Is Upgrading Your Motorcycle's Brakes Worth It?
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- Опубликовано: 11 июн 2024
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If your motorcycle's brakes feel bad or you just want to get more performance out of them, what gives you the best bang for your buck?
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00:00 - Intro
01:15 - I GOT A GARAGE!
01:59 - Testing Procedure
02:53 - Stock Test
04:17 - Bleeding The Brakes
07:20 - Swapping Pads
09:22 - New Master Cylinder
12:40 - Which Was The Winner?
14:44 - Was This Worth It? 
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Spite has grown up, I'm so proud
Yes he is a big boy now!
Congratulations on the new house, Spite! I’m so glad your hard work has paid off. Thank you for all the great stuff you put out there for us, and all done with humor and humility. All the best!
Based on personal experience; both for dirt bikes and street machines, the biggest difference A -> B I've witnessed is changing over stock brake lines to stainless braided ones (if your bike comes stock with reinforced rubber/teflon lines from the factory).
If the bike already comes with stainless lines, the next best thing is a Brembo RCS-19 master cylinder. I love them to death, and have so far installed 4 of them, including my kx250f.
That seems like a big jump in fluid being pushed around, from an 11mm piston to 19. Is that with a stock caliper? How much lever movement do you get from 0 braking to a stoppie?
@@burgersquid It's less about the amount of lever travel and far more about lever feel. Braided lines definitely make a stock master cylinder (mc) far better than it was designed to be, but then the mc becomes the ultimate weak point of the brake system. The main reason why I enjoy the RCS-19 so much is for the same reason why I prefer cable-style clutches over hydraulic ones. It's not just what I feel from the lever that's important, but the fidelity and high definition of what I'm feeling in the lever as I'm pulling it. The RCS-19 allows me to feel the minute pressure pulsations that come from the tire being forced up and down by the road and my suspension, and thus the lever pulsates slightly in the grasp of my fingers; slightly outward under compression, slightly inward on rebound.
@@jacquescrusan9500 No they do not. It has been proven many times that braided lines do not expand less than rubber lines. If you have new lines braded and not they will feel the same and they wear out at the same rate. Brakes lines unless hardline need to be replaced more often than people think they do.
Braided Stainless Brake lines are a game changer for the KLR.
SPITE YOURE THE MAN! had a blast meeting you at motovation
Stoked for you, the channel, and your new home Spite! Glad to be here for the journey!
This is amazing stuff man, I said it when I met you at the campout and I’ll say it again. Everything that has happened in the last year has been for a reason and it’s the best stuff seeing you get the things you deserve. Congrats!
In my experience, cleaning the pistons with soap water and a tooth brush and then grease them with red rubber grease helps a lot and is a very cheap fix. I do it at least once a year, together with replacing the brake fluid.
I swapped out my brake fluid after watching you basic maintenance video. So glad I did it, the old fluid was dark yellow/brown. Didnt feel much difference on the road, but at least I know its serviced!
Dark yellow/brown means there is a lot of water in it. You would notice if the brakes got hot. The water inside would start to boil. Gas compresses much more than fluid. That is the main difference between DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluid.
Genuinely surprised you didnt also test stock vs stainless braided lines
Considering we've only got one caliper and a direct connection, it's not a massive upgrade IMO. Maybe I'll make a part 2
@@spitescorner Off topic, but an idea for a episode is "how much does body weight affect performance? " I have yet to see a single video on that topic.
@@spartanx169x body weight affects performance as much as bike weight does; it's obvious. I dunno how you make this video without it just being shitty though, there's not much to cover and you're not going to teach anyone anything useful.
@@spitescorner This was the only brake mod I did to my DR. Night and day difference.
Congrats on the house. Hope this is just the beginning for greater things to come. You deserve it.
Congratulations! Cant wait til see this garage grow!
Congrats on getting the house and garage! Happy for you that you got this! Much deserved!
Man am I so glad you are doing well! Loving the content man, look forward to every video! Keep safe! Keep crushing it!
Congrats on the new house Spite!! Such a big moment.
Congratulations on the new house man!!!!! Happy to see it worked out for you!!! It wasn't fair and you're showing everyday what made the difference, and the spirit that we were looking for =D
I’m happy for you Spite. Enjoy the new home 🏡
Congrats on the new house. It's an amazing accomplishment. Repairs and maintenance in the garage will be way better than in the parking garage.
VERY informative for those of us not mechanically inclined.
My personal experience: Keep EVERY moving part in your brake lever mechanism as clean and lubed as possible.
Periodically bleed your brake fluid as it gets dark and by nature it absorbs moisture.
It helps a lot when it comes to squeeze the max braking power w/o locking your wheel(s) and prevent scraping both your bike and ego.
My front brakes are not the greatest when it comes to feel and I almost lost the front end braking hard when someone decided to make a left in front of me even tho they had a red light and I had the green.
Lever had been feeling stiff and dragging.
Took it all apart, cleaned, inspected for wear and galling on the surfaces that mate (M/C plunger and lever's cam, lever's bushing, lever's pivot bolt), greased it all, assembled it and the better lever feel came back.
I hope my rant and long post helps someone.
Stay aware and ride like you're invisible ! 😊👍
Congrats on signing on the house, Spite!
Best to you and yours!
Congratulations on the new home mate! Awesome 👏🏼
Congratulations on the house man! So fuckin excited for what’s to come!
Congratulations, you deserve everything you have! Effort + good content presented professionally equals your wishes
Congrats on the new place dude! 🎉
Interesting vid. Pads & braided lines is a pretty cost effective option for good results. Unless I was tracking it or the standard equipment was really awful, I personally wouldn't shell out for a new master cylinder but it's probably worth it if you can afford it.
Congrats on the new house, Spite! What a great news 💪💪💪💪
I remember that I didnt care about how the brake felt as long it stopped the bike in a timely fashion.
Until I drove a bike with Brembos.
You cannot go back.
I want to also point out that people will pay $200 for some cnc adjustable lever on the factory master, but could get a full Brembo RCS for $300.
congrats on the house MAN!!!! also saves you money instead of going to rooftop parking garage! Perfect simple size man keep up the great work as i am here with you for the ride homie!!
I'm glad I'm here to witness your journey spite! Congratulations on the house
Really enjoyed this one man! More science experiment / myth-busting videos please! And congrats on the house.
Great content, Spite. As a fellow KLR owner (2015) I love anything that has to do with your KLR 😎
Hell yeah congratulations man
Congrats on the house. Happy for you. I’ve enjoyed your content since you went solo.
Congratulations Spite. Well deserved
Stainless steel lines will give an extreme change in lever feel. One of the first cheapest bang for the buck mods done on every motorcycle.
Holy shit. Congrats on the purchase! Look forward to much more casa de spite content to come!
Huge congratulations 🎊
Excellent video!!
Braided lines and good pads improved my GSXS 1000 brakes 100%, felt wooden when stock , now has great feel & bite and is a pleasure under very hard braking , still with factory master cylinder.
Also huge congrats on the house!!!!!
Congratulations on the home man!
Congratulations on the house 👍
Great eyeopener for a newbie looking for a next project. Was wondering whether to change the pads myself and the vid has certainly given me the confidence to do so.
(Maybe you could do a series of newbie projects/upgrades?)
Well done on the new house - looking forward to seeing the upgrades to the garage (probably more than your partner is).
Congratulations on the new house 🎉
Hey Spite, thanks for the video. I can tell you that as a long term KLR owner the front brakes are one area that can really benefit from what you have done with your bike. I’m a little disappointed in myself now because I have never considered upgrading the front brake master cylinder.
I think you might have convinced me to do that mod. Thanks again and congratulations on your new home and garage. Keep up the great work, obviously everyone is loving what you are doing. 🇦🇺
My lever started to feel really spongy and I thought the brake fluid went bad but it was caused by stuck pistons. After I cleaned and freed them I had to get used to how stiff the lever used to be.
Fantastic content Spite,this has the potential to ba a good series."Upgrade the budget bike" (UTBB 😅) very good infotainment and it learns people to do great things with their own bike!
Dramatic improvement on My 2022 KLR with steel braided lines. Good point on ABS. Mine is a non-abs model.
Very happy for you Spite. You have over come last year challenge . Sometime god has bigger and better plan for you . Wish you the best from all of us rider
Congratulations to new Garage and HOME!
Go for a ride, play some MÖTLEY CRÜE and head back to
HOME SWEET HOME!
The SPITE'S CORNER INDEED!
Im getting my first bike this month and im actually getting a KLR, so thanks for the tips!
Check your tires thoroughly after a spin through new construction 😁. Woohoo congrats on the home!!!🥳🥳
On my track motorcycle, it came with 2012 budget ABS. I replaced the lines with non-ABS stainless lines directly to the calipers, new pads and, and fluid. I also replaced the lever because they came with the rear-set pegs… They feel great and work well on track, no rear brake light installed. My only issue is a persistent ABS light on, but I also removed the pump and extra lines…
My bikes don't have ABS, but I've done all these mods, and braided lines beat every other for performance (at least on non ABS bikes, can't comment on ABS) eliminated the severe brake fade I got on longer spirited rides when nothing else did.
Spite is quickly one of the top 3 moto reviewers for me.
May I suggest pushing the calipers out for a clean before the new pads go in ?😊
Depends on the age of your bike. I done a full upgrade on my Concours14. Braided line on all brakes and clutch. Had master cylinder rebuild kits for front brakes and clutch. Both kits combined cost less than new master. Then new pads front and rear. Made it a completely new bike. 08 model with 55000+ miles.
Congratulations on your home
Thanks
Goals: have a garage and a home, together. You’re living my dream Spite.
Congrats on the house purchase!
Congrats on the new corner… er garage!!!
My preference is EBC HH pads, brided lines, and now I would use DOT 5.1(after using in my car seems fine) doesn't paint strip like DOT 4. Master cylinder I would only upgrade if badly worn. But more than likely just get a OEM seal kit.
On the KLR the best you can do for the front is the 320mm rotor kit.
Use kit Stockton 1124076 brake bleeder kit(under $20), it has a inline check valve so you don't have to constantly open and close the valve.(I use it on my cars also and recommend it to everyone)
Use silicon to lube up the caliper slide to prevent the slides from sticking and prematurely wearing the outside pad out.
I favor speed bleeders on every slave cylinder.
Dude, fuck, congrats on the new house!!
For Harley's (non abs) Twin Cams for example, new Lyndall pads make a night and day difference, calipers are perfectly fine but I do upgrade to Lyndall rotors as well but stock rotors as good too.
I put steel braided brake lines on my dr650 and the difference is night and day. Highly recommended upgrade if your brake lines are just rubber.
The first thing I did after getting an 87 Kawasaki 454 LTD was change the front brake master cylinder and brake pads. When I moved it 100 feet the brakes felt like I was gripping an over ripe tomato. Now there are brakes.
As someone who upgraded the brakes on her Fat Boy 114... Yes. Do it. There is no reason not too. Do it.
Congratulations on being a home owner. Having a garage/studio will be awesome for you.
Short answer. Yes. Always. I used to ride litre sportsbikes.... and I'd still look for braking improvements.... always a good move. And makes you faster..... think on that a bit friends. Good vid Spite. Still lovin yer work fella.
Watching you bleed the new master cylinder by gently tapping the lever makes me wanna fantasize you watching my video on how to do that 🥲
Also, what made my bikes brakes feel nicer was swapping the line for a steel braided one 👀👀
Fun video. I wish you had done a braking distance comparison just to see if any of the upgrades help with that, beyond just the better feel.
Was thinking the same thing, without a braking distance comparison, we really don't know what the improvement really is. What he "feels" means nothing to me as I may or may not be able to "feel" any difference.
Idk if it would've been worth it. A skid is a skid and if you have better brake feel, you're less likely to skid right? Basically I feel like one would definitely follow the other but it's still rider dependent.
Congrats on the house…scotchbrite pad for the rotors…might try a braided line if the bike doesn’t have one.
I thought my brakes were fine until I bought a dirt cheap 225cc bike as a runabout & for weekend shenanigans & felt the difference. No master cylinder, but I've got brake fluid, pads & a pair of disks to throw on. Hopefully I'll see an improvement.
In many cases it can be useful to have the brake caliper refurbished. After some years, the brake pistons get 'crusty'
Congratulations on the never ending work and responsibility of home ownership.
Switchting out the break lines for braided steel ones would also be be a relatively low cost option.
Congrats on the house, may the mortgage allways be in your favor!
Spike how come you didn't ruff up the break pads with sand paper? Take off the glazed helps old and new brakes.
Hey spite. Love your content
From my experience filming in my own garage. Turn your self around or shut the garage door so the sun light is in front of you so you are less of a silhouette
I'm happy for you Spite. Now you have less to worry about them thief's coming to steel your bikes. Cheers from Cali.
It would be interesting to hear if the stop light switch adds a perceptible SLOP to the brake lever "feel".
If you want better feel install radial brake pump and monoblock calliper. I did that in many bikes.
Congratulations on the house. Best thing i ever did was buy a house and its cheaper than renting and get to remodle and improve to my liking. I do more custom work to my house than my vehicles
Congrats to you (and your bank lol) on home ownership!
Get some fans in there pronto!
When is the caliper swap? I believe a SV650 4 pot caliper fits on this. And you can always go big EBC disc as well.
Still waiting for you to check out a snow track dirt bike.!
Spite, do you have the part numbers for the thread adapter you mentioned for the brake switch?
don't need brakes, if i need to stop just stand up on the pegs, get up on top of the bike and ride it like a skateboard and jump off as i'm about to crash
There is a adapter to use a 6 piston for my old intruder, any downsides to having a bigger sportbike style front brake on an old cruiser?
Stiffer brake lines, kevlar, steel or carbon braided lines affects ABS to. Most systems gets better, regulates more often and precise when the hoses/lines don't flex.,
I've owned 12 different motorcycles(Yamahas. Kawasaki's and 1 Harley), ridden 18 different ones. I have never felt any "mushyness" in any of them. I don't even know what it would feel like.
fluids are, in any somewhat normal use, not compressible.
This means that the fluid in your brake system is entirely irrelevant to how it feels or how quickly it decelerates. this only changes if the boiling point of the fluid is so low that it starts to boil under normal use.
and the only thing putting in new brake fluid achieves is raising the boiling point over whatever the old, waterlogged stuff had.
Old fluid will result in a soft and numb lever. The type of fluid, beyond dot rating doesn't matter, but old fluid won't feel good.
@@spitescorner water has a compressioon modulus of 2.08 GPa, at atmospheric pressure and 20°C, while glycerine (close enough aproximation for DOT3) is at 4.35GPa. The change between them is entirely linear based on weight percentage.
A braking system reaches something around 1500 psi (according to Mark William enterpises as they recommend 1200 psi or more for an emergency stop). that's 103 Bar or 0.0103GPa.
so brand new DOT3 braking fluid compresses by a whopping 0.237% under maximum braking.
meanwhile dot3 that contains 10% water, by weight, compresses by 0.251% under the same 1500 psi.
you ain't feeling that 0.013% difference in compression.
especially if the bike just has rubber lines cause those expand a lot more than the fluid compresses.
@@anonym3017not until it becomes steam and your sol.
@@philipparana9225 as per the first comment
"this only changes if the boiling point of the fluid is so low that it starts to boil under normal use."
Spike, You must have very strong hands if a larger piston master cylinder made your KLR feel like the brakes were stronger! Hydraulic theory would back up the fact that more force must be applied to the MC lever to have the same pressure on the pads. Yamaha Viragos were noted for having spongy brakes right from the factory. They were designed that way because the demographic rider for these bikes were older and sometimes newer riders and Yamaha didn't want people locking up the front brakes. No fear of that as I am fairly strong in my hands, and could not get much stopping power from them on a 97 1100 dual disc Virago that is like new. From first contact, to I can't pull it any closer to the handlebar, the MC lever moved about a half inch and if done in the garage, one could see the rubber brake lines expanding. Removing the calipers and cleaning and checking then thoroughly and new fluid did not help. Since I was looking for a super bike flat style bar, I knew I would need a new MC, so the research started and I found this site, "Front master cylinder ratio chart". Google it and check it out! I found an inexpensive Honda four wheeler that had a piston size that I felt would work for me. I went from a stock master cylinder piston size of 15mm to one with a little over 13mm. I installed it along with SS braided steel lines and bled them. Well, I now have a MC lever that moves about an inch and gives me awesome braking with just two fingers. I went with more sensitivity because I have 25 years of riding experience and know not to grab the front brake. But boy oh boy do I have strong front brakes now. I practice emergency braking every time I go riding and having strong brakes and being able to use them without fear feels so great. Try looking up your stock MC piston size for the KLR and find a MC that has a couple of mm smaller. Install that and see how you like it. Oh, and do put on those SS lines.
Congrats on the house Spite! Clearly getting away from He Who Shall Not Be Named was a good thing lol
So I've got a 650 Honda, been thinking about stainless brake lines and ceramic pads. If by some fluke Spite see's this, would you say it's worth while?
Id argue that the benefit of stainless lines is greater on abs bikes, rather than lesser, because brake lines are significantly longer. The ABS unit is just a clear path through for brake fluid when not active.
The reason SS lines improve feel is that the stock lines tend to expand a little bit. Not much, but they do. Longer lines due to ABS allow that expansion to encompass a larger volume of fluid, which results in more numbing of the brake feel.
Yup, a lot of upper end manufacters use a combo of hard lines and ss to reduce expansion. Also upgrading the master and not going w a radial is a sin.
@@philipparana9225 I mean, for a KLR.its excusable, and is definitely going to be a big improvement regardless, but yeah. If someone was looking to do this on a sportier machine, bleed->HH pads->SS lines->radial MC
Just installing any old stainless steel brake line may not make any difference, a big factor is the quality of it. The size and /or number of the pistons in the calipers have the biggest impact on the way the brakes feel, larger or more pistons require less pressure therefore less expansion in the brake lines.
The weak link on the first gen. Hayabusa are the front brakes. I tried several brands of pads and wasn't happy until I used Galfer ceramic HH pads. I also completely bled the brakes with Bel-Ray brake fluid. The Galfer pads were costly, but at least I don't feel like I'm attempting suicide when I ride the 'busa 2007 model now.
I would say that another upgrade is with brake rotors. Rotors take an absolute beating: they're exposed to the weather, dirt, and road grime, which gets baked on and baked in with the heat generated when braking. As a result, rotors may start getting scored, developing grooves, or warping; none of that is good.
Finding a place to resurface rotors can be a bit difficult, but it can be a lot less expensive than shelling out for new rotors.
Also with rotors you should measure them with a pair of calipers (measuring tool not brake calipers) and see if the thickness is still in spec. ThisOldTony has a video where he chases soft brakes on a trials bike. After throwing parts at it and bleeding the brakes multiple times, he found that even though his rotors looked good and were not warped they were thinner than spec thus the pads couldn't clamp it fully.