I just released the video about CPU Boost if you're interested in seeing what it does, and why I recommend disabling it: ruclips.net/video/e3Jd7PLuVSg/видео.html
How do you get it to recognize when to change mode for battery and plugged in my always defaults to performance and I have to manually change it to manual and then choose the wattage even though I have a 18 watt and 25 watt saved profile.
@@noifwoao You'll want to unplug it, then set all 3 sliders to manual mode @ 18 watts. Then plug it in, and set them to 25 watts. It's saving the profiles independently. If you've done that, then the issue is it will save watt settings on a per game basis. So if you've set it to performance in a certain game, it'll automatically go to performance when you launch that game. Hover over one of the games you have in the Armoury Crate launcher and press the "X" button for "Game Profile". Then go down to "Configuration" on the left hand side. You'll see the "Operating mode AC" which is plugged in mode and the "Operating mode DC" which is unplugged. You can set them in there. They should save however after changing it in a game though. I really don't like how Asus has set this up, because I'm not seeing a way to set the profile across all games. I might end up doing a video on it, as from what I can tell the controller profiles are doing the same thing, with no way to set it "globally" for games you've previously opened and changed the settings. Hope this helps, let me know if you run into any issues.
@@noifwoao That is really strange! I'm not sure what would be causing that. Make sure you don't have a game open when you set the power to manual (on both plugged in an unplugged). Also, try going to "Content" at the top and then clicking "Update Center" and see if there are any updates for Armoury Crate. It's possible you might be on an older version of Armoury Crate, let me know what you find :)
Figured it out for some reason it wasn't recognizing my charger as compatible even though I had it plugged into the charger that came with it so I moved it to a different plug on my power strip and now it works thank you.
Also after you get those set if you plug in an incompatible charger and unplug that charger it messes the settings all up and won't go back to the battery settings and stick with last known until you plug in a compatible charger or restart the Ally. Maybe a bug or windows thing or they just didn't program it to operate correctly with a charger below 65 watts correctly.
I agree with you, I no longer use or see the need to use 30w turbo mode it didn't really give me huge improvement that made the extra heat worth it, I feel the sweet spot is 17w-20w like you said I get really good fps and temps without all the extra heat and power draw. I also had that screen tear issue and some games won't allow me to do 120hz but I found changing the stock 4g to 8g made a good improvement for me, no more lag and games run better for me with medium to high settings 👍🏻 just an idea I've been playing Arkham asylum at high settings @ 1080p 120hz with 60-62fps consistently with temps at 58-62°c all at 17w 👍🏻
Definitely a good tutorial here! I was playing The Crew 2, ultra settings and was getting a decent 28-30 fps while playing unplugged while still keeping the temps below 70°.
Wow what a difference, thanks dude works greats on everything I throw at it and running 18w low power draw and I can tell the battery will be better......Subscribed!
This really helped I’m a console gamer and this is my first handheld so I’m really new to this whole pc world but with these custom settings would I be able to play more intense games
I have a few myself I made a custom 13 watt mode for certain games to prioritize battery life even further like the accent was pretty decent performance at lowest graphics on 13 watts. Just depends if I’m gonna be near a outlet or if I have the portable power bank with me. But I usually do either a custom 15 watt mode that boosts to 20 for 10 seconds or my custom 18 watt mode that boosts to 20 or 25 for 10 seconds when on battery
great explanation, simple instructions, i am not just very clear about fan part, did you select tab on option 3? you did not adjust fan curve or anything, right?
Thanks! Here is a link to the joystick extenders I bought. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079811C49/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. They are for PS5/PS4 and the Nintendo Pro Controller so they don't fit perfectly. I'd probably hold off for some specifically made for the ROG Ally. For me they make them more comfortable, but they feel even looser with extenders on them. I'm sure there will be 3rd party joysticks at some point where we'll be able to replace them. I've taken apart the console and removed the Joysticks and it's not too hard to get to them. Asus has made it a lot easier to take apart than other devices I've seen.
Oh nice; this may help with some of the overheating problems I've been having. Wattage spikes would explain heat spikes under low load. Good tips! Update a few days later: My overheating problem because interminable and I had to return the device and exchange it for a new one. As best I can tell, something was causing the CPU cores to boost their clocks stupidly high (up to about 4.3 ghz) on boot up, which caused a massive heat spike and crashed the Ally in only a few seconds. No idea what caused that but hopefully it doesn't happen to the new one. Update 2 about a week and a half later: I've received my replacement unit and after wrestling with a bunch of software updates, I've disabled all CPU boosting in Windows following Filterless' video in the pinned comment and that appears to have fixed the heat spike problem that my first unit was having. I don't have an SD card to test on the new one, but so far it seems to have stabilized. Here's hoping it stays that way.
Hey, just so you know I just had to return mine because the SD Card Reader stopped working. I have a whole video I just released about it, where I go through and test it. I'm going to hold off on the exchange till I hear what Asus says about the SD Card issues. With my testing I suspect it's heat that could have caused it, just like you said, it boost way to high and way too hot. What's annoying is I think Asus put the boost in there for benchmarks so it appears more powerful... Frustrating for sure.
No update can fix the location of the sd card slot on the motherboard.Another blunder by the engineers and the designers.This is the biggest flop in handheld gaming history.
@@uclapac10 Seems a little early in the device's lifespan to get melodramatic about its merits. I agree the SD card location makes it vulnerable to mechanical failure caused by excessive CPU heat, but some people's SD card reader issues have been caused by (and fixed via updates to) software and not hardware. I think calling the Ally a flop ignores a lot of the device's capability. The next month or two will be the real test of the product's viability as a whole, as we see just how committed Asus is to supporting the Ally and addressing customer concerns. In the meantime, it's probably best to disable all CPU boosting to help prevent the both the overheating issue and possibly the SD card reader issue.
This is crazy Filterless. 2 watts difference from 15- 17w and we're seeing an offset of 20fps lol. Wow got my 18w profile made just now. You earned my sub/like..
Hey i've got a quick question, so when i changed my settings to manual mode i applied 17w to unplugged and 25w when plug just like you did but when i go to the command centre and its on 17w it keeps up the menu manual mode settings of the fppt etc so i can change it on the fly but i don't want that how do i remove that still staying on there
I actually would recommend custom power levels with 2 - 3 watts between each level. Some games a few more watts can make all the difference and some really don't really need any more watts.
Yes, however, I wouldn't use 1 or 2, the default to the fans being way too low. I'd only use 3, or adjust the fans manually by dragging around the squares. I personally just use 3 and get great temperatures.
@@menmabmx1995 Yes, it's from BIOS 322. They're ramping up Fan 1 because it's near the SD Card reader to try and mitigate heat. I have a video on why I don't think it's a good solution: ruclips.net/video/bLkPKb9dwOw/видео.html
How did you get the manual power plan in the command centre? I have set a manual 1 but on my command centre it only shows silent,performance and turbo, many thanks in advance and you got my sub, great vids my friend 👌
Cause you did not apply the manual mode in armoury crate. Once you set the power levels make sure to tap the icon which has the tick mark within a square box. It should give you a warning prompt. Click Ok to proceed. Then you will be able to see the manual mode in command Center too in the operating mode toggle button
Thank you for your Videos. I have a issued with my Fan curve... I tried to Change it but the 4th dot has to stay above 74. Ive Seen many Pics in Reddit, and they all have IT below 74. Any clue why its fixed to stay above? Was there an Update? and do you have the Same curve for Fan 1 and 2 or are they different?
They updated it in a bios update to force it to 74 unfortunately. Because of an SD Card issue. So it was an update. It was bios 322 that caused that, and it's still present in 323. So you'd have to roll back to 317. But then you'd loose some performance as bios 323 really boosted lower watt performance.
What's the video about CPU boost? In Dragon's Dogma, it runs better on the Deck on high settings than it does on the Ally, I notice the GPU being underutilised.
Great vid dude! Highly appreciate it Doesn’t shifting from 60hz to 120hz (even though FPS doesn’t hit 120), drain battery faster? For example if I cap FPS at 45, does battery drain faster if I toggle 60 to 120hz?
Hey, glad the video helped! From my understanding if you have the FPS capped at 45FPS, you'd actually save some battery life, since the display is matching the 45FPS and will refresh at 45Hz. However, I'd say it'd be almost impossible to notice any power draw difference between the two when gaming because of how small the difference would be. The power levels you're running and FPS in game will be of far more importance. So capping the FPS to 45 in a game that could push 80+ or so will be a huge improvement in battery, but switching between 60hz and 120hz, you probably won't see much difference if at all. If you were planning to watch a movie or RUclips however, 60Hz would give you longer battery life and I would recommend switching it for video watching. As you're only seeing 60Hz (or even less in some movies) and theres no reason to have it running at 120Hz as FreeSync doesn't work for videos.
If this helps: In my phone (ROG Phone 6 165hz) the ARM SoC which maxes out at about 12~15w in very heavy use capping the refresh of the screen to 60 does improve battery life while the phone is not in use for about a day (sleeping), but in normal use or even gaming unless the game pushes framerate higher than 60FPS the refresh rate of the screen doesn't have any meaninful difference in battery life. In my laptop with a 144 hz screen and having a CPU that can push about 40w (although i do cap to 29.5w because of diminishing returns using ThrottleStop in TPL menu) the refresh rate play too little if anything in battery life even if i a cap to 60 hertz, screen brightness and even the speakers consumes more power than the screen refresh rate.
Hey man, cool videos! Question for you about the fan curves. I still can’t wrap my head around how to make a good fan curve for the custom TDP’s that I’m creating. I’m trying to create a few manual TDP’s in 18w, 22w, and 25w and I understand it’s better to set all 3 values to the same so that the unnecessary boost mode is disabled in each of them. So it would be 18w / 18w / 18w and 22w / 22w / 22w and 25w / 25w / 25w for each of my custom TDP. I’m just not sure now what the fan curves should be set at for each of those wattages? You said that the fan curve 3 preset is pretty good and what you use, could I just use that across the board for all 3 of the manual TDP’s or would that only apply for certain wattages? What fan curve would be the best to do for my 3 manual 18w, 22w and 25w TDP’s? Would love for you to make a video in future going into the whole creating fan curves thing and how they work, for us newbies.
Hey the level "3" profile on both fans works great, even on BIOS 322. Although it's a bit louder now on Bios 322 because of them ramping the fan up more (probably because of the SD Card issues). You can always ramp up the fans even more, but if the system is running in the 70's, then it's good. Technically it can handle even hotter temperatures, and Asus allows it to hit 95c for the first 2 minutes in Turbo mode. So manually locking the watts means you're already well below the temps people are getting that don't lock them. I still just use the level 3 fan profile and have great temps. Make sure you select level 3 for each manual setting (it resets the fan curves for each new custom profile). So you'll need to set both fans to 3 for each profile (18w, 22w & 25w).
Hey, it's just the default monitor. If you hit the second little button on the left to bring up the menu, you'll see a thing you can click, I believe called "Monitor" that will bring up the same little box you're seeing on mine.
Yes, if you like the 17 watt profile you can set it at that, and then always run it at 17 watts for everything :) If you're getting low FPS however, it could be worth bumping it up between 20-25. I don't recommend 30 though as there isn't much gain for the additional watts/temperature.
I just noticed that when u unplugged it, it automatically switched to 18W on manual mode. How did you get it to do that? I basically want to do exactly like your settings; 25W on AC and 18W on DC without having to enter armory crate and selecting from the manual mode drop down list :)
When you unplug it, you can go in and set the Manual mode to 18w. You have to set the 25w when it's plugged in, then the 18w while it's unplugged. Also, only the official charger/dock has worked for me. When I use 3rd party adapters/chargers, it stays in the same power mode when plugged in and unplugged. It's only on the official charger that it'll automatically switch. Hope this helps! :)
@@filt3rless That is exactly what happened with me. When I used the official charger it worked (changes automatically), and when I used JSAUX it doesn't change (need to do it manually for now). Thanks for confirming! I highly appreciate it :)
Hey, V-Sync definitely does reduce tearing. I've notice it adds some latency though in most of the games I enabled it in (the input takes longer to take effect). So I usually leave it off for that reason and just use 120Hz and freesync as it does basically the same thing, but without the added input latency. Give it a shot if you have time and see what you think :)
@filt3rless yep it does but I guess for me it's not enough of a problem, the only reason I go this route is to save more battery, but although I haven't really tested this or see how much more it drains, it just makes sense that way unless you've noticed no difference?
@filt3rless also to add that 18watt does make a difference and drains a little less as I have a 20 watt mode set on mine that literally gives a frame or two more battery. I don know what the point of 25 watt mode is. In the several games I tested it only gives 3-6 frames more but drains significantly more battery. Asus needs to tune those power modes even more
Uncapping the framerate is a better option because it will feel smoother due to VRR it will feel smoother due to frame time being more stable, and it should in theory save battery due to the screen matching the refresh rate instead of being at 60 at all times
@pogchamp4542 more fps will need more power and kill battery quicker right? If a game dances around 65-75fps fluctuations cause instability rather than capping it at 60 fps keeping it stable and using less power necessary
I've been working on a video about this. Most games it doesn't make much difference, but there are a select few where it does. One of them being Dirt Rally 2.0. At 4GB I got (94 FPS Avg / 80 FPS 1% lows) and at 8GB I got (121 FPS Avg / 99 FPS 1% lows).
pretty counterintuitive ro enable 120hz while fixing battery issue sicne 120 hz uses more battery. a little tearings fine if u want more battery duration per charge.
From my understanding of free sync the display is matching the FPS of the game. So in this game it's actually running at 45Hz. If you set it to 60Hz, it constantly runs at 60Hz no matter what. So you'd be able to actually save battery as well as reduce tearing if you're below 60Hz. Now if you're running something at 120FPS, or watching videos (RUclips, Netflix) then 60Hz is a great option if you want to conserve battery. And if you set it to 60Hz, you can turn on V-Sync and it'll cap the FPS to 60Hz. The "FPS Limiter" is basically useless on this, which I was thinking about making a video on because it doesn't work in Direct X games (which is most games). So something like MSI Afterburner with RTSS would allow you to cap the FPS across all games.
For some odd reason when I put 2 profiles like yours - 18watts/25watts when i change to each other it will break the other profile :/ will only remember SPL and the rest is still on 25watts. also, after a day or two the profiles were completely disappeared.
I've noticed this as well. However, after you set it across the board it should hold those levels. It's only when you go back into the profile that it will jump the other sliders back. It acts weird, I don't know what's going on with Armoury Crate. I'd say just set the levels across the board, load up a game and see if it's actually boosting. If not, you should be good to go, mine seems to be working properly and I just leave it alone after I have it set. As soon as I start dragging sliders or going back into manual it seems to want to push the 2 sliders on the right back up.
Are you using the official charger? You'll have to change the settings when plugged in vs unplugged, then it should automatically switch. However, if you're using a 3rd party charger and/or dock it won't switch. It stays in the battery setting. I usually use a Steam Deck charger on the go, and it doesn't switch. On the official one though, it does switch.
when I manually set to 18 watts and leave the AC Control Panel and switch back to the game, it falls back to the Standard 15Watt mode after some seconds without touching anything after that. do you know whats the problem here??
When you set the power levels make sure you don't have a game open. Then any games where you've already set a power profile, you'll need to change to the one you want. Games save the power profile you set per game, so if you were playing retro games, you could have a "Silent" profile and it remembers that and will auto switch. Any new games though should inherit the settings you set with no games open. So you should just have to change it for games that you've opened before you set the power limits. Also, if you hover over the game in the Armoury Crate launcher, you can hit "X" to bring up the settings and you should see "Configuration" where you can change the AC and DC power settings for that game. I wiped my device last night due to an issue I'm troubleshooting so I don't have Armoury Crate installed right now. Let me know if this helps though, if not I'll be able to give you more detail once I get it installed again :)
There is something that I don't understand. What's the point of putting 25 watt in manual mode when the console is plugged in? because when it is plugged in there is no need to save battery power and it is in 30 watt turbo mode. what's the point of putting 25 watts when it's plugged in???
--Edit I believe I misinterpreted what you were asking. Like Wash said below any 65 watt should work. However it probably won't automatically switch to the "plugged in" power profile like it does with the official charger. So if you have it set to "Turbo" when plugged in and "Performance" when unplugged, you'll have to manually switch this when not using the official power adapter/dock. Also, the manual settings will be locked to 25W. This is because there is a weird issue where Asus isn't properly recognizing most 3rd party chargers/docks. Hopefully ASUS fixes this in the future. --Original Comment Hey, I'm not sure there is one right now. For some reason Asus seems to be limiting 3rd party docks. So even if you have enough power being supplied, it won't "recognize" it. Hopefully they fix this in an update, but the only time I've been able to draw max power is on the ROG Ally Dock (which I have a video unboxing of) and the official charger that came with the ROG Ally. There could be a bank out there where the Asus will recognize it, but I currently don't know of any.
I don't think he answered your question. A power bank doesn't need to be recognized. It's going to supply power if the power lines are connected. Just pick up a nice power bank that says it charges at 65w. I also have no issue using the two hubs I have with it.
The way I see it: - Steam Deck: a proper portable device, scales really well, can be used for mouse based games & gamepad games but not designed for AAA games - ROG Ally: horrific battery life means it's not really that portable and since only 18W is efficient and scales really badly when you move away from this, it's pretty much designed to run more demanding games that the Steam Deck can't run BUT only gamepad games mostly The battery is really the big problem with the Ally. I would have preferred a heavier Ally with a better battery myself. Wanting to beat the Steam Deck in weight and then getting TROUNCED in battery life was not the right move.
I agree, the Steam Deck handles games at low wattage really well. When I loaded up Dirt Rally 2.0 and saw 1.2 watts for the CPU and 2-3 watts for the GPU, with a total system draw under 15 watts at 40FPS, medium settings, I realized just how crazy good the Steam Deck is with power. But, the Freesync and raw performance of the Ally is something I like. Plus I can't get some games working properly on the Steam Deck, like Horizon 4, still stutters and can't do 60FPS.
Man, I have one very last question 😅 Once plugged into the wall, only the Turbo Mode is affected by the boost right? I wanted to create a custom profile which will replace the Performance Mode from 15W to 18W and the Turbo Mode I would like to do 25W unplugged and 28W plugged. Is this possible too? And if yes, what fan profile should I use for the 2 profiles I told you? Also, once plugged, Silent Mode, Performance Mode remains unchanged in comparison to being unplugged. I mean for example Silent Mode, Turbo Mode unplugged and plugged will use the same watts right? Only Turbo Mode is affected by the watts changes when plugged, I've got this right? Tldr: I want to replace the standard Performance Mode and Turbo Mode only, is this doable ? Thanks once again and sorry for these questions but I'm getting anxious and I want to be sure I won't mess my machine once I received it this week ❤
Use "3" for the fan profiles if you're not sure what you're doing. If you set Manual while plugged in, it'll always go to Manual when you plug it in, unless you switch it to something else, like Silent, Performance. Same for battery, if you set Manual mode it's a separate one for battery. So while plugged in you can have Manual set at 25 watts, and then unplugged it can be 18 watts. It will automatically switch back and forth. However, if you change it to "Silent" on battery, it will remember that and automatically choose "Silent" while on battery until you set it back to Manual.
Thankyou brother i followed your guide for manual mode 17w i done 10 less fan than the degress up until 60c and then it maches and basically maxes fan out at 70/75c i think not fully tested yet but gone from silent fans to actually hearing them 😂😂 rather a cool bit louder device than a red hot less of a life span silent device 😂
Jeeze, that's almost 80% more power for 20% performance! I had my SD Card Reader burn out (at least from what I can tell). Planning to get another one soon, but with a warranty.
This is on 319. I have a video I filmed after this where I test 317 vs 319, there is a slight difference in some games but not enough to be worth it IMO unless there is a specific game you're having issues with. I've since re-upgraded to 319 and haven't noticed any performance issues in a variety of games.
Sorry again, so to resume (English is not my native language). I have to create 2 general profile : - Plugged = 25W - Unplugged = 17W or 18W? It will be set in general and not per game? Correct? And I don't have to touch the other modes (Silent, Performance, Turbo) right? Buuuuut.... I can still use the other modes right? Sorry but I'm not really tech savy and I don't want to break the ROG Ally :( Thanks once again! I have subscribe to you.
Yes, you'll want it plugged in, then you set all 3 sliders to 25W (make sure you also click the 3 fan profile for both fans). Then you can unplug it and set it to 17W. Now it will automatically switch when plugged in vs unplugged. No need to mess with settings after that. It's not per game, so just one time should work for all games :) Yes you can use the other modes. However, Turbo runs extremely hot so I don't personally use it. I had the SD Card Reader fail in my first unit and I think it could have been heat related.
@@filt3rless thank you so much. Can you tell me then what are you using for both unplugged and plugged for AAA games? I'd like to run them with nice graphics
That is really strange, I'm able to use manual on battery. It even switches automatically when unplugged between watts I had set in Manual for battery.
I am planning on running a new watt test. If you'd like a sneak peak, here is how the Ally performs on Crysis going from 7W all the way to 35W: imgur.com/a/bD9GNNG. You can really see where it starts dropping off on the top end. I've been using 17W as my primary watt level, and 25W for extra performance when needed.
You're lowering the wattage to save temperature but these days it's honestly fine for components to reach upwards of 95°c. They're made to do that. Theres a reason they throttle at that max temp.Theres genuinely no reason you should limit the wattage unless the fan noise really bugs you. And when you're trying to squeeze as much performance as you can in a small package like this, you should be looking at 1% lows not an averge still frame. Sorry but this is just a bad benchmark and suggestion imo
I'm lowering the wattage because a 20% increase in power load, higher heat, and fan noise for less than a 5% performance improvement doesn't make sense, in my opinion. Also, heating the device up to 95c to get extra performance for 2 minutes on a gaming handheld doesn't make sense to me. When it's at 95c, try touching the screen, it's the hottest part of the entire device. Maybe it's designed for it, but I'd rather play it safe on a 1st generation device to get the maximum life span possible.
This is really a dumb statement. Everyone knows that heat kills conponents and battery. It is just stupid to say 95° is fine for cpu...its like its fine to drive the car constant at 6.000 to 7.000 rpm.
@@filt3rless5% increase minimum and at the top end of your FPS range the performance increase is hugely noticeable in many games even just 25w vs 30w boost I am seeing up to 10fps differencea
@@Xarviz These days, you're mostly incorrect. Heat is a problem but only at very high levels. They're designed to withstand temps of 95c, do the research. They wouldn't throttle AT 95c if it was dangerous to be at 95c. It's fine. 100+ I'd start getting concerned
You need to look at the minimum fps as well as the average fps to see the differences between 25 and 30w mode also not all games will have a 1 fps difference you only showed one title.
No update can fix the location of the sd card slot on the motherboard.Another mistake made by the designers and engineers.This is the biggest flop in handheld gaming history.
Игры
I just released the video about CPU Boost if you're interested in seeing what it does, and why I recommend disabling it: ruclips.net/video/e3Jd7PLuVSg/видео.html
How do you get it to recognize when to change mode for battery and plugged in my always defaults to performance and I have to manually change it to manual and then choose the wattage even though I have a 18 watt and 25 watt saved profile.
@@noifwoao You'll want to unplug it, then set all 3 sliders to manual mode @ 18 watts. Then plug it in, and set them to 25 watts. It's saving the profiles independently. If you've done that, then the issue is it will save watt settings on a per game basis. So if you've set it to performance in a certain game, it'll automatically go to performance when you launch that game.
Hover over one of the games you have in the Armoury Crate launcher and press the "X" button for "Game Profile". Then go down to "Configuration" on the left hand side. You'll see the "Operating mode AC" which is plugged in mode and the "Operating mode DC" which is unplugged. You can set them in there. They should save however after changing it in a game though. I really don't like how Asus has set this up, because I'm not seeing a way to set the profile across all games.
I might end up doing a video on it, as from what I can tell the controller profiles are doing the same thing, with no way to set it "globally" for games you've previously opened and changed the settings. Hope this helps, let me know if you run into any issues.
@@noifwoao That is really strange! I'm not sure what would be causing that. Make sure you don't have a game open when you set the power to manual (on both plugged in an unplugged). Also, try going to "Content" at the top and then clicking "Update Center" and see if there are any updates for Armoury Crate. It's possible you might be on an older version of Armoury Crate, let me know what you find :)
Figured it out for some reason it wasn't recognizing my charger as compatible even though I had it plugged into the charger that came with it so I moved it to a different plug on my power strip and now it works thank you.
Also after you get those set if you plug in an incompatible charger and unplug that charger it messes the settings all up and won't go back to the battery settings and stick with last known until you plug in a compatible charger or restart the Ally. Maybe a bug or windows thing or they just didn't program it to operate correctly with a charger below 65 watts correctly.
Your video helped me! Thanks for making. Really didn’t understand why the tearing was happening until you explained that it turns off at 60 Hz
I agree with you, I no longer use or see the need to use 30w turbo mode it didn't really give me huge improvement that made the extra heat worth it, I feel the sweet spot is 17w-20w like you said I get really good fps and temps without all the extra heat and power draw. I also had that screen tear issue and some games won't allow me to do 120hz but I found changing the stock 4g to 8g made a good improvement for me, no more lag and games run better for me with medium to high settings 👍🏻 just an idea I've been playing Arkham asylum at high settings @ 1080p 120hz with 60-62fps consistently with temps at 58-62°c all at 17w 👍🏻
Definitely a good tutorial here! I was playing The Crew 2, ultra settings and was getting a decent 28-30 fps while playing unplugged while still keeping the temps below 70°.
damn this channel is gunna blow up soon guaranteed . subbed and liked
Wow what a difference, thanks dude works greats on everything I throw at it and running 18w low power draw and I can tell the battery will be better......Subscribed!
Just found your videos this morning you're saving my R O G ally
Cheers for these settings bro these are great, all the best from sunny glasgow scotland 👍.
This really helped I’m a console gamer and this is my first handheld so I’m really new to this whole pc world but with these custom settings would I be able to play more intense games
I have a few myself I made a custom 13 watt mode for certain games to prioritize battery life even further like the accent was pretty decent performance at lowest graphics on 13 watts. Just depends if I’m gonna be near a outlet or if I have the portable power bank with me. But I usually do either a custom 15 watt mode that boosts to 20 for 10 seconds or my custom 18 watt mode that boosts to 20 or 25 for 10 seconds when on battery
Really good content mate
great explanation, simple instructions, i am not just very clear about fan part, did you select tab on option 3? you did not adjust fan curve or anything, right?
Bro really made the sticks even taller! Lol
Great video
Good stuff man! Whatcha got on your sticks and do they tighten up the stick or make them more comfortable? I really hate the joystick on this thing.
Thanks! Here is a link to the joystick extenders I bought. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079811C49/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. They are for PS5/PS4 and the Nintendo Pro Controller so they don't fit perfectly. I'd probably hold off for some specifically made for the ROG Ally.
For me they make them more comfortable, but they feel even looser with extenders on them. I'm sure there will be 3rd party joysticks at some point where we'll be able to replace them. I've taken apart the console and removed the Joysticks and it's not too hard to get to them. Asus has made it a lot easier to take apart than other devices I've seen.
If you set better and more aggressive fan curves, heat would be less of an issue and you could get more performance out of it
man thanks for your videos! SUB for sure!
very very good video. thanks for sharing!
25W - top, 18W - mid are the recommended wattage settings. What are the recommended settings for low wattage? 11 or 12?
Oh nice; this may help with some of the overheating problems I've been having. Wattage spikes would explain heat spikes under low load. Good tips!
Update a few days later: My overheating problem because interminable and I had to return the device and exchange it for a new one. As best I can tell, something was causing the CPU cores to boost their clocks stupidly high (up to about 4.3 ghz) on boot up, which caused a massive heat spike and crashed the Ally in only a few seconds. No idea what caused that but hopefully it doesn't happen to the new one.
Update 2 about a week and a half later: I've received my replacement unit and after wrestling with a bunch of software updates, I've disabled all CPU boosting in Windows following Filterless' video in the pinned comment and that appears to have fixed the heat spike problem that my first unit was having. I don't have an SD card to test on the new one, but so far it seems to have stabilized. Here's hoping it stays that way.
Hey, just so you know I just had to return mine because the SD Card Reader stopped working. I have a whole video I just released about it, where I go through and test it. I'm going to hold off on the exchange till I hear what Asus says about the SD Card issues.
With my testing I suspect it's heat that could have caused it, just like you said, it boost way to high and way too hot. What's annoying is I think Asus put the boost in there for benchmarks so it appears more powerful... Frustrating for sure.
No update can fix the location of the sd card slot on the motherboard.Another blunder by the engineers and the designers.This is the biggest flop in handheld gaming history.
@@uclapac10 Seems a little early in the device's lifespan to get melodramatic about its merits. I agree the SD card location makes it vulnerable to mechanical failure caused by excessive CPU heat, but some people's SD card reader issues have been caused by (and fixed via updates to) software and not hardware. I think calling the Ally a flop ignores a lot of the device's capability. The next month or two will be the real test of the product's viability as a whole, as we see just how committed Asus is to supporting the Ally and addressing customer concerns.
In the meantime, it's probably best to disable all CPU boosting to help prevent the both the overheating issue and possibly the SD card reader issue.
This is crazy Filterless. 2 watts difference from 15- 17w and we're seeing an offset of 20fps lol. Wow got my 18w profile made just now. You earned my sub/like..
It definitely is crazy how much just 2 watts can make! Thanks for stopping by and glad it helped :)
I didn't feel comfortable turning off cpu boost but I still used all the other settings for plugged in & unplugged
Hey i've got a quick question, so when i changed my settings to manual mode i applied 17w to unplugged and 25w when plug just like you did but when i go to the command centre and its on 17w it keeps up the menu manual mode settings of the fppt etc so i can change it on the fly but i don't want that how do i remove that still staying on there
When I'm setting up the sppt and fppt to 25 it resets to 30/43 whenever unplugged and plugged it in, any takes?
I actually would recommend custom power levels with 2 - 3 watts between each level.
Some games a few more watts can make all the difference and some really don't really need any more watts.
Thanks for the Vid, Very Helpful
thanks for the tips man. btw whats fan 1 2 and 3? are they just different level setting that you can set and you choose? so doesnt matter which one?
Yes, however, I wouldn't use 1 or 2, the default to the fans being way too low. I'd only use 3, or adjust the fans manually by dragging around the squares. I personally just use 3 and get great temperatures.
@@filt3rless thanks. on fan 1 level 3 i cant lower the speed when its on 80c its on 74% fan right now. is this from a update?
@@menmabmx1995 Yes, it's from BIOS 322. They're ramping up Fan 1 because it's near the SD Card reader to try and mitigate heat. I have a video on why I don't think it's a good solution: ruclips.net/video/bLkPKb9dwOw/видео.html
@@filt3rless ah thats kinda annoying fan is a lilttle loud but oh well hopefully they change that. manual mode change to auto lol.
How did you get the manual power plan in the command centre? I have set a manual 1 but on my command centre it only shows silent,performance and turbo, many thanks in advance and you got my sub, great vids my friend 👌
Cause you did not apply the manual mode in armoury crate. Once you set the power levels make sure to tap the icon which has the tick mark within a square box. It should give you a warning prompt. Click Ok to proceed. Then you will be able to see the manual mode in command Center too in the operating mode toggle button
I think that 3 watts is the difference.. I noticed the GPU is starved at 15 w. My 6800u GPU would be at 1800mhz at 15.
Thank you for your Videos.
I have a issued with my Fan curve... I tried to Change it but the 4th dot has to stay above 74.
Ive Seen many Pics in Reddit, and they all have IT below 74. Any clue why its fixed to stay above? Was there an Update?
and do you have the Same curve for Fan 1 and 2 or are they different?
They updated it in a bios update to force it to 74 unfortunately. Because of an SD Card issue. So it was an update. It was bios 322 that caused that, and it's still present in 323. So you'd have to roll back to 317. But then you'd loose some performance as bios 323 really boosted lower watt performance.
What's the video about CPU boost? In Dragon's Dogma, it runs better on the Deck on high settings than it does on the Ally, I notice the GPU being underutilised.
Here is the video I just made about CPU boost: ruclips.net/video/e3Jd7PLuVSg/видео.html
How do u have higher values for the watts in manual mode?
Great vid dude! Highly appreciate it
Doesn’t shifting from 60hz to 120hz (even though FPS doesn’t hit 120), drain battery faster? For example if I cap FPS at 45, does battery drain faster if I toggle 60 to 120hz?
Hey, glad the video helped! From my understanding if you have the FPS capped at 45FPS, you'd actually save some battery life, since the display is matching the 45FPS and will refresh at 45Hz. However, I'd say it'd be almost impossible to notice any power draw difference between the two when gaming because of how small the difference would be. The power levels you're running and FPS in game will be of far more importance.
So capping the FPS to 45 in a game that could push 80+ or so will be a huge improvement in battery, but switching between 60hz and 120hz, you probably won't see much difference if at all. If you were planning to watch a movie or RUclips however, 60Hz would give you longer battery life and I would recommend switching it for video watching. As you're only seeing 60Hz (or even less in some movies) and theres no reason to have it running at 120Hz as FreeSync doesn't work for videos.
If this helps: In my phone (ROG Phone 6 165hz) the ARM SoC which maxes out at about 12~15w in very heavy use capping the refresh of the screen to 60 does improve battery life while the phone is not in use for about a day (sleeping), but in normal use or even gaming unless the game pushes framerate higher than 60FPS the refresh rate of the screen doesn't have any meaninful difference in battery life. In my laptop with a 144 hz screen and having a CPU that can push about 40w (although i do cap to 29.5w because of diminishing returns using ThrottleStop in TPL menu) the refresh rate play too little if anything in battery life even if i a cap to 60 hertz, screen brightness and even the speakers consumes more power than the screen refresh rate.
@@filt3rless thanks! Makes sense 😁
@@M4RC0Geekthanks for the details!
Bro thank you, I can play starfield with great FPS and no overheating
Even though i set the watts at 18 but it still goes above 25 watts .
Any clue
Hey man, cool videos! Question for you about the fan curves. I still can’t wrap my head around how to make a good fan curve for the custom TDP’s that I’m creating.
I’m trying to create a few manual TDP’s in 18w, 22w, and 25w and I understand it’s better to set all 3 values to the same so that the unnecessary boost mode is disabled in each of them. So it would be 18w / 18w / 18w and 22w / 22w / 22w and 25w / 25w / 25w for each of my custom TDP.
I’m just not sure now what the fan curves should be set at for each of those wattages?
You said that the fan curve 3 preset is pretty good and what you use, could I just use that across the board for all 3 of the manual TDP’s or would that only apply for certain wattages? What fan curve would be the best to do for my 3 manual 18w, 22w and 25w TDP’s? Would love for you to make a video in future going into the whole creating fan curves thing and how they work, for us newbies.
Hey the level "3" profile on both fans works great, even on BIOS 322. Although it's a bit louder now on Bios 322 because of them ramping the fan up more (probably because of the SD Card issues). You can always ramp up the fans even more, but if the system is running in the 70's, then it's good. Technically it can handle even hotter temperatures, and Asus allows it to hit 95c for the first 2 minutes in Turbo mode. So manually locking the watts means you're already well below the temps people are getting that don't lock them. I still just use the level 3 fan profile and have great temps.
Make sure you select level 3 for each manual setting (it resets the fan curves for each new custom profile). So you'll need to set both fans to 3 for each profile (18w, 22w & 25w).
Perfect, I’ll give it a try and see how it goes. Thanks for the help!
nice test
Yoi think this might help with the micro sd card not gettting all over heated and not working
Thank you so much
🔥
thanks for this tip! What sensors are you using to monitor CPU & total system power?
Hey, it's just the default monitor. If you hit the second little button on the left to bring up the menu, you'll see a thing you can click, I believe called "Monitor" that will bring up the same little box you're seeing on mine.
Thank you! Can I use the 17W for every games?
Yes, if you like the 17 watt profile you can set it at that, and then always run it at 17 watts for everything :) If you're getting low FPS however, it could be worth bumping it up between 20-25. I don't recommend 30 though as there isn't much gain for the additional watts/temperature.
I just noticed that when u unplugged it, it automatically switched to 18W on manual mode. How did you get it to do that? I basically want to do exactly like your settings; 25W on AC and 18W on DC without having to enter armory crate and selecting from the manual mode drop down list :)
When you unplug it, you can go in and set the Manual mode to 18w. You have to set the 25w when it's plugged in, then the 18w while it's unplugged. Also, only the official charger/dock has worked for me. When I use 3rd party adapters/chargers, it stays in the same power mode when plugged in and unplugged. It's only on the official charger that it'll automatically switch. Hope this helps! :)
@@filt3rless That is exactly what happened with me. When I used the official charger it worked (changes automatically), and when I used JSAUX it doesn't change (need to do it manually for now). Thanks for confirming! I highly appreciate it :)
What fan curve should I keep for 17watts? I couldn’t find that in your video
I think he said set it to 3
I didn't test if setting refresh on screen to 120hz drains more battery, but I find turning on vsync will also fix the tearing
Hey, V-Sync definitely does reduce tearing. I've notice it adds some latency though in most of the games I enabled it in (the input takes longer to take effect). So I usually leave it off for that reason and just use 120Hz and freesync as it does basically the same thing, but without the added input latency. Give it a shot if you have time and see what you think :)
@filt3rless yep it does but I guess for me it's not enough of a problem, the only reason I go this route is to save more battery, but although I haven't really tested this or see how much more it drains, it just makes sense that way unless you've noticed no difference?
@filt3rless also to add that 18watt does make a difference and drains a little less as I have a 20 watt mode set on mine that literally gives a frame or two more battery. I don know what the point of 25 watt mode is. In the several games I tested it only gives 3-6 frames more but drains significantly more battery. Asus needs to tune those power modes even more
Uncapping the framerate is a better option because it will feel smoother due to VRR it will feel smoother due to frame time being more stable, and it should in theory save battery due to the screen matching the refresh rate instead of being at 60 at all times
@pogchamp4542 more fps will need more power and kill battery quicker right? If a game dances around 65-75fps fluctuations cause instability rather than capping it at 60 fps keeping it stable and using less power necessary
well done tutorial ! GPU Settings is better on 4GB or 8 GB?
I've been working on a video about this. Most games it doesn't make much difference, but there are a select few where it does. One of them being Dirt Rally 2.0. At 4GB I got (94 FPS Avg / 80 FPS 1% lows) and at 8GB I got (121 FPS Avg / 99 FPS 1% lows).
pretty counterintuitive ro enable 120hz while fixing battery issue sicne 120 hz uses more battery. a little tearings fine if u want more battery duration per charge.
From my understanding of free sync the display is matching the FPS of the game. So in this game it's actually running at 45Hz. If you set it to 60Hz, it constantly runs at 60Hz no matter what. So you'd be able to actually save battery as well as reduce tearing if you're below 60Hz. Now if you're running something at 120FPS, or watching videos (RUclips, Netflix) then 60Hz is a great option if you want to conserve battery. And if you set it to 60Hz, you can turn on V-Sync and it'll cap the FPS to 60Hz. The "FPS Limiter" is basically useless on this, which I was thinking about making a video on because it doesn't work in Direct X games (which is most games). So something like MSI Afterburner with RTSS would allow you to cap the FPS across all games.
For some odd reason when I put 2 profiles like yours - 18watts/25watts when i change to each other it will break the other profile :/ will only remember SPL and the rest is still on 25watts.
also, after a day or two the profiles were completely disappeared.
I've noticed this as well. However, after you set it across the board it should hold those levels. It's only when you go back into the profile that it will jump the other sliders back. It acts weird, I don't know what's going on with Armoury Crate. I'd say just set the levels across the board, load up a game and see if it's actually boosting. If not, you should be good to go, mine seems to be working properly and I just leave it alone after I have it set. As soon as I start dragging sliders or going back into manual it seems to want to push the 2 sliders on the right back up.
Hey man my manual settings dont swap when I go from plugged to unplugged, did I hear that wrong or is that supposed to work?
Are you using the official charger? You'll have to change the settings when plugged in vs unplugged, then it should automatically switch. However, if you're using a 3rd party charger and/or dock it won't switch. It stays in the battery setting. I usually use a Steam Deck charger on the go, and it doesn't switch. On the official one though, it does switch.
I made my own 17W and not heat not suttering no Fan noise 😊😊
when I manually set to 18 watts and leave the AC Control Panel and switch back to the game, it falls back to the Standard 15Watt mode after some seconds without touching anything after that. do you know whats the problem here??
When you set the power levels make sure you don't have a game open. Then any games where you've already set a power profile, you'll need to change to the one you want. Games save the power profile you set per game, so if you were playing retro games, you could have a "Silent" profile and it remembers that and will auto switch. Any new games though should inherit the settings you set with no games open. So you should just have to change it for games that you've opened before you set the power limits.
Also, if you hover over the game in the Armoury Crate launcher, you can hit "X" to bring up the settings and you should see "Configuration" where you can change the AC and DC power settings for that game. I wiped my device last night due to an issue I'm troubleshooting so I don't have Armoury Crate installed right now. Let me know if this helps though, if not I'll be able to give you more detail once I get it installed again :)
There is something that I don't understand. What's the point of putting 25 watt in manual mode when the console is plugged in? because when it is plugged in there is no need to save battery power and it is in 30 watt turbo mode. what's the point of putting 25 watts when it's plugged in???
can you suggest a powerbank which i can use to play at turbo 30 or 35 watt
--Edit
I believe I misinterpreted what you were asking. Like Wash said below any 65 watt should work. However it probably won't automatically switch to the "plugged in" power profile like it does with the official charger. So if you have it set to "Turbo" when plugged in and "Performance" when unplugged, you'll have to manually switch this when not using the official power adapter/dock.
Also, the manual settings will be locked to 25W. This is because there is a weird issue where Asus isn't properly recognizing most 3rd party chargers/docks. Hopefully ASUS fixes this in the future.
--Original Comment
Hey, I'm not sure there is one right now. For some reason Asus seems to be limiting 3rd party docks. So even if you have enough power being supplied, it won't "recognize" it.
Hopefully they fix this in an update, but the only time I've been able to draw max power is on the ROG Ally Dock (which I have a video unboxing of) and the official charger that came with the ROG Ally.
There could be a bank out there where the Asus will recognize it, but I currently don't know of any.
I don't think he answered your question. A power bank doesn't need to be recognized. It's going to supply power if the power lines are connected. Just pick up a nice power bank that says it charges at 65w.
I also have no issue using the two hubs I have with it.
Is 18w is good for cooling the fans while still playin any games?
I think 18W is a great number. I personally use 17W, but either one good for performance/battery.
battery?
Can you tell me what is the game you are playing? Sorry for the noob question
He's playing Subnautica, an underwater survival game from a few years ago. Not a noob question, no worries :)
Framerate increasing when you looked up to the sky where there is not much to render...
The way I see it:
- Steam Deck: a proper portable device, scales really well, can be used for mouse based games & gamepad games but not designed for AAA games
- ROG Ally: horrific battery life means it's not really that portable and since only 18W is efficient and scales really badly when you move away from this, it's pretty much designed to run more demanding games that the Steam Deck can't run BUT only gamepad games mostly
The battery is really the big problem with the Ally. I would have preferred a heavier Ally with a better battery myself. Wanting to beat the Steam Deck in weight and then getting TROUNCED in battery life was not the right move.
I agree, the Steam Deck handles games at low wattage really well. When I loaded up Dirt Rally 2.0 and saw 1.2 watts for the CPU and 2-3 watts for the GPU, with a total system draw under 15 watts at 40FPS, medium settings, I realized just how crazy good the Steam Deck is with power. But, the Freesync and raw performance of the Ally is something I like. Plus I can't get some games working properly on the Steam Deck, like Horizon 4, still stutters and can't do 60FPS.
Man, I have one very last question 😅 Once plugged into the wall, only the Turbo Mode is affected by the boost right?
I wanted to create a custom profile which will replace the Performance Mode from 15W to 18W and the Turbo Mode I would like to do 25W unplugged and 28W plugged.
Is this possible too? And if yes, what fan profile should I use for the 2 profiles I told you?
Also, once plugged, Silent Mode, Performance Mode remains unchanged in comparison to being unplugged. I mean for example Silent Mode, Turbo Mode unplugged and plugged will use the same watts right? Only Turbo Mode is affected by the watts changes when plugged, I've got this right?
Tldr: I want to replace the standard Performance Mode and Turbo Mode only, is this doable ?
Thanks once again and sorry for these questions but I'm getting anxious and I want to be sure I won't mess my machine once I received it this week ❤
Use "3" for the fan profiles if you're not sure what you're doing. If you set Manual while plugged in, it'll always go to Manual when you plug it in, unless you switch it to something else, like Silent, Performance. Same for battery, if you set Manual mode it's a separate one for battery. So while plugged in you can have Manual set at 25 watts, and then unplugged it can be 18 watts. It will automatically switch back and forth. However, if you change it to "Silent" on battery, it will remember that and automatically choose "Silent" while on battery until you set it back to Manual.
@@filt3rless ok and how many profiles can we create? Seems like I will have to create 2 or 3
Thankyou brother i followed your guide for manual mode 17w i done 10 less fan than the degress up until 60c and then it maches and basically maxes fan out at 70/75c i think not fully tested yet but gone from silent fans to actually hearing them 😂😂 rather a cool bit louder device than a red hot less of a life span silent device 😂
At 53w the Performance is for 10 secounds 20% Higher than 30w.
Jeeze, that's almost 80% more power for 20% performance! I had my SD Card Reader burn out (at least from what I can tell). Planning to get another one soon, but with a warranty.
Do your fans also turn up more in manual mode?
On the new Bios 322 they definitely do. On the older 317/319 Bios they stayed a lot quieter than when the device was in Turbo mode, and it ran cooler.
@@filt3rless
Thanks🤟🥳
What bios build are you on? 319?
This is on 319. I have a video I filmed after this where I test 317 vs 319, there is a slight difference in some games but not enough to be worth it IMO unless there is a specific game you're having issues with. I've since re-upgraded to 319 and haven't noticed any performance issues in a variety of games.
Sorry again, so to resume (English is not my native language).
I have to create 2 general profile :
- Plugged = 25W
- Unplugged = 17W or 18W?
It will be set in general and not per game? Correct?
And I don't have to touch the other modes (Silent, Performance, Turbo) right? Buuuuut.... I can still use the other modes right? Sorry but I'm not really tech savy and I don't want to break the ROG Ally :(
Thanks once again! I have subscribe to you.
Yes, you'll want it plugged in, then you set all 3 sliders to 25W (make sure you also click the 3 fan profile for both fans). Then you can unplug it and set it to 17W. Now it will automatically switch when plugged in vs unplugged. No need to mess with settings after that. It's not per game, so just one time should work for all games :)
Yes you can use the other modes. However, Turbo runs extremely hot so I don't personally use it. I had the SD Card Reader fail in my first unit and I think it could have been heat related.
@@filt3rless thank you so much. Can you tell me then what are you using for both unplugged and plugged for AAA games? I'd like to run them with nice graphics
@@JeremyBDE I use 18 watts unplugged and 25 watts plugged in :)
Just leave it to 120hz for VRR. Why use this workarround to get 60hz VRR? Also LFC isnt working in 60hz.
That's what I said in the video, to turn it to 120Hz and leave it there. I had it on 60Hz only to show why you shouldn't use 60Hz.
me just running 30 watts and a powerbanks lol
Am I the only one who can't toggle manual mode on battery?
That is really strange, I'm able to use manual on battery. It even switches automatically when unplugged between watts I had set in Manual for battery.
@@filt3rless It's working now. Guess I needed an update
Will there be an update to this?
I am planning on running a new watt test. If you'd like a sneak peak, here is how the Ally performs on Crysis going from 7W all the way to 35W: imgur.com/a/bD9GNNG. You can really see where it starts dropping off on the top end. I've been using 17W as my primary watt level, and 25W for extra performance when needed.
@@filt3rless thank you
Will you still be doing an update on these settings?
What game is this?
It's a game called Subnautica. Underwater survival/builder type game.
I don't understand how you have it above 30
its the cpu boost, and dont last very long
It’s the power boost, it has 3 tdp power settings. Regular power then the 2 boosts. 1 boost is a few seconds and the other is a few minutes.
You're lowering the wattage to save temperature but these days it's honestly fine for components to reach upwards of 95°c. They're made to do that. Theres a reason they throttle at that max temp.Theres genuinely no reason you should limit the wattage unless the fan noise really bugs you. And when you're trying to squeeze as much performance as you can in a small package like this, you should be looking at 1% lows not an averge still frame. Sorry but this is just a bad benchmark and suggestion imo
I'm lowering the wattage because a 20% increase in power load, higher heat, and fan noise for less than a 5% performance improvement doesn't make sense, in my opinion. Also, heating the device up to 95c to get extra performance for 2 minutes on a gaming handheld doesn't make sense to me. When it's at 95c, try touching the screen, it's the hottest part of the entire device. Maybe it's designed for it, but I'd rather play it safe on a 1st generation device to get the maximum life span possible.
Not to mention high rog ally temps currently frying sd cards
This is really a dumb statement. Everyone knows that heat kills conponents and battery. It is just stupid to say 95° is fine for cpu...its like its fine to drive the car constant at 6.000 to 7.000 rpm.
@@filt3rless5% increase minimum and at the top end of your FPS range the performance increase is hugely noticeable in many games even just 25w vs 30w boost I am seeing up to 10fps differencea
@@Xarviz These days, you're mostly incorrect. Heat is a problem but only at very high levels. They're designed to withstand temps of 95c, do the research. They wouldn't throttle AT 95c if it was dangerous to be at 95c. It's fine. 100+ I'd start getting concerned
You need to look at the minimum fps as well as the average fps to see the differences between 25 and 30w mode also not all games will have a 1 fps difference you only showed one title.
No update can fix the location of the sd card slot on the motherboard.Another mistake made by the designers and engineers.This is the biggest flop in handheld gaming history.
Dude what? The ally is amazing
Thank you so much