Just found this video because I believe mines starting on the driver side. Super impressed by the video and details. You gained my like, subscribe and comment!
If anyone else does this it would be super helpful to document it. It would be nice to have another guide just to make sure this process gets done correctly and nothing is damaged. Thanks for the video
having this issue on my 2015 tundra..seen video but having trouble loosing timing chain with screwdriver like video. cant releive tension..how did you do it?? help please
hmm did my first one 3 weeks ago.. figured i could do the next like this. good thing this video exists so i know how im doing them from now on! (ive done the 3.5 rear cam gears in the car, so this shouldnt be much harder)
Just bought a 2012 with 135k 5.7L in Feb. 2023. Was trade in at Chevy dealer. They must have cleaned up the leak because I specifically looked for it w a spotlight. Mine seems like a seepage. No topping off any oil. Also about 3 months ago, I have the infamous timing chain (slight) cold start rattle start too. Now I am thinking to just get the timing chain done and while im at it, might as well do the cam towers as well since its all there in one shot saving on labor. The wife and I like the clean accident free dealer serviced truck. With all oil changes done on time. I guess I cannot complain. Was $15500 plus tax, tags. Paid cash. Plan on keeping it a LONG time.
Just had this done on my truck and he said tensioners are a real pain to get in and hes been doing this for literally 30 years said RUclips video makes it look real easy lol price was 750 for both sides thank god I know him 😅
EXCELLENT VIDEO! I’ve replaced many timing chains, and the 4.7 Toyota Tundra timing belt. I love the challenge, built many diesel and gasoline engines. This is incredible! Thank you very much, I know what it takes to keep the timing chain in place. I love the hexagons for the wrench on the cams. The hex lets you move them just enough to re-pin the dowel in the drive gear or cams. As long as you keep the tension on the chain so it can’t jump a tooth, you got it made!
Heyyyy!!!! I got it!!! I kept at it and just like in your video the little cylinder to the tensioner finally went all the way up, you just have to keep moving that lever back n forward and press until it'll finally release that oil trapped in there and go all the way up!! Thanks !! I'm on my way now!!! Tundra been down about 6months now...YESSS!!
Is it required to remove the fuel line on the driver's side? Or just makes it easier to get it out of the way? I prefer to not disturb any connections that aren't necessary, but some are just better to remove and clear out of the way. Thanks for a super helpful video!
What is it with Toyota not using pre-made gaskets? What’s the cause of this problem? Is it a faulty design, is the factory sealant inferior, or is the sealant being installed incorrectly? Ever see another leak after performing the repair? How many hours of labor?
Is this a pretty common problem? Searched a few threads and seems like it is with the grey seal, and toyota doesnt really wanna fix unless you raise cane? I had a 2013 with the 4.6 about 90k miles and no problems i knew of. Looking to get another on or maybe a 2015 with a 5.7 but this has me rethinking. Thanks for the vid!
Nice work!! I am a Benz tech and my '13 with 74k miles just broke #6 exhaust valve spring-- Can I just move the exhaust cam out of the way and put a new spring in? Looking for the easiest way. Thanks PS you do side work??
Like that technique to reseal those cam towers. Believe me, I know well enough about those engines and I do quite the same. Anyways, Great Job and thanks for Sharing! You got a Sub! Also can you tell me the Name of that tune towards the end of your Vid?
Hello there, hey your video got me over a stump pulling my heads off, didn't know how to get my cams loose from my timing chain sprockets, so with your video I was able to move past that part and get my heads off to change my head gasket but now putting it back together I can't seem to get my tensioner loose enough to put my sprocket with chain on back onto my cams as easy as you did in your video...need help
hands down to the workin man. you deserve more thumbs up for doing this. i hate this motor because of this. how many hours did you flag on this? i know i will struggle on this when i get one. lol. maybe ill just send them to you customer pay. lol
I dig the quick repair but if that primary chain comes off a tooth, that engine is toast. Shame you cannot replace the chain tensioners through the valve covers. Would have been nice if Yota put an access cover over the tensioners...
one of the techs that I work with tried it this way and blew up the motor. we don't know how. think the tensioner got damaged when he was trying to get the plunger in. they have a lot of oil pressure and are very difficult to get the tensioner plunger in.
I don't understand why there is not a "Real" gasket for this instead of that black silicone/paste/gasket maker? What did the earlier engines use that didn't have this problem?
I own a 2013 Tundra 5.7 with 85K miles on it which seems to have developed a cam tower leak. My dealership has quoted me a $4,901.00 estimate to fix this issue. I realize this is a big job, however I'm having a problem spending that kind of money on a repair if it's only going to reoccur in the future. Can anyone tell me if the seals/gaskets have been redesigned to eliminate this leak issue in the future? Is there a better sealer to use or aftermarket seals that won't prematurely fail? A $5,000 engine repair bill on a Toyota engine with only 85K miles on it is a hard pill to swallow.
one of the techs that I work with tried it this way and blew up the motor. we don't know how. think the tensioner got damaged when he was trying to get the plunger in. they have a lot of oil pressure and are very difficult to get the tensioner plunger in.
What years are affected by this issue? I’m looking at purchasing a 2008 sequoia with the 5.7 and 4x4. I’m curious if this issue is more prevalent with the newer models. Any input?
I think Toyota started using better silicone in the later models (2016 and up) but I could be wrong. I've seen newer 5.7 with almost 200k miles without leaking oil.
Why not just remove the front timing cover? I'm new to this motor and just trying to understand (not challenging). Removing the front timing cover would allow you to also replace the tensioners (preventative maintenance if previous owner was lazy with oil changes), and make the chain/sprocket removal much easier. Or does that add a significant amount of time to the job? Just curious. This method looks like a great alternative but (sounds like from the comments) that the biggest struggle is getting the tensioners released from the top, hence the opening question. Thanks so much for a super helpful video!
may not have wanted to have to replace the water pump and oil pump seals and all of that good stuff. Also avoids taking out the radiator and everything else on the serpentine belt. I would have removed the front timing cover as well as then you could replace the timing chain assembly along with all of the seals including the valve covers but some may want to avoid having to go through the whole thing.
@@wiscopackers12 Got it, thank you. That makes sense. Sounds like there are pros/cons with either approach, but could to have an alternative solution that doesn't require removing the whole front end. Thanks again.
I'd like to know the same thing. Is it a major leak? Will you notice a significant oil level drop on the dip stick? Or can you just keep an eye on it and top it off if needed? I'm thinking of trading my '07 Sequoia for a '16.
So, when a mechanic uses this shortcut, the timing belt skips a tooth, and the engine is trashed, does the mechanic buy the customer a new engine at their own expense, does the mechanic play dumb, tell the customer there was something wrong with their engine, and try to screw the customer?
Hey man. Thad an awesome video . I have a '14 tundra with 40k miles and it just happened 2 days ago . It's leaking oil from the driver's side. IS THERE A RECALL FOR THIS ISSUES ?
Doing this job currently. Had my pick in the tensioner, and it managed to fall out. You think I can get the tensioner compressed again or will I have to take the cover off....
How many hours did it actually take to complete this? I’m a tech myself and need to do this on my personal truck. This will be the first time I’ve done a cam tower job. Thanks
Jesse Danger, my idea for the video was mostly to show techs how to do the job without pulling the front cover. Most people getting this involved with an engine have access to Alldata or something simular that show that in better detail.
When this happens, is it a major leak? Will you notice a significant drop in oil level on the dip stick? Or can you just keep an eye on it and top it off if needed? I'm thinking of trading my '07 Sequoia for a '16.
I have a 2012 tundra and it doesn't drip oil on the ground because it hits the exhaust and burns. The smell of burnt oil is annoying but still no need to top off oil between oil changes. Leak is very small and has been for the last 5 years.
@@carlospastran3527 Thanks for the answer I think mine might be leaking but it's very minimal and I haven't had to add oil yet between changes so I plan on living with it.
Same with my 2013 Toyota Tundra. More of a seep. No oil on floor and don’t have to add oil in 10000 mile oil changes. 165000 miles and does not appear to be getting worse.
don't know, he made it look way to easy. one of the techs that I work with tried it this way and blew up the motor. we don't know how. think the tensioner got damaged when he was trying to get the plunger in. they have a lot of oil pressure and are very difficult to get the tensioner plunger in.
I'm wondering if you or anyone knows if the problem has been resolved by Toyota on 2019 or later year? The only info I am able to find on the web is about 2010-2018 years
Just had my 2014 with 125000 KM on it diagnosed with the cam tower leak as well as timing chain cover leak. Brings back nightmares of my 5.4l Ford pickup!
Are Cam Tower Leaks a common problem for the 5.7 L motor? How often do they occur? 1 out of 10, 1out of 100, 1 out of 1000? This seems like a significant flaw with this motor. Have they fixed the problem for the 2021 models?
When this happens, is it a major leak? Will you notice a significant drop in oil level on the dip stick? Or can you just keep an eye on it and top it off if needed? I'm thinking of trading my '05 tundra for a 07.
I've been having this issue for 5 years now on my 2012 tundra. Very small leak, no need to top off oil between oil changes but the smell of burnt oil on the exhaust is annoying.
I have an 07 I'm working on right now and watched this video to the T and I just can't get my timing chain sprocket back onto my cams as simple as he did...I think I'm not getting enough slack in my chain. My tensioner is bot going all the way back in, only a little...this is all I need to do to get everything back together...frustrating
Great video! Is this problem still occurring in the '16 & '17 Tundras? My '12 started @ 75k miles. I've stopped it using a qt of Lucas stop leak in every oil change. Mine was minor on 1 side(so far)
According to the tundra forums, it is still happening to the 16, 17abd 18s. Its amazing that Toyota hasn't done something about this yet. My 14 is leaking very slightly on the driver side
I just stuff shop towels in the opening of the front cover so nothing falls down inside. Ive done 4 trucks this way no prob. Bot pulling the front cover saves a lot of time. You do have beyyer access to things though. As oong as you get it fixed right.
After the dealer wanted 7k to do this job, i did it myself about 40k miles ago roughly 2 years ago on my 13 tundra. And no seeping or leaks to date.. i use and drive the truck hard, did about 20 hours worth of research and it took me 3 hours per side. Started on sunday morning at 10am and finished up and running at 430pm. Maybe working on vehicles is my calling, i would only charge 800 a side 1600 total. The damn dealer wanted 7000... jesus
Would every Toyota service have at least one mechanic who can do this type of work at their dealer service? I just left my tundra 2016 with both cam shaft tower seal leak and very nervous about this. Even more nervous because one on the front guys said that he is not aware that they ever done this repair on any Toyota tundra. Once engine is open once I don't think that engine is that good as factory assembly. Please let me know if I'm wrong 🤔
Its common enough that im sure any dealer can handle it no problem. It should be better then factory now because they replace all the gaskets with new ones and use a better sealant then factory.
Just got call from dealer and person from Toyota warranty approved to do both sides. They said parts are already ordered and team of head mechanics will work on my tundra unless he lied to me. Wondering how long would take to get those parts and he said they won't open engine until they get all necessary parts at service. He don't have competition date yet, originally I was told by end of the week. Also what he mentioned that most likely they will pull engine out or enough to work on it. Is this true that they need to pull out engine. Also after he stated that they may come up with different solution, don't know what he means by saying that. Also he said definitely they will not remove cab in order to perform this repair, I didn't even ask him about this. Your thoughts?
Leo K, sounds like they dont do too many of them the old way is to remove cab or engine but thats way too much work, i posted this video to show techs how to do it faster and safer.
How soon should I change oil after this repair to get rid of debris? Do you recommend something? My truck is repaired on Friday and interesting dealer said 9.5 hours working but both sides are done. Also they recharge AC. Did they had to remove something from AC?
When i do it i don't remove the ac line, just work around it. I run the truck for a bit then change the oil, so you shouldn't need to again till the regulator interval.
The Workin' Man thanks a lot for your response. Actually I noticed that they put on invoice 8 quart oil but I changed oil in 300 miles after their repair and they lied that they were changed oil. Very unprofessional, also I found a lot debris including that gray seal on the filter, filter were old one and was not changed. I think they 6 just add little oil not change oil. What is the typical procedure.
Just took my wife's Sequoia in for an oil change. And was told It needs cam towers re-seal. They want $5,000 is that an accurate price or is the dealer trying to screw me??
This has affected the 5.7 engines for several model years. Why hasen't this company addressed this issue ? Why don't they do the right thing and own up to the issue and at least extend the warranty to cover this problem ? I have a 2014 that i put only 5k per year on so mine will no doubt happen when the warranty expires which i'm sure toyota is hoping for. Come on toyota do the right and ethical thing here !! These vehicles are to expensive just to receive this kind of (or lack of) service.
If you call toyotas 1-800 customer service number they are very good at stepping up and covering vehicles outside of factory warranty for issues like this. I'm pretty sure that they have tracked down the issue to the curing process on the fipg sealant. If yours is going to leak, typically it will happen very early. When I do these at the dealer I can see that only the ones that leak the sealant is still tacky. Once we reseal it with the black fipg they never leak.
@@jameshasenjaeger5181Hi James... I'm looking for a used Sequoia... are there specific years to avoid, or are all years affected ? Where do I look for the leak, to determine if it has the leak ? Thank You
Gerard , it’s usually towards the backside of the cylinder head/cam tower right above the exhaust manifold. This is potential for all 5.7 toyota engines.
There is a gasket, you can see it better at 4:25 on the left side. It looks pretty thin on the right side, and you can tell that's where it was leaking from due to the collection of oil. He's removing the old one with the wire attachment.
Leave no evidence for the warranty police! Waiting for bulletin addressing this lol. Guessing you flagged all associated parts for the long way, hopfully.
Incredible craftsmanship. Been following this issue for a long time. Thanks for taking the time to make and post!
Wow I am impressed! Did 3 and never thought of a short cut like this till today. I thought I gotten fast at it ! Definitely doing this on my next one
Just found this video because I believe mines starting on the driver side. Super impressed by the video and details. You gained my like, subscribe and comment!
You made that job look like a gravy train with biscuit wheels, good job.
If anyone else does this it would be super helpful to document it. It would be nice to have another guide just to make sure this process gets done correctly and nothing is damaged. Thanks for the video
Thank you so much for the video. I followed it to the letter and was able to fix a 2012 Tundra with leaking cam towers.
having this issue on my 2015 tundra..seen video but having trouble loosing timing chain with screwdriver like video. cant releive tension..how did you do it?? help please
As a flat rate tech. I love these job. 15-20 hours to reseal the cam towers. Done by lunch time 😉😉good work brother.
hmm did my first one 3 weeks ago.. figured i could do the next like this. good thing this video exists so i know how im doing them from now on! (ive done the 3.5 rear cam gears in the car, so this shouldnt be much harder)
Awesome video! Straight to the point!
Que bien se siente uno cuando lleva su carro a un profesional y te hace un excelenticimo trabajo eso no tiene precio
Just bought a 2012 with 135k 5.7L in Feb. 2023. Was trade in at Chevy dealer. They must have cleaned up the leak because I specifically looked for it w a spotlight. Mine seems like a seepage. No topping off any oil. Also about 3 months ago, I have the infamous timing chain (slight) cold start rattle start too. Now I am thinking to just get the timing chain done and while im at it, might as well do the cam towers as well since its all there in one shot saving on labor. The wife and I like the clean accident free dealer serviced truck. With all oil changes done on time. I guess I cannot complain. Was $15500 plus tax, tags. Paid cash. Plan on keeping it a LONG time.
Just had this done on my truck and he said tensioners are a real pain to get in and hes been doing this for literally 30 years said RUclips video makes it look real easy lol price was 750 for both sides thank god I know him 😅
Dude! Your pretty bad ass! My truck doesn’t have this problem but if it ever does. I will know how to fix it!
By the way the beat is smashing baby love that music and really matches your work...the sound of i got this!!
Awesome! Thanks for making the video.
Love these jobs as a flat rate tech 😉😉 I also pull the timing cover off with the valve covers still on 😉😉
EXCELLENT VIDEO! I’ve replaced many timing chains, and the 4.7 Toyota Tundra timing belt. I love the challenge, built many diesel and gasoline engines. This is incredible! Thank you very much, I know what it takes to keep the timing chain in place. I love the hexagons for the wrench on the cams. The hex lets you move them just enough to re-pin the dowel in the drive gear or cams. As long as you keep the tension on the chain so it can’t jump a tooth, you got it made!
Great video, thanks for posting. May just try to do the fix myself. But I have to know where you got the intro music. That is catchy as hell.
Heyyyy!!!! I got it!!! I kept at it and just like in your video the little cylinder to the tensioner finally went all the way up, you just have to keep moving that lever back n forward and press until it'll finally release that oil trapped in there and go all the way up!! Thanks !! I'm on my way now!!! Tundra been down about 6months now...YESSS!!
Did you get it done ok
Great video. Watched it like 10 times now; tackling my first cam carrier job this morning. Been avoiding these for too long now.
How did it go ?
Good Work. Own a 2011 Crewmax with 65K just waiting for that day to happen.
Don Frederick get ready, my 2012 started leaking from driver's side at 55K
Good job! I'm always scared to short cut em like that.
Is it required to remove the fuel line on the driver's side? Or just makes it easier to get it out of the way? I prefer to not disturb any connections that aren't necessary, but some are just better to remove and clear out of the way. Thanks for a super helpful video!
How did you retract and lock the tensioners for the sub chain?
Your legend 🤘🤘🤘💪💪also my tundra
😁 have Same a problem thank you pro
What is it with Toyota not using pre-made gaskets? What’s the cause of this problem? Is it a faulty design, is the factory sealant inferior, or is the sealant being installed incorrectly? Ever see another leak after performing the repair? How many hours of labor?
@The Workin’ Man what kind of wrench did you use to loosen the camshaft I know it’s a 17mm
Is this a pretty common problem? Searched a few threads and seems like it is with the grey seal, and toyota doesnt really wanna fix unless you raise cane? I had a 2013 with the 4.6 about 90k miles and no problems i knew of. Looking to get another on or maybe a 2015 with a 5.7 but this has me rethinking. Thanks for the vid!
Will this work with the 4.6? A I stupid for even considering purchasing a Tundra with this issue that was revealed during a pre purchase inspection?
Nice work!! I am a Benz tech and my '13 with 74k miles just broke #6 exhaust valve spring-- Can I just move the exhaust cam out of the way and put a new spring in? Looking for the easiest way. Thanks PS you do side work??
freaking awesome video. mine has so much work to do including this and I do not have the balls yet to do...
I too felt the "impossible task" reapers cold hands on my engine block...standing over me.
Thanks so much.what are the Torque specs for the cam tower thanks
Is it the same method for the 1UR-FSE? Would I still have to drain the coolant if I have the electric fans?
Like that technique to reseal those cam towers. Believe me, I know well enough about those engines and I do quite the same. Anyways, Great Job and thanks for Sharing! You got a Sub! Also can you tell me the Name of that tune towards the end of your Vid?
You probably covered this somewhere already, but how many hours did it take you?
Thanks!
Man that engine was spotless
SAVED MY LIFE
Hello there, hey your video got me over a stump pulling my heads off, didn't know how to get my cams loose from my timing chain sprockets, so with your video I was able to move past that part and get my heads off to change my head gasket but now putting it back together I can't seem to get my tensioner loose enough to put my sprocket with chain on back onto my cams as easy as you did in your video...need help
hands down to the workin man. you deserve more thumbs up for doing this. i hate this motor because of this. how many hours did you flag on this? i know i will struggle on this when i get one. lol. maybe ill just send them to you customer pay. lol
Christopher Sarno, i flagged 9.8 for warranty
I dig the quick repair but if that primary chain comes off a tooth, that engine is toast. Shame you cannot replace the chain tensioners through the valve covers. Would have been nice if Yota put an access cover over the tensioners...
one of the techs that I work with tried it this way and blew up the motor. we don't know how. think the tensioner got damaged when he was trying to get the plunger in. they have a lot of oil pressure and are very difficult to get the tensioner plunger in.
I don't understand why there is not a "Real" gasket for this instead of that black silicone/paste/gasket maker? What did the earlier engines use that didn't have this problem?
If only leaking on the passenger side, do you want to repair both sides?
Legit vid man
Hi @the workin' man - What dealer do you work at? I'd like to bring my truck to you!
Nice job!
At 7:03 what are you doing there? Looks like you are pressing down on something with the pry bar.
I own a 2013 Tundra 5.7 with 85K miles on it which seems to have developed a cam tower leak. My dealership has quoted me a $4,901.00 estimate to fix this issue. I realize this is a big job, however I'm having a problem spending that kind of money on a repair if it's only going to reoccur in the future. Can anyone tell me if the seals/gaskets have been redesigned to eliminate this leak issue in the future? Is there a better sealer to use or aftermarket seals that won't prematurely fail? A $5,000 engine repair bill on a Toyota engine with only 85K miles on it is a hard pill to swallow.
Where are you? You need to do mine 2013 82K miles 1 owner. They said they are a leaking! No gasket between the cam cradles and the head ??
Brilliant sir where are you located I need both sides done.
Clearly you're a pro at doing this job. What kind of time is one looking at to do this job? Is it a full day? A whole weekend?
Is there any risk of the chain jumping time on the crank sprocket doing it this way? Wicked shortcut, thanks for sharing!
one of the techs that I work with tried it this way and blew up the motor. we don't know how. think the tensioner got damaged when he was trying to get the plunger in. they have a lot of oil pressure and are very difficult to get the tensioner plunger in.
Now, would be nice if you could replace pesky timing tensioner without removing the whole front.
Pro in action
Anyone knows who can do this in maryland to my truck ?
I would like someone expert on this.
Did I miss it! Never saw any FIPG used?
What years are affected by this issue? I’m looking at purchasing a 2008 sequoia with the 5.7 and 4x4. I’m curious if this issue is more prevalent with the newer models. Any input?
All of them have this problem eventually regardless of model year.
I think Toyota started using better silicone in the later models (2016 and up) but I could be wrong. I've seen newer 5.7 with almost 200k miles without leaking oil.
Why not just remove the front timing cover? I'm new to this motor and just trying to understand (not challenging). Removing the front timing cover would allow you to also replace the tensioners (preventative maintenance if previous owner was lazy with oil changes), and make the chain/sprocket removal much easier.
Or does that add a significant amount of time to the job? Just curious.
This method looks like a great alternative but (sounds like from the comments) that the biggest struggle is getting the tensioners released from the top, hence the opening question.
Thanks so much for a super helpful video!
may not have wanted to have to replace the water pump and oil pump seals and all of that good stuff. Also avoids taking out the radiator and everything else on the serpentine belt. I would have removed the front timing cover as well as then you could replace the timing chain assembly along with all of the seals including the valve covers but some may want to avoid having to go through the whole thing.
@@wiscopackers12 Got it, thank you. That makes sense. Sounds like there are pros/cons with either approach, but could to have an alternative solution that doesn't require removing the whole front end. Thanks again.
yup having that issue with loosing timing chain on cam sprockets without removing timing chain cover. need help😢
Is there a specific RTV that I should be using for this repair, as it is black and not Grey like the factory Fipg? Thank you
The updated fipg from Toyota is black.
@@theworkinman8800 So no specific brand?
@@nissan2005 use Toyota brand FIPG. That or Honda which is better than Toyota, but I cant vouch on it for this job
Great video, l am trying to fix the cam tower leakage from my 2014 tundra. Did you use gaske or sealant on towers ?
Thats what i was wondering
In another post he said he used Toyota Form In Place gasket maker
Where is this mechanic help
Bad valve gasket or leaking cam tower? How can I tell the difference? Thanks
where its leaking. Valve gasket would be between the valve cover and cam tower, the can tower leak would be between the block and the cam tower.
Is this leak a huge issue if not addressed? I been wanting to get a new tundra but dont want deal with this issue if it exists on new models
I'd like to know the same thing. Is it a major leak? Will you notice a significant oil level drop on the dip stick? Or can you just keep an eye on it and top it off if needed? I'm thinking of trading my '07 Sequoia for a '16.
So, when a mechanic uses this shortcut, the timing belt skips a tooth, and the engine is trashed, does the mechanic buy the customer a new engine at their own expense, does the mechanic play dumb, tell the customer there was something wrong with their engine, and try to screw the customer?
Hey man. Thad an awesome video . I have a '14 tundra with 40k miles and it just happened 2 days ago . It's leaking oil from the driver's side. IS THERE A RECALL FOR THIS ISSUES ?
No recall just a TSB
93toyota4x4V6 did they finish your tundra and what are the results? What is your experience with it?
The Workin' Man what is the TSB # ?
@@TaylorJones20 - Possibly a "Technical Service Bulletin"?
Doing this job currently. Had my pick in the tensioner, and it managed to fall out. You think I can get the tensioner compressed again or will I have to take the cover off....
Yeah, ive had it fall out, its a pain but you can get it compressed again
Well that’s good news. How do you
Manage to get it in? Chanel locks are the closest I’ve gotten but they slip off since they don’t get enough bite
Managed to get it. Now onto the driver side.... damn tensioner on that one won’t budge
Drivers side doesn't move as far
used any seal or gasket for this repair? thanks
Of course he did. He used Toyota FIPG sealant
Do you think it would be possible to replace the timing chain tensioners that way ?
Not likely
@@theworkinman8800 The front cover has to come off to replace the tensioners.
cover def has to come off.
How many hours did it actually take to complete this? I’m a tech myself and need to do this on my personal truck. This will be the first time I’ve done a cam tower job. Thanks
It took about 7 hours, first time maybe 10
Took me rougy 6.5 hours if you stay focused on it, and have all your tools layed out on the work bench already.
Why did you leave out the silicone application step?? That’s the most important part.
Jesse Danger, my idea for the video was mostly to show techs how to do the job without pulling the front cover. Most people getting this involved with an engine have access to Alldata or something simular that show that in better detail.
Same question. Would like to know what sealant you used and maybe see the placement pattern.
Was the Timing not critical that might jump?
That's why you mark everything with paint marker. You use a wrench to move the cams in order to line up the gears when installing.
Hi WORKIN MAN - did you use THREEBOND 1207B ?
I used Toyota FIPG, (form in place gasket)
When this happens, is it a major leak? Will you notice a significant drop in oil level on the dip stick? Or can you just keep an eye on it and top it off if needed? I'm thinking of trading my '07 Sequoia for a '16.
I have a 2012 tundra and it doesn't drip oil on the ground because it hits the exhaust and burns. The smell of burnt oil is annoying but still no need to top off oil between oil changes. Leak is very small and has been for the last 5 years.
@@carlospastran3527 Thanks for the answer I think mine might be leaking but it's very minimal and I haven't had to add oil yet between changes so I plan on living with it.
Same with my 2013 Toyota Tundra. More of a seep. No oil on floor and don’t have to add oil in 10000 mile oil changes. 165000 miles and does not appear to be getting worse.
@@carlospastran3527 I second this. Until it get's worse I'll avoid it. I just keep my blower on recirc all the time.
So did u drain the oil to get some more slack out of the tentioner because i am doing one now and its not pushing into the tensioner housing
don't know, he made it look way to easy. one of the techs that I work with tried it this way and blew up the motor. we don't know how. think the tensioner got damaged when he was trying to get the plunger in. they have a lot of oil pressure and are very difficult to get the tensioner plunger in.
@@davidstiver2304 ya i ended up just taking all off 😂😂 it sucks
@@Shanethetoyotech yea, thats the route I go. I thought about trying this, but rather be safe than sorry.
I'm wondering if you or anyone knows if the problem has been resolved by Toyota on 2019 or later year? The only info I am able to find on the web is about 2010-2018 years
Just had my 2014 with 125000 KM on it diagnosed with the cam tower leak as well as timing chain cover leak. Brings back nightmares of my 5.4l Ford pickup!
Time will tell
Are Cam Tower Leaks a common problem for the 5.7 L motor? How often do they occur? 1 out of 10, 1out of 100, 1 out of 1000? This seems like a significant flaw with this motor. Have they fixed the problem for the 2021 models?
If you go through any of the tundra forums it’s a pretty common thing unfortunately on the 5.7 and the 4.6... my 2013 4.6 has it
They all do it. Toyota hasn't addressed it. Have done them on 21s which is the last year of this engine
@@kennethebel7726 wow 21' already needed cam tower seals? seesh
It's not 1 out of 10, or 1 out of 100, or 1 out of 1,000. It's more like 1 out of 1.
its an fipg gasket, it will leak like any other gasket.
When this happens, is it a major leak? Will you notice a significant drop in oil level on the dip stick? Or can you just keep an eye on it and top it off if needed? I'm thinking of trading my '05 tundra for a 07.
I've been having this issue for 5 years now on my 2012 tundra. Very small leak, no need to top off oil between oil changes but the smell of burnt oil on the exhaust is annoying.
its usually a small leak in my experience. its a very expensive job though. like a 15 plus hour job.
I have an 07 I'm working on right now and watched this video to the T and I just can't get my timing chain sprocket back onto my cams as simple as he did...I think I'm not getting enough slack in my chain. My tensioner is bot going all the way back in, only a little...this is all I need to do to get everything back together...frustrating
@@charliethorne1255 did you get it done ? Thinkin bout doing mine but little nervous 😂
Great video! Is this problem still occurring in the '16 & '17 Tundras? My '12 started @ 75k miles. I've stopped it using a qt of Lucas stop leak in every oil change. Mine was minor on 1 side(so far)
According to the tundra forums, it is still happening to the 16, 17abd 18s. Its amazing that Toyota hasn't done something about this yet. My 14 is leaking very slightly on the driver side
Mine's now leaking on both sides. I plan on keeping the truck. I'm getting it repaired.
I saw on a forum that a couple people with 19's have had the problem starting already....so it's not been addressed yet in the new build....
@@gerard2620 Thanks for sharing that. Not good news for me tho. 2019 bought in September..
It was warranty, no need to pull front cover. I prefer pulling front cover though.
I just stuff shop towels in the opening of the front cover so nothing falls down inside. Ive done 4 trucks this way no prob. Bot pulling the front cover saves a lot of time. You do have beyyer access to things though. As oong as you get it fixed right.
At what point did you replace seals or gaskets?
This is what I couldn't find in the video. Goes from cleaning both sides to reassembly without any gasket/RTV being added...
After the dealer wanted 7k to do this job, i did it myself about 40k miles ago roughly 2 years ago on my 13 tundra. And no seeping or leaks to date.. i use and drive the truck hard, did about 20 hours worth of research and it took me 3 hours per side.
Started on sunday morning at 10am and finished up and running at 430pm.
Maybe working on vehicles is my calling, i would only charge 800 a side 1600 total.
The damn dealer wanted 7000... jesus
$266 per hour? Damn. You’re an expensive hobbyist mechanic.
Same leak on my 2011 Tundra. Dealer quote was 6800$ to do both seals.
@@Banshee365 well the dealer charges 7000... not to mention he’s including parts costs
@derak good job....did you use that black gasket maker or is there an actual "Real" gasket that you can buy for this?
@@dalephillips8250 i had one made by vitton it was pricey but guaranteed forever
Does the engine need to be at TDC to do this repair?
Yes. It has to be so that everything is in time.
@@toptierauto4160 thanks
What type of sealant do you use? Or where can I get parts
Everything is from the deal, i use toyota form in place gasket (FIPG)
@@theworkinman8800 Is this what's used on newer models from factory ?
toyota fipg
Any one please suggest how much it cost to repair at Toyota? Is it worth repairing it in small shop for less ??
We were just told 1000 - 2000 at the Toyota Dealership
How much do you charge for this job ?
Lol...just sell the truck
Can I postpone this repair with an oil leak repair fluid?
yes, its usually a small leak and will leak some oil on the exhaust, at least in my experience. its a 15 plus hr job so its very expensive.
@@davidstiver2304 could I use a sealer additive?
@@gaarafranco8667 don't see how that will do anything. fipg is used to seal 2 mating surfaces so an additive won't do anything.
Would every Toyota service have at least one mechanic who can do this type of work at their dealer service?
I just left my tundra 2016 with both cam shaft tower seal leak and very nervous about this. Even more nervous because one on the front guys said that he is not aware that they ever done this repair on any Toyota tundra.
Once engine is open once I don't think that engine is that good as factory assembly. Please let me know if I'm wrong 🤔
Its common enough that im sure any dealer can handle it no problem. It should be better then factory now because they replace all the gaskets with new ones and use a better sealant then factory.
The Workin' Man I hope they would replace all gaskets and necessary parts. Are these parts relatively in stock since they took my tundra yesterday?
The Workin' Man they do all this per book or technical support correct in case they are not done this yet at my service?
I am questioning wanting to buy a used sequoia . This is a huge expensive repair.
Just got call from dealer and person from Toyota warranty approved to do both sides. They said parts are already ordered and team of head mechanics will work on my tundra unless he lied to me.
Wondering how long would take to get those parts and he said they won't open engine until they get all necessary parts at service. He don't have competition date yet, originally I was told by end of the week.
Also what he mentioned that most likely they will pull engine out or enough to work on it. Is this true that they need to pull out engine. Also after he stated that they may come up with different solution, don't know what he means by saying that. Also he said definitely they will not remove cab in order to perform this repair, I didn't even ask him about this.
Your thoughts?
Leo K, sounds like they dont do too many of them the old way is to remove cab or engine but thats way too much work, i posted this video to show techs how to do it faster and safer.
The Workin' Man wish they would look into videos but I don't think they even let you tell them lol
How soon should I change oil after this repair to get rid of debris? Do you recommend something? My truck is repaired on Friday and interesting dealer said 9.5 hours working but both sides are done. Also they recharge AC. Did they had to remove something from AC?
When i do it i don't remove the ac line, just work around it. I run the truck for a bit then change the oil, so you shouldn't need to again till the regulator interval.
The Workin' Man thanks a lot for your response. Actually I noticed that they put on invoice 8 quart oil but I changed oil in 300 miles after their repair and they lied that they were changed oil. Very unprofessional, also I found a lot debris including that gray seal on the filter, filter were old one and was not changed. I think they 6 just add little oil not change oil.
What is the typical procedure.
I need help anybody in Austin
Just took my wife's Sequoia in for an oil change. And was told It needs cam towers re-seal. They want $5,000 is that an accurate price or is the dealer trying to screw me??
This has affected the 5.7 engines for several model years. Why hasen't this company addressed this issue ? Why don't they do the right thing and own up to the issue and at least extend the warranty to cover this problem ? I have a 2014 that i put only 5k per year on so mine will no doubt happen when the warranty expires which i'm sure toyota is hoping for. Come on toyota do the right and ethical thing here !! These vehicles are to expensive just to receive this kind of (or lack of) service.
ever owned a chevy? you know something is wrong when they stop leaking oil.
I always thought Toyota was the best in the business, now I'm having second thoughts.
If you call toyotas 1-800 customer service number they are very good at stepping up and covering vehicles outside of factory warranty for issues like this. I'm pretty sure that they have tracked down the issue to the curing process on the fipg sealant. If yours is going to leak, typically it will happen very early. When I do these at the dealer I can see that only the ones that leak the sealant is still tacky. Once we reseal it with the black fipg they never leak.
@@jameshasenjaeger5181Hi James... I'm looking for a used Sequoia... are there specific years to avoid, or are all years affected ? Where do I look for the leak, to determine if it has the leak ? Thank You
Gerard , it’s usually towards the backside of the cylinder head/cam tower right above the exhaust manifold. This is potential for all 5.7 toyota engines.
How many hours?…my dealer charged me $700 for both side
I think book was 13 took me 8. You got a good deal
That is a crazy good deal
Sorry I misunderstand my truck is still leaking now is the cam, Dealer is asking for 1700 for both sides
So theres no gasket? I swear it looks like mine has a paper gasket between the surfaces.
I noticed this as well.
There is a gasket, you can see it better at 4:25 on the left side. It looks pretty thin on the right side, and you can tell that's where it was leaking from due to the collection of oil. He's removing the old one with the wire attachment.
There was a very very thin layer of what looks like a silicon paste. Pretty disappointing from Toyota.
Leave no evidence for the warranty police! Waiting for bulletin addressing this lol. Guessing you flagged all associated parts for the long way, hopfully.
Warranty has known for a long time. By the time he did this, it only paid 9.8 according to another one of his comments
Why the f are we still doing this i.c.e. bs? Dear Rivian: sold....
Sweet, it's only a 13 min job! 😝🤣
Why didn’t not put a gaskets
yuancg ison if you look closely. He used a high temp gasket maker on the surface of the head before he put the cam towers back on!
Dealership wants $4000.00 to do this
I think I quit, too much bolts and nuts. EV time
Wow! What a huge pain in the ass Toyota!! Mine has the oil burn smell at 50k miles. 2012 model
I have that too. 2013 😭
@@brucefaith me too 2013 4.6 base model