You had an almost perfect video, you do not use antiseize on caliper slider bolts, you use high temperature grease spcifically designed for brakes. Secondly you dont use red locktight on caliper bolts. You may break those bolts when every you try to remove them. Good narration, excellent knowledge io brake parts.
i'm late to the party but thank you so much for the video, its the only good video around to use as an aid. just scares me to hell that you only need 2 foot pounds of force or the nut at the end, anywhoo, one side done and starting the other side as we speak. Thank you.
I was trying to find info on doing the 2004 Heritage. Everything says it's the same as the 03 but that's nothing like my brakes. wish it was though, nice video.
I use the Ford silicon grease for the slider pins, as for the low pad warning indicator everybody else says that pad goes behind the rotor with the pin at the bottom, not in the front. ??
I repleace both rear brakes and the only one that is working is the driver side. And i can't get them both work at the same time.. can someone help me out
Was this a 2WD vehicle? If so, what changes if you are working on a 4WD F150. Mine is a 1999 but I believe it is the same through 2003? Thanks for the great video!
The right side pops when turning and its bumpy.... Sigh, I'll probably have to replace the bearings again now. I'll just tear off the dust shields or grind a circle in them to match that rotor. Ha
I bought those same rotors, put in new bearings, and they're rubbing on my dust shields so the bearings won't fully seat until they wear through the shields.. Such a pain, having to readjust them constantly. I wish RockAuto had a pic of the backside of these.... They're nice rotors, but that shield rubs on the dust shield...
Thanks, today is July/ 15/ 2023, watch this video & swap out my pads/rotors on my 2002 ford ranger Egde. Yes, it is still going.
Thank you so much! This is one of the best how-to videos on RUclips. You guys did a great job!
Thanks Joe, Awesome job of explaining how to do this.
Thank you so much for the great video and excellent detailed instructions!
This helped so much
I was intimidated to do this myself, but it went great thanks
Thank you. Very good and clean instruction video.
Great video,Joe,exactly how to do it,Locktite and anti-sieze are a plus,as they did not do that step at the factory.
Beautiful, This makes me feel like I could do this myself. I just don't have the tools to do it. Thanks for the video!
That was really excellent. Nothing to chance. Thank you.
keep up the good work thanks
Thanks great video.
You had an almost perfect video, you do not use antiseize on caliper slider bolts, you use high temperature grease spcifically designed for brakes. Secondly you dont use red locktight on caliper bolts. You may break those bolts when every you try to remove them. Good narration, excellent knowledge io brake parts.
Acctually the proper lube would be silicone paste because it's comparable with runner unlike grease
juanjohnism moly
Get over yourself. I've never used locktite on a caliper bolt and have NEVER broke one.
This video helped me save $500 good job.
Excellent how to video , anyone can do this at home in the driveway .save yourself the money.
i'm late to the party but thank you so much for the video, its the only good video around to use as an aid. just scares me to hell that you only need 2 foot pounds of force or the nut at the end, anywhoo, one side done and starting the other side as we speak.
Thank you.
great tool description. Tks. Shane-o
I was trying to find info on doing the 2004 Heritage. Everything says it's the same as the 03 but that's nothing like my brakes. wish it was though, nice video.
Thanks.
I use the Ford silicon grease for the slider pins, as for the low pad warning indicator everybody else says that pad goes behind the rotor with the pin at the bottom, not in the front. ??
I like how you say ''bolts''
how can you tell if you got these style bearings or the wheel bearing style that the rotor slides on without taking the wheel off?!!!
I need to invest in one of those bearing packers cause im always worried about if I got enough into all the nooks of the bearings
is this much different for a 2004 ?
@Jennifer Glass no, it would be the same from trucks year '97 to 2004
I repleace both rear brakes and the only one that is working is the driver side. And i can't get them both work at the same time.. can someone help me out
After market Rotors come with sealed bearings no?
No not all do.its an option
Did all that I feel grinding in the rotor and brake goes all the way dowon
100-130ft lbs will move the truck some... 10ftlbs is about finger tight... Its ok to guess on most suspension parts.
Was this a 2WD vehicle? If so, what changes if you are working on a 4WD F150. Mine is a 1999 but I believe it is the same through 2003? Thanks for the great video!
There are no bearings to replace on the 4x4. The rotor just slides over the studs. I have a 2000 f150 4x4 and I just replaced the rotors and calipers.
@@harryt622 i have a 2003 fx4. i don't have bearings?
what can wrong with my 94 f150, 2wd, my front right brakes scrape when driving into 2nd gear, sounds forced and real loud,
Wrong placement of pads maybe? Pad with ears goes on the inside.
The right side pops when turning and its bumpy.... Sigh, I'll probably have to replace the bearings again now. I'll just tear off the dust shields or grind a circle in them to match that rotor. Ha
Its probably a collapsed hose(rubber hoses collapse internally) or a brake cylinder... Neither are hard or expensive to replace.
I bought those same rotors, put in new bearings, and they're rubbing on my dust shields so the bearings won't fully seat until they wear through the shields.. Such a pain, having to readjust them constantly. I wish RockAuto had a pic of the backside of these.... They're nice rotors, but that shield rubs on the dust shield...
only 20 in poun torque ??????
The mechanic just uses an impact wrench and over tightens everything.... They don't follow torque specs. So you'll be ok dude
sounds like some sponsor money coming in , holy shit absolute overkill times ten ! im out
This guy would be fired in a shop for this poor job...They is not a professional mechanics...