This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
I watched this a couple of times in preparation for mounting a Navien NPE-180S. There are a lot of comments below about lack of sediment trap on the gas lines, or white teflon tape on the gas line, or using paste in conjunction with tape. The important thing for me is the technique used to install the valves which, btw, is the title of the video. There are plenty of videos on the merits of paste vs. tape, yellow tape for gas lines, how to's on sediment traps, and more - go watch those videos! I apprecicate Charman for putting together this video. Like others below it helped me get my unit ready while highlighting important considerations such as the relief valve, using two wrenches, etc.
Very nice video but when using Teflon and pipe dope teflon is a thread lubricant to keep threads from binding and pipe dope is a thread sealant what should be applied after Teflon tape, there's also Teflon impregnated pipe dope which can be used by itself. I also noticed during your install there is no drip leg on your gas line before your valve, I felt this was worth mentioning to not only meet code but for safety. in one of these videos I would like to eventually see somebody include the 120 volt connection as well as the thermostat connection and the venting.
Thanks, good informative video. This is how i would hook mine up when i get it. My current water is hooked up this way. Other video's show soldering copper connections only, just a pain if you're not an experienced plumber.
This type A tankless water heater doesn't need or requires a duct for vent. There isn't a 120 volts power cord because the appliance probably runs with a couple of two 1.5 volts batteries or it has a hydropower water valve that generates voltage to activate the gas valve and the Sparks module. The gas line is missing the safety valve that is supposed to be handy near the unit.
Where does the pressure relief valve drain to? Any drain pipe? What circumstances would cause that dangerous increase in pressure? How does flushing work? After you drain the tank what do you do? Where would you attach a filter for sediment or hard water?
Our old on demand / tank-less water heater system is messed up. This one has a recalculation pump. It seem we only get hot water when another hot water tap is open than it seems to heat water fine than after a minute the water flow completely shuts off. If I turn the hot water valve off for a minute or so it will turn on with good flow for about a minute than completely shuts off the water flow. Anyone every had this issue, and how did you fix it ? Thanks
Tape is to keep from having threads bind up, paste is a thread sealant. you should be using tape first and paste after if you're going to do it that way, otherwise only use paste by itself.
im trying to put this in my house. reserching it ... but why did you put it that high? the tubes make it look ugly? would it be best to doit hidden or theres a reason why it wasent done like that? thanks
It's not a modern art piece. You have to be able to access those "tubes" to service it every six months, good luck tearing down your walls and not being able to see leaks with your hidden plumbing.
The whole point is to attach the hoses first which necessitates taking off the caps prior to turning to flush. Otherwise water from the tank is going to run everywhere instead of in the bucket.
Look for Webstone valves on the internet. Amazon sells them, as do several plumbing supply houses who have HVAC equipment. There are several different sizes etc. so be sure you get the ones for 3/4 " supply for Tankless Water heaters. A set of the valves for tankless heaters will cost about $80. They are quality made, with two ball valves for each unit (one unit for hot water, one for cold). Well worth it. Then to use them to flush your Tankless heater, go to Harbor Freight tools or a big box store and buy what you need to end up with two 3-4-foot lengths of regular garden hose with a female connector on one end if each, and a $15 small water pump (a submersible pump used for your backyard fish pond works fine ...) Get what ever fitting is needed to connect one of those garden hose pieces to the pump you purchase. (hose barb or whatever). One of those orange Home Depot 5 gal buckets is useful too. With the Webstone valves, the pump and two bits of hose, (plus a gallon of vinegar) you've got all you need to easily flush your heater. Turn off your tankless heater. Using the Webstone flush valve, connect the tankless hot water side to your new little pump, and the tankless cold water outlet (the flush outlet on the Webstone valve) to the other hose. Close the big ball valves on the Webstone to isolate the tankless heater, then open both of the flushing valves on the Webstone units. Put both hoses in a bucket with the vinegar and let it circulate for 45-60 minutes. When done, close the cold water flush valve, disconnect your pump from the end of the hot water flushing hose, and open the main valve for cold water to flush out the vinegar from your tankless heater with fresh water.
These valve thingys are way expensive. You mean I can't just use a, "T", an in line shut off. Even 2, "T's" Has to be less than $70. What am I missing?
Excellent clean precise Installation Video, except you dropped your voice volume on a couple of spots. I'll try yo augment it. 🙏. Sorry I have 0 Experience do I was hsning on your every word. Where does, Scale Retardent Water Filter System Go?
No such thing it's all the same tape Just different colors and thickness I'm sure a lot will disagree with me and say yellow is gas , white or blue for water and blablablabla. ITS ALL TEFLON TAPE.
For heaven's sake people don't use the Teflon tape - Pipefitter for life and experience speaking. Alson the tape manufactures state if your using tape to only apply 1 and 1/2 rounds of it.
I have never seen pipe dope AND teflon tape (5 wraps, too) applied to a single threaded connection before and I've worked with plumbers, steam fitters, boilermakers, and sprinkler fitters for 39 years. Was this overkill or is that spec'd by the code?
Not one valve....... not 2 valves....... 3 valves folks because why not spend your hard earned money on redundancy. Looks cool but I'll go ahead and just use that existing valve down there on the bottom and call it a day. I like breaking rules and pissing people off though so don't listen to me
Now just sit back and get ready for your first electric bill. Our current rate is $.26 per kilowatt hang on. And after about eight months, get the tools back out to disconnect everything again, and flush out all of your lines in your whole house from the build up.🧰🛠️🔧💵💵💵💵💵
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
I don't "Give a Like" or "Thumbs Up" often but this video deserves it. Amazingly delivered and explained.
Excellent video, it s nice to see that there are still good crafts-men.
I watched this a couple of times in preparation for mounting a Navien NPE-180S. There are a lot of comments below about lack of sediment trap on the gas lines, or white teflon tape on the gas line, or using paste in conjunction with tape. The important thing for me is the technique used to install the valves which, btw, is the title of the video. There are plenty of videos on the merits of paste vs. tape, yellow tape for gas lines, how to's on sediment traps, and more - go watch those videos! I apprecicate Charman for putting together this video. Like others below it helped me get my unit ready while highlighting important considerations such as the relief valve, using two wrenches, etc.
I would really love to see you do an instructional video on mounting and venting. You do very very good with detail!
Very nice video but when using Teflon and pipe dope teflon is a thread lubricant to keep threads from binding and pipe dope is a thread sealant what should be applied after Teflon tape, there's also Teflon impregnated pipe dope which can be used by itself. I also noticed during your install there is no drip leg on your gas line before your valve, I felt this was worth mentioning to not only meet code but for safety. in one of these videos I would like to eventually see somebody include the 120 volt connection as well as the thermostat connection and the venting.
Thanks, good informative video. This is how i would hook mine up when i get it. My current water is hooked up this way. Other video's show soldering copper connections only, just a pain if you're not an experienced plumber.
Thank you for that left right connectors information
One of the best tutorials. Thank you so much.
The dust caps should face outward for connecting the system flush hoses.
Thanks very informative, God bless you and your family!
Excellent and very informative video!! Very detailed! Very Very helpful!!
Excellent and very informative
Good job! Nice explanation
Excellent video very good explanation and details.
Very good instructions.
This walkthrough is amazing and on point. Thank you!
Great instructions!
Wanted to leave my sincere thanks. After watching this tutorial, I feel confident about my diy instal. Great job.
Thanks Nice video. It helped a lot. PS. you don't have a sediment trap for you gas line.
This type A tankless water heater doesn't need or requires a duct for vent.
There isn't a 120 volts power cord because the appliance probably runs with a couple of two 1.5 volts batteries or it has a hydropower water valve that generates voltage to activate the gas valve and the Sparks module.
The gas line is missing the safety valve that is supposed to be handy near the unit.
I want to buy that valve kit. Please post a link.
can your hot water outake and the pressure valve be combined? I dont have a seperate line for the pressure valve
Good Job
Plumbers Creed ...If your starting to fight, back off and realign.
Where does the pressure relief valve drain to? Any drain pipe? What circumstances would cause that dangerous increase in pressure? How does flushing work? After you drain the tank what do you do? Where would you attach a filter for sediment or hard water?
Our old on demand / tank-less water heater system is messed up. This one has a recalculation pump. It seem we only get hot water when another hot water tap is open than it seems to heat water fine than after a minute the water flow completely shuts off. If I turn the hot water valve off for a minute or so it will turn on with good flow for about a minute than completely shuts off the water flow. Anyone every had this issue, and how did you fix it ? Thanks
The thread dope is good enough no more tape is needed
hi, do i need to use a reducer coupler 3/4" to 1/2") if my house water line is 1/2" to fit the cold water input side of the service valve? thanks.
Your house main should be 3/4 or bigger or you're not looking at the main trunk
Either paste OR tape on joints surely? Counter productive for either bonding properties...
Tape is to keep from having threads bind up, paste is a thread sealant. you should be using tape first and paste after if you're going to do it that way, otherwise only use paste by itself.
Shouldn't there be a check valve on the cold water line?
no flushing connections?
im trying to put this in my house. reserching it ... but why did you put it that high? the tubes make it look ugly? would it be best to doit hidden or theres a reason why it wasent done like that? thanks
It's not a modern art piece. You have to be able to access those "tubes" to service it every six months, good luck tearing down your walls and not being able to see leaks with your hidden plumbing.
@@dogelife7901 wow makes sence well said ...
Thanks! what about install with PVC?
Never
@@DDunc1020 CPVC?
Shouldn't you turn to flush position BEFORE you take off the caps?????
The whole point is to attach the hoses first which necessitates taking off the caps prior to turning to flush. Otherwise water from the tank is going to run everywhere instead of in the bucket.
Black iron pipe for water feeds ??? Since when ?
Came here to say just that. Hello, Rusty Waters!
No mention of venting or condensate draining?
No, I wouldn't expect so. The video is called "Tankless Water Heater Valve kit Tutorial" after all.
Como conecto la electrecidad.
Where can I get this valve kit?
Look for Webstone valves on the internet. Amazon sells them, as do several plumbing supply houses who have HVAC equipment. There are several different sizes etc. so be sure you get the ones for 3/4 " supply for Tankless Water heaters. A set of the valves for tankless heaters will cost about $80. They are quality made, with two ball valves for each unit (one unit for hot water, one for cold). Well worth it. Then to use them to flush your Tankless heater, go to Harbor Freight tools or a big box store and buy what you need to end up with two 3-4-foot lengths of regular garden hose with a female connector on one end if each, and a $15 small water pump (a submersible pump used for your backyard fish pond works fine ...) Get what ever fitting is needed to connect one of those garden hose pieces to the pump you purchase. (hose barb or whatever). One of those orange Home Depot 5 gal buckets is useful too.
With the Webstone valves, the pump and two bits of hose, (plus a gallon of vinegar) you've got all you need to easily flush your heater. Turn off your tankless heater. Using the Webstone flush valve, connect the tankless hot water side to your new little pump, and the tankless cold water outlet (the flush outlet on the Webstone valve) to the other hose. Close the big ball valves on the Webstone to isolate the tankless heater, then open both of the flushing valves on the Webstone units. Put both hoses in a bucket with the vinegar and let it circulate for 45-60 minutes. When done, close the cold water flush valve, disconnect your pump from the end of the hot water flushing hose, and open the main valve for cold water to flush out the vinegar from your tankless heater with fresh water.
.....One of my favorite activity!.... ("Nipple snugging") Most Americans agree: We NEED "BETTER nipple access!!"....
for goodness sake, use the teflon tape and toss the paste
These valve thingys are way expensive. You mean I can't just use a, "T", an in line shut off. Even 2, "T's" Has to be less than $70. What am I missing?
what about the vent?
tighten em up with a set of channys
Excellent clean precise Installation Video, except you dropped your voice volume on a couple of spots. I'll try yo augment it. 🙏.
Sorry I have 0 Experience do I was hsning on your every word.
Where does, Scale Retardent Water Filter System Go?
Forgot to tighten gas line!
I think you used the wrong tape on the gas line
No such thing it's all the same tape
Just different colors and thickness
I'm sure a lot will disagree with me and say yellow is gas , white or blue for water and blablablabla. ITS ALL TEFLON TAPE.
Mal. 1 sola llave en la entrada de agua es suficiente. Faltan uniones desarmables también llamadas doble uniones
For heaven's sake people don't use the Teflon tape - Pipefitter for life and experience speaking. Alson the tape manufactures state if your using tape to only apply 1 and 1/2 rounds of it.
I have never seen pipe dope AND teflon tape (5 wraps, too) applied to a single threaded connection before and I've worked with plumbers, steam fitters, boilermakers, and sprinkler fitters for 39 years.
Was this overkill or is that spec'd by the code?
Not sure about your water connections, but your using the wrong pipe dope & Teflon tape on the Gas connections.
"nice and perdy..." Ahhhh Americans. Lol
We're mostly harmless and whimsical.
@@jamietodd2560 Haha, tell that to capitol hill
JustinTrojan “Mostly”
Terrible placement of valves for access to the cleaning ports down the road. Otherwise great video.
ITS ILLEGAL TO INSTALL A WATER FLEX LINE ON THE T&P
Gas....goodbye!
I don't think so! No sediment trap for the gas? Hack job.
There is no sound from this clip!! last one played one and I have checked my speakers!!
David Mortaz check your system as sound comes through nice and clear on my iPad
I can barely hear your narration.
Not one valve....... not 2 valves....... 3 valves folks because why not spend your hard earned money on redundancy. Looks cool but I'll go ahead and just use that existing valve down there on the bottom and call it a day. I like breaking rules and pissing people off though so don't listen to me
Now just sit back and get ready for your first electric bill. Our current rate is $.26 per kilowatt hang on. And after about eight months, get the tools back out to disconnect everything again, and flush out all of your lines in your whole house from the build up.🧰🛠️🔧💵💵💵💵💵