Toilet Flange Repair
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- Опубликовано: 17 ноя 2021
- In this toilet flange repair video, I'm learning some more new tricks from my plumbing colleges. In my service area of Brooklyn, New York 90% of the toilets I pull are connected to a lead toilet bend.
A brass toilet flange is soldered in place and on occasion they'll fail a begin to separate. No problem, being an old-timer I get out the old soldering toolbox and proceed to solder on a new brass toilet flange.
Well, I recently discovered two products from the Oatey company a plumbing specialty supplier that could make me retire my soldering box forever! They feature two P.V.C toilet flanges designed to fit into cast iron pipes. But guess what? They also fit pretty well into 3" & 4" lead pipes.
Toilet flange repair in lead toilet bends is about to change forever! In this toilet flange repair, I show you how to use two of these new toilet flange repair products which quite possibly will allow me to eliminate soldering brass floor flanges forever!
Enjoy & Happy Plumbing!
Bob
Oatey 43651 PVC Twist-N-Set Closet Flange, 4" x 4" x 4", White
amzn.to/3nfvpjQ
Oatey GIDDS-173390 43539 Replacement Flange Forcast Iron, 4-Inch, PVC
amzn.to/3Di7uppHappy Plumbing!
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Happy Plumbing
Bob
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Хобби
You’re the best Bob!
Great video as always Bob!!
Great video. Greetings from Brooklyn Hts. We have a rocking toilet that needs to be re-set. Two videos by you have clarified exactly what we need to get done.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for stopping by the channel! Bob
greatest respect for plumbing in NYC,nice video,thanks for showing the lead
You're welcome!
Great explanation and teaching.
Thanks. Your videos are always so thorough and cover real world scenarios.
Nice to hear my friend! A welcome change from the "Trolls" who complain I droon on and don't get to the point soon enough. Bob.
Thanks again for the videos!
🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃🎯🏌🏻♀️👍🏻
Bob, thanks for your video!!
Thank you!
Excellent video! I’ve always wondered if there was an alternative to soldering a brass closet flange when you have a lead bend. In my this is revolutionary. Wow! Sometimes I come across these lead bends with that cheap, awful red or blue color coated steel closet flanges. They oxide very easily. Now I have a better option. Thank you!
Thanks for the info about try the twist flange on my lead bend toilet flange.
I still do it the hard way because it’s the best way. Good video
great video i have to do this type intervention on lead pipe thank you bob
Hey Bob, Kool video and thanx for the tips.
You're very welcome!
Glad I found this!! Thank you very much
Thank you for checking it out!
I'll tell you what I think.
I think you just made my current lead pipe dilemma become not so much of a dilemma.
And for that I thank you.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
I live on SI. Do you do house calls.
I got issues with this.
Thank you for what you do.
I appreciate that, Bob.
This video saved my life!
Glad to help!
I am a do it yourselfer, I have had good luck using the Set-Rite Kits on lead.
Great video !!
Thanks for the visit
Heading to pick one up to merge with my lead, thanks.
I wish I had seen this last week!
Great video. Explanation was great. Just like trade school
I appreciate that!
I installed an Oatey 43539 today in a lead bend and it worked great! Thank you for the help.
Thank you for the visit! Bob.
Good one Bob I use them they work but the old way is much better & that’s true plumbing
Amen!
Thank you
Thank you for stopping by. Bob
Happy Thanksgiving Bob.
🦃🦃🦃❤🍗🥧☕
Same to you Wendy 🦃
@@BobsPlumbingVideos thanks Bob
Thanks for this video Bob! I found the product on Amaz, but wanted to let you know your 2nd flange product, 43539 is not an active Amazon link for me. Im a DIYer, still contemplating whether to try the solder method or one of these, I will need to see condition of the lead once I have things cleaned up.
Thanks for the info!
In the 1960s and 1970s there were ABS pressure fittings, the smallest they came in was ½, yardley was one of the manufacturers. Yardley also made SCH 40 PVC and ABS DWV. Yardley PVC DWV was not used much but the Yardley ABS DWV was everywhere back then, Genova was the most common PVC DWV manufacturer in the 1960s.
Hi Bob, all ur videos r amazing! What r better; cast iron or pvc toilet flanges? Thank you
I prefer cast iron. but you have to be able to adapt to the job at hand. If you can secure the P.V.C. flange to the subfloor, I don't see any issues.
Great video Bob. This is exactly what I was looking for. If the lead from the pipe protrudes above the floor and wrapped over the old flange, do you cut it off so it is flush with the finish floor? Thank you!
I do, if it's in decent shape I'll cut it flush and I use mainly the version with the three allen key tensioners.
Yeah I just tried one of these press-twisty versions and it was a total fail. The cast iron was 2-7/8 inner diameter unfortunately. I even cleaned it back to bare metal on the inside and soaped up the rubber gasket, and it still wouldn't slip in without beating it in with a hammer and board.
Modern plumbers take things easy too. I asked one of them to extend my lead pipe. He came with a tapered extension and instead of soldering it, it glued it with silicon! I was quite disappointed to realize that such an easy approach came with a nice premium! I was expecting some soldering between the extension and the original pipe. This is why I asked for a plumber otherwise I would've done it myself. All was very accessible, not flooring around.
The new breed does not have the knowledge we old timers were taught back in the prehistoric days.😅
@BobsPlumbingVideos - Thanks so much for this video! I'm replacing a toilet and ran into this exact scenario with needing to install a new flange onto an old lead drain pipe. I saw a video about the second type of Oatey flange (with the three allen bolts to secure it), but wasn't sure if it would work on lead pipe. It seems to be intended for cast iron, so I wasn't sure if lead would be too flexible to get a good seal when you tighten the bolts. From the video it looks like that shouldn't be a problem, but I was wondering if you've run into any issues with that since you started using these.
The key is to secure the flange to the floor. You can run the Allen keys up snugly (don't go bat shit crazy with them), then secure the flange to the subfloor. You'll be good to go, use a waters base silicone caulk around the bowl (Phenoseal or The Big Stretch) which will keep the bowl still once it sets.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thank you, sir. I really appreciate it. This is going to save me a bunch of time and effort.
Bob I need to know how to install a kitchen sink basket. It always leaks in about a month.
Check out this video, it may help...ruclips.net/video/1I6iNM3ptlQ/видео.html
Thanks Bob. Perfect timing as I’m replacing a flange now. Cast iron pipe. When the pipes were originally installed in 1969, the pipe is not straight, so I cannot use one of the in-the-pipe flanges (the flange will not sit even in the floor). I found a flange that has a rubber seal that tightens to the outside of the pipe. What are your thoughts on that style? Will it work or not? Thank you and thanks for the content!!
There is no one answer for all situations, I say "whatever works" for a particular job. If if gets the job done and it holds water, go for it!
Thanks for the video. Just wondering whether lead pipe is strong enough to form water tight seal. Isn’t lead too soft for twist&seal?
True statements, but in the service and repair world if you can SECURELY fasten the floor flange to the sub-floor it'll be fine. If there was a stoppage downstream of the bowl itself, in theory you might have an issue. (rare instance). It there is a stoppage in the bowl, not an issue. FYI most of the time I use the flange with the three allen nuts to tighten things up.
On that lead bend you showed in the beginning is that side inlet with the male adapter a vent or is it used for another waste to drain into it ?
Back in those days it was generally used as a drain for the basin and bathtub. Thanks for stopping by, much appreciated!
Great video! I am helping my daughter with her first house. The lead bend is only about 2 3/4 inches inner diameter. Is there a product for a lead pipe this size? Thanks so much!
Not that I know of, a 3" O.D. lead bend is the smallest I've ever seen!
Thanks for the video. One question though. You say the lip of the twist and lock flange should sit on top of the tile. That lip is 1/2” thick. Every where I read is that the flange should be 1/4” above the floor. I’m not sure what to do.
It'll be fine, just make sure it sits flush & Level to the floor. Standard wax gasket and you'll be good to go.
After looking at your analytical intense stare on this new product I decided to call you Hawkeyes Nothing Gets By You so if you give your approval of it it's a safe bet that it's okay. Nothing surpasses your skill of analysis I now call you the hawk. Thankyou for your video mr Hawk eyes. LoL
I would have never even considered using these on a lead bend most of the ones i come across are so old they aren't viable anymore so we replace and if they are viable we re do it but for instance we had one in a slab that we just broke up the concrete and went to the cast iron and brought it all back up with pvc. Seeing this first might have changed that but it seemed rather unviable the building was from 1935 not sure how long the lead bend was in place. Thanks for the content.
Thanks for checking out the video, I would opt to replace first, if the customer can't afford that option this could be a good alternative.
Can you use those type of flanges on a pvc pipe? Or just cast iron?
Great video btw. Thank you for producing it.
Absolutely, but If I have P.V.C. waste piping I'm probably going to use primer and glue with the appropriate flange.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos okay that’s good for me to know.
Thank you
BOB..REALLY IMPRESSED WITH YOUR KNOW HOW...
MY CAST IRON PIPE HAS A LEAD LIP THAT SLIGHTLY DROOPS OVER THE EDGE
NOT SURE WHAT THE FIX IS..CAN U SHED SOME LIGHT FOR ME ?... MANY THANKS
TOM
I used the one with the three bolts yesterday 1/19/2023 on an old 4" lead bend, secured it with stainless steel screws and anchors into the tile floor. Tightened the three bolts (FIRST) set the the bowl and was off to races leak free.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos does the rounded lip lay flat on the sub floor?
Those plastic flanges reduce the drain diameter but the brass flange keeps the drain at 4", so you'd expect a better flush with the brass install. Also, the second plastic flange has the inner bolt protrusions that further interferes with the flush. I can see why old school may be preferable?
However, I'm glad for the plastic flanges should the lead pipe be damaged and not able to attach to a brass flange.
I was thinking the same thing. That second flange looks like it has a lot of protrusions for "stuff" to hang up on.
In regards to the first one being smaller than 4 inch. Isn't the output from the toilet 3 inch, and also the stack that the 4 inch stub goes into?
@@johnnymusic685 In my situation: the lead bend is 4", it's the pipe sticking up from the floor. Since it was in good condition, I fastened it to the brass flange achieving an unobstructed 4" diameter.
I installed a 'Kohler Elmbrook' toilet. It has a 2 1/8" output, all other brands also have this small output so that the horn can fit into the 4" pipe; (or some pipes are 3").
The first plastic flange should take the toilet horn no problem; and its real easy to install. The second one also would work, but I don't like those protrusions. For low flow toilets I want a CLEAR passageway so not keen on the second plastic one.
My Elmbrook is working nicely. It's a low flow 1.28 gpf. If you let go of the handle, it's a partial flush; but If you hold down the handle you get the full 1.28 gpf.
@@mike7gerald I was thinking that too, the drain opening diameter seems too small, with the protruding screws that look like they can catch anything and cause a clog.
@@Progrocker70 The toilet trap-way has a 2 1/8" opening, so even that plastic flange with the protruding screws will handle it. Clogs will be rare provided dental floss and other stuff isn't flushed; only toilet paper and poop should ever go down.
I'd rather snake a drain than tear out and rebuild a floor because of a 20-year leak. Yes, I do this for a living.
ive had the 3 allen key flange on my basement toilet now for the last 3yrs. still doing fine. all thats holding it are the 3 stainless bolts and the weight.. it hasn't had a single issue.
I removed the old lead to use one of these...the pipe has a bend and they will not go inside the pipe far enough.
I even ground down the uneven pipe to fit flush to the bathroom tile floor. Not only will it not go in more than halfway, it winds up being crooked, 2 inches from the tiles.
Did you measure from the floor to the bottom of the bend and compare it to the length of the flange before attempting this ?
Hello Bob, I have a question for you. If I have a lead sleeve into a cast iron pipe, is it ok for me to use either of these flanges? If so is there no need for a wax ring?
If the lead is in sound shape, you can you either, i prefer the one with the allen screws. You still must use a wax seal with either.
Thank you SO much for responding!! 😊
you ever seen a lead pipe that has been expanded before the floor? it's like 1-2" wider between the floor and the main drain.
Not often, but yes.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos what do you do with that?
Does the old flange have to be cut off, thanks cliff K
I wouldn't, but if it's a thin brass flange you can try to lay it right over. I wouldn't want to be more than 1/4" / 3/8" above the finished floor.
👍
do you have to make sure the inside of the lead pipe/drain is clean?
I use a putty knife to remove any build up, then use a Scotch-Brite pad to smooth off the the interior of the lead.
Ive searched everywhere and can’t find the type of screws that are needed to to screw the twist flange. The holes are huge! What size screws do I need because standard wood screws just goes right through
What type of material are you securing to? Cement, Wood, Concrete? You can use these for concrete with a stainless steel washer to fit the screw and not pass thru the hole in the flange. amzn.to/3iwQ1V4. Or if going into wood use a stainless steel #12. #10 wood screw with stainless steel washers.
Hello Bob. I have an old cast iron flange, can I put this plastic flange on the top of old cast iron flange without removing it? Thanks.
I the cast iron flange is flush with the floor, I would give it a shot. If it's above the floor, it'll end up being to high.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos . So it is easier for me now, my flange is flush with the floor. Thanks a lot.
The one with the allen heads seems like toilet paper and crud will catch on it. It also looks like it makes she sh!tter pipe kinda small? Or is it okay?
Check the inside opening of the horn of the actual toilet. About 2 3/8" on most, It'll be fine.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos okay 👌
Thank you for answering that question because I’ve always wondered about that. Sometimes my kid will have a pretty large poop and for some reason I envision it getting caught on some of those areas where the stainless Allen screws are located. 😃
Pro-Press is not better, just faster.
Hi Bob,
I have a lead bend that protrudes through the floor on a bit of an angle, by design it appears. the flange has been removed . I plan to cut the protruding lead to the near to the surface of my subfloor such that the new flange will end up flush with the surface of the plank flooring I plan to install. I plan to use one of the PVC flanges mentioned in the video but I'm concerned I may end up with a flange that is not totally flat to the floor surface due to the slight angle. Have you ever seen such a condition? Thanks so much for the info.
Jim Murphy
When I solder brass flanges onto the lead I can match it to the contour of the floor. With the ones in the video you're going to be limited, to the slope of the floor. You'll most likely be high in one end, but if it's not at an extreme angle, using extra thick wax gasket should make up the difference.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Will do, thanks very much..
What if you were to use a grinder and grind down the high sides?
👍👍
Can it be used on 3” copper pipe?
No, 4" cast iron, P.V.C. or Lead.
👍💪
Great video!!!, had to pause and make this comment once you mentioned the bowl isn’t gonna move unless you have gorillas banging around on it 😂
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I would not use one of the plastic screw in as it has WAY too much of a toilet paper ledge to hang up on . CLOG City.
You know that a nice demo but you should show it actually on the floor and show how to tighten up then
Bob why don't you make a video showing the guys how to remove the old flange from the lead Bend😊 keep the windows open when you're using a torch on the lead when removing the b r a s s toilet flange did a lot of those they made Plumbing easier today as far as the ProPress how long is that o-ring going to last I think a solder joint will last a lot longer what's your opinion😊 funny before 1986 we did a lot of domestic water what's 50/50 now everything Soldier free what did houses in the early nineteen 70s still going no one ever got sick the safety standards are better today but New York City water I'm in Staten Island Brooklyn other boroughs there are lead joints on City water mains
If I did that and someone set their home on fire, guess who's gonna get blamed! LOL! How are you finding business? After those pro press "O" rings fail, there's going to be plenty of business, unfortunately I won't be around.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Neither will I 🤣 😂 🤣 thats life taking my lipitor every night Try stay healthy been on it for 25 years.
@BobsPlumbingVideos you right no fire 🔥 somethings leave out smart . I had back operation lumbar laminectomy can not do much anymore. The brain said yes, and the body said no .🤣
Bob you forgot to mention that most toilets today a 12-inch rough you should tell the people from the back finish wall to the center of the journey Bolt coming through the toilet floor flange to the back wall to be 12 in when I work with my father God Rest his soul the old toilets 10 inches even 14 in put today everything is a 12-inch Ruffin just thought I'd throw this in here Happy Thanksgiving
Good point! Happy Thanksgiving 🦃
@@BobsPlumbingVideos with all this new Plumbing my father must be rolling around in the grave by the way my father was in WWII my whole family of veterans my dad got a bronze star purple heart he was a combat medic Americal Division in the Pacific so when Vietnam came around he said to me and my brother what are you guys waiting for but it was a different War WWII we had to fight
Always been a bit scared using this on lead. Cause it’s so malleable…
PVC toilet flange yes. Pro press, shark bite hell no. If you can not sweat you are not plumbing.
People getting mad that a better product came out that allows homeowners to do plumbing easily and not have to pay plumbers an absurd amount of money to sweat some fittings. I can sweat but I always use shark bites. Never had an issue and never wasted money on an overpriced plumber.
I just picked up the same Oakley screw in twist and guess what the rubber gasket was only half the thickness as yours which means half the thread thickness and probably half the effectiveness. Fuck’n companies always looking to save a buck and at the same time charge more bucks!
I'd take the dam thing back!!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos I did, and used an internal flange instead.
I don't care for those DIY flanges because they restrict the drain opening. Anyone who drops a huge deuce in the toilet good luck getting that log to flush down the pipe.
The integral traps in most toilets is less than 3" in diameter. I haven't experienced any issues so far.