind the wheel
-when using a vacuum pump, they normally can be purchased in a kit which comes with a variety of accessories such as hoses, bleeder screw fittings, and a reservoir
-the reservoir is intended to catch the fluid when there is vacuum present so the fluid does not come in contact with the pump
-here I will be installing the hose from the vacuum pump directly on the bleeder screw as I find it has a tighter fit
-locate the bleeder screw
-for callipers, they will be on the backside, towards the top
-for drum brakes, the bleeder screw will be on the wheel cylinder exposed through the backing plate
-clean off the area about the bleeder screw so no chance of dirt contaminates the area we’re working with
-be sure you’re able to get the bleeder screw loose as these can seize up over time
-use either the boxed end of a wrench or socket to loosen the bleeder screw, this will reduce the risk of stripped it
-place the wrench onto the bleeder screw and then install the hose from the vacuum pump
-pump up the vacuum to 25 inches of mercury so there is a negative pressure present at the bleeder screw
-this must be done, otherwise we do risk introducing air into the system
-I have done a leak down test between the pump and the bleeder screw and there are no signs of vacuum leakage
-if you find there is some leakage between the hose and the bleeder screw, you can install a zip or cable tie
-do not allow the vacuum pressure to go below 5 inches of mercury as we don’t want to risk air entering the system, always keep negative pressure at the bleeder screw
-if we get to 5 inches of mercury, either close up the bleeder screw, then pump it back up to 25 inches of mercury or keep pumping up the vacuum when the bleeder screw it open
-break the bleeder screw with the wrench and you will see the fluid immediately entering the clear hose
-you may notice bubbling in the clear hose and this can be from air that is present in the system or air leaking from around the bleeder screw threads
-therefore it can be hard to determine if the air is out of the system
-for this I will be removing some fluid from the lines, only just enough to enter the reservoir cup of the vacuum pump, then test the brake pedal afterwards
-what we are looking for here is a hard pedal
-if you find the pedal is soft or spongy, there is most likely still air in the system, then repeat the procedure if the pedal is soft or spongy
-once finished, ensure the bleeder screw is tight, dispose of the access fluid correctly and replenish the master cylinder reservoir
-pump the brakes and inspect for any leaks
-if you have accidentally touch the rotors or any brake fluid gets spilt on the brake system
-we do not want this on the braking surface as this will jeopardize the braking performance, therefore this will need to be cleaned before brake usage
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author. 
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I don’t understand the dislikes. This fellow has done an informative vid in 3.5 min instead of similar in twice the time and its free. There are some strange people out there. Thanks bloke.
Haters got to hate.
At last a DIY video that clearly explains a process without unnecessary mumbling and obfuscation and presents a clear video with the commentary. Very useful..
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback!
I was just about to say the same thing. thank God videos like this exists, it's too bad you have to filter through a hundred pieces of trash to get to the diamond in the rough
Yea...reminds me of training classes in the USMC, but without the yelling ... straight to the point...Just the facts ma'am.....
@@cerrem1 and no damn music... Semper Fi
@@ronaldcarson4360 I remember a fellow Marine falling asleep in a training class... They smashed a wood chair over him to wake him up.... I found out he later had a cracked spine and was in Beaufort Naval Hospital....
One of the very few videos on this way of bleeding brakes thats to the point and accurate. Seen plenty of others that are just a total waste of time
Thank you, I appreciate the feedback!
Straight to the point no excessive talking, music or explaining. I had my brakes bled and working within 10 minutes
Concise and informative. Perfect! Not everyone needs a 20 minute video on how to properly inflate tires. Thanks!
Thank you, I appreciate the feedback :)
This is a lot more complicated than inflating a tire.
Dude seriously tho it's easy stuff let's keep it that way 😂
This has nothing to do with inflating tires.. but I agree, short and to the point video.
If school teachers articulated like this, we would only need about 6 years of public education...
Thank you so much for the kind words :)
@@4DIYers morning
@@dreymcmillan1697 evening
Is this a compliment or insult? I'm too stupid to figure it out.
@@whoisharo4689 compliment
Have to agree with all those commenting on how well presented this tutorial is. Perfect, tells you what you need to know in a clear, concise manner.
Thank you so much for the kind words :)
Thank you for your precise demonstration. You even outline all the necessary precautions as to perform the task. Had one of this unit, but could never get it to work even after following the instruction that came with it. Lol. Your speech was perfect. Reminds me of the infomercial on tv. Great job!!
Thank you, I really appreciate the kind words and feedback!
Thank you. Straight to the point no bullshit. No one cares who you are and what your story is on these types of videos. No offense just calling out other video makers
Thank you :) No worries, I definitely don't want to mix in my personal life with auto repairs. I like keeping everything right to the point efficiently.
Good Video. Air bubbles coming in around bleeder screw are usually vey fine, and constant, where the system air will be larger bubbles. I usually don't use any more vacuum than necessary to get fluid flow because excessive vacuum can pull air in around the hydraulic cylinder seals which is not good. It takes a bit of practise to tell the difference, but once the large bubbles are gone you should be OK, the tiny micro bubbles from the bleeder screw cannot get into the cylinder, so you have to learn to identify them and live with them.
I was exactly searching for this information. Thanks a lot.
Dude your videos are so awesome, Every time I look up a how to I hope you have a video on it!! Hopefully youll be the next "ChrisFix"
Thank you so much, I really appreciate the support :)
Simple. To the point. Should be the number one search option
Thank you so much!
One of the most important things that is overlooked in most reviews and walkthroughs: be sure to put the rubber seal on the top of the cup to seal the cap to the cup or else it won't develop vacuum. I tried taping the holes on top of the cap, I almost returned the thing until it clicked that I had to use those little rubber band looking seals...
I had the same frustration today!
Most helpful comment of the day!! Thank You 🙏🏻
Excellent video. As an added precaution you can apply pressure to your brakes with an extra leg or any another way!
Great video thank you!
Thank you so much!
Thanks for the tips, especially on the need to build up a negative pressure before opening the nipple. I have seen another video where the person was just using it as a pump to suck the fluid through. Your video seems to answer another of my questions which is whether you have to pump several times to build up the vacuum or whether you just have to hold the pump open. So there does seem to be a non return valve of some sort in the pump, like a bicycle pump but in reverse. Cool. Thanks for that.
No problem, glad I could help. I also have an updated version too in much better quality if you haven't seen it ruclips.net/video/kFQHy2WCDC8/видео.html
01:58 Good advice here re loosening the bleeder screw. I use a six (not the common twelve) sided socket for the initial loosen. I also spray penetrating oil on the threads and leave it a few minutes (or more) in case that helps. I also try tightening just a tiny amount prior to loosening, then I work it loose, back and forth, unlike until it's completely free. I'm talking of screws that haven't been touched in decades. I find it worth a few minutes to loosen the bleeder like this than have it break off. They can be very difficult to remove once they've broken off, in my experience - all too easy to damage the caliper thread.
i wish i would have seen this comment last week lol. i got an 05 acura tl thats spent its life in the midwest and when trying to bleed the rear brakes the nut is seized onto the bleeder screw so it just started turning out of the caliper🤦♂️
ordered myself 4 new bleeder screws and ill be installing them tomorrow
@@michaelharland9599 The nut is part of the bleeder screw ... isn't it? 🤔
Short, simple and to the point. Great video! 👍
Thank you!
Searched for a tool like yours, couldn't find anything local so ended up getting a pro-workshop one that connects to my air compressor. Same principal though - most likely I won't use it again for several years but never mind, I still trust myself to do this job more than if I took it to a mechanic and they put the first year apprentice on it.
I got feed up with the vacuum bleeder because I had to use zip ties and Teflon tape and I was still getting a very small leak so I ended up using a 2x4 wedged between seat and the pedal to simulate a second person. Worked the first time I tried it.
To hold the brake pedal down? Thanks
straight to the point, thank you
Im studying to take my ASE tests and very glad I looked this up. Good shit.
Happy to help and best of luck!
This vid was clear and straight to the point. Thank you!!
Amazingly in-depth
Thank you!
Others suggest putting grease on the threads of the bleeder screw to prevent air being drawn in when under vacuum.
Really appreciate the video. Took car of my brake fluid change in wrx with ease and saved myself money
Glad I could help and thank you for the feedback!
Great content bro, really helped me bleeding mine properly, thanks
Thank you so much and excellent to hear!
Well done. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you and glad to help out. Don't forget to subscribe :)
4DIYers Done.
Great, thank you for the support :)
You did a great job in thus video. Straight forward well said. I wish more people made videos like this. when I do videos I try to do them like this but not successfully though.
Thanks I didn't know about the bleeder screw attachments and was just putting the tube over the valve and was wondering why it wouldn't hold vacuum.
Happy I was able to help!
awesome guid man, thanks
Thank you for the feedback :)
Thanks for the super clear guide, straight to the point. Wish more RUclips videos were like this!!
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback :)
Short and sweet... Well played dude ... Well played.
Perfect! Thanks for the upload!!
No problem!
Thanks for the video, one thing regretfully about this bleeder system, the instructions suck. At least mine did. luckily, I had it right all along. But, I still like to make sure before I start working on my car. It's important when you do work on your car, to first do no harm and make things worse! :)
When checking the pedal feel, do you turn the ignition on or start the car?
The video was made in advance and he recorded the instructions later, and was rushed to get all of the info spoken in under 4 minutes. Helpful, just had to replay a couple times.
Dude nice fricken video. The pacing and narration was great for a diy instruction video. Keep it up!
Than you so much, greatly appreciated!
Best video i have ever seen in my life
Thank you, much appreciated!
Giving this route a shot today thank you for your videos they are very informative
You're very welcome and the best of luck. Keep me posted on how it works out.
I have that exact same vacuum pump kit, and I tried to do exactly as you said, but it appears that there are leaks in the threads between the bleed screw and the caliper (disk) and wheel cylinder (drum rear). There is no way to seal off the tapered fittings and the bleed screw, to allow me to develop that kind of vacuum before opening. And then afterwards, I can pump all that I like and never get much fluid out of it.
It will work well on brakes with ABS?
This can be used in conjunction with another method that works well. It's simple. Hang the cup on a high point. There should be some liquid in the hose (mandatory strainght vertical line). Open the bleeding plug and get in the car to pump the brake pedal. All the air will come out on its own at the highest point (the cup). You just have to be careful not to overfill the cup and not to run out of brake fluid in the master cilynder.
I have a diesel lift pump for a fuel line... you think it would be enough vacuum for changing brake fluid?
Hi. How can we be sure that when you open the bleed screw, the vacuum pump isn't drawing air through the bleed screw threads and leaving some in the system when the screw is tightened? You say to pump the pedal to check but I really want to be sure no air is left in there. The only way I can be sure is to use a pressure bleeder but I already have a vacuum kit. Thanks.
Make sure your bleeder screws on your other wheels are tight 🤬 one of mine was left loose by the previous mechanic.
THANKS BRO ! I'm about to use a pump on my 66 c10 .
No problem, happy to help :)
Quick and to the point; thanks !!
You’re very welcome!
Great video - straight to the point.
Thank you!
So happy I found this thank you!!
No problem, happy I could help!
So in the video you put an adaptor on the end of the hose to go onto the bleed screw; however, when you put the hose on the bleed screw it looks like that adaptor is gone. Where you using an adaptor on the bleed screw? What is the advantage of using the adaptor? I bought this type of vacuum pump last night to bleed my hydraulic clutch and I can't get it to maintain a vacuum while when I crack the bleed screw open.
great video, straight to the point!
Thank you!
What bleeder kit are you using? Do you like it could you give me a link? Thanks enjoy your video
Hi can u use a vacuum pump for ac on the break fluid bleed, just modify the and not use the hand pump?
I have a rounded brake bleeder screw on the passenger front wheel. If I use a self-bleeder kit like this, can I successfully bleed the brakes at the driver-side wheel ?
Just what I needed, thank you!
You are so welcome!
nice video and straight to the point thanks
Thank you!
Excellent video
Excellent video. Simple directions with good video. Thanks.
Thank you :)
can anyone tell me what the little suction cup is for?
This is a great guide
Thank you!
lol I kind of recognized the under carriage / suspension a little bit from my own car and as soon as I saw the pedals and the rubber mats, then I was immediately surprised I was right in my suspicion of it being an E39. I have a 2001 525d btw.
Haha, right on! Oh you're not in North America, unless you had the car imported. We weren't lucky enough to get the diesel option, but I have seen a couple imported cars. I actually have a bunch of E39 repair videos, but sadly have sold the car :( I still have a few videos to finish up and release for the E39 though.
@@4DIYers This may sound like a dumb question, but what did you do about the ABS system to allow fluid flow? I have an E38 (2001 740i) and everything I've read says the solenoids need to be operated via BMW DIS to bleed the brakes. Reason I ask is because I have one front caliper that is suddenly dragging (can hear it clear as day) despite no pulling to that side or other behaviors.
Succinct, and spot on. The videography was a bit weak at times, but overall and excellent video. Thank you
Just enough information to keep it short enough and helpful enough. Thanks.
Glad to help out and thank you for the feedback!
Good video 👌
Thank you :)
I love the video!
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing 🙏🏾
Do you have to start from the furthest brake from the cylinder with this kit or can i bleed any of them in no order
If you're bleeding the whole system, then the furthest wheel first.
Is there any way you can think of how to seal the threads once the bleeder screw has been cracked? I turn the bleeder valve by just a mere fraction of a turn just to let a small amount of fluid leak, but the vacuum pump keeps pulling air from the threads. I have tried grease but this didn't help me. The problem is is that even with such a nifty piece of equipment, all I can see are small bubbles being pulled from the threads... I would much prefer to see bubbles and then clear fluid to indicate I did a job well done. Thanks.
Grease
Teflon tape
Do you put the cap back on the master cylinder before you bleed them ?😊
If you go past the minimum line, can you just start the bleeding job over again by reflushing the system? Or does it ruin it permanently by going past the minimum line in the master cylinder resovoir
You just have to start over, wasting time and fluid. Depending on how low you go, you might be fine. The other issue is if air gets into the abs system. This can be a challenge and maybe not even possible to fix at home. These abs modules generally need higher level scan tools to run a program to remove the air.
Absolutely perfect video. Very informative and not longer than a song.
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback :)
What about systems with abs? Will this work or does the abs pump need to be consistently pumped? I notice my pressure bleeder doesnt work because of the abs.
I was told several times that if you can get fluid flowing out of the rear than it's not your abs but I sure wish someone would answer your question cause it would answer mine,I have done at least 60 break jobs only struggling with 2 but this question keeps popping up.
What vacuum pump was that ? It did not look to be plastic which always seems to break .
Nice DIY, Do you not have to press the brake pedal a little to allow fluid to pump out of the nipple? I figured it wouldn't get through the master cylinder if the pedal is not pressed.
YES YOU DO... I almost drove myself crazy, not realizing even with a vacuum pump you should begin the process by pumping the brakes a few times
There's a ton of nuance that could be gotten into. As an example it's a smart move to have the car tilted forward to where the front brakeline on the master cylinder is slightly lower than the one closer to the firewall. Because on a lot of cars the cylinder is mounted at an angle and there is room in the cylinder for air to get trapped higher than the secondary outlet. But how long do we want the video to be lol.
@@sidichendid7237 The shop manual for my 1956 Olds 98 with power brakes says, "The engine should not be running and the vacuum reserve should be depleted by applying the brake several times before starting the fluid bleeding procedure."
You say to pump up to 25inHG, do you know why the manual for this pump says not to exceed more than 10inHG for bleeding?
+4DIYers Is it safe to take off the whole brake hose and replace with a new one, then bleed the brakes? Or do I have to temporarily make sure no air gets in the line?
once you have drained system you have to flush it. a pressure bleeder will suit better for this than a vacuum bleeder but just due to speed/simplicity, you can also hand vacuum that situation. if you're taking the line off the master cylinder you should plug that and not drain it if you can help it. the brake lines are less of a big deal to flush it's the same procedure you'll just do it for longer.
How can I discern the difference in air bubbles that is caught in the line versus bubbles caused by air at the bleeder nipple whlle I'm bleeding them?
aweome video, bro
Thank you so much!
Great video i just bought a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes on my 4 wheeler thanks for the instructional video
Happy to help out and thank you for the feedback!
So do you only open the bleeder screw just enough to let fluid come threw I feel as if I’m getting inaccurate readings
The bleeder nipple on my Nissan is on the bottom of the caliper and the feed is middle and nothing on the top does this still apply?
I know this is a bit of an older video but I was wonderingdo I have to do all the four wheels or can I just do it on the front driver's side
If you only do the front driver's side only that "brake line" will be "flushed." The other 3 "Brake lines" will still contain old fluid and/or possibly air bubbles.
These "brake lines" are not as interconnected as you might think. If there is air in the rear passenger's side brake line, no way are you going to get that out only cleaning the front driver's side.
Dear Sir:
i have an E39 98 528i. There is a click sound when i press my brakes on front wheel... its not all the time but esp once i move the car in the morning.. it happens as one click noise even whith slight push on pedal.. can you pls advise??!!
and for this video... when i bleed the system and want to test the pedal if its frm or not.. i should close the bleeding screw or i can do it while its connected to the pump
AUSTIG M could simply be the pads tightening up on the disc.
What do you do if the flow completely stops at 25 with the screw open?
Just like with their transmissions, people do not ever change out the brake fluid in their ABS system thinking the stuff lasts forever. Then the ABS light pops up and the brake pedal goes to the floor and fails to stop the car. Brilliant! The brake system will nearly last forever if you change the fluid. And getting a vacuum pump like this allows you to work on your car and save money both by skipping the repair shop, and you are providing the labor. This tool pays for itself the first time you use it, and you don't get brake fluid all over your driveway. Now that is Brilliant! All ya gotta do is change the fluids in the brake system and transmission every 60K-75K miles, and your car won't break down. Promise.
Are you a pilot or flight crew member by any chance?
Nope, but I want to get my pilot's license. Why do you ask???
4DIYers because your communication skills are amazing haha I'm impressed. You will have a flawless time talking to ATC
Thank you, I really appreciate that :)
so this brake bleeder kit is just for getting air out the system right? It would probably be advised to use a power bleeder for brake fluid flushes correct?
No, it can be used for flushing the system too, it just takes a little longer because of the smaller cup.
Do you need to leave the master cylinder cap off while doing this?
I have the cap set on the reservoir, just to reduce the chance of dirt falling in. But do not tighten it as you don't want a chance of a vacuum building up.
thanks for the video and good info. i just bought one never bled brakes before only watched and pressing the peddle. first mistake i did was not putting in the O ring so i got no suction at all. second mistake i did not pump it before opening the bleeder screw the instructions that came with my tool doesn't say any of that it just says open the bleeder and start pumping, even said it in the video. got to try again last resort i think im opening bleeders too much and likely getting air in or i have to put silicone on the nipple end due to maybe air getting sucked in from the threads? otherwise all im getting is TONS.. of tiny air bubbles and some large ones, some liquid but never a full line of it and it just is non stop just nothing but air.
Nice video, but why your sweather is in frond of the action ???
Gr8 video Thankyou
Thank you so much and you are very welcome!
Do u keep the lid on or off wen using pump thnx
Would you check the brake pedal for stiffness with the car running or not running
While it’s running.
Kinda missed the last steps lol so when you pump the brakes you close the bleeder screw? Cause you said don't let it drop below 5
I just got a new 80$ Maddox brake billed pump kit. It won’t go past 20, then very slowly leaks down, it don’t leak down at all at 5 but 20s all it can handle apparently.. so hopefully I can get it sealed better or 20s good enough lol..I got a few months ago so I hope I can get it working good because this things in returnable now😅.
I’ll try soap and water and check the whole thing in the pressure mode obviously (this one does both vacuum and pressure)
THANK you!
Genius
Thank you!
To the point, thanks.
Thank you :)
Hey, i just replaced every component of the brake system on a 1967 camaro upgraded to 4 wheel disc brakes. Have not been able to get a hard pedal, the pedal falls to the floor, have bleed the brakes many times, and replaced the new master cylinder, and the new brake boost, still no sucess. Do you think the air is possibly trapped in the line some how? I'm perplexed.
Same here with a 70 c10 truck
Have you bled the master cyclinder?
Awesome video, thank you.