Howdy bbtank3000! Thanks very much for the great comment! Please share this video with anyone you think would be interested. Thank you for watching and I hope to see you as a sub!!! Let me know if you have any questions on any of your projects! ☘️
Omg I know what you mean - I’ve done things to my house I never thought I could do - I’ve watched his videos over and over getting my confidence up to try to tackle a job - saved me thousands of dollars !
Thanks@@tazerman1977 !!! Glad my videos were helpful...and so happy that YOU have been able to complete required work yourself - and saved tons of money!!!! ☘️
Yeah, I noticed that as well. Maybe the customer didn't want to pay the extra labor cost for him to have it done. I wouldn't either unless they are willing to pay me. He's a great "Installer" meaning skilled labor..
This guy amazing I just purchased my first rental property. This guy teaching make me feel like I can do everything myself. Some people not good at explaining, or teaching the work they performing . He’s very detailed and easy to listen to. Growing up my teachers was always foreigner’s and teaching the hardest subjects. First off MR I don’t understand the language you speaking. Second, if I don’t understand the language you’re speaking how in the hell I suppose to pass your teaching of chemistry 🧪lol but I would love to work under this guy growing up. You understand his teaching. I learned along time ago everybody don’t speak the same language even though we speak the same language if you know what I mean.
I've been starting out doing jobs like these on my own and this is one of the better series of videos I've found on YT on the subject. Thanks for putting this together, subscribed!
I subscribed, he's a great teacher! I am working on a similar type project and to save cost I'm doing a portion of the work myself. His videos has been an excellent source of instruction and knowledge.
Howdy State of Peaches! Wow - that’s the nicest comment I have received since I started Do & Brew! Thanks very much for subbing and let me know if you have any questions regarding your project...I am here to help! ☘️
Howdy Janet Stone! Thanks for the great comment! And good luck to you on your project. Keep going and you’ll have it done before you know it. Don’t be intimidated by the enormity of the task...break it down into it individual pieces and parts and knock out a little each day. The old saying - “You can’t see the forest for the trees” - never made much sense to me until I started working on homes and building furniture...how in the world can you build a house!? It’s really just one board, then another and another and so on. When you consider each part, it’s not so daunting! Let me know if you have any questions as you complete your project. Good luck!!! 🍀
Thanks very much for the sub/support! Next video (Full Kitchen Remodel V.9) will be loaded this Sunday night! Be sure to watch to the end to see our next big project! ☘️
Doing very similar project on a ½ bath instead of a kitchen. Late 1940's build in the "100% Humidity for Eternity" area of Deep East Texas, also has diagonal solid pine subflooring. Supply line for fridge ice maker sprung a leak in the wall shared with the bathroom, rotted out the subfloor, bottom plate, and the tops of the overlapping joist ends that the plate is toenailed to (supported directly below by a 4× cross beam and brick&mortar column). It's a non load bearing wall, but all of the kitchen appliances (fridge, range, etc.) are right there on the other side of the wall. Before seeing this video, I had been working the plan over in my head, and had come to a sort of 4 part solution. Remove the rot, extend the joists, partial sister (sandwiching in the extensions which bypasses the disconnect in the joist ends through transferance into the exterior "bread" pieces of the joist Dagwood), and then cross bracing. I'm sure it's overkill, but it's such a small area that I'll already have the full length boards so why not use what would other wise be the cut off? Plus, I don't think anyone ever regretted there floor NOT caving in because they built it too well. The things sons do for their mothers... Is that a Bora Bar Clamp?
I’m running into the issue of needing to sister to the floor joists to level the floor out and on top of the the floor is noisy. I have sheets of plywood over top of 3/4 pine as the subfloor. Not sure how to go about it
Don’t understand your question…the joists are 16” on center and I used 4’W x 8’L plywood. ***I did NOT use OSB (Oriented Strand Board) … I used plywood - big difference.
Howdy Richard! In my location the only treated wood permitted for indoor use is the sill board. Yes, treated joists and plywood would most likely last longer, but not always allowed by code. But remember, the reason this floor and most joists needed to be replaced was due to a slow water leak that continued for years - not natural elements. The relatively easy / low cost fix to stop the water leak would have prevented the costly, complete replacement of the floor / entire kitchen remodel. Thanks for the comment and question! ☘️
Howdy Marek Włodarczyk! Unfortunately - you should not install cement board directly to a solid wood subfloor. The best thing to do is install 1/2” plywood over the solid wood subfloor. First screw the solid wood subfloor boards to the joists. Next use construction adhesive and screws placed 6” on center to secure the 1/2” plywood to the solid wood subfloor. Then spread thinset and install your cement board. This will yield the most stable substrate for your tile install to ensure it will last for many years. Good luck on your install and let me know if you have any more questions. ☘️
Thanks for the video, I found it helpful as I had to repair three 14 foot floor joist in my 1940's home. I used this video as my guide. I have a question, in sistering the new joist, I found that there is a slight but noticeable difference in the height of the old versus new joist. Do I need to be concerned about this? I suppose I could plane them down some to level things out, but is this necessary? When would you be concerned about the height difference? I would appreciate your thoughts? Thanks.
Howdy Enrique Felix jr.! Thanks very much ... glad the video is a valuable resource for you. Thanks for the comment and hope to see you as a subscriber! ☘️
I have a few comments about the electrical part. You can not install BX wire into a plastic box. Has to be metal. And the wire in a kitchen needs to be 12awg not 14. But over all i think the floor looked good.
Plastic boxes are not rated to use with bx nor mc wire...its only made to use with romex wire....here in Jersey by code you need at least 2 (20amp) dedicated circuit for the counter Recep only..never use 14 wire for outlets...and you need a dedicated circuit for each appliance your having in the kitchen...
Howdy Jason! As long as your floor joists are 16” OC or less (these we’re actually 14.5” OC) blocking is not required. Thanks for the question and for checkout the video! ☘️
Yep - you sure do. But I haven’t gotten to that stage of the project yet. Don’t have to install those at this point, but they do get installed before insulation and drywall. Keep watching….
Howdy steven Gao! Thanks for the question...it’s just not as strong if all four corners come together at one point. There is just the possibility of more subfloor movement/weakness at a four-point intersection. Let me know if you have any more questions. ☘️
Howdy Naveod! Hmmm - I'd have to think on that waterproofing technique. My concern would be that you may completely seal up the wood - which is the goal and sounds good - but if water did find its way in it would have no where to go and the wood would rot. There are some deck beam and joist waterproofing products out there these days, but they seal up the top of the wood and leave the bottom exposed to allow for any water in the wood to dissipate. Thanks for the question!
Not required....and I don’t like OSB...one leak and it’s ruined. This is the highest grade plywood for interior use. I prefer the superior strength and stability of plywood.
Hello , I had a quick question. My subfloor and the backer board are laid. As I walk acroos there are areas where the floor is sunken as I walk . Is that normal ?
Howdy Alejandra Montelongo! It’s hard to say without seeing the floor in person...But no - that is not normal. The floor should be level before tile is installed. However, due to settling in older house, a floor slightly out of level may occur in older homes. For installing larger tiles, the floor is allowed 1/8” of variation in ten feet; for smaller tiles, 1/4” is allowed in ten feet. Anyplace with more than that is out of tolerance for tile install, and something must be done to bring the floor into tolerance so the tile can be installed flat and without excessive lippage. You mention “areas where the floor is sunken” as you walk around. How big is the room? If you are able to notice low spots visually, that is concerning. Is your floor within the tolerances noted above? If your joists are structurally sound, you could use a floor leveling compound to get your subfloor to level. BUT the lever should be applied before the concrete board underlayment.
Howdy hkgonra! I am using 3” coated deck screws - brand name is Deckmate. Probably overkill for an interior job, but I know they will last a long time. Thanks for checking out the video!!! ☘️
Do And Brew - DIY Thanks, I have used 2.5 or 3in deck screws before but been told multiple times those aren’t “approved” for subfloor and I should be using screws specifically for subfloor.
Howdy hkgonra! I have installed many subfloors using Deckmate screws...never had an inspector flag or question the install. Number 8, 10 or 12 screws are recommended for subfloor installs...using #10 Deckmates is a good choice for longevity....using an outdoor screw indoors. What type of screws have you been told to use over coated deck screws...do you know of a code requirement?
Attic floors generally do not get water damage unless you have a roof leak, and if you have a roof leak that damaged the attic joists, you likely have water damage further down as well.
Howdy Ed Cox! No hard water issues in this area...no corrosion....no other issues. Besides, old heavy gauge/thick copper is way better than today’s thin/cheap copper. Hope to see you as a sub! ☘️
I don't get it, constantly similar videos here in YT where floor and some joist are rotted and you doesn't replace all of them. Wood can't be so expensive that it's worth to sister joist and leave some possible partially rotted wood.
Howdy Mr. Wizeguy! Yep - you DON’T get it. Sistering wooden structural members is an age-old technique to repair / replace rotten or week structural members when the is no way to support the new wood that replaces the rotten wood. In this case - if I wanted to remove the entry floor joist - I would have had to pull up the dining room oak floor since these joist support both floors ... why do that? Clearly I cut the old floor joist sufficiently to remove all of the rot...just because a board is old and not the same color as the new wood doesn’t mean it’s rotten. Thanks for watching and for the comment! ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY I like using the carriage bolts in addition to the deck screws. When I do this. I also use Liquid Nail between the sister joists. Just a little more solidification.
did you block between your joist especially at the end of the plywood sheets??? likely not...buzz words like "sistering joists" has you in the know. it even has you not thinking of what is required.....diaphragm strength of your floor isn't created without blocking ..
Interesting I was just talking to my wife about this, she was wondering why many add block at the wall end but not in the middle of floor at the end of a sheet
![Compilation: Renovate My Home, Which I Built 40 Years Ago [Carpenter’s Home Renovation]](/img/1.gif)
This guy deserves more views. He explains every step with viewable camera angles!
Howdy bbtank3000! Thanks very much for the great comment! Please share this video with anyone you think would be interested. Thank you for watching and I hope to see you as a sub!!! Let me know if you have any questions on any of your projects! ☘️
Omg I know what you mean - I’ve done things to my house I never thought I could do - I’ve watched his videos over and over getting my confidence up to try to tackle a job - saved me thousands of dollars !
Thanks@@tazerman1977 !!! Glad my videos were helpful...and so happy that YOU have been able to complete required work yourself - and saved tons of money!!!! ☘️
When I saw he left the old subfloor, I knew he was a real one 💯
The only thing guys after a great vid you didn’t clean the void of rubbish.
Yeah, I noticed that as well.
Maybe the customer didn't want to pay the extra labor cost for him to have it done. I wouldn't either unless they are willing to pay me. He's a great "Installer" meaning skilled labor..
This guy amazing I just purchased my first rental property. This guy teaching make me feel like I can do everything myself. Some people not good at explaining, or teaching the work they performing . He’s very detailed and easy to listen to. Growing up my teachers was always foreigner’s and teaching the hardest subjects. First off MR I don’t understand the language you speaking. Second, if I don’t understand the language you’re speaking how in the hell I suppose to pass your teaching of chemistry 🧪lol but I would love to work under this guy growing up. You understand his teaching. I learned along time ago everybody don’t speak the same language even though we speak the same language if you know what I mean.
Howdy Dwight! Thanks very much for the great comment and good luck with your rental property!!! ☘️
I've been starting out doing jobs like these on my own and this is one of the better series of videos I've found on YT on the subject. Thanks for putting this together, subscribed!
Howdy Erik! Thanks for watching and for the great comment! Glad this series was helpful for you. Good luck on your future projects! ☘️
...and thanks for supporting Do & Brew with a sub!!!
I’m enjoying these vids. Very detailed for DIYers. Thanks!
Howdy Rome! Thanks very much for the comment...glad the videos are helpful! Hope to see you as a sub! ☘️
I subscribed, he's a great teacher! I am working on a similar type project and to save cost I'm doing a portion of the work myself. His videos has been an excellent source of instruction and knowledge.
Howdy State of Peaches! Wow - that’s the nicest comment I have received since I started Do & Brew! Thanks very much for subbing and let me know if you have any questions regarding your project...I am here to help! ☘️
You are inspiring me, to finish my remodeling - I am a single, private school teacher, doing it all myself. THANK YOU!
Howdy Janet Stone! Thanks for the great comment! And good luck to you on your project. Keep going and you’ll have it done before you know it. Don’t be intimidated by the enormity of the task...break it down into it individual pieces and parts and knock out a little each day. The old saying - “You can’t see the forest for the trees” - never made much sense to me until I started working on homes and building furniture...how in the world can you build a house!? It’s really just one board, then another and another and so on. When you consider each part, it’s not so daunting! Let me know if you have any questions as you complete your project. Good luck!!! 🍀
Nice! I hope you got it done 🥰
Finally a channel that no can get used to thank you for the tips. Our house is the same way with subflooring
Howdy ddrusa! Glad the video was helpful!!!
@@DoAndBrewDIY Looking forward to a new video on seeing what's next bud I subscribe to you.
Thanks very much for the sub/support! Next video (Full Kitchen Remodel V.9) will be loaded this Sunday night! Be sure to watch to the end to see our next big project! ☘️
Doing very similar project on a ½ bath instead of a kitchen. Late 1940's build in the "100% Humidity for Eternity" area of Deep East Texas, also has diagonal solid pine subflooring. Supply line for fridge ice maker sprung a leak in the wall shared with the bathroom, rotted out the subfloor, bottom plate, and the tops of the overlapping joist ends that the plate is toenailed to (supported directly below by a 4× cross beam and brick&mortar column). It's a non load bearing wall, but all of the kitchen appliances (fridge, range, etc.) are right there on the other side of the wall. Before seeing this video, I had been working the plan over in my head, and had come to a sort of 4 part solution. Remove the rot, extend the joists, partial sister (sandwiching in the extensions which bypasses the disconnect in the joist ends through transferance into the exterior "bread" pieces of the joist Dagwood), and then cross bracing. I'm sure it's overkill, but it's such a small area that I'll already have the full length boards so why not use what would other wise be the cut off? Plus, I don't think anyone ever regretted there floor NOT caving in because they built it too well. The things sons do for their mothers...
Is that a Bora Bar Clamp?
Thank you!!!
Im subscribed!! very relevant material!
Howdy Abe Rum! Thanks very much....glad you found the video informative!!! Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for watching!!! ☘️
I’m running into the issue of needing to sister to the floor joists to level the floor out and on top of the the floor is noisy. I have sheets of plywood over top of 3/4 pine as the subfloor. Not sure how to go about it
Songs are great and your work as well brother.
Howdy Sam S! Thanks very much! Hope to see you as a sub!
Great videos Sr!!👍🏽
Howdy JJC! Thanks very much! I have many more videos on the way! Hope to see you as a sub! ☘️
Yes Sr thats for sure!!👍🏽
..dig the way you teach, brotha'. Thanks.💪🤟✌️
Howdy Berice! Thanks very much! Let me know if you have any project questions. Hope to see you as a sub! ☘️
16 " on center joists, 4 ' wide, 8' long OSB/plywood. I know that was just a slip of the tongue, but for any who didn't know. 😊 0:41
Don’t understand your question…the joists are 16” on center and I used 4’W x 8’L plywood. ***I did NOT use OSB (Oriented Strand Board) … I used plywood - big difference.
Love the video. Wondering why you didn’t use treated plywood?
Howdy Richard! In my location the only treated wood permitted for indoor use is the sill board. Yes, treated joists and plywood would most likely last longer, but not always allowed by code. But remember, the reason this floor and most joists needed to be replaced was due to a slow water leak that continued for years - not natural elements. The relatively easy / low cost fix to stop the water leak would have prevented the costly, complete replacement of the floor / entire kitchen remodel. Thanks for the comment and question! ☘️
What did you do for the planks that did not land on a joist after the cuts? Blocking between joist?
Very helpfull video. Thanks
HowdyMarek Włodarczyk! Thanks very much...let me know if you have any questions. ☘️
Can I install backer board on solid wood subflooring like this here or it's better to replace it for 3/4 plywood?
Howdy Marek Włodarczyk! Unfortunately - you should not install cement board directly to a solid wood subfloor. The best thing to do is install 1/2” plywood over the solid wood subfloor. First screw the solid wood subfloor boards to the joists. Next use construction adhesive and screws placed 6” on center to secure the 1/2” plywood to the solid wood subfloor. Then spread thinset and install your cement board.
This will yield the most stable substrate for your tile install to ensure it will last for many years.
Good luck on your install and let me know if you have any more questions. ☘️
💁I will have to just give it a shot ☺️
Did this floor require a vapour barrier?
Danm, very nice job,,,,,,
Howdy Art Pegg! Thanks for the comment! ☘️
Thanks for the video, I found it helpful as I had to repair three 14 foot floor joist in my 1940's home. I used this video as my guide. I have a question, in sistering the new joist, I found that there is a slight but noticeable difference in the height of the old versus new joist. Do I need to be concerned about this? I suppose I could plane them down some to level things out, but is this necessary? When would you be concerned about the height difference? I would appreciate your thoughts? Thanks.
Awesome video very helpful
Howdy Enrique Felix jr.! Thanks very much ... glad the video is a valuable resource for you. Thanks for the comment and hope to see you as a subscriber! ☘️
What screws did you use
What about the bottom cord of that exterior wall? Wouldn't that have to be replaced also? I ask because it looks rotten.
Great music tracks. 👍
Howdy Sam S! Thanks...Jonivan really puts out soMe great music!
I have a few comments about the electrical part. You can not install BX wire into a plastic box. Has to be metal. And the wire in a kitchen needs to be 12awg not 14. But over all i think the floor looked good.
In Texas, blue boxes meet code, not sure where these guys are?
Plastic boxes are not rated to use with bx nor mc wire...its only made to use with romex wire....here in Jersey by code you need at least 2 (20amp) dedicated circuit for the counter Recep only..never use 14 wire for outlets...and you need a dedicated circuit for each appliance your having in the kitchen...
Do you have a video showing the wiring process for a series of can lights and for a series of outlets? I would appreciate it.
Any bulbs, any amount! 💐🌷
What?
Are metal nail plates required on the studs to protect the electrical wiring from nails etc?
Howdy Shaun Louis! Yep - they are required.
Are you gonna make sure you block in the end were the board seem id
Howdy Jason! As long as your floor joists are 16” OC or less (these we’re actually 14.5” OC) blocking is not required. Thanks for the question and for checkout the video! ☘️
Aren't you supposed to put metal plates on every stud the wire goes through to protect the wire?
Yep - you sure do. But I haven’t gotten to that stage of the project yet. Don’t have to install those at this point, but they do get installed before insulation and drywall. Keep watching….
My ocd hates that you left it dirty under subfloor
thanks for this video, but why you suggest 4 corner of plywood do not intercept together ? I mean what is the reason not to. thanks
Howdy steven Gao! Thanks for the question...it’s just not as strong if all four corners come together at one point. There is just the possibility of more subfloor movement/weakness at a four-point intersection. Let me know if you have any more questions. ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY thanks got it
do you think spraying car undercoating on the beams would be a good ideal to keep moisture away from the beams
Howdy Naveod! Hmmm - I'd have to think on that waterproofing technique. My concern would be that you may completely seal up the wood - which is the goal and sounds good - but if water did find its way in it would have no where to go and the wood would rot. There are some deck beam and joist waterproofing products out there these days, but they seal up the top of the wood and leave the bottom exposed to allow for any water in the wood to dissipate. Thanks for the question!
I assume none of it was done under any kind of permit.
In Britain we use plastic clips to hold the cables rather than metal.
why are you not using tongue and groove osb?
Not required....and I don’t like OSB...one leak and it’s ruined. This is the highest grade plywood for interior use. I prefer the superior strength and stability of plywood.
Hello , I had a quick question. My subfloor and the backer board are laid. As I walk acroos there are areas where the floor is sunken as I walk . Is that normal ?
Howdy Alejandra Montelongo! It’s hard to say without seeing the floor in person...But no - that is not normal. The floor should be level before tile is installed. However, due to settling in older house, a floor slightly out of level may occur in older homes.
For installing larger tiles, the floor is allowed 1/8” of variation in ten feet; for smaller tiles, 1/4” is allowed in ten feet. Anyplace with more than that is out of tolerance for tile install, and something must be done to bring the floor into tolerance so the tile can be installed flat and without excessive lippage.
You mention “areas where the floor is sunken” as you walk around. How big is the room? If you are able to notice low spots visually, that is concerning. Is your floor within the tolerances noted above?
If your joists are structurally sound, you could use a floor leveling compound to get your subfloor to level. BUT the lever should be applied before the concrete board underlayment.
Could have cleaned out underneath
What screws are you using for the subfloor ?
Howdy hkgonra! I am using 3” coated deck screws - brand name is Deckmate. Probably overkill for an interior job, but I know they will last a long time. Thanks for checking out the video!!! ☘️
Do And Brew - DIY Thanks, I have used 2.5 or 3in deck screws before but been told multiple times those aren’t “approved” for subfloor and I should be using screws specifically for subfloor.
Howdy hkgonra! I have installed many subfloors using Deckmate screws...never had an inspector flag or question the install. Number 8, 10 or 12 screws are recommended for subfloor installs...using #10 Deckmates is a good choice for longevity....using an outdoor screw indoors. What type of screws have you been told to use over coated deck screws...do you know of a code requirement?
So fix a sub floor do the ends have to meet end from end. With it being an attic floor it will be difficult to reach
Attic floors generally do not get water damage unless you have a roof leak, and if you have a roof leak that damaged the attic joists, you likely have water damage further down as well.
Water pipes were to old..why not replace when joist cut out ??????
Howdy Ed Cox! No hard water issues in this area...no corrosion....no other issues. Besides, old heavy gauge/thick copper is way better than today’s thin/cheap copper. Hope to see you as a sub! ☘️
Why don't you use some wood preserver over the new joists?
My dad: "Nah, we don't need to turn the power off - just don't touch any of the wires in the box and you'll be fine"
Well....it’s only 110 right!?!? You probably know this now...always secure at the breaker and then double check with a circuit tester. ☘️
My OCD would have me cleaning up all that debris under the joists before I laid the sub floor. Just me.
I don't get it, constantly similar videos here in YT where floor and some joist are rotted and you doesn't replace all of them. Wood can't be so expensive that it's worth to sister joist and leave some possible partially rotted wood.
Howdy Mr. Wizeguy! Yep - you DON’T get it. Sistering wooden structural members is an age-old technique to repair / replace rotten or week structural members when the is no way to support the new wood that replaces the rotten wood. In this case - if I wanted to remove the entry floor joist - I would have had to pull up the dining room oak floor since these joist support both floors ... why do that?
Clearly I cut the old floor joist sufficiently to remove all of the rot...just because a board is old and not the same color as the new wood doesn’t mean it’s rotten.
Thanks for watching and for the comment! ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY I like using the carriage bolts in addition to the deck screws. When I do this. I also use Liquid Nail between the sister joists. Just a little more solidification.
Howdy Gizmologist1! Thanks...liquid nails is a good tip!!! ☘️
did you block between your joist especially at the end of the plywood sheets??? likely not...buzz words like "sistering joists" has you in the know. it even has you not thinking of what is required.....diaphragm strength of your floor isn't created without blocking ..
Interesting I was just talking to my wife about this, she was wondering why many add block at the wall end but not in the middle of floor at the end of a sheet
sir i would work for you free of charge just for passed on knowledge im useless as crap thank you for your knowledge
Sorry, comment made to wrong site.
👍
I used a republican amount of adhesive, the liberals kept trying to ration it out.