You are most welcome ⚘ handmade soap makes great gifts, just keepnin mind it needs 6 weeks to cure so they will be safe to use after 48 hours but won't be at their best by Christmas. If you make them now they will only foam well and ask longer when used from February 2022. Happy soapmaking and be blessed.
Hi there. The only problems with other mixing methods are possible splatters and air bubbles in your batter. If you can use a mixer jar safely (splatterwise) you can give it a try, air bubbles are only cosmetical of nature.
@@saponify6677 I also tried(no splatters or bubbles) that it gives good hardened soap. Now I have a doubt about the saponification process! The saponification process is depend on the mixing rate or time period ? If it depends upon the mixing rate not time then using of Mixer jar is great then blender right..?
@@booshcockappu As long as you have a good recipe, meaning the lye:water:oil ratio is right you only need to mix your batter to emulsification where the oil and lye mixture doesn't separate anymore. If you mix to trace your soap wil saponify. If your soap is too soft it might just need a few days longer to set, some recipes set faster than others.
Hi Ansa, I’m very interested in your comment about “the lower the ins number, the longer it takes to trace”. My formula is 75% rice bran oil and 25% tallow and I LOVE that combo but oh boy does it emulsify quickly ! I have to really be on the ball and organised to split a batch to put say clay in one portion or whatever. I do put 2% Citric acid in because I read that slows emulsification/trace a bit and I think it does but the INS bit intrigues me because a slightly slower moving batter would be even better for me. I see the ins for rbo is 87 and tallow 147. Would love your thoughts and input 😊
Hi Jo. There are many factors that will influence trace. (INS Is only one of them, with 75% RBO I doubt if the bit of Tallow would speed things up that much) The speed of trace is basically everything that influence the speed at which the chemical reation happens. The cooler you work the slower the trace (Tallow will limit you a bit, if you soap at less than 40⁰C, you might run into stearic acid spots) More water will also slow your trace 33% or 1:2 is a safe ratio for cold process soap. Stick blending also speed things up a LOT, try to only blend to emulsification, as soon as your water and oil don't split anymore you are good to go, add your colours, mix by hand and only zirts with the stick blender just before pour. Fragrance is another wild card, some (especially floral notes) can speed up trace to a point of seizing a batch in seconds, add them last and stirr in by hand. Citric acid will only "neutralize" a bit of lye, effectively increasing your superfat, it also creates a chelating agent that will bind to minerals in your washing water, meaning your soap will work better in hardwater and make less soap scum than without the citric acid. I hope that will help you a bit.
Thanks for the speedy reply , I’m just watching this video for the second time and so many of your points are spot on , including soaping a bit warmer because of the tallow , I really need to find my sweet spot for this recipe. I’ll just use the whisk for the whole process from now on, no stick blender, even whisking emulsifies fast😂 Thanks for your very helpful thoughts and hints, I really appreciate it . This was a great video, the soap is beautiful and that gold mica on top…wow! Have a lovely rest of the day Ansa. Thanks again
Hi Ilda, it seems like it didn't came completely to trace before pour. Best is to pour it back into the bowl and stir it some more. Hand blending takes much longer than stick blending, especially if your mixture is to the cooler side.
Thank you Lizelle. I prefer plain natural as well. I just realized in the middle of the making that nearly all my soap in every video looks kinda the same. So for youtube variety sake I'll plan the next with something different.
Thank you! I've learnt so much from this tutorial!
I am glad that you found some helpfull information. Happy soapmaking
Thank you so much
New followers ❤️😘
Welcome to the channel, awesome to have you.
Blessings
Ansa🌿
Thanks for showing this, with our Eskom problem never know when we might need to do this by hand ✋✋✋
You are most welcome, 🌸
Thank you so much .. this is an awesome recipe and just what I was looking for, Im going to make these for everyone in the family as Christmas gifts 🎁
You are most welcome ⚘ handmade soap makes great gifts, just keepnin mind it needs 6 weeks to cure so they will be safe to use after 48 hours but won't be at their best by Christmas. If you make them now they will only foam well and ask longer when used from February 2022. Happy soapmaking and be blessed.
Can we use mixer jar? Have u ever tried..?
Hi there. The only problems with other mixing methods are possible splatters and air bubbles in your batter. If you can use a mixer jar safely (splatterwise) you can give it a try, air bubbles are only cosmetical of nature.
@@saponify6677 I also tried(no splatters or bubbles) that it gives good hardened soap. Now I have a doubt about the saponification process! The saponification process is depend on the mixing rate or time period ?
If it depends upon the mixing rate not time then using of Mixer jar is great then blender right..?
@@booshcockappu As long as you have a good recipe, meaning the lye:water:oil ratio is right you only need to mix your batter to emulsification where the oil and lye mixture doesn't separate anymore. If you mix to trace your soap wil saponify.
If your soap is too soft it might just need a few days longer to set, some recipes set faster than others.
Love the idea for this project, a perfect demo for emulsion & trace 😊
Thank you Simona. It's times like these that one have a new appreciation for stick blenders and modern technology.
Hi Ansa, I’m very interested in your comment about “the lower the ins number, the longer it takes to trace”.
My formula is 75% rice bran oil and 25% tallow and I LOVE that combo but oh boy does it emulsify quickly ! I have to really be on the ball and organised to split a batch to put say clay in one portion or whatever. I do put 2% Citric acid in because I read that slows emulsification/trace a bit and I think it does but the INS bit intrigues me because a slightly slower moving batter would be even better for me. I see the ins for rbo is 87 and tallow 147.
Would love your thoughts and input 😊
Hi Jo. There are many factors that will influence trace. (INS Is only one of them, with 75% RBO I doubt if the bit of Tallow would speed things up that much) The speed of trace is basically everything that influence the speed at which the chemical reation happens.
The cooler you work the slower the trace (Tallow will limit you a bit, if you soap at less than 40⁰C, you might run into stearic acid spots)
More water will also slow your trace 33% or 1:2 is a safe ratio for cold process soap.
Stick blending also speed things up a LOT, try to only blend to emulsification, as soon as your water and oil don't split anymore you are good to go, add your colours, mix by hand and only zirts with the stick blender just before pour.
Fragrance is another wild card, some (especially floral notes) can speed up trace to a point of seizing a batch in seconds, add them last and stirr in by hand.
Citric acid will only "neutralize" a bit of lye, effectively increasing your superfat, it also creates a chelating agent that will bind to minerals in your washing water, meaning your soap will work better in hardwater and make less soap scum than without the citric acid.
I hope that will help you a bit.
Thanks for the speedy reply , I’m just watching this video for the second time and so many of your points are spot on , including soaping a bit warmer because of the tallow , I really need to find my sweet spot for this recipe. I’ll just use the whisk for the whole process from now on, no stick blender, even whisking emulsifies fast😂
Thanks for your very helpful thoughts and hints, I really appreciate it . This was a great video, the soap is beautiful and that gold mica on top…wow!
Have a lovely rest of the day Ansa. Thanks again
Oil seems to be pooling at the bottom of my soap not under hardened soap but when I pour it in a mold. Please what do I do
Hi Ilda, it seems like it didn't came completely to trace before pour. Best is to pour it back into the bowl and stir it some more. Hand blending takes much longer than stick blending, especially if your mixture is to the cooler side.
I actually like the speckels. I'm bad with colorants, prefer natural products to color my soap.
Thank you Lizelle. I prefer plain natural as well. I just realized in the middle of the making that nearly all my soap in every video looks kinda the same. So for youtube variety sake I'll plan the next with something different.