Very good information. One thing I wanted to mention on the ash tray part is they make an aftermarket cup holder to convert the ashtray with a cup holder
Your right l worked at a ford dealership in the late 80,s and where the rear torsion bars bolted to the body was a regular problem when almost new , the mount would break off from the body
My top 5 things: 1 Does 2 It 3 Run 4 And 5 Drive? Hard to find good deals these days, so I can live with a couple things that it may possibly need. Use those things as bargaining tools when buying one. My 90 was a basket case and it's still not much better after almost 10yrs owning it. Should've left it sitting where I found it. Still love the old tank though.
HAHAHAH!! Exactly. And yes, it is hard to find good clean ones, the values are going up like crazy, and quick. So sitting or not, its a good investment. ;).
@@msk3905 Mine had a hard life before I picked it up. It's my first foxbody and I didnt know enough about them at the time to be buy one. I should've held out longer. Engine wise it has been great except for a distributor issue. Had a 4cyl trans that I had to swap out due to a cracked housing and the torque boxes were ripped out and cobbled back together. It had also been in an accident before and I just didnt realize it. Needless to say I am seasoned now. You live and learn.
I have a reef blue 5.0 5 speed lx that only has a 5 lug conversion and aluminum drive shaft lowered on ford preformence springs. Motor is stock minus the BBK headers.
#6 in the ghetto seat lean. LMR sells a new seat track for about $200 that fixes this. A bit pricey but you’ll never need to worry again. You will lose your power seat functions.
Not sure about your lean but mine (along few friends) was from the flimsy seat frame not tracks. I had to pull seat apart then weld in new bracing on the seat back piece all of ours had zero to do with tracks
My top things, Rust: Hatch, Trunk floor, Cowl drain, Door posts, Shock towers, Floors, Torque boxes if ripped will ripple the floors fyi….but you should know that. The toe board seam and seam where cowl/firewall meet will rot. The door post isn’t really rust as much as it’s bad repair/filler. They used lead, Usually they stuff full of bondo and it holds water when cracked. 2. Wrecks, Always check for wrecks, anything hit in the rear Avoid. Fronts not bad as long as they fixed it right. Doors can help. 3. Engine, Make sure the engine is healthy and all driveline is solid. 4. Rear end- A 7.5” rear end car is preferred as it means the car has never been beat on as hard as the 8.8. That’s my experience. 5. Interior. The interior is simple to replace on aero, but like all, extremely expensive to get Back in great shape, especially finding decent seats, gangster lean doesn’t bother me as it can be fixed by welding the seat frame. 6. Wiring. Any form of corrosion/Wiring hack is a major danger.
A couple years ago I picked up an all original 91 vert for 6k was the wifes car couldnt pass smog so they parked it in the garage baught a newer car and it sat for 12 years all this time all it needed was a cat. I know verts arnt as desirable but the clean all original grandmas car are still out there.
Sometimes the convertibles are in better shape than their hatch/both counterparts. They were less likely to have been modified or driven as hard over the years bc of the different type of buyer who purchased them. Many were purchased as cruisers at the time which means there may be more available in good condition than the other body styles.
Strut tower rust is a big issue. To properly have it done, you need to pull the motor. Other things are Pedals; will tell if the car has 60k or 160k. Lots of people roll the gauge. I usually stay away from carb swapped efi cars.(86-93) not saying it’s done poorly, but why would they switch?
@@adamrileycarchannel YAH MAN I BOUGHT MY FIRST MUSTANG GT BACK IN 95 AND IT HAD T TOPS AND I EVENTUALLY TRADED IT IN FOR A 97 COBRA AND I REALLY REGRETTED IT AND HONESTLY I DIDN'T THINK I WOULD FIND ANOTHER 87 MUSTANG GT WITH T TOPS BUT I DID BACK IN 2014 AND I WILL NEVER SELL THIS ONE AND I HAVE 7 MUSTANGS AND MY OTHER FOX IS MY VIBRANT RED 93 COBRA THAT I BOUGHT BACK IN 05 WITH 19 THOUSAND ORIGINAL MILES FOR A STEAL OF 17 GRAND AND TODAY IT HAS 22 THOUSAND ORIGINAL MILES AND THE ONLY MOD IS A FULL EXHAUST ON BOTH FOX BODY'S AND I ALSO HAVE A 04 COBRA AND MY 08 GT500 AND MY 07 SHELBY GT AND MY 07 427 EDITION CONVERTIBLE SUPER SNAKE AND I HAVE A GRABBER BLUE KENNY BELL COUPE SUPER SNAKE AND I HAVE MY ONE AND ONLY CHEVY MY 92 Z28 THAT I ORDERED NEW BACK IN 92 AND 19 THOUSAND ORIGINAL MILES LATER LOL OUT OF ALL THOSE CARS MY Z28 IS THE LAST ONE TO GO BUT WHEN I BUY A CAR I USALLY KEEP IT LOL DO YOU HAVE A FOX BODY.
I’m thinking of buying a fox body as a first car but im nervous about these things bc i want to work on cars but i don’t know much and don’t have the resources to weld ect.
If I could get some advice on if i should and how i could manage to own one that would really help bc i already have a few in mind but still got a year and half left for it to be possible to buy.
Wait,if I’m using a Ford Explorer 5.0 with the H.O. Plaque on it, and using a roller 302 Camshaft, the firing order is different than a stock Mustang Foxbody 5.0? That’s not going to work with a Mustang Camshaft. What years of Foxbodies had the H.O. Motor I guess is what I need to know?
Hi! Ford offered a HO 302 version for many years, but referencing to the EFI versions for the Fox Body, that was 1986/87 through 1993; as was typically on the GT models. The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Sorry, 7.5 rear-end is fully capable unless you're going to run 400+ rwhp. Swap outs mostly done to go 5 lug, which isn't strictly necessary either unless you want a 5 lug wheel. And it's not map sensored, it's calculated speed density. The map sensor just gives barometric input. Other inputs are also used. MAF controlled engines still use the same sensor without engine vacuum input. Both MAF and speed density efi systems have their plusses. Oh, and foxes are factory carbbed up to 86 or some 85s in calif. So there ya go.
And EFI started as throttle body on auto 5.0 cars in 84-5. In 86 they went to SEFI, And in 88 In Cali they swapped to MAF with the rest of the US following in 89.
86 is actually the first year of the multiport fuel injection not 87! Kinda discredits the video for me when in the first minute facts are wrong already
Hi, thanks for the input. Yes, 1986 was a mid year for the MFI, but I was referencing 1987 to be the first year for their EFI to be combined with the updated H.O. motor and body style change. I'll see if I can add a footnote in the bottom of the screen to reflect the separate 1986 EFI introduction. Thanks,
Very good information. One thing I wanted to mention on the ash tray part is they make an aftermarket cup holder to convert the ashtray with a cup holder
Yes! If you watch my interior restoration video, I added that feature. I love it!!
Your right l worked at a ford dealership in the late 80,s and where the rear torsion bars bolted to the body was a regular problem when almost new , the mount would break off from the body
Dang!! That's crazy. I've owned 5 Fox bodies, and 3 of them had cracked boxes. Best advice is to beef those up and add subframe connectors.
My top 5 things:
1 Does
2 It
3 Run
4 And
5 Drive?
Hard to find good deals these days, so I can live with a couple things that it may possibly need. Use those things as bargaining tools when buying one. My 90 was a basket case and it's still not much better after almost 10yrs owning it. Should've left it sitting where I found it. Still love the old tank though.
HAHAHAH!! Exactly. And yes, it is hard to find good clean ones, the values are going up like crazy, and quick. So sitting or not, its a good investment. ;).
Huh my 90 notchback ran fantastic for the 13 years that i own it and others that i knew had similar results?
@@msk3905 Mine had a hard life before I picked it up. It's my first foxbody and I didnt know enough about them at the time to be buy one. I should've held out longer. Engine wise it has been great except for a distributor issue. Had a 4cyl trans that I had to swap out due to a cracked housing and the torque boxes were ripped out and cobbled back together. It had also been in an accident before and I just didnt realize it. Needless to say I am seasoned now. You live and learn.
I have a reef blue 5.0 5 speed lx that only has a 5 lug conversion and aluminum drive shaft lowered on ford preformence springs. Motor is stock minus the BBK headers.
Sounds great! Love that color. Thanks for sharing
#6 in the ghetto seat lean. LMR sells a new seat track for about $200 that fixes this. A bit pricey but you’ll never need to worry again. You will lose your power seat functions.
Thanks for the Ghetto Seat tip! :D
Not sure about your lean but mine (along few friends) was from the flimsy seat frame not tracks. I had to pull seat apart then weld in new bracing on the seat back piece all of ours had zero to do with tracks
It’s called gangsta lean
@@robfeldschun6146 🤣
They are already lost lol
My top things, Rust: Hatch, Trunk floor, Cowl drain, Door posts, Shock towers, Floors, Torque boxes if ripped will ripple the floors fyi….but you should know that. The toe board seam and seam where cowl/firewall meet will rot. The door post isn’t really rust as much as it’s bad repair/filler. They used lead, Usually they stuff full of bondo and it holds water when cracked.
2. Wrecks, Always check for wrecks, anything hit in the rear Avoid. Fronts not bad as long as they fixed it right. Doors can help.
3. Engine, Make sure the engine is healthy and all driveline is solid.
4. Rear end- A 7.5” rear end car is preferred as it means the car has never been beat on as hard as the 8.8. That’s my experience.
5. Interior. The interior is simple to replace on aero, but like all, extremely expensive to get Back in great shape, especially finding decent seats, gangster lean doesn’t bother me as it can be fixed by welding the seat frame.
6. Wiring. Any form of corrosion/Wiring hack is a major danger.
Thank you for the suggestions!!!
This video was edited beautifully and explained everything perfectly
@@Thatonefoxbod Thank you!!
THANKS ADAM--NO MATTER MY OTHER CATS , I AM A FORD NOTT-MUSTANG FANBOY PAR EXCELLENCE--LOVE OF MY LIFE. VERY NICE INFORMATION ON THE FOX BODY.
Thank you!
A couple years ago I picked up an all original 91 vert for 6k was the wifes car couldnt pass smog so they parked it in the garage baught a newer car and it sat for 12 years all this time all it needed was a cat. I know verts arnt as desirable but the clean all original grandmas car are still out there.
Yes they are still out there! And I have always liked the convertibles. Thanks for sharing!
Sometimes the convertibles are in better shape than their hatch/both counterparts. They were less likely to have been modified or driven as hard over the years bc of the different type of buyer who purchased them. Many were purchased as cruisers at the time which means there may be more available in good condition than the other body styles.
Strut tower rust is a big issue. To properly have it done, you need to pull the motor. Other things are Pedals; will tell if the car has 60k or 160k. Lots of people roll the gauge. I usually stay away from carb swapped efi cars.(86-93) not saying it’s done poorly, but why would they switch?
Great tips!! Thanks for those!
Great vid with some sound advice 👌 thx Adam 👍
Thank you!!
@@adamrileycarchannelI REALLY WANT TOO KICK MYSELF FOR YEARS LOL GIVING AWAY A PERFECT SET OF QUATER WINDOWS
@@anthonylaudano9435 they are the worth of gold now days. Hahah
@@adamrileycarchannel I DO HAVE A REAL NICE SET ON MY 22 THOUSAND ORIGINAL 93 COBRA LOL
@@adamrileycarchannel YAH MAN I BOUGHT MY FIRST MUSTANG GT BACK IN 95 AND IT HAD T TOPS AND I EVENTUALLY TRADED IT IN FOR A 97 COBRA AND I REALLY REGRETTED IT AND HONESTLY I DIDN'T THINK I WOULD FIND ANOTHER 87 MUSTANG GT WITH T TOPS BUT I DID BACK IN 2014 AND I WILL NEVER SELL THIS ONE AND I HAVE 7 MUSTANGS AND MY OTHER FOX IS MY VIBRANT RED 93 COBRA THAT I BOUGHT BACK IN 05 WITH 19 THOUSAND ORIGINAL MILES FOR A STEAL OF 17 GRAND AND TODAY IT HAS 22 THOUSAND ORIGINAL MILES AND THE ONLY MOD IS A FULL EXHAUST ON BOTH FOX BODY'S AND I ALSO HAVE A 04 COBRA AND MY 08 GT500 AND MY 07 SHELBY GT AND MY 07 427 EDITION CONVERTIBLE SUPER SNAKE AND I HAVE A GRABBER BLUE KENNY BELL COUPE SUPER SNAKE AND I HAVE MY ONE AND ONLY CHEVY MY 92 Z28 THAT I ORDERED NEW BACK IN 92 AND 19 THOUSAND ORIGINAL MILES LATER LOL OUT OF ALL THOSE CARS MY Z28 IS THE LAST ONE TO GO BUT WHEN I BUY A CAR I USALLY KEEP IT
LOL DO YOU HAVE A FOX BODY.
I’m thinking of buying a fox body as a first car but im nervous about these things bc i want to work on cars but i don’t know much and don’t have the resources to weld ect.
If I could get some advice on if i should and how i could manage to own one that would really help bc i already have a few in mind but still got a year and half left for it to be possible to buy.
Wait,if I’m using a Ford Explorer 5.0 with the H.O. Plaque on it, and using a roller 302 Camshaft, the firing order is different than a stock Mustang Foxbody 5.0? That’s not going to work with a Mustang Camshaft. What years of Foxbodies had the H.O. Motor I guess is what I need to know?
Hi! Ford offered a HO 302 version for many years, but referencing to the EFI versions for the Fox Body, that was 1986/87 through 1993; as was typically on the GT models. The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
86 was the year for SEFI…and it’s not EECIV. That was the computer revision… Just since you’re portraying fact.
Running boards?
HA! Wondering who was going to catch that. I meant to say side skirts. Been working on the Model A lately. LOL. But thanks for watching!
@@adamrileycarchannel lol gotcha I figured that's what you ment still had to give you s**t
Sorry, 7.5 rear-end is fully capable unless you're going to run 400+ rwhp. Swap outs mostly done to go 5 lug, which isn't strictly necessary either unless you want a 5 lug wheel. And it's not map sensored, it's calculated speed density. The map sensor just gives barometric input. Other inputs are also used. MAF controlled engines still use the same sensor without engine vacuum input. Both MAF and speed density efi systems have their plusses. Oh, and foxes are factory carbbed up to 86 or some 85s in calif. So there ya go.
The people that swap to a 8.8 for 5 lug are either ignorant or stupid, As the axels are compatible…
And EFI started as throttle body on auto 5.0 cars in 84-5. In 86 they went to SEFI, And in 88 In Cali they swapped to MAF with the rest of the US following in 89.
86 is actually the first year of the multiport fuel injection not 87! Kinda discredits the video for me when in the first minute facts are wrong already
Hi, thanks for the input. Yes, 1986 was a mid year for the MFI, but I was referencing 1987 to be the first year for their EFI to be combined with the updated H.O. motor and body style change. I'll see if I can add a footnote in the bottom of the screen to reflect the separate 1986 EFI introduction. Thanks,
@adamrileycarchannel not a mid year thing all 86s with v8s came with mfi. Cfi was a one year thing for 85 only.
Rust. Everything else is easy.
Yes! And it getting more difficult to find clean, rust free Fox’s these days.