We put a T5 transmission into our 1946 Ford pickup | Pt.2
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- Last week you saw Davin tear out the transmission of our 1946 Ford pickup and get our junkyard T5 transmission ready to swap in. This week it's full steam ahead as we complete this modern upgrade. There are some bumps along the way, but nothing a little time and determination can't solve. So, watch along and see what it takes to bring this 1940's relic a little closer to modern times. You might even learn a thing or two.
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To make it easier to put in transmissions we always used a couple of long bolts with no heads. This way the transmission could be slid back and forth until it slipped in. Great project as always.
100% excelent metod! Use it too
Bloody great idea👍🏻🇭🇲
Agreed! Grinding the ends down to a point is the final step in making studs that are even more forgiving for placement.
That’s a great idea.
I agree I use this technique to install heavy duty transmissions in semi truck it always works perfectly
Thank you for showing this without the added drama that reality shows do. Keep up the great work!!!!
I put a T5 trans in my 1950 Ford F-1. Great upgrade! Had a lot of trouble with it jumping out of gear (mostly in 5th and reverse) - turned out to be the aftermarket stock replacement F-1 shifter boot. It looked great but was much to stiff so it pulled the shifter back to center without provocation. A new boot fabricated from a very soft leather did the trick.
When I have to put a bunch of extensions together, I electrical tape them to stop them from falling apart. I also put a few raps of electrical tape on the universal. It stiffens up the universal joint up but still allows a little bit of flex.
Great mod! Great video! Put the T5 in my 1948 Chevy truck, did the speedo mod myself, someone used to have an internet post showing how to do it, just a little mill work. Always enjoy watching you!
Ah, the old 9 extensions trick lol. Had someone tell me why and just to buy a long one, I told him sometimes you don't have line of sight to the bolt and the bunch of small extensions have enough flex to get around obstacles. On my lowered XJ I need 7 plus a flex socket/joint just to get on lol.
With the XJ/TJ the struggle is real. Not only do you need a 27 foot extension, but if the engine hasn't been messed with in the past you've also got to deal with the reverse torx bolts.
Those foot long extensions get expensive why buy a 30$ extension when you can buy six 2 dollar ones
That is so true!
A tip I found putting the dozen or so T5's (had several S10's over the years and would buy broke down ones, fix em, them drive em for a few months till I found my next project S10) and found that leaving it in first gear, to get the input shaft to line up with the splines in the friction disk, twist she output shaft to and fro a little bit and it will line it up perfectly real quick.
Some people might say it sounds like a POS. BUT I think it sounds amazing. It's got that nice raspy lumpy thing happening. Great information. And great video as always.
On highway trucks I used to take one seal.out of the bearing. That side gets installed toward the crankshaft. Then pump some grease into the back of the crank to give good lube to that bearing.
Heating: you gotta get yourself a Mini-Ductor tool. Works awesome. It's inductive heat, so no flames to potentially damage anything around the part you are working on. No danger around gas fumes (no flame). You could have heated your shifter right in the truck's cab!!!
I love mini-ductors they are perfect for spots where you don't want to set fire to nearby rubber or wiring.
While living in the area I found a lot of helpful shops that will help with PROJECTS.Michigan people are GREAT that way!!!!
for a second i got excited when Davin marked the outline of the hole on that piece of cardboard. Thought he was going to buttweld it in.... oh, and the rubber thingy on the driveshaft was obviously not needed anymore.
Well again i just learnt something new, don't over tighten the U bolts. i thought the cape were hardened metal
There's a company in SLC, UT that is currently developing a top cover for that transmission to place the shifter back in the stock location, and will accept the original Ford shifter. That way no floor modifications will need to be made.
Do you have the name of that company...
@@joeschlotthauer840 Salt City Speed Shop, they're located in Layton, UT. Last I checked with the guy that will be doing them is that they are near ready, but not completely there yet.
@@ryancampbell1252
Thank you for the kind response...
Nothing on their website yet...
This is nice video. I watch this and a couple other videos each time I do something with my T5.
I'm so glad you rescued that truck!!
Wow, what a truck. Looking forward to getting back on my 51. Time is coming soon.
Fastest hole puncher around, cool air tool. 😎👍🇨🇦
Wow. Transmission cam. Very cool. Nice work!! Davin is, the best of Hagerty!
Beautiful truck, excellent reform that improves consumption and driving around town and also greatly improves the smoothness of the clutch pedal. I send you a big hug and blessings from Buenos Aires Argentina
I have one long 3/8" extension shaft, that was bought for that purpose; reach T56 or T5 bellhousing bolts from the tailshaft.
Running T5 in my 68 chevy p/u..just like butter! found it in a old IROC camaro,,,,T5 great trans, always underated. awesome video!
Another job well hammered!
FYI Lock washers They are still used on many applications in the belief that they will will "lock" the nut/bolt to the joint and prevent loosening. The body of evidence, based upon both experience and experimental results, is that they do not prevent loosening and can be shown to actually speed up the rate of loosening in many cases. I never use them instead I use the blue Loctite.
I have never had luck with split lock washers in application where shock and vibration are possible. More to that point I've had them break on drive flanges and then the bolt has no locking mechanism and ultimately falls out. In my opinion a star washer would be a better choice where torque is critical as any compound will skew the torque reading. Otherwise I use a compound or a mechanical lock nut, (not a nylock) tab, pin, key, etc.
@@jwszewczyk If in doubt, drill the bolt heads and use stainless steel safety wire. It's commonly used on aircraft to prevent bolts from backing out... if done correctly, pretty much foolproof. .030 wire is a very commonly used diameter - just don't buy Chinese junk! If you don't know how to use safety wire, there are plenty of instructional videos to view. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
I'm jealous that your 46 is running with a t5 and my 47 [same body style for though who might not know] is still sitting in my drive way. Great video sir!
Great videos always this fella what a champion.
Love it, what a useful upgrade!
Great job Mr Davin! Congrats! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Good job!! We have a bone stock(restored) 1946 Chevy 1/2 ton at the shop. Years ago, we collected all the bits to convert from Granny gear 4 speed, to S-10 5 speed. Even got a new 3rd member, to eliminate the torque tube. Maybe showing the owner this video, will push him over the edge to do the job.
...sadly we have SO many other projects going right now. Only 24hr in a day.
wow, thanks for the show!
Take note, anyone watching. Buy high temp black automotive silicone, and use it on everything. You can glue magnets to a flywheel with it. It has crazy good adhesion and works like a glue, but it's also flexible enough that the parts can be pried apart later. I use it to glue parts to circuit boards, gluing parts into place permanently, and sealing every type of gasket surface. Oil pans don't need a gasket, just a bead of black silicone. Of course, if you over tighten the flanges the silicone can get into the engine, so you have to be careful about the initial torque you use so you don't push all of the silicone out.
I’d love to see that truck restored to its original dark green with pin stripes. My dad purchased a brand new 1946 panel truck that color for his J.R. Watkins route. It had a 59A V8 with 3 speed on the floor.
Instead of using some off the hardware store shelf spray paint , try and use some Steel-It coating!
I haven't found a better coating in a spray can. You can spray directly on bare metal, has excellent weld-thru properties and is a great rust inhibitor. I never get runs in it either, no matter how sloppy and impatient I get when spraying items.
I would offer almost identical input for the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black as a coating. Seems like it might be a bit pricey (compared to "off the shelf" products but, as you say, what a difference!!! It lays out flat, (I'll jinx myself here) it about NEVER runs, and is quite tough. Even holds its own against lacquer thinner and brake fluid. Without exception, I Have never used a aerosol spray with a better nozzle (speaking to Davin's complaint)!!
@@pappabob29 How is its weld-through properties?
Steel-It is better than any specifically made weld-thru primer I have tried (3M, U-POL, POR-15). It's so good I regularly TIG weld through the stuff!
@@OMCbuilt
Extreme Chassis Black that I'm referring to is NOT a primer. It's a finish paint. Semi-gloss/satin or gloss. They do offer a primer for it also. I was speaking to Davin's complaint about him not liking the paint/nozzle he was using. I thought you were too??
My son most often TIG welds so we have shied away from the "weld through" idea. The entire rest of these cars is not "protected" ANYWHERE else so we decided "why should we worry about one patch seam??? We did just purchase a MIG welder so that idea may "develop".
I don't understand much about trannys, but it's a pleasure watching you do your craft.
Awesome upgrade!
Nice job! Learned some stuff too. I believed the Aussie t50 built by borg-warner was an exact copy of the t5. Similar, but a fork arm clutch which eventually (ask me how I know) wears out the little wearplate that holds it to the bell housing, leading to breaking the fork arm itself. Had to get the housing welded up too. Pivot shaft a much better system! Had a cog drive to a sensor in the spot where the cabl used to run fun for speedo. Great stuff!
Just and simply beautiful!!!!
That flathead sounds good.
Great stuff!!
great swap Davin, but for me that modern shifter knob would have to go.....
I put a mercedes om617 turbo diesel in my ford truck with a mazda m5r2 5 speed transmission. It’s been about 6 years and still running strong. I average around 30mpg and it runs on diesel or waste motor oil mostly but has run on other stuff in a pinch lol
Thanks Davin and crew for another awesome video. Makes home with covid much easier!
Good ol beer box templates
Damn those were some nice plug welds very neat and tidy
Love that truck.
"Relative" is his favorite word.
@31:29... What goes 90MPH Backwards? Snot! LOL! That new cross member is the prettiest piece on that truck! (pretty is over-rated) I like "Driveshaft Cam". Cool stuff!
Bet their someone that saw the big hole in the floor being covered over and said : pecfect spot for a cup holder .
Great work boys!
I could watch David with Hagerty and Rich from across the border all day every day.
Should make a significant difference at cruising speed.
Very nicely done. Certainly it will make the truck much more drivable.
I'm going to be swapping in a Borg Warner T5 from an early nineties model Mustang into a 1976 Mercury Monarch Gran Gia. I'm sure there are some that will say why would I want to do that. well the answer is the Monarch is in really good condition it's a two door with bucket seats and a floor console. and it came from the factory with four wheel disc brakes and a hydro boost brake system and a nine inch posi trac rear end. but the C 4 automatic transmission that is currently in it developed a small leak from the front pump seal. so being as I will have to pull the C 4 automatic transmission to fix it. and because I was able to do some trading to get the T 5. and the car already has a really good running 5.0 L small block in it. I figured it would be the way to go and I prefer the manual transmission anyway. I know the application is different, but this video is really helpful in spotting any issues I will want to look out for regarding the T 5 transmission. so far there are only a couple issues I would be concerned about. and that is a clutch pedal and clutch leakage going from the automatic to the manual transmission. and if I'm going to have any problems with the final drive gear ratio. meaning the car might be extremely high geared going from the automatic transmission to the manual transmission. but I'm going to research what the proper gear ratio should be for the T 5. and if worst comes to worst I will have to drop the third member and change the gearing. anyway I wanted to say thanks for the video now I have a little better idea what I will be working with.
Better have someone follow you at 65 and watch for parts rattling off! 😀
Great vid!!!!!!!!!!
Only 9 dislikes is impressive, keep up the good work!
Them skinny old fat bicycle tires! 😀
great information cool video
No matter how it looks if it functions better then it looks its ok in my book.😎👍
When is your shop going to buy a laser cleaner to get your trans housing as clean and bright as your new bell housing and tail shaft unit
i thought they were getting a vapor hone
Great videos of this trans swap and truck. I've watched all of the videos about this build numerous times lol!You make it look so easy! I love the truck, the patina and the way it sounds but I'm kinda biased, I have a 47 2ton (Ford)that I pulled out of a farm salvage yard and I love the way she looks rust and all. I really struggled with the trans cross member because I didnt want to weaken the structural integrity of the frame because I plan on using the truck for occasional work and the weight of a cummins 12 valve, and a NV4500 coupled to a NP205 transfer case. I probably went over kill on the new cross member but its a big truck so it shouldn't matter.I installed duce and a half axles and wheels ,the wheels are nearly the same as what was oem except for the lug patern and they are comparable to the truck. Great videos! Keep up the good work!
Set it on axle stands under the axle housing and lower a bit more until the tear hoist arms are just ot touching the frame. You now have most weight on the rear springs and can take the measurement with room under the vehicle.
The size of the nut is also a clue to how much a specific fastener should be torqued
Sweet installation . May I suggest a Christmas present to us your viewers. Take that front bumper off and the grill out clean them up and straighten. The new white painted front end would really pop. Thanks!
T5 ran until about 2004 in Australia. Was ran in the Ford Falcon.
More road test please!
Awesome ! Not much space between the floor board and the yolk though.👍
I always measured with the wheels in the air, then on the ground and gave the shop both measurements. They always knew what to do and I never had any problems. Oh btw, I know it is not shop work, but it was kinda. Last night one of my fans on my PC went out so I pulled the myriad of wires and cables, it has triple screens, a wheel, two shifters, a couple of button boxes and other stuff attached. I pulled it and took it to my "shop" which is my kitchen. I am a bachelor, strange right? LOL Anyways, I had to solder up and shrink wrap some wires and blow all the dust out with my air compressor. I live in a high desert we have no humidity, but I drain my tank and then refill it before using. I don't do much work on my truck these days, I barely drive except to and from the store. I do my driving on my rig in my living room. I still do an amazing amount of machining, grinding, bending and all that here in my apartment. All during the day or at least before 10 pm.
Gracias maestro
Saludos
8:40 My Speedway bellhousing didn't come with a place to put the return spring. Also tech support told me the 4 mounting holes are 7/16-14 but they are not, they are 12mm x 1.75mm, I used the original bolts but had to trim the 2 bottom ones.
how did you mount the return spring please get back to me ihave to do mine thank you
montage music ftw!
14:47 - I hate those things when there's no way of using press to push them in. Expecially those with soft outer surface like Elring's radial seals. They seal great, but you come with them at slightly wrong angle and they strip to the metal very fast.
28:45 - I thought that those 'universal oscialting tools' are just a gimmic, not a saw not a grinder, but it was really a life savier to strip bitumic underseal from whole bottom of one of my projects. This and heat gun.
I've heard dry ice instead of heat will make it a lot faster and cleaner
@@bradmaas6875 that seems like good idea, I'll try that out
Los traseros parecen guardafangos de
Moto los de este pickup son mucho más grandes !
Man I'm so glad I subscribed.
Nice!!
Very good
I agree!
please think about a stock looking shifter handle the modern one looks shite. a 50's ford floor shifter handle would work and it would bolt on to the T5 so it wouldn't look shite. you can weld an offset plate to the bottom of the old ford shifter and make them fit
friction disk aka aa clutch damn you not that fancy
Thor the drummer boy!
Early squad reporting for duty
I'm surprised no one has assumed there is no oil in the box!
Progress😎
Great project. Adds drive ability to an old beast. Brakes upgrade next?
Thanks for sharing.
I'm curious about if that T-5 Is stout enough being designed for an S10 now in a
considerately heavier truck.
Hey Davin: As always, very nice job!!! In spite of the Pandemic, it's been quite busy around here over the past year so I have lots of "catching up" to do on your videos. So, assuming you haven't done it already, that 50 Chevy 5 window suffers from all the same issues as the 46 Ford so it also needs one of these swaps. I know, you just finished one so why would I be asking for another??? The "stovebolt" is quite the different animal being a six cylinder and a closed driveline. I'm going to guess there's probably WAY more of the T-5's going into the old Chevies so I'm sure there's plenty of interest!! What do you say???
Again, very nice job!!!👍🛠⚙️🔩🗜👍👍😜
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At 12:28, In 1946 is that the year that Ford started implementing more wood in their vehicles? Better than the plastic now days LOL.
Lmao I saw that
always use oil with drill bits. they will drill without it but they will last with it.
Not oil... cutting fluid. Yes, there's a difference.
- Max Giganteum
Great 👍
Great video and you've made the truck very cool. Maybe one of your viewers can donate a correct pair of rear fenders.
Guys, you really need to soundtreat your nice garage ceiling with some DYI sound panels to reduce reverb and echo. Used towels in wood frames work just fine. Fan of your videos!
I'd want another half inch of driveshaft length.
I wonder how hard it would be to do a power steering and hvac into the truck
I'm guessing y'all got this out of a 93-95 s10 based on the tail piece. My 93 s10 t5 world class looks just like that, same toner ring and have the electronic speedo sensor
Great Video, Can you explain the dual fuel pumps and how you hooked them up.
Any videos of the truck at highway speeds? Watched both parts and the test drive; part that mattered most was cut short, ugh!!
Great video. I'm doing the conversion in a 49 Merc. What's interesting is they didn't put a tab slot in the bell housing to attach my spring to? Other than that pretty straight forward till I get modifying my Trans mount. Any ideas on how to attach that spring? Thanks.
29:14, use of modern technology, CAD, Cardboard Aided Design
Mechanical speedometer experts needed to ask this question:
Does the pickup come with the proper gearing for any application according to what you have in order to maintain speed reading accuracy?
Even some electronic sensors are gear driven, not using a Hall effect sensor.
On the ones I've done you have to buy the correct speedo gear set matched to the rear end gearing to get an accurate reading. It also assumes you have stock sized tires.
@@ol_smokey9370, so the tire height and final gear ratio must be figured out in order to get the proper gear set.
6:22 do those lockwashers really do anything, or does one actually need Nordlocks for this?