Pouring a Concrete Slab Foundation
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2016
- How to Pour a Slab Foundation
Tool list
Shovels
Gravel Rake
Screed board
Jitterbug Tamper
Bull float and Handle
Magnesium Trowel
Knee Boards
Steel Trowel
Ordering Concrete
How Much?
What Strength?
Aggregate size?
Type of portland cement?
Admixtures? 
Хобби
I’m on my 3rd week in construction and we’re gonna be pouring concrete all week next week haha. Idk how to do anything but this video really helped on what’s to be expected
No nonsense info, no exaggerations, and everything is properly done, yet the comment section is full of negative comments. I've just watched a con-man's video who was trying to inflict fear to rip people off and people seem to love him in the comment section. Anyway, thanks for the vid.
Other points made. One other,tap the forms as you pour to prevent honeycombs. The sooner the better. You could've added 10 gallons to that truck,No need for it to be poured that stiff. Also,in the future,pull the concrete away from the chute,not toward it. One more thing,when pouring a building Alan always lay down some 6 mil. Visquin helps a lot with the concrete sweating later on. Tamping is obselete,pointless. Bullfloating immediately after screeding knocks the rocks down....just don't pour it so stiff you gotta pull it out of the chute. 7"slump from the plant,it'll be 6" coming out of the chute. Generally,a perfect slump.
Follow this advice and you are sure to get shrinkage cracks. Wetter is not better Also a concrete rake is much easier to pull than push! Pushing the aggregate down to get "cream" also is not recommended! One doesn't have to use all the chutes on the truck. Those front footings could have been poured with one less chute.
Thank you for this. It's very helpful!
As a novice in the art of concreting, I want to ask why don't people knock the pegs down below the containment boards and screen to the top of the board's as a guide? Wouldn't it be easier? And quicker? And more precise?
more than one guy needed
Seems good so far! Was easy to talk to about his My Shed Plans [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Guided me in the right direction & helped me understand everything & in the end it was what I wanted
This is glorious, I have been researching "how to lay a block foundation for a shed" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Damkietor Nonpareil Dominion - (should be on google have a look ) ? It is an awesome one of a kind product for building better sheds and woodworking without the hard work. Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my friend got cool success with it.
Am I the only one that feels rage from the depths of their soul every time the “googlefi phone plan” commercial pops up.
My man the way you just walked on that rebar, ouch!
Whomever is driving that mixer needs to go back to school and learn to drive it again, he could easily get all the way over to the edge of the forms and if he couldn’t have he could have poured faster with the idle up to throw the concrete further. Also with Front discharge mixers most of the weight is in the back of it and you can lock all of the axles so he’d easily be able to get down there and out again. I’ve driven them and they are by far the best vehicle ever made for delivering concrete, just wish they were available worldwide.
Pour the ring beam part first, and poker it down with a 2x2 to make sure there are no voids in the sides of the slab. Pour the main slab after all of the outer ring is filled and tamped down.If you have voids, water will get in, freeze and split the edges out and the rebar will rust.
whats a ring beam?
Isn’t that screed perfectly straight too unlike a 2x4?
I am a 40 veteran concrete finisher. This guy is a beginner, He does no some things but he does not know how to pour mud.
Why don't you mention some of the things you're talking about.
How do you insure that your installed mesh will do its job in the concrete? Will you have the correct space between the ground and the mesh? To avoid future cracks? Just asking.
Never rake toward the truck lol. The truck can drive forward👍🏻
obviously you didn't watch the entire video or you missed when he clearly stated the reason he was raking each part. ITS BECAUSE OF THE TERRAIN THE TRUCK WAS NOT ABLE TO MANEUVER SO IT HAD TO POUR FROM THAT ONE SPOT. that is why he did it like that and he even tells you not to do it that way if you can avoid it. so instead of laughing at him, you should be laughing at yourself.
Never comment on the video without watching lol. The video can explain what's going on👍🏻
@@00kaza00 He could have taken one piece of chute off and it would have poured where he was pushing it. Also, if the truck drove in that far, he can back up a bit too.
How much was the concrete?
Always pull the mud away from the shoot not toward it like this guy is doing, after you pour the farthest part of the slab the truck can back up and pour the rest with minimal effort also put another ten gal. Of water in it,to dry.
That makes most sense
I'm planning to build a second dwelling our property which I'm allowed max 900 SqFt by the city. Do I need the plumbing in place before pouring concrete? I'm a tile setter by trade but pretty handy I'm also a diesel mechanic by trade. The foundation process is a little new to me, but building walls, roof and other projects I have lots more confidence ….
Yes
I wonder if the truck driver sat in the cab the entire time laughing while this dude busted his ass for no reason
Bobby Livingsworth that's his job
I’m not sure you did a single thing right in this video, concrete looks horrible
just ordered the *WoodBlueprints. Com* guide for step-by-step videos and different plans to BUILD A SHED. they have some awesome plans in there
I noticed that you didn't put plain concrete as bedding course, instead you have just directly pour concret on the gravel course, how can you guarantee the flatness and evenness of the concrete slab?
Scott Chen yes I noticed that
by flattening the slab?
Did not level his forms it may look flat but i bet its not level also why didn't he use a poker and it was way to stiff
Looks like you don't have enough steel in your slab.
Not sure how thick it is, but a 6" slab needs #4 bars @ 18" on center minimum. You need more for the thickened slab at the edges.
Also, for slabs on grade the steel should be close to the top of the slab, to help prevent visible cracking at the top. The steel wire in this video seems to be near the bottom.
For a slab like this, I would use legit rebar rather than steel wire. If you space rebar at 18" on center, you also won't step on it and push it to the bottom when pouring the concrete. Rebar is about the same price as that steel wire too.
agreed. not rocket surgery. however, sounds intellectual!
hey to all you concrete engineers...It's a concrete slab not the space shuttle....Geezzzzzzzzzzzzzz...LMAO
Made hard work of that matey
I'm doing a slab about the same size, how many cubic metre of concrete is here
How much would a foundation cost for a 500 square feet house?
CALI CALI
robert stanford do you know?
any concrete construction just the perimeter should be 30 inches wide x no less of 1 foot, pay attention, any hill close by, can carry lots of water , freeze in the winter. Do the job good at the first time, use iron bars one inch diameter two bars all around the perimeter, all around the perimeter you should have weep hole to carry any water way from the construction.
with 4 shoots you. have 16 ft.you could of had the driver pour it right were you needed it without all that taking..looks like a montiliptic slap..you really overworked yourself ,and yes been doing this 25 years
He sure did a lot of unnecessary work pushing all that concrete around.
Looks like he had the driver back up a bit, but it wasn't shown.
Just do length times width divided by 27. That would be a foot thick. There are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard. And if you don't know what your doing, hire someone, or just ask the dispatch what mix is best for your application. And it looks like it's cold out, put plastic over the gravel, keep the ground dry, and water won't keep concrete from sticking, use some type of oil to spray on your forms. And you need to use larger stakes and 2x4 kickers so it won't move at all. You can't move a monolithic slab if it's not square after the fact anyways. And it was poured too dry for two guys inexperienced. Plus you bull float immediately after you screed. A tamp will cause the concrete to scale during the freeze /thaw cycle. The top will pop off. Just saying. Plus I can see ripples line speed bumps when you bull floated. I don't know any these guys on you tube don't just hire a pro for 4-6 dollars per foot including the concrete in that price
GREAT DETAILS!
Looks like you did an alright job. Since you're the only guy on the ground for the most part, I would say that a lot of the negative comments here are just guys playing the troll on RUclips. You got it all smoothed out, forms didn't bust, you're level. You did the job that you needed to.
Why aren’t the corners dug deeper. To protect. From cracking
Too much information on the concrete, none on the rebar and mesh. .No information on what the boards are on top of the form boards. No info on what he was talking about on the corners. Why on earth would you need those braces for.
Am I? Really? Why? What did I say wrong? Please elaborate...
This is the right way how to pour a slab foundation. You do it with rebars.There are some video they said they are professionals what they did is they just made a square and dump the concrete and called it slab foundation.
your firing the wrong guy
do you consider soil bearing capacity or do the compaction before the pour?
Absolutely pointless for you to have to rake that at all while pouring. That is a front discharge truck and those trucks can go almost anywhere. I drive these trucks for a living and I have driven those suckers up trails I wouldn't take my four wheeler. There were also many other things you did wrong. Making other people work way to hard if they actually follow your instructions
Teagan Kite I am a concrete contractors and you are right.
Where can I source those plastic j-bolt positioners? What are they called?
Those forms are so improperly set. You need to go to school before people think anything here is acceptable. I would recommend to leave it to a professional. A foundation is not a DIY.
way too dry
decoysk that's way I prefer 2× when u have a dry concrete drink xx stay thirsty my friend
Too much water = weaker concrete! = high cracking too! though I would've used a concrete poker to help the concrete flow and compaction!
decoysk
That's why you should use lube
Консистенция бетонной смеси видно что хорошая, а вот гидроизоляции нет. Рассыплется ваш фундамент скоро.
You get a thumbs up for effort. But you have much to learn.
IF you worked for me you would be fired in about 15 min!!
Why? For teaching people how to do it themselves and not paying you to do it for them?
He looks like he’s doing the hiring. You’d be fired. Lol
Yep this is not how you pour concrete the rebar is all wrong there's no vibrator and you're raking the concrete the wrong way I should know I do this for a living
Hmmmmmm...I wonder what you looked like when you first started doing concrete. I worked for my father on commercial projects when I was 14 on the weekends. The "experienced" guys had me looking for a skyhook for an hour. My father asked me what I was doing and told him Anthony needs a skyhook. My father said to look behind the tool trailer. I did for another 10 minutes and what I found was my stupidity. Shorty thereafter the foreman asked me to get hima bucket of steam. At 14 I learned fast. I smirked and grabbed my crotch. The antenna's were up after that.
@@danc3831 I knew pretty much nothing when I poured my first slabs and even I knew to put more bricks down to support cattle panels I was using for reinforcement. He's stepping right on it and with the small amount of rocks he has under it all it's going to do is sink to the bottom. Then you can step on the bricks and not bend it! :)
This guy is text book savy but hands on he has no clue would last ona professional crew or job
Why did you even bother with the mesh. It's basically laying flat on the bottom. Dodgy as.
Must've missed the part where it was bull floated.......
neckarsulme not all concrete needs to be bull floated
could have at least removed the last section of shoots to fill in the front part of the slab
If I could, I'd say screw the minimum 2500psi on the cement, I'd throw in 5000psi concrete to maximize foundation strength. Also, why isn't the guy using a cement pump to pour the cement more evenly around? he wouldn't have to push the cement around so much
5k is overkill. Pumps cost money. Next question
Rename this video to "How not to pour concrete." You didn't even screed it right and any dummy can usually do that part.