How to Replace a Timing Chain on a Toyota Tundra 5.7l V8 3ur-fe
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- Опубликовано: 2 фев 2022
- Does your Toyota 5.7 V8 make a rattling noise on cold start? It could be a loose timing chain causing this noise. This video shows the general steps to replace all 4 timing chains and all 4 tensioners for the do-it-yourselfer. Helpful tips and tricks to get the job done with simple tools in your garage.
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Hey I hope you doing well.
I'm Mike ,let me tell you ,this was my first time opening and engine and change the timing chains and I really have a hard time searching for put the timing back, but when I saw your video an explanation made my life a lot easier because you said exactly what I need for finish that engine.
Thanks .
I have driven 8100 miles since the timing chains, tensioners, guides, replacement and it's still nice and quiet. No leaks, turn and burn~
This is one of the best repair videos I have seen. I have this exact noise from my 2008, has been driving me crazy. Well done.
Wow, excellent vid. I feel this will happen to my 2014 in the future. Starting to hear some slop in that area. My main problem is keeping my foot out of the gas. These 5.7s will get it. Quite fun.
That 5.7 is a pretty good engine worth fixing for sure
this video rocks....sir you have done an awesome job. I am right now doing this work, my 2007 toyo 5.7 blew the right head gasket. Truck has 272000 miles....but the gasket gave out. all original, chains, sprockets, lifters etc...all look brand new. however i have replace gaskets, lifters, cam chains both short and long. This engine is a monster and can be very intimidating, but I have surviced.... I just installed the heads/ cam cages, and working on timing chains. I wish i had the video equip to video,,,i have learned so much.
Great video. I reluctantly can't wait to use this as a guide. I'll be doing my cam towers as well during the process since they are leaking oil.
Use the Toyota 103 black sealer when you put the front timing cover back on. That stuff is strong and durable. It also dries quickly.so.make sure you have both parts cleaned and ready to go together before you start putting sealer on the cover and block. It get s tacky real fast.
Great video...I have a Toyota sienna 2014 and just today it was scanned and it has the same problem...
130k and had a head gasket leak on cylinder 8, after opening everything up found one of the chains to be stretched so ordered a whole kit and put it in. THANK YOU SO MUCH for the advice on the small chains because I COULD NOT get them to line back up but got the big chains to line back up every time after manually filling it over, I kept thinking it wasn’t in time and I was doing something wrong but after I watched this video and you broke it down and said don’t worry about it I immediately felt dumb but SUPER HAPPY so thank you for the breakdown brother your the best!
Excellent! I give you credit for doing that job. There's a lot that can go wrong!
Great job!!
Excellent video!!
Awesome video. Perfect timing. I'm about to attack this myself on my wife's 2014 Land Cruiser. Only has 105K on it. Rattles like crazy and has for a while. I was going to order the entire Telling kit but after watching this I think I will tear it down and see. Thinking I may just do the long chain tensioners due to the low mileage and not mess with the timing etc. Looks like a big job. Like your bolt organization method and crank pulley technique since I couldn't find a specific holder made for this engine. Thx!
You can probably get by with just replacing the tensioners. None of my chains were worn or stretched. The lower sprocket showed a small amount of wear but it was fine. Before you remove the actual tensioner, just make sure you tie wrap the chain tight so it doesn't jump on you. It should be pretty simple to swap the tensioners without removing the chains and guides as long as you keep the chain tight. Don't forget the chains always have some force on them from the valve springs and cam being halfway up or down on one of the many lobes. It all looks static when sitting there but as soon as a chain gets loose, it will quickly snap forward and your timing is screwed. Use the same method I used to get the crank bolt out. Don't use the "starter" method! That bolt was hammered on there! I used a breaker bar with a pipe extension AND a pipe wrench on the socket to break it free.
Sheeshe i sure wish they could make these simple like the 3.4l But here i go anyways. Thanks for the video Sir =D
Awesome job! My 2007 Tundra has been rock solid. Original owner with 91,000 miles now. Mechanically, the best truck I have owned in my 46 years of driving. Did have a water pump bearing go out on a short trip but the place I bought my truck got me right in.
How do you only have 91k!? My 07 5.7L V8 had 260k. I just did front of engine stuff, water pump, serpentine belt, tensioners thermostat. Knock on wood I don't get this chain issue.
@@datawrangler81 I always had a second vehicle for work. 80 miles a day would have really added up the Tundra mileage otherwise.
Great detailed video.
Decent video. As a retired Toyota tech, no way I would suggest anyone take on this project and use aftermarket parts. Spend the money , get the factory parts where they count. There are several online sources that sell factory Toyota parts at wholesale to employee pricing.
I agree the labor is intense and it makes sense to use Toyota parts. Since I'm cheap, and probably will replace the truck soon, I wasn't to keen on spending $2.5k on OEM Toyota parts. Aisin makes many of the parts I removed from the engine. I think the water pump I installed from Aisin actually had a Toyota logo on it that was scratched out. The Mellings parts I installed looked virtually identical and the quality seemed good enough.... The timing set from Mellings was $325 I think.
You are a national treasure!
187k and still all good.
Great video Thankyou!!!
Good Job
I've got that harmonic balancer bolt off with a makita 1/2" mid torque impact wrench. No problem. 2 seconds maybe.
Yeah, my impact is 20 years old. Time for a new one.
On the min 28:02 the intake cam on the driver side, the timing mark is in the 12o’c position then at 28:31 its shows that is the 10o’c position, which should be the right position. How do you get the cam the to the correct position? Thank you and btw great video!
Did you check cam towers leaks when that happens you will have to time it again
I got a 2011 tundra crew max v8 4x4. Original owner. Right under 130k miles, having the same exact issue. It started around 110k miles. A mechanic told me to change the oil every 3k miles because it causes gunk on those tensioners. I’m still holding off on getting a mechanic to look at it, because it’s extremely expensive in CA. Going to use engine 2 liqui Molly engine flushes to see it it will help or not maybe put a ceratech. Hopefully tensioners are the problems so I stop wondering around in forums for months.
Hi, any update my friend?
the tensioner on the driver side is the issue almost always but might as well do the timing chains
SMOOTH RUNNING !!! GREAT VIDEO / I WONDER HOW MUCH IT CHANGE TOYOTA FOR THIS JOB.
The dealership wanted to charge me 1900.00 just to replace the chain tensioners.
14.5 hours
hey dan, good job. Can you tell me the Toyota part number of the driver and passenger tensioners? thank you
2016 tundra 78k, dealership just replaced left side tensioner under warranty, also needs fuel
Pump replaced, but parts are back ordered for months.
Any update? Ty
Great video. Interested in how mounted that siren speaker. I have the same one and used L brackets in my previous vehicle but havent decided how to put it in the Tundra yet.
I bent up a piece of stainless steel I got from a place down the street that fabricates commercial kitchen benches and hoods. nothing fancy.
Nice video, thanks. You are very skilled. I might have missed it but how many miles on the truck? 5k or 10k oil changes? Thanks
170k miles, i change it as soon as the service light triggers on the dash. It think it's 5k miles?
Always new OEM Toyota filters with the oil. 8 Quarts I think.
The timing belt tensioner. Makes sense
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Even though I know dealerships essentially rob you with their labor and part costs, there are some jobs that I know I cannot do nor trust random "mechanics" that are buddies of the random guy who towed your truck. My belt tensioner was bad, so I was replacing it, but I stripped the allen bolt and then the bolt extractor I just bought broke off after catching the bolt. NOTHING I did could get it out, and I'm away from home, limited tools, and have very limited time. So I had to take my 2010 Tundra to the dealership.
I about publicly cried when they showed me they would have to take the time chain cover off since the tensioner "couldn't be removed." Idk if they are taking advantage of a guy in a desperate situation (I have to take this truck home, 500+ miles away, then do a two-month long excursion for work, where no personal vehicles are allowed). Maybe the tensioner is "fuzed" to the cover, maybe it isn't. But this truck has 214k miles on it, and its well taken care of but with this job, at least I know I will have a new chain cover and new gaskets/o-rings throughout. I know the piston cover gasket has not been replaced, and those can go bad in time, so overall this can be a good thing.
YOU'RE VIDEO HELP ME SEE THAT. All the complications of this job make me feel a little more at ease about all of this. Yes, I still think their prices are robbery, but in the end, I shouldn't have to deal with any of these gaskets for the rest of the life of this truck, which I hope will go for many more 100k miles.
Great video, great explanations, great tips. Thanks for taking the time to make and upload this!
You didnt even say how much the stealership hit you for, im going to guess 4k.
@@dangda-ww7de close, $5.5k. I've convinced myself that the replacement of every gasket and 0-ring on the top, front, and bottom of the engine was worth it, which was why they claimed it was so high with all the labor. But it's complete and I have driven her for 600 miles with zero issue and getting 17 mpg.
@@isaam088 If im going to put 5.5k on it, the truck better run good.
Yeah, I certainly wouldn't let anyone do the job. I have more experience than it appears on video... otherwise I wouldn't have done it. There were plenty of obstacles getting it done.
I did a leak down test for my 5.7 with a trd supercharger and air is coming from the intake valve on cylinder 1, it had been throwing a code and running sluggish. What would be the best way to remove the head?
Carefully! I haven't taken my heads off so I can't help you there. I'm assuming all the timing stuff has to come out so you will need to do all the work I did PLUS removing and repairing the head. I would put back new timing stuff when you reassemble since the tensioners will probably fail in a few more miles.
when you turned it over by hand did you have movement in the new tensioner letting the guide move a little since there was no oil pressure there? freaks me out a little bit.
The tensioner has a ratchet in it so once you pull the pin out, it should shoot out enough to keep the chain tight enough until the oil pressure kicks it.
They are visible whithe teh valve cover offf yes?? i wonder if ya gave them a good soaking with PB blaster
You could probably use an inspection camera on your phone to see the top two tensioners if you have both valve covers off. You could use PB, carb cleaner or starting fluid to melt the varnish off the plungers. I would get some small Tygon tubing (like the fuel line on a weed eater or chainsaw) and tape it to the inspection camera shaft and use it to navigate your way to the tensioners and give them a few blasts of cleaner. I do think it might be enough to melt that varnish off and free up the plunger. The job of replacing the tensioners is very expensive and not easy so I would definitely try to clean them before taking the engine apart. There are also 2 removable plugs on that timing cover that you might be able to remove and access the tensioners easier. Not sure if the accessories and serpentine belt cover those holes or not but it might be worth investigating it.
My 2016 is having the exact same noise, what would be the cost to get it changed in a mechanic shop?
The dealer would be 5k or more with oem Toyota parts. You can use aftermarket parts and a good local mechanic can probably do it for 2k to 3k. It's a big job so find a good mechanic and pay him well so it has no oil leaks or issues.
Hi Dan, I'm watching your video and subscribed your channel. I have 2016 Toyota Tundra that I have experienced noise on and off. Please help me what is the best thing I'm going to do.
I would try and oil cleaner/treatment and a few oil changes to see if it helps clean up the tensioners. You also want to verify you have that exact issue. It could be something else.
@BECZEL Scotty Kilmer recently recommended some oil cleaner by ATS chemical, 505CRO. I noticed a change in my engine sounds, quieter and less "lifter" noise. Try some of that or whatever else you think might clean it up.
My 2016 has 91k and it’s doing this. What are the possible failures of not addressing this issue? Complete engine failure?
This engine is an "interference" engine which means the valves open far into the combustion chamber area, far enough that if they were open and the piston came up to TDC, the piston could hit one of the valves and bend (or break) it. So if you chain breaks, or slips a few teeth so the cams become far out of timing with the crankshaft, you could do some real damage to the engine. If that happened, you would have to remove the cylinder head(s) and have the valves replaced, etc. You might also damage the piston or cylinder itself if the collision is hard enough or a piece breaks of the valve. So, I would get this fixed sooner than later.
According to the Toyota dealership, that job list for 18 hours labor. Congrats on the job.
Amazing video. Very helpful and intuitive. My only problem is, you didn't clean any of that massive amount of varnish off, which seems to be the culprit of the tensioner failure.
All the varnish that's on the engine is pretty standard stuff. IMO, there's no real value in trying to clean off the internals of the engine. Any varnish on the engine is pretty much baked in.
Great video. Would you be willing to do this work on my Tundra?
Sorry, no. I won't do this job again.
@danmccarthy206 I am a big proponent of using OEM parts. I see you used a reputable aftermarket supplier (Melling) for the chains and tensioners. Can you keep us up to date as to how long they hold up? That would definitely help us to know whether or not to spend extra on the factory Toyota stuff.
Big +one on longevity please.
I currently have 208k on the truck and everyting is running fine. No noises, no issues at all. Hopefully I can get another 100k out of it!@@DeanofMachines
Hey Dan! About how long did this take you to complete?
Probably about 8 hours of "real" working time. Most of the time I was trying to figure out how things come apart or what tools i need to get at things.
When there are timing chain issues, is it an interference engine to ruin the heads?
Yes but I talked to the tech and he said the engine throws a code before they break.
So I left mine alone.
What is a link to the kit you purchased with the chains, guides and tensioners?
This is the link to the kit I bought on RockAuto. You can get this at any parts store but RA was the cheapest. www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9658988&cc=1444370&pt=5756&jsn=954
@@danmccarthy206 thank you!!!
@@danmccarthy206 what about the gasket kit for all this? And is everything still going strong?
Was there a gasket/
Reservoir behind the passenger side tensioner?
There is a steel gasket with a screen that controls oil flow. A lot of people miss this part trying to do this project. Its only about 11 bucks and most dealers keep it in stock. BTW, its ONLY behind the bank 1 (drivers side) tensioner.
No, nothing on the passenger side. Only the drivers side has the little steel gasket thingy.
196,264 and still silent.
@Wiscopackers12 199,058 and still silent. All the new parts should last another 200,000. By that time, I'll be dead.
@@wiscopackers12 Now have 200,684 miles on it. Still silent. No cam tower leaks, no leaks at all. I have to say, that Toyota 103 Black sealer was worth every penny. It sets up quick and seals great. Well worth the $20 bucks!
207,945 miles and she's still going strong!
209,800 miles and still silent.
Great video, very detailed, My tundra has 155000, 2010, just started noticing a slight raddle when it is cold only when starting. the noise does go away completely after about 10 seconds. I have had the oil changed every 5000 miles. It sounds like it comes from the drivers side. Any suggestions, Thank you in advance.
I have the same truck with 170k mile and I have always changed the oil every 5k. My guess is you are experiencing the same issue I had with the tensioners. You might want to try an oil flush product from Lucus or AMSOIL or similar. The root cause of my tensioners failing was a heavy varnish on the plunger. I believe if you can dissolve that buildup on the plunger, it will operate properly and the problem will go away. The question is, how many times do you have to run one of those products through your engine to get it to dissolve the varnish (if it actually will). I ran some Seafoam through my oil once for about 300 miles then changed the oil. It didn't do anything but if you run cleaner through it a few hundred miles before each oil change, who knows, it might work. Otherwise, you will have to take it apart and have the two main tensioners changed (at a minimum) to solve the problem.
@@danmccarthy206 how do I use the oil flush product, any advice will help, thank again for your time.
@@franko7357 You just pour it into the engine (oil fill cap) and run it as indicated by the instructions on the bottle. Each product is different so check the bottle to see what they recommend. After the recommended time/mileage, you need to change the oil.
@@danmccarthy206 thank for your help.
Did you use all oem parts?
No, I used Mellings parts. They are probably all made by the same vendor for Toyota... which is probably Mellings or one of the other timing products vendors. The OEM Toyota parts were crazy expensive. That said, I would use OEM Toyota parts if I were to do the job again because the labor is so intensive. You don't want to do that job twice!
@@danmccarthy206 Heck yeah there expensive, thanks man.
Do you have a link for all the parts?
When you get the alternator out.
Replace the $20.00 Brushes then reinstall.
Well, I hope I don't get this issue, but if I do, you taught me that I'll find someone to pay to do it.
That would be the smart option.
Maybe I didn't hear but how many miles on your motor?
The noise started around 140k i think? I have 208k on it now. Did the work when it had 170k. All good.
What brand of oil did you use?
Valvoline full synthetic 0-20
@@dansmallengine9610 same here. Do you think that’s what caused yours to need all of the repairs done? Is there any other brand that’s better you think ?
@@nickgrant42 I used the Valvoline because I thought it was a very good oil. I used to run it in a 46' offshore boat with blown 572's and I never had any issues. I suspect that marketing mostly dictates what oil is 'popular'. They all seem to have the required certifications so how can you really tell what's best? I think changing it often is more important than which brand you use.... as long as it's a decent brand. Is Lucas oil really so much better than others? Royal Purple? who knows. I do use OEM Mercedes oil in my GLS 450 bi turbo so if I ever have any internal issues, Mercedes can't blame the oil!
@@dansmallengine9610 that makes sense. I change the oil every 5k. The engine has 87k and sounds quiet.
How many miles were on your tundra?
@172xxx miles i think this job is not worth it if you are gonna pay for it 3-5k? I would just buy a new short block
where are you getting a new short block from for that price lol
110k and its constant. so sad. 6k at toyota to repair.
Yeah, they are not cheap... but at least you have a warranty on that work right?
Timing link. ruclips.net/video/oaDWBwmtVEE/видео.html
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