Spindexer Indexer 5
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- Опубликовано: 10 ноя 2013
- In this final episode of the Spindexer Indexer we make the brass index pin and assemble the unit. We demonstrate a simple to make collet fixture to hold the part for modification. We demonstrate the operation with simple index plates and our original viewer suggested challenge plate with 127 index positions. Be sure to comment and let me know how you liked the build along project. Feel free to suggest other future projects.
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Had to watch this series just for the comfortable enjoyment. Artistry meets engineering....are rare breed. Thanks Tom
Ok Tom, I finally made it through the Spindexer series. Very cool, very nice machine work, and I love the principle behind the tool. One of these are now on my wishlist to buy. I have a whole set of 5C collets that need to be put to use, and I dont have an indexer in my inventory. I really enjoyed watching you build this from start to end, and seeing the last few minutes made perfect sense regarding the indexing lining up on the same radius. Thanks for taking the time to build this project and sharing with everyone!
Catch ya on the next series!
Adam
Hey Adam,
Thanks for the comment. I guess I know what I'm getting you for Christmas.......
Talk to you soon.
Tom
Lol.... No need in getting me anything. I still havnt sent you anything for the gloves and speedy handle!!
Got a box with a couple items in mind, but just havnt set anything in it yet. Waiting for that perfect "that's it!!!" thing!
127 tooth gears are pretty often wanted by those who want to convert their imperial lathe screw to cut metric threads with no problems. 12,7 mm is 1/2".... Very nice series to wake myself up with, and get inspired on an early, early saturday morning! Thanks for sharing!
after a long period of procrastination I've finally begun to learn a bit about moving metal.
almost 60 yrs working wood I'm loving having learning tools like your channel so readily to hand.
many thanks for the sharing of your knowledge and experience.
Hi Michael,
Thanks for the nice comment. Metal can be just as satisfying as working with wood. You already know what good work looks like so you have a leg up by a mile.
Cheers,
Tom
What a great design and instruction. I can think of so many uses for that. Much thanks Ox and look forward to more.
Richard.
Hi Richard,
Thanks for the comment and compliment.
Regards,
Tom
Awesome series. Very thorough. Thanks for the contribution.
Hi William,
Thanks for the comment and participation.
Cheers,
Tom
This is one of the most valuable projects I have found on youtube. I have been looking for a dividing head and new they are expensive, used they are out of my range also. I have ordered the spindexer and began already making plates from some 1/4" aluminum that I have. Thanks for a great useful project, keep them coming. Super job, Tom
Thankyou Tom for taking the time to reply so quickly,
I see what you mean by the spreading out of any errors, I never thought about it that way, I'm glad you helped me understand it, I'm thinking about fabricating some indexing plates for my 5C spin indexer, thanks again.
I'm really enjoying your videos, thanks for putting them out there for us.
Another great video. 127 divisions - WOW !
Tom, really good project and a good example of making something cheap into something good and reliable. Many thanks, Gordon.AUS
Hi Gordon,
You hit the nail on the head. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom,
I've enjoyed all of your videos, but this one really cemented it for me. That whole bit with the screw reminds me of so many similar ops I've had to do myself. I've basically done only prototype machine work for 25 years, and I was laughing and telling you what was going to happen before it happened...lol. I ALWAYS learn a little something from every one of your videos, and it feels good to know that I solve the same problems in much the same way as a total pro. Thanks!
I have one comment to make (OK.. maybe three): I like your honesty in this, much as I admire Adam's - honesty is a fundamentally good thing; allied to that are skill and experience. You cannot beat that triplet! Well done, and thank you for showing your prowess. Highly entertaining, and very worthwhile watching.
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the awesome comment and support.
All the best,
Tom
I really enjoyed your videos on the indexer and learned a lot. I am just starting to do milling so your videos are very helpful to me. I am a permanent subscriber of yours and am looking forward to more of your videos. THANKS!!!!!!
Hi Clifford,
Welcome to the show. Thanks for the nice comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Liked the project, Tom, especially the simple aspect of the whole thing using common raw materials and clean way you put it all together. Thanks for showing us the close up shots too. Thank you for taking the time!
Reid
Hi Reid,
Thanks for the comment.
Best,
Tom
Yup, made it through several times. Just got mine from Amazon. Going to try to just stay with 360 degrees. You are great, thanks for the continuing education.//ji
this was grate too see tom very good job now I know it has 36 holes on front and 10 on other side of front so that's 360 so with more on the back ,so I wonder if a guy made a block to fit under the bottom now you can have a bigger disk or put the spindexer back plate off to the side or front with out a block now one need to spend tons of money on a dividing head thanks tom you just saved me $450.00 bucks on buying a dividing head now I can cut gears with this idea .
Great project Tom!
Good project Tom enjoyed all the tricks and tips.
Hi John,
Thanks for watching and commenting!
All the best,
Tom
Thanks Tom for the wonderful set of videos for this project. I'm looking forward to making my own. I already have the indexer by Phase-II. I couldn't wrap my head around the transfer from one ring of holes to another until you finally showed it in the last few minutes of the last video. It would have been great to see it in use in the first video, but that would have required another project to build a time machine.
Hi Philip,
Good the hear from you. I really had some explaining to do because I released the drawings a bit incomplete to get the project moving. You were not the only one that had a hard time. I should have waited until the drawings were complete. Learned my lesson.
All the best,
Tom
Hiya Tom,
Your spindex inspired me to go out and modify mine, we all cant have a fancy Deckel grinder like yours :)
Spindex end mill sharpening
Converting my spindexer making it a much more versatile tool. Thanks for the tip on small parts holding with home made collet. Odd small parts holding can be a problematic. Would like to meet you in person some day. Have been to Adam's shop. Maybe make it to Stan's one day. I have a home shop in Freeport, Florida population 2,500, only show in town. Best regards, Philip
Cool project.
I like what you did .
Enjoyed the whole series on this project..
Merry Xmas and Season Greetings ..
Regards ..Frank from Oz...
Hi Frank,
Thanks for the comment. Happy holidays to you also.
Best,
Tom
Great series Tom,
I Hope to find some time to build one of these. (I know there some time somewhere but I must have misplaced it!) Haha.
A lot of thanks for your time though,
Mark
Nice serie's, thank you!
+Rob Gerrits Hi Rob,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
? please can you explain
. ?how to use it practically I mean how to mount it
Hi Ali,
This would be clamped in the milling machine vise or clamped with strap clamps to the mill table. A part would be clamped in the collet and then indexed for what ever divisions you needed. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
The misleading thing for me is that this indexer has the holes on plates on both sides so which plate should be used when mounted Thanks Mr Tom for the answer
fantastic series, but being stuck with a mini mill I have started making mine a scaled down version wont look as good but it'll work I've learned a lot from you so far, thanks for sharing your knowledge :)
Hi Doug,
Thanks for the comment and support.
Best,
Tom
Great series. Learned a lot. U R always interesting.
I don't have a mill. (yet) Maybe a quick follow up discussion on how to make the plates without X_Y plotting.
wow, really useful project, your a funny guy, love how you are always second guessing yourself and changing it up.... I'm just like that so I can really identify with the way you work.
Hi Robert,
Thanks for the comment. Sometimes just hearing it come out of my mouth gives me a better idea. The power of suggestion I guess.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom, a neat and tidy end product not to mention useful. Obviously you could not hear me shouting from across the pond, and a continent, that you could have put a small ball between the two grub screws to lengthen them.
When you cut the prospective pin short, you could have taken the opportunity to drill and insert a steel pin for a more durable version.
chris
Hi Chris,
All good suggestions. Unfortunately the balls I have are too large to fit. For the screw I would have preferred to make it from scratch to simplify the workholding aspect. I toyed with a full mechanical retracting pin but decided simple was best (for me) for the first build along.
All the best,
Tom
Well done
It would be fun to see what kind of nifty variations people come up with. So a suggestion for a future follow-up video could be a discussion around what people send in.
Anyway, a great series and I like the alternative solutions angle.
Martin
Hi Martin,
That was what I was hoping for this project. To leave enough leeway for folks to find their own path through the project but still leave it detailed enough that it would be complete and functional if you just followed along. Thanks for the comment.
Best,
Tom
That was worth watching all the way through. I'd wondered about doing something with mine that would make it more useful. I've thought using something similar to scribe witness marks on round stock like lathe collars, this may help with that. Thanks for the great tips, too.
Hi Stxrynn,
Thanks for the comment. Glad you liked the show.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom,
Great project! Thanks. If you think about it can you talk some more about the do and don'ts of power taping on the the lathe or on the mill when you are doing it next time. I'd like to know more.
Thanks again. Chuck.
Hi Chuck,
Good point. I'll try to remember to add some detail the next few times I have to do power tap on the lathe and mill.
Best,
Tom
Tom
great work..very technically austute..
Wj
Hi Will,
Thanks for the comment and compliment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom cool project seems useful and a low buck alternative to the super spacer. When I make mine I may try to laser cut the spacer disk and see how accurate it is.
I would suggest as a project a 5C collet block. You could use the spindexer for that plus machining the shoulder taper accurately and making the threaded collar would be good material IMO.
Hi Bill,
Take a look at John Stevenson's collet block interpretation. This is what I would build if making a collet block project. He uses an ER-32 Collet instead of a 5C. This allows the block to be much shorter and sit in a machine vise lower.
Best,
Tom
This was very interesting an educating project. Thanks for the time and ideas you shared with us. Just a thought, if you added a second pin indexing arm on the right side, you could set it for the second row of holes, which would allow you to alternate between the two and make one pass around the 127 holes. Robin
Hi Robin,
Its a little bit of a brain tease. If you add a second pin to the second row of holes all you are doing is synchronizing the two rows of holes in lock step. The trick is to make the half index transition that you need to have so your multiple rows adds up to 127 divisions. Hope that makes sense. This is why the block is slotted so you can transfer between the two circles of holes.
Regards,
Tom
oxtoolco
Thanks for the explanation, now I have a better understanding of the Pin sequence.
At the 40 minute mark when your light keeps changing, I was thinking you must have relocated to Florida. We used to call the power company, Florida Flicker and Flash!
At 37:00 - With all that miniature brass and blueing I was expecting you to say "G'day, and welcome to Click Spring."
Hi Bob,
Pretty high praise to be compared to Chris at Clickspring. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
oxtoolco You deserve every bit of it. You're not only a master of machining processes, but bring to the table your artistic flair and design aesthetic. Or is that the better half?
Damn Tom!! I about pissed my pants laughing with the "famous last words" caption. I was thinking the exact same thing the second before that popped up. I cant tell you how many times ive thought that to myself and BAM!! part flies out of the chuck / vice, or cut the part undersize or some BS. I'll learn someday. But if you dont push the limit youll never know how far you can go! Thanks again for the great videos! - Nate
Hi Nathan,
Those are out best learning events. Nothing like a part flying out of the lathe to make you remember to be careful the next time you do that. Thanks for the comment.
Best,
Tom
Great series Tom! I purchased a Spindex with free shipping for about $65 from that huge book seller that is named after that river in South America. Plan to start on this during the upcoming 4 days off.
You asked about other projects. Perhaps that small 4" rotary table that you made early in your career? Or at least a series on turning a worm gear and it's associated worm wheel. I am trying to make an indexing head that will fit my lathe and mill going from The Workshop Series book on dividing heads. It uses a worm gear for advanced dividing that I am not clear on how to make.
Thanks for the great videos. You really have a knack for teaching these skills. And I'm enjoying your book as well.
Hi Brad,
Thanks for the nice comment. Best of luck on your spindexer. I considered adding a worm gear to the spindexer to make it more like a dividing head. Back burner project for when I'm retired.
All the best,
Tom
I think the slot in the arm should be on the bottom. leave the pin fixed. as you seem to have to loosen the bottom one anyway to move it over, it keeps you from having to mess with the top pin. Anyway, very nice indeed.
Hi Mark,
A more clever guy would make a screw adjustable index pin so you can dial in the position of the pin exactly. I was hoping that folks would take the basic idea and make it their own with improvements and embellishments. Thanks for the comment and feedback.
Regards,
Tom
After giving it some thought I found a good use for the spring but it's going to be attached to the indexer and give you the ability to not accidentally skip a hole that is it can work as a counter but you're indexing plate that's permanently affixed to the cast body is the only thing allowing you to make a gear it's the only thing that ensures that your indexing in exactly the right place every time
Great work. Somehow I missed how you located the 127 holes in the pelxi. Where would I find that?
Hi Tom, I'm more than sure that a bunch of people already notice that if you're using more than one radius, the only option is to use the "half step block?"; the side pin won't be accurate. It's itching me!! that's why I have to post it, lol. Awesome job btw!!!!
Hi Jorge,
Watch all the videos. The answer to your question will be revealed.
cheers,
Tom
You could slightly tweak the the hole layout by putting the holes at the intersection of the circles of the disc and a computer generated array of circles matching the distance and radius of the indexing arm. this would correct for the small error inherent in the indexing arm alone.
Tom, was just wondering how that collar is able to tighten down even though it's bolted to the plate? I would have figured it would lock the collar in place with those bolts and it would lose it's tension functionality. However, it seems to work as expected. Am I missing something? Or does it still have enough play in it that it still locks down correctly?
When I did the holes the clamp collar was in the snug position so the tapped holes are "set" with that orientation. The collar only takes up a few thousandths if that. Hope this helps.
Best,
Tom
Nice set of videos on this project. I was wondering how you switched between rows for the 127 hole disc, so had to watch the whole 5 sets. I may try to mill some change gears out of hard plastic for my old Barnes lathe and this could be useful. I would say without a DRO that placing 104 holes using x,y coordinates would be a little tedious and prone to error without taking things really slow. Rather than using the spin indexer (unless I get one and just use the degrees under the principal of close enough), I may use one of the other methods you showed on one of your meatloaf or Roach coaches using the tape method.
Did you think about trying to retrofit it so you could use the same wrench size on the end that holds the indexing arm and the net which tightens the pin so you didn't have to switch between wrenches?
Hi Gopher,
You are right it takes a while to put all those holes in. But its just the kind of job that makes you a better mechanic. You have to be exact and follow a recipe to get the loaf of bread. Another close enough method you could try is to print a full scale electronic drawing and use it as a template. Laser and inkjet printers are real accurate. Yeah I missed a trick on the nut sizes. Dohhh.
Cheers,
Tom
So I'm awfully late to this particular party but I finally realized that the brass arm has that slot and what it's for. I don't think it'd be too hard in Fusion (as it exists now) to clock all but one of the hole patterns to account for the small error a fixed-radius arm would have, but I like your fool-resistant solution here.
Hi Tom, that's neat-thanks for posting this series.
Why the chamfers on the half-step block? Just to look nice?
Hi Andy,
Yes. Sometimes just breaking an edge changes the entire look of a part. I thought it looked clunky and crude. The small chamfers broke the edge and softened the part.
All the best,
Tom
A great series that really helps out the average guy with basic cheap tools. Thank you Did you do anything special to your "insert chuck" to be able to chuck it in your 6 jaw?
+Jeff Iscool Hi Jeff,
Nothing special. Just made sure the mounting face was perpendicular to the shank. The little insert chuck is and adjust through type so I could dial it in as well. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice project Tom. When you power tapped the stud in the lathe, how did you control the tail stock? It was out of camera frame.'
Dave
Hi Dave,
Good question. I leave it loose and just follow the tap with the handwheel. Its pretty easy to tell when you are in neutral so to speak. What I mean is the handle just floats as opposed to having any load in either direction. Hope that makes sense.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice project. Thank you. I just happen to have a cheap Spindexer (0.0004 radial runout, detected by using a selection of collets (which each have their own runout) and averaging the clocked runout). Maybe this would make a good project if I can ever do something about my dead CNC controller (a very old Anilam). (Worst of all worlds: no DRO and no micrometer dials on the handwheels.) I need to find out what newer CNC controller will work with my existing servos and existing glass sensor scales.
I still think that the arc of the pin could be incorporated into the relative positioning of the holes in each ring of multi-ring plates (like the 127). The bolt-circle calculator can certainly place the first hole of any ring at any advance from 0˚ desired. This would allow doing the operations in sequence, rather than doing the operation on all the outer holes, then the middle ring, and finally the singleton (again, using the 127 as an example). Avoiding the extra step of recalibrating the pin and avoiding the skip operations (and the opportunities for error from each) seems like a worthy goal. (It would require a really accurate swing pivot for the arm; right now you can just tighten down the pivot and ignore any looseness.)
Peter W. Meek Hey Peter,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I missed how you split up the tow rows of holes where do you start for the first hole to maintain the hole spacing on the second row?
Hi Tom,
Great timing of this project for me to ask a question. If I were to buy this type of index and a tail stock for it will I be able to mill flats on barrels like on muzzle loaders? Is this type of index sturdy and or accurate enough for that type of work? I see them on ebay for under $100 for both index and tale stock. Just not sure if I can put flats on a long barrel.
I do enjoy all your videos and the home made Collete.
Thank you. George
Hi George,
This type of indexer would work fine for what you want to do. Your major challenge is the length of the barrel. I would suggest putting some kind of support under the barrel for machining its length. Your setup will need to be very parallel to the table so you don't get any taper to the cut. Work out the technique on some plain steel before you try a gun drilled and rifled barrel blank.
Hope that helps. Best,
Tom
Hi Tom,
I was thinking, by using the 1/2 increment indexing pin at the bottom, wouldn't it be possible to use only the one set of increment holes around the perimeter, since both sets of radial holes are the same incremental distance from one hole to another.
By using three individual (1/2 incremental holes) at the zero start point, then the main arm could be readjusted to fit into the same set of radial holes around the perimeter.
wouldn't it be like in computer programming, the set of incremental holes around the perimeter, would be as a subprogram, once it is executed for one loop, the next (1/2 incremental) pin hole would be like another instruction to advance as needed then loop back to the same set of holes around the perimeter.
What are your thoughts on this. Would it work.?
Hi hobbies,
With high numbers of divisions its important to spread any errors out over as many of the divisions as possible. There are schemes to make less holes for an admittedly weird indexing situation. So my thinking is yes you could do that but having discreet holes for as many index positions as possible averages the errors over the entire rotation. Short answer is yes your idea should work.
Cheers,
Tom
I loved the project, thanks for all your hard work.
Also you may want to know that polygons are named with Greek numbers, therefore your logo contains a heptagon (not septagon)
Hi Cut4weld,
I always thought the terms were interchangeable. Septagon is a combined latin and Greek reference and Heptagon is a purely Greek reference. You are quite correct the Greek reference is the more commonly accepted one. But hey that's pedestrian. I would much rather be thought of as unconventional and uncommon. Thanks for the comment and interesting discussion.
All the best,
Tom
something I haven't seen is how to set up helical gears something to do with gearing a dividing head to the table feed.
Tom - In this series it appears you are suffering from autofocus, it gives and it takes away. I believe you can set your camera to auto and then lock it in. Best to keep the camera focused on the work, you aren't moving that much so you don't need autofocus, you just need focus. Spinning shiny metal plays hell with the autofocus, vibration plays hell with the autofocus, you got two things working against you. I believe that newer autofocus works in any light but that probably means they have blocked out a few frequencies 50Hz, 100Hz, 60Hz, and 120Hz, but lights that flicker at other frequencies may be fair game. You have spinning shiny metal that reflects light to one degree or another, and that creates a pulsing light source at various frequencies. And that you be strike three. Stick with manual focus, a baby bit of practice and you'll be good to go.
@ 55min, ya said a 7 sided fgr is a septigon, actually it's a heptagon... Great Vid, thx for the entertainment.
Hi Tom,
Been watching a lot of your stuff and many others as well. So hung up on this the wife has accused me of watching porn. This series is by far the best I have seen and I discovered it just as I started working on turning an old Soix valve facing machine into an end mill sharpener. I think the old valve stem holder can be converted into a semblance of your spindexer. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Jerry Wells
Jerry Wells Hi Jerry,
Thanks for the nice note and comment. Plenty more where all this came from. Stay tuned for some new project videos coming up.
All the best,
Tom
I like how you have a small chuck in front of the big one. Can you show how that is done? I have a tiny chuck that I would love to have in front of my normal one but I did not have the gust to just clamp it in there. some how that does not feel safe.
Hi Inventerius,
My insert chuck has a 50mm x 200mm shank on it that I grip in the larger chuck. I'll try to show it in an upcoming video.
Regards,
Tom
Ok and you grab that with the big chuck. Ok that should be possible for me to make as well thanks!!
Is that a scratch in the small chuck or a crack ?
Hi Jester,
Give me a time stamp. Probably a scratch.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom whereabouts are you getting the indexers for $50, I have searched high a low and the cheapest I could find is $169 plus postage?
Hi Mentor,
Here is one for you. www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=235-6011&PMPXNO=950007&PARTPG=INLMK3
Also try Travers and MSC.
Cheers,
Tom
sorry I don't get it if the two circles have 63 and you go around where does the odd one fit in
360\ 127=
I found that the base was not parallel or square to the spindle on my import spindexer.
I made sure my mill was trammed as close as possible and set up the spindexer so I could use the mill quill and an indicator to set the spindexer spindle as close as I could to no TIR axially all the way around the spindle (the spindle was in the bore temporarily for this, the bore was too rough to indicate) with shims on the vise jaw for Y squareness and tapping the spindexer back and forth for X squareness. After removing the spindle, I fly cut the face (which was up) till it cleaned up. It took about .012 material removal to get the whole face cleaned up. I then used the new face to mill the back end parallel, then set the casting, base side up, with the vise gripping the casing on the two new faces, to do the bottom and two sides. I checked all the faces and sides with a CMM when I was done and got better than .0015 square and parallel all around.
The lesson was don't trust the spindle to be true to any face on these and check them before assuming anything.
Hi Joseph,
Good point. Always check your tools when the work is important. That would be an interesting setup problem. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
00:43 ♫♪ I'm Feeling of Good Vibrations! ♫♪ Lol!
For awhile I thought you could not hear me yelling to cut down the back of that shaft but it all worked out
Hi George,
Yeah I finally heard you after I cleaned the wax out of my ears. The yell-o-meter still works. Thanks for the comment.
Best,
Tom
I'm sure you've probably answered this countless times, but why do you use expensive canned air instead of a blow gun, or even a refillable spray gun (SureShot) style or the SureShot aerosol style cans? The latter can be filled with air alone, and have the straw nozzle as well.
Hi John,
You are right. I have answered this question a thousand times now. Congratulations on being the one thousandth person to ask. Two reasons.
1. I have a loud crappy compressor.
2. My wife can't handle the noise the a blow gun makes.
2b I really want to stay married.
All the best,
Tom
I'm somewhat sorry for bringing it up, but with the same breath, content I was the 1,000th person. Have you looked at the SureShot sprayers? They make an aerosol can sprayer that's refillable (like a spray paint) but it comes with 6 different tips, including a straw version. You could fill it with low pressure compressed air and save a fortune!
Do you live in that "machine shop" 24-7-365 or does your wife not let you "play" at the shop alone? Take the cash you'd spend on a case of "canned air" and buy her a good set of "ears" or something else to distract her from the occasional few second of blow gun and show/give her the savings vs. continuing to buy the only thing that's a bigger "ripoff" than bottled water and she might get used to the sound a blow gun makes. Hard to believe anybody can stand the sound of machine tools, cutters, occasional chatter, grinding etc and have an issue with a little blow gunning occasionally when the latter is simply the inevitable result of the former and the alternative is listening to a "shop vac" and/or losing "hubby" to the "shop" for many more minutes/hours than necessary doing clean-up the "old-fashioned way" with a little "whisk broom" and dust pan.
Hi !
how to make the holes on disk?
+Reinaldo Gonzaga Hi Reinaldo,
You can use and online bolt circle calculator to give you the coordinates to make the holes in the disc. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
thanks Tom!
And next project, a home made super spacer.. *cough* ;D
Hi Smurf,
Might be a good one. I'll keep it in mind.
Best,
Tom
Yeah larger projects is interesting. Especially when going from stock materials to a finished products.. I like to watch the train of thought.. mostly cause i havent got it myself yet, and machining is a hobby. =)
Metry is likely short for "Metrology"
IKEA crap lamp.. i use those, for charging my 3M welding helmet when the lights out in the basement. Most things from IKEA is useless *saids the swedish guy* ;D
Hi Smurf,
The plug was pulling out of the wall. It seems to be fine now. I think the Ikea police are coming to visit you shortly......
Best,
Tom
You can't put 127 holes in two "rows" to "solve the problem" of not being able to get them all in a single row because as you move "inward" toward the center of the "indexer" disk to "offset" the "interpolated" holes they're STILL GOING TO OVERLAP ON THE FINISHED PRODUCT WHEN YOU PUT THE HOLES OR GEAR TEETH OR WHATEVER YOU'RE "INDEXING" ON THE FINISHED PART ON A "CIRCLE" WHERE ITS DIAMETER AND CIRCUMFERENCE ARE STILL PROPORTIONAL TO THE INDEXING DISK SIZE AND THE LOCATIONS OF THE HOLES/TEETH ON THE CIRCUMFERENCE IN DEGREES/MINUTES/SECONDS OF "ARC" ARE IN THE SAME "RELATIVE" POSITION ON BOTH. AND HOW MANY HOLES/TEETH YOU CAN GET ON/IN THE FINISHED PART DICTATES THE DIAMETER/SPACING/OF THE INDEXING HOLES/DISKS USED ON THE INDEXER. NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND. THE NUMBER OF "CUTS" IS ALWAYS "EVEN" EVEN IF THE TOOTH OR SPLINE COUNT IS "ODD" BECAUSE EACH CUT AT EACH "NOTCH" CREATES "HALF" A SPLINE OR TOOTH. THAT'S WHY THEY'RE CALLED "DIVIDING HEADS" RATHER THAN "INDEXING HEADS". THEY "DIVIDE" ANY NUMBER OF FEATURES INTO AN "EVEN" NUMBER OF CUTS.
THEY "INDEX" THE PART RELATIVE TO THE TOOL AND NOT THE TOOL RELATIVE TO THE PART. AND WHEN AN "ODD" NUMBER OF FEATURES IS BEING MACHINED SUCH AS "127" THAT'S NORMALLY GOING TO BE GEAR TEETH AND THE REASON FOR THE "ODD" TOOTH NUMBER WHICH IS A PRIME NUMBER AS WELL AS JUST BEING "ODD" IS TO CREATE A "HUNTING" GEAR RATIO WHERE THE 127-TOOTH GEAR HAS TO ROTATE 127 TIMES FOR IT TO BE "IN TIME" WITH ITS MATING GEAR(S). ENGINE FLYWHEEL RING GEARS/FLEXPLATES ARE A GOOD EXAMPLE OF THAT KIND OF "ENGINEERING MATH" AND ITS DONE TO TRY TO SPREAD THE WEAR OF CRANKING AN ENGINE WITH "EQUALLY SPACED" CYLINDERS AND A 4-STROKE CYCLE OVER ALL THE FLYWHEEL/FLEXPLATE TEETH EVEN THOUGH THE ENGINE WILL "TEND" TO STOP IN THE "SAME" SPOT(S) MORE OFTEN THAN IT DOES IN "RANDOM" SPOTS WHEN ITS SHUT DOWN.
ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF "HUNTING" GEAR RATIOS IS IN RING AND PINION SETS BECAUSE THE "POWER PULSES" OF THE ENGINE CAN BE "IN PHASE" WITH AN "EVEN" GEAR RATIO AND IN A HIGH-LOAD, LOW-SPEED SITUATION IN A "LOW" TRANSMISSION AND/OR TRANSFER CASE GEAR/SPEED, THOSE SHOCK LOADS AND HARMONICS WOULD TEND TO "HAMMER" CERTAIN GEAR TEETH OVER AND OVER AND OVER. AT HIGHER SPEEDS AND/OR LIGHTER LOADS OTHER HARMONICS COULD BE SET UP. TYPICALLY "EVERY" RATIO IN A TRANSMISSION/TRANSFER CASE/DIFFERENTIAL WILL BE A "HUNTING" RATIO EVEN IF IT WORKS OUT TO BE "EVEN" ON PAPER AND THE VEHICLE/COMPONENTS ARE DESIGNED FOR "HEAVY-DUTY" USE. YOUR "127 HOLE" EXAMPLE IS PROBABLY FOR GEAR TEETH AND "HOBBING" GEAR TEETH ON A MILL AND YOU'D ACTUALLY NEED 128 "INDEXING" POSITIONS TO FINISH THE COMPLETE PART.
MY GUESS IS YOU "DID THE MATH" ON 127 INDEXING POSITIONS AND DIVIDED 360 DEGREES BY 127 AND CAME UP "2.83464566929" WHICH MAY EVEN BE AN "INFINITELY REPEATING" NUMBER SINCE 127 IS A PRIME NUMBER AND YOU'RE DIVIDING IT BY AN EVEN NUMBER MORE THAN TWICE AS LARGE. IT DOESN'T REALLY MATTER. NOTHING AND NOBODY CAN "DIVIDE" 127 INTO 360 "EVENLY" OR EVEN "ROUND" IT "ACCURATELY SINCE 3 DOES ROUND "DOWN" 8 AND 4 DOESN'T "ROUND DOWN" 3 ETC UNTIL YOU GET TO "6" WHICH WOULD "ROUND UP" 4 BUT THAT WOULD MAKE 4 INTO 5 AND THAT WOULD ROUND 3 UP TO 4 AND THEN YOU'RE STILL SCREWED BECAUSE "ROUNDING ERRORS" ARE AUTOMATIC REGARDLESS AND THE FARTHER YOU EXTEND THE RADIUS AND CIRCUMFERENCE OF YOUR "ROUND" FINISHED PART, THE MORE "SIGNIFICANT" THE ROUNDING ERRORS BECOME SINCE YOU HAVE TO HAVE A "CUTTER" MADE WITH A CERTAIN "PITCH" AND YOU'RE AGAIN INDEXING THE PART TO THE MACHINE RATHER THAN THE MACHINE TO THE PART.
HOWEVER, IF YOU WERE MORE OF A "MECHANIC" AND LESS OF AN "ENGINEER", YOU MIGHT HAVE KNOWN ABOUT THE WHOLE "HUNTING" GEAR RATIO THING AND WHAT THE INTENDED PURPOSE OF THE "INDEXER" IS AND WHAT "DIVIDER HEADS" ARE USED FOR WHEN YOU START TALKING ABOUT THAT MANY "FEATURES" AND AN ODD/PRIME NUMBER OF THEM. YOU USE A "DIVIDER HEAD" WHEN SIMPLY USING A PROTRACTOR AND A STRAIGHT-EDGE IS IMPOSSIBLE/IMPRACTICAL AND WHEN BROACHING OR HOBBING TEETH OR SPLINES RATHER THAN SIMPLY "DRILLING" A ROUND PART FOR A "ROW" OF HOLES.
WHEN YOU START THINKING ABOUT IT THAT WAY AND REALIZE YOU START YOUR "CUTS" WITH ONE RATHER THAN ZERO AND YOUR FIRST "INDEX" TAKES YOU TO "ONE" SO "128" TOTAL "INDEXES" GET YOU BACK TO "ONE", YOU DIVIDE 360 BY 128 AND GET A NICE AND "EVEN" 2.1825 DEGREES BETWEEN "RADIANS" EXTENDING THROUGH THE "CENTERLINE" OF EACH INDEXING DISK "FEATURE".
2.8125 TIMES 8 IS 22.5. DOUBLE THAT AND YOU HAVE 45 DEGREES. DOUBLE IT AGAIN AND YOU HAVE 90. DOUBLE TWICE MORE AND YOU HAVE 360. YOU SHOULD HAVE LEARNED HOW TO "DIVIDE" CIRCLES IN HIGH SCHOOL GEOMETRY CLASS AND IT DOESN'T GET MUCH EASIER THAN "HALVING" ALL THE "INCLUDED ANGLE" DEGREES OF A CIRCLE UNTIL YOU GET TO "128". BUT THERE'S NO "SHAME" IN NOT "GETTING" THAT SITUATION OR KNOWING OF A "PRACTICAL" EXAMPLE OF WHY SOMEONE WOULD NEED "127" FEATURES ON A MACHINED PART AND IF YOU'RE TRYING TO "EDUCATE" PEOPLE WITH YOUR VIDEOS, YOU'RE DOING THEM AND YOURSELF A GREAT DISSERVICE JUST "PULLING THE PLUG" ON A PROJECT THAT YOU KNOW DAMNED WELL DIDN'T "WORK OUT" BECAUSE YOU'RE TOO "PROUD" OR RATHER CONCEITED TO ADMIT YOU'RE NOT AN "EXPERT" ON EVERY ASPECT OF "MACHINING". NOBODY IS AND "EXPERTS" ARE USUALLY OF THE "SELF-PROCLAIMED" VARIETY AND "WORK" AT "TEACHING" RATHER THAN "DOING" WHAT THEY'RE SUPPOSEDLY "EXPERTS" IN.
I SUSPECT YOU'RE THE "PRODUCT" OF AN "APPRENTICESHIP" AND THERE'S NOTHING MORE POTENTIALLY "DESTRUCTIVE" TO "EDUCATION" THAN "APPRENTICESHIP" WHERE THE "MASTER" IS ALSO A FORMER "APPRENTICE" AND HASN'T SEEN/DONE/EXPERIENCED/LEARNED ANYTHING OUTSIDE HIS "FIELD" OR "INSIDE" IT SINCE "GRADUATING" FROM HIS OWN APPRENTICESHIP DURING WHICH HE PROBABLY LEARNED NOTHING BUT WHAT HIS "MASTER" KNEW AND COULD REMEMBER AND "THOUGHT" WHETHER IT WAS RIGHT OR WRONG OR INDIFFERENT.
THERE'S NO "NEW BLOOD" OR "FRESH THINKING" OR "OPEN-MINDEDNESS" IN AN "PERPETUAL APPRENTICESHIP" EDUCATION "SYSTEM" WHERE YOU ONLY HAVE TO GO BACK A FEW "GENERATIONS" IN SOMETHING LIKE "MACHINING" AND A "DIVIDING HEAD" WAS A "HIGH-TECH" PIECE OF HARDWARE AND "NUMERICAL CONTROL" DIDN'T EVEN EXIST MUCH LESS "CNC". "MODERN MACHINING" IS ALL POST-WWII AND "DEFENSE CONTRACTORS" ALWAYS END UP BEING "LATE" TO ANY NEW TECHNOLOGY BECAUSE OF HOW LONG AND DRAWN-OUT AND BUREAUCRATIC AND "SLOW" THE "PROCUREMENT" PROCESS IS AND BECAUSE THOSE ARE "GOOD JOBS" AND USUALLY IN "FACTORY TOWNS" WHERE YOUR LAST NAME REALLY IS YOUR "MEAL TICKET" AND WHOLE FAMILIES AND MULTIPLE GENERATIONS OF "WORKING CLASS" MEN GET JOBS "AT THE PLANT" AND MAKE GOOD MONEY AND LIVE GOOD LIVES AND ALL ON A GOOD UNION AND "UNION CARD" AND THE BENEFITS OF "HIGHER EDUCATION" GO COMPLETELY UNAPPRECIATED BECAUSE "IF IT WAS GOOD ENOUGH FOR MY (INSERT FAMILY MEMBER TERM FOR CLOSE MALE RELATIVE HERE), ITS GOOD ENOUGH FOR ME!" IS THE "CONVENTIONAL WISDOM.
THAT'S WHY MORE AND MORE "PRIVATE SECTOR" INDUSTRIES/COMPANIES THAT HAVE TO BE SUCCESSFUL AND PROFITABLE IN SPITE OF RATHER THAN BECAUSE OF "GOVERNMENT CONTRACTS" ARE RAPIDLY ADOPTING AND INCREASINGLY ENFORCING "RULES" AND "REGULATIONS" AGAINST "NEPOTISM" AND IF A "CLOSE RELATIVE" OF AN EXISTING EMPLOYEE APPLIES FOR A JOB IN THE SAME "DEPARTMENT" AS THAT FAMILY MEMBER AND DOESN'T HAVE "FORMAL EDUCATION" OR AT LEAST SEVERAL YEARS OF "PRIOR WORK HISTORY" IN A VERY SIMILAR "FIELD" AND PREFERABLY A FEW DIFFERENT PREVIOUS EMPLOYERS/REFERENCES OUTSIDE THE "LOCAL AREA", THEY'RE VERY LIKELY TO ONLY BE HIRED AS "APPRENTICES" OR OFFERED A JOB IN SOME OTHER "CRAFT" THAT'S LOWER ON THE TOTEM POLE OF "IMPORTANCE" AND "PRESTIGE" AND THE PAY SCALE BUT IN EITHER CASE WILL MAKE SURE THEY'RE NOT "ON THE JOB" WORKING SIDE BY SIDE WITH THAT FAMILY MEMBER AND WHERE BEING "SO-AND-SO'S (INSERT CLOSE FAMILY MEMBER TERM HERE)" MAY GET THEM "SPECIAL" TREATMENT.
YOU DON'T "LEARN" ANYTHING IN AN ENVIRONMENT WHERE YOU'RE NOT CHALLENGED AND YOU DON'T LEARN "ON THE JOB" WHEN YOU CHOOSE A "JOB" BASED ON HOW MUCH MONEY IT PAYS AND/OR HOW CONVENIENT IT IS FOR YOU AND/OR HOW EASILY YOU CAN GET IT AND/OR HOW MUCH "JOB SECURITY" IT COMES WITH BESIDES HOW TO KEEP THAT JOB AND KEEP "BENEFITING" FROM WHAT IT "GIVES" YOU AND OTHERWISE AREN'T "INTO IT". YOU LEARN ABOUT THINGS YOU'RE ACTIVELY INTERESTED IN AND WANT TO KNOW ABOUT AND WHEN YOU PAY FOR YOUR EDUCATION RATHER THAN GET PAID FOR "LEARNING ON THE JOB", YOU'RE VERY UNLIKELY TO "WASTE MONEY" ON "JUST A JOB".
THE MORE OF THESE RUclips "HOW-TO" CHANNELS/VIDEOS I SEE THAT COME ACROSS AS MORE OF A "CORRESPONDENCE COURSE" BY SOME "EXPERT" IN THE "FIELD" OR "INDUSTRY" OR "TRADE" WHO SEEMS TO "PULL THE PLUG" OR RAPIDLY CHANGE COURSE FROM "DO IT RIGHT" TO "GET IT DONE" WHEN OBVIOUSLY "CHALLENGED" BY A "LACK OF RESOURCES" AT SOME POINT IN THE PROJECT BE THOSE "RESOURCES" MATERIALS, TOOLS, ABILITY, SKILL, KNOWLEDGE, AMBITION, KNOW-HOW OR MORE THAN LIKELY THE SIMPLE AND EASILY-MASTERED "ART" OF SAYING "i DON'T KNOW", THE MORE IF THEY ARE "CORRESPONDENCE COURSES" SOME "EXPERTS" AND FORMER "APPRENTICES" SHARING A COMMON "MASTER" OR TWO ARE "TEACHING" AS PART OF THEIR OWN "EDUCATION" AND MAYBE SOME KIND OF "MASTER'S THESIS/PROJECT" THEY HAVE TO PUT ON RUclips FOR "PUBLIC CONSUMPTION" SO THEIR "MASTER" CAN "GRADE" THEM AND "RATE" THEIR PROGRESS AND "GRADUATE" THEM WHEN SATISFIED THEY'RE "MASTERS" THEMSELVES.
BECAUSE I REALLY DON'T SEE ANY OTHER REASON FOR SO MANY "MASTER MACHINISTS" TO BE MAKING SUCH "SIMILAR" VIDEOS ON SO MANY "DIFFERENT" CHANNELS FOR A "DIYer" AUDIENCE ON RUclips WHERE 99% OF VIEWS ARE "DRIVE-BY" VIEWS AND RARELY DO "VIEWERS" WATCH THE FULL VIDEO MUCH LESS EVERY VIDEO A "RANDOM" RUclipsR THEY STUMBLED ACROSS PUTS OUT AND LIKE "VIEWS", SUBSCRIBERS/LIKES ARE ABOUT AS "RELIABLE" A MEASURE OF "SUCCESS" ON RUclips AS ENDLESS "PRAISE" FROM "VIEWERS" IN THE COMMENT SECTION BECAUSE RUclips "MANAGEMENT" CAN AND DOES "CREATE" VIEWS/SUBSCRIPTIONS/LIKES AND EVEN "SPAMMED" COMMENTS AT WILL WHEN TRYING TO GET A "RUclipsR" TO "MONETIZE" HIS OR HER VIDEOS OR TO GET THEM TO KEEP "MONETIZING" THEM.
well you have gotten this far so why not go to simpal indexing by adding a 60 to one crownwheel & pinion . as i have we open the reng of the tool to a brand new level if indexing , & with the vernier scale of the ten point we get the ability to tues the vereance & dimetel pich of the gear to be cut IE 14 demetral pic or 8 dementral pich . a with distan between teeth Now our ability rely dos widen out , to increasingly interesting point of origin .
ihave 3c cliits & that i have incpreted into my home built indexer ,
Well survived corvid & Phenomena. LOL I final managed a cut a 6 Threads to the inch. in my 200yer old lathe. that did not have a lead screw for my ER40 collate baking plat for my chuck. found that cutting 6 trad's with my rack chuck OK but that was out a touch or two as i got to wind the baking plat on as it was a steel baking plat. I cut back the thread to 5 & i lapped the last third in to an old spindle I had discarded. i concluded the rack was silty out by removing a thread. the pitch came back in sufficiently. & only a few thou was needed to be removed so the back plat went on tight . over the register. it is now on my lath & the test was very exsepterbal reparability of one hundredth of a tenth of 1000 " for a 200 hundred year old lath i think that an averment dont you. Yes i sups i could have fitted a led screw but we live in England Not the USA. & money is always tight . So in answer to that question i once asked you. how do i cut a big thread without a lead screw Ues your rack you may after modify the Stranded thread . But you can cut both nut & thread to Mach that not standard LOL ,
CUT THE 127 TOOTH GEAR!