Great video. You are real professional plumber. You know how to be careful to check the gas leak before making tightening pipe without any further leak. Congratulations!
Great help. I have 90%of my Rinnai water heater hooked up. Now I have the confidence to finish the installation after re-reading the installation manual. Thank you!
Ive been installing tankless water heaters for over thirty years they have come along way but depending on your water quality my suggestion is buy two heaters because when something goes wrong it can take days to get parts if happens Friday order parts on Monday could take four of r five days no hot water trust me
Im a licensed master plumber and trained by rinnai us as a level 4 tech. I can tell you number 1 the gas line is undersized. Unless you installed the lowest btu possible unit your probably running 150,000btu min. You should be running a 1” gas line from the meter to the tankless directly depending on the length an material it could be larger. Second the flue although spaced properly which is good unfortunately it’s in an inside corner which will cause the exhaust to periodically be sucked into the intake which is bad news for the burn chamber.
Yep, another Carpenter playing Licensed Plumber. No issue with insurance and permits? HA! So many issues... No Plumbing Permit No Gas Permit Sch 40 pvc no longer legal to use (at least here in MASS!) for the guys exhaust No Liability Insurance Push to fit valves Valves under heater not for "draining" but for annual flushing of the heat exchanger Condensate not proper I could go on and on... He is qualified to run those 2x4's down from the floor joist though. Not doing his family any favors here.
@@tomhill9027 This install would never pass inspection in Colorado or not in my county anyways. The issues you mentioned plus a couple more. Rinnai and Rheem both teach a very different setup and installation that would meet code. I usually do not comment but that install would make me nervous. The homeowner can pull a permit personally, but that would fail instantly with about six violations or unacceptable items. I guess as long as it works and nobody gets hurt.
Hey man I wanna tell you I enjoy your videos. Like you I have just build my post frame house in southern indiana. Worked on it every day for the last 6 months and it's coming to a close. I have had help from a couple family members. Every time I come up the driveway my sense of accomplishment is like nothing I have ever felt. Thanks for your videos I found alot of inspiration when times got tough by watching your videos. Also alot of good ideas and tips along the way. You have been a real blessing to me and my project.
Should take off the cover and check for gas leaks inside the unit, the manufacturers work needs to be field checked and twisting on water tank gas connection without a proper hold wrench can twist the connections inside the tankless unit and cause leaks. When tightening fittings in close areas always use two wrenches.
I have never had a tankless, have had water heaters installed myself pretty easy (last one cost me $600) lasted about 10-15 years little maintenance. Tankless DYI like this guy if not you probably need to get some pro to install $3k to $6k. 1 )Biggest selling point of tankless used to be instant hot water (I was always skeptical-how!?) now it comes to light that that is bogus... 2) Also big energy cost savings $8 a month = that will take 50 years to pay for itself. Total no brainer for me (my opinion vast majority of people) tank water heater until tankless gets way way cheaper which doesn't seem to be anytime soon.
Well tony d..would like to go see u buy a tank heater now for 600 bucks u would end up with a 40 gallon cheapy from manards that would only last u prolly 8 years if u lucky & that would be no where as efficient..and yes if the unit is hooked up properly & every thing is sized accordingly or unit is not undersized u will get hot water to the fixture very quickly..far as only saving 8 bucks a month on cost to run I would say that's a little off as well.. considering the tankless does not need to hold water and continuously heat it as a tank type does or take the amount of time the tank type does to get u up and running to have hot water again after your teenager drains it with half hour showers or more..also most likely depending on what u would need to keep up with your use load u would only spend around $1500 for a quality brand tankless not 3 to 6k..well add around 3 hundred bucks or so for the material still way under plus u do your own like u said so save ton on labor too right..
@@christopherhaak9824 when we were looking for a new water heater about a year ago we were looking at a power event or a tankless and we found that Richmond who sold both sold the tankless for cheaper. That’s what we ended up with and we like it a lot more than a tank
My wife and I occasionally stay at a friends guest house which is above a garage. The tankless unit id directly below the barh faucet? Maybe 6 ft of run. It takes 42 seconds to get hot water. And whenntaking a shower if anyone turns on another faucet you know it by the temo drop. And do not turn off the shower to soap up or the cold water sandwitch will give you a rude awakening.
done this many times when I worked in residential. There are a few things people need to consider before switching to one of these, first, if your house is still plumbed in old galvanized pipe forget getting a tankless unless your going to rip it all out and replumb in copper. secondly you need to have the right size gas line available and the BTUH available to run the tankless. I have seen on some small houses with small meters that have multiple gas burning appliances run out of gas cfm running multiple appliances while trying to run the tankless. I personally run both the intake and exhaust at the same angle just for the symmetry of railroad tracking the lines but to each their own.
@@jeffhuntley2921 The problem with galvanized pipe is that it rusts closed and restricts the water flow. Tankless water heaters heat large volumes of water with high delta T in short amount of time, water flow is important. If it works at all, it will only cause premature failure of the heater over time and unsatisfactory performance.
If I walked into that basement and saw that "shoe-makers" assortment of plumbing issues(tub drain blocking window from opening? Haha),rat's-nest of pex piping and electrical wires,cinder block foundation,too? I'd walk away.
Nice install, very clean and you covered every step. Impressed by your approach, attention to detail and most of all your care to doing the job right. God bless!!
@@plumber79 I was thinking the same. Think of it this way, at least it’s not in your house. It’s funny how my wife complains about me being a perfectionist, but my customers don’t.
You all prolly dont care but does anybody know of a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any assistance you can give me.
@Gordon Cullen i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im trying it out atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
If the drain fittings were rotated about 45 degrees or so towards the front it would then be much easier to connect hoses for flushing the unit as required.
@@SergioPena20 I don’t think you want a shut off on your hot water side either, I don’t know much about tankless water heaters but I’m familiar with hot water tanks
@@murkyturkey5238 with the tankless you have a valve on the hot and the cold so you can flush out the heat exchanger once a year we have one and we love it
Thanks for the video. I was considering a tankless water heater but found out the electric specs were pretty high and we don’t have gas so we put in a tank heater. I am still intrigued with tankless and love the small form factor. All the best from north Texas.
Also make sure unit is serviced once to twice a year also add a filter onto the cold water inlet to the tank to keep scale build up down on unit. Flush , clean flame rods and check filter just a few tips and info also put a gas shut off before sediment trap so it can be serviced if need be.
Hard water is never a friend to a tankless. Low volume of water with a lot of Btu's= lime scale in the heat exchanger. At least once a year a clean and flush. Also no condensate neutralizer, by product of any modulating condensing unit is acidic water. It can and will eat through copper and cast iron pipe and etch concrete. Also not good on septic systems.
We had a Navien Combi boiler installed during our house remodel back in 2016. The house was damaged from Hurricane Sandy. Entire new heating system was installed. We love the unit, our gas bill went down and the house is much warmer than before.
In Massachusetts we can’t use pvc anymore for venting the glue dries up depending on temperature and btu rating the glue dries out and leaks we now can only use polypropylene pipe and have to have an acid neutralizer kit for condensation so it doesn’t cause acid erosion of drain pipes and sump pumps nice clean install except the pen could have been a little neater they do make elbows and straight pipe with clamps to make a nice neat professional job
When I built this house 5 years ago I chose a tankless water heater/boiler. I have no regrets. I've never run out of hot water. We're on well water so I'm more likely to run out of water before I run out of hot. I do the annual maintenance on the water heater side which consists of recirculating a mild acetic solution for about an hour.
@@blt981 We are on well water, It's not softened or filtered. I clean annually with pump and dilute acid. They sell kits with a bucket, a pump and the hoses to connect to your heater as well as the chemical. Our water is pretty soft. Soap lathers readily. We do get mineral deposits from water but it is in solution within the system and doesn't form until exposed to air.
If I was inspecting this installation, I would cite and write 3 corrections: 1] The T & P valve needs to terminate to an approved location. 2] PEX needs supporting every 32".3] Provide a gas line schematic when tying into an existing system. Other than that, nicely done!
Mike, any ideas about this 👇 For anyone watching this, what kind of hangers and brackets can be used to secure the iron gas pipe ? I’ve run into a situation where the gas pipe has a long run without support. It just hangs there and will wobble around if anything disturbs it. Just touching it, makes it shake badly. It’s not good. And any answers will be “for entertainment only.” Thanks.
Super video! Though get some better csst, without an o-ring. I have never seen that stuff. Usually you put the clip 2 rings back and it presses the stainless against a brass surface to seal... Also two more things 1"x3/4" npt "bushing" and what you guys call a sediment trap. In gas we call that a "drip leg".
I not sure but in California we use copper from water heater up the wall exposed mount to the ceiling and from the ceiling we use Brass Adapters to pex and ur missing insulation on the line
Any reason you didn't hang the water heater nearer to the vent exit? I find the small pressure lines (incl gas) easier to run and they take less space than running the vent lines to the other side of the room.
Hey bro, this looks really straightforward, I really appreciate the info and play by play. Our hot water heater (from 1993 lol) just died, and you’ve instilled confidence in this machinist/fabricator to install a tankless on my own. Only questions I have are regarding permitting and insurance after the fact. If there’s something you could say with regards to that I’d be very appreciative. Cheers.
Thanks for your comment! Homeowners insurance doesn’t seem to be an issue. Permitting is going to be based on where you live and what your county/city requires.
What are you using to connect the Rheem to gas, that's doesn't look like pipe. I've had my unit for 20 years but it appears its having a gas leak when using hot water. Could smell gas outside and the gas company came in and said, what i was using to connect to the gas was problem. Also we kept getting the error message not enough gas going to unit. So my question is how to correct this problem?
You didn't mention that if the power goes out there's no hot water. Secondly the system has to be cleaned out at least a year. Another great video. Thank you.
@@malinoisnation9392 he replaced nat gas w/h not electric. Electricity goes out, no hot water. Once a year flush and clean or warranty is void too. I like tankless w/h, easy service calls
The system really needed a anti-scale filter and a water softener installed together to keep from having to flush the system. It really makes a huge difference.
I get made fun of at work for being a nj plumber who runs pvc working in nyc where they still do cast-iron, kinda mind blowing what other people around country are doing we sweat copper pipe and run black steal for gas this type of work being done realy takes the art and skill out of the trade, take the extra time to do things like a pro your work will last longer and you're customers will know the difference.
Quick question on this install... noticed the meter was 250 CFH. Did you have the gas company upgrade it after this install? NG furnace, NG stove, and now NG tankless must be over? The reason I ask is because I have same size meter and plumbers are looking at me like I got 10 heads when I ask them don't I need to upgrade the meter first.
That is prolly because your meter is good up to 250,000 btu's of output..your tankless is anywhere from 140 to 150,000 btu's for your furnace let's go high and say 100 to 120k btu's doubtful but let's go there..your dryer 25 k & your stove anywhere from 40k btu's to run 2 burners full blast and the oven all at same time..giving or taking on this figures you should be fine..most important thing is the piping if that's not sized right then you could run into problems it all starts at the header pipe that enters the house that is supplying all the rest of your branches that pipe needs to accommodate the supply of BTUs for your entire house when you add them all up all by itself..then size down from there
A 250 meter (size) can supply well over 250 cubic feet of gas during high demand times. On a 7" system which is what this is, your going to have 300k+ BTUs available per hour. Makes sure all your piping is sized correctly. That's the main concern. It's not uncommon for me to see a 4 unit apartment running on this same pressure ( w/ a Schaumburg reg).. 4 furnaces 4 tank water heaters.
Looks like the same Richmond I have. I hope you have better luck. In 5 years I'm on my 3rd mother board, constantly have to clean my flame rods and get a new error code monthly. It's nice when it works but has proven to be unreliable.
Are those 90 degree elbows on top the tankless pitched? I'm trying to visualize how you got the slope in the exhaust run. Because if they are regular 90s it would be 0 degrees pitch right? Or perhaps the spot it clamps into on the top of the tankless allows for some flex and that is how you pitched it?
First question is, I thought you cannot run pex directly to your hot water heater? Second question is did you have to terminate any electrical for the tankless? I did a couple jobs before where I had to wire up the tankless heater. If i remember correctly, I believe it was due to them wanting to tie it in to their smart home system. Tekmar if I remember correctly.
Normally, you need 18" of approved piping away from the unit before switching to PEX. The Rheem and Rinnai models I have installed plugged directly into a standard outlet as it is only used for powering the electronics. I haven't done any systems that connect to a smart home system. Do you have a link of what type of system that was?
Thanks for posting! Looking at replacing my boiler with one of these combos. What do they require from the electric panel? Thinking just a dedicated 20amp?
I have learned to never use dish soap for checking gas leaks. It is a degreaser which will remove some pipe sealants and is corrosive and can rust steel pipe.
Hey Marshall, you mentioned it was a family member you did the work for, and keeping costs down is pretty important. I dont know your background but I do have a couple of questions if you wouldn't mind answering. 1) why use pex over copper for the cold supply and hot supply? You secured the 2"x4" to the wall. Why not just use bell hangers to secure the piping to the to a 2"x 6" instead? I also noticed that you've used shark bite valves, I've had terrible luck with those on huge temperature swings. 2) do they not require a condensate neutralizer where you live? We do up in Canada. The condensate is very acidic and eats out old underground piping unless it's the very old clay tile. Great video otherwise 👍
1. pex is resistant to corrosion and acidity more than copper is, I agree SharkBite's are garbage and not even allowed at most professional plumbing outfits 2. most residential codes do not require a neutralizer kit below a certain BTU value
Its going to be interesting in 20 years when all of these new installation products with rubber o-rings start failing. Im fine with pex and crimp rings or any other mechanical connection. I know the 100 year service life for pipe installation is a thing of the past but Its black pipe and copper for this fella. Good job otherwise. Thanks for posting.
I like the shark bite for going from copper to cpvc,or switching from any one kind to the other, but I would never use it in a wall that is sealed off, and I still prefer the crimp clamps any time possible
does the pump have to be installed right next to the tankless water heater? It seem to tight of a space, can i just install it down line some where more open?
It's against code in my and most states to run pex upto your water heater. You need 18" of "ridgid" pipe...flexes are considered acceptable and will meet your union requirements...
Hack job. Not to code. I saw the thumbnail and 5 seconds into the video said to myself this guy has no business doing this job. I think his venting is too close to an inside corner too. Focused on windows and missed that. Isn't the trac pipe supposed to be grounded? Also, wrong type of plastic tube for the drain and he didn't put it through a neutralizer. Gonna rot out their floor drain and the plumbing if its old cast iron. That stuff is like acid to cement.
David, are you referring to standard tank water heaters? Any back draft from the exhaust flue can melt the hot/cold water lines if they aren't metal for first 18"
I have a tankless water heater in a tiny house in the mountains that is powered by a generator…I have winterized in the past with antifreeze but heard these units have freeze protection! Can you provide any recommendations?
Thank you! This was the best tankless water heater video I've seen so far.
Great video. You are real professional plumber. You know how to be careful to check the gas leak before making tightening pipe without any further leak. Congratulations!
Thank you for showing what a leak looks like and why it's important to check for them. Great video
Great video on the installation and troubleshooting the Gas line pressure leak.
One of the best start to finish installations I've watched.
Well done!
Great help. I have 90%of my Rinnai water heater hooked up. Now I have the confidence to finish the installation after re-reading the installation manual. Thank you!
@@immachine1565 No need for one on a tankless, they dont hold hot water.. they just heat it and send it through.
This is the best example from start to finish I've seen. Thank you for the insrutional video!
Ive been installing tankless water heaters for over thirty years they have come along way but depending on your water quality my suggestion is buy two heaters because when something goes wrong it can take days to get parts if happens Friday order parts on Monday could take four of r five days no hot water trust me
Underrated comment
Im a licensed master plumber and trained by rinnai us as a level 4 tech. I can tell you number 1 the gas line is undersized. Unless you installed the lowest btu possible unit your probably running 150,000btu min. You should be running a 1” gas line from the meter to the tankless directly depending on the length an material it could be larger. Second the flue although spaced properly which is good unfortunately it’s in an inside corner which will cause the exhaust to periodically be sucked into the intake which is bad news for the burn chamber.
And the gas meter is too small.
Yep, another Carpenter playing Licensed Plumber. No issue with insurance and permits? HA!
So many issues...
No Plumbing Permit
No Gas Permit
Sch 40 pvc no longer legal to use (at least here in MASS!) for the guys exhaust
No Liability Insurance
Push to fit valves
Valves under heater not for "draining" but for annual flushing of the heat exchanger
Condensate not proper
I could go on and on...
He is qualified to run those 2x4's down from the floor joist though.
Not doing his family any favors here.
Looks perfect to me
Piping as the crow flies is terrible. Straight, square piping only
@@tomhill9027 This install would never pass inspection in Colorado or not in my county anyways. The issues you mentioned plus a couple more. Rinnai and Rheem both teach a very different setup and installation that would meet code. I usually do not comment but that install would make me nervous. The homeowner can pull a permit personally, but that would fail instantly with about six violations or unacceptable items. I guess as long as it works and nobody gets hurt.
Hey man I wanna tell you I enjoy your videos. Like you I have just build my post frame house in southern indiana. Worked on it every day for the last 6 months and it's coming to a close. I have had help from a couple family members. Every time I come up the driveway my sense of accomplishment is like nothing I have ever felt. Thanks for your videos I found alot of inspiration when times got tough by watching your videos. Also alot of good ideas and tips along the way. You have been a real blessing to me and my project.
Thank you so much for your comment and encouragement. That's amazing. We'd love to see photos of it if you want to share.
Don’t like how many gaskets on the the more seals more chance of leaks there are better gas piping systems to use
Should take off the cover and check for gas leaks inside the unit, the manufacturers work needs to be field checked and twisting on water tank gas connection without a proper hold wrench can twist the connections inside the tankless unit and cause leaks. When tightening fittings in close areas always use two wrenches.
I have never had a tankless, have had water heaters installed myself pretty easy (last one cost me $600) lasted about 10-15 years little maintenance. Tankless DYI like this guy if not you probably need to get some pro to install $3k to $6k. 1 )Biggest selling point of tankless used to be instant hot water (I was always skeptical-how!?) now it comes to light that that is bogus... 2) Also big energy cost savings $8 a month = that will take 50 years to pay for itself. Total no brainer for me (my opinion vast majority of people) tank water heater until tankless gets way way cheaper which doesn't seem to be anytime soon.
Well tony d..would like to go see u buy a tank heater now for 600 bucks u would end up with a 40 gallon cheapy from manards that would only last u prolly 8 years if u lucky & that would be no where as efficient..and yes if the unit is hooked up properly & every thing is sized accordingly or unit is not undersized u will get hot water to the fixture very quickly..far as only saving 8 bucks a month on cost to run I would say that's a little off as well.. considering the tankless does not need to hold water and continuously heat it as a tank type does or take the amount of time the tank type does to get u up and running to have hot water again after your teenager drains it with half hour showers or more..also most likely depending on what u would need to keep up with your use load u would only spend around $1500 for a quality brand tankless not 3 to 6k..well add around 3 hundred bucks or so for the material still way under plus u do your own like u said so save ton on labor too right..
At this point, a tankless heater costs just about the same as a decent tank heater, sometimes less. They aren't that expensive.
5gpm tankless are around $800 now, not much more than a tank
@@christopherhaak9824 when we were looking for a new water heater about a year ago we were looking at a power event or a tankless and we found that Richmond who sold both sold the tankless for cheaper. That’s what we ended up with and we like it a lot more than a tank
My wife and I occasionally stay at a friends guest house which is above a garage. The tankless unit id directly below the barh faucet? Maybe 6 ft of run. It takes 42 seconds to get hot water. And whenntaking a shower if anyone turns on another faucet you know it by the temo drop. And do not turn off the shower to soap up or the cold water sandwitch will give you a rude awakening.
Love the title of the video, Would be amazed to see you install a water heater in a non-existing home.
It's a retro-fit install, versus a new build home which is very different - hence the title.
done this many times when I worked in residential. There are a few things people need to consider before switching to one of these, first, if your house is still plumbed in old galvanized pipe forget getting a tankless unless your going to rip it all out and replumb in copper. secondly you need to have the right size gas line available and the BTUH available to run the tankless. I have seen on some small houses with small meters that have multiple gas burning appliances run out of gas cfm running multiple appliances while trying to run the tankless. I personally run both the intake and exhaust at the same angle just for the symmetry of railroad tracking the lines but to each their own.
Johnny B. What about galvanized pipe doesn’t work with a tankless heater? I mostly switched to pex but some of my hidden piping I left alone
@@jeffhuntley2921 The problem with galvanized pipe is that it rusts closed and restricts the water flow. Tankless water heaters heat large volumes of water with high delta T in short amount of time, water flow is important. If it works at all, it will only cause premature failure of the heater over time and unsatisfactory performance.
If I walked into that basement and saw that "shoe-makers" assortment of plumbing issues(tub drain blocking window from opening? Haha),rat's-nest of pex piping and electrical wires,cinder block foundation,too?
I'd walk away.
@@jeffhuntley2921 👋
@@raycumpian2864 ya thats not a basement I would use for a first date
Nice clean install, good meticulous workmanship! I, too, am leary of pex. I like soldered copper…..but learned a lot…nice diy job!
Nice install, very clean and you covered every step. Impressed by your approach, attention to detail and most of all your care to doing the job right. God bless!!
Much appreciated!
Clean install? 🤣😂
@@plumber79 I was thinking the same. Think of it this way, at least it’s not in your house. It’s funny how my wife complains about me being a perfectionist, but my customers don’t.
Nothing like a brother-in-law with skills!
It can suck being the brother in-law with skills.
Lol
I know your family is going to love the benefits of a tankless water heater system. Nicely Done!
You all prolly dont care but does anybody know of a way to get back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any assistance you can give me.
@Gordon Cullen i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im trying it out atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Gordon Cullen It worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my ass :D
@Bentlee Remy Glad I could help =)
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
. Also I avoid csst as I feel it can be dangerous. I use iron pipe or soft copper and silver braze.
Bunch of good, useful info in this. Well done. 👍
We’ve had our Richmond tankless water heater installed for almost a year, and we love it compared to our old 40 gallon natural gas water heater
Thanks for sharing!
If the drain fittings were rotated about 45 degrees or so towards the front it would then be much easier to connect hoses for flushing the unit as required.
One of the most thorough installation videos I've seen - well done
Thank you!
How do you determine the size gas line needed?
@@phillipmontoya5326 The Richmond units require a 1/2 gas feed. Other units may vary, just read the installation instructions.
This is why you get someone who knows what they are doing. Great job! Enjoyed.
Thanks for watching!
There were a few mistakes made. Read the comments. Other people have pointed them out.
@@SergioPena20 I don’t think you want a shut off on your hot water side either, I don’t know much about tankless water heaters but I’m familiar with hot water tanks
@@murkyturkey5238 with the tankless you have a valve on the hot and the cold so you can flush out the heat exchanger once a year we have one and we love it
Thanks for the video. I was considering a tankless water heater but found out the electric specs were pretty high and we don’t have gas so we put in a tank heater. I am still intrigued with tankless and love the small form factor. All the best from north Texas.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Also make sure unit is serviced once to twice a year also add a filter onto the cold water inlet to the tank to keep scale build up down on unit.
Flush , clean flame rods and check filter just a few tips and info also put a gas shut off before sediment trap so it can be serviced if need be.
Hard water is never a friend to a tankless. Low volume of water with a lot of Btu's= lime scale in the heat exchanger. At least once a year a clean and flush. Also no condensate neutralizer, by product of any modulating condensing unit is acidic water. It can and will eat through copper and cast iron pipe and etch concrete. Also not good on septic systems.
@@mattjarchow4965 The unit comes with a built in condensate neutralizer.
Thank you sir! Me and my wife used your video to install the same water heater .
Awesome!
We had a Navien Combi boiler installed during our house remodel back in 2016. The house was damaged from Hurricane Sandy. Entire new heating system was installed. We love the unit, our gas bill went down and the house is much warmer than before.
In Massachusetts we can’t use pvc anymore for venting the glue dries up depending on temperature and btu rating the glue dries out and leaks we now can only use polypropylene pipe and have to have an acid neutralizer kit for condensation so it doesn’t cause acid erosion of drain pipes and sump pumps nice clean install except the pen could have been a little neater they do make elbows and straight pipe with clamps to make a nice neat professional job
When I built this house 5 years ago I chose a tankless water heater/boiler. I have no regrets. I've never run out of hot water. We're on well water so I'm more likely to run out of water before I run out of hot. I do the annual maintenance on the water heater side which consists of recirculating a mild acetic solution for about an hour.
Do you have hard water is it filtered and water softener used from the well. I was thinking of installing one I’m a seasoned DIY .
@@blt981 We are on well water, It's not softened or filtered. I clean annually with pump and dilute acid. They sell kits with a bucket, a pump and the hoses to connect to your heater as well as the chemical. Our water is pretty soft. Soap lathers readily. We do get mineral deposits from water but it is in solution within the system and doesn't form until exposed to air.
Que padre amigo, gracias. I'm ready to get my tankless installed, I now know what to expect.
Thank- you for taking the time to make video excellent workmanship.
Clean and great…!!!
Good job…!!!
Thank you!
If I was inspecting this installation, I would cite and write 3 corrections: 1] The T & P valve needs to terminate to an approved location. 2] PEX needs supporting every 32".3] Provide a gas line schematic when tying into an existing system. Other than that, nicely done!
Mike, any ideas about this 👇
For anyone watching this, what kind of hangers and brackets can be used to secure the iron gas pipe ?
I’ve run into a situation where the gas pipe has a long run without support. It just hangs there and will wobble around if anything disturbs it. Just touching it, makes it shake badly.
It’s not good.
And any answers will be “for entertainment only.”
Thanks.
Super video!
Though get some better csst, without an o-ring. I have never seen that stuff.
Usually you put the clip 2 rings back and it presses the stainless against a brass surface to seal...
Also two more things 1"x3/4" npt "bushing" and what you guys call a sediment trap. In gas we call that a "drip leg".
greetings to all who like this show I enjoy it too
Greetings Rosy:)
I not sure but in California we use copper from water heater up the wall exposed mount to the ceiling and from the ceiling we use Brass Adapters to pex and ur missing insulation on the line
As someone who has installed 100s of these. This video was great
The electrical wiring blows my mind.
Excellent video 😊
Awesome video as usual, very informative thank you
Thanks for watching!
very well workman and you explain step for step how to install. Thanks a lot.
Great video!!! Thank you very much for posting this I am glad i found you .
Glad it was helpful!
Love my tankless hot water heater!
Any reason you didn't hang the water heater nearer to the vent exit? I find the small pressure lines (incl gas) easier to run and they take less space than running the vent lines to the other side of the room.
Great video. Much appreciated!!
Very good video, easy to follow and understand.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video
Tankless is awesome. Had mine for 6 years no complaints. Annual servicing but that's it. Good investment.
Great Video,,,Thank YOu for Posting.
Nice job dad.
dude, great video. thanks for your time.
Bushings on gas fittings? Use bell reducers👍!
Hey bro, this looks really straightforward, I really appreciate the info and play by play. Our hot water heater (from 1993 lol) just died, and you’ve instilled confidence in this machinist/fabricator to install a tankless on my own. Only questions I have are regarding permitting and insurance after the fact. If there’s something you could say with regards to that I’d be very appreciative. Cheers.
Thanks for your comment! Homeowners insurance doesn’t seem to be an issue. Permitting is going to be based on where you live and what your county/city requires.
Holy shit 1993 dam built well
@@MrPostFrame Till the home inspector shows up.
@@MrPostFrame insurance isnt going to pay to fix their slab after you destroyed it with condensate.
@@MrPostFrame always based on manufacturer specs. You know just enough to be dangerous
What are you using to connect the Rheem to gas, that's doesn't look like pipe. I've had my unit for 20 years but it appears its having a gas leak when using hot water. Could smell gas outside and the gas company came in and said, what i was using to connect to the gas was problem.
Also we kept getting the error message not enough gas going to unit. So my question is how to correct this problem?
You didn't mention that if the power goes out there's no hot water. Secondly the system has to be cleaned out at least a year. Another great video. Thank you.
How’s that different from any other electric hot water heater? U may get what’s warm in the tank but you’d have to use it right away.
@@malinoisnation9392 he replaced nat gas w/h not electric. Electricity goes out, no hot water. Once a year flush and clean or warranty is void too. I like tankless w/h, easy service calls
The system really needed a anti-scale filter and a water softener installed together to keep from having to flush the system. It really makes a huge difference.
Fantastic video, nice clean job
Thank you very much!
Love the Thomas Edison quote!
My dad taught me to do pipe dope, tape and then pipe dope🤷♂️ we all got taught differently clean install👍.
Your dad isnt the plumbing code
@@greencolombiano never said I do it that way just a way my dad taught me at work I do tape and then pipe dope 🤦♂️
Nice job very nice job
Nice job you make it look easy!
Thanks 👍
I get made fun of at work for being a nj plumber who runs pvc working in nyc where they still do cast-iron, kinda mind blowing what other people around country are doing we sweat copper pipe and run black steal for gas this type of work being done realy takes the art and skill out of the trade, take the extra time to do things like a pro your work will last longer and you're customers will know the difference.
Those gas fittings he installed would eventually dry out...black pipe,baby!
Quick question on this install... noticed the meter was 250 CFH. Did you have the gas company upgrade it after this install? NG furnace, NG stove, and now NG tankless must be over? The reason I ask is because I have same size meter and plumbers are looking at me like I got 10 heads when I ask them don't I need to upgrade the meter first.
That is just one of the half dozen or more items that would never pass inspection.
That is prolly because your meter is good up to 250,000 btu's of output..your tankless is anywhere from 140 to 150,000 btu's for your furnace let's go high and say 100 to 120k btu's doubtful but let's go there..your dryer 25 k & your stove anywhere from 40k btu's to run 2 burners full blast and the oven all at same time..giving or taking on this figures you should be fine..most important thing is the piping if that's not sized right then you could run into problems it all starts at the header pipe that enters the house that is supplying all the rest of your branches that pipe needs to accommodate the supply of BTUs for your entire house when you add them all up all by itself..then size down from there
A 250 meter (size) can supply well over 250 cubic feet of gas during high demand times. On a 7" system which is what this is, your going to have 300k+ BTUs available per hour. Makes sure all your piping is sized correctly. That's the main concern. It's not uncommon for me to see a 4 unit apartment running on this same pressure ( w/ a Schaumburg reg).. 4 furnaces 4 tank water heaters.
Mrr905 gives you 3 thumbs up for your video, aight!
Looks like the same Richmond I have. I hope you have better luck. In 5 years I'm on my 3rd mother board, constantly have to clean my flame rods and get a new error code monthly. It's nice when it works but has proven to be unreliable.
Are those 90 degree elbows on top the tankless pitched? I'm trying to visualize how you got the slope in the exhaust run. Because if they are regular 90s it would be 0 degrees pitch right? Or perhaps the spot it clamps into on the top of the tankless allows for some flex and that is how you pitched it?
First question is, I thought you cannot run pex directly to your hot water heater? Second question is did you have to terminate any electrical for the tankless? I did a couple jobs before where I had to wire up the tankless heater. If i remember correctly, I believe it was due to them wanting to tie it in to their smart home system. Tekmar if I remember correctly.
Normally, you need 18" of approved piping away from the unit before switching to PEX. The Rheem and Rinnai models I have installed plugged directly into a standard outlet as it is only used for powering the electronics. I haven't done any systems that connect to a smart home system. Do you have a link of what type of system that was?
You do nice work! Wish you were close by....plenty of projects around here! LOL!
Thanks for posting! Looking at replacing my boiler with one of these combos. What do they require from the electric panel? Thinking just a dedicated 20amp?
The intake vent has to be at least 30" from the ground to avoid the white stuff covering it
I have learned to never use dish soap for checking gas leaks. It is a degreaser which will remove some pipe sealants and is corrosive and can rust steel pipe.
Only use approved gas leak solution
wow that is a fact that i just learned after plumbing for 30 years
So exhaust and intake can be side by side? Thanks for the share
while you were there, shoulda put a master shutoff valve inside the house. :)
Hey Marshall, you mentioned it was a family member you did the work for, and keeping costs down is pretty important.
I dont know your background but I do have a couple of questions if you wouldn't mind answering.
1) why use pex over copper for the cold supply and hot supply? You secured the 2"x4" to the wall. Why not just use bell hangers to secure the piping to the to a 2"x 6" instead? I also noticed that you've used shark bite valves, I've had terrible luck with those on huge temperature swings.
2) do they not require a condensate neutralizer where you live? We do up in Canada. The condensate is very acidic and eats out old underground piping unless it's the very old clay tile.
Great video otherwise 👍
1. pex is resistant to corrosion and acidity more than copper is, I agree SharkBite's are garbage and not even allowed at most professional plumbing outfits
2. most residential codes do not require a neutralizer kit below a certain BTU value
This unit, like all the Richmonds comes with a built in condensate neutralizer.
Great job!!
Hello, thank you for the video.
Why would use 2 inch pipe not 3 inch’s.
Thank you
Didn't know you could use flex for gas, good to know.
That's the only thing I don't like . Little scary.. 😂
I don’t have a drain nearby you think I can just dig a whole and put some rocks and have the condensation line drain there ?
Yeah, no way. I would definitely not do that. Condensate is acid and that would never pass any sort of code requirements.
Good job, the only thing I can see that would be called by the inspector is you have to bush down at least 2 pipe sizes with gas or use a reducer.
You can buy press fittings for a quarter of the price and if you buy them from the supply house they'll rent you the tool as well.
Can I hook into an intake and exhaust that is already there for my furnace. Is the same setup.
Its going to be interesting in 20 years when all of these new installation products with rubber o-rings start failing. Im fine with pex and crimp rings or any other mechanical connection. I know the 100 year service life for pipe installation is a thing of the past but Its black pipe and copper for this fella. Good job otherwise. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for weighing in. It will definitely be interesting to see if it all lives up to its name
Because copper holds up forever right??lol
Copper is a disaster for me. Pinhole leaks everywhere. 20 years on the system...time for pex.
He said, "black pipe"
I like the shark bite for going from copper to cpvc,or switching from any one kind to the other, but I would never use it in a wall that is sealed off, and I still prefer the crimp clamps any time possible
hi, nice work. so no need for an expansion tank?
Great vid! Thnx
does the pump have to be installed right next to the tankless water heater? It seem to tight of a space, can i just install it down line some where more open?
Can the vent be that close to a window or the air conditioner condenser
Did you check and make sure the meter can support the btu’s? I believe the gas line is undersized. I guarantee an inspector wouldn’t sign off on this.
Did good but that wood framing is def not as sturdy as anchoring it to that block wall . It’s hollow but it will hold better then floating 2x4 .
Very nice , Great job . Thank you for the share. RL
Thank you!
Nice handyman work
Is the exhaust allowed to be that close to the window. I thought you needed 4’ of clearance from a window or door?
It's against code in my and most states to run pex upto your water heater. You need 18" of "ridgid" pipe...flexes are considered acceptable and will meet your union requirements...
I was thinking the same thing. Hire a professional plumber for plumbing
It's not just code,it's manufacturer specs
Hack job. Not to code. I saw the thumbnail and 5 seconds into the video said to myself this guy has no business doing this job. I think his venting is too close to an inside corner too. Focused on windows and missed that. Isn't the trac pipe supposed to be grounded? Also, wrong type of plastic tube for the drain and he didn't put it through a neutralizer. Gonna rot out their floor drain and the plumbing if its old cast iron. That stuff is like acid to cement.
David, are you referring to standard tank water heaters? Any back draft from the exhaust flue can melt the hot/cold water lines if they aren't metal for first 18"
That is not the case for a condensing tankless. You can run pex directly to the unit if you want.
does the intake have to go outside or can u just have the intake stay in the house
Is it easy to install?
I have a tankless water heater in a tiny house in the mountains that is powered by a generator…I have winterized in the past with antifreeze but heard these units have freeze protection! Can you provide any recommendations?
Was there an expansion tank connected and if there was how much pressure is required??
@17:39 I think the tube wasn't inserted straight,,,that's why it leaked!
Which drain did you use for the condensation?
Can’t u use the existing gas line that go to your old water tank?
I always use the Polish chart for torque specs. Tighten til it break. The 1/2 turn flex gas line remind me of that chart