It would be great if your asking questions on a problem and possible repair, Follow up with the results for others and for (Contractorrepair) he is helping you and he will sometimes ask the results if it helped etc. and no response from anyone. Its like get your answer and forget to thank him or even pass on the info to help others with the results. Sorry to say however if I were him, I would unsubscribe you from the channel and never answer another question for you. Simply rude to get free help and just ignore everything from that point on. Just my thoughts, anyway, thank you for being there and offering your knowledge and years of experience ( Contractorrepair ) to put videos together to help people DIY and help them save money and learn how to do repairs themselves. Great job and thank you.
Nick - Great Video. I have a 95 Club Car DS Gas with the FE 290. I was driving it and it would run great get down the road, stop and it would not get going again. I would go get my trailer and after 20 min of cooling down it would start running again. I have replaced my coil, but it still is doing the same thing. Should I replace the rev limiter or coil igniter next?
I would disconnect the riv limiter at the brown wire First. Run and test. If the spark still fails then replace Igniter and test again. Keep me updated.
@@Contractorrepair I removed the brown wire to the rev limiter. I tested and the cart did the same thing. I let it cool down and the spark came back. Do I replace the igniter then or the rev limiter?
My starter motor keeps burning up. Previous owner removed Rev limiter and adjusted the governor. He used it in his driveway with no problems. But now that I have it, it’s driven more frequently and longer trips. Thats why it’s failing. Will installing a new rev limiter and voltage regulator solve my problem?
Well, It could be a multitude of things ,now adjusting the governor down. Just slow the speed down to about eighteen miles an hour I suggest. You will know because does the cart will travel slower. second of all and I say this with 30 years of experience. A silver line brand starter gen/ remand of non club car . There is a 60/40 chance the starter will fail. I have had some fail in 600 yrs brand new off Amazon. I'm sure you get my point. Are you brushes going to hell? It might be easier just to give me a call 989 395 0919 Nick
Hello I know this video is a year old, not sure if you are still replying to comments or not but. I'm trying to fix my dad's old golf cart that has a 1999 kawasaki FE290D-AS17 engine. The Problem it is having is intermittent spark. some times it will run great all day and other times it won't even drive out of the shed. The problem has been getting getting worse over the past two or three weeks and now it's very unreliable. I've tried removing the rev-limiter, still does the same thing. This does not have the igniter behind the rev-limiter plate just a wire that goes under the heat shield. Does the 1999 model kawasaki FE290D-AS17 not have an igniter or is it somewhere else? I've noticed if I take a screwdriver and ground out the plug wire for several spins of the engine, it will start sparking again for a little while before then stopping again. Not sure if that helps with the diagnosis or not but...
A hard start to your issue is to evaluate all of the equipment wiring. The connections that allow Spark to exist, and stop. Do you possess what they call a spark tester?
@@Contractorrepair I don't have an inline spark tester but I tested with a screwdriver in the plug wire and the spark is very inconsistent and sometimes it won't spark until I ground out the plug wire on the head for a few spins. The plug is new and I tested it in a lawnmower that ran fine with it.
For Anyone having the same issue. I was able to confirm that the 1999 model has the igniter built into the coil and that was the issue in my case. I replaced the coil and it's doing good again now.
hey i just picked up a 1996 that has the silver ignitor behind the rev limiter. it has weak spark , the previous owner cut the wires to the limiter and the ignitor, i tried wiring it back up together using wiring digrams and your vid but if i understand you correctly by unplugging the white/black wire near the oil dip stick it bypasses everything and if i still have no spark(weak spark) my issue is the coil itself correct? i removed the shroud cleaned the coil and the magnets also unplugged the black wire directly from the coil still just weak spark on tester. thanks for making these videos really helps a lot.
I recently got a 550 mule with the fe290 engine, i put a new carb on, it has good spark but will not crank or even fire. It is blowing misty fuel?/smoke out the carb intake. i adjusted valves with no change. You think it could be that the intake valve needs lapping? I could post a video of what its doing.
Time to pull the head. Valve action ( poor closing of the intake and it's call blow back. Our piston at Top Dead center or in lamins term 90 before the piston return back in to cylinder. Once the pistons come up to the top off the cylinder that's call TDC.se under compression both valves need to be closed and I mean closed. I great way to check is once we are at TDC is to pop the valve cover and wiggle the rocker arms and if we find lots of play or it tighter than hell it's time to adjust the valves to 0.06 both will the piston up at TDC. If there's still blow back out the intake the intake valve is ether hanging open and or bent. This my seem like a lot of info. But start here and if that S.O.B. still blows back get the head off its time to see under the plug and valve seat area.
Do you have a compression tester. Take a reading before the heads removed then after the new gasket ( head gasket ), is reinstalled check it again. What's you plug the original one look like wet and oily or dry and black chalky looking.
Howdy. Great video. I just purchased a used 2003 Club Car with the Kawasaki 290. Multiple issues so far. Gummed up carb, weak fuel pump also sucking air at the crankcase line. There was a couple blown fuses one being inline. Also an intermittent no spark condition im dealing with now. Unfortunately im on our seasonal campsite at the moment and will have to return and trailer it home to work on it. But heres what’s confusing me. It runs fine for a while, when we get to the base of a hill is very typical where it dies. Now if i hold the gas down and quickly shut the key off and turn it back on a few times it would start. Not always though. When it does start it may or may not die on its own. There’s definitely something intermittent there???? So i did purchase the rev limiter. (The block on the lower front of engine). Haven’t put it on yet. But im thinking about relocating it to the side of the engine compartment. Whats your thoughts on that?
Hey Nick. Fyi. RUclips unsubscribed me from your channel. I had to resubscribe. Anyhow. I think you were right about that oil level sensor. Cart runs beautifully until i hit that slight uphill. Gonna unplug that sucker tomorrow. Too dark now.
Hey Nick, thanks for the heads up.
Hey thanks for subscribing if you have any issues whatsoever hit me up. I'll do my best to help you out. Nick
It would be great if your asking questions on a problem and possible repair, Follow up with the results for others and for (Contractorrepair) he is helping you and he will sometimes ask the results if it helped etc. and no response from anyone. Its like get your answer and forget to thank him or even pass on the info to help others with the results.
Sorry to say however if I were him, I would unsubscribe you from the channel and never answer another question for you. Simply rude to get free help and just ignore everything from that point on. Just my thoughts, anyway, thank you for being there and offering your knowledge and years of experience ( Contractorrepair ) to put videos together to help people DIY and help them save money and learn how to do repairs themselves. Great job and thank you.
Nick - Great Video. I have a 95 Club Car DS Gas with the FE 290. I was driving it and it would run great get down the road, stop and it would not get going again. I would go get my trailer and after 20 min of cooling down it would start running again. I have replaced my coil, but it still is doing the same thing. Should I replace the rev limiter or coil igniter next?
I would disconnect the riv limiter at the brown wire First. Run and test. If the spark still fails then replace Igniter and test again. Keep me updated.
@@Contractorrepair I removed the brown wire to the rev limiter. I tested and the cart did the same thing. I let it cool down and the spark came back. Do I replace the igniter then or the rev limiter?
Replace the ignitor/ and or Ignition coil.
Do you think you could do a video of the entire wiring?
I’ll get working on this great idea!
My starter motor keeps burning up. Previous owner removed Rev limiter and adjusted the governor. He used it in his driveway with no problems. But now that I have it, it’s driven more frequently and longer trips. Thats why it’s failing. Will installing a new rev limiter and voltage regulator solve my problem?
Well, It could be a multitude of things ,now adjusting the governor down. Just slow the speed down to about eighteen miles an hour I suggest. You will know because does the cart will travel slower. second of all and I say this with 30 years of experience.
A silver line brand starter gen/ remand of non club car . There is a 60/40 chance the starter will fail. I have had some fail in 600 yrs brand new off Amazon. I'm sure you get my point. Are you brushes going to hell? It might be easier just to give me a call
989 395 0919 Nick
Hello I know this video is a year old, not sure if you are still replying to comments or not but.
I'm trying to fix my dad's old golf cart that has a 1999 kawasaki FE290D-AS17 engine.
The Problem it is having is intermittent spark. some times it will run great all day and other times it won't even drive out of the shed.
The problem has been getting getting worse over the past two or three weeks and now it's very unreliable.
I've tried removing the rev-limiter, still does the same thing.
This does not have the igniter behind the rev-limiter plate just a wire that goes under the heat shield.
Does the 1999 model kawasaki FE290D-AS17 not have an igniter or is it somewhere else?
I've noticed if I take a screwdriver and ground out the plug wire for several spins of the engine, it will start sparking again for a little while before then stopping again.
Not sure if that helps with the diagnosis or not but...
A hard start to your issue is to evaluate all of the equipment wiring. The connections that allow Spark to exist, and stop. Do you possess what they call a spark tester?
I know this sounds simple, but have you replace the spark plug? My concern is that there’s a crack in the porcelain if it’s the old one.
@@Contractorrepair I don't have an inline spark tester but I tested with a screwdriver in the plug wire and the spark is very inconsistent and sometimes it won't spark until I ground out the plug wire on the head for a few spins.
The plug is new and I tested it in a lawnmower that ran fine with it.
For Anyone having the same issue. I was able to confirm that the 1999 model has the igniter built into the coil and that was the issue in my case.
I replaced the coil and it's doing good again now.
hey i just picked up a 1996 that has the silver ignitor behind the rev limiter. it has weak spark , the previous owner cut the wires to the limiter and the ignitor, i tried wiring it back up together using wiring digrams and your vid but if i understand you correctly by unplugging the white/black wire near the oil dip stick it bypasses everything and if i still have no spark(weak spark) my issue is the coil itself correct? i removed the shroud cleaned the coil and the magnets also unplugged the black wire directly from the coil still just weak spark on tester. thanks for making these videos really helps a lot.
Yes replace the coil.
Well what happened. ?
I recently got a 550 mule with the fe290 engine, i put a new carb on, it has good spark but will not crank or even fire. It is blowing misty fuel?/smoke out the carb intake. i adjusted valves with no change. You think it could be that the intake valve needs lapping? I could post a video of what its doing.
Time to pull the head. Valve action ( poor closing of the intake and it's call blow back. Our piston at Top Dead center or in lamins term 90 before the piston return back in to cylinder. Once the pistons come up to the top off the cylinder that's call TDC.se under compression both valves need to be closed and I mean closed. I great way to check is once we are at TDC is to pop the valve cover and wiggle the rocker arms and if we find lots of play or it tighter than hell it's time to adjust the valves to 0.06 both will the piston up at TDC. If there's still blow back out the intake the intake valve is ether hanging open and or bent. This my seem like a lot of info. But start here and if that S.O.B. still blows back get the head off its time to see under the plug and valve seat area.
Do you have a compression tester. Take a reading before the heads removed then after the new gasket ( head gasket ), is reinstalled check it again. What's you plug the original one look like wet and oily or dry and black chalky looking.
Howdy. Great video. I just purchased a used 2003 Club Car with the Kawasaki 290. Multiple issues so far. Gummed up carb, weak fuel pump also sucking air at the crankcase line. There was a couple blown fuses one being inline. Also an intermittent no spark condition im dealing with now. Unfortunately im on our seasonal campsite at the moment and will have to return and trailer it home to work on it. But heres what’s confusing me. It runs fine for a while, when we get to the base of a hill is very typical where it dies. Now if i hold the gas down and quickly shut the key off and turn it back on a few times it would start. Not always though. When it does start it may or may not die on its own. There’s definitely something intermittent there???? So i did purchase the rev limiter. (The block on the lower front of engine). Haven’t put it on yet. But im thinking about relocating it to the side of the engine compartment. Whats your thoughts on that?
K incoming 2 minutes
989 395 0913 Probably should have a phone conversation
Hey Nick. Fyi. RUclips unsubscribed me from your channel. I had to resubscribe. Anyhow. I think you were right about that oil level sensor. Cart runs beautifully until i hit that slight uphill. Gonna unplug that sucker tomorrow. Too dark now.
What ?! I'll fix that shit .sorry.
It's an igniter back there.
Somehow I missed your post I feel terrible. Did you find it? Again sorry. Keep in the loop if I can help.
Standard belt size???
Are you asking what the belt size is ?
1016203 China. Look on Amazon. 13.00 to 19.00
For the revolter
Rev limiter